PhD in additive biofabrication here (basically cell biology + additive manufacturing + polymer chemistry)- what your doing here is thermal curing of unreacted monomer groups in the polymer. There is something called a degree of conversion, even in a solid "cured" polymer there is still a high level of unreacted monomer groups trapped. For all intents and purposes this is fine but applying heat leads to thermal curing of some of these trapped monomers and essentially "cures more" hence higher rigidity. You can even go so far as to heat in a vacuum oven under intense heat and pressure to a degree that actually evaporates any trapped monomer Depending on the monomer of course). I've done this before with on top of more aggressive solvents such as Polyglycolmonomethyletheracetate (PGMEA) in order to eliminate any unreacted monomer groups that would be toxic inside a human body in order to make experimental polymer implants biocompatible. Be aware that the more you cook you do eventually damage the macro structure of the polymer and it leads to extreme brittleness. A little heat (60-80 C)along with UV is the best curing option without going too extreme, they even sell UV ovens for this purpose (mostly for dentistry) but they can be a bit expensive for a hobbyist. Also always ventilate these fumes.
This is where we spent alot of time formulating the underlying mix for Hercules - it has thermally reactive elements so that it actually gets stronger as you bake it longer.
Cheers for the breakdown of the Video's contents. I dont have a PhD and "I" got what ya slappin down m8, the whole thing is similar in a way to baking Pottery or Ceramics in the Kiln, to short and its still some what raw in the middle and brittle, too long and you bake all the water out which makes it brittle also. In Short bake at the right temp and right length of time...... or am i batcrap crazy. Cheers from Downunder🙃
Is this reaction likely true of most non-specialist resins (i.e. everything from the standard resins, to "ABS like", and even water washable) or does it only apply to limited types?
This is great! Thank you for taking the time to experiment with the material. Just to add, the HERC Flex resin is specifically designed for thermal curing without cracking or degrading. This process allows you to fully cure the material and produce a non-cytotoxic part, greatly expanding its functionality. As a result, it can be used in applications where typical resins wouldn’t be suitable. It's important to note that light alone cannot achieve a full cure in 3D photopolymer; thermal curing is essential for a complete and thorough cure. Please be aware that most resins are not designed for thermal curing and may be damaged if subjected to heat.
I like to UV cure in boiling hot water from a kettle. I read somewhere that oxygen can prevent fully curing, and heat helps. I don't know if it's the best way but it seems to work for me.
Is any attempt being made to reduce price? While it does seem quite impressive, the barrier for entry is extremely high. I could buy an entirely new printer if I tried to buy the amount of resin I use in a given month.
@@jtjames79 oxygen inhibition. yes, water curing certainly has its place. I've never tried using hot water but the concept would be the same. Typically we water cure for small clear parts. works amazing.
Back in High School chemistry class we were taught that if you have to smell something hold the bottle away from your face and with your hand gently wave the fumes towards you.
They ALL put out around 4 to 5 harmful VOCs, even the ones that say they don't or have "low" VOC. There is a scientific research paper on 3D resin printing and VOCs and the results were NOT good (many cancer causing harmful VOCs are released in concentrations beyond recommend human exposure levels, even from the plant based resins - any anti VOC marketing is a lie unfortunately). You can find the study in the Resin 3D printing subreddit.
Hahaha yeah I was questioning that as well. Certainly smells better than 99% of other resins I’ve used. Not that I’m trying to sniff them but you can def smell it
When I tried baking a hollowed print it caused it to shatter after less then an hour. even at just 170f. there were plenty of holes to let out air but the heat seemed to make the whole print soft and the supports inside either expanded or contracted breaking the entire print
@@UncleJessy I read somewhere that oxygen can prevent full curing. I also read that a little bit of heat is good. So I cure my prints in water from a tea kettle.
I bought a cheap food dehydrator. After I wash in ipa, I let the models air dry, then put them in the food dehydrator for a few hours. Then cure em. My prints have never come out better
I used the resin from My Mini Factory and it was TOO soft after the print. I washed it and let it sit to dry only to find the parts were drooping before they could be cured.
In case you guys didn't know, @3DResinSolutions here in the comments is the company that developed and produces this new line of thermal resins. Atlas is one of their partners / distributors. 3DRS is one of the only consumer resin manufacturers in the US, and it's pretty cool to see them pioneering the development of stronger and safer resin. Just want to give credit where credit is due. 😁
@@shonoshe Atlas helped with test printing different formulations (as did we), but all the engineering and manufacturing is handled by 3DRS. I just confirmed with 3DRS to make sure I'm not spreading false information. ☺
$115 for 1.5 kg of resin... I was almost convinced, but I think I will still with ABS-like for the same results and 1/6th of the cost. I always bake resins, but then again I come from resin molding, and this is just standard technique in that realm.
I started using tenacious as I had finally used up my previous purchases, and it's a game-changer! They don't look as sharp to the naked eye, but I am pretty sure that is an optical illusion as they look the same with a coat of paint on them. But the tenacious prints are way more forgiving with being handled, and I think I will always stick to flexible resins going forward. That said... tenacious doesn't seem to bend as well as this stuff seems to... that's just unreal. But tenacious is about half the price, especially if you happen to find it on sale, so I am not sure if even more flexibility is helpful for double the price... maybe for some things though.
I can see the more flexible resin being great for small projects, but it seems that the larger the print, especially if it has wings, outthrust arms with weapons, or a heavy figure perched on a slim support, the weight will cause it to sag over time and also make it more prone to toppling over.
I built a toaster-curer but ran into a few problems. I got a turntable, but they kept warping and cracking under the heat. I may punch a hole through the bottom and keep the motor outside the oven.
I got invited to rapid tct by shining3d, but I already had plans for 2 professional events for the games industry, 1 Caextreme classic arcade and pinball convention, and a family vacation this year. So, my bank account is currently screaming between that and new 3D printer related purchases. I could have met the man, the myth, the legend, Uncle Jessy himself. I guess I will have to settle for the fact that Uncle Jesse from Full House used to come to my family Christmas parties back in high school when he dated my cousin.😂 I work at a college as a 3d art studio specialist, and some of my students started calling me Uncle Marcus out of nowhere, but I took it as a compliment. I finally ordered an elegoo resin printer instead of my usual go to brands. Thanks for all of the fun and informative videos!
18:06- Well, that answers my question! It’s still very cool and I’ll have to figure out how much a toaster oven costs and if I can get one for cheaper?!? But my real first thought was, how good is paint going to stick to it?!? I mean the flexibility sounds great……. until you remember that the paint you plan on putting on it might also need to be able to do that also!?! It almost seems like even if the paint sticks perfectly to this, after a few weeks you are going to have a bunch of cracks at each “bendy” spot!?!
I find it really interesting how much talk there is over the tilt vat feature of the Elegoo's. I always wondered if there was an actual benefit to the tilting vat feature of the Prusa resin printer but it never really got talked about much. What a difference price point makes!
I bought the Elegoo Jupiter SE and I have 5kg of Jayo standard grey resin but I've heard bad things about the resin such as it's crap and really brittle. I have been told that mixing 10% of Siraya's tenacious resin with 90% Joya it fixes the issues making t hem stronger and more flexible. Fingers 🤞🏻
It's a coincidence that you uploaded this. I was just looking for this info to see if I could do some repair work using sculpey, but wasn't sure if my prints would hold up to the heat! Thanks!
Hello, thanks for the video. Most of my work is engineering and has flat surfaces and I was thinking about buying myself a different printer. Could you tell me how things are going with desktop printing on the Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra? At the moment I have an Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra. Printing on it from the table is impossible, since it eats up the first couple of millimeters. Most of my work is engineering and has flat surfaces and I was thinking about buying myself a different printer.
@UncleJessy would know more, but it sounds like you are trying to get extremely flat surfaces for your projects? You may have more luck if you play with your anti aliasing to get a better gradient / smoother layer transition. You may also have some luck dropping your layer height down to 10um to minimize layer lines. Almost all resins can warp a little, you may have better luck printing at hotter or cooler temperatures, or using a very brittle resin that doesn't flex. Not sure if this will help, just spitballing. :)
1:31- So I don’t know if this is actually just a dumb question or not and you might actually bring it up later on in the video……… with how resin lets off a “toxic odor/chemical”, how safe is this really if you will be planning on cooking with the same thing within days?!?
I'm curious about why they don't crack. I've tried to put them at a kinda high temperature but less than boiling point of water and they tend to crack and break out of nowhere, and this is with almost every resin I've used, even the Sirayatech Blu. It's sad because I want to make molds for some polycaprolactone which is a wonderful material
I’m looking forward to getting my hands on some of that Hercules resin. Curious about how well it takes paint, and how well the flexibility is retained after a few months. And curious about how well it handles hollowed out prints.
Let’s be clear guys, ATLAS Hercules is made by 3drsresin, an American brand. They just launched that heat cure resin.. I don’t think all resins should be baked, just this new expensive thermal resin.
does the Hercules resin hold really good details still on regularly sized miniatures, for table top games?, even though it is really flexible? you mentioned the good print quality, but it was a larger "miniature". I dunno if that matters or not
Any idea if Elegoo is planning an upgrade to the Jupiter? I would buy that. Not ready to upgrade my original Saturn, but I would like a large format resin...the original Jupiter I find underwhelming compared to something like the Saturn 4 Ultra.
I was wondering something, I have a couple S4U and I am not getting fast printing like everyone else. Is this a setting issue or what not? Cause I get estimates in the slicer of like 1.5-3 hours on models and then when I go to print them, they end up taking around 6-9 hours For example, I have a print that I did that estimates 2h 38m and it took 6h 44m
ooooo new video! Just ordered my S4U a week ago so i look forward to it. Maybe im confused but on your S4 it looks like u forgot to remove the screen protector?
It's not really that crazy if you look up the recommended way to print from most resin makers suggest baking the resin to properly and fully cure the print, I assume we only UV only cuz A0 its safer for off gases and B) its easier to just UV till its bridal.
Im still amazed by the Saturn 4 Ultra. Its a fantastic machine and hands down the best printer you can buy for the price. It feels like a $1,200 machine compared to all the others.
I just don't understand the pricing on the 4 vs 4 ultra. The 4 is just the 3 with a new suit and tie... so save $50-75 and get the 3 if you want a solid basic large resin printer. But the 4 ultra feels like the price is a steal for the extra speed and improvements. I'm not in the market this time around (my OG 1st round preorder Saturn is still going strong!), but that 4 ultra looks tempting... I'll let everyone try out the tilting bed mechanism and see how it holds up for a year and maybe I'll pick up the next gen for a long overdue upgrade!
@@CaedenV I have the 1st and 2nd Saturn. I skipped the 3rd. This new 4 ultra is in a completely different ballpark. It's going to change the entire industry. Every print is flawless and it's 3 times faster then the old ones. It burns a layer every 5 seconds. 2.1 seconds to burn a layer, and 2.9 seconds to do the tilt. Amazingly fast!!!
Would be nice to see compare the Hercules after a half a year of so, could just be it has a slow reaction process, and becomes less flex over time, Also, for dropping it's nice, but miniature paint works best on a hard surface, could be it'll chip off after a while. Maybe try a percentage of both, so use the Hercules to get some flex in the Elegoo.
Why did you bake the basketball!? You should have kept it unbaked for more flexibility, assuming you were using that Hercules resin. Would love to see that.
Definitely looking into the Hercules resin for the stuff I might make for the kids, like Cali-Dragons where they'd have fun but not worry about it breaking.
What you are doing with the oven is just what happens to your print over the course of the next couple weeks. Not all components of the resin are UV sensitive, and over time all of those uncured bits settle into place and make things stiffen and firm-up. The added heat is just shaking stuff around to make them find more permanent homes faster. Anyone who has printed a super fragile mini, and had that heart-atack moment of dropping it right away, and the wave of relief that it was ok... only to barely look at their print the wrong way a month or two later to have it shatter into a million pieces has seen this at play. But this is why I NEVER touch a 'naked' resin print with my hands. There are still bits of uncured goo in there waiting to stick to your hand, and take a ride on a Cheeto to your belly while playing D&D (until the cheeto dust creates a nice protective layer over the mini!). Sure, its not much, but over a lifetime of being around the stuff, it could still have an effect. Even if you aren't going to fully paint your minis, slather a matte or simi-gloss clear coat on them just to have some amount of barrier and keep the goo inside of the print. Especially for stuff that I give to friends and family... always put a clear coat on for them. As a bonus, the clear coat will offer some UV resistance, so if a print gets some unintended UV exposure because they were left in a window, or left on the seat of the car, or outside for a while, they wont get 'sun burnt', discolored, and brittle. Lastly, that flexible resin looks amazing! Not sure if it is worth that price tag, but that is super impressive! I finally used up my initial large resin purchases over the winter and picked up some Tenacious to start printing with, and I thought that stuff was flexible! This new stuff makes tenacious look like concrete in comparison! That's just unreal to watch tiny parts, fully cured, bend 90* like it is nothing!
Your just drying the print thoroughly by baking it because not all the resin cures 100% within the layers while printing or curing so baking it cures this part cured resin
Depends on the resin from what I understand. Some is being dried, other is having further polymeric reaction. I'm not a photo-resin chemist though. Just going from what I've been told from some of the engineers.
U need to test a double layer honeycomb basketball otherwise it will surely crack in resin, I made one, it was tricky to do in Maya, it's close to the original file.
G'day M8. Now thats new, i wouldnt have thought to bake my resin. I would have to get in touch with my local Resin Company Monocure, to see what they recommend🤔. At Xmas last yr they where having some amazing discounts😳, and end up buying about 12lts of differant types🧐. So im right for stock, just need to finish my custom Resin Printer Enclosure from Printable Accessories for my Whale 2. But i have been liking my Neptune 4 Pro so much im looking at a smaller Elegoo Resin Printer to off set my Mid size Whale 2 . Really like your vids and made this 50yr old boy get excited about printing consistatly, i even joined your Patreon (iv'e never done that). kind regards from Downunder🙃....(Even with Disabilities, 3d printing can be done by everyone)
I've dropped a miniature made of the Rapid resin and the leg (and it wasn't thin) snapped off. However it was easily with superglue and I haven't had any problems with fix. I've also snapped off a couple of small pieces when removing supports (warm water, pre-cure) and again it was easily fixed with superglue with no later problems.
I just have to question what happens to your paint job when it is so flexible. I imagine it will just flake off, like my toy soldiers I painted as a kid.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I never go inside ovens to eat. 😁 17:51 "Make sure you're not doing it in any oven you are actively going to be eating in."
Speaking of baking and heating prints; try briefly blowing your print with a heat gun before you remove the supports. When you go to pull the supports off, it's less like peeling and more like falling right off. Kind of neat!
@@UncleJessy oh ok. bit of a shame. Maybe a retest would be good? but still even the unbaked ones seemed way more bendable. Herc ones esp. Be interesting to see how the none baked models hold up over time. Are they still bendable after 3-6 months? seems much better to me if it is bendable. maybe not for painting thought. Cheers.
I would say they are similar but not the same. CNC K is much much more technical / analytical, mine on the other hand is not 😂 focused on testing a resin specifically designed for printing, cleaning, curing and heating at different temperatures for different results. Also, because it’s fun to see a different approach to a similar topic 🤘
PhD in additive biofabrication here (basically cell biology + additive manufacturing + polymer chemistry)- what your doing here is thermal curing of unreacted monomer groups in the polymer. There is something called a degree of conversion, even in a solid "cured" polymer there is still a high level of unreacted monomer groups trapped. For all intents and purposes this is fine but applying heat leads to thermal curing of some of these trapped monomers and essentially "cures more" hence higher rigidity. You can even go so far as to heat in a vacuum oven under intense heat and pressure to a degree that actually evaporates any trapped monomer Depending on the monomer of course). I've done this before with on top of more aggressive solvents such as Polyglycolmonomethyletheracetate (PGMEA) in order to eliminate any unreacted monomer groups that would be toxic inside a human body in order to make experimental polymer implants biocompatible. Be aware that the more you cook you do eventually damage the macro structure of the polymer and it leads to extreme brittleness. A little heat (60-80 C)along with UV is the best curing option without going too extreme, they even sell UV ovens for this purpose (mostly for dentistry) but they can be a bit expensive for a hobbyist. Also always ventilate these fumes.
This is where we spent alot of time formulating the underlying mix for Hercules - it has thermally reactive elements so that it actually gets stronger as you bake it longer.
Cheers for the breakdown of the Video's contents. I dont have a PhD and "I" got what ya slappin down m8, the whole thing is similar in a way to baking Pottery or Ceramics in the Kiln, to short and its still some what raw in the middle and brittle, too long and you bake all the water out which makes it brittle also. In Short bake at the right temp and right length of time...... or am i batcrap crazy. Cheers from Downunder🙃
With your background in bio-chem, would you consider resin jewelry safe?
Is this reaction likely true of most non-specialist resins (i.e. everything from the standard resins, to "ABS like", and even water washable) or does it only apply to limited types?
Yeah I'm pretty sure that's what he said
This is great! Thank you for taking the time to experiment with the material.
Just to add, the HERC Flex resin is specifically designed for thermal curing without cracking or degrading. This process allows you to fully cure the material and produce a non-cytotoxic part, greatly expanding its functionality. As a result, it can be used in applications where typical resins wouldn’t be suitable.
It's important to note that light alone cannot achieve a full cure in 3D photopolymer; thermal curing is essential for a complete and thorough cure. Please be aware that most resins are not designed for thermal curing and may be damaged if subjected to heat.
I like to UV cure in boiling hot water from a kettle.
I read somewhere that oxygen can prevent fully curing, and heat helps.
I don't know if it's the best way but it seems to work for me.
I have your tabletop standard resin and it’s insanely flexible! Thank you guys!
Is any attempt being made to reduce price? While it does seem quite impressive, the barrier for entry is extremely high. I could buy an entirely new printer if I tried to buy the amount of resin I use in a given month.
@@jtjames79 oxygen inhibition. yes, water curing certainly has its place. I've never tried using hot water but the concept would be the same. Typically we water cure for small clear parts. works amazing.
@@Annihilo I appreciate that thank you. that's a unique formula for sure and I think it will do well.
Guys... don't sniff your resin. Just don't.
Right on, the company has Cytotoxicity test results on their site but not a full material safety data sheet.
Agreed, but calling out that you can actively smell it. Don’t stick your nose in the bottle and sniff
If it smells like candy, why isn’t it candy
Back in High School chemistry class we were taught that if you have to smell something hold the bottle away from your face and with your hand gently wave the fumes towards you.
Too late already addicted
1:26 Okay it has a nice smell... is the smell toxic? What kind of VOC is it putting out?
They ALL put out around 4 to 5 harmful VOCs, even the ones that say they don't or have "low" VOC. There is a scientific research paper on 3D resin printing and VOCs and the results were NOT good (many cancer causing harmful VOCs are released in concentrations beyond recommend human exposure levels, even from the plant based resins - any anti VOC marketing is a lie unfortunately). You can find the study in the Resin 3D printing subreddit.
Hahaha yeah I was questioning that as well. Certainly smells better than 99% of other resins I’ve used. Not that I’m trying to sniff them but you can def smell it
When I tried baking a hollowed print it caused it to shatter after less then an hour. even at just 170f. there were plenty of holes to let out air but the heat seemed to make the whole print soft and the supports inside either expanded or contracted breaking the entire print
I'm no expert, but 250F seems a bit too hot. I think most engineering resins only require about 80C at the most.
Yeah I was thinking the same. Maybe another round of tests 😂
@@UncleJessy I read somewhere that oxygen can prevent full curing. I also read that a little bit of heat is good.
So I cure my prints in water from a tea kettle.
I bought a cheap food dehydrator. After I wash in ipa, I let the models air dry, then put them in the food dehydrator for a few hours. Then cure em. My prints have never come out better
Oh wow! I have a food dehydrator I wanted to make a video on years ago for PLA dryer but never used it. I might give this a go with resin!
I used the resin from My Mini Factory and it was TOO soft after the print. I washed it and let it sit to dry only to find the parts were drooping before they could be cured.
Just curious if you tried baking a larger model that is hollowed. Would that help cure the inside?
In case you guys didn't know, @3DResinSolutions here in the comments is the company that developed and produces this new line of thermal resins. Atlas is one of their partners / distributors. 3DRS is one of the only consumer resin manufacturers in the US, and it's pretty cool to see them pioneering the development of stronger and safer resin. Just want to give credit where credit is due. 😁
I belive atlass actually helped in development, as they had people which prepared mix and then 3DRS produced it.
@@shonoshe Atlas helped with test printing different formulations (as did we), but all the engineering and manufacturing is handled by 3DRS. I just confirmed with 3DRS to make sure I'm not spreading false information. ☺
$115 for 1.5 kg of resin...
I was almost convinced, but I think I will still with ABS-like for the same results and 1/6th of the cost.
I always bake resins, but then again I come from resin molding, and this is just standard technique in that realm.
I started using tenacious as I had finally used up my previous purchases, and it's a game-changer! They don't look as sharp to the naked eye, but I am pretty sure that is an optical illusion as they look the same with a coat of paint on them. But the tenacious prints are way more forgiving with being handled, and I think I will always stick to flexible resins going forward. That said... tenacious doesn't seem to bend as well as this stuff seems to... that's just unreal. But tenacious is about half the price, especially if you happen to find it on sale, so I am not sure if even more flexibility is helpful for double the price... maybe for some things though.
Not same, just similar results and afaik there is no certified skin safe resin out there for cheaper
I can see the more flexible resin being great for small projects, but it seems that the larger the print, especially if it has wings, outthrust arms with weapons, or a heavy figure perched on a slim support, the weight will cause it to sag over time and also make it more prone to toppling over.
2:56- Are you doing the opposite of what we are supposed to NOT do when it comes to breathing in the resin smells?!?
I built a toaster-curer but ran into a few problems. I got a turntable, but they kept warping and cracking under the heat.
I may punch a hole through the bottom and keep the motor outside the oven.
I got invited to rapid tct by shining3d, but I already had plans for 2 professional events for the games industry, 1 Caextreme classic arcade and pinball convention, and a family vacation this year. So, my bank account is currently screaming between that and new 3D printer related purchases.
I could have met the man, the myth, the legend, Uncle Jessy himself. I guess I will have to settle for the fact that Uncle Jesse from Full House used to come to my family Christmas parties back in high school when he dated my cousin.😂
I work at a college as a 3d art studio specialist, and some of my students started calling me Uncle Marcus out of nowhere, but I took it as a compliment.
I finally ordered an elegoo resin printer instead of my usual go to brands.
Thanks for all of the fun and informative videos!
I am confused. I thought resin prints can't hold up temperatures above 40° celsius? How can it live up to an oven?
18:06- Well, that answers my question! It’s still very cool and I’ll have to figure out how much a toaster oven costs and if I can get one for cheaper?!? But my real first thought was, how good is paint going to stick to it?!? I mean the flexibility sounds great……. until you remember that the paint you plan on putting on it might also need to be able to do that also!?! It almost seems like even if the paint sticks perfectly to this, after a few weeks you are going to have a bunch of cracks at each “bendy” spot!?!
Yes!!! Super glad to see this kind of progress.
Probably should buy a separate toaster oven for that and not use the one that you make bagels for your kids in the morning with
Yeppers! Nasty old dirty one like mine 🤘
Ok karen
@@disp3rsionAnd the Darwin award goes to
Yeah I'm sure second hand store have them.
17:51
already covered
I find it really interesting how much talk there is over the tilt vat feature of the Elegoo's. I always wondered if there was an actual benefit to the tilting vat feature of the Prusa resin printer but it never really got talked about much. What a difference price point makes!
The SL1S is blazing fast but $$$
Really happy to see the tilting vat from the Peopoly Moai & SL1S make it to some other printers
I bought the Elegoo Jupiter SE and I have 5kg of Jayo standard grey resin but I've heard bad things about the resin such as it's crap and really brittle. I have been told that mixing 10% of Siraya's tenacious resin with 90% Joya it fixes the issues making t hem stronger and more flexible. Fingers 🤞🏻
It's a coincidence that you uploaded this. I was just looking for this info to see if I could do some repair work using sculpey, but wasn't sure if my prints would hold up to the heat! Thanks!
Hello, thanks for the video. Most of my work is engineering and has flat surfaces and I was thinking about buying myself a different printer. Could you tell me how things are going with desktop printing on the Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra? At the moment I have an Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra. Printing on it from the table is impossible, since it eats up the first couple of millimeters. Most of my work is engineering and has flat surfaces and I was thinking about buying myself a different printer.
@UncleJessy would know more, but it sounds like you are trying to get extremely flat surfaces for your projects? You may have more luck if you play with your anti aliasing to get a better gradient / smoother layer transition. You may also have some luck dropping your layer height down to 10um to minimize layer lines. Almost all resins can warp a little, you may have better luck printing at hotter or cooler temperatures, or using a very brittle resin that doesn't flex.
Not sure if this will help, just spitballing. :)
How does it compare to tenacious? And can you add it to other resins to improve the resilience of a cheaper resin?
Great video. Keep up the good work.
During the baking, did you notice fumes coming off the oven?
I did not. I made sure they sat out and air dried for about 30 mins before curing. Then baked maybe 6 hours later
1:31- So I don’t know if this is actually just a dumb question or not and you might actually bring it up later on in the video……… with how resin lets off a “toxic odor/chemical”, how safe is this really if you will be planning on cooking with the same thing within days?!?
I'm curious about why they don't crack. I've tried to put them at a kinda high temperature but less than boiling point of water and they tend to crack and break out of nowhere, and this is with almost every resin I've used, even the Sirayatech Blu. It's sad because I want to make molds for some polycaprolactone which is a wonderful material
I’m looking forward to getting my hands on some of that Hercules resin. Curious about how well it takes paint, and how well the flexibility is retained after a few months. And curious about how well it handles hollowed out prints.
Let’s be clear guys, ATLAS Hercules is made by 3drsresin, an American brand. They just launched that heat cure resin.. I don’t think all resins should be baked, just this new expensive thermal resin.
How would this stuff work with printing action figures?
does the Hercules resin hold really good details still on regularly sized miniatures, for table top games?, even though it is really flexible? you mentioned the good print quality, but it was a larger "miniature". I dunno if that matters or not
Any idea if Elegoo is planning an upgrade to the Jupiter? I would buy that. Not ready to upgrade my original Saturn, but I would like a large format resin...the original Jupiter I find underwhelming compared to something like the Saturn 4 Ultra.
Thank you so much for sharing this Jessy! Really appreciate it.
I was wondering something, I have a couple S4U and I am not getting fast printing like everyone else. Is this a setting issue or what not? Cause I get estimates in the slicer of like 1.5-3 hours on models and then when I go to print them, they end up taking around 6-9 hours
For example, I have a print that I did that estimates 2h 38m and it took 6h 44m
I really cannot comprehend the lack of a mask being worn or promoted around exposed, uncured resin. Proper safety should always be addressed.
ooooo new video! Just ordered my S4U a week ago so i look forward to it. Maybe im confused but on your S4 it looks like u forgot to remove the screen protector?
Hahaha I don’t remove them anymore. And congrats. S4U is gah damn amazing. Love that printer
@@UncleJessy Ooh okay. Never knew. I just need to wait a month for the thing to arrive. but it will be worth the wait for sure!
2:43 You are getting addicted to this thing, @UncleJessy :) Soon you will enjoy the smell of all resins, ha ha ha.
Better not inhale it at all 💀
It's not really that crazy if you look up the recommended way to print from most resin makers suggest baking the resin to properly and fully cure the print, I assume we only UV only cuz A0 its safer for off gases and B) its easier to just UV till its bridal.
Did you try bouncing the ball without baking it?
Im still amazed by the Saturn 4 Ultra. Its a fantastic machine and hands down the best printer you can buy for the price. It feels like a $1,200 machine compared to all the others.
I just don't understand the pricing on the 4 vs 4 ultra. The 4 is just the 3 with a new suit and tie... so save $50-75 and get the 3 if you want a solid basic large resin printer. But the 4 ultra feels like the price is a steal for the extra speed and improvements.
I'm not in the market this time around (my OG 1st round preorder Saturn is still going strong!), but that 4 ultra looks tempting... I'll let everyone try out the tilting bed mechanism and see how it holds up for a year and maybe I'll pick up the next gen for a long overdue upgrade!
@@CaedenV I have the 1st and 2nd Saturn. I skipped the 3rd. This new 4 ultra is in a completely different ballpark. It's going to change the entire industry. Every print is flawless and it's 3 times faster then the old ones. It burns a layer every 5 seconds. 2.1 seconds to burn a layer, and 2.9 seconds to do the tilt. Amazingly fast!!!
Would be nice to see compare the Hercules after a half a year of so, could just be it has a slow reaction process, and becomes less flex over time, Also, for dropping it's nice, but miniature paint works best on a hard surface, could be it'll chip off after a while. Maybe try a percentage of both, so use the Hercules to get some flex in the Elegoo.
I would buy the Saturn 4 Ultra... If it came with a heater. Here in the UK, it gets cold when i orint overnight most of the year.
You can buy a heater to add on, but it is currently a pre-order.
Try DUDV2 PLA-B (Splat) I have an Airless Basketball in it and it bounces great no crack
Is that a filament? Or a file?
Why did you bake the basketball!? You should have kept it unbaked for more flexibility, assuming you were using that Hercules resin. Would love to see that.
peba is a filament that works great for these airless balls :)
Definitely looking into the Hercules resin for the stuff I might make for the kids, like Cali-Dragons where they'd have fun but not worry about it breaking.
Cool tests, thanks!
What you are doing with the oven is just what happens to your print over the course of the next couple weeks. Not all components of the resin are UV sensitive, and over time all of those uncured bits settle into place and make things stiffen and firm-up. The added heat is just shaking stuff around to make them find more permanent homes faster. Anyone who has printed a super fragile mini, and had that heart-atack moment of dropping it right away, and the wave of relief that it was ok... only to barely look at their print the wrong way a month or two later to have it shatter into a million pieces has seen this at play.
But this is why I NEVER touch a 'naked' resin print with my hands. There are still bits of uncured goo in there waiting to stick to your hand, and take a ride on a Cheeto to your belly while playing D&D (until the cheeto dust creates a nice protective layer over the mini!). Sure, its not much, but over a lifetime of being around the stuff, it could still have an effect. Even if you aren't going to fully paint your minis, slather a matte or simi-gloss clear coat on them just to have some amount of barrier and keep the goo inside of the print. Especially for stuff that I give to friends and family... always put a clear coat on for them.
As a bonus, the clear coat will offer some UV resistance, so if a print gets some unintended UV exposure because they were left in a window, or left on the seat of the car, or outside for a while, they wont get 'sun burnt', discolored, and brittle.
Lastly, that flexible resin looks amazing! Not sure if it is worth that price tag, but that is super impressive! I finally used up my initial large resin purchases over the winter and picked up some Tenacious to start printing with, and I thought that stuff was flexible! This new stuff makes tenacious look like concrete in comparison! That's just unreal to watch tiny parts, fully cured, bend 90* like it is nothing!
Your just drying the print thoroughly by baking it because not all the resin cures 100% within the layers while printing or curing so baking it cures this part cured resin
Depends on the resin from what I understand. Some is being dried, other is having further polymeric reaction.
I'm not a photo-resin chemist though. Just going from what I've been told from some of the engineers.
Airless basketball printed with Tenacious? Sounds like a good test, but I think it won't bounce as high as a real basketball.
MIX SOME FLEX RESIN MIXED WITH STANDARD RESIN. THE MORE YOU USE THE MORE RUBBERY IT IS.
Like some siraya tech?
So, do you do 3d printing as a job or is this just your channel where you show off all the new and greatest printers?
I bet the new thing he sent is a new wash and cure station. Which is cool except for the bundled the old one with the printers.
Did he explain the point of baking the prints? Did he want them to become brittle?
Cant wait for the mars 5 video ;)
👀🤐
lol uncle Jessy ain’t giving away the secrets
10:00 Cable failed the UJ Prep durability test 😂
UNCURED: you should consider that even though it's great now- it's likely to continue curing over time, so that flexibility will decrease with time.
aww so thought you were going to feed them to the Rancor when testing
U need to test a double layer honeycomb basketball otherwise it will surely crack in resin, I made one, it was tricky to do in Maya, it's close to the original file.
how much !!!!
G'day M8. Now thats new, i wouldnt have thought to bake my resin. I would have to get in touch with my local Resin Company Monocure, to see what they recommend🤔. At Xmas last yr they where having some amazing discounts😳, and end up buying about 12lts of differant types🧐. So im right for stock, just need to finish my custom Resin Printer Enclosure from Printable Accessories for my Whale 2. But i have been liking my Neptune 4 Pro so much im looking at a smaller Elegoo Resin Printer to off set my Mid size Whale 2 . Really like your vids and made this 50yr old boy get excited about printing consistatly, i even joined your Patreon (iv'e never done that). kind regards from Downunder🙃....(Even with Disabilities, 3d printing can be done by everyone)
I have an image descriptor and I see ... Elegoo Mars 5 ultra !!
I've dropped a miniature made of the Rapid resin and the leg (and it wasn't thin) snapped off. However it was easily with superglue and I haven't had any problems with fix. I've also snapped off a couple of small pieces when removing supports (warm water, pre-cure) and again it was easily fixed with superglue with no later problems.
100% agreed. For whatever reason super glue + rapid resin prints work so good together. Like an instant bond
I just have to question what happens to your paint job when it is so flexible. I imagine it will just flake off, like my toy soldiers I painted as a kid.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I never go inside ovens to eat. 😁
17:51 "Make sure you're not doing it in any oven you are actively going to be eating in."
Brilliant video, Uncle Jessy. Are you going to try a ball without cooking it?
This Resin Smells Great. Such a nice Toasty Woody Smelling res.........(thonk).
Jessy You Okay? JESSY??? CALL A MEDIC!!
🤣😂 had to call it out. Its hard not to notice the smell from the resin as it’s printing
@UncleJessy I'll bet. JUST be careful it doesn't lure you in with its sultry Notes of the Outdoors. We need you around.
I bake and cure at the same time, its call the Australian sun!
Sooooo elegoo send you the mars 5?? 🤫
Speaking of baking and heating prints; try briefly blowing your print with a heat gun before you remove the supports.
When you go to pull the supports off, it's less like peeling and more like falling right off. Kind of neat!
Cool video but I see no benefits in baking, and that's good, coz less hassle.
I don't know. Anything making my prints more brittle is a simple hell no.
PLEASE DO NOT HUFF THE RESIN FUMES
WHAT
Got here before the notification!
air less basket ball use pve filament
Now we need to buy ovens as accessories... You guys must really get bored.
So baking makes it more brittle. so pritty useless. well i guess thanks for the video
I heard he use to much heat It should of been around 80 c like 176f
Yeah it sounds like it went too hot with the standard resin. The Hercules is designed to be heated at higher temps
@@UncleJessy oh ok. bit of a shame. Maybe a retest would be good? but still even the unbaked ones seemed way more bendable. Herc ones esp. Be interesting to see how the none baked models hold up over time. Are they still bendable after 3-6 months? seems much better to me if it is bendable. maybe not for painting thought. Cheers.
This is genuinely dangerous, please put a disclaimer not to bake your resin. Unless I completely missed it
Danger? If u watch the vid he tests the prints...
$115 for 1.5kg... lmao.. don't care how good the resin is... it's way over priced, you can pick up a bottle of flex resin 1kg for half that price.
why did you include talking about how it smells and not also not saying its an oven you dont use for food? nearly 500k subs you should know better
He mentioned that at the end.
Why copy someone else’s video?
That’s like asking why do creators all review the same printers? Because they have different audiences and different takes on the same item.
I would say they are similar but not the same. CNC K is much much more technical / analytical, mine on the other hand is not 😂 focused on testing a resin specifically designed for printing, cleaning, curing and heating at different temperatures for different results. Also, because it’s fun to see a different approach to a similar topic 🤘
Its pier review work.
And incrementally improves the hobby. I bet we see heated curing stations in the next 3 years.