My dad and i watched this entire video today. We are rebuilding my grandpas 54 Ferguson TO30. Thank you for the shared knowledge. Throughly enjoyed this video.
Really an excellent instruction! I feel quite confident that both my neighbor and I will have successful restorations of the seals and brakes on his 9N and my 8N. This video is among the top 5% of all instructional videos I have ever watched for anticipating questions and offering tips, not to mention clarity of the various shots. Well done and thanks for the added 8N info in the 9N/2N video.
Thanks for all the great info Jason, I'm about to do the same to my 9n as soon as the the parts get here, I will use this video as reference, great job on explaining the step by step, and what not to do's, thanks again.
Very great series! Loved following along with it! She's gonna drive and run like brand new but even better! These old Fords are definitely an interesting piece! Thanks for sharing with us! And I definitely learned new things on this!
your video was awesome. Cleared up a number of questions I had. Have the brake assembly torn apart. need to clean up oil from drum and brake area. Then reassemble. Will probably re-watch the video before I do it with my son in a few weeks when its warm in Wisconsin.
Absolutely love your videos! I just purchased a beautiful 1 owner 39 Ford 9n. I think she may be an early 40. your videos have already gotten me a bunch of projects to work on my tractor!
Great video you are the only person to show how the clutch pedal will apply the left brake when you push the clutch pedal down Thanks for a great job i will be rebuilding my uncle’s 2n tractor this spring and passing it along to my grandson which will be the last tractor ill do since I turn 80 in march
Thanks!! Yes it seems a lot of people still don't know about the brake on the left side. Once the weather gets better I'm probably going to do a video just on that since I hear a lot of confusion and misinformation about this setup. Thanks for watching and enjoy your project!! If you need any help give me a hollar
Thank you so much for your time,I knew nothing about tractors bought a 9n and it had some issues I did not know to look for lift was falling when pushed in clutch and little to know brakes I used some of this like a 9n bible. it helped me out so much and got my lift and brakes fixed. Im very happy with the way it turned out.
That is awesome!! I'm always glad to hear the videos helping someone!! That was my intention for making these videos. For people who are new to Ford's and to keep as many of them out there running!
Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 2N I bought in 1973 and use it as work tractor. I rebuilt the engine in 1985. It's been very dependable but has wet brakes and am thinking of trying this project. I only wish my shop was as clean and neat as yours!!
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your future project. It is a job that is very rewarding once you have brakes! 😆 If you have any questions just ask.
Great great job. I thank you and the Lord Jesus for your videos. This is a big help for anyone with a ford 9n, 2n, or 8n tractor or any one who is interested in old ford tractors.
LoL...yeah its a Mystery to me too. I checked the Fragments with a Magnet and they are Ferrous mixed with very fine Particles of Gold Color stuff. The Three Point Hitch traverses its Range normally and stays Up but does Droop when Driving any distance. I suppose I'm going to have to tear the whole thing apart AGAIN as the Noise is getting worse...something is amiss. I did get a bunch of Oil Leaks taken care of as this Tractor has an old Loader installed...had the Lift Rams Rebuilt...$400 each. I replaced all 13 Hoses...$200. Bucket Ram looks fairly new & ok. I made & Installed new Gaskets on the Lever Valve. New Seal & Gasket on the PTO Shaft fixed that Leak. Had this 8N for about a year now and is the first time this Shade Tree Mechanic has ever Wrenched on a Tractor of any kind...so I'm learning :)
@@craigpirson6687 That's great!! I have a 48 8N as well. There will be some similar things on these videos for you but a lot is different as well. If you check out my channel I have a video of the 8N getting new axle seals and such
@@1crazynordlander That's awesome!! Best of luck with it! They'll make you pull out your hair at times but the good outweighs the bad! I hope to someday to do a video series on a 8N. There are some things that are the same in these videos,but there are a lot of differences.
Great video and I made a bearing puller similar to the one in this video. It worked great! Question: If the outer seal was installed, why would you install Sure Seals? The Sure Seal prevents the hydraulic oil from lubricating the axle bearings and the bearing would not need to be packed.
dan linsey Like I said in the video it doubles your chances of not getting a leak on the brakes. The sure seal is a extra barrier where as the original seal only creates one barrier untill the oil makes it to the brake drum. Also since oil does develop contaminants after a while it is actually better for the outer rear bearings to be sealed off. Thanks for watching
G Day Jason, Just found your channel and enjoy the videos. I do similar on my channel but on Fergusons and John Deere. Just finished a JD420H and have a 1948 TEA20 Fergy I started on a while back but no clips on it yet. The TE20 is very similar to the 8n etc but then again different too. Great stuff.
Bundy Bears Shed Glad you enjoyed them!! Just checked out your channel and subscribed. I restore all makes and models I like them all but I know the Fords the best because I've been around them my whole life
Very nice series of Video's! Watched every minute. Very thorough and that's important for us nonprofessional DIY Tractor owners who may need to make their own Repairs. I Removed and Rebuilt the Hydraulic Pump on my recently acquired 1952 Ford 8N Tractor due to a Dull Rattle under the Seat when the Clutch is released while the PTO is engaged. The Pump seemed to be in good shape but I went ahead and Rebuilt it as I had it out. However there was quite a bit of Metal Debris in the bottom of the Pump when I took it out. And the Dull Rattle is still there... guess it wasn't the Pump! The Moral of this Story I guess is...probably best to Inspect everything in the Hydraulic Section before Reassembly. Any idea on what that Dull Rattle is? PTO Bearing.
cheewurz Glad you enjoyed the videos! As far as your problem with the noise I would have to say the bearing is going in the pto also however the fact that you had metal shavings raises a few questions? Were the shavings very fine or larger in size? Was it brass from bushings in the pump? Was your PTO shaft easy to get in and out?
Very Nice video and great information! I was just fighting with my Sure Seals. Yes, you have to grind them down. Took me a while. I guess they put more metal on to make up for some hubs that might be warn. Not sure but certainly a pain. Great tip! They should put a note on them saying may need to shave off some material.
Thanks Robert!! Years ago when the Sure Seals came out there wasn't a issue of fitting. Like everything else these days there seems to be little to no quality control. That part of the hub will never have any ware on it. I also feel the Sure Seals should have more rubber. The seal is kind of cheap. That's why I replace the outer seals too
@@Jason1Pa Yes, you did an awesome job! Nice invention of the tool too. I agree, everything today awful with quality control. That's why these old machines last 100 years or more! Thank you!
Nice video you did a very good job of explaining and demonstrating how to do this job watching it gave me the confidence to do this job myself. Although you were able to press your bearing out a lot easier than mine. I pushed my 20 ton press to the max and heated the inner race to glowing red and still couldn't break it loose so I ended up just cutting it out with a torch and fished the bearing rollers out one at a time with needle nose pliers and then I was able to get the hub off. I then cut the inner race off with a die grinder quite a job but that's ok. Thank you for posting this video I'm sure it will help others as well and I will be watching your other videos as I continue with the restoration of my tractor.
I do have one question about adjusting the bearing preload if you don't mind. I put both axles in using the minimum number of gaskets one on either side of the brake assembly and the axles move in and out slightly maybe a 16th of an inch is this too loose? Im debating on if I should leave it be or to remove a gasket and use gasket sealer.
@@joelsmith7896 Hi Joel! Yes 1/16 of a inch is too much in my opinion. You may even be able to hear that slop when driving around. I'm just guessing but maybe there is too much ware on the ends of the axles where the meet together. Did you replace the axle bearings and races? If you had new it may help take up some of the slop but probably not enough. You can try removing the shims and using a gasket sealer shouldn't hurt anything unless it would remove too much play.
Yes I did replace both bearings and races and they had the same numbers stamped on them as the original and I made sure I pressed the races all the way in also. The odd thing is I removed a metal shim that I didn't put back. I'll remove a couple gaskets an replace with sealer and that should get rid of the play. Thank you for taking time to answer my question.
31 Ford LOL Yeah it was a long video but my goal was to have the inexperienced have no questions. LOL I've had it out once this week. Everything seemed great except I need to adjust the brakes better. I will post a video of it lifting something and moving around. As far as a video painting I will probably do some short clips or slide show. As far as a how to video I think I won't.. I hate painting!! LOL
A very comprehensive presentation. My dad had three of these tractors over the years. The only rear axle work I did was to adjust the pinion bearing on one of the tractors while I had the cover off to work on the hydraulics. Would parts from a two ton Timken differential work on this tractor?
Checking this out quick on my phone, coming back to watch it in its entirety as I discovered a leaking axle seal on my Ford 9N. At a glance, it seems like you might use AVS video editor. Also. Just found and subscribed to your channel, cheers!
I'm currently working on a massey ferguson 50 that needs a rear end put in it. Does it come apart and go back together the same way as this one? If not, do u have e another video on that tractor? Great video btw. Very detailed.
Just watched all 6 parts of this series and now have more confidence to do what needs to be done...lol. I have your feed bookmarked and subscribed because you did an excellent job creating these videos in detail. I have an early 8N (built in '47) and the hydraulics are getting a little weak. Recently I've had a problem when lifting a heavy load all the way up, it will stick in the up position and I basically have to disengage the hydraulics and wait for the pressure to bleed off until the arms finally break loose and drop down. Do you think that would be caused by the relief valve, or something more difficult to have to replace or rebuild?
Jason, I was hoping I could send you a video. I need help with my 2N. In second gear it is growling really bad from the rear axle. Not sure what this could be?
Jason, good series. Ihave a question, why were you installing bearings dry? Instead of pre lubing with an Assembly Lube to prevent scuffing a New Dry bearing? Just wondering.
When there is gear oil put in it most of the bearings are submerged in oil. The ones that are not will be oiled with a few feet of driving. And actually they really aren't dry they have oil film on them from the manufacturer to prevent rusting
Hello Jasson 1Pa I really enjoyed you video as I am in the middle of a restoration of a Ford 2N as well and your videos has become very helpful. I have a question about the measurement relating to hub and baring tool that you introduced at 28:20. I was hoping you could share the design and measurement as i wish to replicate the tool.
how did you get the speedi sleeeves? I can't find the proper size. skf has many of them but not ones needed for the n tractors. Can you healp me with this? thank you. very good vidios.
I think I have the part number I used written down someplace I'll need to check. I used digital calipers and measured the area it needed to slide over and compaired it to a chart I found online. A lot of automotive places sell them. I think I got these from O'Rielys. Didn't have them on stock but was able to be ordered.
Jason, I have been turning wrenches for over 40 years, on everything from mini-bikes and weed whacker, motorcycles cars, elevators on up to commercial airliners. Your videos are extremely interesting, eventhough I will probably never have need to own or work on an old farm tractor. But you did something I have NEVER seen before; and that is welding out a bearing race. I assume that done because you can't get a pulled in behind it? Man, you have got to give me the theory and tips... what and how, etc
I've known about welding out bearing races for as long as I can remember. I thought everyone knew that trick. All threw my videos I try to use several different ways to do something such as using heat,shop press,special tools,homemade tools,welders,etc. Just to give people a idea of what options to use. I understand that not everyone may have a particular tool or have the budget to buy one so I give them options. Thanks for watching!!
@@marksmallwood7236 Ok cool that's about and hour 20 minutes from me. I'm near New Stanton off the Pa. Turnpike (Westmoreland County) I have a 48 8N as well. No Cub YET but one is on my wish list.😂
Jason1Pa in 1976 I was 12, dad said we were going to get a tractor. At the dealer I was looking at all the new stuff. finally we ended up in the weeds at the oldest looking stuff and dad picked out what we could afford. 9n with a loader. got a blade and brush hog with the deal. had a hi/low transmission. wish I had it now. Cubs belonged to my uncle's. bought nearly new and still use them on the family farm. had been using one to cut hay with sickle until last year. other to mow with woods belly mower. now using New Holland 6610 for most farm work. plenty of power and traction with 4wheel drive for me.
Thanks for sharing your talents. I just bought an 850. With I think a broken spider gear or cross pin. It will not turn very easily and pushed the front tires in a turn. And there is a huge clunk that you hear from the axle ends when starting or changing direction. Hoped it was the brakes... buyer beware.
Great detail in the video! Almost made me feel like I could do it!😂. Question: I have my late fathers 640, and recently broke the left axle off right at the inside of the hub. Having trouble locating a replacement. Know where i can find one? Internet searches so far has not turned up anything. Thanks for any suggestions!
To my knowledge the only "new" axle shaft you can buy is for the 8N and Jubilee. Unfortunately your 640 is not the same. You'll need to post a want add on various tractor sites to find one.
great job, you should've been my shop teacher lol! i have a '44 2n tractor the question i have is, are parts still readily available for these old machines?
Skyfel LOL Thanks glad you enjoyed it. Yes parts are easy to get for these Fords. You can almost build a complete tractor out of a catalog the parts are so easy to get.
i have a 1958powermaster801sos it want move when you put in gear riding it and it quit is there a clutch in a auto trans maybe the inching pedal hope you can help me thanks
I'm no expert with the SOS transmissions but here is a business not too far from me that restores Ford's and they specialise in the SOS transmissions. Call them up they will be able to help you. Here is their website arthurstractors.com/
Great video again. Do you know how to get the rear pinion out of the 8n? I got my axle housings off and the diff out and now want to remove the pinion assembly. I thought you could just unbolt it and tap it out? I dont want the ring gear off the diff just the pinion assembly out of the case.
It's not easy. You have to break off rivets on the gear end. Then you have double nuts that need to come off in the splines side. Why do you want to remove it? Unless the gear is totally trashed or bearing is bad let it be. Some people will even get a whole other housing with one in it already and place.
@@Jason1Pa thanks. I am restoring the tractor and painting everything. I wanted to take everything out of the housing and get it dipped in acid. The animation from Just8ns makes it look like it just bolts in.
@@Jason1Pa I dont want to take that piece out that directs oil. Someone said you can bolt a slide hammer to the front of the pinion shaft where it is threaded. Sucks to take it down this far and not be able to remove the pinion.
@jjay718 That I don't know. If I remember correctly that piece needs to come off. There is like a plate that holds that bearing in place on that end. My memory is a little fuzzy plus I've never taken one out. I just remember guys choosing to swap out the rears simply to avoid that repair. There has to be a reason. I'm curious let me know what you find out.
Hey so we are trying to get the axel and the backing off but it will not budge, we have even tried a 5 pound sledge but it won’t come loosened. Have any tips or tricks to get it to loosen from the housing? We are trying to get to the brakes but it will not budge. We have loosened the brake nut too like you showed in the video.
All I can say is they can be a real bear to get separated. Are you trying it as it is on the tractor? If so take the whole assembly and axle off the tractor. This particular one in the video I had hanging from a engine hoist just a few inches off the ground with a ratchet strap wrapped around the axle several times. With it hanging you have the weight helping you as you smack it with your sledge hammer. Even better if you have a person on either side hitting at the same time. Heating up the the drum should help to to help expand it to release it. Then once it's apart make sure you grind the ridge off on the inside like I did in the video. Hope this helps. Good luck! Let me know!
@@Jason1Pa we ended up having to take the bolts off from the backing plate and it came out all as a whole, now we have to figure out a way to get the backing plate separated from the rest so we can get into the brakes! Your videos have been a huge help though so thank you for them!!! Much appreciated for the help
Sorry for the late reply. I was away for a few days. Yes generally it would be issue in the top area. Worn piston/rings and scored cylinder. However don't over look the the pressure relief valve on the pump. If you take the circular plate off on the right hand side while trying to lift something it will tell you a lot when taking a peek inside. If you see any oil dripping from above its worn cylinder and piston rings. If you see any turbulence in the oil the pressure valve is leaking
@@Jason1Pa thank you for that response. I will look at the pressure release valve now that you mention it. But i did get it to function once I disconected the draft srping from the top link... so i can atleast use the 3 point hitch.
Ok, I have a leak where the lower 3 point arm attaches to the rear end. It looks like a bracket with a small and large bolt. The large bolt just turns when I try to tighten it.
I'm assuming your talking about the pin under the axle that the lift arm attaches to. If so if you want to fix that leak and tighten it up you need to remove the whole axle/housing off the tractor to get to the castle nut on the inside of the housing. I show how it's done in the video.
This is just my opinion to make a great video you showing all what you are doing and not cutting out part's. If I needed to fix my tractor I could go and watch your videos on that note you would get more people viewing that has this good old Ford tractor and more people SUB to your Channel at the end you would get more profit for more videos
Josh Morlock No not done. I have not had and tractor related projects this summer so I just have not posted anything. This fall/winter I will probably be doing more videos
is that an OIL spot on the ground? Is that Hotrod still dripping? LMAOYES YES YES, I can comment, and I will keep on Commenting... You're in big danger LOL
My dad and i watched this entire video today. We are rebuilding my grandpas 54 Ferguson TO30. Thank you for the shared knowledge. Throughly enjoyed this video.
Awesome!! Thanks for watching!
Great video . Very good info and done at the right speed . Thanks
Thanks Jeff! Thank you for watching!
Really an excellent instruction! I feel quite confident that both my neighbor and I will have successful restorations of the seals and brakes on his 9N and my 8N. This video is among the top 5% of all instructional videos I have ever watched for anticipating questions and offering tips, not to mention clarity of the various shots. Well done and thanks for the added 8N info in the 9N/2N video.
Rick Olson Thank you so much Rick. I always like to know that people find the videos helpful. Good luck on the 9N and 8N
Thanks for all the great info Jason, I'm about to do the same to my 9n as soon as the the parts get here, I will use this video as reference, great job on explaining the step by step, and what not to do's, thanks again.
Very great series! Loved following along with it! She's gonna drive and run like brand new but even better! These old Fords are definitely an interesting piece! Thanks for sharing with us! And I definitely learned new things on this!
Search for instablaster on google. =)
your video was awesome. Cleared up a number of questions I had. Have the brake assembly torn apart. need to clean up oil from drum and brake area. Then reassemble. Will probably re-watch the video before I do it with my son in a few weeks when its warm in Wisconsin.
Thank you so much for your kind words! Good luck on your project. If you need any help just holler!
This is great stuff. I've watched it more than once. Incredibly helpful. Thank you Jason.
Thanks and thanks for watching Stephen!
You do a marvelous job in explaining everything. Looking forward to many more videos. Thank you.
Jim Buford Thanks Jim!! Appreciate the positive feedback!
Excellent video series, Jason! Very well explained, and done!
Thank you so much for your feedback FoMoCo1. Appreciate it!
👍 Thank You for the video . I'll save it for future when I start my brake job ✌
Absolutely love your videos! I just purchased a beautiful 1 owner 39 Ford 9n. I think she may be an early 40. your videos have already gotten me a bunch of projects to work on my tractor!
Awesome!! I'd like to get a early 9N some day. Thanks for watching
Looked all over youtube for some advise on those axle outer seal replacement... very nice video, thanks for your help!!
Not a problem. I need to change the title of the video I think that would help.
Great video love all the detail. Thank you! I can't wait to get my own Ford tractor in the next few years
J Schap. I Appreciate it!!
Great video you are the only person to show how the clutch pedal will apply the left brake when you push the clutch pedal down Thanks for a great job i will be rebuilding my uncle’s 2n tractor this spring and passing it along to my grandson which will be the last tractor ill do since I turn 80 in march
Thanks!! Yes it seems a lot of people still don't know about the brake on the left side. Once the weather gets better I'm probably going to do a video just on that since I hear a lot of confusion and misinformation about this setup. Thanks for watching and enjoy your project!! If you need any help give me a hollar
@@Jason1Pa will do
Excellent series I’ll pfobably have watch 10 times.👀
LOL 😂 Enjoy!!
Great job you're a awesome teacher
Thanks for the kind words Bill. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the very informative series.
jerryf609 Your Welcome!
Henry Ford was a GENIUS!!!!!
Indeed
I'm guessing he probably didn't design the tractors.
Thank you so much for your time,I knew nothing about tractors bought a 9n and it had some issues I did not know to look for lift was falling when pushed in clutch and little to know brakes I used some of this like a 9n bible. it helped me out so much and got my lift and brakes fixed. Im very happy with the way it turned out.
That is awesome!! I'm always glad to hear the videos helping someone!! That was my intention for making these videos. For people who are new to Ford's and to keep as many of them out there running!
Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 2N I bought in 1973 and use it as work tractor. I rebuilt the engine in 1985. It's been very dependable but has wet brakes and am thinking of trying this project. I only wish my shop was as clean and neat as yours!!
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your future project. It is a job that is very rewarding once you have brakes! 😆
If you have any questions just ask.
Great great job. I thank you and the Lord Jesus for your videos. This is a big help for anyone with a ford 9n, 2n, or 8n tractor or any one who is interested in old ford tractors.
Thank you for the kind words! God bless!!
thanks so much for all the great instruction. really appreciate it.
Your welcome!! Thanks for watching
Great instruction video! I've just changed the bearings on my ford dexta 2000 and this was great inspiration!
SYB-B Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!!
loved the video
Great job I’m glad I watched you cause I’m gonna be working on my Ford two in the spring thank you great job
Thanks!! And good luck on your future Ford project!
Thanks for taking the time and detail .....excellent video, I learned several things that will be useful
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Good videos, very helpful.
WD Y Glad you liked them!!
Excelente trabajo Jason y bien explicado
Gracias!!
great video, clear and helpful!
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
LoL...yeah its a Mystery to me too. I checked the Fragments with a Magnet and they are Ferrous mixed with very fine Particles of Gold Color stuff.
The Three Point Hitch traverses its Range normally and stays Up but does Droop when Driving any distance.
I suppose I'm going to have to tear the whole thing apart AGAIN as the Noise is getting worse...something is amiss.
I did get a bunch of Oil Leaks taken care of as this Tractor has an old Loader installed...had the Lift Rams Rebuilt...$400 each. I replaced all 13 Hoses...$200. Bucket Ram looks fairly new & ok. I made & Installed new Gaskets on the Lever Valve. New Seal & Gasket on the PTO Shaft fixed that Leak. Had this 8N for about a year now and is the first time this Shade Tree Mechanic has ever Wrenched on a Tractor of any kind...so I'm learning :)
cheewurz Glad your learning and hopefully having fun!! Good Luck!!
Excellent video series, top notch !!
Thanks for the kind words Craig!! Glad you enjoyed them😃
@@Jason1Pa Your welcome, just picked up a '47 8N, and your videos will be a great resource as I go through it 😀
@@craigpirson6687 That's great!! I have a 48 8N as well. There will be some similar things on these videos for you but a lot is different as well. If you check out my channel I have a video of the 8N getting new axle seals and such
nice vid well done
Thank you for the very helpful vidios
Yiorgos K Not a problem! Thanks for watching!!
Great video......👍🏼
Thanks
Nice! You are a good mechanic. You know your stuff. I subbed. I need to catch the rest of your videos on the Ford 9N/8N.
Thanks!! I try. 😆 Thanks for watching
@@Jason1Pa I am getting an 8N this fall that needs a lot of attention.
@@1crazynordlander That's awesome!! Best of luck with it! They'll make you pull out your hair at times but the good outweighs the bad! I hope to someday to do a video series on a 8N. There are some things that are the same in these videos,but there are a lot of differences.
Excellent.....
Bug Bomb Thanks!!
Great video and I made a bearing puller similar to the one in this video. It worked great!
Question: If the outer seal was installed, why would you install Sure Seals?
The Sure Seal prevents the hydraulic oil from lubricating the axle bearings and the bearing would not need to be packed.
dan linsey Like I said in the video it doubles your chances of not getting a leak on the brakes. The sure seal is a extra barrier where as the original seal only creates one barrier untill the oil makes it to the brake drum. Also since oil does develop contaminants after a while it is actually better for the outer rear bearings to be sealed off. Thanks for watching
G Day Jason, Just found your channel and enjoy the videos. I do similar on my channel but on Fergusons and John Deere. Just finished a JD420H and have a 1948 TEA20 Fergy I started on a while back but no clips on it yet. The TE20 is very similar to the 8n etc but then again different too. Great stuff.
Bundy Bears Shed Glad you enjoyed them!! Just checked out your channel and subscribed. I restore all makes and models I like them all but I know the Fords the best because I've been around them my whole life
My bread and butter was John Deere for many years but as a light tractor to take to shows I like the little Feriges.
Very nice series of Video's! Watched every minute. Very thorough and that's important for us nonprofessional DIY Tractor owners who may need to make their own Repairs.
I Removed and Rebuilt the Hydraulic Pump on my recently acquired 1952 Ford 8N Tractor due to a Dull Rattle under the Seat when the Clutch is released while the PTO is engaged. The Pump seemed to be in good shape but I went ahead and Rebuilt it as I had it out. However there was quite a bit of Metal Debris in the bottom of the Pump when I took it out. And the Dull Rattle is still there... guess it wasn't the Pump! The Moral of this Story I guess is...probably best to Inspect everything in the Hydraulic Section before Reassembly. Any idea on what that Dull Rattle is? PTO Bearing.
cheewurz Glad you enjoyed the videos! As far as your problem with the noise I would have to say the bearing is going in the pto also however the fact that you had metal shavings raises a few questions? Were the shavings very fine or larger in size? Was it brass from bushings in the pump? Was your PTO shaft easy to get in and out?
Very Nice video and great information! I was just fighting with my Sure Seals. Yes, you have to grind them down. Took me a while. I guess they put more metal on to make up for some hubs that might be warn. Not sure but certainly a pain. Great tip! They should put a note on them saying may need to shave off some material.
Thanks Robert!! Years ago when the Sure Seals came out there wasn't a issue of fitting. Like everything else these days there seems to be little to no quality control. That part of the hub will never have any ware on it. I also feel the Sure Seals should have more rubber. The seal is kind of cheap. That's why I replace the outer seals too
@@Jason1Pa Yes, you did an awesome job! Nice invention of the tool too. I agree, everything today awful with quality control. That's why these old machines last 100 years or more! Thank you!
Nice video you did a very good job of explaining and demonstrating how to do this job watching it gave me the confidence to do this job myself. Although you were able to press your bearing out a lot easier than mine. I pushed my 20 ton press to the max and heated the inner race to glowing red and still couldn't break it loose so I ended up just cutting it out with a torch and fished the bearing rollers out one at a time with needle nose pliers and then I was able to get the hub off. I then cut the inner race off with a die grinder quite a job but that's ok. Thank you for posting this video I'm sure it will help others as well and I will be watching your other videos as I continue with the restoration of my tractor.
Thanks Joel I appreciate it!! All and all this job went pretty smooth. Guess I got lucky this time! Thanks for watching!
I do have one question about adjusting the bearing preload if you don't mind. I put both axles in using the minimum number of gaskets one on either side of the brake assembly and the axles move in and out slightly maybe a 16th of an inch is this too loose? Im debating on if I should leave it be or to remove a gasket and use gasket sealer.
@@joelsmith7896 Hi Joel! Yes 1/16 of a inch is too much in my opinion. You may even be able to hear that slop when driving around. I'm just guessing but maybe there is too much ware on the ends of the axles where the meet together. Did you replace the axle bearings and races? If you had new it may help take up some of the slop but probably not enough. You can try removing the shims and using a gasket sealer shouldn't hurt anything unless it would remove too much play.
Yes I did replace both bearings and races and they had the same numbers stamped on them as the original and I made sure I pressed the races all the way in also. The odd thing is I removed a metal shim that I didn't put back. I'll remove a couple gaskets an replace with sealer and that should get rid of the play. Thank you for taking time to answer my question.
Dang that was a lot of detail! Cant wait to see it running. I know its a while out but, are you going to do any videos on the paint and prep?
31 Ford LOL Yeah it was a long video but my goal was to have the inexperienced have no questions. LOL I've had it out once this week. Everything seemed great except I need to adjust the brakes better. I will post a video of it lifting something and moving around. As far as a video painting I will probably do some short clips or slide show. As far as a how to video I think I won't.. I hate painting!! LOL
Jason1Pa Yeah I hear you, I dont like to paint either. I just dont have the patience for it.
A very comprehensive presentation. My dad had three of these tractors over the years. The only rear axle work I did was to adjust the pinion bearing on one of the tractors while I had the cover off to work on the hydraulics. Would parts from a two ton Timken differential work on this tractor?
I don't know for sure but I would probably say no.
Checking this out quick on my phone, coming back to watch it in its entirety as I discovered a leaking axle seal on my Ford 9N. At a glance, it seems like you might use AVS video editor. Also. Just found and subscribed to your channel, cheers!
Yes I do use AVS. Hope this helps you on your repair. If you need help just ask
I'm currently working on a massey ferguson 50 that needs a rear end put in it. Does it come apart and go back together the same way as this one? If not, do u have e another video on that tractor? Great video btw. Very detailed.
There would be some similarities,but a lot of differences comparing the MF 50 to this one.
Sorry no video.
Jason, another great video…no one really goes thru the brakes and mine are horrible.
Sadly the brakes/ axle seal design are the weak point on these tractors 😩
Just watched all 6 parts of this series and now have more confidence to do what needs to be done...lol. I have your feed bookmarked and subscribed because you did an excellent job creating these videos in detail. I have an early 8N (built in '47) and the hydraulics are getting a little weak. Recently I've had a problem when lifting a heavy load all the way up, it will stick in the up position and I basically have to disengage the hydraulics and wait for the pressure to bleed off until the arms finally break loose and drop down. Do you think that would be caused by the relief valve, or something more difficult to have to replace or rebuild?
Brian Powers I am glad the videos have helped you Brian. Thanks for the positive feedback. Good luck on yours.
Thank You .........
Your welcome
Jason, I was hoping I could send you a video. I need help with my 2N. In second gear it is growling really bad from the rear axle. Not sure what this could be?
Will Carter My email is jbeluschok@yahoo.com I'm not sure what would make it do that in second gear only?
Jason, good series. Ihave a question, why were you installing bearings dry? Instead of pre lubing with an Assembly Lube to prevent scuffing a New Dry bearing? Just wondering.
When there is gear oil put in it most of the bearings are submerged in oil. The ones that are not will be oiled with a few feet of driving. And actually they really aren't dry they have oil film on them from the manufacturer to prevent rusting
excellent video.. One think I dont like are the tractors with no running boards.. So dangerous
Hello Jasson 1Pa I really enjoyed you video as I am in the middle of a restoration of a Ford 2N as well and your videos has become very helpful. I have a question about the measurement relating to hub and baring tool that you introduced at 28:20. I was hoping you could share the design and measurement as i wish to replicate the tool.
Jared Collacchi No problem Jared I'll take some measurements when I get home from work. If I forget remind me
please send the measurements to jared.collacchi@gmail.com
how did you get the speedi sleeeves? I can't find the proper size. skf has many of them but not ones needed for the n tractors. Can you healp me with this? thank you. very good vidios.
I think I have the part number I used written down someplace I'll need to check. I used digital calipers and measured the area it needed to slide over and compaired it to a chart I found online. A lot of automotive places sell them. I think I got these from O'Rielys. Didn't have them on stock but was able to be ordered.
Jason, I have been turning wrenches for over 40 years, on everything from mini-bikes and weed whacker, motorcycles cars, elevators on up to commercial airliners. Your videos are extremely interesting, eventhough I will probably never have need to own or work on an old farm tractor. But you did something I have NEVER seen before; and that is welding out a bearing race. I assume that done because you can't get a pulled in behind it? Man, you have got to give me the theory and tips... what and how, etc
I've known about welding out bearing races for as long as I can remember. I thought everyone knew that trick. All threw my videos I try to use several different ways to do something such as using heat,shop press,special tools,homemade tools,welders,etc. Just to give people a idea of what options to use. I understand that not everyone may have a particular tool or have the budget to buy one so I give them options. Thanks for watching!!
wow! amazing job! when putting bearing race in, does it help to put in freezer for a while?
It's a pretty tight fit. Highly unlikely the race would contract that much to help any.
Jason1Pa thanks. just wondering. are you in PA. I'm near Wheeling WV. Have 48 8N and 2 48 Cubs.
@@marksmallwood7236 Ok cool that's about and hour 20 minutes from me. I'm near New Stanton off the Pa. Turnpike (Westmoreland County) I have a 48 8N as well. No Cub YET but one is on my wish list.😂
Jason1Pa in 1976 I was 12, dad said we were going to get a tractor. At the dealer I was looking at all the new stuff. finally we ended up in the weeds at the oldest looking stuff and dad picked out what we could afford. 9n with a loader. got a blade and brush hog with the deal. had a hi/low transmission. wish I had it now. Cubs belonged to my uncle's. bought nearly new and still use them on the family farm. had been using one to cut hay with sickle until last year. other to mow with woods belly mower. now using New Holland 6610 for most farm work. plenty of power and traction with 4wheel drive for me.
Thank u
Your welcome!
both axles spin in same direction out of gear but in gear they turn opposite directions .is the pre load done in gear?
It's done in neutral
Thanks for sharing your talents. I just bought an 850. With I think a broken spider gear or cross pin. It will not turn very easily and pushed the front tires in a turn. And there is a huge clunk that you hear from the axle ends when starting or changing direction. Hoped it was the brakes... buyer beware.
Steven Pullin That's terrible! Hoping it isn't as bad as it sounds. And yes buyer beware!! I've been there done that..
Jason1Pa is the process for 850 very similar to the 2n outer axle shaft?
Seal
On a 2n tractor do you press the outer wheel seal on the hub assembly to the ledge or even with the hub?
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. UA-cam sometimes doesn't notify me when I get a message. The seal gets pressed in the whole way.
Great detail in the video! Almost made me feel like I could do it!😂. Question: I have my late fathers 640, and recently broke the left axle off right at the inside of the hub. Having trouble locating a replacement. Know where i can find one? Internet searches so far has not turned up anything. Thanks for any suggestions!
To my knowledge the only "new" axle shaft you can buy is for the 8N and Jubilee. Unfortunately your 640 is not the same. You'll need to post a want add on various tractor sites to find one.
You may want to give www.smithimpliments.com a try. He has a lot of parts and even a lot of new old stock items.
Number is 269-663-5043
Thanks for the info!
@@Jason1Pa thanks to you and smith implements the 640 is back in action!!
great job, you should've been my shop teacher lol! i have a '44 2n tractor the question i have is, are parts still readily available for these old machines?
Skyfel LOL Thanks glad you enjoyed it. Yes parts are easy to get for these Fords. You can almost build a complete tractor out of a catalog the parts are so easy to get.
Jason1Pa thats good to know i almost gave up on the old ford,
Skyfel Don't do that!! LOL
i have a 1958powermaster801sos it want move when you put in gear riding it and it quit is there a clutch in a auto trans maybe the inching pedal hope you can help me thanks
I'm no expert with the SOS transmissions but here is a business not too far from me that restores Ford's and they specialise in the SOS transmissions. Call them up they will be able to help you. Here is their website arthurstractors.com/
Una pregunta podría usted subir el manual de taller del Ford 2n??
Mi correo electronico es: jbeluschok@yahoo.com
Escribeme y tratare de enviartelo.
Great video again. Do you know how to get the rear pinion out of the 8n? I got my axle housings off and the diff out and now want to remove the pinion assembly. I thought you could just unbolt it and tap it out? I dont want the ring gear off the diff just the pinion assembly out of the case.
It's not easy. You have to break off rivets on the gear end. Then you have double nuts that need to come off in the splines side. Why do you want to remove it? Unless the gear is totally trashed or bearing is bad let it be. Some people will even get a whole other housing with one in it already and place.
@@Jason1Pa thanks. I am restoring the tractor and painting everything. I wanted to take everything out of the housing and get it dipped in acid. The animation from Just8ns makes it look like it just bolts in.
@jjay718 No unfortunately it doesn't just bolt in. If you look at that metal piece that directs the oil it is riveted in
@@Jason1Pa I dont want to take that piece out that directs oil. Someone said you can bolt a slide hammer to the front of the pinion shaft where it is threaded. Sucks to take it down this far and not be able to remove the pinion.
@jjay718 That I don't know. If I remember correctly that piece needs to come off. There is like a plate that holds that bearing in place on that end. My memory is a little fuzzy plus I've never taken one out. I just remember guys choosing to swap out the rears simply to avoid that repair. There has to be a reason. I'm curious let me know what you find out.
Hey so we are trying to get the axel and the backing off but it will not budge, we have even tried a 5 pound sledge but it won’t come loosened. Have any tips or tricks to get it to loosen from the housing? We are trying to get to the brakes but it will not budge. We have loosened the brake nut too like you showed in the video.
All I can say is they can be a real bear to get separated. Are you trying it as it is on the tractor? If so take the whole assembly and axle off the tractor. This particular one in the video I had hanging from a engine hoist just a few inches off the ground with a ratchet strap wrapped around the axle several times. With it hanging you have the weight helping you as you smack it with your sledge hammer. Even better if you have a person on either side hitting at the same time. Heating up the the drum should help to to help expand it to release it. Then once it's apart make sure you grind the ridge off on the inside like I did in the video. Hope this helps. Good luck! Let me know!
@@Jason1Pa we ended up having to take the bolts off from the backing plate and it came out all as a whole, now we have to figure out a way to get the backing plate separated from the rest so we can get into the brakes! Your videos have been a huge help though so thank you for them!!! Much appreciated for the help
Is there a certain way to put the axle back into the rear end?
No just line up the splines so the axle shaft slides in all the way
My ford 9n wont lift heavy things so would that be a top lift problem? Does my draft control spring make a difference?
Sorry for the late reply. I was away for a few days. Yes generally it would be issue in the top area. Worn piston/rings and scored cylinder. However don't over look the the pressure relief valve on the pump. If you take the circular plate off on the right hand side while trying to lift something it will tell you a lot when taking a peek inside. If you see any oil dripping from above its worn cylinder and piston rings. If you see any turbulence in the oil the pressure valve is leaking
@@Jason1Pa thank you for that response. I will look at the pressure release valve now that you mention it. But i did get it to function once I disconected the draft srping from the top link... so i can atleast use the 3 point hitch.
On the 2N does the clutch pedal shaft just pull out with trumpet or is there something you need to mark ? Is it on splines?
Just pulls out. It's only in about a inch
@@Jason1Pa Thanks so much for reply. Excellent video!
@@whiteout1962 No problem. Thanks for watching.
I have a 41....brakes are next
U went the long way of fixing it my question is why didn’t u paint each part when u had it out
I always like to test everything for several hours before I paint. The tractors will get stripped down to nothing then painted.
What ton press do you have?
20 Ton
Ok, I have a leak where the lower 3 point arm attaches to the rear end. It looks like a bracket with a small and large bolt. The large bolt just turns when I try to tighten it.
I'm assuming your talking about the pin under the axle that the lift arm attaches to. If so if you want to fix that leak and tighten it up you need to remove the whole axle/housing off the tractor to get to the castle nut on the inside of the housing. I show how it's done in the video.
@@Jason1Pa can I get to it from pto opening?
@@happycampersminnesota7526 It's possible on the right side but it's a challenge. Left side you can not.
Yeah don't those shims also put the adjustment on the ring and pinion backlash
No there is no adjustment for that. Once the axle housings are bolted up the pinion bearings are set.
Where did you get the speedy sleeve?
They are sold at many places. I get them at NAPA or O'Rielys
Thank you
@@joelsmith7896 Anytime
This is just my opinion to make a great video you showing all what you are doing and not cutting out part's. If I needed to fix my tractor I could go and watch your videos on that note you would get more people viewing that has this good old Ford tractor and more people SUB to your Channel at the end you would get more profit for more videos
It's hard to decide what to do at times. I get complaints that I talk to much and drag it out while others still want more. 😆
@@Jason1Pa PR say like on something that has two sides you make two videos and whatever side was worse shape you play that video to all of us
1952 Ford 8N Pump Overhaul: Part 11 of 48: ua-cam.com/video/neIp0Ww2Teo/v-deo.html
cheewurz WOW!! For the life of me I can't think how you would get those large chucks and not see any visable damage.
Oil makes brakes and clutches grab not slip.
A little amount yes but a bad leak that soaks them no. If that would be the case every Ford owner would have brakes! 😆
Are you done with youtube?
Josh Morlock No not done. I have not had and tractor related projects this summer so I just have not posted anything. This fall/winter I will probably be doing more videos
Jason1Pa ok thanks!
brake pans? where see brake pads??? I see brake shoes!
Just a bad habit I guess. I call them all pads. 😆
Better yet...I can show you:
1952 Ford 8N Pump Overhaul: Part 10 of 48: ua-cam.com/video/mP5xKKqx1Io/v-deo.html
Come on man, nobody needs run boards? I don't need brakes, but seals and bearings yes! Old girlfriend leaks no good!🙃
NEW PC.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!When I get done, you'll be Wishing that I still couldn't comment. LOL LOL LOL
vidman008 I never get tired of your comments! ! LOL
is that an OIL spot on the ground? Is that Hotrod still dripping? LMAOYES YES YES, I can comment, and I will keep on Commenting... You're in big danger LOL
vidman008 Oil?? On my floor?? NEVER!! LOL Don't know what your talking about!!
vidman0
what a terrible design ):):