How to Build a Propane Forge Burrner
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- Опубліковано 6 лис 2015
- Follow-up video to this build making the burner more adjustable: • Propane Forge Burner F...
In this video I build a DIY propane forge burner from scratch using parts from the hardware store. The only parts that might be hard to get is the propane regulator. Get propane into the torch between 5-20 psi, the burner should work fine. I am using an adjustable regulator but a set pressure one around 8-10 psi will work as well.
Warning working with propane can be dangerous, attempt this at your own risk. I accept no responsibility if you injure or damage any property.
The Parts:
WATTS brand pipe parts from Home Depot
Brass Pipe Nipple 1/2" MIP x 4" A-865
Brass Pipe Coupling 1/2" FIP LFA-810
Brass Pipe Cap 1/8" FIP A-708
Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8" MIP x 2" A-717
Brass 1/2" Flare x 1/2" MIP Union A-277
Brass Pipe Hex Busing 1/4" MIP x 1/8 FIP A-738
Brass Pipe Coupling 1/4" FIP A-732
Low Pressure Propane Quick Release Plug 1/4" MIP
Low Pressure Propane Quick Connect Socket with Ball Valve
1-15 psi Adjustable Propane Regulator
Pipe Tipe or Pipe Thread Sealant
Sheet Metal
Self Tapping Screws
Common Drill bits including but not limited to:
1/4" Drill Bit
1/32" Drill Bit (or smaller depending on how large you want the flame) - Навчання та стиль
Man that thing is burning sweet huh. God damn I'm gonna make me 1 to treat some bamboo. Take care bro
Good info, thanks for sharing!
I've totally done the q-tip flux thing!
A small metal lathe would be a great addition to your shop,
Very nice video. I need to make myself one of those. I've been using the harbor freight weed burner in my forge and it works fine i just need to put it very far away to get the optimal heat in the forge. Thanks for sharing this I'll try it out in the future!
how far into the forge is it placed?
My burner is as "accurate" of a flame and is more orange than blue flame. Can someone help me(it may be my flare isn't actually expanded it's just a 3" pipe)
Whats the make and model of that regulator..
Could I use this design to make a foundry and just shove the nozzle in the hole in the wall? And how much gas do you go through?
Sean
I try to do this but i dont see jet blue flame i only see a little bit blue with a lot of orange flame. Would it make a difference if i have a nozzle flare? The orifice hole is really tiny and on the pilot holes started with 1/4 and when higher to 1/2 to see if the flame was blue with the roar and force that you have and it didnt make a difference. Not sure if you have any advice.
Robb Me you’re getting an oxygen rich flame. Blue is neutral which means equal parts. Try a larger hole for the propane. If that doesn’t work you may have to use a higher pressure. Make sure your regulator is rated to it
Robb Me ,you have to put a screen in the end of the flare, it stabilizes the flame
I've used a few burners in the past, and none have made the flare glow, did you find this to be a problem? or was it all ok in the long run
Lewis
+Lewis Price I've used another burner like this in a forge and have had no issues with the nozzle being red hot. The pipe body is still cool to the touch.
ah ok, and great video by the way, thanks for making it so easy to follow, I'm making my own and trying to keep it as cheap as i can, gotta build three of them
+Lewis Price Thanks! I think this is fairly cheap, but if you want to make it even cheaper you could just by pass the union and drill a hole in a cap and solder the nozzle tube in it. I've tried it and it works, just harder to line up the orifice hole. I mention it in the video.
Don't ever use galvanized pipe for this!!
The Mad Smith my first thought as well. Zinc poisoning waiting to happen.
Galvanized steel must reach a temp of around 700°F to give off Zinc oxide fumes and a propane burner built correctly will only get hot at the burner end so, it's only really important to not use galvanized pipe fittings on the main burner tube (just in case) or flare.
Can I ask what the reason or maybe how did you know it needed to be longer ?
The pipe and other component were getting too hot. Also the other one was brass which conduct heat, making it hotter.
Longer steel pipe makes the heat from the flame not go too close of the inlet.
I couldn't find a 1/32 bit at my local home Depot but I did find 1/16 I know it's twice the the size of your hole but how might it run and what may I have to do to get it to run nicely like urs
+kuter100 It will either need more air or less pressure from the regulator, but that's just an assumption. Try ordering from ebay for small drill bits from china might take a few weeks to get but until then you can mess with the 1/16
+kuter100 I tried that, because I didn't have the smaller bit. The torch worked, but the flame just meandered out the end and wouldn't blast out like a jet. By doubling the diameter of the hole, you half the pressure of the gas coming out of the hole. So it won't serve the intended purpose.
Doubling the diameter of a hole more than doubles the size of the hole. Because area = pi x (r squared), the area increases according to the square of the radius. The increase, in other words, is exponential, not simply additive. Hmm, high-school geometry finally comes in handy.
Goto harbor freight, they sell mini drill bits. They also sell a pin vise, you can use with your drill to hold the tiny bit.
Like camera F-stops... double the diameter and you get 1.4, 1.8, 2.0, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11 ....it gets out of hand.
What was your total cost on all the parts?
Ambient Art Photography about $30
Is the pressure regulator totally needed?
yes
You won't get a consistent mix, since the fuel goes up way way up but the carburetion from the holes can't keep up = crap mix = lots of sulfur in your mix, and not optimal or CONSISTENT heat production.....no go!
warning : if that flare should collapse there could be an explosion I suggest something a little thicker . But other than that it was a good video .
Can you post the measures of every part? the thing is that it's easier for me....I don't know.
Hope this helps.
The parts and supplies:
WATTS brand pipe parts from Home Depot:
Steel Pipe Nipple(s) or Pipe 1/2" MIP (at least 10" long)
Brass Pipe Coupling 1/2" FIP LFA-810
Brass Pipe Cap 1/8" FIP A-708
Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8" MIP x 2" A-717
Brass 1/2" Flare x 1/2" MIP Union A-277
Brass Pipe Hex Busing 1/4" MIP x 1/8 FIP A-738
Brass Pipe Coupling 1/4" FIP A-732
Other parts:
Low Pressure Propane Quick Release Plug 1/4" MIP
Low Pressure Propane Quick Connect Socket with Ball Valve
1-15 psi Adjustable Propane Regulator
Pipe Tipe or Pipe Thread Sealant
Sheet Metal
Self Tapping Screws
Common Drill bits including but not limited to:
1/4" Drill Bit
1/32" Drill Bit (or smaller depending on how large you want the flame)
Tools:
Drill
Center Punch
Adjustable Wrenches
Plumbing Solder and Flux
Blow torch
Andrew, you said, "Important: Don't use the white stuff" (Teflon tape), and then you used white Teflon tape. What gives?
If your looking for high BTU burner, a vapor burner will not work, you need a liquid burner and a dip tube a 3 inch long by 2inch dia burner will produce 2 million BTU
garden torch ???? Cheap and engineered for safety .
Do some research,if you really need high heat fast, you need a liquid propane burner, they are available, I use to build them for a equipment company to use on asphalt equipment
If you can handle a tiny little bit of welding (or get someone to) I made super simple burner with very few parts you can find here....ua-cam.com/video/TBDYFPiry6M/v-deo.html
Please anyone watching dont use GALVANIZED STEEL for this project. even if u think you have removed the zinc. U have not. U will live to regret this choice my friend. Just wait and get the brass.
Bro do not breath that shit in what ever you do. Galvanized is all bad. Great torch bad choice for materials. Brass only