Easiest Way to Calibrate E-Steps on 3D Printer with a Bowden Tube | Extruder Calibration Ender 3 Pro
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- How to calibrate E-steps on Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer - actually, this will work for any 3D printer with a Bowden Tube.
I just installed a dual extruder on my Ender 3 Pro and found that my E-steps were off, this is the follow up to that install and how I easily calibrated the dual extruder.
E-Steps can be a pain sometimes to diagnose. You might sometimes think it's a clogged nozzle or filament issue or heck even a hotend issue. Then, low and behold, after painstakingly checking all those things, you find it was an extruder issue all along. This is a super-easy way to figure out what your E-Steps are and how to properly calibrate your e-steps for your 3D printer.
So many tutorials out there make you connect your computer and use some type of controller and it can be a pain. Not to mention if you have an Apple computer the software isn't supported... (me) So fear not. Just follow this tutorial and your e-steps will be properly calibrated without pulling out any hair or crying. (unless your crying that you haven't done this sooner)
** Disclaimer**
This is for finding e-steps and calibrating them if you only have a 3D printer with a bowden tube. this tutorial will not work if you have a direct drive.
Little hint for us newbies. Hit "save settings" or you'll be doing this all over again next time you turn the printer on.
Well that is not every time.... i will have to check ik every time when i want to print someting en most pf the times it go's back to 93.... i just want that i can change that thing and it stays the same.... but i dont know how... can some body tell me please 😢
Go in config and click store setting
Thank you Chris!!!!
You have solved ALL of my printer issues with this video.
Short back story, I bought an older Ender 5 pro a couple of weeks ago, second hand but in good condition as far as I could tell. Prior to this I had zero experience with any kind of 3d printing.
My printer came with a couple of rolls of filament, I put the first roll onto the printer that I touched in the box, it was PETG.
I struggled for many hours to get anything to stick to the build plate at a wide range of temperatures tested.
Then I realized that I had PETG on there and changed it for a PLA filament roll. Now I could get it to stick to the build plate, sometimes, but prints were bad, failures invariably started with the nozzle blobbing on the infill and dragging it around.
I went down many rabbit holes on UA-cam, briefly explored E step setting but shied away from it because it involved connecting my computer to the printer.
Then I saw your video about printing and measuring the wall thickness on the small cube with no infill. I managed to PLA print one which barely held up but it allowed me to measure the wall thickness.
I have a 0.4mm nozzle in the machine, the wall thickness was about half of that, just over 0.2mm!
That lesson led me to this one and voila! the 100mm test extrusion measured just 40.86mm.
In short order I changed the Estep calibration to 227.6, the next 100mm test extrusion came out at 100.35mm.
The new hollow cube tested at almost exactly 0.4mm.
I am now turning out PETG prints with ease using almost standard Cura settings.
Thanks again, SUBSCRIBED!
Don't forget to store settings and make a note. My Ender 5 pro seems to lose it's steps periodically and it is nice to have it written so you don't have to redo.
You sir are awesome, i recently purchased an ender 3 v2, for days i couldn't figure out what was wrong with the printer only to find it was extruding 65mm and not 10mm. Thank You for your posts.
Two years later this helped me out. I just updated my Anet ET4pro to Marlin and step 1 was setting my Esteps. Glad I did caus it was giving 105mm when I asked for 100. Thanks
Holy crap - idk why I've never thought of this, I always extrude it through the hot end like a dolt. Trying to constantly measure from the back end of the machine - you are a wizard harry
Ha ha. I’m glad I could make it easier on you!
Your supose to cause of the resistance that getting the plastic out
Make
You definitely made it easier than it sounded like it was going to be. Looking forward to getting my printer and the more of these i watch im feeling more comfortable about all the little things i need to know to keep it running well and getting the best results in my prints Thanks again
Awesome! I’ve said it before but your going to be way ahead of most when you get it. It’s smart to learn as much as you can before you start.
Bro it's been one year, how did it go?
This is the most explanatory video I've seen. Very easy to understand with the display of tables.
I just upgrade my Ender 3 like you did.
Thanks a lot
@@princeofdew8980 life happened lol still haven’t been able to get a printer yet as I have more pressing issues but I’m forever hopeful it will be soon. Until then like the man said I just keep trying to learn until then lol
Awesome video my friend, I've been sturggling for a ful day to figure out why my new extruder wasn't working properly, this simple-to-understand method, well-presented too, made it super easy and now my printer is back up and running! Brilliant work, thanks a million pal! Have a blessed 2024! :D
A lot more people should be looking at this video, and giving you a thumb's UP.
Oh wow. Thanks so much. I really hope it helped you.
This is the best video on how to do this! I was crapping myself over having to do this but now I feel a lot more confident 😌 thank you 😊 🙏
Your very welcome. I’m glad it was helpful.
When I watch your videos, I start thinking about the reward. This is absolutely unique, easy to understand and applicable help. Thank you. 👍
... that was so freakin' easy. Learned something new today. I'll be looking into my e steps settings even thought it's been printing fine. You can never finish fine tuning your printer.
That’s awesome glad it was something new for you! Your right, you can always keep tuning your printer to work even better!
Wow that was easy, other videos make it sound so complicated
Yeah. It’s not hard I knew how to do it and other videos confused me. So I’m right there with you.
watching this i was supprise how close your steps were to the ones they list on the product page on amazon, they tell you to update your steps to 139 on the amazon page, which honestly could come down to measuring error, I guess It makes sense, if you know how far a stepper motor will turn each step, and you are the manufacturer of the gears, you know the ratios.
ALSO, this was awesome, and i learned quite a bit about calibrating this, thanks for the simple and effective process.
I went from getting 95mm when I asked for 100 to 100. Worked great though not without a frustration when I tried to extrude with the nozzle cold. Realized that the Ender 3 wouldn't take an extrusion command cold. A type of failsafe in the software. In spirit thank you for helping with a process that's uncomplicated.
What I mentioned in my comment is likely what A Biggs was having issue with.
Same here. I taught I’ve a burnt out motor because I change my extruder and my hot end after experiencing a blockage. 😂
2 years later im here to say thank you :) it works perfect :D
Installed a BL Touch yesterday, but for some reason, my prints kept digging into the first layer really harshly for some reason. Checked back at this video to see if my calibrations were off only to notice my extruder was set to 400 god dang steps per mm instead of 90. Thing was making a mountain, and I was upset it couldn't find its way around it. Thanks mate!
Thanks a lot! This is most intuitive and easiest set of steps to do on an Ender 3!
Glad it helped!
That was so much easier and smoother then the way i was trying to do it... Thank you so much for this!
Awesome! It truly is an easy way to do it.
you make it very easy to understand
Thank you. That is my goal always! 😁
thanks for this video!... it saved me a ton of work. I'm not sure how but I changed to the same set up as you as far as extruders and my e steps were set to just under 400 (massive over extrusion), after a quick lesson thanks to your video I'm now set at a modest 94 and my prints are back on track... thanks again!
awesome video straight forward and much easier, than the other ones i watched. thank you
Awesome glad it helped
Fantastic! I swapped to metal extruder gears and got clogs. I’ll try this, thanks!
That’s awesome hope it works well for you.
I'm going to go try this. I have to push the filament for it to come out when doing bed leveling test.
Thank you thank you thank you. My ender 3 came new with esteps-424.9!
Thanks for this, love your content. Easy to follow, especially for a newbie. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your clear instructions again! got another printer and here we are again :)
Awesome Demo.... Hopefully this solves my issue 🤞
Like many, I thought at first that it had yo be done through the hot end. Thanks for the clarifications. One question though.. why do you heat up the hot end at the beginning if youre not gonna use it?
Thank you, thank you very much mate. This video really helped me a lot 👍
Hey man! Just wanted to drop a thanks!!! Something I tried was putting the lock ring on the bowden tube push down thingy (you can tell I'm technical) and then cutting it in the event your ring is soft. any ways thanks for the video and thanks for the help!!!
Your very welcome glad I could help you!
I did this exact same method but I enable Cold extrusion (M302 P1) I used a GodHand SPN-120 snipper for a flat cut
This is the truth, thank you for sharing with us!!
Super helpful. Thank you! My E-steps were way off
Thank you 4 the simple guide
You are very welcome. Good luck with your esteps
perfect way! got it accurate now
i've had my printer for 3 years, never done this. but sounds easy
I dunno man just e-steps lol love it.
😁
@@ItsMeaDMaDe just grabbed my first 3d printer and have been watching all your stuff. Thank you.
@@masonstormer oh man that’s awesome. Just be warned it’s an addictive hobby! If you ever need help or have questions feel free to join my free UA-cam discord server
discord.gg/tTH9Ef2Z
I also have a bunch of new Cura tutorials to help you with slicing. Best of luck!!
Please remember tis is for Bowden Cable Printers - Close Coupled need a different way ie Measure amount goi n into the Driver
Your estep is supose to be calculated with the resistance that extruding plastic trough the tip , so to remove the ptfe you will not have a 100 mm when it come outside of the nozzle
Nice and easy, and gave me an excuse to buy calipers! Thanks
easier to just remove the quick connect fitting and cut flush to the extruder. simply because the quick connect can move in and out. not to mention it's easier that trying to remove the tubing.
Also measure the tip to the extruder, if you cut then measure it's going to be off because the top of flush cutters stretches the material as it has a beveled edge on top to cut flush on the bottom.
Thanks for this video, it was simplistic and helped me a lot. Does this work with dual extruders? I have the Geeetech a10m and was wondering if I had to do this with both extruders or does this set both.
I don't know for sure, but I *think* this is actually inaccurate because you have to take into account the speed in which it melts through the nozzle.
Also, instead of using calipers, using a string and ruler would be more accurate since you can rid the variable of bend
I could be wrong.
You are wrong. In fact, just a quick look at what this man prints is enough to trust his word on calibration settings
@@ToeBlake316 You seem rather heated?
Thanks so much ! been having problems printing.
That is really really simple. Thanks!
That was the goal too many people over complicate it.
great help !! Mine was at 97.5mm, now its at about 99.6mm.
Thats fantastic! Good Luck with your fine tuned 3D printer!
I just kinda mentioned this on credit a couple of says ago and pretty much get reamed for it
I bought an Anicubyc cobra max printer and it did a few prints with a satisfactory level of quality and then it started to have under extrusion the whole object has holes in it. I tried various flow and temperature settings and a lot of other things, but there was no change for the better. Then I wanted to do an e-step calibration with the pronterface and I noticed that the extruder stops three or four times while pushing the 100 mm filament and then continues, regardless of whether it pushes the filament through the hot head or directly from the extruder without a bowden tube. There is no way I can set it to push exactly 100mm, it always has underextrusion, sometimes by 25mm, and it always pushes less than 100mm. The gears in the extruder are good and clean. Could you give me some advice if the problem is in the motor, the motherboard, the voltage that the motor receives or what it is about. Thanks a lot.
Do you have a video on how to do the e-steps (steps/mm) for the x, y and z e-steps (steps/mm)?
A G2. Good man.
Do I just do the same if I'm over extruding when I do it it's extruding about 120 mm for the first step with my printer set to 93?
Should I be calibrating E steps first then flow rate?
Again Brilliant
Why not get some masking Tape and stick them down 100 mm apart
Yeah you could totally do that.
Cool, easy steps to follow, easy math. What's the point of preheating your hot end though?
Your very welcome.
The hotend needs to be on so the printer will extrude. There are safety steps built into the printer so it can’t push filament without the nozzle being hot.
Worked great! Appreciate it!
thanx man that so helpful but i dont have option esteps on screen elegoo neptune 3 so i should connect it to pc ;D
Tha nk.from England, cheers m8
yeah, that looks dead easy, unfortunatly my anycubic predator seams to not have any of these options in the menu..
My ender 5 plus doesn't have this and it's pushing 65 on my new dual exstruder.
hi e steps i followed your you tube to make sure it was right , i calibrated it and got it to 99.95 and i redone it to make sure but it was a different size , i tried again and got another different size , now confused ?
Question.. Why did you heat up the hot end? :)
I don't see that control option in my Ender 3 pro menu.
Now to figure out how to do this with my Neptune 3
Sadly my bowden tube us stuck i can remove it without breaking the copler thingy i was hiping for a way to calubrate without remiving the tube
Yeah that happens. The coupler is a wearable part that breaks. I just bought a bag of them off Amazon for cheap when they do fail.
How do I do this on the anycubic viper?
i did this, with octoprint, for my elegoo Neptune 2s...
stock E steps were 134..... But when extruding 10cm.. it only gave me 9.5cm...
So used your calculation, 134 x 100 Divide by 95.03225 = 141....
So sent the command as shown here.....etc
And now my prints are terrible quality....
Hey dawg, take that yellow flat spring off and replace it with your weaker stock one. It's too much force, it'll make the gears grind down and self destruct
Not all 3d printers can be setup without connecting to a computer. Very important to note that.
OrcaSlicer is a great slicer that allows direct terminal access. Makes it very easy to send commands or read settings from the printer.
Alternatively you can use OctoPrint.
I've had the Jerk Control option checked for the past 3 days and I think I'm doing something wrong, because my brother and his wife are still here.
Great video!!! It helped a lot!!!
🤩
Thank you!!!🎉
Hi Chris thank you for this video, I’m trying this method on my ender 3 but the filament is not extruding at all. I’m a nooby at this. Would appreciate some input please.
Is it not extruding from the stepper motor or not extruding from the nozzle? If it’s the nozzle you probably have a clog. I did a video on how to replace an nozzle and also a video on clearing a clogged nozzle.
It’s not extruding from the motor, the only way that I could get it to work was by getting it to start printing a file then pausing the printer, at that point I was able to change the extrusion amount to 100mm. There has to be an easier way. By the way thanks for your reply.
@@abiggs66 that’s extremely odd. I’ve never heard of that. Are you sure your selecting the right thing to make the motor work? If your on Instagram find me and send me DM.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe ok
You can run a print pause it then run the estep calibration or alternatively Settings screen, Control, Temperature, Nozzle, raise the temp to maybe 140c then the Extruder Stepper will be enabled by the software and then the calibration can be performed.
Aren't you suppose to measure from the inlet side of the extruder as the filament goes through the hotend? You heated up your hotend for what exactly?
With the ender 3 you have to have the hotend heated or the printer will not extrude filament. As for the inlet it really doesn’t matter what side how ever goes in is the same that goes out.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Ok cool. Was a little confused but that makes sense. I've seen other guides say you need to measure the filament going through the hotend and then other guides say NOT to run the filament through the hotend very weird.
@@vzjrz yeah it really doesn’t matter if it goes through or not. The whole point of e-steps is measuring the amount of feed from the z stepper motor. That is what your measuring it doesn’t matter where the filament is going.
10:26
Hi, I am experiencing a ridge or a little hump line along the y-axis face of my prints that happens at about 15mm from the bed, all the time. Could this be due to e-step out of calibration or something else. Appreciate your help or please direct me to your video that has a solution to this.
You don't need calipers to measure length - a ruler would be just fine.
I did all this but now I’m getting different lengths of filament when I command it to extrude 100mm. Do you know why?
Hrm… sometimes you have to do it more than once to fine tune it. I would repeat the process. I have done it 3 times to get my e-steps right before.
hey I have a ender 3 s1. what do I do if I don't have the same printer as you. can you help me pls thanks
That's a direct drive printer, right? This doesn't work for direct drive. My printer is direct drive also. Bummer!
But wouldn't you want to be extruding through the nozzle, since the added friction of pushing through the tube and the nozzle would throw that number off?
No. Because your esteps are not the filament extruded. It’s the length of filament pushed through the extruder motor. Since your nozzle sizes can change it wound be hard to figure out what estep you should use. Also it would be hot plastic and impossible to measure.
@ItsMeaDMaDe You measure from the other end of the extruder. Mark 120mm out from the extruder, extrude 100mm, then measure the distance from the extruder to the mark, and subtract it from the original 120 to get your actual extrusion. That's how I've always heard you're supposed to do it, and in my experience extruding without it hooked up isn't accurate to when it's connected to the hot end, because of the resistance the filament meets.
@@Jorvalt You want to measure without the hot end hooked up. You are calibrating the E stepper motor. E steps doesnt and isnt supposed to account for friction of the boden tube, back pressure, or possible clogs. Thats the point of the slicer flow rating and calibrating that on a per roll basis if not more frequently. If you calibrate with the hot end in the equation, you are going to make it incredibly hard to isolate future problems you may have.
Perfect!
Unfortunately I don't have the Esteps parameter in my Creality CR-10. I don't think the ability to change that was added until much later (Ender3).
My ender 3 also doesn't have that
@@thebigdr Since I posted that, I have upgraded the firmware on my CR-10 using the TH3D Unified 2 Firmware. I now have "steps/mm" for the extruder as well as the X, Y, and Z axis. I picked up a number of other features as well since my CR-10 is pretty old compared to today's printers. So it was well worth the effort. They have firmware for MANY printers, Ender3's included. There were a number of steps that I had to follow though, including updating the board so that it had a bootloader on it. So I would say if you know what you're doing, it's worth it. But proceed carefully.
@robmcdonald6808
This doesn't account for the speed at which the nozzle can extrude it due to flow though. IE back pressure due to nozzle size and temperature setting. Is that an issue you have experienced?
If i recalibrate my esteps Do I need to recalibrate my z-offset since I'm possibly extruding more filament?
Esteps shouldn't affect your z height. If your dialed in there, it still will be after estep calibration.
Has anyone have had an E-step calibration that sent you out in left field? I double and triple checked my math but I still get bad results. My measured estep is 66.10mm out of a 100mm. My estep in the machine is 93.0. I ended up with 1.513 with a new estep of 140.7. and ended up with almost 200mm of filament. Needless to say I cant get good results with this methods. Im wondering if I have a bigger issue.
No. I have have heard of it’s extreme on the beginning measurement but not after the calculated change. That is extremely odd. What kinda printer do you have? This does only work with printers that have a Bowden tube. This also could be a sign that your extruder drive is going out. They do go out or yours isn’t working right. Not saying that is the issue just it could potentially be the issue.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I worked out the correct estep. I got to 78.4mm so I played with the numbers Abita and found 141.3 estep was the golden number for me. I extruded 99.98 +/- .02 out if three runs.
@@octogames6823 great. I’m glad you got it.
Too bad i can't do this on the cr10
I don't understand why you preheated the nozzle.
To reverse the filament out of the extruder safely and without damaging the hotend.
100mm and getting 95…. 😢
Hope I can follow this vid 😢
67mm jesuschrist xD The importance of calibrating tools.
CURRENT E-STEP * 100/ MESAURMENT
Thanks, helped me out a lot!😄