If you use peel-ply on your tabs - then peel when it is cured, it will leave a much nicer surface. You can also put your thickened epoxy in a piping bag for easier application of an even amount :) Love watching your channel!
I also like adding the fiberglass on top of the uncured fillet it lets you smooth out the layup without any bumps that would need to be sanded down. Nice job.
Having the right tools (and skills) makes this look so easy. I can only imagine the mess I'd make of the routing work that you did at about 12:08 with my shoddy skills & tools. :-) Keep up the good work.
I have followd your channel for the last year or so. Learnd alot and got so inspired that egen i bought my new projectboat i started my own DIY channel. Thanks for your work and effort to teach and inspire! ❤️❤️
Nice Videos! Another product that may have been nice for this is PolyOne Hammerhead board. It is a Thermoplastic with Fiberglass Skins already on, so can just be Tabbed in.
Andy, your videos are great! I picked up a project center console to play with and hope to do as well on it as you do on yours. Thanks for all the great tips and advice!! Until next Sunday, have a great week!!
Another great video Andy thank you. I've learned a lot from these videos and have been able to bring over some of your process in to my project skiffs. Thank you!
great progress and cool idea for coolers. i had a thought ya may appreciate. instead of having an open drain. it may be a good idea to put in a drain pump like marine refridgerators have. this would allow you to keep the cold ice water saving much of your cooling capacity. also would allow you to add salt to the ice to have super cold drinks. then pump it out when done... just a thought.
Does the gelcoat (white) you didn't sand to bare Glass (green) effect the bond of the supports or does it not matter as long is its sanded well and cleaned. I may have had a false understanding that glass wouldn't lay on gelcoat and only on exposed glass.
The Total Boat 2:1 epoxy is Mas Epoxy's low viscosity resin relabled. Non blushing, fast absorbtion in glass, superstuff. Glad to see you're using it more. Try the milled fiberglass filler its great.
Your videos are great!!! I wanted to mention something that works great for the beginners and that's tell them use baby powder on exposed skin to keep fiberglass out of skin pores. Also I have looked at the Total Boats products and I wanted to mention a supplier I use and they have many of the same products (Express Composites Inc.) Keep up the GREAT work
woke up this morning to the worse flu in years. shivering, muscle pain, the ususal yuck. plopped down on couch and THIS video appeared!!! Thank you for taking me someplace fun for 22 mins. Body is geck but mind is playing on my boat. Thank you!
Hi Andy love the cooler idea , one question with weep holes. The water run off goes where, on the deck or into bilge area ? I have a cooler above deck and a expandable plug and hose that runs to a above water line drain bulkhead fitting.
Love your video's Andy. From one boatbuilder to another why dont you use pelply? I use it then give it a quick scuff and carry on with my glass work. Saves me a lot of sanding and alot of the amines (bad stuff) that is in epoxy get taken off when you remove it. Also i grind out a little rebate (1 - 1.5mm ) where the tabbing sits giving me less filling and fairing. Keep up the good work.
It is interesting to see the differences in how you do your work on boats, and how we do our work on industrial systems. In my business we work with vinyl ester FRP for its corrosion resistant properties. We work mostly on reactor vessels and ductwork. The biggest difference is that we are mainly concerned with strength and leak tight construction. Cosmetic appearance is not as important, but it's a mater of personal pride in workmanship. Love watching your videos. I always learn something new or learn about some new tool. One question I have is that you mentioned that acetone does not remove wax. Are you sure about that? We always scuff and wipe with acetone and have never had a problem with adhesion.
What do you think of BuyPlastic White HDPE Boat Board, Marine Grade Plastic Sheet 3/4" x 12" x 27", High Density Polyethylene Panels? Is this a good material for redoing boat floor? If so, do you still need to cover with fiberglass as you wood plywood? Love you videos by the way.
So, you put weep holes in the new lockers, but where does any water go other than in that well? Will you put another hole in the well that drains into the bilge?
Hi! What a great resource channel you have here, thank you soooo much! Together with the channel "Sail Life", you are a great source for my upcoming plans of working with glassfiber and epoxy. I have NO experience with glassfiber production at all, but I am an experienced woodworker. I see many handtools used for grinding and sanding, of course all connected to a vacuum cleaner. From my woodworking experience, I know the vacuum cleaner hose can be an annoyance (if not a pain). Have you maybe found a fairly unobtrusive flexible hose or do you use just the hose that comes with the vac cleaner? Once more: thank you for all the expertise and I will check-out your listed hardware and see to support if I can. Cheers, Igor
Nice work as always Andy. Love watching your videos. Always informative and love your attention to detail. Compliments to you. Question? How do you clean you glass roller? And your mixing pots? Cheers Mike
Andy , i love your videos, but why would you cut corrners and tabb over the FlowCoat. Little bit extra prep work would go a long way Grind the area clean prior to the Coosa board going in would have been so much easier , plus when you placed the board on a bedding , just cove it at the same time. Love your channel keep up the good work mate 👊
Let me ask you something…I change my tank but I see the pipe on the bottom..but that pipe coming front to the back of the boat..what is that..it’s the big pipe…thanks
Andy I was wondering why you don't finish your tabbing with a wide layer of chop strand that has been torn rather than cut so that you get a nice feather edge and reduce your sanding time
U.S. chop is held together with styrene and epoxy doesn't get a reaction out of it, Mads is using a chop held together with a powder so his epoxy works with it..
Hi. I just started watching your channel about a month ago. You have given me so much information to repair, form and maintain a fiber glass Boat. But have a big question for you.. I want to buy a wooden hull boat, but I want to glass the bottom. She's a 40' Christ Craft 1967. All wooden repairs where made and completed. She has a double hull. I know placing her in the water to reseal the planks but I don't want the boat to take on the water weight to expand the planks. I was wonder if the bottom was glassed above the water by 2-1/2' higher it would keep the hull dry and not take on so much weight. Can you let me know what you think?
Andy can you help, I have a materiAl like Awlgrip or similar on my yacht deck but the colour has faded (originally pastel blue) I want to paint it but not sure what paint I can use as I want it to remain non slip. Can you give your genius thoughts on this thanks Dan
Cool as always but I don't get why you covered the drain holes in the first place especially since you planned on making non-insulated built in ice chest so now the water is going to leak into the walk way area which will probably be slick as snot instead of draining down into the middle of the boat and out the back out the drain plug.
Hi, is there a reason you don’t use Nida core on your projects? I am looking at using it to re core parts of a 26 foot sailboat but can’t find a lot of information about it.
Hey guys, need a little help with a question i cant find an answer to. Can you use epoxy resin over polyester resin to cure?! My layup is going to start with poly and end in epoxy but i dont know if i need to cure the poly with pva 1st or can i wet up epoxy after the poly sets up??
You do some real good work!! Thanks for sharing. How do you deal with waste? Flammables and scraps are kinda scary? Edit: have you seen what Madds has done to bend wood around to make awsome corners?
Basically I cure anything that will be going in to the trash and toss it. Things like soaked rags and papertowel I drape over the garbage can to evaporate, then toss :-)
I'm in the process of doin the same thing and trying to get as much info from you before I start from what kind of cloth u use to whats the strongest cloth to add strength to a transom or stringers and whats the best fiberglass resin to do all this
What was rationale for leaving the existing gelcoat. I know epoxy will stick to it, but seems overkill when the underlying bond (gelcoat to laminate) is potentially weaker.
Hi Andy. Just wondering...you’ve laminated 1708 straight on the gelcoat... Why not on bare fiberglas? And yes I’ve seen the epoxy on gelcoat test. It doesn’t has to be “that strong”?
The test I did a few years back was regarding applying gelcoat onto epoxy which is generally considered a no-no. Applying epoxy onto a poly surface (gelcoat) works great and will give a very strong bond. I didn't completely sand off the gelcoat as it wasn't necessary, and it would have removed a lot of fiberglass in the process
That Coosa looks like some cool stuff! Do you think it would work to make a storage box for under my helm chair? Or is it not structural enough and should I stick to glass over plywood? And If your up to it it would be cool to see how you would make a box lol. Thanx man love the show keep up the good work
Time management tip: After plugging your sponsor, Allow whatever time management they suggest, before switching a viewers gears back to what the viewer wanted to learn about. I am slow. 15 seconds would have been better than trying too push forward to skip the Ad plug. Advertising is important. I get that. But I just realized. I get way to much advertisement. I am off to look up the cooza board.
Something that I ended up editing out of the video was that there's going to be a couple of scuppers in the center section of the helm area directly next to where the weep holes are located :-) Anything that drains out of the lockers should go directly into the scuppers and down into the bilge keeping the entire center area dry ;-)
Didn’t finish my question. Can I fiberglass over painted then sanded areas? After cleaned of course! When new wood is installed, can I paint then fiberglass?
You use 1708 a lot in your projects, is 1708 a generic term for what would be Combi Matt in the UK, it would be categorized by weight ie 600/400 per meter, is 1708 a certain weight of combi matt? thanks
We have tested our Nohr-S® Polyurea Coating on Coosa, it looks and holds up excellent! www.legacyindustrial.net/products/nohr-coatings/nohr-s-polyurea-coating.html
Ice water leaking from those weep holes will make for a very unsafe and uncomfortable feeling if you are barefoot. I think that a hole within the kooler , which would drain into the bilge, will be safer. Just sayin'
Something that I ended up editing out of the video was that there's going to be a couple of scuppers in the center section of the helm area directly next to where the weep holes are located :-) Anything that drains out of the lockers should go directly into the scuppers and down into the bilge keeping the entire center area dry ;-)
I use mine as storage and secondary as a cooler. Nice to have your boxes with the ability to hold ice. I used them as coolers when im camping etc when space is critical.
Why are you laminating over topcoat and not sanding down to fiberglass? To save time? I think this is not the proper way to do it. It can cause de-lamination because the fiber is not connected to fiber, and also the resin will not add itself into the old cured resin...😊anyway Nice work.
If you use peel-ply on your tabs - then peel when it is cured, it will leave a much nicer surface. You can also put your thickened epoxy in a piping bag for easier application of an even amount :) Love watching your channel!
I also like adding the fiberglass on top of the uncured fillet it lets you smooth out the layup without any bumps that would need to be sanded down. Nice job.
Good Video. Perfect balance between explanation and action!
Sooooo glad there is a fast forward button!! And that blinking light!
Having the right tools (and skills) makes this look so easy. I can only imagine the mess I'd make of the routing work that you did at about 12:08 with my shoddy skills & tools. :-)
Keep up the good work.
That router is fantastic; without it I would not be using it to trim the glass ;-)
Same here! I'd be thrilled if I could bring my skills up to Andy's "Miffed" level!
Instablaster...
@14:59: Quisk, quick & brisk. I like it.
I have followd your channel for the last year or so. Learnd alot and got so inspired that egen i bought my new projectboat i started my own DIY channel.
Thanks for your work and effort to teach and inspire! ❤️❤️
Amazing amount of help
Nice Videos! Another product that may have been nice for this is PolyOne Hammerhead board. It is a Thermoplastic with Fiberglass Skins already on, so can just be Tabbed in.
Always enjoy your vids.I have learned a ton from you.Thanks again!
Nice job Andy got some panels to put in soon so this was really handy pre-start vid. many thanks
I think you would make a pretty good school teacher at a Vo-Tec school
Andy, your videos are great! I picked up a project center console to play with and hope to do as well on it as you do on yours. Thanks for all the great tips and advice!! Until next Sunday, have a great week!!
Another great video Andy thank you. I've learned a lot from these videos and have been able to bring over some of your process in to my project skiffs. Thank you!
great progress and cool idea for coolers. i had a thought ya may appreciate. instead of having an open drain. it may be a good idea to put in a drain pump like marine refridgerators have. this would allow you to keep the cold ice water saving much of your cooling capacity. also would allow you to add salt to the ice to have super cold drinks. then pump it out when done...
just a thought.
Does the gelcoat (white) you didn't sand to bare Glass (green) effect the bond of the supports or does it not matter as long is its sanded well and cleaned. I may have had a false understanding that glass wouldn't lay on gelcoat and only on exposed glass.
The Total Boat 2:1 epoxy is Mas Epoxy's low viscosity resin relabled. Non blushing, fast absorbtion in glass, superstuff. Glad to see you're using it more. Try the milled fiberglass filler its great.
Yeah, it looks like the exact same jugs even. What’s weird is Total Boat is $6 cheaper per gallon.
Your videos are great!!! I wanted to mention something that works great for the beginners and that's tell them use baby powder on exposed skin to keep fiberglass out of skin pores. Also I have looked at the Total Boats products and I wanted to mention a supplier I use and they have many of the same products (Express Composites Inc.) Keep up the GREAT work
I've used Express for many years, great folks! LeeAnn is a trip ;-)!
Thank you for you business!
woke up this morning to the worse flu in years. shivering, muscle pain, the ususal yuck. plopped down on couch and THIS video appeared!!!
Thank you for taking me someplace fun for 22 mins. Body is geck but mind is playing on my boat. Thank you!
Hope you're feeling better :-)!
Hi Andy love the cooler idea , one question with weep holes. The water run off goes where, on the deck or into bilge area ? I have a cooler above deck and a expandable plug and hose that runs to a above water line drain bulkhead fitting.
Love your video's Andy. From one boatbuilder to another why dont you use pelply? I use it then give it a quick scuff and carry on with my glass work. Saves me a lot of sanding and alot of the amines (bad stuff) that is in epoxy get taken off when you remove it. Also i grind out a little rebate (1 - 1.5mm ) where the tabbing sits giving me less filling and fairing. Keep up the good work.
It is interesting to see the differences in how you do your work on boats, and how we do our work on industrial systems. In my business we work with vinyl ester FRP for its corrosion resistant properties. We work mostly on reactor vessels and ductwork. The biggest difference is that we are mainly concerned with strength and leak tight construction. Cosmetic appearance is not as important, but it's a mater of personal pride in workmanship. Love watching your videos. I always learn something new or learn about some new tool.
One question I have is that you mentioned that acetone does not remove wax. Are you sure about that? We always scuff and wipe with acetone and have never had a problem with adhesion.
What do you think of BuyPlastic White HDPE Boat Board, Marine Grade Plastic Sheet 3/4" x 12" x 27", High Density Polyethylene Panels?
Is this a good material for redoing boat floor? If so, do you still need to cover with fiberglass as you wood plywood? Love you videos by the way.
Do the weep holes in the Coosa need to be drill-fill-drilled?
So, you put weep holes in the new lockers, but where does any water go other than in that well? Will you put another hole in the well that drains into the bilge?
Hi! What a great resource channel you have here, thank you soooo much! Together with the channel "Sail Life", you are a great source for my upcoming plans of working with glassfiber and epoxy. I have NO experience with glassfiber production at all, but I am an experienced woodworker.
I see many handtools used for grinding and sanding, of course all connected to a vacuum cleaner. From my woodworking experience, I know the vacuum cleaner hose can be an annoyance (if not a pain). Have you maybe found a fairly unobtrusive flexible hose or do you use just the hose that comes with the vac cleaner?
Once more: thank you for all the expertise and I will check-out your listed hardware and see to support if I can. Cheers, Igor
Nice work as always Andy.
Love watching your videos. Always informative and love your attention to detail.
Compliments to you.
Question? How do you clean you glass roller? And your mixing pots?
Cheers
Mike
Andy , i love your videos, but
why would you cut corrners and tabb over the FlowCoat.
Little bit extra prep work would go a long way
Grind the area clean prior to the Coosa board going in would have been so much easier , plus when you placed the board on a bedding , just cove it at the same time.
Love your channel keep up the good work mate 👊
Let me ask you something…I change my tank but I see the pipe on the bottom..but that pipe coming front to the back of the boat..what is that..it’s the big pipe…thanks
Andy I was wondering why you don't finish your tabbing with a wide layer of chop strand that has been torn rather than cut so that you get a nice feather edge and reduce your sanding time
mostly because I was using epoxy, which doesn't work very well with CSM :-/
U.S. chop is held together with styrene and epoxy doesn't get a reaction out of it, Mads is using a chop held together with a powder so his epoxy works with it..
Hi. I just started watching your channel about a month ago. You have given me so much information to repair, form and maintain a fiber glass Boat. But have a big question for you.. I want to buy a wooden hull boat, but I want to glass the bottom. She's a 40' Christ Craft 1967. All wooden repairs where made and completed. She has a double hull. I know placing her in the water to reseal the planks but I don't want the boat to take on the water weight to expand the planks. I was wonder if the bottom was glassed above the water by 2-1/2' higher it would keep the hull dry and not take on so much weight. Can you let me know what you think?
I hear you use cabosil or siloca a fair bit in thickening, why not talc
Did you just glass over the limber holes you cut?
looks like it, but I set the glass up to the hole, but not over it
good stuff, although I noticed several opportunities to have the Sanford and son theme song were missed. ;)
www.redringtones.com/sanford-son-theme-song/
just to make it easier lol
Andy can you help, I have a materiAl like Awlgrip or similar on my yacht deck but the colour has faded (originally pastel blue) I want to paint it but not sure what paint I can use as I want it to remain non slip. Can you give your genius thoughts on this thanks Dan
Cool as always but I don't get why you covered the drain holes in the first place especially since you planned on making non-insulated built in ice chest so now the water is going to leak into the walk way area which will probably be slick as snot instead of draining down into the middle of the boat and out the back out the drain plug.
Does the narrow strip of glass get laid on the bottom?
Great vid Andy,. What tool are you using to cut the 1708? I would love to get one if i knew what it is.
I think I left a link in the description :-) Got them from JamestownDistributors.com
starts at 1:30
What is the name of instrument are you using at 17.12min?with him you eliminate buble aer
Hi, is there a reason you don’t use Nida core on your projects? I am looking at using it to re core parts of a 26 foot sailboat but can’t find a lot of information about it.
Are those "coolers" going to have any insulation?
What brand of tape measure is that the markings on the back caught my eye fast :P
Hey guys, need a little help with a question i cant find an answer to. Can you use epoxy resin over polyester resin to cure?! My layup is going to start with poly and end in epoxy but i dont know if i need to cure the poly with pva 1st or can i wet up epoxy after the poly sets up??
You do some real good work!! Thanks for sharing. How do you deal with waste? Flammables and scraps are kinda scary?
Edit: have you seen what Madds has done to bend wood around to make awsome corners?
Basically I cure anything that will be going in to the trash and toss it. Things like soaked rags and papertowel I drape over the garbage can to evaporate, then toss :-)
@@boatworkstoday ...i gotchya! Smart!!
I WISH U WOULD EXPLAIN WHAT KIND OF CLOTH U USE WITH THE TOTAL BOAT EPOXY...
I'm in the process of doin the same thing and trying to get as much info from you before I start from what kind of cloth u use to whats the strongest cloth to add strength to a transom or stringers and whats the best fiberglass resin to do all this
You should do a whole episode of what cloth works best with what resins and what its used for
He mentions several times in the video that he's using 1708.
Are there metering pumps available for the total boat epoxy?
Yes, for both their 2:1 and 5:1 epoxies :-)
What was rationale for leaving the existing gelcoat. I know epoxy will stick to it, but seems overkill when the underlying bond (gelcoat to laminate) is potentially weaker.
I have the same question, i always heard to glass to bare glass.
👍
Hi Andy. Just wondering...you’ve laminated 1708 straight on the gelcoat... Why not on bare fiberglas? And yes I’ve seen the epoxy on gelcoat test. It doesn’t has to be “that strong”?
The test I did a few years back was regarding applying gelcoat onto epoxy which is generally considered a no-no. Applying epoxy onto a poly surface (gelcoat) works great and will give a very strong bond. I didn't completely sand off the gelcoat as it wasn't necessary, and it would have removed a lot of fiberglass in the process
ok, thanks :)
Do you let the fillet set up before tabbing?
not usually; saves a step not having to sand ;-)
but you have to stick with the same type of resin (poly or epoxy) for both the fillet and glasswork
@@boatworkstodayThanks for the rely. I'd be worried about upsetting/dislodging the still-soft fillet... but then I don't have your experience.
Got a bass boat to replace Transom in.
What is the fiberglass 3/4 board called so I can maybe find it local?
Look up CoosaComposites.com
@@boatworkstoday Thank You.
Also found another video last night where that name was mentioned.
What is the song you play on your videos
That Coosa looks like some cool stuff! Do you think it would work to make a storage box for under my helm chair? Or is it not structural enough and should I stick to glass over plywood? And If your up to it it would be cool to see how you would make a box lol. Thanx man love the show keep up the good work
Time management tip: After plugging your sponsor, Allow whatever time management they suggest, before switching a viewers gears back to what the viewer wanted to learn about. I am slow. 15 seconds would have been better than trying too push forward to skip the Ad plug. Advertising is important. I get that. But I just realized. I get way to much advertisement. I am off to look up the cooza board.
Andy...you're going to flood your cabin with all that melted ice~!
Something that I ended up editing out of the video was that there's going to be a couple of scuppers in the center section of the helm area directly next to where the weep holes are located :-) Anything that drains out of the lockers should go directly into the scuppers and down into the bilge keeping the entire center area dry ;-)
I didn't know that Thixo stuff existed. I might have to try it. Can it be smoothed over and used as a fillit material?
Absolutely!
Can I fiberglass over a sanded painted
Didn’t finish my question. Can I fiberglass over painted then sanded areas? After cleaned of course! When new wood is installed, can I paint then fiberglass?
Not a good idea. Paint layer would be the weak link in the laminate and be prone to delamination :-/
You use 1708 a lot in your projects, is 1708 a generic term for what would be Combi Matt in the UK, it would be categorized by weight ie 600/400 per meter, is 1708 a certain weight of combi matt? thanks
Ounces per square foot I believe.
In carpentry we call that a revile.
Interesting
We have tested our Nohr-S® Polyurea Coating on Coosa, it looks and holds up excellent!
www.legacyindustrial.net/products/nohr-coatings/nohr-s-polyurea-coating.html
Ice water leaking from those weep holes will make for a very unsafe and uncomfortable feeling if you are barefoot. I think that a hole within the kooler , which would drain into the bilge, will be safer. Just sayin'
Something that I ended up editing out of the video was that there's going to be a couple of scuppers in the center section of the helm area directly next to where the weep holes are located :-) Anything that drains out of the lockers should go directly into the scuppers and down into the bilge keeping the entire center area dry ;-)
What about putting in some kind of drain plug?
Mantap😍😍😍😚😍😚😍🖒😍🖒😍🖒🖒😍
Coolers work much better if you let the water remain in the cooler rather than drain it.
honestly, I've never found built in coolers on boats all that useful.
I mean you gotta carry all the stuff to the boat in a cooler anyway . . .
I use mine as storage and secondary as a cooler. Nice to have your boxes with the ability to hold ice. I used them as coolers when im camping etc when space is critical.
Andy check out Carsen wood clamps, pr wood Clamps , Kit $29.95
🤣🤣🤣
Why are you laminating over topcoat and not sanding down to fiberglass? To save time? I think this is not the proper way to do it. It can cause de-lamination because the fiber is not connected to fiber, and also the resin will not add itself into the old cured resin...😊anyway Nice work.