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Cam sensor tinkering - Joy or Misery?! UK Barn Find C4 Corvette ZR1 Project Episode 11
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- We are restoring the Barn Find Corvette C4 ZR-1 ZR1 as featured by @thelatebrakeshow @smithandsniff
Join us and watch this car come back to life!
In this episode @chrisbaker121924 test the cam sensor properly - Will it cure our fault or are we still at a checkmate??
You can support us by buying us a coffee: buymeacoffee.c...
Are you one of our many viewers that are not yet subscribed? Then what are you waiting for? It's totally free and massively helps us with our rather tricky project🙌!
Want to collaborate or sponsor a future video? Get in touch @📧llew.guild@gmail.com
Llewelyn's Instagram - / llewelyn_1
Chris's Instagram - / kitbaker_7
#corvettezr1 #projectcar #thelatebrakeshow
Lads don't be worrying about a delay in the videos. We understand you guys are working and are operating in the outdoors in UK. Keep the motivation up we're rooting for ye.
Thanks :) Operating around day jobs too... we only get about 2-3 hours a week on an evening when we get the time. I (Chris) am going into my summer holidays soon so hopefully we will be able to push more progress along! Thankyou for the support :)
@@Auto_Funk Might Ian Tyrrel from Tyrell's Classics help with the running problem?
The most British Corvette video ever. No ‘shop’, no Bendpack lift, lots of grief, shitty weather & those ‘Gold’ biscuits and a nice cuppa as cold comfort😂😂
This is what reality TV should be like.
We'll just put this LS6 in....
England,where even GRP cars rust.
The Empire was built on tea and biscuits -
@@daveglover6115 they didn’t keep it going though😂
Don't get too focused on the ECU telling you it is having sensor trouble. When cranking and with a badly running engine (low RPM stutter) it might erroneously set a code for a bad sensor signal because voltages (12V base voltage) are often low during cranking and getting a reliable base timing to correlate signals to is hard with the engine speed this low and stuttering. This is true amongst all cars of all ages that have ECUs. Modern ECUs have gotten better at this, but still mess up, yours is of an age that I wouldn't trust it until I can verify that it is actually correct by checking signals myself. Many cars riddle the ECU with "random" faults when it's running like a bag of spanners, effectively hiding the root cause of the problem and setting you off on a wrong course.
Instead, focus on the main things your engine needs, compression, fuel/air and ignition. If you have unmeasured air coming in, especially at locations where only one or a few cylinders are concerned, your ECU will try to compensate for what it measures on the O2 probe and mess up the mixture to a point where the car won't start/run. Check crank sensor signal strength and validity. Check all sensors for extreme values.
Compression sounds even/good, so I personally wouldn't focus on that initially, but you may want to check just in case.
Iridiums should work fine, technology advances and 100 year old plug design isn't the best anymore, even in an engine that wasn't designed with these plugs. If you decide to visit the other guy to test your ECU, bring your iginition module as well, since you had some dead misfires when you moved it. It also had some black smoke, indicating super rich running on the cylinders it was actually firing on, pointing to the ECU messing up the mixture values.
For now, focus on the basics, make sure you have no unmeasured air, both inlet and exhaust side, make sure your O2 sensor is giving the correct voltage and the heater is working, make sure your ECU isn't set on (wrong) extreme fuel corrections (reset measured parameters and clear DTCs), check your air measuring sensors (intake air temp, mass air flow/MAP), check your coolant temp sensor(s) going to the ECU. Check crank sensor signal strength and validity.
Long shot: figure out if you can check if the cam timing to correlate with the cam sensor. As said, this is a long shots but you want to verify before condemning the ECU. I don't know the internals of this sensor/cam setup but I know cases where a timing gear/disc/flapper thingy had come lose off the cam and moved before it got stuck again, making the ECU think the cam was in a different position than it actually was.
You may want to figure out if there are well recommended ECU rebuilding companies in the UK before shipping yours off. Just because the ECU is off an American car doesn't mean it can't be fixed by a UK company. In the end it's a box of electronic bits and most manufacturers use global companies to purchase ECUs off anyway, so the chances that a good UK company can test and fix it aren't that bad.
Very good advice. 👍🏻
The ECU was most probably designed in the UK as all of the design and Prototyping was done by Lotus . The first prototype cars were supposed to be scrapped but were discovered in an English field a few years ago.
I agree, we do need to focus on that. I want to ensure that it has good spark plugs that are working correctly... the issue with them iridium ones is that it ran slightly better on the old AC Delco ones... making us wonder if it is really very sensitive to spark plugs. I agree that with it not firing properly that it might start throwing random codes. The ECU looked mint inside so hopefully imagine that its not in bad order.
@@Auto_Funk Can pretty much guarantee there's a fella in a shed who's a genius and makes ECU's for fun - it's just a case of bumping into the right bloke down the pub who knows someone who met a bloke at a show who had his mower fixed by his brother-in law's mate!
Fortunately the intra-nets makes it easier to get the word out - a lot cheaper too what with the p£ice of a pint these days ... .... ..
Love the enthusiasm - gives us all inspiration on our own projects - thanks
Thanks Matthew - We'd be pretty screwed with it! Luckily we still have plenty! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat!
Some things to check. 1. What is the fuel pressure? Make sure the new pump didn't go bad. (Rare but can happen) 2. I think the cam sensor code can be ignored for now. On that era gm pcm, if a prob is detected with the cam sensor, the pcm illuminates the cel and switches the injector map from sequential to simultaneous. (Not ideal, but the engine will run fairly normal in that condition) Verify good strong spark to the plugs. (I know it's dis but spark can be tested with an old inductive timing light. Clip the induction loop around each wire one at a time and verify consistent, steady firing while cranking)
Considering the number of times the plenum was on and off, make sure there are no wires pinched between where the plenum and intake meet. Also make sure there's no big vacuum leak under there. Verify valve timing. (Those 35 year old plastic chain guides are very brittle and any one of them could have failed which would allow the valve timing to slip. Which, incidentally, could cause a false code 31 cam signal problem.
Might not be a bad idea to whip the covers off tbh and really check the timing lines up.
@@Auto_Funk like I've told my techs for years. Concerning those easier things to check: "I know you're sure that you're sure. But.......🫣"
All you have adjusted on the parking brake is the free play, make sure all the cables, all 3 are properly located, the brake should on move 3 - 5 clicks, you may find that the lever it's self is broken, the plastic cam is prone to breaking and the cable pulls through, also the front cable can collapse internally, but that normally reduces in lever travel, and the parking brake lever is self adjusting. The cables are cheap and readily available, so go stainless if you can, the lever is self is no longer available new and are getting very expensive. The mechanism is the same on all 89 - 96 C4s
Probably worth replacing the cable you're right!
Have you tried checking the coolant temperature sensor? These can sometimes fail (or read wrong temperature) Causing over/under fuelling.
Bear in mind there are two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU.
It’s the ECU one that needs checking.
I personally do not think that the ECU is the problem on this vehicle, just in case I am wrong, there is a great place in Heanor, Derbyshire, called ECU Testing, they once did an Electroplate repair on a Mercedes for me. Very quick and skilled people.
Use a Spark Detector on the leads to visually see you are getting a spark on each lead. Also it could be the ECU. I work on Saabs now but ive had lots of US cars from the 80's and the ECU's are quite typical GM. You have to remember they are 30+ yrs old and the Capacitors inside are well beyond their life. It could be some of them have failed and are leaking all over the PCB inside. I would open up the ECU and slide the PCB out. Give it a good visual over the entire board. Looking at the Electrolytic Caps, partially the base. If it looks wet or you can see green corrosion then you have a big problem. I do refurb Saab ECU's from the 80's and 90's so i can have a go for you should you find that to be the issue. Paul @ The SAAB Clinic UK.
Should also mention i have and injector cleaning and flow bench so i can test all your injectors for you.
We did open the ECU, looked in really good condition (visually)... We did do a lead tester too (timing light) and it triggered it on every lead between the base and the sparkplug so we think the leads are working okay and it is managing to spark on every cylinder. Its perplexing. A lot of people are saying similar things... going back to basics, ensuring we have fuel, spark and timing. We think compression is okay as the car is cranking lovely... but I guess that also could be an issue!
Hey Guys! Share your pain...! Nothing worse that changing a component to try and fix a problem, then making it worse...!!! Keep up the good work, and videos when you can - Everything is alright in the end. If everything is not alright, it's not the end!!!
Ah man it's frustrating eh!!! You will be pleased to know we learn ALOT in this weeks episode (6PM uk time TODAY!).... ! We will get there, especially with the support of all of you legends, it really helps :)
1) You may need a scan tool to activate the ABS to get the air pockets out of the ABS unit (best way, in my opinion). A mechanic of mine at the race track kluged it by bleeding the brakes the way you did but using a pressure bleeder attached to the fluid reservoir and then driving and activating the ABS, rinse, and repeat a couple of times. 2) As for the cam sensor, I had that problem on a C6 Z06 a few times. It would happen when the battery was low, and I would crank the car. It would throw that error code and would not stop until I disconnected the battery and fully drained the electrical system, e.g., leaving the door open with the battery disconnected. Then, reconnecting a fully charged battery (I would attach my jumper battery pack to the battery too) and then starting the car again. For some reason, that used to clear up that code. Hopefully, this will work for you guys. Cheers!
That's really useful info - I did wonder about the ABS and whether we need to force it on but reading up no-one mentioned it. They are still slightly spongy so need looking at. Regarding the cam sensor we have some updates in tonights video which I reckon you'll find interesting, give it a watch! ... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
Great watching you both try to get this running, especially as you are on the drive not some fully kitted out workshop. I have a C4 and have had very similar problems to chase but on the standard L98, keep going it will come right.
Geez, I was really hoping for a simple sparkplug fix for you guys. My, new to me a month ago, 1991 ZR1 was running on 7 cylinders. Took it to the shop expecting the worst. One bad plug plug was all it was!! I'm looking forward to some good news for you guys also.
Hopeful that the plugs are not good tbh! We have an old set of AC delcos that have sat around for donkeys of years... and tbh the car ran "better" on those than the iridium ones... So some decent NGKs are on order to eliminate that as a simple problem... !
This may not be useful but I just "gravity bleed" the brakes on my '04 C5 Vette. Meaning do not pump the brake pedal and hold while someone else loosens the bleeder valve.
If the brakes are still a little soft or weak, try simply opening the bleeder valve on the caliper and watch for fluid to begin to flow out the tube connected to the bleeder valve. I have always heard to start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. You would need to watch the fluid reservoir and fill as necessary during the bleeding process.
It worked fine on my '04 C5 and was nice to flush out the old fluid. I did see some bubbles come out through the hose connected to the bleeder valve on the caliper, but it stopped and then soon it was clean brake fluid flowing slowly through the tube into the waste container.
I let gravity do the majority of the work and bled the brakes without pumping the brake pedal. It's more of a static bleeding process with less variables at work. X is constant, Y is variable. Don't pump, just open and let flow; close the bleeder valve and move to the next caliper closest to the master cylinder.
Nice! I’ve been fixing leaks on mine! The shift shaft in the auto trans seems to be a major issue on these. Soooo, I pulled the pan and replaced the seal, and tightened the pan bolts and now, only the power steering cylinder is dripping. Seals are on the way tho!
I would check ecu's temperature sensor is in spec, it can cause an extremely rich issue if it's not working. It could also be vacuum leaks, causing the same issue.
My Mustang ( same vintage obd1)had the same issue, and I had to replace all the lines. Get a cheap Smoke tester, It fixed the rich, poor running, hunting idle....good luck.
+1 for checking your fuel pressure in the engine bay. Checking the basics first.
Haven’t seen you test injectors yet. Send out for cleaning a flow testing. Also could use noid lights to test you have a signal at each injector plug.
Keep up the good work.
The exhaust system is NOT a dual system. The exhaust combines in the resonator.
Interesting - We assumed it was separate but haven't really looked.
Bros, love your channel. Just 2 dudes in the driveway trying to fix shxt. Lol hey if there's 1 UK English word, I wish we could import across the pond is RUBISH 🤣🤣🤣 it's not often used here LOL. idk why, but that makes me laugh every time.. I know that's random, but what the hell 😂 good luck guys
Thanks John!! You know what's RUBBISH? Our impossible to find bugs on this darned car!! :) (we don't say darned much in the UK!) Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
@Auto_Funk we say darned when we re trying to censor ourselves 🤣🤣🤣🤣.. heey did you guys ever hook up your ECU or PCM to your fellow Britts corvette to see if that was the problem??
@@johncollins9989 Ha! Always a challenge... Especially trying not to curse on YT at this cockamimi vette when it invariably never works properly... We did and it's coming up right here in a couple of hours, all will be revealed :)
@Auto_Funk awesome fellas... can't wait.. let me just tell you, if you ever get it running right you're gonna have one hell of a car. Just wanted to encourage you to keep going.. there's so much help out there on line. Too bad you're not in the states where you could have a GM tech look at it.. but anyways love your content stay strong fellas
Stick with it guys . Your accumulation of knowledge , experience and contacts will hold you in good stead for the future . Guys like Vincent are everywhere , we just have to find them . Agreed - crappy weather for July 👍
Thanks Dave! Hopefully we will get there and see this beast live again. Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi... !
Great video guys
Great content guys. I have watched the whole series. The thing I would say is do a compression test...as a matter of course on an engine that has been stood. Some of the valves have been in the open position for many years and may have corrosion or sticking. I'm not saying this is your problem but will give a good indication of condition.
im not a watch guy, but im really really like your watch, thats why i bought one for myself, the yellow dial just looks so cool like it a lot, great taste 😄
This must be a frustrating project. Don’t give up, you’ll get there eventually
We will eventually :)! We are getting close! Thankyou for the support!
I think the crank sensor code is a red herring, the poor idle can cause it to throw that code.
I would check resistance on the ignition leads and get new plugs. Also - and I don't want to say it, check cam timing, could be a failing tensioner or stretched chain. (I don't know anything about Corvettes these are just things to check.)
You definitely could be on to something - We have the new plugs now so will get those fitted in the next installment and see what difference it makes... Other unknown is still the 02 sensors which we haven't replaced yet because the car ideally needs to go on a ramp to do so! Thanks for the tips!
Hello again, boys. Try to open the ecm and take a look inside , maybe corrosion, muse nest. I had a lot of luck cleaning moduls with a soft brush and an electric cleaner
I just change the brakes on my zr-1 92. And flush all of that nasty fluid out. Handbrake and brakes are awsome. Just cracked the nippels and let it gravity bleed it self. And did the last bleed the same way you.guys did it. Perfect
Thanks for the tips! Re the ECM - You'll want to check out our latest video ! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time when it drops... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
Are you boys 100% sure you have the firing order right? It sounds like a good old fashioned miss fire to me. Maybe the coil packs are dodgy? I'd stick all the plugs where I could see em sparking and make sure they're all getting a strong spark. Good luck!
Hi Ash! You know we've asked ourselves that but we've checked it about 10 times so it must be right! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
Are both fuel pumps running ? I would stick a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see what’s going on when cranking.
Only use OEM plugs. Others can cause ignition issues. Have you guys done a full compression and leak down test? Would be a good first place to start. Should also check the cam and crank sensor while it’s in the car. Should be a square waveform. If you don’t have a perfect square waveform that can cause issues. Could have a leading or trailing edge of the square wave dropping off
Also, avoid Denso plugs. Use NGK, eventually Beru, Bosch or Champion.
I see you have the machine that goes PING!
most expensive machine in the hospital....
Have you considered opening the ecu to make a visual inspection? I've repaired water ingress damage on ecu's on numerous occasions...
We have - And if you watch this weeks vid (landing today at 6pm UK time!!) you might just see inside our ECU!
When cleaning plugs use a little hand held blow torch to heat them up hot to clean them. You don’t need to scrub them and possible depositing foreign material. You’re just simulating a hot engine doing it this way and it’s safe
Take your time and do it right. Love it so far..
Thanks James! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat!
Hey guys love the content! I can't remember if you changed the plug wires ?? I think I remember you did but if not that could potentially be the problem. The symptoms certainly are consistent with potential bad plug wires especially acting up when it's wet out.
Sometimes you think it would be easier if something obvious and mechanical
failed, rather than having to try and find an electrical or ECU fault.
But I would have thought it would be possible, if its something like a fault with the ECU,
to get it fixed somewhere in the UK, rather than sending it all the way over to America.
You have some of the best car related workshops and businesses in the world, located in the UK.
Hopefully you can get to the bottom of the issue and get closer to seeing it running at last.
Love the vid's lads, you are both doing a great job of the car. Probably been mentioned already.....but on the last video when you moved it under it's own power, the exhaust was very sooty and smoking black smoke, and i'm guessing the plugs are black and sooted too. Check your fuel pressure and flow, cheap gauges only show pressure. Check plenum chamber again, torn gaskets, vacuum hoses, air hoses etc. The fact that it takes so long to fire up is an indication of where the problem lies. Were your injectors new or serviced units?
Gold bars ❤ classic biscuit!
you are doing a great job
Thanks Graeme! Appreciate the kind words :)
Penguin where the best biscuits
tim tams
@@londonman8688Tim tams now available in the UK
Gold bars are the best ❤
👍👍
given how rich it was running you have probably poisoned the plugs now. also, general experience of other ecu’s that cam sensor just gives it sequential fueling rather than batch fire, if it looses cam it should fail back to batch - so should still run ok in batch fire - many early engines were all batch fire. But don’t know this ecu specifically (read up sequential/batch fire failback on the ecu)
After spending my first year or so, chasing electrical gremlins associated with my Optispark distributor, I feel your pain. These cars can give you all sorts of codes that may be unrelated to the actual problem.
Do love a gold bar 🤣🤣well done guys hope you sort the running and idle issue guys be nice to hear it running right 👍🏽👍🏽
Cheers Jeff! Can't beat a Gold bar eh!! :) :) Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
@@Auto_Funk thanks mate I will if I ever get the car and motor home polished on time back to the office tommorow 😂😂😭😭
@@jeffshaw4553 ha!! You’d better get back to work then! 😬😫😁
@@Auto_Funk you know mate 🤣feel more tired having time off than actually working 🤣🤣
@jeffshaw4553 ha !! I know the feeling….!
Reference Spark plugs cross reference NGK PLATINUM PTR5D-10 spot on these. 💪💪✨✨ hope that helps.
Couldn't agree more... NGK in our opinion are the best. Never had any issues with NGKs either. They just work! We have ordered some NGKs of what we think are the correct type.
@@Auto_Funk the ptr5d-10 are the correct stem and shaft length. Platinums because they’re a pain in the arse to change. 😂😂😂💪💪💪
@@Auto_Funk about £65 from eurocarpart 💪💪👌
Are you getting any codes? I don't remember from prior videos. The start up could be a weak spark. Coil pack failures can happen and the contacts can also be dirty.
Check the signal ground on the wire from the sensor to the ecu. The wire has an integral ground that is used as a shield this can break down over time.
Thanks Damian! Tried it off camera... All the grounds are good :( Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest and rather positive update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
With the ecu there must be a lot of people in the uk who can fix that mark tweed at gt motor sport in sot in the uk might be able to help you with ecu problems he’s very good at remaps and ecu work but don’t know on USA cars
Thanks - The trouble is I think due to the arrangement with the power mode (16 injectors etc) it falls outside standard ecu repairs... I reckon the people that can fix them are those that have access to the original repair shop test kit, there is an engineer in Canada who repairs them by piggybacking an arduino with a custom program to circumvent one of the now-NLA IC's but it's very expensive... We will make some more enquiries but support seems very limited so far
@@Auto_Funk I hope you get it fixed and mark a mate of mine is a Subaru specialist and has been since the 90s and a very good remapped and knows engines and existing very well and just trying to get you guys with a zr1 back on the road and will love to see and the car too
@@Auto_Funk he was the one who did water injection on turbos back in the day he’s that good
Where the shit did you get an oscilloscope from? As an ex science teacher i thought they only existed for slightly less boring lessons on waves and had no idea they had a practical use
I recently used a 25 quid portable o-scope to set the gain on a 4-channel audio amp I installed in my old E46. Making sure a 40Hz sine wave test tone audio input didn't clip, and to check the RMS voltage at the speaker outputs. So they do have uses outside the classroom ;)
Just a note on the cam sensor - is it a genuine part? Different vehicle, but my '99 Wrangler needed a new cam sensor and two different type of aftermarket ones would get the engine running, but horrible misses on load. Only a genuine cam sensor fixed it.
Oh good grief, she is being a right mare now lol at the biscuits got upgraded!
I could of missed it so apologies if I have but have you checked the timing? May be worth spending the time either way to rule it out if nothing else.
Not uncommon to get cam/crankshaft codes when timing is out aswell as misfires
Enjoyed as usual but definitely wasn’t a big update ☺️
Agreed! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... It's MUCH juicier! We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
I had a Kawasaki motorcycle that hated the iridium plugs I put in , put normal plugs in and it ran as sweet as a nut
We think it might be that we had original AC delcos which were old and bad... and the iridiums which the car didn't get on with and maybe... MAYBE this is the problem.
Also, I’ve just had to replace the master cylinder in mine and had to bench bleed the master first and then use a self bleeding kit using air pushing fluid through at the reservoir end. 👍
We will probably have to replace the master too!
@@Auto_Funk if you do make sure you bench bleed it first. I learnt the hard way 😂😂I’m a bloke and don’t like reading destructions. It’s the law. 😂😂👌
Maybe worth having a look inside the ecm and inspecting how bad it is.🧐there is a guy on YT who does a DIY reflow on his ecm. (Corvette c4- ecm repair) or maybe look at getting a professional electronics shop in the UK to reflow the board. Even though it’s a car the ecm is still just electronics after all. great vid guys. 😬👍👍👌😉
I don't think we showed it on camera, we did open it up and it looked like brand new inside there. But electronics eh... can't always tell!
@@Auto_Funk yeah that’s good then!! Maybe use the microscope on your iPhone and have a good look under light. Sometimes you’ll be suprised what turns up. Worth a shot and costs nothing. 💪💪
I think it was Jonny Smiths channel he had an ecu repaired in your country successfully.
really enjoying these videos and look forward to you finding the fault soon, do you both own the car 50/50? and the red corvette?
Thanks man, appreciate it! We own the ZR1 50-50, Chris owns the red C5 and I own the other ratty C5.... Not a bad position to be in eh! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
@@Auto_Funk awesome, thanks for explaining lol. I'll certainly try to be there 👍🏻😊
@blueman46 no worries! 😌 I bet a few people have been wondering, maybe we will cover it in a future vid!
@@Auto_Funk good idea, lucky guys they are beautiful cars 👍🏻
Ecu’s often fail due to faulty capacitors. You won’t need a specialist of corvette ecu’s to check those
Front to back for me as well
Interesting... traditionally you would go for the furthest from the master cylinder... is this a C4 thing? Cheers!
Cat fault codes don't always relate to blockages, missfuelling can contaminate cats, resulting in cat inefficiency, resulting in incorrect O2 readings.
Thanks for the advice - Makes sense for sure (y) I'd imagine ours are pretty sooty due to all the rich running, what do you reckon?
Gutters lol😅😅😅😅
Ha! Tell me about it!! :( (Llew!!) Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat! AND the gutters are not a feature of this episode interestingly !
Have you tried ATC Drivetrain ecu repairs to get your ecu checked. As seen on Car SOS
Old Ac delco plugs are most likely Non resistor plugs. Iridiums more likely are resistor plugs. That means there is 5 kilo ohms resistor inside the plug to reduce electrical interfierence. If the ignition ht side is weak(if you still have the old wires) R plugs will make allready weak spark weaker. There is no way that gaping a spark plug will make any difference to startup or to an idle. Unless gaps were completely off. Like shorted or 3-4mm gap.
Interesting - Thanks for the insights... This car is throwing us all sorts of curve balls and we are learning as we go - Tips like yours are really helpful! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
@@Auto_Funk Unfortunately I was out of town by that time. Glad to see that ecm has big part of the bad running engine.
Can l ask what are your day jobs? Where does you're experience come from? Great Video as always
Could cam sensor code be due to timing issue ?
Possibly... thing is that it has run on and off like this... It does / has sounded timingish though. I (chris) did wonder if the spark plugs being so bad that it causing weird electrical on and offs that could cause weird error codes to come up... but just spit balling!
Yes. VVT actuators when they went bad or timing chain sensors that are oil pressure activated all set cam codes when either one went bad.
Have you checked that the ground wire is still good under the plenum that you repaired in an earlier video ?
Good thought, unfortunately that is just the trigger wire for the starter, so as long as the starter is being triggered then that wire is doing its job. It could be a ground somewhere but we are thinking it is an ECU fault... or wishful thinking perhaps the sparkplugs weren't of the correct type.
Fuel pump/s
I don't know whether it is of any use to you, but the Lakelands Motor museum in the Lake District has a ZR1 in their display.
Wonder if they have a working ECU we can borrow :)! Might drop them an email... see if there is anything we use as references!
@@Auto_Funk No harm in asking. Even if you have to provide a deposit to borrow.
Yep ! Missing quite a few Basic things ! 😂
Skill... brains...personality.... competence.. actual sense if humour !
It's lucky one thing we don't miss is not giving a shit eh! Come and say hi in the live chat tonight during our new video at 6pm UK time :)
Check your spark plug leads and firing order
Firing order is correct, checked that a couple of times off camera. We are thinking it is possibly a spark plug issue though... or the ECM. :(
Is the music you are playing yours or a mates band??
@howardclements7871 - It's Llewelyn's band... Got a gig in Leicester on Thursday 29th Aug if you want to come ! ha!
Never mind , back to basics I suppose.
Yep - Each thing we try is another eliminator.... Eventually we will be cruising! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
I know what mucked the whole thing up.....lewellin cut his hair.......😛
🤣🤣🤣🤣
re the weed car , I bet your neighbours were thinking the same thing about the area with the car being repaired in the front garden !!!
No doubt :D!
I think you may have found the reason why the car was parked up
It's possible but we'd expect evidence of tampering/messing around and the car literally wasn't touched. Also the owner was a very genuine bloke and we think he would have been honest if there was an issue at the time... We think it might just be age/lack of use (assuming it is the ECM at fault)
Guys to bleed brakes when you open a bleed nipple on hen push the brake peddle and the keep it to the floor then close the nipple on each calliper until air is out of each corner off the brakes hope this helps and that’s how you bleed brakes longest line first to the shortest
Gutters haha sorry guyd
Painful Progress
Absolutely agree!! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... It's MUCH more positive! We will be in the live chat if you want to say hi!
Beavis & Butthead 😂
Big time!! Which one is which? I reckon I'm (Llew) DEFFO Beavis! he hehehe heh hehe
Take it to Rainman ray,s repairs simples
Never heard of him but he sounds like a legend, we will look it up!
These vids are just too funny ! 😂😂 thebway you two constantly overlap the same sentence !! 😂 muppets
Glad you like them! It's quite a skill to keep interrupting eachother but we're getting better at it... ! Love your comments! X
10 minutes in and you said plenum lol
Rockauto has an engine control module for the DOHC engine the ZR1 engine for $111.79 including the core cost .....you guys would want to keep it anyway. Part# BSE EM7727 hope this helps!!!!!!!!!! I want you guys to enjoy this car.
No, they do not. 7727 is the 90-91 L98 ECM.
@@chumpvette2291 Great to have your expertise, I should have known better to trust their listings/info....Are any of the DOHC computers they have listed from '90 to '95 for the ZR1?
@@watzonda2b Any year ZR-1 ECM will work in any ZR-1. Rockauto will not have an ECM for any 90-95 ZR-1. You can tell a ZR-1 ECM compared to the 7727 ECM as the ZR-1 ECM is thicker.
Mice nibbled wiring?? Take your ECU with schematics to stereo/computer shop for them to have look the card.
Faulty ECM? Faulty injectors?
Faulty ECM! Injectors are all new!
Forget the critics, I really love that T-shirt.
Reminded me of the American flag so quite fitting when working on a vett
Fix that belly....its wobbling for Britain 😂....are you sure u have continuity on all ithe necessary gnition power cables, it has been sitting for along time with maybe some mouse nibbling action?
Too many rich tea biscuits and gold bars... It happens to the best of us! We definitely do have continuity on the ignition cables.... The coils and leads are all brand new! Come and join us tonight at 6PM UK time for our latest update... We will be in the live chat!
Allways bleed the brakes front to back.
Dont sweat about content. And why are cam sensors so bloody pricey. My clk one failed intermittently presenting as a charging issue. Oh how I love modernity
It is odd, sometimes parts that you think would be expensive aren't and visa versa... the sensor on the ZR-1 is expensive because its an out of production part and basically they're just either rare/or you have to get a standard C4 one modified.
Think a basic C4 one is not much more than 20 dollars.
Optispark
Dude that shirt... Really???
Thought it might make the sun come out !
Typical home mechanics 😂 engine won’t run so lets adjust the handbrake!
Got to do what we can do at the time essentially! If something isn't currently working often the best thing to do is to do something else and come back to it! In order to look at the engine more closely we want to fully eliminate something as silly as spark plugs.
Its just getting worse and more boring the car is doomed 😂just sell it to tavarish or jack or jonny that way it will live