In dice making communities we have been studying this for a while, a few things we know: -Not all resins cause inhibition, most rapid resins and ABS resins cause very small amounts of inhibition, but water washable ones cause a LOT of it, this theorised to be because of accelerants containing higher amounts of sulphur found in water washable resins. -With most resins, waiting about 48h to 2 weeks is enough to get rid of inhibition completely, this is true for anycubic rapid clear, grey, elegoo abs like grey, and elegoo water washable green. -Polishing a pieces helps greatly to avoid inhibition, Elegoo Water Washable Blue inhibits silicone even after 2 weeks after curing, but if you polish the piece, it will have significantly less, almost good enough to get a usable mold -Inhibit-X is really expensive but it works with pretty much every cheap resin that has been tested, no alternative to inhibit-x has been found for any of the water washable resins besides Elegoo WW Green. Coating pieces in a myriad of different things, such as varnish, lacquer and primer, has also failed for all resins it's been tested on, inhibit-x seems to cause a chemical reaction of some kind rather than simply acting as a coating.
Wow, thanks for the info! I chose the cheap resin specifically because I think that's what most hobby level casters would use. I've tried a piece recently I left in a windowsill for a month but found it came out the same as uv curing 4 hours, then an oven for 4 hours. Still had those small bubbles, but not gooey. I'm currently building a vacuum chamber and will put out another vid when I've had a chance to test the results using it. Thanks.
@@RichardThompsonCA Yeah, i use a pressure pot to avoid bubbles since dice molds have to be completely perfect cuz people like shiny click clacks, but I know many use vacuum for the silicone and then pressure for the resin casts
@@TAiiNE It's not to harden it, it's to help prevent cure inhibition when making platinum cure silicone molds. It does seem to help. The theory is that the oven is helping it "out-gas" or otherwise aid in curing. The same results may be achieved by putting it on a window sill for several weeks.
Thanks a lot, I use Elegoo water washable resin, cured my prototypes under the sun and baked them for 4 hours and it finally worked with platinum silicone ! i had tried many things before that did not.
Hi, I was reading your comment, I have the same resin and I am having the inhibit resin, I was wondering to ask, what's the temperature of the oven when you bake for the 4 hours? Thank you
Adding to the info: I have had recent excellent success with using a food dehydrator at the highest setting overnight. No inhibition with siraya tech fast/blu 2 mix after 1 hr cure, overnight dehydrator. Bubbles not existent, though I use a pressure pot. Success with both Moldstar 15 and 37 silicones.
When you say with a dehydrator do you mean you out the silicone to cure in the dehydrator? Or you put the part in the dehydrator before casting with silicone?
Thanks for the time you put in doing this. I make teats for wildlife. 1/2hr UV cure then I heat for a few min at 150c then let cool and then heat for 1/2hr at 80c (just to be sure all sulfates are gone). After I use car cut and polish then a wax polish to finish. I degas the mixed Delchem 35A platinum cure for 5-7 min then pour and let it set in a pressure pot at 40 psi overnight. Perfect.
I suspect the wax is what's helping you prevent inhibition. I've been tinkering with shellac and other coatings. At the moment though I've put this aside to focus on screen printing. How long between when you print the parts and when you make molds? I've read online that letting them sit for weeks can also aid in preventing cur inhibition. I tried with a part I left in my front window for a month but it had the same problems.
It all depends on how much time you have. If you have weeks just leave the resin print off-gas naturally (photoinitiators contain sulphur) and you will be fine. If you don't have that time, try to use a transparent resin as it allows the UV light to penetrate better AND leave it curing or 24h. This last one has worked well for us in the past.
Great experiments. My inclination is to do tin cure molds initially, and remold in platinum, a casting from the tin mold (if the original tin mold has worn out from use).
I thought about doing that as well, but you have to consider shrink. Resin shrinks as it cures, which means every generation (copy of a copy) is getting smaller/thinner. If your parts have to fit with each other or another part, sizes won't match any more.
i've personally had a lot of success with a few steps of cleaning. using anycubic grey and clear. for me i generally will soak the fresh print in 91% isopropyl alcohol first thing, usually at least half a day just to clean, but any cleaning method will likely work. Then i put it in a home made 60W UV oven, usually at least 12 hours and until the fluorescing appearance goes away. I have a bit of freedom with the detail on my models, so i tend to sand them as well, gently with 400 and higher polishing wheels. That generally works, but also if you can leave the part at least a week before molding, that has given me every advantage and only a few hicups where i was impatient or careless. Otherwise i do spray the end model with ease release 200
In the nail art community (gel nail polish is uv-cured resin) wiping the inhibition layer off with isopropyl alcohol is standard practice. I was honestly surprised to see this guy trialing all of these various chemicals--some of which are incredibly dangerous to use. I guess these different communities don't normally have much overlap.
I didn't know that about gel nail polish. My understanding is the outer layer of uv resin doesn't cure due to oxygen in the atmosphere, which is why some manufacturers tell you to cure it in a clear container of water. Cleaning that is standard practice for resin printers, but even after you wipe that off though, platinum silicone will still inhibit against it. I don't know anything about nail art, where does the silicone come in?
@@RichardThompsonCA No silicone in nail art to my knowledge. It's just common for some types of gel polish to have an inhibition layer that is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (because having uncured resin on your hands is a bad idea). There are some gel polishes that are called "no wipe topcoats" that somehow don't produce that layer. My apologies that I didn't catch the fact that platinum silicone won't cure properly even after wiping with isopropyl alcohol. I guess it makes more sense then that you were trying so many substances. That is quite odd! I assume that will be something the bigger resin/silicone manufacturers will work out as UV resin printers become more popular. Again, my apologies for misunderstanding.
@@jenthulhu No problem at all Jennifer, it was me who misunderstood. I guess we're talking a different language but using the same materials 😄And yes, there is at least one resin manufacturer who has come out with a platinum silicone that won't inhibit against resin. I solved my problem by switching to tin cure as I couldn't find a reliable solution for platinum.
@@RichardThompsonCA I'm glad you found a solution. I'm sure the industry will catch up. 3D printing is only in its infancy now. I suspect it's going to grow exponentially over the next decade.
As for the bubbles, I know most Pt based silicone say they don't need to be degassed, but that generally hasn't been my experience and I would expect to see some bubbles. I also wouldn't use the presence of bubbles as a sign of cure inhibition. Even with gentle mixing, you can entrap an shocking amount of gas and if that gas finds a something with a favorable surface tension, it will stay there without some outside force to move it elsewhere.
I appreciate the tests. Smooth On has a video on this subject and one of the things they do is wash the parts with soap and water after the alcohol bath (which is something I've been doing to help remove some residue for quite a while now.) I also suggest using some sort of air blowing device (like a hair drier) to blast the print and make sure everything is dried before curing. Some people have been taking to doing their cures submerged in warm water (and some even in glycerine) to not only prevent oxidation, but to keep the print cool as the reaction is happening and heating the print. The only critique I have is that the silicone should have been degassed in a vacuum chamber just to remove a possible variable. Likely not the issue, but still something to eliminate. I'm sure you've learned a lot since this video 2 years ago, and it looks like there are some good advise in the comments. Water washable resins are still advised to wash in alcohol because it works better, but it is possible to use water. I suspect some of the inhibition may ultimately be a product of offgassing. The oven is likely speeding the process up, but may need additional time just to breathe in general. Perhaps one way to test this is to stick the cured print in a ziplock. Not squeezing the air out, and a few weeks later opening up the bag and taking a sniff to see if the air is resin-y. Obviously if trying to mold with a model you'd want to let the gas escape instead of containing it, so this would purely be for checking the smell.
Thanks for all the info. I kind of (at least temporarily) gave up on platinum silicone and switched to tin cure. I've had zero problems since. I actually did this same sort of experiment with the tin cure (but didn't film it) where I laid out a bunch of things to test and had the opposite outcome, absolutely nothing inhibited. I'm not convinced platinum is worth the extra cost and hassle, but since I never really used it in any meaningful way I can't be sure. I've heard it said it's library life is a lot longer but that isn't important to me. I've also heard it said you get a lot more parts before the mold starts to deteriorate but I've also heard some refute that. At some point in the future, when I've got enough casting under my belt I will have to make some platinum molds just to compare the longevity and benefits of the two silicones.
@@RichardThompsonCA Completely understandable. Sometimes you just have to cut your losses and get stuff done with what works instead of messing around. Siriya Tech has a new platinum silicone that works better with resin prints (if you follow their instructions) but it seems to be out of stock whenever I look. Do you have any suggestions on which tin cure silicones are good?
@@GregAtlas Yes, I'm currently using smooth-on's Mold Max 30. I've gone through 3 or 4 gallons of it now and it's working flawlessly. I've used it with sirayatech blu and sirayatech build. It does require a vacuum chamber. I did try a bucket of their mold max xls II, but I suspect it was defective as it never cured fully/properly and the place I bought it did replace it with a gallon of mold max 30. I pay about $162 canadian for a gallon of it, it looks like the siryatech would come in at about $250 canadian for the same amount if my math is right. By comparison a gallon of mold STAR 30 (platinum) is about $306 canadian.
Hi, maybe it has been pointed out already: From my experience I solved the inhibition problen (Anycubic grey resin, just in case): - Curing under UV Light for approx 30 min - Soaked in Isopropyl alcohol for 1 hour approx - Sanded off every face and soaked again on alcohol for another hour After that I could use those 3D printed dice masters right away to make the silicone molds. Hope it helps anyone without spending a lot on Inhibit-X or other products, specially for people who is not making a ton of dice.
What silicone did you use? I tried everything and more and I either damaged my dice or still had inhibition. Same gray anycubic but I used Let's resin translucent.
What works for me is to not over expose my prints to UV. The most I give my prints is 4 minutes each side in a curing station. I then give my prints 3 fine wet coats of hair lacquer all over making sure that each coat has dried to a smooth finish before applying the next coat. The great thing about hair lacquer is if you screw up it can easily be washed off in warm water. Obviously it goes without saying that all prints fresh from the printer must be cleaned thoroughly and have no SLA residue spots left on them. Hope my input helps!
Thanks for the info. Hard to find info on this. I haven't tested yet (will be tomorrow) but I read somewhere that soaking resin prints for an hour in caustic soda would solve the inhibition issue. So I got my silicone and lye coming tomorrow, I'll see if that works.
Interesting! Looks like I'm going to have some new data to test. I've got some tin cure silicone now, so I'd like to test that. But also another comment suggested soaking in bleach and now I'll have to try lye. Thanks for the info.
Nice video! You made it! :) My conclusion were to use Tin-Cure silicone or coat your resin 3d print with several layer varnish. I would be curious about the Inhibit-X results.
Thanks! I'm going to try curing in a vacuum chamber next to remove the bubbles. I think, after that, I'll try tin cure silicone. I'm just glad I could get rid of the gooey aspect, that's half the battle.
With Inihibit X if you dip the Resin 3D print a couple of times, allowing the Inhibit X to dry between dips, you shouldn't have any issues. If you are patient, there is no cure inihibition(in my test cases) for 3D resins prints that have been cured and then ignored for a month or so. The time could be shorter, but I've not yet gotten around to testing times below a month. Typically, you want to avoid things that may contain sulfur(which is fairly common in a lot of synthetic rubbers). I suspect that the photoinitiators used in 3D resins might be the caused of the cure inhibition.
@@RichardThompsonCA Tin-cure silicone is the best overall option if you don't *need* platinum-cure. I've had inhibition troubles even after using InhibitX, but tin-cure silicone doesn't suffer inhibition problems, and parts I've cast in tin-cure silicone also tend to inhibit platinum-cure silicone much less, as well.
I believe you are incorrect about the Inhibit X contents, SDS only has to show hazardous parts and can leave out trade secrets unless it's hazardous. It's considered a mold release and I believe the naphtha is just the carrier solvent that allows application to the surface. The naphtha likely almost all evaporates leaving the actual active compound behind. That being said some spray coatings (clear lacquers) work as spray inhibitors but some also contain sulfurs so it's hit or mis and I was reading a forum recently where they mentioned a name brand that was used by mold makers for years suddenly stopped working since they changed formulas (but you can't tell by reading labels or SDS).
Yes, it looks interesting. I've read on some forums that other brands have platinum cure silicone that plays nicely with printed resin parts as well. It would get pretty expensive to test them out though. For me tin cure is the solution, way cheaper and guaranteed to work. There would have to be some substantial proven benefits to platinum for me to try it again.
@@RichardThompsonCA Yes, I get the production cost issue over platinum. I was going by Robert Tolone's review on this. I'm interested as it's FDA food safe, so good enough for food molds, kitchen utensils, etc.
i guess the platinum catalysator catalyses some reactions with plasticizers in the resin, maybe even some hydrogen gas formation, thus the bubbles on the interface surface, the reduction of cure inhibition after baking of volatile plasticizers and an observation of increased brittleness afterwards, so basically 3 ways, inactivate the platinum, remove/inactivate the plasticizer on the surface (also considering diffusion processes along a concentration gradient) or sealing the surface to prevent platicizer movement into the silicone eg. coating
Very interesting thanks for going through all that! Just to add to the knowledbase. I have had similar problems with an SLA resin print from a Peopoly Phenom. On applying a brush on coat of Smooth-on Rebound 25 Platinum Cure silicone it suffered from cure inhibition. Smooth-On recommended additional curing of the model by leaving it out in the sun for a few days as their materials specialist was confident it was just a curing issue. I also asked whether a coating like Inhibit-X would help but they didn't seem to endorse that approach. So I gave it lots of sun from all angles over a week then re-did a few test spots in different areas (it's a relatively large bust). It didn't make much of a difference, just a few spots hardened faster yet overall significant inhibition. I take it the safe route is Tin-Cure silicone? Smooth-On recommended their Mold Max Stroke as an alternative. Thanks for the video very informative!
I haven't tested tin cure silicone yet but from what I've read it is much less prone to cure inhibition than the platinum cure. I think it's not as good at picking up small detail though.
@@RichardThompsonCA I spoke to someone at Polytek and they said that SLA resin inhibition queries are increasingly common. They recommended this tin-cure silicone. www.polytek.com/products/tinsil-80-30-silicone-rubber with the caveat that a test spot be performed first ( I suppose SLA resins vary). I am using a brush-on technique and casting in plaster so they also suggested a Polyurethane instead of silicone: www.polytek.com/products/polygel-brush-35-rubber (am not sure how that reacts with different cast materials though). As for the difference in detail between all 3, platinum, tin-cure, polyurethane they say there is none. But I do know tin-cure molds can have a little bit more shrinkage, about 1% and they don't last as long, maybe 5 years or so as compared to platinum-cure.
I can also verify that Tin based silicone works fine with no inhibition. Cure the print and cast, no issues whatsoever for me with the tin based silicone I've used. And my typical cure time is a few minutes in my UV cure box.
I didn't specifically try acetone, although some of these chemical (like MEK) are similar-to/stronger-than acetone for some uses. I assume that acetone would yield very similar results.
Hi, I’m having a lot of success with leaving in sun for 2 weeks, baking the crap out of it +100 degrees c for 40 mins ( causes some browning ) and then soak in 50% bleach overnight then clean and use as normal.
@@RichardThompsonCA very much platinum. I bought a resin printer to make molds for silicone. Very disappointed when it made just slime. I just did a batch of molds and apart from heating damaging the mold a bit they came out bubble and slime free.
@@RichardThompsonCA it was just an experiment really. Bleach ( not scented ) seems to really clean out the part where IPA just cleaned it off. I soak in water repeatedly after then I wait until the bleach smell has cleared ( another 24 hours ) before I add silicone. Be great to see if someone else has success with this.
Hello. Im trying avoid platinum silicone inhibit with 3d printed resin. And i found out that baking at 50~80’c (the baking time depend on the silicone product i have tried three deferent platinum silicones) without uv cure shows the best result. Uv cure made it worse in my experiments. And i was wondering if you found any better method than baking it. Was there any progress?
No, I didn't make any progress with platinum silicone. I gave up and now use sirayatech blu resin with smooth on mold max 30 (tin cure silicone). I don't have any issues with this, no need to bake or cure, it just works together.
@@RichardThompsonCA oh thank you for reply. But why did you give up on platinum? U figured that with baking we can use it. I have heard that tin cure doesnt last long and become soft and easy to tear by time.
@@comojuk5671 By the time I had done the last of the experiments I had used up all my platinum silicone. I never got to make a real mold with it, and try making an actual part. When I bought the next batch I decided to try tin cure. It worked so well, I never went back. It's the complete opposite to platinum, nothing makes it inhibit (that I could find anyway). Why struggle when you have something that works well? On top of that platinum cure is almost twice the price of tin cure, and I don't care about library life, since I will burn out the molds long before they age. I would have to see some sort of side by side comparison of the benefits of platinum silicone when pulling parts. The question has been posted to some facebook casting groups I'm on and several others (with a lot more experience than me) say they've only used tin cure and platinum isn't worth it. I'm just starting out, so I really don't know.
@@RichardThompsonCA yes you totally make sense. I think i should try tine cure too and i see if it has no ploblem to use(durability,tearing) but i dont really know how long will it last. If it last only like 1or 2year its a problem for me i use want to use mold at least over 5years and over 500times of casting at least. I searching about the information. Thank you for your opinion.
@@comojuk5671 I don't think you will ever get 500 pulls from a mold. I don't have any long term experience, but the information I've read from real professional casters, they are saying between 50 and 100 is normal. Of course this depends on casting material, undercuts, use of mold release, etc. I think tin cure lasts around 10 years, but this is info from the manufacturer and could be just marketing lies.
You'd have to ask somebody that can afford $500 resin 🤣. But seriously, I gave up on platinum cure silicone, couldn't get it to work. Now I use tin-cure and Sirayatech blu, zero inhibition.
So just to help clarify your findings. SDS data sheets only have to report the hazardous materials in a product. So if there can be other non-hazardous components in the product as well.
I find it odd that naptha gave you problems. I mix naphtha with Vaseline to use as a brush-on mold release with platinum silicones and never have issues. I think the resin must be giving off fumes. I wonder if a day or two in fresh air would help...
The naptha didn't cause the inhibition, it just didn't prevent it as I'd hoped. The resin is the problem, it doesn't play nicely with platinum silicone. I let a part sit in a window for 30 days, still had the inhibition. I've since dumped platinum for tin cure.
These models were just test cubes so I could have clearcoated them, but my intention is to use this technique to mold very intricate models. I believe spraying the model with clearcoat will fill in some of those intricate details.
At this moment, I haven't found a way to make it work. UV resin reacts to the silicone. It's a known problem. Hence these experiments to find a way to get it to work.
still struggling with this and my prints are months old, they're still inhibiting silicone cure, and to wildly different degrees despite them all being the same age. The only thing i HAVEN'T tried is baking them in the oven so i'm off to try that i guess. Not even casting dice right now, just small stones, this has been the bane of my existence since spring.
Sorry to hear that. I felt the same way, so I dumped platinum cure and went for tin cure silicone. I honestly couldn't find anything to make it inhibit (the opposite of platinum), I put it on freshly printed parts, cheap sulfur clay, etc. The stuff just works, I'm wondering now why everyone keeps recommending platinum cure silicone.
@@RichardThompsonCA Platinum cure don't shrink as much and the mold seems to last longer ... I think if using tin cure might want to make the master slightly larger since mold shrinkage with tin cure added to the resin shrinkage?
I think I'll experiment with coating a resin print with wax, PVA (airbrush), and mold release spray. The piece I want to cast doesn't have fine detail that would be affected by thin coats of these materials. I want the strength of platinum-cured silicone for this project.
Good info in here... Figuring out exactly what causes cure inhibition is a pain. I did not know about Nitrile gloves which is what I use. I thought htat was supposed to be safe! It may be the culpret of many mistakes. So thanks, that was valuable to me. The bubbles are a degassing thing. Also you can do a high pour, that helps a little. Im fairly certain the bubbles have absolutely nothing to do with cure inhibition. If you look at your tests, the bubbles were on the undersides of the pieces right? They cant rise. They do like to cling to sides too, but undersides of anything are where they love to collect. You gotta think about how you cast it. You might be better off using a brush on mold that works in layers for something like that. Or pressure casting, or pressure casting the mold itself, which I dont have experience with. (I dont do 3D printed anything, but I'm a sculptor and make molds using this specific material and others, so there is overlap in knowledge).
I'm glad you found it valuable. Actually I believe there's only one kind of glove material that doesn't cause cure inhibition, I can't remember the name but they are those really crappy clear plastic ones, you get them with hair dying kits. I'm going to do the vacuum curing next, I'll make another video depending on the results. Cheers.
@@RichardThompsonCA Vacuum degas the rubber first, before you apply it. Make sure its in a countainer at least twice the volume of hte rubber, because it expands that much. Then, maybe vacuum degassing during cure too. Not sure about that second part. Im about to try that myself.
@@RichardThompsonCA You are thinking of vinyl gloves. I'm allergic to nitrile, which is what most people reccomend. Latex can also have this issue. The sulfur comes from the powder applied to the gloves. Powderless gloves can help. I have some Polychloroprene gloves as well I'm looking to test as I keep these expensive gloves for clients with latex allergies.
I have spent the last 3 months trying and failing to get baking, extra curing and all sorts of other inhibition prevention using the anycubic gray resin. I spent more of my time and trial and error trying to avoid spending $65. If you are unsure if it is really necessary, just buy it. You will save money on remaking molds and hours of your time. If you fail more than once and you make more than minimum wage, it is very much worth your money over your time. Just do it.
Great video! But I tried it with my prints (same resin and printer as yours) and they all got cracks and warped :/ Did you have this problem while testing?
@@throri4249 Hmm, I'm not sure what happened there. I've done this technique with two different resins, the elegoo standard grey and the phrozen water washable grey and neither one cracked. I was doing 4 hours of UV cure and 4 Hours in the oven at 82 degrees Celsius. I still use this technique on the parts I'm currently making to cast and have not had warping or cracking problems. I left one in the oven overnight and it did become very brittle but didn't crack unless dropped, and did not warp. Could it be that your oven's temp display isn't accurate? Maybe too hot? Did you soak the parts in anything prior to putting in the oven? I'm working on something new now, with a different (tin cure) silicone and shellac for a coating. If it works out I'll post a video.
I also think it might be the oven. I will try a lower temperature. I had them in an ultrasonic cleaner with isopropanol, but that shouldn't be a problem because it evaporates, right? Were your prints in the oven on a tray or on a rack? Good luck with your new technique!
i appreciate the work going into the test, but at a certain point, things boil down to time. i think one option for this when a chemical or product is suggested, is to use actual branded naptha , because when using cement thinner the result still an unknown; additionally one work around which requires a vacuum chamber is to use mold MAX 40. with that you should be able to print, and then make a mold no issues. (of course test)
Heat on a metal airbrush cup there is a way to thin it but I was a grunt. LOL! I did hand rub it onto concrete for lawn ornament but that had far less detail. Modge Podge can seal surfaces and it water based..@@RichardThompsonCA
I tried pledge wax on spray paint today and had sticky cure inhibition. Seems paint fumes cause issue even on well dried parts. I will clean out mold best I can and pour a squish coat of well mixed clear if need be.@@RichardThompsonCA
So none of these were poured with a degassed silicone? Were these prints put through testing right after the UV and heat treatments with no time between that part of testing and the pouring of the silicone? If they were, the bubbles and cure inhibition leads me to believe that there is some compound in the resin that is off-gassing.
Off-gassing is also what I'm thinking, but can't rule out air entrapment in the silicone. None of this silicone was degassed since I haven't finished building my vacuum chamber yet. They were printed, Immediately uv treated, then heat treated the same day. Molds were made the following day, so not a lot of time in between. I have done the same experiment with a different part I uv cured and left in a window for at least a month but got the exact same result, not gooey but still small bubbles.
@@RichardThompsonCA One would think with all the discussion around this topic that the manufactures might think of something or at least comment on this part of the rapid prototyping process.
Really, what we're trying to do is figure this out for the hobbyist. Any medium/large company is already successfully casting resin printed parts. It's just that they are using $10k+ printers and $500+/litre resin. There are combinations that already work. Home printing to home manufacturing is still in it's infancy.
I’ve had this very issue when trying to mold a resin part (elegoo grey) with smooth-on 30. I’ve then washed the part, painted it with 3 layers of black paint and I’m gonna try to mold it again. If it’s a success I’ll come back here and reply to this comment!
Come on back. Did it work? I'm guessing no. For others, Using tin or platinum cure it depends on the chemistry of the resin. Tin might work for some but if there is sulphur in it you need platinum cure.
I've got some tin-cure on order, so I'll try that next. Just did a search for that clear coat, looks like i can get it here, I'll give that a try as well. I've also just got some shellac, I'm going to dilute that in methyl hydrate and soak the parts.
Hi! Really great video. Not many people go the extra step to ensure the hobby is available to someone who can only afford cheap alternatives! Anyway i was wondering, isn't baking resin in the oven highly toxic? And have you tried with a little electric oven? I wouldn't try to bake resin in the over we use to cook unless i'm 100% sure it's not toxic, and i have a small electric oven that i could potentially use to bake it if the result is the same. Thank you again!
I've gone in a new direction with this, I'm having mold masters printed using nylon in a powder bed fusion printer. It will be interesting to see if that material causes inhibition.
Best way to avoid cure inhibition with 3D printing resins is not to use platinium silicones and start using tin base silicone, no more dramas. You dont even have to cure the prints at all, just clean them with IPA, that's It.
In dice making communities we have been studying this for a while, a few things we know:
-Not all resins cause inhibition, most rapid resins and ABS resins cause very small amounts of inhibition, but water washable ones cause a LOT of it, this theorised to be because of accelerants containing higher amounts of sulphur found in water washable resins.
-With most resins, waiting about 48h to 2 weeks is enough to get rid of inhibition completely, this is true for anycubic rapid clear, grey, elegoo abs like grey, and elegoo water washable green.
-Polishing a pieces helps greatly to avoid inhibition, Elegoo Water Washable Blue inhibits silicone even after 2 weeks after curing, but if you polish the piece, it will have significantly less, almost good enough to get a usable mold
-Inhibit-X is really expensive but it works with pretty much every cheap resin that has been tested, no alternative to inhibit-x has been found for any of the water washable resins besides Elegoo WW Green. Coating pieces in a myriad of different things, such as varnish, lacquer and primer, has also failed for all resins it's been tested on, inhibit-x seems to cause a chemical reaction of some kind rather than simply acting as a coating.
Wow, thanks for the info! I chose the cheap resin specifically because I think that's what most hobby level casters would use. I've tried a piece recently I left in a windowsill for a month but found it came out the same as uv curing 4 hours, then an oven for 4 hours. Still had those small bubbles, but not gooey. I'm currently building a vacuum chamber and will put out another vid when I've had a chance to test the results using it.
Thanks.
@@RichardThompsonCA Yeah, i use a pressure pot to avoid bubbles since dice molds have to be completely perfect cuz people like shiny click clacks, but I know many use vacuum for the silicone and then pressure for the resin casts
I use anycubic clear eco resin with trollfactory silicone and have no problems with curing the silicone form 😁
@@RichardThompsonCA can I ask why you are putting it in the oven? Resin isn't clay, it don't need to be baked.
@@TAiiNE It's not to harden it, it's to help prevent cure inhibition when making platinum cure silicone molds. It does seem to help. The theory is that the oven is helping it "out-gas" or otherwise aid in curing. The same results may be achieved by putting it on a window sill for several weeks.
Thanks a lot, I use Elegoo water washable resin, cured my prototypes under the sun and baked them for 4 hours and it finally worked with platinum silicone ! i had tried many things before that did not.
Hi, I was reading your comment, I have the same resin and I am having the inhibit resin, I was wondering to ask, what's the temperature of the oven when you bake for the 4 hours? Thank you
Also interested in the temperature, let us know please.
Adding to the info: I have had recent excellent success with using a food dehydrator at the highest setting overnight. No inhibition with siraya tech fast/blu 2 mix after 1 hr cure, overnight dehydrator. Bubbles not existent, though I use a pressure pot. Success with both Moldstar 15 and 37 silicones.
When you say with a dehydrator do you mean you out the silicone to cure in the dehydrator? Or you put the part in the dehydrator before casting with silicone?
Thanks for the time you put in doing this. I make teats for wildlife. 1/2hr UV cure then I heat for a few min at 150c then let cool and then heat for 1/2hr at 80c (just to be sure all sulfates are gone). After I use car cut and polish then a wax polish to finish. I degas the mixed Delchem 35A platinum cure for 5-7 min then pour and let it set in a pressure pot at 40 psi overnight. Perfect.
I suspect the wax is what's helping you prevent inhibition. I've been tinkering with shellac and other coatings. At the moment though I've put this aside to focus on screen printing. How long between when you print the parts and when you make molds? I've read online that letting them sit for weeks can also aid in preventing cur inhibition. I tried with a part I left in my front window for a month but it had the same problems.
It all depends on how much time you have. If you have weeks just leave the resin print off-gas naturally (photoinitiators contain sulphur) and you will be fine. If you don't have that time, try to use a transparent resin as it allows the UV light to penetrate better AND leave it curing or 24h. This last one has worked well for us in the past.
Great experiments. My inclination is to do tin cure molds initially, and remold in platinum, a casting from the tin mold (if the original tin mold has worn out from use).
I thought about doing that as well, but you have to consider shrink. Resin shrinks as it cures, which means every generation (copy of a copy) is getting smaller/thinner. If your parts have to fit with each other or another part, sizes won't match any more.
I don't see how this gets around the problem since tin cure silicone also inhibits platinum cure silicone
i've personally had a lot of success with a few steps of cleaning. using anycubic grey and clear.
for me i generally will soak the fresh print in 91% isopropyl alcohol first thing, usually at least half a day just to clean, but any cleaning method will likely work.
Then i put it in a home made 60W UV oven, usually at least 12 hours and until the fluorescing appearance goes away.
I have a bit of freedom with the detail on my models, so i tend to sand them as well, gently with 400 and higher polishing wheels.
That generally works, but also if you can leave the part at least a week before molding, that has given me every advantage and only a few hicups where i was impatient or careless.
Otherwise i do spray the end model with ease release 200
In the nail art community (gel nail polish is uv-cured resin) wiping the inhibition layer off with isopropyl alcohol is standard practice. I was honestly surprised to see this guy trialing all of these various chemicals--some of which are incredibly dangerous to use. I guess these different communities don't normally have much overlap.
I didn't know that about gel nail polish. My understanding is the outer layer of uv resin doesn't cure due to oxygen in the atmosphere, which is why some manufacturers tell you to cure it in a clear container of water. Cleaning that is standard practice for resin printers, but even after you wipe that off though, platinum silicone will still inhibit against it. I don't know anything about nail art, where does the silicone come in?
@@RichardThompsonCA No silicone in nail art to my knowledge. It's just common for some types of gel polish to have an inhibition layer that is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (because having uncured resin on your hands is a bad idea). There are some gel polishes that are called "no wipe topcoats" that somehow don't produce that layer. My apologies that I didn't catch the fact that platinum silicone won't cure properly even after wiping with isopropyl alcohol. I guess it makes more sense then that you were trying so many substances. That is quite odd! I assume that will be something the bigger resin/silicone manufacturers will work out as UV resin printers become more popular. Again, my apologies for misunderstanding.
@@jenthulhu No problem at all Jennifer, it was me who misunderstood. I guess we're talking a different language but using the same materials 😄And yes, there is at least one resin manufacturer who has come out with a platinum silicone that won't inhibit against resin. I solved my problem by switching to tin cure as I couldn't find a reliable solution for platinum.
@@RichardThompsonCA I'm glad you found a solution. I'm sure the industry will catch up. 3D printing is only in its infancy now. I suspect it's going to grow exponentially over the next decade.
As for the bubbles, I know most Pt based silicone say they don't need to be degassed, but that generally hasn't been my experience and I would expect to see some bubbles. I also wouldn't use the presence of bubbles as a sign of cure inhibition. Even with gentle mixing, you can entrap an shocking amount of gas and if that gas finds a something with a favorable surface tension, it will stay there without some outside force to move it elsewhere.
well I noticed he is shoving the cubes into the silicone, which would introduce bubbles.
I appreciate the tests. Smooth On has a video on this subject and one of the things they do is wash the parts with soap and water after the alcohol bath (which is something I've been doing to help remove some residue for quite a while now.) I also suggest using some sort of air blowing device (like a hair drier) to blast the print and make sure everything is dried before curing. Some people have been taking to doing their cures submerged in warm water (and some even in glycerine) to not only prevent oxidation, but to keep the print cool as the reaction is happening and heating the print.
The only critique I have is that the silicone should have been degassed in a vacuum chamber just to remove a possible variable. Likely not the issue, but still something to eliminate.
I'm sure you've learned a lot since this video 2 years ago, and it looks like there are some good advise in the comments.
Water washable resins are still advised to wash in alcohol because it works better, but it is possible to use water.
I suspect some of the inhibition may ultimately be a product of offgassing. The oven is likely speeding the process up, but may need additional time just to breathe in general. Perhaps one way to test this is to stick the cured print in a ziplock. Not squeezing the air out, and a few weeks later opening up the bag and taking a sniff to see if the air is resin-y. Obviously if trying to mold with a model you'd want to let the gas escape instead of containing it, so this would purely be for checking the smell.
Thanks for all the info. I kind of (at least temporarily) gave up on platinum silicone and switched to tin cure. I've had zero problems since. I actually did this same sort of experiment with the tin cure (but didn't film it) where I laid out a bunch of things to test and had the opposite outcome, absolutely nothing inhibited. I'm not convinced platinum is worth the extra cost and hassle, but since I never really used it in any meaningful way I can't be sure. I've heard it said it's library life is a lot longer but that isn't important to me. I've also heard it said you get a lot more parts before the mold starts to deteriorate but I've also heard some refute that. At some point in the future, when I've got enough casting under my belt I will have to make some platinum molds just to compare the longevity and benefits of the two silicones.
@@RichardThompsonCA Completely understandable. Sometimes you just have to cut your losses and get stuff done with what works instead of messing around. Siriya Tech has a new platinum silicone that works better with resin prints (if you follow their instructions) but it seems to be out of stock whenever I look.
Do you have any suggestions on which tin cure silicones are good?
@@GregAtlas Yes, I'm currently using smooth-on's Mold Max 30. I've gone through 3 or 4 gallons of it now and it's working flawlessly. I've used it with sirayatech blu and sirayatech build. It does require a vacuum chamber. I did try a bucket of their mold max xls II, but I suspect it was defective as it never cured fully/properly and the place I bought it did replace it with a gallon of mold max 30. I pay about $162 canadian for a gallon of it, it looks like the siryatech would come in at about $250 canadian for the same amount if my math is right. By comparison a gallon of mold STAR 30 (platinum) is about $306 canadian.
Hi, maybe it has been pointed out already:
From my experience I solved the inhibition problen (Anycubic grey resin, just in case):
- Curing under UV Light for approx 30 min
- Soaked in Isopropyl alcohol for 1 hour approx
- Sanded off every face and soaked again on alcohol for another hour
After that I could use those 3D printed dice masters right away to make the silicone molds.
Hope it helps anyone without spending a lot on Inhibit-X or other products, specially for people who is not making a ton of dice.
ill try this out soon because i dont wanna wait for 2 weeks for my mold
What silicone did you use? I tried everything and more and I either damaged my dice or still had inhibition. Same gray anycubic but I used Let's resin translucent.
@@thesuki I used some common silicone, platinum cure I think is the common one, but I don't think this was a factor.
thank you so much for this informative experimentation.
You're welcome.
Any new revelations on molding resin prints? Great video/test by the way.
None yet, I got sidetracked on screen printing. But I will come back to it.
awesome and very detailed analysis.
Much appreciated!
What works for me is to not over expose my prints to UV. The most I give my prints is 4 minutes each side in a curing station. I then give my prints 3 fine wet coats of hair lacquer all over making sure that each coat has dried to a smooth finish before applying the next coat. The great thing about hair lacquer is if you screw up it can easily be washed off in warm water. Obviously it goes without saying that all prints fresh from the printer must be cleaned thoroughly and have no SLA residue spots left on them. Hope my input helps!
Interesting, I've tried coating prints with shellac but not hair lacquer, I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
Thanks for the info. Hard to find info on this. I haven't tested yet (will be tomorrow) but I read somewhere that soaking resin prints for an hour in caustic soda would solve the inhibition issue. So I got my silicone and lye coming tomorrow, I'll see if that works.
Interesting! Looks like I'm going to have some new data to test. I've got some tin cure silicone now, so I'd like to test that. But also another comment suggested soaking in bleach and now I'll have to try lye. Thanks for the info.
How’d that pan out?
Nice video! You made it! :)
My conclusion were to use Tin-Cure silicone or coat your resin 3d print with several layer varnish. I would be curious about the Inhibit-X results.
Thanks! I'm going to try curing in a vacuum chamber next to remove the bubbles. I think, after that, I'll try tin cure silicone. I'm just glad I could get rid of the gooey aspect, that's half the battle.
With Inihibit X if you dip the Resin 3D print a couple of times, allowing the Inhibit X to dry between dips, you shouldn't have any issues. If you are patient, there is no cure inihibition(in my test cases) for 3D resins prints that have been cured and then ignored for a month or so. The time could be shorter, but I've not yet gotten around to testing times below a month. Typically, you want to avoid things that may contain sulfur(which is fairly common in a lot of synthetic rubbers). I suspect that the photoinitiators used in 3D resins might be the caused of the cure inhibition.
@@RichardThompsonCA Tin-cure silicone is the best overall option if you don't *need* platinum-cure. I've had inhibition troubles even after using InhibitX, but tin-cure silicone doesn't suffer inhibition problems, and parts I've cast in tin-cure silicone also tend to inhibit platinum-cure silicone much less, as well.
I believe you are incorrect about the Inhibit X contents, SDS only has to show hazardous parts and can leave out trade secrets unless it's hazardous. It's considered a mold release and I believe the naphtha is just the carrier solvent that allows application to the surface. The naphtha likely almost all evaporates leaving the actual active compound behind. That being said some spray coatings (clear lacquers) work as spray inhibitors but some also contain sulfurs so it's hit or mis and I was reading a forum recently where they mentioned a name brand that was used by mold makers for years suddenly stopped working since they changed formulas (but you can't tell by reading labels or SDS).
Good point!
Very useful video, thanks for sharing!!
Glad it was helpful!
Just found this, have you seen "Siraya Tech Defiant 25 Platinum Silicone Mold Making DIY Kit"? Worth a review, and isn't that expensive!
Yes, it looks interesting. I've read on some forums that other brands have platinum cure silicone that plays nicely with printed resin parts as well. It would get pretty expensive to test them out though. For me tin cure is the solution, way cheaper and guaranteed to work. There would have to be some substantial proven benefits to platinum for me to try it again.
@@RichardThompsonCA Yes, I get the production cost issue over platinum. I was going by Robert Tolone's review on this. I'm interested as it's FDA food safe, so good enough for food molds, kitchen utensils, etc.
i guess the platinum catalysator catalyses some reactions with plasticizers in the resin, maybe even some hydrogen gas formation, thus the bubbles on the interface surface, the reduction of cure inhibition after baking of volatile plasticizers and an observation of increased brittleness afterwards, so basically 3 ways, inactivate the platinum, remove/inactivate the plasticizer on the surface (also considering diffusion processes along a concentration gradient) or sealing the surface to prevent platicizer movement into the silicone eg. coating
Maybe try 2500 mold release.
Very interesting thanks for going through all that! Just to add to the knowledbase. I have had similar problems with an SLA resin print from a Peopoly Phenom. On applying a brush on coat of Smooth-on Rebound 25 Platinum Cure silicone it suffered from cure inhibition. Smooth-On recommended additional curing of the model by leaving it out in the sun for a few days as their materials specialist was confident it was just a curing issue. I also asked whether a coating like Inhibit-X would help but they didn't seem to endorse that approach. So I gave it lots of sun from all angles over a week then re-did a few test spots in different areas (it's a relatively large bust). It didn't make much of a difference, just a few spots hardened faster yet overall significant inhibition. I take it the safe route is Tin-Cure silicone? Smooth-On recommended their Mold Max Stroke as an alternative. Thanks for the video very informative!
I haven't tested tin cure silicone yet but from what I've read it is much less prone to cure inhibition than the platinum cure. I think it's not as good at picking up small detail though.
@@RichardThompsonCA
I spoke to someone at Polytek and they said that SLA resin inhibition queries are increasingly common. They recommended this tin-cure silicone. www.polytek.com/products/tinsil-80-30-silicone-rubber with the caveat that a test spot be performed first ( I suppose SLA resins vary). I am using a brush-on technique and casting in plaster so they also suggested a Polyurethane instead of silicone: www.polytek.com/products/polygel-brush-35-rubber (am not sure how that reacts with different cast materials though). As for the difference in detail between all 3, platinum, tin-cure, polyurethane they say there is none. But I do know tin-cure molds can have a little bit more shrinkage, about 1% and they don't last as long, maybe 5 years or so as compared to platinum-cure.
Thanks for the info!
I can also verify that Tin based silicone works fine with no inhibition. Cure the print and cast, no issues whatsoever for me with the tin based silicone I've used. And my typical cure time is a few minutes in my UV cure box.
Have you tried to soak the cured resin in a acetone bath?
Awesome video, thank you for the informations. 🤗
I didn't specifically try acetone, although some of these chemical (like MEK) are similar-to/stronger-than acetone for some uses. I assume that acetone would yield very similar results.
@@RichardThompsonCA thank you.
Your video helped so much
Hi, I’m having a lot of success with leaving in sun for 2 weeks, baking the crap out of it +100 degrees c for 40 mins ( causes some browning ) and then soak in 50% bleach overnight then clean and use as normal.
That's good news! What kind of resin? Are you using platinum cure silicone or tin cure?
@@RichardThompsonCA very much platinum. I bought a resin printer to make molds for silicone. Very disappointed when it made just slime. I just did a batch of molds and apart from heating damaging the mold a bit they came out bubble and slime free.
@@glennkelly2120 I've not heard anyone suggest using bleach to soak before. Is that something you learned somewhere?
@@RichardThompsonCA it was just an experiment really. Bleach ( not scented ) seems to really clean out the part where IPA just cleaned it off. I soak in water repeatedly after then I wait until the bleach smell has cleared ( another 24 hours ) before I add silicone. Be great to see if someone else has success with this.
@@RichardThompsonCA btw, I’m just using anycubic grey or anycubic enviro clear
Hello. Im trying avoid platinum silicone inhibit with 3d printed resin. And i found out that baking at 50~80’c (the baking time depend on the silicone product i have tried three deferent platinum silicones) without uv cure shows the best result. Uv cure made it worse in my experiments. And i was wondering if you found any better method than baking it. Was there any progress?
No, I didn't make any progress with platinum silicone. I gave up and now use sirayatech blu resin with smooth on mold max 30 (tin cure silicone). I don't have any issues with this, no need to bake or cure, it just works together.
@@RichardThompsonCA oh thank you for reply. But why did you give up on platinum? U figured that with baking we can use it. I have heard that tin cure doesnt last long and become soft and easy to tear by time.
@@comojuk5671 By the time I had done the last of the experiments I had used up all my platinum silicone. I never got to make a real mold with it, and try making an actual part. When I bought the next batch I decided to try tin cure. It worked so well, I never went back. It's the complete opposite to platinum, nothing makes it inhibit (that I could find anyway). Why struggle when you have something that works well? On top of that platinum cure is almost twice the price of tin cure, and I don't care about library life, since I will burn out the molds long before they age. I would have to see some sort of side by side comparison of the benefits of platinum silicone when pulling parts. The question has been posted to some facebook casting groups I'm on and several others (with a lot more experience than me) say they've only used tin cure and platinum isn't worth it. I'm just starting out, so I really don't know.
@@RichardThompsonCA yes you totally make sense. I think i should try tine cure too and i see if it has no ploblem to use(durability,tearing) but i dont really know how long will it last. If it last only like 1or 2year its a problem for me i use want to use mold at least over 5years and over 500times of casting at least. I searching about the information. Thank you for your opinion.
@@comojuk5671 I don't think you will ever get 500 pulls from a mold. I don't have any long term experience, but the information I've read from real professional casters, they are saying between 50 and 100 is normal. Of course this depends on casting material, undercuts, use of mold release, etc. I think tin cure lasts around 10 years, but this is info from the manufacturer and could be just marketing lies.
Incredibly helpful. Do you make the silicone and the resin in the mould at the same time?
The resin parts were printed prior to placing them in the silicone. They had to be post treated and baked/soaked for the testing.
@@RichardThompsonCA I think he meant bake
@@zonepharmalabs8939 Oh, well in that case, no I don't bake the resin in mold. The resin needs to be baked prior to making the mold.
Thanks for the review. Can you please tell us which 500$ resin won't cause silicone inhibition?
You'd have to ask somebody that can afford $500 resin 🤣. But seriously, I gave up on platinum cure silicone, couldn't get it to work. Now I use tin-cure and Sirayatech blu, zero inhibition.
So just to help clarify your findings. SDS data sheets only have to report the hazardous materials in a product. So if there can be other non-hazardous components in the product as well.
If bubbles are your worry, as a dice maker, I find that degassing and then using a pressure pot leaves no bubbles in my silicone.
Well, I finally got a vacuum chamber, but I'm still working on the pressure pot. Thanks!
Wow. I feel super bad reading the comments. Dip or spray the part in paint or a coating so the resin can't touch the silicone.
hi so did pressure pot/vacuum chamber work to remove the bubbles?
I ended up buying some tin cure silicone but have't done the new round of testing yet.
Did you just bake the print in a standard oven not like a toaster oven?
Yes, just a standard oven.
I find it odd that naptha gave you problems. I mix naphtha with Vaseline to use as a brush-on mold release with platinum silicones and never have issues. I think the resin must be giving off fumes. I wonder if a day or two in fresh air would help...
The naptha didn't cause the inhibition, it just didn't prevent it as I'd hoped. The resin is the problem, it doesn't play nicely with platinum silicone. I let a part sit in a window for 30 days, still had the inhibition. I've since dumped platinum for tin cure.
Bubbles would imply that the resin was off-gassing. You should try letting the print sit for a day or so after the curing process.
curious why you didn't try spraying it with clearcoat? I thought that was a sure way to prevent this
These models were just test cubes so I could have clearcoated them, but my intention is to use this technique to mold very intricate models. I believe spraying the model with clearcoat will fill in some of those intricate details.
Can I mold uv resin pieces with this? A lot of these mold kits say they can't come into contact with UV resin. Thanks.
At this moment, I haven't found a way to make it work. UV resin reacts to the silicone. It's a known problem. Hence these experiments to find a way to get it to work.
still struggling with this and my prints are months old, they're still inhibiting silicone cure, and to wildly different degrees despite them all being the same age. The only thing i HAVEN'T tried is baking them in the oven so i'm off to try that i guess. Not even casting dice right now, just small stones, this has been the bane of my existence since spring.
Sorry to hear that. I felt the same way, so I dumped platinum cure and went for tin cure silicone. I honestly couldn't find anything to make it inhibit (the opposite of platinum), I put it on freshly printed parts, cheap sulfur clay, etc. The stuff just works, I'm wondering now why everyone keeps recommending platinum cure silicone.
@@RichardThompsonCA Platinum cure don't shrink as much and the mold seems to last longer ...
I think if using tin cure might want to make the master slightly larger since mold shrinkage with tin cure added to the resin shrinkage?
I think I'll experiment with coating a resin print with wax, PVA (airbrush), and mold release spray. The piece I want to cast doesn't have fine detail that would be affected by thin coats of these materials. I want the strength of platinum-cured silicone for this project.
Let us know how it goes!
How it goes?
Good info in here... Figuring out exactly what causes cure inhibition is a pain. I did not know about Nitrile gloves which is what I use. I thought htat was supposed to be safe! It may be the culpret of many mistakes. So thanks, that was valuable to me. The bubbles are a degassing thing. Also you can do a high pour, that helps a little. Im fairly certain the bubbles have absolutely nothing to do with cure inhibition. If you look at your tests, the bubbles were on the undersides of the pieces right? They cant rise. They do like to cling to sides too, but undersides of anything are where they love to collect. You gotta think about how you cast it. You might be better off using a brush on mold that works in layers for something like that. Or pressure casting, or pressure casting the mold itself, which I dont have experience with. (I dont do 3D printed anything, but I'm a sculptor and make molds using this specific material and others, so there is overlap in knowledge).
I'm glad you found it valuable. Actually I believe there's only one kind of glove material that doesn't cause cure inhibition, I can't remember the name but they are those really crappy clear plastic ones, you get them with hair dying kits. I'm going to do the vacuum curing next, I'll make another video depending on the results. Cheers.
@@RichardThompsonCA Vacuum degas the rubber first, before you apply it. Make sure its in a countainer at least twice the volume of hte rubber, because it expands that much. Then, maybe vacuum degassing during cure too. Not sure about that second part. Im about to try that myself.
@@RichardThompsonCA ua-cam.com/video/Ps-boHiWxz8/v-deo.html
@@RichardThompsonCA You are thinking of vinyl gloves. I'm allergic to nitrile, which is what most people reccomend. Latex can also have this issue. The sulfur comes from the powder applied to the gloves. Powderless gloves can help. I have some Polychloroprene gloves as well I'm looking to test as I keep these expensive gloves for clients with latex allergies.
I have spent the last 3 months trying and failing to get baking, extra curing and all sorts of other inhibition prevention using the anycubic gray resin. I spent more of my time and trial and error trying to avoid spending $65. If you are unsure if it is really necessary, just buy it. You will save money on remaking molds and hours of your time. If you fail more than once and you make more than minimum wage, it is very much worth your money over your time. Just do it.
65.00 for what?
Great video! But I tried it with my prints (same resin and printer as yours) and they all got cracks and warped :/ Did you have this problem while testing?
You mean the printed parts warped, or the silicone mould got cracked and warped?
@@RichardThompsonCA The printed parts cracked and warped from being in the oven, sorry, should've mentioned it.
@@throri4249 Hmm, I'm not sure what happened there. I've done this technique with two different resins, the elegoo standard grey and the phrozen water washable grey and neither one cracked. I was doing 4 hours of UV cure and 4 Hours in the oven at 82 degrees Celsius. I still use this technique on the parts I'm currently making to cast and have not had warping or cracking problems. I left one in the oven overnight and it did become very brittle but didn't crack unless dropped, and did not warp. Could it be that your oven's temp display isn't accurate? Maybe too hot? Did you soak the parts in anything prior to putting in the oven? I'm working on something new now, with a different (tin cure) silicone and shellac for a coating. If it works out I'll post a video.
I also think it might be the oven. I will try a lower temperature. I had them in an ultrasonic cleaner with isopropanol, but that shouldn't be a problem because it evaporates, right?
Were your prints in the oven on a tray or on a rack? Good luck with your new technique!
I use an ultrasonic cleaner as well, no problems with that. The parts were on a tray in the oven.
i appreciate the work going into the test, but at a certain point, things boil down to time. i think one option for this when a chemical or product is suggested, is to use actual branded naptha , because when using cement thinner the result still an unknown; additionally one work around which requires a vacuum chamber is to use mold MAX 40. with that you should be able to print, and then make a mold no issues. (of course test)
Part all wax can be airbrushed on.
Back in the early 90's I worked at a fiberglass shop making slides for water parks and that was the wax we'd use. How would you thin it though?
Heat on a metal airbrush cup there is a way to thin it but I was a grunt. LOL! I did hand rub it onto concrete for lawn ornament but that had far less detail. Modge Podge can seal surfaces and it water based..@@RichardThompsonCA
I get a lot of supplies from FibreTek here on BC west coast they may have a better spray sealant.@@RichardThompsonCA
I tried pledge wax on spray paint today and had sticky cure inhibition. Seems paint fumes cause issue even on well dried parts. I will clean out mold best I can and pour a squish coat of well mixed clear if need be.@@RichardThompsonCA
So none of these were poured with a degassed silicone?
Were these prints put through testing right after the UV and heat treatments with no time between that part of testing and the pouring of the silicone?
If they were, the bubbles and cure inhibition leads me to believe that there is some compound in the resin that is off-gassing.
Off-gassing is also what I'm thinking, but can't rule out air entrapment in the silicone. None of this silicone was degassed since I haven't finished building my vacuum chamber yet. They were printed, Immediately uv treated, then heat treated the same day. Molds were made the following day, so not a lot of time in between. I have done the same experiment with a different part I uv cured and left in a window for at least a month but got the exact same result, not gooey but still small bubbles.
@@RichardThompsonCA One would think with all the discussion around this topic that the manufactures might think of something or at least comment on this part of the rapid prototyping process.
Really, what we're trying to do is figure this out for the hobbyist. Any medium/large company is already successfully casting resin printed parts. It's just that they are using $10k+ printers and $500+/litre resin. There are combinations that already work. Home printing to home manufacturing is still in it's infancy.
I’ve had this very issue when trying to mold a resin part (elegoo grey) with smooth-on 30. I’ve then washed the part, painted it with 3 layers of black paint and I’m gonna try to mold it again. If it’s a success I’ll come back here and reply to this comment!
Certainly, let us know how it goes. I'd also be interested to know if the 3 layers of spray paint obscured any details on the model.
Did it work?
Come on back. Did it work? I'm guessing no.
For others, Using tin or platinum cure it depends on the chemistry of the resin. Tin might work for some but if there is sulphur in it you need platinum cure.
saludos tube buenos resultados con resina abs like, suerte
SEM 13013 Satin Clear Color Coat will fix your problem or use Tin-Cure silicon
I've got some tin-cure on order, so I'll try that next. Just did a search for that clear coat, looks like i can get it here, I'll give that a try as well. I've also just got some shellac, I'm going to dilute that in methyl hydrate and soak the parts.
Hi! Really great video. Not many people go the extra step to ensure the hobby is available to someone who can only afford cheap alternatives!
Anyway i was wondering, isn't baking resin in the oven highly toxic? And have you tried with a little electric oven?
I wouldn't try to bake resin in the over we use to cook unless i'm 100% sure it's not toxic, and i have a small electric oven that i could potentially use to bake it if the result is the same.
Thank you again!
I've only got one oven, so that's what I use, but I imagine any oven would work.
@@RichardThompsonCA And do you believe it's safe?
@@ZannaOnTheTube I don't know the answer to that. I'm fine with it, but you have to make that decision for yourself.
Insert "YEAH SCIENCE B*TCH!" meme here!
using tin-cure silicone solves any issue. Interesting testing BTW
I've gone in a new direction with this, I'm having mold masters printed using nylon in a powder bed fusion printer. It will be interesting to see if that material causes inhibition.
Can I get a liter of cola!!
Just order a large Farva
Best way to avoid cure inhibition with 3D printing resins is not to use platinium silicones and start using tin base silicone, no more dramas.
You dont even have to cure the prints at all, just clean them with IPA, that's It.
I've recently got my hands on some tin cure silicone. I'm going to try that next. Thanks!
@@RichardThompsonCA How did that go? The Sitaya Tech resin I use doesn't play well with Tin based silicones.
@@coulterjb22 It's working great. Siraya tech blu and mold max 30 work great together, no inhibition.
Or you can just use Tin cure like you’re supposed to 😂
Tin Cure