I just started on my 3d resin printing journey and your vids have been a major source of hope and inspiration. I also appreciate how you showed your failed prints and how you have overcome each problem, this by itself is really inspiring especially as we live in a world where all to often we only see the sexy end product but not the hours of trial and error and learning that happens behind the scenes! So thank you for showing me that even experts occasionally have failed prints, its really helpful and encouraging.
Do you know how much better I feel for not tightening the screws a few times 🤣 it gives me more confidence to see when the pros have fails also! I would have given up if everyone showed perfect prints all the time!
Excellent. This is what I was looking for. When I was a boy in Australia in the 80s, we had Masters of the Universe flat square chocolate pieces designed to look like each individual character. The paper wrapping came in specific colours and with a cool drawing of the character on the outside (reflective of how it looked as chocolate on the inside and also a stick on tattoo. The wrapping still exists and can be bought from ebay from time to time (or actually printed if you wanted to) but the chocolate no longer is around. Since I am a 3D artist by trade, I wanna go out and get a 3D printer soon to make things like motorbike parts and now, molds like this. Don't know why, but the nostalgia in me wants to follow this up and share it with others. Thanks for the boost of confidence in showing it can be done.
Oh my gosh that build plate is huge! I'm jealous! I really like your videos! Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to share all of your awesome knowledge!
I've been figuring this out for our family chocolate business (The Secret Chocolatier) for the past year. We tried CNC--not enough resolution and at the resolutions scale hard not to melt HDPE. We tried FDM but FDM layer lines are a PITA to remove even with acetone. Now we're on SLA and SLA is where it's at. Make a buck with resin, food grade silicon for the molds and tada.. Good stuff. Will really help for short run customizations and if we like something a lot get it injection molded in polycarbonate for a long term use.
Awesome. On this one I was going for the 3d printed look, so I wanted the lines. But yeah not sure how you would remove them completely. Probably lower the layer height and use a high res printer.
@@Nerdtronic Yep, using a sonic mini 4k and at .02 the layer lines are incredibly hard to pick up on. As it is a resin we could also buff it even further but I think that's overkill. I just want a way to have more customization for customers, allow for us to have easier access to our own personalized series & for smaller sculpting projects (as larger ones do fine with modeling chocolates/FDM printing.) I don't know if there will ever be a tempered chocolate printer due to the complexities of holding real chocolate in a crystal lattice but this offers a nice ability to still use qualitatively great product with your own flare. Again fun video and so glad to see the idea populating in the wild. Does my heart good to know I've not been chasing some engineer-chocolatier-dream :D
Videos like this are what make you such a valuable resource. You're teaching how to use a 3d printer to leverage your design skills. Not just trying to sell me products with poor quality assurance issued like some unnamed channels. If you had Payreon, I would support you. Are you thinking if doing that?
Hi! I actually make videos here on youtube about molding chocolates! I'm glad I found your video because I was searching for how to create my own silicone molds...and now I'm getting a fun idea for some custom chocolates. My brother has a 3D printer 🤩 This is really cool, thanks for the video!
My first thought was compatibility with a platinum cure silicone and SLA resin. I'm glad it worked out for you! I've been using Siraya Fast. Now I want to try Blue. The Fast resin seems to only react sometimes, even though I spray it with a clear sealant. For example, I just make a pendant mold that holds 27 pendants. 2 of them inhibited curing. Then again, I might have forgotten to coat those two. Glad your project came out so great!
Just started 3d resin printing, and I'm really loving your super practical, pragmatic, and helpful videos! It's incredibly helpful to see the failures and things you learned. My box of failed prints is growing slowly but surely, and each represents something new to do better. Thank you for sharing your work on YT! Inspired by your video, I'm going to attempt to do something like this, though I would like to make molds that aren't fully filled in the box. To save mold material, I want it to be an external offset on the molded pieces. Finally, how has no one mentioned your hat in the comments, which is from Battlestar Galactica? Nice!
Now that was a interesting video.... i might be Channel VR on youtube but i'm also a Willy Wonka....me and my wife own a chocolate factory.... therefore i started making my own molds with vacuum forming... then i got my Anycubic filement printer for my simracing & RC hobby . Then i started to 3D print molds for making chocolate . When you spray them with food safe acrylic paint you can use them for food. The only problem was that you always see the lines of the print...and this in a professional environment cannot be allowed. Then i started to use putty spray paint to fill the lines and that worked perfect. Now just a few weeks ago i bought the Anycubic Photon X to start making better molds... Your video was very inspiring . Now i would like to make a Grogu mold in metal so i can put that in my marzipan pressure machiene....
Great video man, LIterally had me laughing at the failed attempts. Love the humor in it. Stick a sticky note on your printer saying "tighten screws" lol
I'm going to glue the failed piece to the top of the printer. The reason I forgot was because I didn't remove and clean off the build plate. I just put it back up there. So when I started the next print (and the later one) I just assumed it was all set. DUH!
@@Nerdtronic haha we have all been there. I once had a failed print, after cleaning it all up and put the plate back on, I forgot to tighten the screws. After stopping the failure and cleaning it all up I did it again, twice in a row haha
When I made custom chocolate I FDM 3d Printed a buck and then vacuum formed a piece of plastic plate around the 3D printed buck and then poured the chocolate into the plastic plate. I was making thinner "Ghiradelli" shape/style chocolates.
@@Nerdtronic no one.... except you! I think it's a valid process, would especially be valid if your design had undercuts you couldn't mold with a hard mold. I suspect "production" chocolates are made with aluminum molds because they could chill them and cycle faster (and they don't have to worry about silicone bits breaking off in the product)
You can always lower the detail control of an object soo fusión can run a little faster, it’s located on the browser, you have to right click over it and go down to display level control, and change it to fixed , and set the display level to low,
I know you have limited space on your build plate. On my CR6 Max I print my mold positives using PLA. But, because I have the space, I design the positives with a narrow wall around the collection of pieces. I leave a corner of the wall cut off but also print a 90 degree piece to be taped in the corner during the curing process to hold the liquid silicone in on that corner. Once the mold is cured I remove that piece and that gives me a space where I can get under the mold to start lifting it out. The one problem I have in the process is that I buy gallon sized buckets of the silicone and it’s a mess getting the thick stuff from there to the mixing cup.
My favorite part about the food network show Good Eats was that the host would often show the results of mistakes he made while cooking in order to help you better avoid them yourself. I think its great that the failed print attempts are shown so that people know what pitfalls to look out for in their attempts. Great video.
Oh Boy!! watching all those fails and forgotten thumb-screws really helped me feel better about my own "boo boo's".. Thanks for that My Friend! :) LOL. Great video Bro'
Yeah I couldn't believe the 2nd time I did the thumbscrews. I wish I had recorded my reaction to each of those. Although I don't put that kind of bad language in my videos 🤣
Hi micheal Very informative video! i'm trying the same idea. havend got any luck with anycubic resin. even with varnisch. still silicone contamination. i have orderd the siraya tech bleu resin and hope this will work :D thank you for this great vid
Hi, I'm just getting into 3d printing and your video is almost exactly what I'm trying to do! Just wondering if you had any info on if/how the sealer (Rust-oleum etc) protects from toxic stuff from the model leeching into the silicone? Any and all help from anyone on this specific point would be HUGEly appreciated :)
Liked and subscribed! Can you explain what you did for the degassing process and any suggestions on how to get a smooth surface on the printed plastic? Thank you
Thanks for the sub! Yeah I used a vacuum chamber and then I also tried to do a high pour to get that ribboning, and also let the rubber rise up around the parts. Check out Robert Tolone's channel. He's the expert on all things casing.
Damn. I'm so jealous lol. I tried making a cookie cutter with elgoo washable red resin and smooth sil 940 and nothing I coated it with would allow the silicon to cure properly. Tried a lacer, rust-o-luim primer and kylon sealer, nothing worked. The Silicon was always just a goopy mess where ever it touched the print. Going to grab a bottle of the resin you used Thanks!
I was very very surprised that it cured ok. I guess that's why Robert says to test. But you can see during the call that I was shocked. I expected that would be the hard part of it. In our call we discussed how you'd deal with that if it didn't cure ok. But I cut that out for time. But Robert said to cast in a tin rubber, then make a resin cast of that, and then recast in the food safe. Seems like a lot of work. So I'm glad I didn't have to go through all of that.
Oh also.. so in the end I was using the phrozen tr 250lv with a tiny bit of siyara blu mixed in. But I used all that I had. I just got some really inexpensive resin in so we'll see how that works next. Also I'll be printing something that Robert is going to cast on one of his videos. That'll be coming up in a month or so.
It is perfect! Thinking of reducing the manufacturing cost, after resin printing, maybe it is more practicable to use acetate in a vacuum form to make the forms?
For design, blender has a way to simplify the preview so it loads quicker. You can make it complex, then simplify the preview, and copy paste design to get the full tray master.
Hi! Quick question. New subscriber right here. I’m really interested in learning more about 3D resin printing particularly focused on printing food safe molds as I would like to apply it in baking. I’m completely new to this topic, I still need to research more on what supplies and printer would suit my project the most. But is the resin print you used for casting the silicone mold food safe? Or does it not matter, and it’s safe if you just wash it thoroughly? I’m excited to check more of your videos to learn more on the process.
What is the resolution of your printer? I noticed the tree rings on your print - something I'm trying to get away from without doing the math for perfect print angle. I'm currently using an Anycubic Photon 2k and it does fine for prototyping, but we're going to invest in a Saturn 2 8k ASAP. I just couldn't tell what make and model you are using...
"and its a load off cause its one less thing to worry about" (the resign and cure inhibition) Ive literally been trying to fix this for month until, I just bought EXACTLY what you use so I can see for myself. Did you use a curing machine? if so how long? air dry? oven?
Inventor or Solidworks show there mussel in designs like that. Just need the computer power to back it up. The problem you experienced is why cloud biased CAD solutions are simply not ready for prime time in complicated over 10 part assemblies.
Just Curious, what Micron does your Printer print? That Looks Very Ridgy for a Resin Printer? My Photon Mono would never have the Leigh lines as present as those! Also I'm soo Sad, Your Cool program doesn't work with Photon Mono as the Slicer outputs .PWMO files :-( Not .Proton Files :-( This is such a Great Idea! Defiantly will be doing this!
I know I know. It killed me that I kept saying it the wrong way but I didn't want to have to reshoot it. I tried to replace it everywhere I could. Next video I promise to say it right. 🤦🏼♂️
"if you know better design tool" ...blender. I tried using cad-like software for my 3d prints but eventually I always came back to blender. Blender is different type of 3d editor, it destructively modifies object and you can move every single vertex. There is little problem when you wanna make precise stuff but I do it all the time you just gotta get used to different type modeling. Also there is this another benefit that you can then color it and render a full hd video, also you can generate models from math nodes (geometry nodes) AND SO MUCH MORE i could talk for hours. Give it a try!
@@Nerdtronic Quoting from the smooth sil 940 product page: "Optional: Post curing the mold will aid in quickly attaining maximum physical and performance properties. After curing at room temperature, expose the rubber to 176°F/80°C for 2 hours and 212°F/100°C for one hour. Allow mold to cool to room temperature before using."
Just an idea: if you 3d printed a mold for it , you could have filled it with that silicone to make a squeegee just the right size for the bottoms of those chocolate molds.
Hey! I got the #1000th like! Can I be lazy and ask if you found a way to optimize fusion on detailed models?? I opted for a hardware solution; an expensive investment that yielded a better processing speed however, it was still frustratingly slow.. PS: Thanks for posting these videos - it's nice to compare techniques and hear about your experiences... preventing me from wasting many more hours on test prints!
0:00 - Intro. The plan. 1:30 - Main title 1:43 - First issue - Silicone might not cure against 3d resin 2:36 - Testing silicone cure Inhibition with different coatings 3:12 - Phone call with Robert Tolone 7:02 - Peeling the silicone off the test pieces 7:30 - Design montage 8:47 - Let's print it (fails) 10:20 - Assemble the mold and pour it 11:08 - Peel the mold (satisfying) 11:45 - Making chocolates
You can add this information in the description and UA-cam will break up your video into chapters in the progress bar: support.google.com/youtube/answer/9884579?hl=en
How much silicone did you end up using? If I calculated correctly, 1000ccm/1kg (cube of 10x10x10cm) of molding silicone costs roughly 30€ which sounds rather expensive. I'm currently looking into making chocolate molds using a 3d printer, the other option, using a vacuum forming sounds a lot easier and less expensive, but of course will not give such good details.
The silicone was a sponsored product so I didn’t pay for it. I can’t remember how much I used. It was a few years ago now. You might also look at vacuforming.
Well there are 2 issues that you can encounter. One would be that the silicone might bond with the part you're trying to cast. The second would be cure inhibition, which is something in the part that prevents the silicone from curing. And in that case the silicone would end up sticky or tacky. I expected this 2nd issue to happen. All the other videos I had seen on it indicated that I would get cure inhibition. But I did the test and the silicone cured fine. In the video you can see that I was actually very surprised. So it worked to cast directly off the 3d printed part. It might be because I'm in the desert. It's super dry here. Maybe that had something to do with it. Not sure.
@@Nerdtronic yeah I have made a ton of molds. I was super excited to get my resin printer and hadn't seen anything about the parts causing inhibition until I happened upon a video on youtube. I was slighrly bummed by thus but also knew that many ppl had been molding so I knew there would be a work around. I have a product from Smoothon called InhibitX that I have used in the past on things that cause inhibition so I'll try that when I mold. I have also heard if you wait like two weeks that all the degassing and oil leeching of the resin will have stopped and they might be ok to cast raw. I was also told if you soak them in a solution of caustic soda and water that it will extract everything and make them moldable. Thanks for the info in the video! Very helpful!
i hate myself for being that guy but you need to temper the chocolate before pouring it in to a mold your chocolate was way too warm / hot thats why it looks kinda flat and has no shine also its probably really soft and has no crunch when you bite into it
This is such a fun and wholesome channel 👍🏽
Wow thanks!
I just started on my 3d resin printing journey and your vids have been a major source of hope and inspiration. I also appreciate how you showed your failed prints and how you have overcome each problem, this by itself is really inspiring especially as we live in a world where all to often we only see the sexy end product but not the hours of trial and error and learning that happens behind the scenes! So thank you for showing me that even experts occasionally have failed prints, its really helpful and encouraging.
This looks like the perfect project for a candy shop to undertake. For that matter, I can see a caterer doing this for a wedding or any special event.
Amazing content quality in every aspect. Thank you for all the work process you're sharing with us!
My pleasure!
Do you know how much better I feel for not tightening the screws a few times 🤣 it gives me more confidence to see when the pros have fails also! I would have given up if everyone showed perfect prints all the time!
love rob, he's a great guy. quality video and killer result
Excellent. This is what I was looking for. When I was a boy in Australia in the 80s, we had Masters of the Universe flat square chocolate pieces designed to look like each individual character. The paper wrapping came in specific colours and with a cool drawing of the character on the outside (reflective of how it looked as chocolate on the inside and also a stick on tattoo. The wrapping still exists and can be bought from ebay from time to time (or actually printed if you wanted to) but the chocolate no longer is around. Since I am a 3D artist by trade, I wanna go out and get a 3D printer soon to make things like motorbike parts and now, molds like this. Don't know why, but the nostalgia in me wants to follow this up and share it with others. Thanks for the boost of confidence in showing it can be done.
Great!
Thank you for showing of all the failed prints! I'm glad to see I'm not the only one that struggled on things that shouldnt be a problem ;)
Oh my gosh that build plate is huge! I'm jealous!
I really like your videos! Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to share all of your awesome knowledge!
Thank you so much!
Amazing job! very informative video. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Subscribed! I enjoy your calm and detailed style. Hopefully there will be many more videos to come!
Welcome aboard! I hope so too.
I love it!!! Is an awesome project!!! Thank you blessings ❤
I'm glad I stumbled upon this video. Thanks for sharing your 3D wisdom :).
Okay I am glad I came back to watch this. The video is charming and I really liked the silicone casting section.
Thanks. 😀 The video really tanked. Haha. But I thought it was a fun project. Never know what people are going to like.
I've been figuring this out for our family chocolate business (The Secret Chocolatier) for the past year. We tried CNC--not enough resolution and at the resolutions scale hard not to melt HDPE. We tried FDM but FDM layer lines are a PITA to remove even with acetone. Now we're on SLA and SLA is where it's at. Make a buck with resin, food grade silicon for the molds and tada.. Good stuff. Will really help for short run customizations and if we like something a lot get it injection molded in polycarbonate for a long term use.
Awesome. On this one I was going for the 3d printed look, so I wanted the lines. But yeah not sure how you would remove them completely. Probably lower the layer height and use a high res printer.
@@Nerdtronic Yep, using a sonic mini 4k and at .02 the layer lines are incredibly hard to pick up on. As it is a resin we could also buff it even further but I think that's overkill. I just want a way to have more customization for customers, allow for us to have easier access to our own personalized series & for smaller sculpting projects (as larger ones do fine with modeling chocolates/FDM printing.) I don't know if there will ever be a tempered chocolate printer due to the complexities of holding real chocolate in a crystal lattice but this offers a nice ability to still use qualitatively great product with your own flare. Again fun video and so glad to see the idea populating in the wild. Does my heart good to know I've not been chasing some engineer-chocolatier-dream :D
Videos like this are what make you such a valuable resource. You're teaching how to use a 3d printer to leverage your design skills. Not just trying to sell me products with poor quality assurance issued like some unnamed channels. If you had Payreon, I would support you. Are you thinking if doing that?
This was an amazingnvid to watch and plan around with ty
Solid channel, man. honestly very happy to have found it!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks so much for the ideas. I love it!
Hi! I actually make videos here on youtube about molding chocolates! I'm glad I found your video because I was searching for how to create my own silicone molds...and now I'm getting a fun idea for some custom chocolates. My brother has a 3D printer 🤩 This is really cool, thanks for the video!
Great job! I came here from Robert's channel and I'll be following you as well.
Thank you for posting the fails, keeps me motivated knowing I’m not the only one!
My first thought was compatibility with a platinum cure silicone and SLA resin. I'm glad it worked out for you! I've been using Siraya Fast. Now I want to try Blue. The Fast resin seems to only react sometimes, even though I spray it with a clear sealant. For example, I just make a pendant mold that holds 27 pendants. 2 of them inhibited curing. Then again, I might have forgotten to coat those two. Glad your project came out so great!
Thanks!
such a great progress tomake them! they turned out amazing!
Thanks so much! 😊
Just started 3d resin printing, and I'm really loving your super practical, pragmatic, and helpful videos! It's incredibly helpful to see the failures and things you learned. My box of failed prints is growing slowly but surely, and each represents something new to do better. Thank you for sharing your work on YT!
Inspired by your video, I'm going to attempt to do something like this, though I would like to make molds that aren't fully filled in the box. To save mold material, I want it to be an external offset on the molded pieces.
Finally, how has no one mentioned your hat in the comments, which is from Battlestar Galactica? Nice!
This is awesome!
very informative. thank you
appriciated , brilliant work
Thanks!
D & D famous!
Yeah that was fun
Perhaps a pre-print checklist is in order... :) great channel
Thank you for the fails montage. It feels nice seeing I'm not the only one that screws things up all the time 😅
You could 3D print the shape of chocolate and then vacuum mould it
Yeah, I think that is a pretty good idea. I have considered this since making this video.
creator team-ups are always a blast.
So glad I found your channel!
Welcome!!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 that was an amazing video. Now I want my own custom chocolate!
Thanks for watching it live with us. I didn't realize that all the live comments would get deleted. Otherwise I would have screen grabbed it.
@@Nerdtronic the great youtuber ever...hats off ❤️
@@SeniorAdvocate3746 I try to always wear my hat :) Thanks!
@@Nerdtronic dear sir can I get your phone number please... I need your help and I'm just like your doughter please??
Being able to design something that incredible and forgetting to tighten screws is frustrating 😂😂 I get that feeling
Dude i love your channel! Greetings from Austria 😁✌
Greetings from America 🇺🇸
Awesome video. I really appreciate that you show your failures 💜💜
Fantastic idea!
Thank you! 😊
Now that was a interesting video.... i might be Channel VR on youtube but i'm also a Willy Wonka....me and my wife own a chocolate factory.... therefore i started making my own molds with vacuum forming... then i got my Anycubic filement printer for my simracing & RC hobby .
Then i started to 3D print molds for making chocolate . When you spray them with food safe acrylic paint you can use them for food.
The only problem was that you always see the lines of the print...and this in a professional environment cannot be allowed. Then i started to use putty spray paint to fill the lines and that worked perfect. Now just a few weeks ago i bought the Anycubic Photon X to start making better molds... Your video was very inspiring . Now i would like to make a Grogu mold in metal so i can put that in my marzipan pressure machiene....
Great video man, LIterally had me laughing at the failed attempts. Love the humor in it. Stick a sticky note on your printer saying "tighten screws" lol
I'm going to glue the failed piece to the top of the printer. The reason I forgot was because I didn't remove and clean off the build plate. I just put it back up there. So when I started the next print (and the later one) I just assumed it was all set. DUH!
@@Nerdtronic haha we have all been there. I once had a failed print, after cleaning it all up and put the plate back on, I forgot to tighten the screws. After stopping the failure and cleaning it all up I did it again, twice in a row haha
@@Nerdtronic sir could you design for me?
When I made custom chocolate I FDM 3d Printed a buck and then vacuum formed a piece of plastic plate around the 3D printed buck and then poured the chocolate into the plastic plate. I was making thinner "Ghiradelli" shape/style chocolates.
I've been told that no one makes chocolate molds this way, so you're prob right.
@@Nerdtronic no one.... except you! I think it's a valid process, would especially be valid if your design had undercuts you couldn't mold with a hard mold. I suspect "production" chocolates are made with aluminum molds because they could chill them and cycle faster (and they don't have to worry about silicone bits breaking off in the product)
You can always lower the detail control of an object soo fusión can run a little faster, it’s located on the browser, you have to right click over it and go down to display level control, and change it to fixed , and set the display level to low,
Nailed it 😆
I know you have limited space on your build plate. On my CR6 Max I print my mold positives using PLA. But, because I have the space, I design the positives with a narrow wall around the collection of pieces. I leave a corner of the wall cut off but also print a 90 degree piece to be taped in the corner during the curing process to hold the liquid silicone in on that corner. Once the mold is cured I remove that piece and that gives me a space where I can get under the mold to start lifting it out.
The one problem I have in the process is that I buy gallon sized buckets of the silicone and it’s a mess getting the thick stuff from there to the mixing cup.
I don't work with silicone much. But yeah it can be a mess. Resin 3d printing can be also.
Nice collaboration with Robert! Hat design looks like it's a flight jacket patch from Battlestar Galactica.
Ding ding ding - You go it! I ordered the patch on ebay and we put it on a hat.
@@Nerdtronic Elderly-nerd alert!! LOL :) JK guys, as much as i disliked the show (i was a kid i should have loved it) i remember it very well.. ;)
You assume it's from the original BSG in the 80's? 😂 The patch is from the newer BSG from 2004.
Great video!
Thanks! Glad someone likes it 😀
Idk why, but the repeated mistakes are so relatable. I feel like this would happen to me too 😆
Awesome
Thanks. I plan to do more casting in future videos.
My favorite part about the food network show Good Eats was that the host would often show the results of mistakes he made while cooking in order to help you better avoid them yourself. I think its great that the failed print attempts are shown so that people know what pitfalls to look out for in their attempts. Great video.
Great Vid Michael!!! Lets make some chocolate game miniatures. You can eat them when they die.
Oh like a chess set but instead of taking the pieces you get to eat them!
Just got my first 3d resin printer and I must say - all those print fails made me nervous as hell. Glad to see it was a human error behind it :D
I can tell you I wasn't very happy when I made those mistakes. Haha
It's awesome to see how the custom designed chocolates are made by using a resin printer.
Oh Boy!! watching all those fails and forgotten thumb-screws really helped me feel better about my own "boo boo's".. Thanks for that My Friend! :) LOL. Great video Bro'
Yeah I couldn't believe the 2nd time I did the thumbscrews. I wish I had recorded my reaction to each of those. Although I don't put that kind of bad language in my videos 🤣
@@Nerdtronic I am fluent in the fine language of profanity... It is an revered art form indeed! :) LOL
pretty rad
Thanks!
Hi micheal Very informative video! i'm trying the same idea. havend got any luck with anycubic resin. even with varnisch. still silicone contamination. i have orderd the siraya tech bleu resin and hope this will work :D thank you for this great vid
Thanks. I totally expected cure inhibition and was surprised when it just worked.
"I forgot to tighten the thumb screws AGAIN" You should print yourself a Darwin award for this ;)
Ha yeah. I think Darwin awards are for people who "expire" from their mistakes though.
Aye I had that exact same one at the beginning of the vid😊
I’ve done molding and casting on one of my statues, it’s a messy and time consuming process, decided to just print if I need copies.
I expected it to be, but it wasn’t too bad. Also I wanted to learn how to do it. Thanks for watching.
Hi, I'm just getting into 3d printing and your video is almost exactly what I'm trying to do! Just wondering if you had any info on if/how the sealer (Rust-oleum etc) protects from toxic stuff from the model leeching into the silicone? Any and all help from anyone on this specific point would be HUGEly appreciated :)
I was hoping the "Test, Test, Test" referred the chocolate. I'll have to try this sometime using my logo to make chocolate coins.
Liked and subscribed! Can you explain what you did for the degassing process and any suggestions on how to get a smooth surface on the printed plastic? Thank you
Thanks for the sub! Yeah I used a vacuum chamber and then I also tried to do a high pour to get that ribboning, and also let the rubber rise up around the parts. Check out Robert Tolone's channel. He's the expert on all things casing.
HAHAHAHA
i say my self whey you showed all the fails that happend to you : D
and even the Thumb Screw twice :D
thats 100% me
Thans Merlin. I was not laughing that second time I forgot the thumb screw. 🤣
Damn. I'm so jealous lol. I tried making a cookie cutter with elgoo washable red resin and smooth sil 940 and nothing I coated it with would allow the silicon to cure properly. Tried a lacer, rust-o-luim primer and kylon sealer, nothing worked. The Silicon was always just a goopy mess where ever it touched the print. Going to grab a bottle of the resin you used Thanks!
I was very very surprised that it cured ok. I guess that's why Robert says to test. But you can see during the call that I was shocked. I expected that would be the hard part of it. In our call we discussed how you'd deal with that if it didn't cure ok. But I cut that out for time. But Robert said to cast in a tin rubber, then make a resin cast of that, and then recast in the food safe. Seems like a lot of work. So I'm glad I didn't have to go through all of that.
Oh also.. so in the end I was using the phrozen tr 250lv with a tiny bit of siyara blu mixed in. But I used all that I had. I just got some really inexpensive resin in so we'll see how that works next. Also I'll be printing something that Robert is going to cast on one of his videos. That'll be coming up in a month or so.
It is perfect! Thinking of reducing the manufacturing cost, after resin printing, maybe it is more practicable to use acetate in a vacuum form to make the forms?
Some would say that is the only right way to do it. (Vacuum form)
For design, blender has a way to simplify the preview so it loads quicker. You can make it complex, then simplify the preview, and copy paste design to get the full tray master.
I would use the Array modifier to create duplicates.
Hi! Quick question. New subscriber right here. I’m really interested in learning more about 3D resin printing particularly focused on printing food safe molds as I would like to apply it in baking. I’m completely new to this topic, I still need to research more on what supplies and printer would suit my project the most. But is the resin print you used for casting the silicone mold food safe? Or does it not matter, and it’s safe if you just wash it thoroughly? I’m excited to check more of your videos to learn more on the process.
Nice job....eventually!!!!
Well done I love this project.
link for the vacuum preasure thing? would like to make my own molds!
Thank you so much. New to Fusion 360. May I ask advice on how to make the surfaces convex.
Check out Desktop Mates. He has a lot of Fusion tutorial videos. ua-cam.com/users/DesktopMakes
Try Blender or ZBrush for that kind of design, will probably work much better.
Thanks. I do need to learn blender eventually.
What is the resolution of your printer? I noticed the tree rings on your print - something I'm trying to get away from without doing the math for perfect print angle. I'm currently using an Anycubic Photon 2k and it does fine for prototyping, but we're going to invest in a Saturn 2 8k ASAP. I just couldn't tell what make and model you are using...
@Nerdtronic what size vacuum pot did you use? Do you know the brand/name? How long did you keep the silicone in the pot.
Hey, do u have an idea how to cast this but with way less silicone? Like the ones you see in the market. The ones you can roll
Looks good made me want to eat my phone
Haha thanks!
"and its a load off cause its one less thing to worry about" (the resign and cure inhibition)
Ive literally been trying to fix this for month until, I just bought EXACTLY what you use so I can see for myself.
Did you use a curing machine? if so how long? air dry? oven?
The thumbscrews thing is the bane of my existence. It's the worst when you don't realize until you're hours into a print, especially for minis
Inventor or Solidworks show there mussel in designs like that. Just need the computer power to back it up. The problem you experienced is why cloud biased CAD solutions are simply not ready for prime time in complicated over 10 part assemblies.
Yeah it really got slow on that one. Fusion doesn’t do good with complex meshes.
Just Curious, what Micron does your Printer print? That Looks Very Ridgy for a Resin Printer? My Photon Mono would never have the Leigh lines as present as those! Also I'm soo Sad, Your Cool program doesn't work with Photon Mono as the Slicer outputs .PWMO files :-( Not .Proton Files :-(
This is such a Great Idea! Defiantly will be doing this!
silicone is for molds, silicon is for circuits.
I know I know. It killed me that I kept saying it the wrong way but I didn't want to have to reshoot it. I tried to replace it everywhere I could. Next video I promise to say it right. 🤦🏼♂️
I am actually doing that you got the same idea as mine.
Did you purposely leave the line marks to make it known that it was 3d printed? I'm trying to do something similar but a very clean look
"if you know better design tool" ...blender. I tried using cad-like software for my 3d prints but eventually I always came back to blender. Blender is different type of 3d editor, it destructively modifies object and you can move every single vertex. There is little problem when you wanna make precise stuff but I do it all the time you just gotta get used to different type modeling.
Also there is this another benefit that you can then color it and render a full hd video, also you can generate models from math nodes (geometry nodes) AND SO MUCH MORE i could talk for hours. Give it a try!
You're right. I need to learn blender.
Dude i’m just like this 😂🤣😂😂
I really love the idea but I would be worried there would be resin in the silicon! Even though I know they don't stick to each other lol
It should be ok. Manufacturer says it is. You do wash it first.
Did you ever do the optional post curing of the mold? Just curious as to know if it affects the flexibility in any way.
I didn’t. How do you do it?
@@Nerdtronic Quoting from the smooth sil 940 product page:
"Optional: Post curing the mold will aid in quickly attaining maximum physical and performance properties. After curing at room temperature, expose the rubber to 176°F/80°C for 2 hours and 212°F/100°C for one hour. Allow mold to cool to room temperature before using."
Just an idea: if you 3d printed a mold for it , you could have filled it with that silicone to make a squeegee just the right size for the bottoms of those chocolate molds.
Damn they sent you like almost $400 worth of silicone for something that only required a couple ounces
Will this process work for ice cube molds as well?
yes it will. Once you make the rubber mold you could use it for ice or chocolate.
Zbrush can easy eat millions of poligons
Hey! I got the #1000th like! Can I be lazy and ask if you found a way to optimize fusion on detailed models?? I opted for a hardware solution; an expensive investment that yielded a better processing speed however, it was still frustratingly slow..
PS: Thanks for posting these videos - it's nice to compare techniques and hear about your experiences... preventing me from wasting many more hours on test prints!
Can I hire you for a custom job
0:00 - Intro. The plan.
1:30 - Main title
1:43 - First issue - Silicone might not cure against 3d resin
2:36 - Testing silicone cure Inhibition with different coatings
3:12 - Phone call with Robert Tolone
7:02 - Peeling the silicone off the test pieces
7:30 - Design montage
8:47 - Let's print it (fails)
10:20 - Assemble the mold and pour it
11:08 - Peel the mold (satisfying)
11:45 - Making chocolates
You can add this information in the description and UA-cam will break up your video into chapters in the progress bar: support.google.com/youtube/answer/9884579?hl=en
Thanks
I wonder if you could pin this so it’s at the top.. I’m seeing this one at ending of all the comments lol
What vacuum chamber did you use?
How much silicone did you end up using? If I calculated correctly, 1000ccm/1kg (cube of 10x10x10cm) of molding silicone costs roughly 30€ which sounds rather expensive. I'm currently looking into making chocolate molds using a 3d printer, the other option, using a vacuum forming sounds a lot easier and less expensive, but of course will not give such good details.
The silicone was a sponsored product so I didn’t pay for it. I can’t remember how much I used. It was a few years ago now. You might also look at vacuforming.
Do you sell the food-grade chocolate molds!?!!
So did you end up sealing the prints or molding without sealing them?
Well there are 2 issues that you can encounter. One would be that the silicone might bond with the part you're trying to cast. The second would be cure inhibition, which is something in the part that prevents the silicone from curing. And in that case the silicone would end up sticky or tacky. I expected this 2nd issue to happen. All the other videos I had seen on it indicated that I would get cure inhibition. But I did the test and the silicone cured fine. In the video you can see that I was actually very surprised. So it worked to cast directly off the 3d printed part. It might be because I'm in the desert. It's super dry here. Maybe that had something to do with it. Not sure.
@@Nerdtronic yeah I have made a ton of molds. I was super excited to get my resin printer and hadn't seen anything about the parts causing inhibition until I happened upon a video on youtube. I was slighrly bummed by thus but also knew that many ppl had been molding so I knew there would be a work around. I have a product from Smoothon called InhibitX that I have used in the past on things that cause inhibition so I'll try that when I mold. I have also heard if you wait like two weeks that all the degassing and oil leeching of the resin will have stopped and they might be ok to cast raw. I was also told if you soak them in a solution of caustic soda and water that it will extract everything and make them moldable. Thanks for the info in the video! Very helpful!
Hey what vacuum chamber did you get?
I got this one: amzn.to/3j7ayvx It's not bad but it only gets to about -25
@@Nerdtronic Thanks!
i hate myself for being that guy but you need to temper the chocolate before pouring it in to a mold
your chocolate was way too warm / hot thats why it looks kinda flat and has no shine
also its probably really soft and has no crunch when you bite into it
I thought I did? They actually did have good crunch. Maybe it didn't come out as good on video. But thanls for watching!
Do you sell custom molds?