Dear Andy, I wanted to let you know that I enjoy your videos immensely. You are a natural teacher and I've learned so much watching your videos. You have inspired and encouraged me to "go for it". Please keep em coming!
I've been doing glass work for some years and I thought I knew a lot about it. After watching your show for over a year now i realize I didn't know as much as I thought. I am so glad I found your UA-cam videos cause now I know a lot more. Thank you so much it has made my job so much easier working on these semi hoods
I set straight edges for my cuts. It minimizes the chances of mistakes, and most of the time it means i don't have to block sand anything to make it straight. We did it the video way for years, and after seeing straight edges, it has saved us more time and gets rid of a ton of finish work.
Drinking coffee early on a Sunday morning, $2.00. Drinking coffee early on a Sunday morning and getting a notification that Boat works today posted a new video, PRICELESS. 🙌
Man, on one hand I question a lot of your processes as being over complicated, but then when I see how perfect your stuff comes out it all becomes apparent as to why you do it the way you do.
I've watched dozens of videos and look forward to more. Your vids are directed toward less experienced people than yourself and considering what it takes to produce them, I sincerely appreciate your goodwill and effort. You have a great style for this, you get it done but you share all the info I need about materials, procedures, tools, and equipment. I hope it's all worth your effort. Thanks.
AVE would be proud! You need a router table. Even a small one that you leave a flush trim bit in would work. I've found it's a lot easier to move the work piece around the bit then to have to stop and re-clamp the work piece multiple times with a hand held router.
A very interesting and informative video. The thing that really stands out is your patience and how meticulous you are. Rushing never created a masterpiece.
Andy yes it's me again you are gonna worry yourself into an early grave, I have been into boats and boating for many years now long retired, do you realise that if when the boat was originally built if the builders had put into the boat as much care in there work as you have in doing the repairs and alterations you have done, you would not have had a video to entertain us with at all. You're the best and the times I have recommended other boat owners with problems to contact you I apologise for not allowing you any life outside at all. Cheers great vid.
A fence for straight(er) jig-saw cuts works surprisingly well... if you don’t “force” the cut! A male mold for making a fiberglass drain channel, with a lip for mounting underneath the hatch “frame” can easily be made 8’ long, because those “slab” type hatches with gaskets always leak.
Great job utilizing Coosa. I started using it during the summer and am discovering great new applications. I have a water tank that is almost like a bathtub. I replaced the rotting wooden top of the tank with 1/2" 25# Coosa with 10 oz woven glass laminated to each side for rigidity and durability. Then painted the entire tank and Coosa with potable water approved 2 part epoxy paint. Came out super clean and no worries of rot in the top during the next 40 years. Next I plan to replace a teak shower grate that is splintering with a piece of Coosa with holes drilled in it to allow drainage. It will all be sealed with Epoxy and laminated with something fancy like carbon fiber cloth for a cool look I may add non skid in the final epoxy coat!
You might want to look into some of the templates that car audio guys use. They sell sets of ABS plastic that you double-side-tape down, and then use a router table to cut out shapes. They have all sorts of organic curves, circles, straight edges. Might be really handy for what you do.
two things, you should round the bottom edge of the lid could be kinda sharp on the fingers. and 2 make sure you have enough room between the lid and where its closing on the inside edge if you layer glass. the lid will need room to close with out binding on the face
Flush trim with different size bearings, plus a router radius guide, and this could be machined perfect with just router work. Still looks good though Andy!
Been telling Andy for quite a while to use the proper words for getting the camera to focus. LOL...I too almost spit out my beverage on this though...LOL
Hi Andy. Good job as always. My only remark or an advice is about squeezing coosa parts for laminating together. I guess the stress would be spread more evenly when you clip clamps not directly on coosa but through a piece of plywood. Thus, the final layer of cured resin in-between panels should be perfectly even. Cheers and have a nice week without storms.
I'm a big fan of the parallel straight cuts that a tablesaw makes. Are boats that crooked that every piece needs to be patterned then cut and fit? IMHO a rip fence and a miter gauge would speed you up a lot. Thanks for your efforts,
Love the video Andy. I always look forward to them. I've never done any fiberglass work, I'm a metal fab guy. But I'm going to start playing around with it thanks to you. By the way 4mm is right between 1\8'' and 3\16''. It's .157'' . Looking forward to future videos.
Hello, Have to say I feel for you as I have never gotten total accuracy from the many jig saws that I have had and do have. I was wondering if you are planning any gutters for the 'ice' box lids to keep spray and rainwater from running directly into whatever you have stowed? Take care. Doug
Hi Andy. I'm not a profesional, but for straight cutting in hatches like this I'm using Metabo KS 55 with Bosch Multi Material blade 3,2 mm thick on it with Makita rail guide and it works greate, arches I'm cuting with eletrick jigsaw and sanding/triming it. If you like You can use Festool Ts 55 but it is way more expensive (for me) and propably more durable, but I'm just a hobbyist ;) Have a nice day.
Hi Andy,i live in Australia and have a boat that leaks water from roof..its fiberglass whats a good bondo (bog) to fill a couple of craters before paint? Would gell coat be ok ? Cheers keep up the great work👍👍
I’m curious if you’ve tried vacuum bagging when doing the flat laminates. There are ways to make it pretty cheap without using extremely expensive products. I’ve used a robinair 2 stage vane pump continuous duty with out issues and you can use the clear 4 mil greenhouse plastic without needing waxes or mold releases. The Home Depot single bead roof sealant is cheaper than the sticky tape from composites stores and works well. It’s not as good as the official stuff but works well enough. Even temporary molds can be made using block foam and a layer of plastic as a barrier then the composites laminated over that and vacuum bagged. Just curious. I have a 25’ whaler that I’ll be replacing the transom core on soon and will vacuum bag the new core material and skin back on. I did this on a 19ft whaler with great results even a few years later and many miles with the boat towed to SoCal and back plus towing to local lakes. No indication of stress cracks.
I know you said the lockers aren't exactly insulated, but the fact that you are relying on the coldness of lake water to keep your drinks cool in a boat is a bit depressing as it assumes that the lake is quite cold. It's also very relatable for me (greetings from Finland). However, even here waters get warm enough in the summer, that I wouldn't try cooling a beer with it.
If there was glass stripes in different with, that where tapered -thicker in the middle and thinner to the edges .. Wouldn't that be good for edges, tabing and more?
next time pull the temlates 1/2' apart and you have plenty of wiggle room..and less waste ( you still have the short strait cuts narrow but there you can use a fence)
Basically I have 2 types of blades for the bandsaw; a general purpose 1/4" and a $150 resaw blade. Wasn't going to trash the resaw blade with the Coosa and the 1/4" blade is a little too narrow to give good clean cuts (offset teeth) :-/ I thought about using it, but decided that the carbide jigsaw blade would be a little easier to work with :-)
I would love a video on fairing compound Vs automotive filler. Bondo ect. I don’t understand why you couldn’t use automotive filler for marine application.
Mr Peters... Fiberglass resin (polyester) has a moisture content. “Bondo” absorbs this moisture & swells. Also, any deep scratch through the primer allows water direct access. Steel has no moisture, so bondo is ok on car body work... unless you scratch through the paint!
9:54 Too late for you now, but maybe someone else will benefit in the future... If you'd simply slid your hinged lid out of the frame a bit, you'd have two straight, tight cuts to make on either side, then at the corners and along the back, you'd have plenty of room for error. For those straight sides, clamp down a straight edge for the saw's foot to follow and you'd be able to make the cut between the lines easy.
I wonder if, for cutting ONLY around the corners, it would have been helpful to modify a blade by grinding the back edge so that the blade is "shorter" (in the direction of cutting) so that is is more like a coping saw blade? For the straight cuts, a regular, unmodified, blade could be used.
@@boatworkstoday The width of the frame is different on both sides, but they're parallel. Each side is 90 degrees from the back cut, hence parallel. Just need to move the fence. I'm a woodworker, not a boat builder, but that could easily been cut straight on a table saw or band saw with a fence, then the corners with a jig saw with a scroll blade..
Why try cut a straight cut with a jigsaw of all things? Would have been far easier and more accurate to use a table saw for the straight cuts. If a jigsaw had to be used then use a straight edge guide. Also wouldnt it have been better to laminate the coosa first and then cut? Not trying to critcise here, but others will be trying to do what you have done, and simple things like that could prevent heartache later.
You make a lot of hatch lids and other panel type items... That being said, it confuses me to see you not using vacuum bagging especially for the Coosa board.
Dear Andy, I wanted to let you know that I enjoy your videos immensely. You are a natural teacher and I've learned so much watching your videos. You have inspired and encouraged me to "go for it". Please keep em coming!
I've been doing glass work for some years and I thought I knew a lot about it. After watching your show for over a year now i realize I didn't know as much as I thought. I am so glad I found your UA-cam videos cause now I know a lot more. Thank you so much it has made my job so much easier working on these semi hoods
Yet another awesome video. Thanks for the education and and entertainment.
I set straight edges for my cuts. It minimizes the chances of mistakes, and most of the time it means i don't have to block sand anything to make it straight. We did it the video way for years, and after seeing straight edges, it has saved us more time and gets rid of a ton of finish work.
Drinking coffee early on a Sunday morning, $2.00.
Drinking coffee early on a Sunday morning and getting a notification that Boat works today posted a new video, PRICELESS. 🙌
Spitting that coffee across the room when he makes the "Focus you *Achooo*" joke could cost you a keyboard. :)
The Sick Horse Ranch 😂
Enthusiastically agree!
Man, on one hand I question a lot of your processes as being over complicated, but then when I see how perfect your stuff comes out it all becomes apparent as to why you do it the way you do.
I may be a wood boat builder but I will admit it, I’m addicted to your channel. Great work keep it up please and thank you.
Ron Swanson....is that you?!
I've watched dozens of videos and look forward to more. Your vids are directed toward less experienced people than yourself and considering what it takes to produce them, I sincerely appreciate your goodwill and effort. You have a great style for this, you get it done but you share all the info I need about materials, procedures, tools, and equipment. I hope it's all worth your effort. Thanks.
👍👍👍 think this was your best video in a few months ...perfect length and was informative.
AVE would be proud!
You need a router table. Even a small one that you leave a flush trim bit in would work. I've found it's a lot easier to move the work piece around the bit then to have to stop and re-clamp the work piece multiple times with a hand held router.
A very interesting and informative video. The thing that really stands out is your patience and how meticulous you are. Rushing never created a masterpiece.
Excellent vid .......you are one hell of a craftsman......and teacher.
Thank you.
Andy yes it's me again you are gonna worry yourself into an early grave, I have been into boats and boating for many years now long retired, do you realise that if when the boat was originally built if the builders had put into the boat as much care in there work as you have in doing the repairs and alterations you have done, you would not have had a video to entertain us with at all.
You're the best and the times I have recommended other boat owners with problems to contact you I apologise for not allowing you any life outside at all.
Cheers great vid.
A fence for straight(er) jig-saw cuts works surprisingly well... if you don’t “force” the cut!
A male mold for making a fiberglass drain channel, with a lip for mounting underneath the hatch “frame” can easily be made 8’ long, because those “slab” type hatches with gaskets always leak.
Nice Ave. Quote. It always works for him.
This was a excellent video Andy !! Thank you. It was very informative also with perfect video length. Have a great day 👍👍👍
Great job utilizing Coosa. I started using it during the summer and am discovering great new applications. I have a water tank that is almost like a bathtub. I replaced the rotting wooden top of the tank with 1/2" 25# Coosa with 10 oz woven glass laminated to each side for rigidity and durability. Then painted the entire tank and Coosa with potable water approved 2 part epoxy paint. Came out super clean and no worries of rot in the top during the next 40 years. Next I plan to replace a teak shower grate that is splintering with a piece of Coosa with holes drilled in it to allow drainage. It will all be sealed with Epoxy and laminated with something fancy like carbon fiber cloth for a cool look I may add non skid in the final epoxy coat!
You might want to look into some of the templates that car audio guys use. They sell sets of ABS plastic that you double-side-tape down, and then use a router table to cut out shapes. They have all sorts of organic curves, circles, straight edges. Might be really handy for what you do.
Great Job Andy and I love the Music... It reminds me of Dan Folgelberg Sutters Mill, High County Snow bluegrass album.
Can't wait to see how that glass comes out! Thanks Andy!
Looks great Andy 👍😁
Right on time! I’m about to install front lockers in my Trihull too so this was super helpful!!!
two things, you should round the bottom edge of the lid could be kinda sharp on the fingers. and 2 make sure you have enough room between the lid and where its closing on the inside edge if you layer glass. the lid will need room to close with out binding on the face
Man, I love your Powermatics!!!
Flush trim with different size bearings, plus a router radius guide, and this could be machined perfect with just router work. Still looks good though Andy!
It’s official. Every UA-cam channel that I subscribe to, subscribes to AvE. Lol
Did I detect a slight nod to AvE?
"Hey! It works!" - I LOLed...
Been telling Andy for quite a while to use the proper words for getting the camera to focus. LOL...I too almost spit out my beverage on this though...LOL
Cracked me up!
Merry Christmas! ...and thank you for your Christmas present to me: this amazing video! (also, always comment because it upranks the video)
Hi Andy. Good job as always. My only remark or an advice is about squeezing coosa parts for laminating together. I guess the stress would be spread more evenly when you clip clamps not directly on coosa but through a piece of plywood. Thus, the final layer of cured resin in-between panels should be perfectly even.
Cheers and have a nice week without storms.
Did I hear millimetres mentioned.Yess!.Well done Andy.
Lol!! ;-)
I'm a big fan of the parallel straight cuts that a tablesaw makes. Are boats that crooked that every piece needs to be patterned then cut and fit? IMHO a rip fence and a miter gauge would speed you up a lot.
Thanks for your efforts,
Thank you so much for sharing so freely your expertise and experience. Very best wishes to you and your family for a joyous and happy holiday season!
Andy just goes to show even you can make little foo paas, nothing that a professional bodge cant cure.
cheers buddy great job.
Awesome video, I walked away with more knowledge, thank you!
Hi Andy, would having a cnc router save you time, especially with the radius and various other fitments you do by hand?
Love the video Andy. I always look forward to them. I've never done any fiberglass work, I'm a metal fab guy. But I'm going to start playing around with it thanks to you. By the way 4mm is right between 1\8'' and 3\16''. It's .157'' . Looking forward to future videos.
Did you consider putting a gutter underneath the gap between the top and the lid to keep spray water from inside while underway?
Hello, Have to say I feel for you as I have never gotten total accuracy from the many jig saws that I have had and do have. I was wondering if you are planning any gutters for the 'ice' box lids to keep spray and rainwater from running directly into whatever you have stowed? Take care. Doug
The fast vid of the assembly was fun to watch! The table is a bit unlevel. Lol!! Your gonna have a nice close fit. Looking great!!
Thank you.
Thanks for the tips and tricks, be helpful for one of my project's .all the best for the new year. Have fun
Milwaukee jigsaw?
Figured you would have had a festool!
Just pickin with you!
Enjoyed the video this week alot.
I have one of those Rigid sanders. It's a great tool and saves an unbelievable amount of time making parts.
For the price you really can't beat it!!
Hi Andy.
I'm not a profesional, but for straight cutting in hatches like this I'm using Metabo KS 55 with Bosch Multi Material blade 3,2 mm thick on it with Makita rail guide and it works greate, arches I'm cuting with eletrick jigsaw and sanding/triming it. If you like You can use Festool Ts 55 but it is way more expensive (for me) and propably more durable, but I'm just a hobbyist ;)
Have a nice day.
Andy, Merry Christmas. I wish you all the best in 2020. Hopefully Santa brings you a router table for your template routing!
You need to get a scrolling blade, much narrower than the regular blade.
Great job!
Looks great Andy, will you be making any kind of gutter for the hatch?
Guitar builders use masking tape on both surfaces and then superglue in between. Super glue on one side, excellerator in the other. Works like a charm
Hi Andy,i live in Australia and have a boat that leaks water from roof..its fiberglass whats a good bondo (bog) to fill a couple of craters before paint? Would gell coat be ok ? Cheers keep up the great work👍👍
Hi, great work. Can I use pvc forex instead of coosa board?
I’m curious if you’ve tried vacuum bagging when doing the flat laminates. There are ways to make it pretty cheap without using extremely expensive products. I’ve used a robinair 2 stage vane pump continuous duty with out issues and you can use the clear 4 mil greenhouse plastic without needing waxes or mold releases. The Home Depot single bead roof sealant is cheaper than the sticky tape from composites stores and works well. It’s not as good as the official stuff but works well enough. Even temporary molds can be made using block foam and a layer of plastic as a barrier then the composites laminated over that and vacuum bagged. Just curious.
I have a 25’ whaler that I’ll be replacing the transom core on soon and will vacuum bag the new core material and skin back on. I did this on a 19ft whaler with great results even a few years later and many miles with the boat towed to SoCal and back plus towing to local lakes. No indication of stress cracks.
I know you said the lockers aren't exactly insulated, but the fact that you are relying on the coldness of lake water to keep your drinks cool in a boat is a bit depressing as it assumes that the lake is quite cold. It's also very relatable for me (greetings from Finland). However, even here waters get warm enough in the summer, that I wouldn't try cooling a beer with it.
They make jigsaw blades for cutting a tight radius. Your blade is too wide.
Why thickened and not just straight epoxy? To account for some very small surface variations?
love your work, and great vid. Did the aerial shots come from the new gantry. if so please give us train spotters a peek.
If there was glass stripes in different with, that where tapered -thicker in the middle and thinner to the edges ..
Wouldn't that be good for edges, tabing and more?
next time pull the temlates 1/2' apart and you have plenty of wiggle room..and less waste ( you still have the short strait cuts narrow but there you can use a fence)
I know.....It's easy to come up with a better solution laying in the sofa..sorry 😁
Focus you f$@!
It works every time, 70% of the time. Hahaha
Told you it works...Channeling your inner AvE!
Anyone else who wondered when he cut the templates for the edging strips, why he did not directly cut the coos with the table saw?
How much is a sheet of the cosa board
Wouldn't a plunge cutting router make this job much easier than the jig saw?
Why didn't you use your bandsaw with a fence? Love the videos
Basically I have 2 types of blades for the bandsaw; a general purpose 1/4" and a $150 resaw blade. Wasn't going to trash the resaw blade with the Coosa and the 1/4" blade is a little too narrow to give good clean cuts (offset teeth) :-/ I thought about using it, but decided that the carbide jigsaw blade would be a little easier to work with :-)
Oh, sorry. I meant for cutting it the templates. I hate trying to make straight cuts with my jigsaw 😀
I would love a video on fairing compound Vs automotive filler. Bondo ect. I don’t understand why you couldn’t use automotive filler for marine application.
Mr Peters... Fiberglass resin (polyester) has a moisture content. “Bondo” absorbs this moisture & swells. Also, any deep scratch through the primer allows water direct access. Steel has no moisture, so bondo is ok on car body work... unless you scratch through the paint!
Well ,one thing I know, bondo is polyester based, so that's one reason you don't use it over epoxy.
why couldn't you just fill the area on the coosa if you over cut some place like you did on the template ?
Quarter of an inch is 6.35 mm, so eighth of an inch is tiny bit more than 3 mm 😁
Nice... Lmao though "Brainfart" I say that... And also have them from time to time myself
9:54 Too late for you now, but maybe someone else will benefit in the future... If you'd simply slid your hinged lid out of the frame a bit, you'd have two straight, tight cuts to make on either side, then at the corners and along the back, you'd have plenty of room for error. For those straight sides, clamp down a straight edge for the saw's foot to follow and you'd be able to make the cut between the lines easy.
Skookum as frig
I wonder if, for cutting ONLY around the corners, it would have been helpful to modify a blade by grinding the back edge so that the blade is "shorter" (in the direction of cutting) so that is is more like a coping saw blade? For the straight cuts, a regular, unmodified, blade could be used.
what material is what you work for? 😏
Gio Sarago day that again ????
M Watkins sorry but I don't understand your question 😣
Gio Sarago you asked What material is what you work for? I was wondering what that means?? It doesn’t make sense
M Watkins my question is: what material is used in the video? I refer to the panels... sorry but I use a translator 😔
Gio Sarago I know what you mean. When I said day that again. What I meant to say was Say that again!! Take care and have a great day 👍👍
Cutting that ply with the table saw or band saw with the fence would have saved you a ton of time sanding to make it straight...just sayin'
That's presuming that the opposing sides are parallel which they are not ;-)
@@boatworkstoday The width of the frame is different on both sides, but they're parallel. Each side is 90 degrees from the back cut, hence parallel. Just need to move the fence. I'm a woodworker, not a boat builder, but that could easily been cut straight on a table saw or band saw with a fence, then the corners with a jig saw with a scroll blade..
holesaw for radius.. 2 cents
Why try cut a straight cut with a jigsaw of all things? Would have been far easier and more accurate to use a table saw for the straight cuts.
If a jigsaw had to be used then use a straight edge guide.
Also wouldnt it have been better to laminate the coosa first and then cut?
Not trying to critcise here, but others will be trying to do what you have done, and simple things like that could prevent heartache later.
Speed up!
Little reference to AVE 😊
You make a lot of hatch lids and other panel type items... That being said, it confuses me to see you not using vacuum bagging especially for the Coosa board.