+ 1 for the photo with all 4 windows down. Rebuilt mine with stock type parts including springs. Being a salt belt car, I did not reuse any fasteners. Clarks had a bolt kit, was worth it for me.
Your mods are like having your cake and eating it too :) I always wondered about that bracket and I always shied away from the control rods because of the problems I heard about them. Oh, and by the way I love Corvairs!
good video very helpful .. when you talk about a noise .. I have aloud moaning noise .. like a car with no power steering fluid...I have a 65' corvair thanks
Funny you should say that - I just posted another Corvair video and the moaning sound I was hearing at the track was a side bearing failing in the differential. Could be a number of things in your case, but if it's the diff, I'll have a rebuild video here eventually. :) ua-cam.com/video/C5EAgenbPKY/v-deo.html
Hah, thanks. I'm trying to improve the quality as I go. The Corvair stuff I try to be more detailed because there isn't much good Corvair content out there. Of course it helps immensely that I just keep getting better looking every year!
seems like properly sized spacers washers and or bushings, might’ve been a worthy consideration. the head of the bolt with the flat side and cam washer tells the tale. it is at best a grade 5. altho with what appeared to be a flat smooth head, and those threads nearly gone, likely grade 3 wld be more like it. maybe give a thot to a fab / machine shop for some made in the USA critical application hardware and properly hardened bolts. corvairs long and always have been worthy of the good stuff.
PS you’re makin my brain hurt, brother. im not certain how many years i am, after the fact. however, a 1/2” bolt in a 5/8” bore, was fairly askin for trouble. was it not? either sleeve the bore. or use a 5/8” bolt. grade 8 bolts’re marked grade 8. grade 5 bolts’re marked grade 5. always.
Does anyone make a yoke and bearing assembly that is made into a disc brake conversion? Drilling new locating holes in the old bracket makes a lot more stress around the old holes doesn't it?
I have front disc brakes but not rear, but to my knowledge, the rear disc conversion kits don't change out the hub. You can find them at Clark's and at LeVair Performance, probably among others. So far no issues in my redrilled bracket, and I haven't heard of any from others that have done the same!
The way to install the bracket is to loosely install all bolts with no arms attached. Then tighten down the bolts in an X style and then install the control rods. Apparently, you haven't read the instructions that came with the bracket nor have you read the instructions Clarks' has on their website.
I mean, "he didn't read the instructions" is something that has an excellent chance of appearing on my tombstone. But that method has never worked well for me, especially with nylon bushings in the control arms (which I used to have) that make it very difficult to 'twist' the arms into the correct angle.
Thank you for posting your wk. on the Corvair. I own a 1964 here in M.B. CA. While watching your vid. I thought something was wrong with it as it went dark with the back ground music in two spots. Would you recommend the same up grade for mine? I hope you have time to pist more work to your Corvair😁
Thanks for letting me know, Richard. I'll be more careful in editing in the future! The 1964 model has a totally different rear suspension, with a transverse spring that serves to help locate the swing axle. There's no lower control arm/strut rod in your case.
I hope everything is still going well with you and your car. I hate to say it but you have put out some misinformation on the way you installed your lower control arms. The metal sleeve inside the poly bushing should be tight against the inside of the control arm mounts. The poly bushing pivots on the metal sleeve, thats why you have a grease zerk on each end. So the bolts should be tight enough to pinch the sleeve so it doesn't rotate. If you have a small gap between the mount and poly bushing this is normal. And as one of the other replies mentioned if you had the rod ends loose you wouldn't have had to drop the rear of the engine. Probably could have mounted the bracket first then the control arm last. Other than that good video. We all can learn from each other as I know others have from your video. God Bless you and your family. Happy New Year.
@@FlawlessPlanGarage I'd watch it. When I was kid my dad bought thirteen different Corvairs. He wanted to put a V8 in one. He finally found one he thought worthy then decided to just drive it. It was a 66 Corsa 4sp. By the time I got to drive it the front end had been wrecked and the clutch was worn out. That was forty years ago. I'd still drive one today if I had one.
Thanks for the video - good explanation on why your previous setup with the 'vette arms wasn't great. Two comments - why not just use two stock inner mounting brackets rather than re-drill the Crown one? (also easier to install one side at a time). And as for the install - I would have thought if you had loosened the jam nuts on the bars, they would be able to twist allowing an easier alignment with the inner bracket?
I just don't have a set of the stock mounting brackets on hand, and the OTTO piece is nice and strong from whatever that's worth! Loosening the jamb nuts would have no effect - the twisting force is on a different plane.
It's an old "OTTO" performance parts bracket. I got it used many years ago, and I don't think there is a source for them new any longer. I don't know of a model number either. It relocates the rear pivot point to make the LCA move parallel to the rear axle, which as people later learned, actually isn't a handling improvement. The camber gain under compression with the stock brackets/location is a good thing. But I already had the OTTO bracket and it's stronger than the stock ones, so I kept it with the modifications shown in the video.
16x7 "Superlite" brand wheels made in Australia. I don't think they are available any longer, but there are a number of these "minilite" style wheels available in different forms - I love them!
ok, I know its been a long time since I worked on my 65 140 Corsa, but why didn't you install the center mount that connects to the transaxle FIRST!!! and it looks like that mount doesn't line up with the transaxle, and the holes are too big for the bolts!!! you have too many wrongs before you should even start! mike
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Four-door late model corvairs are beautiful in their own right. Glad to see it a restoration and TLC going into one.
4 door corvair is now hard to see nowadays and yours is beautiful. Love your corvair.
Thanks!
Scott’s Hot Rods makes an excellent complete rear end replacement unit.
Leave the first three bolts loose so you can get the fourth one lined up.
Beautiful Corvair, I always liked the looks of the later model sedans. I had a friend who had a 65 with AC, very nice car.
Thanks, I like all of the late model cars, but the sedan especially had great proportions, I think.
I like the grease zirc fittings on the upgraded control arms , I also like them on the sway arm bushings
+ 1 for the photo with all 4 windows down. Rebuilt mine with stock type parts including springs. Being a salt belt car, I did not reuse any fasteners. Clarks had a bolt kit, was worth it for me.
Your mods are like having your cake and eating it too :) I always wondered about that bracket and I always shied away from the control rods because of the problems I heard about them. Oh, and by the way I love Corvairs!
Thank you!
Good vid, I have done this operation many times. Your old school jack stands scare me!
I do have some new ones now, but these are a lot stouter than they look, they are not just a sheet metal tube.
I had those headers on my 65 140bhp Corsa, excellent flow.
Came here from Corvairs Owners Group, great video.
Beautiful car! I love the LM sedans.
good video very helpful .. when you talk about a noise .. I have aloud moaning noise .. like a car with no power steering fluid...I have a 65' corvair thanks
Funny you should say that - I just posted another Corvair video and the moaning sound I was hearing at the track was a side bearing failing in the differential. Could be a number of things in your case, but if it's the diff, I'll have a rebuild video here eventually. :) ua-cam.com/video/C5EAgenbPKY/v-deo.html
It has not been enough to view your recent videos. I had to dig back to this one. Just checking your consistency in approach.
Hah, thanks. I'm trying to improve the quality as I go. The Corvair stuff I try to be more detailed because there isn't much good Corvair content out there. Of course it helps immensely that I just keep getting better looking every year!
Great instructional video
Glad you found it helpful!
Great looking fix..
awesome video
Thanks!
seems like properly sized spacers washers and or bushings, might’ve been a worthy consideration.
the head of the bolt with the flat side and cam washer tells the tale. it is at best a grade 5. altho with what appeared to be a flat smooth head, and those threads nearly gone, likely grade 3 wld be more like it.
maybe give a thot to a fab / machine shop for some made in the USA critical application hardware and properly hardened bolts. corvairs long and always have been worthy of the good stuff.
PS
you’re makin my brain hurt, brother.
im not certain how many years i am, after the fact. however, a 1/2” bolt in a 5/8” bore, was fairly askin for trouble. was it not?
either sleeve the bore. or use a 5/8” bolt.
grade 8 bolts’re marked grade 8.
grade 5 bolts’re marked grade 5.
always.
Making people's brain hurt is one of my few skills!
The sleeve on the control arm end could be spreading the bracket making the holes too far apart.
Clarks claims that bracket that relocates the attachment point is "the least expensive handling mod for the buck". It's in their catalog.
I guess it is pretty off topic but do anyone know a good website to stream new series online ?
@Dominick Lennon Lately I have been using FlixZone. Just google for it :)
@Maximilian Jesse yea, I've been watching on FlixZone for years myself :)
@Maximilian Jesse thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I really appreciate it !
@Dominick Lennon Happy to help :D
Does anyone make a yoke and bearing assembly that is made into a disc brake conversion? Drilling new locating holes in the old bracket makes a lot more stress around the old holes doesn't it?
I have front disc brakes but not rear, but to my knowledge, the rear disc conversion kits don't change out the hub. You can find them at Clark's and at LeVair Performance, probably among others.
So far no issues in my redrilled bracket, and I haven't heard of any from others that have done the same!
The way to install the bracket is to loosely install all bolts with no arms attached. Then tighten down the bolts in an X style and then install the control rods. Apparently, you haven't read the instructions that came with the bracket nor have you read the instructions Clarks' has on their website.
I mean, "he didn't read the instructions" is something that has an excellent chance of appearing on my tombstone. But that method has never worked well for me, especially with nylon bushings in the control arms (which I used to have) that make it very difficult to 'twist' the arms into the correct angle.
Very intriguing. Does Tom make the whole lower control arm or just the thread on ends? Did you mean Speedway Motors for the control arms?
I did get the threaded tube from Speedway Motors. Tom can supply everything in a kit, but the custom parts he makes are the end pieces.
Loosen the lock bolts on the control arms so they can take the twisting away from the end sleeves.
well done
Rear axle constantly shears on my 63 Corvair.
Thank you for posting your wk. on the Corvair. I own a 1964 here in M.B. CA. While watching your vid. I thought something was wrong with it as it went dark with the back ground music in two spots.
Would you recommend the same up grade for mine?
I hope you have time to pist more work to your Corvair😁
Thanks for letting me know, Richard. I'll be more careful in editing in the future!
The 1964 model has a totally different rear suspension, with a transverse spring that serves to help locate the swing axle. There's no lower control arm/strut rod in your case.
I hope everything is still going well with you and your car. I hate to say it but you have put out some misinformation on the way you installed your lower control arms. The metal sleeve inside the poly bushing should be tight against the inside of the control arm mounts. The poly bushing pivots on the metal sleeve, thats why you have a grease zerk on each end. So the bolts should be tight enough to pinch the sleeve so it doesn't rotate. If you have a small gap between the mount and poly bushing this is normal. And as one of the other replies mentioned if you had the rod ends loose you wouldn't have had to drop the rear of the engine. Probably could have mounted the bracket first then the control arm last. Other than that good video. We all can learn from each other as I know others have from your video. God Bless you and your family. Happy New Year.
With skills like you describe, I should have a cable news show by now!
@@FlawlessPlanGarage I'd watch it. When I was kid my dad bought thirteen different Corvairs. He wanted to put a V8 in one. He finally found one he thought worthy then decided to just drive it. It was a 66 Corsa 4sp. By the time I got to drive it the front end had been wrecked and the clutch was worn out. That was forty years ago. I'd still drive one today if I had one.
like the corvair
Can you provide a link to the fellow who made the ends for you?
tknoblauch@satx.rr.com
I tried to find the Tom knoblock control arms everywhere on his site and I couldn't find them what is the part number and how do I order them please
You can email Tom at tknoblauch@satx.rr.com
Thanks for the video - good explanation on why your previous setup with the 'vette arms wasn't great. Two comments - why not just use two stock inner mounting brackets rather than re-drill the Crown one? (also easier to install one side at a time). And as for the install - I would have thought if you had loosened the jam nuts on the bars, they would be able to twist allowing an easier alignment with the inner bracket?
I just don't have a set of the stock mounting brackets on hand, and the OTTO piece is nice and strong from whatever that's worth!
Loosening the jamb nuts would have no effect - the twisting force is on a different plane.
Where did you get the auto performance parts bracket? And what model is the bracket?
It's an old "OTTO" performance parts bracket. I got it used many years ago, and I don't think there is a source for them new any longer. I don't know of a model number either. It relocates the rear pivot point to make the LCA move parallel to the rear axle, which as people later learned, actually isn't a handling improvement. The camber gain under compression with the stock brackets/location is a good thing. But I already had the OTTO bracket and it's stronger than the stock ones, so I kept it with the modifications shown in the video.
What wheels are you using?
16x7 "Superlite" brand wheels made in Australia. I don't think they are available any longer, but there are a number of these "minilite" style wheels available in different forms - I love them!
0:58 a properly made spacer should fix that issue
What size rims ?
16x7 "Superlite" brand from Australia some years ago
Turn the bolt around and tighten it.. it will compress the bracket.
How do I order these?
Bob, you can reach Tom Knoblauch at tknoblauch@satx.rr.com
@@FlawlessPlanGarage Thanks
Nothing wrong with the factory control arm with new bushings. This seems like a lot of work for little reward.
Good thing I only wasted my own effort, then! 😀
Oh man, I wish you would have taken her out and talked about it
You can see the suspension in action here: ua-cam.com/video/cMO02umtO2o/v-deo.html
... And some driving and discussion here: ua-cam.com/video/C5EAgenbPKY/v-deo.html
ok, I know its been a long time since I worked on my 65 140 Corsa, but why didn't you install the center mount that connects to the transaxle FIRST!!! and it looks like that mount doesn't line up with the transaxle, and the holes are too big for the bolts!!! you have too many wrongs before you should even start! mike
I've tried putting the mount on first, it doesn't work for me, the lower links have to twist too much.
Not "stupid", but "resourceful".
The very first thing I would do is buy some better jack stands. I would NOT risk my LIFE to these cheap jack stands.
Those jack stands are older than I am - and they are built better, too
Turn the bolt around and tighten it.. it will compress the bracket.