Відео

The gasket would be, but there's more to it than that. How the gasket fits, how well the parts fit together, what they are made of, the design of the parts, all of that will factor in. Most waterproof items with gaskets have the gasketed part held in place with screws, you couldn't just pop it on. Think of the back of a waterproof watch, the way it's screwed in place with a rubber gasket underneath it.

@@RichardThompsonCA wonderful! yeah it's just the gasket I needed to know about, planning on doing some small scale production with selective laser sintered vapor smoothed nylon held together with screws, just needed to know if the gasket would be up to the task theoretically. Many thanks for the video!

The beeswax part of it yes, but I'm not sure how the rosin component would burn, it might give off toxic fumes. It's not really meant for that.

I get mine from blankapparel.ca but I'm in canada. You probably want to get something from a local supplier. If you are printing discharge you will need %100 cotton shirts. I've used next level 3600, bella canva 3001, and gildan softstyle 64000.

The film positives (acetate) and the emulsion (coating) are both available from screen printing suppliers. I get mine here in Canada from a place called Green Galaxy in Toronto. Search the internet for "screen printing supplies near me" and you should find something. They are also available from Amazon, but might be more expensive than if sourced elsewhere.

@@RichardThompsonCA Thanks, I'll check it out. Convenient, as I'm in Toronto. :)

Thanks, I decided in the end to order some of the ultra-clear glass and do it over. It wasn't just the darkness that bothered me, the glass tinted the background colors really badly. It also would have been a paint to hide the wires up to the picture.

The pump I'm using is made by Robinaire. It's a 1/3 horsepower, 5 cfm, 2-stage pump.

I'd have to build one of those, I've never seen one for sale here in Canada, and that was just too much work.

Good timing! I've been going through Ren and Stimpy reference images looking for a favorite. No ETA though.

@@RichardThompsonCA oh, that’s great, did you have any favorites so far?

@@hotdogmanmayochup5599 I'm definitely leaning towards magic nose goblins.

If you mean the mold that's cut down the sides, yes I cut that after it was made. It's just done with an xacto knife. I made the cut wavy so the parts would interlock together.

This is the SDS sheet for the product: msdsdigital.com/system/files/ALUMILITE%20FLEX.pdf . It doesn't explicitly state one way or another. So I'm not sure. When I search for "is urethane elastomer food safe" I get this: "Polyurethane is resistant to mineral and vegetable oils, and aromatic hydrocarbons, making it a perfect choice for food grade applications."

the thumbnail and title say they're mould cases though, which is accurate.

If you mean "which one is better?", I guess it would depend on the mechanical needs of your part and how quickly you need to cast parts. I don't know what the hardest silicone is but urethane can be as hard as epoxy. Also, the urethane I have sets in 4 minutes, I've not seen a silicone product that was that quick (although I could be completely wrong, I've only limited experience casting).

I get them cut to size for me, either from the local hardware store or a glass shop.

Thanks, I don't like the wonky reflections you get from acetate.

Good point!

The background is 16 x 20 inches and it's Masonite (high density fiberboard) that's been painted with a few coats of white gesso.

I watched a video here on UA-cam (which I can't seem to find now) that showed behind the scenes of an animation studio (I think it was Disney or WB) decades ago, and they said something like "the linework is transferred onto the cel with a special process" but they never showed what that was. It may have been some sort of laser copier, or maybe more closely related to the tech they used to use back in the 80's to make blueprints from drawings. I have no idea. I don't believe they drew each one. You can't get the thick and thin liveliness in the linework like Disney has with either a dip pen or tech pen. I think it would have to have been transferred somehow. I think for your purposes a tech pen would work better. You're likely to get the ink sucked out onto the acetate from a dip pen. I would recommend experimenting first. Acetate ink is getting harder to find (at least for me). Once I run out of my old stock I think I'll only be able to get it from Amazon, and it's $40 for 3/4 of an ounce. Edit: check out this video ua-cam.com/video/il8bP4ZS4Vc/v-deo.htmlsi=lFpgunJDhTD92Zam I get the feeling the transfer process used proprietary technology that they didn't want to show.

Sorry, I stopped FDM printing those, the finish is poor and they take way too long to print. I'm working on a new cast resin version now, but I don't expect it to be ready any time soon.

Glad it helped!

That was done with a ruling pen.

Honestly, I don't remember if I did that for this one. Sometimes it's necessary if the paint is peeling up.

@@RichardThompsonCA Thank you for the responses. Very helpful! When you have applied the clear acrylic varnish in the past, you did so with an air brush too?

@@tharrenpoplion6065 Spraying the work with mat varnish as an "isolation layer" is something I picked up from the youtube channel baumgartner restorations. It does seem to work to help with paint peel. I also add a Golden hard acrylic (GAC200) to the mat varnish to give it a harder film. If the acrylic is too "rubbery" the frisket sticks too well. You could probably do this with a paint brush but the brush stroke texture could cause problems. I didn't have this problem when I started airbrushing in the 90's but we seemed to have more options back then for airbrush surfaces and airbrush paints. It seems airbrushing has gone out of fashion. I used to work on a surface called Frisk CS-10 and it was amazing. Sadly that company went out of business years ago. Now I'm left with either poor quality options or prohibitively expensive options.

I have no idea. A lot of people do it and seem to get away with it but maybe they just haven't been caught yet. I think the more problematic part would be the logo's and trade marks of the company making them. I know I read that recently the current owner of the amc brand sued someone to keep the copyright even though nobody has made these cars in decades. I guess they still get a royalty on amc toy cars and wanted to protect that. I don't do any POD and don't sell many shirts so I don't worry about it. I know most popular defunct trademarked names have been scooped up by hedge funds and such hoping to cash in on infringements. You might check with a lawyer.

@@RichardThompsonCA sure thing,... but,.... what if you draw a vehicle with no logo, no model, nothing. The only recognizable thing about it would be essentially the lines and overall design. In this case we good, right?

@@danilfilimonov4579 I can't offer any legal advice on this, I just don't know. But with over 50 million channels on YT, there must be a copyright lawyer on here.

@@RichardThompsonCA 👍, sorry, thanks, take care

@@danilfilimonov4579 No problem, if you do find an answer post it here. I'm genuinely curious, I'm sure others are too.

Great tip!

The vent hole is actually next to the injection port. I figured if I made the hole on the other side the silicone wouldn't go all the way around to fill the mold.

It's cyanoacrylate glue (crazy glue, super glue, etc.) whatevers cheapest, available at the hardware store.

@@RichardThompsonCA thanks