Finally got a chance to build this burner and it's pretty amazing. Ended up with a .025 welding tip on the end and it puts out a pretty good flame. I attached it to a 7gallon air tank and plan on putting another burner with it. Looking forward to testing it out when it's complete. Thanks for the build!
Thank you for this video, built it all in about two hours and runs beautifully. I found a 1” to 1 1/4” reducer at Home Depot and still burns beautifully. Can’t wait to start smithing very soon. Thank you again, have been trying to get into smithing for 6 years after having a place to do it for 2 and had to stop.
A grease fitting, remove spring and small steel ball works great for the "metering" orifice. My dad built a branding iron hear pot out of 6" black pipe.
Let me just say THANK YOU so much for this. I have been working on a 4 burner forge and the fuel delivery system has been anything but successful. But, when I saw you had the same basic jet design, I change my fuel delivery system to match yours and BAM!, all 4 jets are firing perfectly! Thanks for sharing your video.
I was asking this because I am looking at building a small gas kiln for pottery. The heat cannot be to intense at the beginning. Thank you for your demo.
I am so happy you mentioned that about that 1/16 hole sucking gas . I saw another place were they said to use an 1/8 hole ! mig tip is perfect got lots of them
Just earned another helpful subscriber, and here's a parts list for those who'd like to build it lol you're welcome lol Parts list for torch 1/2"-3-8" brass flare 1/2"-1/2" gas valve 1/2"m-1/2"f elbow (steel) 1/2"-1/8" brass reducer 1/8"-1/8" brass nipple 1/8" brass cap Steel parts 1" plug 1" Pipe T 1"-3/4" reducer 12"-3/4" pipe
+LazySmith yeah no problems, just got a free instructional lesson on what seems to be a pretty decent torch so gotta pay for my schooling somehow right? Lol gonna give this 1 a shot this weekend, the 1 I built previous isn't quite enough for my needs to melt copper in my foundry. Keep em coming bud. Nice vids. :)
I've ben searching for a comprehensive design that is fairly inexpensive and very effective gas jet. Yours is one of the best I have found, Your build is not scatter brained, as some have been. The approach and method are decent overall. Plus, a very effective jet with a 1/31 aperture (Wife gets me bits every Christmas, no matter what tools I ask for). The jet by itself is effective for a forge built from a standard size Propane tank. Our gas supply is a 100 pound tank. With the build you have here, with the 1/32, there is plenty of burn time, particularly if we shut off or minimize while at the anvils. The Jet is hot enough for crucible work, and standard steel and iron forging. We are considering a larger build, Cinder Block or fire brick, with perhaps two jets for larger work, But we'll see as we go. Thanks for this video, We are subscribing.
I did some looking, and at Menards, I got hold of a drill bit from Performax. It is a Menards brand, and is bit number #56. It is around 1/32 diameter, perhaps a titch smaller. May help in the next round of burner making, I will be testing it tomorrow
To use a mig tip (14T) you need to find the proper 1/8" nipple. There are 2 types. One has a smaller dia. Works great. I can't remember whether mine is .040 or .035, but they work with 11 psi of gas for 2 burners.
1st who cares if he smokes, it is his video, and no way suggests you need to smoke to build the project. I am glad you explained the need for a high pressure regulator, I would have tried one from a grill I have lying around. Nice non complicated instructions, I'm gonna build one now. OH, one thing, I see you are using it, but didn't say it, One needs to purchase yellow Teflon tape made for gas projects, do not use regular white Teflon tape for water - air pipes. Good Job!
The yellow tape really isn't necessary. Regular old teflon tape has been used on gas since it's creation. The different colors of tape is something that has just recently come about. I just use pipe dope, no tape, on 3/4" and smaller piping. Nice project. Good job, and entertaining video.
The yellow Teflon tape has more Teflon in it. I've heard that it was specifically manufactured for gas, but I don't really know that. I suppose anyone could look it up though.
I care that he smokes. I’m also a married man and smoker. Hope we both find the inspiration/motivation to quit before it costs those we care about. First video I’ve watched of him but I’d bet that hes also dealt with shit that made quitting smoking laughable. Hope everyone stays safe, healthy and far away from the sickness and hate america is plagued with.
The second time you lit that my instant response was "F'ING HELL!!!" That's not a burner it's a rocket motor! Nice build. I would be interested in seeing how well a .025 or .035 mig tip would tame that monster if you tapped it into that brass cap.
I'm having issues with the end where the brass flare is supposed to hook up to a hose. The regulator and hose that I got at home depot seems like a size between 3/8 and 1/2. The regulator end screws on fine to a bbq grill style propane bottle (here they have Rhino name but I assume they have many names for the same basic size of bottle. I'm assuming that this would not be a good fit for a blue Bernzomatic bottle with the special adapter connection (needle). I'm only half smart so I'm running into a wall on this part. What was the name of the regulator you found on ebay and what size bottle do you connect to?
if you want to go the Mig tip route, the Threads on Lincoln Electric tips is 1/4-20 others might be that or 1/4-28. Lowes has a Bit and tap set (Single Tap with the appropriate drill bit) for around $6, you can always turn the Tap with an adjustable wrench if needs be. One thing, Pipe Dope (Which you can get at wherever you get your pipe nipples, and reducers from) is a MUCH better idea than Teflon Tape, much more positive Seal because after all, Leaks are Bad Mmmmkay??
Awsome! thanks for the Info! Actually I found an even easyer route. Dremmel has drill bits that pretty common at lowes and home depot that has a 1/32" bit. much better size. So no need for the mig tip. As for the tape, the reason I chose it for this vid is because if you don't get the right dope, it can be flammible. Don't want any unexpected fires for those that don't know. But again thanks for the awesome post!
Like the video but seems to be impossible finding the 3/4 x 1" bushing and the 1x1 1/2 female reducer. What plumbing supply company did you find them on? They don't seem to exist in any store or website anywhere in the Midwest. Thanks
I found that I could substitute all the brass piping, the propane hose, and the gas valve, by using a harbor freight weed burner. I got one on amazon for $30. The rest was just black pipe fittings from Lowe’s
Turner Forage your video inspired me to do this I loved your video but the bad thing was it costed me $133 sadly even though I'm just a kid I managed to make it and the amazing part is it got over 2145 degrees fareheight I liked and subscribed please make more videos about this topic and please make a foundry video using this torch thank you for making this video bye😀👍
Lol I do sell torches as well. They are not the ones in this video but they are made to be affordable check them out! www.etsy.com/listing/225474420/high-heat-propane-torch
LazySmith the one you sell looks real good. were you able to make a smaller hole than the 1/16 bit on the torch you sell? my forge body just isn't very big, so I don't need a gas hog so to speak. lol. it would only need a 1/32 hole I think. which home depot has in the Dremel tools section, as I found out. I am very interested in getting one. Buying one would certainly save me the time and allow me to focus on the body more.
Just a recommendation and question, I followed your list of parts as a shopping list, but ran into an oversight on the elbow. I may be the only one, but I just bought a elbow, not realizing that it had to have a male threaded end on it lol so now I have to go back tomorrow and snag a male to male 1/2" to join them. Also, as you mentioned, I didnt find a 1" to 1.5" flare end but did find a 1" to 1.25" flare end - if I opened it up to get rid of the threads like you did, do you think that might suffice?
I cant remember if you specified, but I built your burner, and where about do you want your gas nozzle tip in relation to your air hole for maximum efficiency. I can kind of see from the assembly in the video, but is the nozzle just past the hole? or like an inch past it?
I have .030 & .035 MIG tips,do you think they would work?Also,since I have a lathe,do you think it would be better to taper the end of the last reducer instead of just a straight grind removing the threads?Lastly,why does the 1" pipe need to be 12" long?All the burners I see on YT seem to make them long.Is it necessary for fuel/air mixing or something?It just seems like they all really stick way up in the air.Thanks for sharing!
Bowtie41 I tried the.35 welding tip and it was way too much a .25 is perfect and you need at least a 10 to 12” Venturi tube to properly mix the fuel and air
You can get mini-bits for cleaning oxyacetylene cutting tips...they come in a set...or look for jewelers drill bit set. cheap...neat thing to have around. Good.
I appreciate the stuff on the torch...but not as massive as your. But thanks for the layout. Jeweler also have mini tap and sets...I think that is pretty Cool too. Liked your opening to this episode too.
Sir: I built your burner, just as you instructed, with a few changes. 1. the 3/4" pipe is only 10" long due to anything longer being unavailable. 2.The flair on the end is 3/4"X1 1/4" due to 3/4" X 1 1/2" being unavailable. 3. The 1/8" brass nipple is 4" long since I did not see anything that indicated how long it should be.The orifice is 1/16 inch. The flame i get is nothing like the video. A lazy yellow flame until i give it full air. then a little blue is visible but nothing like what Ive seen on here. The variable regulator is cranked wide open. Might you be able to offer some advice on this? Thanks. Dan
+wldmit Hi Dan, wow that was allot of change from the original design. I would suggest possibly getting a 7" nipple for the body and you are going to need bigger intake. Believe it or not it makes a huge difference. Third what psi does your regulator go to. If it's above 20 psi I would double check to see that nothing was obstructing the delivery orriface. Please let me know if this helps!
Great build, well explained and no fancy power tools or a lathe needed. Thank you wery much. Do you think it would be worth trying to attach some kind of air-supply to the air intake. A hose connected to a fan or to the "blow-side" (i dont know the english word) on an industrial vacuum cleaner? Is this going to work as a forced air burner? This would (in theory) solve the problem with the orange and cold flame in the forge that someone mentioned eralier?
Yes, I need to figure out something to control the air stream with - of course. I want to try and build a little forge for simple black smith stuff, and this approach is exactly what i was lookning for. Excellent! Thank you for replying, and please make more tutorials like this. Interesting to watch and very helpful.
i bought a fan rheostat for controlling my air mattress inflator fan that i have on my coal forge. just plugs inline for the fan and works great. low amperage and works great to control air flow. BTW GREAT VIDEO and concept
i bought a fan rheostat for controlling my air mattress inflator fan that i have on my coal forge. just plugs inline for the fan and works great. low amperage and works great to control air flow. BTW GREAT VIDEO and concept. its a slide rheostat, got it at lowes for about $16
Be aware that most fan motors do not like being run at lower speeds. They tend to run warmer at slow speeds due to reduced air flow. This usually reduces their life span drastically. It is best to run them at full speed and regulate the air flow with a gate. Can't tell you how many I have gone thru due to this issue.
I followed the directions and building to a T. It blows blue until its inserted onto the forge then I get dragons breath. Is this caused by it blowing downward?
Nice! I'm gonna build this tomorrow. I'm curious though, I bought a 10PSI bayou regulator intended for frying turkeys at Lowes. And I read online (james riser propane fired forge blog) that 5-10PSI is "ideal". He even has a picture of slag steel melting which impressed me. But then I saw Grant Thompson recommend 30 PSI. Meanwhile Jame's forge looks hotter. Does the PSI really matter that much and do you think I'm good with 10PSI? Thanks!
Well I can start off by saying this torch is fat from ideal. this build was intended to just get people going. personally I would recommend the higher rated one. I would venture to guess that it would be able to do the same thing the 10psi rated one could do. The effect of a higher psi is it increases the velocity of the gas coming out. So more is being added to the air fule mixture creating hotter temperature.
+LazySmith Thanks man you were spot on. I picked up everything today and built the burner 90% like yours. Except I'm getting an all blue, feathered flame with no cone. More problematic is that the flame won't burn from the flare. It's combusting 6" (half way) in the burner tube itself. Even when the regulator is fully open. I still think the problem might be too big an orfice for too little pressure. I compared the 1/16" hole to my .025 MIG tips that I use for my oxyhydro torch. The hole is like half as big. And the oxyhydro gas comes out that torch less than 5 PSI but makes a very loud, distinct hissing noise at the tip (when not burning). The 1/16th on the propane burner barely makes any noise at all. What I'll do is tap out for the smaller MIG tip and see if that improves the velocity and "hiss". And if not I'll have to preorder the 40PSI from Lowes. Thanks again & I'll let you know how it goes!
+Robert Cece Nevermind! I tried one more time by disassembling the orfice then held it deeper into the pipe with my hand. So it was 1-2" ahead of the side vent hole. I was able to get the flame to burn on the flare but it was still all blue, fat and feathery. Then suddenly out of nowhere, maybe 20-30 seconds after the flare got hot the WHOLE FLAME "mutated" into something completely different. It shrunk by like half the size, the sound got much louder, it stopped feathering and burning upwards then there was a beautifully tight cone on the inside and outside. I also held some steel in front and it white yellow hot. So this thing is pumping serious heat. Apparently I just need to reposition the orfice deeper into the pipe. And I don't know why the flame changes like that. But it seems like when the flare gets hot it becomes some type of catalytic converter, the oxygen "wakes up" & suddenly does its job. Very weird but now I can start working on my forge! Thanks man.
it is possible to do it that way. However it's hard to get a good seal to provent gas leaking out. I have a much newer video with a better working torch. Take a look on my chanel.
I know that this is a rather old video... but I made this torch (It works great!), but for my setup a shorter pipe would be ideal, any recommendations on how short I can make it?
Hello, I built the torch like this in the video, but I do not get the strength of the flame. I want to know if by the type of gas I use or I lack air to the mixture? good job !!!
Pretty sure that will work. Bayou Classic 5HPR-40 48-Inch LPG Hose, High Pressure Adjustable Regulator www.amazon.com/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_quHgvb0W27HE7 That's the one I use.
the plug is just a standard black steel pipe fitting. trying to get the nipple through can be a bit of a challenge. Some times taking your drill bit and pushing it against the sides to make the hole a touch wider will work. Or sanding down the small nipple so it's thinner could help.
I am having the same problem... I can not get the 1/8 nipple through the 3/8” hole in the 1” cap. Have you you heard of some other clever ways of getting it into the cap?
How hot can this torch get? I am ignorant to propane forges, and I am wanting to build one on that can do simple forging, or be able to forge weld in. I would appreciate a response. Nice video.
it will get hot enough to forge weld if built correctly. however it by no means should be a permanent solution. It's intended to just get people with basic tools going. hope it works for your needs! be careful.
yup I this one off amazon Bayou Classic 5HPR-40 48-Inch LPG Hose, High Pressure Adjustable Regulator www.amazon.com/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ujNLxbJ5DTXNE
barbque side of the road always works well for parts. If you take a drive around the night before garbage day you are bound to find one. if not, wait till the next garbage day, or just go to the website for waste management in your region and find out where the garbage day is today, and tomorrow, and the next, till you find ur bbq! wont take long, you will find dozens.
Paula L the pressure is directly dictated by your delivery orifice size. Typically I run mine between 3 to 10 psi. The bigger the orifice size the less pressure you should need.
blakkkatt9 your gas jet could be an .025 mig tip threaded in the cap and you will interchange size tips, was my burners seeeming to need more air and and with introducing compressed air figured that was my same problem
Quick question. I made a similar burner and it burns with a good blue flame. When I put it inside my forge the flame turns orange and looses heat. I am not sure what the issue is. Any thoughts???
Mark Weber that means you need alot more oxygen in it.. its being smoothered a blue flame is burning completely full of oxygen and an orange flame is only a partial burn and unlike a blue flame will deposit the unburnt fuel as soot
Bit late but for anyone else here having the same problem you need more air flow into the burner. Forced air would work or i think either decrease the size of the hole the gas leaves through or need more pressure from your gas bottle. It's all to do with the air mix.
Same issue. I opened up the T joint with loads more air but it will not even form a jet inside the forge and just seems to be dumping propane in. When I take a hair dryer and blow it into the chamber it will show the blue jet.
+Jan Roodbol well not necessarily. with any torch you need to find the right balance of gas to oxygen for it to ignite correctly. too little and it won't lite. too much and you have way to much flame and it won't get hot enough.
Not to mention, what you said is correct, but anytime you 'push' a gas or liquid through a smaller orifice, the speed of the gas or liquid is increased exponentially, which helps to drag in more air through the venturi = better combustion & higher temps..
I happen to have 0.7mm drill bit which is (0.027") on the drill bit chart it's between #70 and 71. (This is why I love metric, there is no fraction or drill bit # charts nonsense). First burner I made, had problem getting nice blue flame and if I increased pressure the flame would go out. I suspected it needed flare, I made a 2nd burner with the flare but a different design, used the same drill bit, added a flare - success! The flame would still go out on full blast, but in the furnace should be fine. I am curious now how a bigger hole will effect it. I made it that my tip screws in like a MIG tip.
+Dima Prok a bigger tip would prevent it it from going out. it will also introduce more fule into the mix helping the fire get hotter provided you have a sufficient oxygen mix.
Just want to report it worked out real well as far as staying lit once in the foundry burning and keeping nice blue flame in the vortex. I did end up connecting flare inside, I made flare out of DOM tubing/pipe and it's in pretty rough shape now from burning about an hour or 2. But I was super excited as this was my first successful aluminum melt. Now I just need to build a better crucible out of 3.5" pipe I bought, it's 1/4" thick.
Is that for sure a 1/8-1/8 nipple and cap.? What's the length? Looks like 3" I've got it all, but that part eludes me. Ahh the elusive nipple lol 2 hd stores so far and plumbing store and not 1 of them had that. The hunt continues
So I built the torch tonight and I pretty much likin it.Need to put the air vent mixer on it yet and need a regulator yet but I had a .025 mig tip on her and gonna try a .035 tip and see but it got a hunk of steel red hot in the open air. I'll be putting a video up on my channel soon of it. Thanks for the help with this. I'm diggin it bro!
+Turner Forge Have you ever cleaned a gun barrel from copper fouling? The product has ammonia in it. It won't dissolve a huge fitting but it might corrode it. The brass is alloy mixed mostly from copper.
I plan to buy this gas regulator www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=pd_sbs_196_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ESFTVKZX97X3ZBS9Z95X
Finally got a chance to build this burner and it's pretty amazing. Ended up with a .025 welding tip on the end and it puts out a pretty good flame. I attached it to a 7gallon air tank and plan on putting another burner with it. Looking forward to testing it out when it's complete. Thanks for the build!
Thank you for this video, built it all in about two hours and runs beautifully. I found a 1” to 1 1/4” reducer at Home Depot and still burns beautifully. Can’t wait to start smithing very soon. Thank you again, have been trying to get into smithing for 6 years after having a place to do it for 2 and had to stop.
RVAx Havoc happy I could help!
Fantastic , thank'you this has given me the confidence to have a go at making one and you made it simple with no threading etc .
A grease fitting, remove spring and small steel ball works great for the "metering" orifice.
My dad built a branding iron hear pot out of 6" black pipe.
Let me just say THANK YOU so much for this. I have been working on a 4 burner forge and the fuel delivery system has been anything but successful. But, when I saw you had the same basic jet design, I change my fuel delivery system to match yours and BAM!, all 4 jets are firing perfectly! Thanks for sharing your video.
Really happy this helped you!
I was asking this because I am looking at building a small gas kiln for pottery. The heat cannot be to intense at the beginning.
Thank you for your demo.
I am so happy you mentioned that about that 1/16 hole sucking gas . I saw another place were they said to use an 1/8 hole ! mig tip is perfect got lots of them
I have watched a ton of these propane torch videos. Your is the easiest and most straight forward. You have a new subscriber.
Lol Thanks! maybe I should do another vid on these things there are soo many styles. people seem to like them!
Its official. After watching lots of builds yours is the best based on ease and the end result!
Just earned another helpful subscriber, and here's a parts list for those who'd like to build it lol you're welcome lol
Parts list for torch
1/2"-3-8" brass flare
1/2"-1/2" gas valve
1/2"m-1/2"f elbow (steel)
1/2"-1/8" brass reducer
1/8"-1/8" brass nipple
1/8" brass cap
Steel parts
1" plug
1" Pipe T
1"-3/4" reducer
12"-3/4" pipe
hey thanks man!
+LazySmith yeah no problems, just got a free instructional lesson on what seems to be a pretty decent torch so gotta pay for my schooling somehow right? Lol gonna give this 1 a shot this weekend, the 1 I built previous isn't quite enough for my needs to melt copper in my foundry. Keep em coming bud. Nice vids. :)
+Zombie Scrapper well it should do the trick. let me know how it works out.
+Zombie ScrapperThank you my friend you've been most helpful
I've ben searching for a comprehensive design that is fairly inexpensive and very effective gas jet. Yours is one of the best I have found, Your build is not scatter brained, as some have been. The approach and method are decent overall.
Plus, a very effective jet with a 1/31 aperture (Wife gets me bits every Christmas, no matter what tools I ask for). The jet by itself is effective for a forge built from a standard size Propane tank.
Our gas supply is a 100 pound tank. With the build you have here, with the 1/32, there is plenty of burn time, particularly if we shut off or minimize while at the anvils. The Jet is hot enough for crucible work, and standard steel and iron forging.
We are considering a larger build, Cinder Block or fire brick, with perhaps two jets for larger work, But we'll see as we go.
Thanks for this video, We are subscribing.
T Killey thank you very much for the complement! I am happy you like the build
I did some looking, and at Menards, I got hold of a drill bit from Performax.
It is a Menards brand, and is bit number #56. It is around 1/32 diameter, perhaps a titch smaller.
May help in the next round of burner making, I will be testing it tomorrow
T Killey please let me know how it turns out!
To use a mig tip (14T) you need to find the proper 1/8" nipple. There are 2 types. One has a smaller dia. Works great. I can't remember whether mine is .040 or .035, but they work with 11 psi of gas for 2 burners.
Great build!!! Since it is exactly one year later HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
has it been that long already? man how time flys! I really should do an improved version of this vid.
Just test fired my burner built with your plan. Works great! Thanks for the great video!
That's awsome! I'm happy you like it!
Thank you so much for sharing this video I have been looking a cheap way to make a propane burner for a homemade forge and this has been so helpful!
NCfirefighter527 not a problem! I'm happy you like it!
1st who cares if he smokes, it is his video, and no way suggests you need to smoke to build the project. I am glad you explained the need for a high pressure regulator, I would have tried one from a grill I have lying around. Nice non complicated instructions, I'm gonna build one now. OH, one thing, I see you are using it, but didn't say it, One needs to purchase yellow Teflon tape made for gas projects, do not use regular white Teflon tape for water - air pipes. Good Job!
Tom Chrissy awsome comment! thank you very much!
The yellow tape really isn't necessary. Regular old teflon tape has been used on gas since it's creation. The different colors of tape is something that has just recently come about. I just use pipe dope, no tape, on 3/4" and smaller piping. Nice project. Good job, and entertaining video.
The yellow Teflon tape has more Teflon in it. I've heard that it was specifically manufactured for gas, but I don't really know that. I suppose anyone could look it up though.
I care that he smokes. I’m also a married man and smoker. Hope we both find the inspiration/motivation to quit before it costs those we care about. First video I’ve watched of him but I’d bet that hes also dealt with shit that made quitting smoking laughable.
Hope everyone stays safe, healthy and far away from the sickness and hate america is plagued with.
Nice build
Love it thanks, Im going to make a similar torch for my forge but this is great background
The second time you lit that my instant response was "F'ING HELL!!!" That's not a burner it's a rocket motor! Nice build. I would be interested in seeing how well a .025 or .035 mig tip would tame that monster if you tapped it into that brass cap.
I should never make a comment before I get to the end of the video. That is a nice design and a great flame.
been looking for an easy burner build. think I'll give yours a try.
I'm having issues with the end where the brass flare is supposed to hook up to a hose. The regulator and hose that I got at home depot seems like a size between 3/8 and 1/2. The regulator end screws on fine to a bbq grill style propane bottle (here they have Rhino name but I assume they have many names for the same basic size of bottle. I'm assuming that this would not be a good fit for a blue Bernzomatic bottle with the special adapter connection (needle). I'm only half smart so I'm running into a wall on this part. What was the name of the regulator you found on ebay and what size bottle do you connect to?
if you want to go the Mig tip route, the Threads on Lincoln Electric tips is 1/4-20 others might be that or 1/4-28. Lowes has a Bit and tap set (Single Tap with the appropriate drill bit) for around $6, you can always turn the Tap with an adjustable wrench if needs be. One thing, Pipe Dope (Which you can get at wherever you get your pipe nipples, and reducers from) is a MUCH better idea than Teflon Tape, much more positive Seal because after all, Leaks are Bad Mmmmkay??
Awsome! thanks for the Info! Actually I found an even easyer route. Dremmel has drill bits that pretty common at lowes and home depot that has a 1/32" bit. much better size. So no need for the mig tip. As for the tape, the reason I chose it for this vid is because if you don't get the right dope, it can be flammible. Don't want any unexpected fires for those that don't know. But again thanks for the awesome post!
That's a kickass burner bro , great vid .
Like the video but seems to be impossible finding the 3/4 x 1" bushing and the 1x1 1/2 female reducer. What plumbing supply company did you find them on? They don't seem to exist in any store or website anywhere in the Midwest. Thanks
Very informative. Very nice build.
I found that I could substitute all the brass piping, the propane hose, and the gas valve, by using a harbor freight weed burner. I got one on amazon for $30. The rest was just black pipe fittings from Lowe’s
Josh Just Josh awsome! Thanks for sharing man!
Hey Josh I would love to see your build or if you could give me any pointers. I have the weed burner and I'm trying to replicate what you are doing
You didn’t even need the dampener.....
Great job!
Turner Forage your video inspired me to do this I loved your video but the bad thing was it costed me $133 sadly even though I'm just a kid I managed to make it and the amazing part is it got over 2145 degrees fareheight I liked and subscribed please make more videos about this topic and please make a foundry video using this torch thank you for making this video bye😀👍
since I can't afford a fancy gas forge. this is what I was stuck on. thanks a bunch.
Lol I do sell torches as well. They are not the ones in this video but they are made to be affordable check them out!
www.etsy.com/listing/225474420/high-heat-propane-torch
LazySmith the one you sell looks real good. were you able to make a smaller hole than the 1/16 bit on the torch you sell? my forge body just isn't very big, so I don't need a gas hog so to speak. lol. it would only need a 1/32 hole I think. which home depot has in the Dremel tools section, as I found out. I am very interested in getting one. Buying one would certainly save me the time and allow me to focus on the body more.
doom832 yes I do use a smaller delivery orifice. Lol the other one was way overkill
sweet I just have the bbq propane tanks. so that's good to hear. I'll try to get it ordered no later than Monday.
doom832 no rush man just glad I could help! Oh and be extremely carful when cutting up those tanks!
I always wanted to know how many time to wrap the tape. Thanks. Now I know.
Just a recommendation and question, I followed your list of parts as a shopping list, but ran into an oversight on the elbow. I may be the only one, but I just bought a elbow, not realizing that it had to have a male threaded end on it lol so now I have to go back tomorrow and snag a male to male 1/2" to join them.
Also, as you mentioned, I didnt find a 1" to 1.5" flare end but did find a 1" to 1.25" flare end - if I opened it up to get rid of the threads like you did, do you think that might suffice?
It might. I can't say for sure. the elbow you are looking for is called a "street elbow"
Awesome, thanks for the info and quick reply. Love the simplicity of the build even for a rookie like me!
I cant remember if you specified, but I built your burner, and where about do you want your gas nozzle tip in relation to your air hole for maximum efficiency. I can kind of see from the assembly in the video, but is the nozzle just past the hole? or like an inch past it?
I would say start at about 2/3 in and inch it forward to tune it.
I have .030 & .035 MIG tips,do you think they would work?Also,since I have a lathe,do you think it would be better to taper the end of the last reducer instead of just a straight grind removing the threads?Lastly,why does the 1" pipe need to be 12" long?All the burners I see on YT seem to make them long.Is it necessary for fuel/air mixing or something?It just seems like they all really stick way up in the air.Thanks for sharing!
Bowtie41 I tried the.35 welding tip and it was way too much a .25 is perfect and you need at least a 10 to 12” Venturi tube to properly mix the fuel and air
Good show, thanks for sharing!
nice build ... i think im gonna do just that
fyi if you want a smaller jet hole you can look at the dremel bits at homedepot they are a ton smaller
ya.... found that one out after the vid. Didn't click at the time. But thanks man!
You can get mini-bits for cleaning oxyacetylene cutting tips...they come in a set...or look for jewelers drill bit set. cheap...neat thing to have around. Good.
Thank you Freeman!
I appreciate the stuff on the torch...but not as massive as your. But thanks for the layout.
Jeweler also have mini tap and sets...I think that is pretty Cool too. Liked your opening to this episode too.
Sir: I built your burner, just as you instructed, with a few changes. 1. the 3/4" pipe is only 10" long due to anything longer being unavailable. 2.The flair on the end is 3/4"X1 1/4" due to 3/4" X 1 1/2" being unavailable. 3. The 1/8" brass nipple is 4" long since I did not see anything that indicated how long it should be.The orifice is 1/16 inch. The flame i get is nothing like the video. A lazy yellow flame until i give it full air. then a little blue is visible but nothing like what Ive seen on here. The variable regulator is cranked wide open. Might you be able to offer some advice on this? Thanks. Dan
+wldmit Hi Dan, wow that was allot of change from the original design. I would suggest possibly getting a 7" nipple for the body and you are going to need bigger intake. Believe it or not it makes a huge difference. Third what psi does your regulator go to. If it's above 20 psi I would double check to see that nothing was obstructing the delivery orriface. Please let me know if this helps!
think your orifice is too large.. 1/32" is about what a .030 mig tip is. also like turner forge said, make sure you have a high pressure regulator.
This is the best build I have found online. Can you forge weld with it?
Wow that is a big flame!
just earned a new subscriber! great video brother
thank you
1/32” drill is perfect
Are you still happy with this size?
Great build, well explained and no fancy power tools or a lathe needed. Thank you wery much. Do you think it would be worth trying to attach some kind of air-supply to the air intake. A hose connected to a fan or to the "blow-side" (i dont know the english word) on an industrial vacuum cleaner? Is this going to work as a forced air burner? This would (in theory) solve the problem with the orange and cold flame in the forge that someone mentioned eralier?
Niklas Sarri an air supply would work very well. You would just need to make sure you have some sort of control on the air supply to tune the torch.
Yes, I need to figure out something to control the air stream with - of course. I want to try and build a little forge for simple black smith stuff, and this approach is exactly what i was lookning for. Excellent! Thank you for replying, and please make more tutorials like this. Interesting to watch and very helpful.
i bought a fan rheostat for controlling my air mattress inflator fan that i have on my coal forge. just plugs inline for the fan and works great. low amperage and works great to control air flow. BTW GREAT VIDEO and concept
i bought a fan rheostat for controlling my air mattress inflator fan that i have on my coal forge. just plugs inline for the fan and works great. low amperage and works great to control air flow. BTW GREAT VIDEO and concept. its a slide rheostat, got it at lowes for about $16
Be aware that most fan motors do not like being run at lower speeds. They tend to run warmer at slow speeds due to reduced air flow. This usually reduces their life span drastically. It is best to run them at full speed and regulate the air flow with a gate. Can't tell you how many I have gone thru due to this issue.
I followed the directions and building to a T. It blows blue until its inserted onto the forge then I get dragons breath. Is this caused by it blowing downward?
Nice! I'm gonna build this tomorrow. I'm curious though, I bought a 10PSI bayou regulator intended for frying turkeys at Lowes. And I read online (james riser propane fired forge blog) that 5-10PSI is "ideal". He even has a picture of slag steel melting which impressed me. But then I saw Grant Thompson recommend 30 PSI. Meanwhile Jame's forge looks hotter. Does the PSI really matter that much and do you think I'm good with 10PSI? Thanks!
Well I can start off by saying this torch is fat from ideal. this build was intended to just get people going. personally I would recommend the higher rated one. I would venture to guess that it would be able to do the same thing the 10psi rated one could do. The effect of a higher psi is it increases the velocity of the gas coming out. So more is being added to the air fule mixture creating hotter temperature.
+LazySmith Thanks man you were spot on. I picked up everything today and built the burner 90% like yours. Except I'm getting an all blue, feathered flame with no cone. More problematic is that the flame won't burn from the flare. It's combusting 6" (half way) in the burner tube itself. Even when the regulator is fully open. I still think the problem might be too big an orfice for too little pressure. I compared the 1/16" hole to my .025 MIG tips that I use for my oxyhydro torch. The hole is like half as big. And the oxyhydro gas comes out that torch less than 5 PSI but makes a very loud, distinct hissing noise at the tip (when not burning). The 1/16th on the propane burner barely makes any noise at all.
What I'll do is tap out for the smaller MIG tip and see if that improves the velocity and "hiss". And if not I'll have to preorder the 40PSI from Lowes.
Thanks again & I'll let you know how it goes!
+Robert Cece awsome!! I'm glad I could help. I would suggest a .30 mig tip.
+Robert Cece Nevermind! I tried one more time by disassembling the orfice then held it deeper into the pipe with my hand. So it was 1-2" ahead of the side vent hole. I was able to get the flame to burn on the flare but it was still all blue, fat and feathery. Then suddenly out of nowhere, maybe 20-30 seconds after the flare got hot the WHOLE FLAME "mutated" into something completely different. It shrunk by like half the size, the sound got much louder, it stopped feathering and burning upwards then there was a beautifully tight cone on the inside and outside.
I also held some steel in front and it white yellow hot. So this thing is pumping serious heat. Apparently I just need to reposition the orfice deeper into the pipe. And I don't know why the flame changes like that. But it seems like when the flare gets hot it becomes some type of catalytic converter, the oxygen "wakes up" & suddenly does its job.
Very weird but now I can start working on my forge! Thanks man.
+Robert Cece very cool! I would venture to guess that maybe the torch body is too long? But glad to hear you will be banging and smashing soon!
maybe try drilling and tapping for the threads of a MIG welding tip? would give you a much smaller orifice, and they'd be interchangeable
it is possible to do it that way. However it's hard to get a good seal to provent gas leaking out. I have a much newer video with a better working torch. Take a look on my chanel.
I saw that immediately after posting. I like that design a lot more.
+Vash Jaerkora lol ya this was an old video. it was ment for a temporary setup.
I know that this is a rather old video... but I made this torch (It works great!), but for my setup a shorter pipe would be ideal, any recommendations on how short I can make it?
ForgeSmith I would recommend 7"
Great, thank you very much!
By using forced air with in the torch or not, will that effect fuel consumption and how?
Hello, I built the torch like this in the video, but I do not get the strength of the flame. I want to know if by the type of gas I use or I lack air to the mixture?
good job !!!
caradepatinesa what psi are you running? It might be your regulator
The working pressure of the bottle is 250 psi, what is the working pressure that you use?
caradepatinesa I have an adjustable regulator that i run at about 10psi
Nice build.. I wanted to know if a 30 psi regulator enough for your torch or should I get a 60 psi regulator
Pretty sure that will work.
Bayou Classic 5HPR-40 48-Inch LPG Hose, High Pressure Adjustable Regulator www.amazon.com/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_quHgvb0W27HE7
That's the one I use.
And a 6 pm.of angry orchard spirits, lol
nice build , but a lot of the brass can be found in black pipe also , will it be ok to use them ?
ezramel should be fine
What in the world is your 1" plug made of? I think I made a mistake by buying brass, and it's absolutely impossible to get the nipple through it.
the plug is just a standard black steel pipe fitting. trying to get the nipple through can be a bit of a challenge. Some times taking your drill bit and pushing it against the sides to make the hole a touch wider will work. Or sanding down the small nipple so it's thinner could help.
I am having the same problem... I can not get the 1/8 nipple through the 3/8” hole in the 1” cap. Have you you heard of some other clever ways of getting it into the cap?
How hot can this torch get? I am ignorant to propane forges, and I am wanting to build one on that can do simple forging, or be able to forge weld in. I would appreciate a response. Nice video.
it will get hot enough to forge weld if built correctly. however it by no means should be a permanent solution. It's intended to just get people with basic tools going. hope it works for your needs! be careful.
Go to your local heat/ cooling contractor shop and see if you can get the orifices out of a junk furnace.
Just wanted to drop a quick line, I made it, it's good and it's a great design...
blakkkatt9 awsome! I'm really happy it worked out for you!
Thanks for making this video!
On the end of the torch is it ok to go from 3/4 to 1 1/2? That's all I could find.
for the flare where the flame comes out? it will work but it will be big
Hi, do you have to have an adjustable regulator as I cannot seem to get a decent flame off my standard one.?
Cheers
yup I this one off amazon
Bayou Classic 5HPR-40 48-Inch LPG Hose, High Pressure Adjustable Regulator www.amazon.com/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ujNLxbJ5DTXNE
barbque side of the road always works well for parts. If you take a drive around the night before garbage day you are bound to find one. if not, wait till the next garbage day, or just go to the website for waste management in your region and find out where the garbage day is today, and tomorrow, and the next, till you find ur bbq! wont take long, you will find dozens.
+localbroadcast my experience in the past is that a regular bbq regulator won't be sufficient. A 0-20psi adjustable is more ideal.
What pressure should be used with this torch, the max we can get is around 15 psi.
Paula L the pressure is directly dictated by your delivery orifice size. Typically I run mine between 3 to 10 psi. The bigger the orifice size the less pressure you should need.
Do you need the reducer at the end and why?
mig tips are threaded 1/4 28 TPI
Just in passing. Can one adjust the flame so that it is less intense at the beginning. Like a flame that just licks up?
I suppose you could by reducing the pressure.
or choking off the air supply
hi, i am thinking of building a small forge to cast copper. is this design good for melting coper? i.e. does it reach temperatures of 1100ºc?
Toni Mercieca easily
so will a smaller hole in the brass yield the same power in flame? will it help save gas?
the flame will be smaller but more controlled and properly balanced. It also will save a bunch on gas.
First of all, great video! Second, how did you get the 1/8 nipple through the 3/8 inch hole in the cap? It doesn’t fit.
Wesley Wernimont I've come to learn that not all pipe is created equal. You may have to sand it down a bit.
I fixed it.... just needed a bigger hammer!
Wesley Wernimont Hahaha! I've said that many times myself!
Could you reply to this with a parts list for the burner assembly? Tried to jot it down during the video but you spoke a bit fast. Thanks in advance.
+Sal G UA-cam has a rewind function FYI.
The parts list is in the description
How long does a 20lb bottle last on one of these burners?
"Galvanized will kill ya"... Of all the research I've done, I have not heard this! I guess the vapors from the coating are toxic?
Yep, you breathe in enough and you're dead. look up metal fume fever. Nasty stuff.
Think this baby would work in a melting furnace or would be a bit overkill?
it would do just fine
Just so people know, the yellow gas threadtape is thicker than the white tape.
Ok I hooked up my forger when I connected the burner the flames are not blowing out as if it's not getting enough air any suggestions...
blakkkatt9 your gas jet could be an .025 mig tip threaded in the cap and you will interchange size tips, was my burners seeeming to need more air and and with introducing compressed air figured that was my same problem
will this burner take a 20 lb propane bottle forge to a forge welding heat?
yes and possibly beyond
What do you think of a needle valve just up stream of the venturi?
Abby Babby it would definitely give you better control of the flame.
can you make a video about how to make a forge with stuff that is easy to find?
Quick question. I made a similar burner and it burns with a good blue flame. When I put it inside my forge the flame turns orange and looses heat. I am not sure what the issue is. Any thoughts???
Mark Weber *loses
Mark Weber that means you need alot more oxygen in it.. its being smoothered a blue flame is burning completely full of oxygen and an orange flame is only a partial burn and unlike a blue flame will deposit the unburnt fuel as soot
Bit late but for anyone else here having the same problem you need more air flow into the burner. Forced air would work or i think either decrease the size of the hole the gas leaves through or need more pressure from your gas bottle. It's all to do with the air mix.
Same issue.
I opened up the T joint with loads more air but it will not even form a jet inside the forge and just seems to be dumping propane in.
When I take a hair dryer and blow it into the chamber it will show the blue jet.
If you don't have a drill press you should! Go buy one!
Hello all, just wondering if I can use a standard BBQ regulator on one of these or would the pressure be too low?
Ellis Waugh a standard bbq regulator would not work you need one with higher pressure
Seems to me that Windex leak test would be a good deal easier if you did it before drilling the orifice.
Might be. you should try it out. let me know. ☺
Well, I did. It was. Oh, I had to remove the cap, drill it, and reinstall.
Thanks for the input! 🖒
Why do you want the hole for the gas to run trow so small ase possible? Great torch
You want the hole small so you can limit the amount of propane coming through the line. it really is a little bit that is needed.
Oke, the smaller the better, thanks for replier
+Jan Roodbol well not necessarily. with any torch you need to find the right balance of gas to oxygen for it to ignite correctly. too little and it won't lite. too much and you have way to much flame and it won't get hot enough.
Not to mention, what you said is correct, but anytime you 'push' a gas or liquid through a smaller orifice, the speed of the gas or liquid is increased exponentially, which helps to drag in more air through the venturi = better combustion & higher temps..
With this burner assembly is it possible to forge weld?
Should be able to
hi nice video I wanted to know how much is the tip you used to make the hole on the cap
exquisitealex as In price, or size?
size
exquisitealex I'm not 100% at the moment. I would have to re-watch the video to see.
ok ;)
thats a sweet anvil..... is that 4 1/2 or 5 inch leg vise?
anthony marasco it's a 5". thank you for the complement
I just built this but with a #57 drill bit for the hole, mine won't stay lit. And when I get it lit it's not a big flame like yours. any sugestions?
try bumping it up to a #60 I've been having good luck with it.
I happen to have 0.7mm drill bit which is (0.027") on the drill bit chart it's between #70 and 71. (This is why I love metric, there is no fraction or drill bit # charts nonsense). First burner I made, had problem getting nice blue flame and if I increased pressure the flame would go out. I suspected it needed flare, I made a 2nd burner with the flare but a different design, used the same drill bit, added a flare - success! The flame would still go out on full blast, but in the furnace should be fine. I am curious now how a bigger hole will effect it. I made it that my tip screws in like a MIG tip.
+Dima Prok a bigger tip would prevent it it from going out. it will also introduce more fule into the mix helping the fire get hotter provided you have a sufficient oxygen mix.
Just want to report it worked out real well as far as staying lit once in the foundry burning and keeping nice blue flame in the vortex. I did end up connecting flare inside, I made flare out of DOM tubing/pipe and it's in pretty rough shape now from burning about an hour or 2. But I was super excited as this was my first successful aluminum melt. Now I just need to build a better crucible out of 3.5" pipe I bought, it's 1/4" thick.
+Dima Prok awsome! Glad it worked out for ya
Will you do a 1" pipe design...
what size and the hole in the cap? tnkx
awesome man, subbed
Excellent video. +1 subscriber sir!
Thank you sir! :)
Good video Good job Thanks
Yup! glad you like it!
happy new year brother
why did you use the 3/4 nipple instead of a 1" nipple
Quinn Sorensen I found 1" to be too wide
Is that for sure a 1/8-1/8 nipple and cap.? What's the length? Looks like 3" I've got it all, but that part eludes me. Ahh the elusive nipple lol 2 hd stores so far and plumbing store and not 1 of them had that. The hunt continues
Yup 1/8" to 1/8" brass nipple. I went to the home depot.
So I built the torch tonight and I pretty much likin it.Need to put the air vent mixer on it yet and need a regulator yet but I had a .025 mig tip on her and gonna try a .035 tip and see but it got a hunk of steel red hot in the open air. I'll be putting a video up on my channel soon of it. Thanks for the help with this. I'm diggin it bro!
+Zombie Scrapper glad it's working for ya man! send me a link when ya got it up!
How did you grind the threads down...
blakkkatt9 with a die grinder and file
cheers
Windex has ammonia, not good. Just use soapy water in the spray bottle.
really? What's not good about it?
+Turner Forge Have you ever cleaned a gun barrel from copper fouling? The product has ammonia in it. It won't dissolve a huge fitting but it might corrode it. The brass is alloy mixed mostly from copper.
+Dima Prok I've been using it for years. Haven't had any problems. But good to know thank you.
Salve a tutti sono italiano gentilmente qualcuno potrebbe aiutarmi a capire che misure sono dei vari componenti? grazie
Does it work if i use a 3/4 Tee instaed of the 1" one?
Giampiero Baggi i would go with the 1"
Hi What type gas regulator should buy?
Thanks
Elez Gamlieli you need an adjustable regulator that will go up to 20psi you usually you can find them on amazon for cheep.
I plan to buy this gas regulator
www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=pd_sbs_196_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ESFTVKZX97X3ZBS9Z95X
Elez Gamlieli yup that's the one I have
BASIC SET AS THIS WOULD WORK FOR A WEED / PEAR BURNER, FITTING LENGTHS WOULD DIFFER OF COURSE, REGARDS
mudah dan bagus sekali , saya mau bikin , tentunya sambil meroko juga