You put an amazing amount of time, effort and expense into all of your videos. I'm buying Amazon products in the future using your affiliate link and sharing your videos with everyone to help support your channel! Thanks again!
Good test! I bought nearly the same unit but in Australia we have 240V. Just like on your test it came just under half the rated output. So I kept it at 1695 Watts to see how long it lasted. After 7 minutes smoke came out but it was able to restart and work up to 300 W. Upon inspection the main reservoir capacitor had popped. I asked the supplier for a replacement cap. They staunchly refused and after asking too many questions they insisted on return and I got my money back. I should have filmed the smoke. In the overall there is not enough build quality. Should be sold as 1500W inverter!
I would've sold it as a sine wave inverter with 1000W max continuous, 1500W up to 5 minutes, with high surge capability. Hope you were able to swap out the cap. Thanks for watching!
Your $140 inverter is now (3 years later) $190 which translates into $265 Canadian. You have made me feel so much better about my $250 Canadian purchase of CNSwiPower 2kw/4kw peak workhorse beast I made last month and that I did not leave money on the table.
Hello Doug, A thorough and informative review. Thank you for keeping your subs and viewers safe in the market place. Always great videos, now go help Rose. All the best from Oregon, C.
Great to hear Mark! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Glad you liked the video Drew! Be sure to look over my "Solar Energy" video playlist below. I have other testing videos. Sharing links to my videos with others would be appreciated. Thank you ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html
Please address the connection of supercapasitors to enhance surge capacity of solar array loads . I enjoy your careful and deliberate method. Excellent.
2 questions... still so much I need to learn. 1> If I wanted to run a continuous 1500 to 4000 watts with occasional surge starting power, is it better to have 4x1000 watts rated inverters instead of 1x4000? I realize that will create more logs with internal circuits and other areas. 2> if trying to save cost, can you use mod sine in a home with a UPS backup power connected to things that require pure sine such as desktop computers?
Hi there. You need one "GOOD" inverter, and I would suggest a sine wave inverter. I can suggest a few if you'd like. 20 years ago I was using modified sine wave units. That said, there are many things that you could power using a modified sine wave inverter. As long as the UPS can tolerate a modified sine input(which it should), then you can do as you stated. Thanks for watching!
At 11:00 you pinpoint an inductor. That inductor along with the blue capacitor next to it makes a low-pass filter that filters the high frequency PWM letting only the 50 or 60Hz sine-wave get through. These inverters are essentially Class D audio amplifiers that amplify a single 50 or 60Hz tone.
Excellent review and through! Same factory probably builds car audio amplifiers too! They (Chinese) have a problem with zeros! Like 4000 watts is really 400 watts (ie: car amp). Note that a couple of the yellow transformers in that inverter said 1.5Kw. I think that says it all.
11:00 It's an LC filter that turns high frequency PWM output into a sinewave. Most 2 stage inverters are built in such a way that the first voltage from the battery is boosted up (on that side with lots of smaller MOSFETS) and then high frequency chopped into PWM (on the side with 2 large MOSFETS). Finally the output is filtered out and turned into sinewave using LC filter. Thanks for in depth review. You've saved some people their hard earned cash.
I like the idea of using multiple wires on the out put and input connector. I believe three 8 AWG wires would stay cooler then say a single 6 or 4 AWG wire. I'm quite happy with the reliable inverter, I went with 24v and purchased a 12v for the mother in law..
Nice to hear Mike! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
@@electronicsNmore Nah, just having the brand name should be enough to search the o'scope. I just wanted something to look at the output wave form of my house generator that DID NOT plug into the wall. No need to blow up an o'scope just to satisfy my curiosity.
For the sake of the ear drums of people watching this video using earphones, perhaps you could limit the sound level when you start the power saw, other than that, thanks for taking the time to produce these videos, they are a great source of information. Do you think you would have bought this inverter if it was advertised as a 1500 Watt inverter?
Sorry Alan. I did lower the audio way down in the video. You can hear where the audio drops down. When I edit I use headphones, it sounded fine to me. For $142 shipped for a 1000W max continuous sine wave unit with high surge capability, not a bad price. The need to be honest with their ratings. Thank for watching!
I know it's a 2000w inverter, but isn't it possible given the fact there's only one outlet, that it's limited to 15 amps/ 1875 watts (or +/-1800w)? So maybe two appliances is over that limit? I wonder if there were two outlets if it would be able to handle it?
Engineer: It's 1500 watts peak sir Boss: Okay so 4000 watts End user: Here we go again In all fairness you need a watt meter with a higher sample rate. Reading watts on that cheese LCD display that likely does a lot of averaging to keep it stable and easy to read isn't the best test.
@@electronicsNmore My point was it didn't jump around enough. If the sample rate was high enough to see the peak wattage the display would jump around so much you wouldn't be able to read it. If you wanted to know the real peak wattage and continuous average you'd need a sample rate in the millisecond range and a data logger to record the data. You could then export the data and look at it in a graph form and see what is really going on. I'd guess the inverter has a half second sample rate and averages at least two readings to keep the same number on the display long enough for the human eye/brain to read it.
Maybe I missed something, but did you test the sine wave form under load? Without load, the wave can be different. Pure sine should be pure under load, where it's most important to have clean power. Excellent video, BTW.
At 5:00 I had that unit on the left, (GoPart). I accidentally connected it to a higher wattage device, and it *destroyed* the H.V. Transformer indside the GoPart *IMMEDIATELY!* The current limit *DID-NOT* work!!
Thanks for the vid 👍 you need to put the tools under some strain, a cordless tool with a low battery will spin the motor but won't do it's job properly, the same will be for this test,
The chop saw under load(cutting wood) will use around the same power or less as a microwave oven at full power. The inverters don't have problems under load if at or below the continuous power rating, usually the problem happens at start-up. Thanks for watching!
Ive had the giandel 4000/8000 24v for 2 years and it is good for the money but it can't start up my 2200w mitre saw, the company said that is because its start up is over 8000w which I find very difficult to believe, they then said it was my batteries not being enough, I have 16x 180ah LifePo CALB batteries at 24v. Are they right or is this BS?
Another great video! I'm sorta new to using solar and hoping for some advice. Is there a tested inverter out there that is reasonably priced that you would recommend? Thanks!
Watch my other video on the Reliable brand inverter. It performed fairly well until I did the AC short circuit test. If you don't short it, not a bad deal. You can buy a smaller 1500/3000 unit for around $189, and it's sine wave output.
@@electronicsNmore thanks! I did watch that video and I was impressed until the end lol I just keep hearing horror stories about how unreliable theses things are. I’m currently using a 3500 watt edecoa but I fear it won’t last.
well i have this camper on a lot a long ways from anything. ya, off grid. I have been using a giandel 1200W inverter for almost three years. Works great, fan comes on when it should, runs the vacuum, and every single morning one or two batches through a 5-cup coffeemaker. it will trip out if i run the vac the same time as I am making coffee but if I am not dumb I do not need a 4000W inverter LOL Other people have had good luck with giandel, and I have seen online where people needed warranty support- and it was there. I also have a 300W pure sine from giandel in the jeep to run my cordless tools chargers so in spite of whatever happened here I can recommend the giandel product as dependable and reliable...
I am trying to get a pure sine wave power inverter to run 2 industrial sewing machines 400watts each one at home. Which one in your opinion should I buy? What type of battery do I need? What kind? Help please. Thank you in advance.
I have that Changi 4000Q inverter. I didn't expect more than 2000 watts (regardless of the label - the Chinese have an interesting way of computing "peak" power, as a 350 watt inverter can have a 3000 watt peak rating). I found that the Changi shuts down in less than a minute at about 1600 watts (testing at 61F/16C). It also runs the fan continuously at lower power levels. My 2000 watt continuous Reliable inverter can run a 400 watt halogen worklight continuously with the fan running occasionally. The Changi starts the fans in a minute or less with the same load and they run continuously until the load is removed. I think it needs bigger heat sinks and better air flow. My 12 volt source is a 420AH AGM battery bank so the voltage is relatively stiff. There is an online reference about sealed lead-acid batteries lasting longer with an occasional 10% discharge than when held at float voltage in standby service. I have a long term project of testing that premise on the AGM batteries I installed last year (replacing a set that was almost 9 years old). The 420AH bank gets a 42AH discharge once or twice a month, followed by a full charge. Will it make a difference? Ask me in 9 years ;-) To start the chopsaw (and similar tools) on an inverter or a generator that doesn't quite have the surge capacity needed, go to raymondinnovations.com and check out their GS10 (15 amps) or GS11 (20 amps) soft start devices. They use an NTC resistor that heats up very fast to limit inrush current. Some chop saws have a startup current of almost 40 amps, so you know that most inverters don't have the fraction of a second of higher output that's needed to get the motor turning.
The Changi is a poorly designed unit, and it does heat up due to inadequate heat sinks. Refer to my other video below. Thanks ua-cam.com/video/1MPW1dqulWw/v-deo.html
The question is what stops the inverter from working at higher wattage load? Obviously, it is not because of voltage drop of the battery. Could it be the high temperature? Does it mean that if the unit got better heat dissipating ability, it would allow higher wattage load?
Excessive heat. Maybe adding a high CFM fan would allow higher current loads longer. Thanks for watching Joe!
3 роки тому+1
That inductor, along the ~3μF cap next to it form the spwm filter. Nothing to do with inrush currents. And the control board might be eg8010 based with a pair of counterfreight ir2110 or ir2113. Might worth a check. The chip usually doesn't die but the gate drivers do. And replacing the brass piece of... wire used as a current sensing resistor with a calibrated, low tolerance shunt resistor, might save you even in dead short circuits. Those gate drivers pop like corn on fire if fake. The original International Rectifier ones survive even blown high-side fets.
I bought the 24v version of this exact unit and have come to the same conclusions. This is a 1000w continuous inverter. 1200w for 15 mins (good enough for a toaster) but don't expect anything more than that. The way the mosfets are mounted, makes additional cooling options impossible. I bought mine for 150 Canadian bucks from aliexpress. Yes there are better but I can't complain of the price.
Thank you for this in-depth test! I see examples of the Changi CJ-4000Q "3000W" model inverter for sale new for well under $100, and they all claim that it has a pure sine waveform. I only need about 1200W continuous, but I truly need it to be in pure sine waveform, not modified sine waveform. The label on the top of the unit only says "Output Sine Waveform", which I suppose could mean either pure or modified. How confident are you that the AC output is truly a pure sine wave? Thank you!
Thank you! Be sure to share the video link with others, because these videos are becoming more and more of a waste of my time due to a lack of exposure by UA-cam. Inferior videos are getting far more views than mine.
Hi Doug, I am new to tent trailering and am looking for a reasonably priced 2000 (or better) continuous output pure sine wave inverter. Do you have a couple of suggestions? Also wondering what gauge copper cable to run about 12 feet from my batteries to where the inverter will be mounted? Really appreciate your help. Cheers
Hi there. Watch my other video below for a pretty good inverter. 10-12 feet using a 2000W - 2500W unit, 1/0 copper wire. Use welding cable wire, it's cheaper. Thanks for watching ua-cam.com/video/t6MTRxYTXuk/v-deo.html
Would it be possible to plug in (use) a 2,000w heater? And if so, how many hours would it be able to provide power to the heater? Also, how do you charge this battery? And, how long would it take to fully charge it? Thanks for this video, I am looking to get one of these. What happens if I plug-in a three pin UK plug into the battery, would I need to ground it my self?
No, you saw the unit shout down over 1500W. Use the other inverter below, but do not short the AC output. Charging depends on the battery capacity and charger being used. Thanks for watching! ua-cam.com/video/JaH-T-0E0mY/v-deo.html
It's hard to believe that inverter is rated for 4kw as I have a 1kw unit from Renogy purchased in 2014 that is almost the same size. I guess it's the electronics that kept getting smaller compared with my old inverter.
@@electronicsNmore It can do 1,000 watts no problem. Also, it survived being back-fed AC power through the outlets from an inverter generator. I thought I was out some $$$, but both came to life.
i bought the Reliable 3000 watter and it wouldnt power my 6000 BTU A/C where my Harbor Freight 2000 Watt inverter does the job no problems. Like you said its the initial surge where the Reliable shuts down. They have a 6000 watt version of the inverter you are reviewing now but id be afraid to order from China becuse of the supply chain problems.
Nice test and everything, but for loads greater than 1 KW, please use more than one battery (in parallel), so we could tell that the inverter is switching off because of poor construction and not because it is trying to save battery at 11.3 volts. This test is a bit compromised because of that.
I need to upgrade my 48V 20Ah SLA batteries on my scooter next summer. I have to change them every other year at a cost of $250. I don't think I can change the batteries many more times before everything becomes loosey-goosey. I'd like to go for LiFe batteries but big capacity don't come along ever! Plenty of used LiPo from the car industry, but nothing in LiFe. Do you know a good source that ships to Canada and doesn't want my first born?
You may want to check out Bigbattery below for deals, or make a LiFePO4 battery pack using the cells shown in my other video below. Thanks for watching! www.bigbattery.com/ref/19 **electronicsNmore10: 10% Off Discount** (Affiliate Link) ua-cam.com/video/uyAtkGaO0hA/v-deo.html
Years ago I bought a Statpower PROwatt inverter, it was excellent. I used it for many years with no problems at all, and the rating was true. amzn.to/2HHLVr3 (Amazon Affiliate Link)
This inverter looks to be a lower quality construction than the reliable just judging by the internal topology and the output you were able to get out of it. If you want to start electric motors and have an overall more robust inverter the Low-Frequency inverters are definitely the way to go. I just received a 6000watt 48V LF inverter that I purchased from Genetry Solar from a new product line that they just started and it will do the full 6000 watts continuous with a pretty hefty surge limit. Now it's just about having enough battery to supply it when needed.
No problem, did that off camera. It's the inrush that's the problem. Current goes up only a small amount if the blade is very sharp. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore Thank you for the fast reply! I am dealing with inrush on my home A/C as the compresser will start using the generator only a couple of times, then it blows the generators breaker due to the inrush being too high. So I get it. I just didn't know that inrush>running high load. Now I know. Thanks!
11:04 etc. remember....ELI the ICE man.....voltage leads in an inductive ckt, and current leads, in a capacitive ckt.......oldtech...thanks for thee analysisl....bro.....
Inverters are getting cheaper, in the early 1980s in Australia were a dollar per watt. A 500W inverter used to cost $500. Recently I bought a pure sine wave 500W from Jaycar for $150 which replaced a 300W modified sine wave bought years ago for $250.
I already knew that 4000w rating was bs, but then you opened it up and it looked so barebones inside and I lost all hope for it. There aren't even heatsinks ffs!
No way that unit could possibly do 4kW. Remember, battery size in amp hours also determines the amount of watts you can draw from the unit. This means your test is flawed because you need a bigger battery bank to actually conduct the test with cause you can only draw so much current out of a battery for it's maximum current. I would give this unit 2-6 months before it is junk.
When I saw the size of the inverter, I immediately knew 4000 was a con job. As for the battery size, it was just fine. It has no problem at all powering a full 2500W using another inverter that I have, especially the LiFePO4 that can supply high currents. You saw the voltage level, so the tests were not flawed. I challenge anyone to repeat the test using an 8D or larger LiFePO4 battery. I make sure I do things correctly before showing them online. Thanks for watching
A bigger battery or bank is not required as a standard car battery is capable of providing the current necessary to test the surge output of the inverter. The 8D battery should be enough to power a 1kw load for about 30 minutes. Besides, the output wires going to the outlet are not rated for 4kw, such a small gauge wire but they are perfect for 1kw continuous.
The waveform is sine wave, even though it may not be "Pure". It's good enough for powering almost every device. To analyze the waveform much better, up close in detail, I would need a much more expensive O-scope. You can't expect a high "Purity" wave at such a low price. I have a pure sine unit, and it's very expensive for only a 1000W output. As for blowing up the unit, I already lose money spending hours and hours filming/editing videos, so I didn't think it was a smart move to short the output. Unlike other channels, I don't have people supporting my work with thousands of dollars every month, and I've helped many millions with my detailed and well explained repair videos. Thanks for watching
For power tools, I’ve been slowly switching to cordless. I charge my cordless tool batteries DC to DC so there is no need for an AC inverter for my power tools plus cordless is convenient anyway.
I have a 1200w mod sine inverter, it will run a skill saw, i don't know about a chop saw, I don't use it, because there is , or I think there is something wrong with the sine wave, it killed a transformer ina radio, and a CFL light, almost instantly, and the output drops dramatic with battery voltage, I have seen 60vac, at about 10.9v and it was still working, so it's a paper weight, I only gave $40 for it, but my system is 24v, and i do have a small 12v LiFePo4 backup, around 400ah, I would like to get a 12v pure sine inverter that will run the fridge, and microwave, I have a 450watt ups, that's 12v for small stuff, it will power my TV, and charge phones, I have 12v DC lighting, I ran a 10gauge buss line through the house, with 3amp connections, for 1.25-1.5amp LEDs
Could be a faulty or poorly made unit. My modified sine inverter ran everything fine for years, but it did burn up a few cheapo devices that plug directly into a receptacle, because they used transformerless power supplies.
Your previous inverter was junk, had one, they are NOT pure SW but an absolute junk wave and die randomly, I know, had one and many reviewers confirm this.
Your test is crap.1st:the cables between battery and inverter they are very thin(I know you are using the one they send with the unit)but use proper cables to show us what it really can do.2nd:you battery capacity is to small that why the voltage drops super fast
My test was highly reliable. At least I took the time to perform these tests, which I didn't have to. Lose the entitled attitude. Every angle was covered in this video.
A chicom electronic that uses lies to sell their craptacular product? I am shocked. (sarcasm because if a chicom's mouth is open, they are lying, or taking a breath before lying).
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You put an amazing amount of time, effort and expense into all of your videos. I'm buying Amazon products in the future using your affiliate link and sharing your videos with everyone to help support your channel! Thanks again!
Wow, now that's "Platinum" level support! Very much appreciated, especially coming from the king of product testing. :-) Thank you!
You two should do a video together
Good to see you here
There is no better person and more scientific than Project Farm. What a great American! (And, he has the only Farmabago on the planet!!!!!)
Project: I don't see people promoting competitors work. This prompts me to check out your work.
Good test! I bought nearly the same unit but in Australia we have 240V. Just like on your test it came just under half the rated output. So I kept it at 1695 Watts to see how long it lasted. After 7 minutes smoke came out but it was able to restart and work up to 300 W. Upon inspection the main reservoir capacitor had popped. I asked the supplier for a replacement cap. They staunchly refused and after asking too many questions they insisted on return and I got my money back. I should have filmed the smoke. In the overall there is not enough build quality. Should be sold as 1500W inverter!
I would've sold it as a sine wave inverter with 1000W max continuous, 1500W up to 5 minutes, with high surge capability. Hope you were able to swap out the cap. Thanks for watching!
Your $140 inverter is now (3 years later) $190 which translates into $265 Canadian. You have made me feel so much better about my $250 Canadian purchase of CNSwiPower 2kw/4kw peak workhorse beast I made last month and that I did not leave money on the table.
Hello Doug, A thorough and informative review. Thank you for keeping your subs and viewers safe in the market place. Always great videos, now go help Rose. All the best from Oregon, C.
You're welcome Cass! Glad you enjoyed the video! Rose...LOL
Thank you so much for this video, i guess i can skip this inverter. Your methods answered all my questions, keep up the good work.
You explained a lot of what was to me very complex information in a way even I understand. Thank you.
Great to hear Mark! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Very informative! I learned a lot from watching this! Thank you
Glad you liked the video Drew! Be sure to look over my "Solar Energy" video playlist below. I have other testing videos. Sharing links to my videos with others would be appreciated. Thank you
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU2G9fBmFeWCkxD7kEV2fzXF.html
Thank you for a great experience brother. Keep moving forward and success always, God willing☺👏🙏⚘
Here from Project Farm, Great content buddy
Glad you liked the video! PF is a great channel. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore Just subscribed to your channel, Binge watching your videos lol :)
Excellent video as always! Thanks......... 👍👍😉😉
Thanks for watching Steve!
Please address the connection of supercapasitors to enhance surge capacity of solar array loads .
I enjoy your careful and deliberate method.
Excellent.
2 questions... still so much I need to learn.
1> If I wanted to run a continuous 1500 to 4000 watts with occasional surge starting power, is it better to have 4x1000 watts rated inverters instead of 1x4000? I realize that will create more logs with internal circuits and other areas.
2> if trying to save cost, can you use mod sine in a home with a UPS backup power connected to things that require pure sine such as desktop computers?
Hi there. You need one "GOOD" inverter, and I would suggest a sine wave inverter. I can suggest a few if you'd like. 20 years ago I was using modified sine wave units. That said, there are many things that you could power using a modified sine wave inverter. As long as the UPS can tolerate a modified sine input(which it should), then you can do as you stated. Thanks for watching!
At 11:00 you pinpoint an inductor. That inductor along with the blue capacitor next to it makes a low-pass filter that filters the high frequency PWM letting only the 50 or 60Hz sine-wave get through. These inverters are essentially Class D audio amplifiers that amplify a single 50 or 60Hz tone.
I love the price of the new full sine wave inverters. 20 years ago I got a 4KW inverter charger for a remote cabin and it cost about a buck a watt.
A good quality sine wave inverter is around $200 per thousand watts.
Excellent review and through! Same factory probably builds car audio amplifiers too! They (Chinese) have a problem with zeros! Like 4000 watts is really 400 watts (ie: car amp). Note that a couple of the yellow transformers in that inverter said 1.5Kw. I think that says it all.
I was hoping the 1.5kW were used in parallel. :-)
11:00 It's an LC filter that turns high frequency PWM output into a sinewave. Most 2 stage inverters are built in such a way that the first voltage from the battery is boosted up (on that side with lots of smaller MOSFETS) and then high frequency chopped into PWM (on the side with 2 large MOSFETS). Finally the output is filtered out and turned into sinewave using LC filter. Thanks for in depth review. You've saved some people their hard earned cash.
Thanks for the info, and thanks for watching!
I like the idea of using multiple wires on the out put and input connector. I believe three 8 AWG wires would stay cooler then say a single 6 or 4 AWG wire. I'm quite happy with the reliable inverter, I went with 24v and purchased a 12v for the mother in law..
I agree, multiple wires should cool easier.
great info bro
Nice to hear Mike! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thanks
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Can you add a link for that battery operated oscilloscope? Couldn't quite read the label. Thanks.
It's a little expensive, around $380. Made by Velleman. It was cheaper years ago. If you still want links, I'll send them. Thank you!
@@electronicsNmore Nah, just having the brand name should be enough to search the o'scope. I just wanted something to look at the output wave form of my house generator that DID NOT plug into the wall. No need to blow up an o'scope just to satisfy my curiosity.
Will qaulity 1500 inverters run quality 5 " angle grinders for prolonged peroids?
For the sake of the ear drums of people watching this video using earphones, perhaps you could limit the sound level when you start the power saw, other than that, thanks for taking the time to produce these videos, they are a great source of information. Do you think you would have bought this inverter if it was advertised as a 1500 Watt inverter?
Sorry Alan. I did lower the audio way down in the video. You can hear where the audio drops down. When I edit I use headphones, it sounded fine to me. For $142 shipped for a 1000W max continuous sine wave unit with high surge capability, not a bad price. The need to be honest with their ratings. Thank for watching!
Thank you. 🙂
What’s your thought on kreiger 4000 watt
Can you run small floor heaters on that?
I do not recommend this power inverter. Watch my other power inverter video showing a 3000W.
I know it's a 2000w inverter, but isn't it possible given the fact there's only one outlet, that it's limited to 15 amps/ 1875 watts (or +/-1800w)? So maybe two appliances is over that limit? I wonder if there were two outlets if it would be able to handle it?
Super helpful information, congrats
Glad you enjoyed and appreciated the video!
Hi, can it run a 1hp airconditioner??
Engineer: It's 1500 watts peak sir
Boss: Okay so 4000 watts
End user: Here we go again
In all fairness you need a watt meter with a higher sample rate. Reading watts on that cheese LCD display that likely does a lot of averaging to keep it stable and easy to read isn't the best test.
The display wasn't jumping around because of the meter. The heat gun cycling caused that.
@@electronicsNmore My point was it didn't jump around enough. If the sample rate was high enough to see the peak wattage the display would jump around so much you wouldn't be able to read it. If you wanted to know the real peak wattage and continuous average you'd need a sample rate in the millisecond range and a data logger to record the data. You could then export the data and look at it in a graph form and see what is really going on. I'd guess the inverter has a half second sample rate and averages at least two readings to keep the same number on the display long enough for the human eye/brain to read it.
@@NETBotic I see. I thought you were referring to when the display was fluctuating. Yes, a faster sampling rate and we could've seen the peaks better.
Appreciate the British pronunciation of aluminium 👍
You're welcome.
14:20 I wish you had measured the pure sine wave during (pressure)
the inductor on the output side is what creates a pure sine wave
Maybe I missed something, but did you test the sine wave form under load? Without load, the wave can be different. Pure sine should be pure under load, where it's most important to have clean power. Excellent video, BTW.
Replied to this before, the waveform with and without being under load isn't noticeably different. Thanks for watching
At 5:00 I had that unit on the left, (GoPart). I accidentally connected it to a higher wattage device, and it *destroyed* the H.V. Transformer indside the GoPart *IMMEDIATELY!* The current limit *DID-NOT* work!!
I've used it for years on my channel.
Is this 12 volt inverter or 24 volt inverter?
Thanks for the vid 👍 you need to put the tools under some strain, a cordless tool with a low battery will spin the motor but won't do it's job properly, the same will be for this test,
The chop saw under load(cutting wood) will use around the same power or less as a microwave oven at full power. The inverters don't have problems under load if at or below the continuous power rating, usually the problem happens at start-up. Thanks for watching!
I have the 24v 4400 model and I can weld with a 90 amp welder with no problem
4400 model? They only sell them by thousands.
Ive had the giandel 4000/8000 24v for 2 years and it is good for the money but it can't start up my 2200w mitre saw, the company said that is because its start up is over 8000w which I find very difficult to believe, they then said it was my batteries not being enough, I have 16x 180ah LifePo CALB batteries at 24v. Are they right or is this BS?
On my channel my show a 3000w inverter with 6000 W surge that works very well. Check out the video. Thanks for watching
Another great video! I'm sorta new to using solar and hoping for some advice. Is there a tested inverter out there that is reasonably priced that you would recommend? Thanks!
Watch my other video on the Reliable brand inverter. It performed fairly well until I did the AC short circuit test. If you don't short it, not a bad deal. You can buy a smaller 1500/3000 unit for around $189, and it's sine wave output.
@@electronicsNmore thanks! I did watch that video and I was impressed until the end lol I just keep hearing horror stories about how unreliable theses things are. I’m currently using a 3500 watt edecoa but I fear it won’t last.
well i have this camper on a lot a long ways from anything. ya, off grid. I have been using a giandel 1200W inverter for almost three years. Works great, fan comes on when it should, runs the vacuum, and every single morning one or two batches through a 5-cup coffeemaker. it will trip out if i run the vac the same time as I am making coffee but if I am not dumb I do not need a 4000W inverter LOL Other people have had good luck with giandel, and I have seen online where people needed warranty support- and it was there. I also have a 300W pure sine from giandel in the jeep to run my cordless tools chargers
so in spite of whatever happened here I can recommend the giandel product as dependable and reliable...
I am trying to get a pure sine wave power inverter to run 2 industrial sewing machines 400watts each one at home. Which one in your opinion should I buy? What type of battery do I need? What kind? Help please.
Thank you in advance.
A 2000W inverter should be plenty.
@@electronicsNmore thank you, and the battery? What type of battery?
@@bd3155 A 12V LiFePO4 like I show, but they're not cheap.
@@electronicsNmore can I use car battery? Or gel battery? More on the budget?
Also how many Amp?
I have that Changi 4000Q inverter. I didn't expect more than 2000 watts (regardless of the label - the Chinese have an interesting way of computing "peak" power, as a 350 watt inverter can have a 3000 watt peak rating). I found that the Changi shuts down in less than a minute at about 1600 watts (testing at 61F/16C). It also runs the fan continuously at lower power levels. My 2000 watt continuous Reliable inverter can run a 400 watt halogen worklight continuously with the fan running occasionally. The Changi starts the fans in a minute or less with the same load and they run continuously until the load is removed. I think it needs bigger heat sinks and better air flow.
My 12 volt source is a 420AH AGM battery bank so the voltage is relatively stiff. There is an online reference about sealed lead-acid batteries lasting longer with an occasional 10% discharge than when held at float voltage in standby service. I have a long term project of testing that premise on the AGM batteries I installed last year (replacing a set that was almost 9 years old). The 420AH bank gets a 42AH discharge once or twice a month, followed by a full charge. Will it make a difference? Ask me in 9 years ;-)
To start the chopsaw (and similar tools) on an inverter or a generator that doesn't quite have the surge capacity needed, go to
raymondinnovations.com
and check out their GS10 (15 amps) or GS11 (20 amps) soft start devices. They use an NTC resistor that heats up very fast to limit inrush current.
Some chop saws have a startup current of almost 40 amps, so you know that most inverters don't have the fraction of a second of higher output that's needed to get the motor turning.
The Changi is a poorly designed unit, and it does heat up due to inadequate heat sinks. Refer to my other video below. Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/1MPW1dqulWw/v-deo.html
The question is what stops the inverter from working at higher wattage load? Obviously, it is not because of voltage drop of the battery. Could it be the high temperature? Does it mean that if the unit got better heat dissipating ability, it would allow higher wattage load?
Excessive heat. Maybe adding a high CFM fan would allow higher current loads longer. Thanks for watching Joe!
That inductor, along the ~3μF cap next to it form the spwm filter. Nothing to do with inrush currents.
And the control board might be eg8010 based with a pair of counterfreight ir2110 or ir2113.
Might worth a check. The chip usually doesn't die but the gate drivers do.
And replacing the brass piece of... wire used as a current sensing resistor with a calibrated, low tolerance shunt resistor, might save you even in dead short circuits.
Those gate drivers pop like corn on fire if fake. The original International Rectifier ones survive even blown high-side fets.
I bought the 24v version of this exact unit and have come to the same conclusions. This is a 1000w continuous inverter. 1200w for 15 mins (good enough for a toaster) but don't expect anything more than that. The way the mosfets are mounted, makes additional cooling options impossible. I bought mine for 150 Canadian bucks from aliexpress. Yes there are better but I can't complain of the price.
It has it's uses.
What size of wire is used from inverter to battery?
Depends on the inverter size.
nice video.. do you try this inverter with welding machine?
No, because the power output was so far off.
Very meticulous of you. 🤔😏
Like it.
Is it available in 24v?
did you watch the video? at the start he states 12, 24, 48, 60 volt models
Yes, sold in 4 versions.
Thank you for this in-depth test! I see examples of the Changi CJ-4000Q "3000W" model inverter for sale new for well under $100, and they all claim that it has a pure sine waveform. I only need about 1200W continuous, but I truly need it to be in pure sine waveform, not modified sine waveform. The label on the top of the unit only says "Output Sine Waveform", which I suppose could mean either pure or modified. How confident are you that the AC output is truly a pure sine wave? Thank you!
It's pure sine wave, the scope doesn't lie. :-)
@@electronicsNmore Thank you for your prompt response!
Great Video Keep up the good work
Thank you! Be sure to share the video link with others, because these videos are becoming more and more of a waste of my time due to a lack of exposure by UA-cam. Inferior videos are getting far more views than mine.
Unmasking fools everybody have their own opinions press on his profile if you want to see what I'm talking about
Or you can solder the ground cable to the neutral. If you look carefully they already combined the chassis ground with the neutral.
thank you for the information sir.
You're welcome Leo! I have many more videos that should be of interest to you. Tomorrow morning is another inverter testing video. Thanks for watching
Hi Doug, I am new to tent trailering and am looking for a reasonably priced 2000 (or better) continuous output pure sine wave inverter. Do you have a couple of suggestions? Also wondering what gauge copper cable to run about 12 feet from my batteries to where the inverter will be mounted? Really appreciate your help. Cheers
Hi there. Watch my other video below for a pretty good inverter. 10-12 feet using a 2000W - 2500W unit, 1/0 copper wire. Use welding cable wire, it's cheaper. Thanks for watching
ua-cam.com/video/t6MTRxYTXuk/v-deo.html
Thank you very much, i think best choice gonna be to buy inverter from US or EU with more quality
Check out my other review Mike. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/t6MTRxYTXuk/v-deo.html
@@electronicsNmore thanks ;)
Would it be possible to plug in (use) a 2,000w heater? And if so, how many hours would it be able to provide power to the heater? Also, how do you charge this battery? And, how long would it take to fully charge it? Thanks for this video, I am looking to get one of these. What happens if I plug-in a three pin UK plug into the battery, would I need to ground it my self?
No, you saw the unit shout down over 1500W. Use the other inverter below, but do not short the AC output. Charging depends on the battery capacity and charger being used. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/JaH-T-0E0mY/v-deo.html
It's hard to believe that inverter is rated for 4kw as I have a 1kw unit from Renogy purchased in 2014 that is almost the same size. I guess it's the electronics that kept getting smaller compared with my old inverter.
Yours is probably realistically rated. LOL
@@electronicsNmore It can do 1,000 watts no problem. Also, it survived being back-fed AC power through the outlets from an inverter generator. I thought I was out some $$$, but both came to life.
@@JT-lq4yd I got by on 1000w when I lived in the Bahamas.
i bought the Reliable 3000 watter and it wouldnt power my 6000 BTU A/C where my Harbor Freight 2000 Watt inverter does the job no problems. Like you said its the initial surge where the Reliable shuts down. They have a 6000 watt version of the inverter you are reviewing now but id be afraid to order from China becuse of the supply chain problems.
Nice test and everything, but for loads greater than 1 KW, please use more than one battery (in parallel), so we could tell that the inverter is switching off because of poor construction and not because it is trying to save battery at 11.3 volts. This test is a bit compromised because of that.
You got very reliable testing. I switched to the 12V LiFePO4 to rule out exactly what you said, you saw the results. Thanks for watching!
How many amp is your converter?
The inverter? Has around 300 hundred amps input.
I have the 3000W 12V model. Is it moddable to 24V or 48V?
PCB transformers would need to be swapped out, and possibly other components.
For the price i was thinking 2000w/4000w peak also
So Chinese 4000W is equivalent to what in real watts?
🤣 In this case 1000W continuous, and a surge rating probably 2500-3000W. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore what would happen if you chopped some wood?
1300w max
I need to upgrade my 48V 20Ah SLA batteries on my scooter next summer.
I have to change them every other year at a cost of $250. I don't think I can change the batteries many more times before everything becomes loosey-goosey.
I'd like to go for LiFe batteries but big capacity don't come along ever!
Plenty of used LiPo from the car industry, but nothing in LiFe.
Do you know a good source that ships to Canada and doesn't want my first born?
You may want to check out Bigbattery below for deals, or make a LiFePO4 battery pack using the cells shown in my other video below. Thanks for watching!
www.bigbattery.com/ref/19
**electronicsNmore10: 10% Off Discount**
(Affiliate Link)
ua-cam.com/video/uyAtkGaO0hA/v-deo.html
What do you recommend for the $ on a 2k or 4k inverter with or without battery charger
Years ago I bought a Statpower PROwatt inverter, it was excellent. I used it for many years with no problems at all, and the rating was true.
amzn.to/2HHLVr3
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
@@electronicsNmore That link doesn't show any of their inverters
I'm looking for 24v 2000 or bigger with battery charger
Yes. They're shown. Look for Xantrex PROwatt
This inverter looks to be a lower quality construction than the reliable just judging by the internal topology and the output you were able to get out of it. If you want to start electric motors and have an overall more robust inverter the Low-Frequency inverters are definitely the way to go. I just received a 6000watt 48V LF inverter that I purchased from Genetry Solar from a new product line that they just started and it will do the full 6000 watts continuous with a pretty hefty surge limit. Now it's just about having enough battery to supply it when needed.
Please put the saws under load to see if they can cut and not just free run.
No problem, did that off camera. It's the inrush that's the problem. Current goes up only a small amount if the blade is very sharp. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore Thank you for the fast reply! I am dealing with inrush on my home A/C as the compresser will start using the generator only a couple of times, then it blows the generators breaker due to the inrush being too high. So I get it. I just didn't know that inrush>running high load. Now I know. Thanks!
I have no idea why they make battery cable ends like that, what's wrong with everything being inline???, like the old ones!!
Where in the video?
11:04 etc. remember....ELI the ICE man.....voltage leads in an inductive ckt, and current leads, in a capacitive ckt.......oldtech...thanks for thee analysisl....bro.....
Good channel
Thank you! Be sure to share it with others.
Inverters are getting cheaper, in the early 1980s in Australia were a dollar per watt. A 500W inverter used to cost $500. Recently I bought a pure sine wave 500W from Jaycar for $150 which replaced a 300W modified sine wave bought years ago for $250.
Nice job god bless
Thank you
How much
You don't want this one, it's only 1500W peak. The one I tested below is good. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/t6MTRxYTXuk/v-deo.html
Aluminium or Chinesium
🤣
for that price point I'd be very surprised if it was pure sine, and would expect it to actually be a modified or square wave inverter
100% pure sine wave, as shown in the video on my oscilloscope. How "pure" it is, that's a different story. :-) Thanks for watching!
I had the scope on and above 1600W the capacitor could no longer keep up.
@@LawpickingLocksmith Good info!
I already knew that 4000w rating was bs, but then you opened it up and it looked so barebones inside and I lost all hope for it. There aren't even heatsinks ffs!
No way that unit could possibly do 4kW. Remember, battery size in amp hours also determines the amount of watts you can draw from the unit. This means your test is flawed because you need a bigger battery bank to actually conduct the test with cause you can only draw so much current out of a battery for it's maximum current. I would give this unit 2-6 months before it is junk.
When I saw the size of the inverter, I immediately knew 4000 was a con job. As for the battery size, it was just fine. It has no problem at all powering a full 2500W using another inverter that I have, especially the LiFePO4 that can supply high currents. You saw the voltage level, so the tests were not flawed. I challenge anyone to repeat the test using an 8D or larger LiFePO4 battery. I make sure I do things correctly before showing them online. Thanks for watching
A bigger battery or bank is not required as a standard car battery is capable of providing the current necessary to test the surge output of the inverter. The 8D battery should be enough to power a 1kw load for about 30 minutes. Besides, the output wires going to the outlet are not rated for 4kw, such a small gauge wire but they are perfect for 1kw continuous.
A little disappointed you didn’t smoke test the output. LOL
Too bad part of your testing is not actually taking a look at the output waveform as well.
The waveform is sine wave, even though it may not be "Pure". It's good enough for powering almost every device. To analyze the waveform much better, up close in detail, I would need a much more expensive O-scope. You can't expect a high "Purity" wave at such a low price. I have a pure sine unit, and it's very expensive for only a 1000W output. As for blowing up the unit, I already lose money spending hours and hours filming/editing videos, so I didn't think it was a smart move to short the output. Unlike other channels, I don't have people supporting my work with thousands of dollars every month, and I've helped many millions with my detailed and well explained repair videos. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore ... The reason for the “LOL” ... don’t blame you.
I know, I just wanted others to have a good understanding of why I didn't do it. Thanks for watching
4000W? Is full of shit !!! The saw was just turning not working!!!!🤔🤔😒😒 Good video thanx !!👌👌
nice review, too bad that the inverter didnt even make 2kw.
Yes, sad. Hopefully the newer 3000W inverter I'm about to test will perform well.
dam koto vaiya.......?
For power tools, I’ve been slowly switching to cordless. I charge my cordless tool batteries DC to DC so there is no need for an AC inverter for my power tools plus cordless is convenient anyway.
I like to have both on hand. Thanks for watching Steve!
So, the rating are peak to peak.
I have no clue how they arrived at 4000W. LOL
And saw a log !
👍
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to share. Thank you
You have to provide enough Power to the damn inverter in the first place.
Go buy one genius. LOL
Florida rules
I have a 1200w mod sine inverter, it will run a skill saw, i don't know about a chop saw, I don't use it, because there is , or I think there is something wrong with the sine wave, it killed a transformer ina radio, and a CFL light, almost instantly, and the output drops dramatic with battery voltage, I have seen 60vac, at about 10.9v and it was still working, so it's a paper weight, I only gave $40 for it, but my system is 24v, and i do have a small 12v LiFePo4 backup, around 400ah, I would like to get a 12v pure sine inverter that will run the fridge, and microwave, I have a 450watt ups, that's 12v for small stuff, it will power my TV, and charge phones, I have 12v DC lighting, I ran a 10gauge buss line through the house, with 3amp connections, for 1.25-1.5amp LEDs
Could be a faulty or poorly made unit. My modified sine inverter ran everything fine for years, but it did burn up a few cheapo devices that plug directly into a receptacle, because they used transformerless power supplies.
4000 watts/12 = 333.3333 Amps ... oh plz
Many Chinese companies love lying about specs to sell things.
@@electronicsNmore yes they do.
DUde how many BATTERIES are you using? Don't be a troll I see ONE BATTERY
Seriously? You always speak to people like you're a kid? Unreal. Find another channel to watch.
They are just flat out lying about it. There is just no way I would trust that to run at 2kw for long periods of time.
Yes. We learned what it can do. :-)
Be lucky if it doesn't burn the house down.
ڈالر کو کنٹرول کرنے میں بالکل ناکام ہوچکی ہے حکومت کیسی ترقی
🖖 👍
Your previous inverter was junk, had one, they are NOT pure SW but an absolute junk wave and die randomly, I know, had one and many reviewers confirm this.
4000w >>>> 1500w
Your test is crap.1st:the cables between battery and inverter they are very thin(I know you are using the one they send with the unit)but use proper cables to show us what it really can do.2nd:you battery capacity is to small that why the voltage drops super fast
My test was highly reliable. At least I took the time to perform these tests, which I didn't have to. Lose the entitled attitude. Every angle was covered in this video.
A chicom electronic that uses lies to sell their craptacular product? I am shocked. (sarcasm because if a chicom's mouth is open, they are lying, or taking a breath before lying).
Yeah but to fair you are using a crap battery tech - invest in a Lifep04 battery and then you will see
Hate to tell you, but using a better battery(which I use in other videos), makes no difference for this power inverter.
pls read this
What are you talking about?
What a poc don't say 4000W when it doesn't even come close to that
Typical of many Chinese companies. They lie to sell products. Thanks for watching!