Not a bad explaination of the process. Next up you should try using the horizontal and hole expansion settings. They let you compensate for the issues a little easier. The hole one comes in really handy because it lets you shrink or enlarge just the holes rather than the whole part.
I actually started out 3D modeling before I ever printed anything, so when I was already pretty familiar with it when I finally got a printer. For a while I just made individual parts (or who's interaction didn't much matter), but when I finally needed something to hold together, I did some tests prints and figured out that 0.2mm offset is good for sliding, and 0.1mm for a fricton fit (at least with larger parts, on ones that are only a few millimeters it seems to need to be bumped up 0.1mm more), at least for my printer, not sure how it would work for others (and don't forget to fillet your vertical corners BlargNaut )
Just wanted to say, i am new to 3D printing and i have watched a lot of UA-cam trying to get my head around this addictive, hobby but your videos are by far the most helpful. keep it up please.
Very informative, you covered a few things I wouldn't have thought about. Especially only scaling down one part instead of both. Common sense, but that would not have occured to me until I ran the print. Good to have you back, looking forward to see the progress on the shop.
You've just dipped your toe into GD&T they teach in engineering school. I typically print models I've done, most of my modeling are machine upgrades, things for around the house or models for my customers. GD&T is super important when you're trying to get it to fit onto a machine. I would say the best thing to do would be print a 1"x1"x1" cube and measure, use a calibration cube for each material (assuming you can keep your humidity under control. I understand what you're saying that the modelers are living in paradise since we can make all the adjustments. I always joke, I can make anything look good on the computer.
If you have an stl you could split the model in Tinkercad and then scale just the peg. And some slicers let you split an stl so you don’t even need Tinkercad.
Love your very informative videos. One thing I do to help parts fit is I scale them in Blender on the two axes that need to be changed. I will do a few test prints to see what works. It's super easy to do, press TAB to go into edit mode after you select your object, then just select the part of the object you need to scale, press S for scale, then hold down shift and press either X and Y, or whatever 2 axes you need, X and Z, etc., then type "0.95" for 95% for example I've tried 0.95, 0.90, 0.85 and usually 0.95 works great. Of course this is once your printer is printing accurately.
hi, thanks for your videos.. very intersting ! i think there is a different between "tolerance" realted to tools precision and "gap" between pieces witch allow movement.
For anyone who wants a simple solution for 2 parts not sliding in each other . Give a simple 0.2 clearance . It works for all sized parts . For example -There is a shaft of dia 10 and it needs to be slide in a hole of 10, keep dia of hole 10.2 and there will be no issue Same method for all shapes I have been working with 3d printed parts for 5 years and this methods never fails All the best
You can also in Prusa slicer you can just add a box modifier around the peg and put the setting in to do external perimeters first and a lot of times that will give you enough room to be able to slide those parts in easily you can also use the cut tool and isolate just the peg that way you can change just the percentage size on the peg of your X & Y axis that way the main portion of the print doesn't change in size only the peg
to adjust the model something that works very well for simple shapes is csg tools like microsoft 3d builder, you basically add or remove shapes from your model, that allows you to remove a peg or ball joint, then add a slightly smaller one without having to ask the artist. another option is to use your volume to cut out the part you need to scale and only scale that part, then you can stitch the model back by adding a cube or cylinder
I was experimenting with X-Y hole and contour compensation and it seems to work for nuts and bolts and whatever, so I guess it can work for this as well.
Hi I have just bought a SUNLU s9 plus printer and I’m stumped. My test file printed after setup but now I can’t get anything out of it. The first layers just won’t stick and I get a bowl of spaghetti I know I have watched one of your vids that could help but I can’t find it now. Can you please help
That’s interesting the resins I’ve used never so I’ve never experienced that. Is there a specific type of resin or brand? But you probably could use the calculator I made in the same way to fine what you need to scale it too to accommodate the shrinking.
My issue is print in place interlocked models like puzzles. The parts never have enough clearance unless the modeller makes it so. Going to try some of the suggestions here in Orca and Cura.
Thank you this should help me I've been trying to upscale this file and do some modeling of this file for months now I've wasted so much $ in resin for this custom BJD model doll of Mara Sov for ever and just can't get nothing to scale or fit right
Hey , I want to correct you here . 6:08 Tolerance is the amount of error that can be tolerated during manufacturing. Clearance is the gap or space you provide between two mating parts, such as a shaft and a hole.
I’d expect to use a tolerance of about the radius of the nozzle. The filament thickness becomes roughly the diameter of the nozzle, so half of the filament thickness ends up inside the part, the other half outside of the part. Given an exact print, this expansion of the filament will overlap, by exactly the radius of the nozzle. A .4mm nozzle needs .2mm tolerance to fit. So you’d need to move both walls apart by .1mm. Make sure to not accidentally double the tolerance, especially when making screw holes But a 3D print is never perfect and exact so your mileage may vary.
you're reaching for the bottom one on your scale so if you want a better fit you should print one that's tighter, even if that one is sufficient. (like maybe .3 or .4 would be perfect) for angles, you will most likely want to chamfer the edges, even a .5mm chamfer will be quite helpful.
I think it is a better practice to make these changes within the CAD environment because if you need to re-slice the model for some reason, you will need to remember / tweak these values again. Also, once you're familiar with your printer's capabilities, you'll have a second nature guessing the right amount of tolerance.
Thank you. Useful video. But I noticed the gap in the seams and thought, can you get tighter fitting seams? Maybe, could you use variable layer heights (much lower layer height right on the edge) and maybe ironing to get more perfect edges right where the 2 parts join? Just a thought, could be a silly idea, but I'm going to try it.
I use the caliper to make the square smaller by knowing how over sized it is then deducting that and plugging it in to x or y on scaling icon in cura or studio
X Y compensation or horizontal hole expansion would be better. Tuning it for your printer instead of designing the model to fit just your printer. That's why there are soooo many bad models that may or may not work out there. Tune it in your slicer for your printer.
In machining you have what is known as a clearance fit. If you make a hole the exact same size as the dowel pin, thry will not fit. They make dowelpin reamers to ease up on the hole a little. And if this is a blind hole, not a thru hole, it still wont fit unless you have a way for air to escape. You can get tight metal to fit by freezing the pin, or heating up the hole side.
Maybe change the wording on the spreadsheet to "add" and "subtract" tolerance with a (Tighter) or (looser), just for clarity. I can tell you now some people that use it are gonna get that mixed up. Also, is there a way to add a primitive as a modifier and scale only that section?
Hi Matthew! I think i know what you mean by "ppl which might gonne get that mixed up" (: Imagine to have the spreadsheet providing the wording "add tolerance (tighten)" and "substract tolerance (loosen)" ... that probably clarifies the calculation, math and values, for those people which have the "male" object (the piece which will be inserted) in mind - but could cause mixing up for the people which think of the other piece when it comes to change either ones size: the "female" object - in terms of adding or substracting, as long as there is no reference to the one or the other ... no? Thinking for longer about an unambiguous wording for the spreadsheet to have it defined perfectly clear, i feel like sliding towards the mixed up ppl ;) Thanks for the great video and helpful tipps @ItsMeaDMaDe 👍
I'd simply use horizontal expansion to reduce the size of the model by -0.1. that would also make the hole bigger by 0.1 then use horizontal hole expansion to make the hole smaller by 0.5 which should give you a .5 tolerance in the hole
If it's a downloaded part, and to keep the part dimensions as the creator intended, a bit of sandpapering the insert would suffice. This way you don't have to reprint it again and the part may HAVE to stay the same dimension if, for example, it needs to match up with another object in the overall scheme.
Thank you for the great explanation and all your videos. I printed out the models and everything from on the tighter test that is .25 and lower is basically fused together. I noticed in bambu studio (x1c) it does look fused on some of them. Is this then nozzle/slicer/printer dial in that need to be addressed or is that pretty darn good in terms of accuracy for a home 3d printer.
I did a box with 16x16 outer dimension and another box with 16x16mm inner dimension... it fit perfectly.. I mean perfect!. but I rotated it 90 degrees and it was a bit tight! This was with cura and using PLA+... I wondered if it was the contracting of the plastic when cooling..
Maybe that's a dumb question, but why not just take the model to your modeling program and change it there? It's quick and you don't have to deal with size differences.
You are 100% correct. If you have the capability to do it. That’s what I recommend. But, this is intended to help those that are printing a figure and the arm is just a little to tight or big. For when you don’t have the model and how to make it work.
Hello, really slow person that is bad at math here. If you reduced the entire model by the same amount ( the first time you did it) , how does that change anything? how did it change anything? Was it solving an over extrusion issue?
One thing about doing a "Uniform" scale is it will throw off your pocket depth, boss extrusion and everything. I find it better to mod in a CAD program then print as that way you only change what is required for the fit and not the complete model. Just my $0.02
The problem with this is that your shrinking not only the middle part but the whole piece. so the body is also going to be smaller and look misaligned going together. I thought there was a setting were you can adjust for the overture and print on inside of the average.
How dimensionally accurate is a delta printer in general. Would be a better representation if you used a bed slinger or core xy printer that the majority of people own.
Please guys it's not hard to just do the simple calculation to know the new scale. Certainly does not need a spreadsheet calculator. If you want an actually good calibration print get the calilantern. Because doing one small cube is not sufficient.
How does this process work for resin printers? I tried a clearance tolerance test with my Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and it just printed the test with the whole thing fused together
whats with Hole expansion? shrinking compensation? firstlayer compensation a.s.o thought that are the parameters for that after calibrating the flow. I recommend to calibrate every printer, than you always have less stress..........
I like your process, but you do not need to scale down an entire part, once you find your tolerance you can just factor it in the contact areas and that’s it.
Yeah I don’t see how it’s not obvious. If there is a size discrepancy, scaling down the part is not going to fix that, it just makes the discrepancy smaller with the part. Just add the tolerance .5mm or .10mm and that’s it.
I don't understand your second attempt (excluding tolerance, because that is necessary). Your second print just scaled everything smaller. I wouldn't expect making both pieces smaller to fit any better than the first try. You'd only want to scale down the 'male' part, and if anything, you would want to scale up the 'female' part, if fit was the goal. The dimensions on the female part would be even more off though. I am currently struggling with this. I actually built in tolerance to a model I made. It was fitting a metal bearing into a hole, and my first print the 34mm bearing didn't fit... by almost .5 mm. My whole piece was undersized. I think my printer is not calibrated. Is that a thing and where can I find how to calibrate the dimensions? There is so much information and lingo to wade through, and I get lost quite quickly. The rest of my print seems just fine, but the dimensions are always too small.
Tolerance is not what you think it is. CLEARANCE is what you are calling "tolerance". And a big channel like yours is right now redefining the word for a good portion of the 3D printing public and that will get spread wider and wider as time goes on. Don't do that. Use the correct words and terms and teach the correct terms and words.
Scaling both pieces reduces the size of both - which doesn’t solve the problem. You need to scale down just the peg, or the hole up. In other words, increase tolerance….
The uniform scaling of your parts in xyz makes the printed parts the right sizes per your design, but it DOES NOT make them fit together. You made it seem that your second (scaled) print somehow fits together better then the first print and that simply cannot be, the clearances will al still be at issue.
This will fail with more complex shapes. Imagine two pegs separated by a flat section. Global scaling means the two pegs won't line up with the two holes. Better to do tolerancing in the model, scaling is for matching the printout to modeled dimensions.
i don´t like most things from sharing platforms, they are often designed for their own home printers with a lot of huge tolerances or like you told us, completely without tolerances, so they are pretty loose, or don´t fit. if you calibrate your printer or think just a moment about reality you get what you have designed! i can´t understand why people design things for their particular printers and not to change/calibrate/upgrade the printer(profiles) to the real world dimensions as close as possible!? Can´t even get it. Other manufacuring processes also have tolerances, why do some people designs without any tolerance? really suspicious........maybe they are the staff of the filament industry...to sell more filament because people have to print multiple times 🤔
Probably just that they have a new toy and don't know what they are doing. Just because you figured out how to use Tinkercad/FreeCad etc doesn't make you a competent designer.
Being each part printed on an FDM printer is a one off unit, each with its own non repeatable tolerance. This method is just a waste of time. Just design the part with an acceptable gap. You can't control many of the external influences.
Great video! Thanks for talking about designer vs "printer" type folks. I am a terrible designer, and have been using round peg and holes for fitting, Slant 3D did a "diamond chamfered" thing which works really well for me (ua-cam.com/video/djm5tCFn9S0/v-deo.htmlsi=Rl4XCKW4Y8Q2xLko&t=20)
At the start of your video there is no reason even try to print that item you have no tolerance design in the cad drawing. There nothing and I mean nothing can at 0 tolerance that will work, exception is a metal item like that is round, the inserted item is placed in dry ice so it can be press fitted. I’ve never seen it done with a square item. You maybe able press fit with a 3d plastic print doing the dry ice, but as a press fit the only way to remove the part is to dry ice both parts than heat the outside. Just so everyone knows that there is no machine that will manufacture any thing perfectly over time it will wear and the part can be larger or smaller, that is why every blue print has a tolerance of +-1 or xxxx. Was a in middle of typing before I saw your tolerance part of the video. Hope that is clearer, see response to is this my second language below.
It’s but I’ve got a head injury from being in the military that affects my speech and writing. Sometimes my writing is better others it way worst. I’ll leave it at that.
While a lot of good info, most the beginning is a waste of time and probably confusing to people who don't understand what they are doing. If you having given you part tolerance, that is the problem. That's it. Lesson 1 in mechanical engineering.
Not a bad explaination of the process. Next up you should try using the horizontal and hole expansion settings. They let you compensate for the issues a little easier. The hole one comes in really handy because it lets you shrink or enlarge just the holes rather than the whole part.
It also helps to add a slight chamfer to the edges of the peg and/or the socket.
From now on, I will refer to myself as a 3D artist. You just made my day!
for simple part adjustment, use horizontal hole expansion in Cura. It will change the hole and not the rest of the print.
I actually started out 3D modeling before I ever printed anything, so when I was already pretty familiar with it when I finally got a printer. For a while I just made individual parts (or who's interaction didn't much matter), but when I finally needed something to hold together, I did some tests prints and figured out that 0.2mm offset is good for sliding, and 0.1mm for a fricton fit (at least with larger parts, on ones that are only a few millimeters it seems to need to be bumped up 0.1mm more), at least for my printer, not sure how it would work for others (and don't forget to fillet your vertical corners BlargNaut )
Prusa slicer x/y compensation -0.1 works for me. Both parts would be the same size as well.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Agreed, this whole "scale the entire model" would drive me crazy. Functional parts are designed for reason......
Just wanted to say, i am new to 3D printing and i have watched a lot of UA-cam trying to get my head around this addictive, hobby but your videos are by far the most helpful. keep it up please.
Very informative, you covered a few things I wouldn't have thought about. Especially only scaling down one part instead of both. Common sense, but that would not have occured to me until I ran the print. Good to have you back, looking forward to see the progress on the shop.
You've just dipped your toe into GD&T they teach in engineering school. I typically print models I've done, most of my modeling are machine upgrades, things for around the house or models for my customers. GD&T is super important when you're trying to get it to fit onto a machine. I would say the best thing to do would be print a 1"x1"x1" cube and measure, use a calibration cube for each material (assuming you can keep your humidity under control.
I understand what you're saying that the modelers are living in paradise since we can make all the adjustments. I always joke, I can make anything look good on the computer.
One does not simply scale the models to fit.
great vid as always u'r the best when it comes to overcome 3d printing issues so thank you dude
Thanks a lot I’m glad I’m able to help.
If you have an stl you could split the model in Tinkercad and then scale just the peg. And some slicers let you split an stl so you don’t even need Tinkercad.
Love your simplicity! Thanks for the great tip.
Love your very informative videos. One thing I do to help parts fit is I scale them in Blender on the two axes that need to be changed. I will do a few test prints to see what works. It's super easy to do, press TAB to go into edit mode after you select your object, then just select the part of the object you need to scale, press S for scale, then hold down shift and press either X and Y, or whatever 2 axes you need, X and Z, etc., then type "0.95" for 95% for example I've tried 0.95, 0.90, 0.85 and usually 0.95 works great. Of course this is once your printer is printing accurately.
hi, thanks for your videos.. very intersting ! i think there is a different between "tolerance" realted to tools precision and "gap" between pieces witch allow movement.
Yeah. He's saying tolerance but he means clearance.
For anyone who wants a simple solution for 2 parts not sliding in each other . Give a simple 0.2 clearance . It works for all sized parts .
For example -There is a shaft of dia 10 and it needs to be slide in a hole of 10, keep dia of hole 10.2 and there will be no issue
Same method for all shapes
I have been working with 3d printed parts for 5 years and this methods never fails
All the best
You can also in Prusa slicer you can just add a box modifier around the peg and put the setting in to do external perimeters first and a lot of times that will give you enough room to be able to slide those parts in easily you can also use the cut tool and isolate just the peg that way you can change just the percentage size on the peg of your X & Y axis that way the main portion of the print doesn't change in size only the peg
Comments like yours were more useful than this video.
That extra gap is called CLEARANCE not tolerance.
as opposed to interferance, which is a common phenomenon in functional drawings
to adjust the model something that works very well for simple shapes is csg tools like microsoft 3d builder, you basically add or remove shapes from your model, that allows you to remove a peg or ball joint, then add a slightly smaller one without having to ask the artist. another option is to use your volume to cut out the part you need to scale and only scale that part, then you can stitch the model back by adding a cube or cylinder
I was experimenting with X-Y hole and contour compensation and it seems to work for nuts and bolts and whatever, so I guess it can work for this as well.
Hi I have just bought a SUNLU s9 plus printer and I’m stumped. My test file printed after setup but now I can’t get anything out of it. The first layers just won’t stick and I get a bowl of spaghetti I know I have watched one of your vids that could help but I can’t find it now. Can you please help
Great video! Any tips for resin prints? Some resins do shrink when you cure them.
That’s interesting the resins I’ve used never so I’ve never experienced that. Is there a specific type of resin or brand? But you probably could use the calculator I made in the same way to fine what you need to scale it too to accommodate the shrinking.
I appreciate and like your videos. I think you meant to say you need some clearance when putting to pieces together and not tolerance.
Your absolutely correct and this is why I’m not an engineer. Thanks for the correction!!
My issue is print in place interlocked models like puzzles. The parts never have enough clearance unless the modeller makes it so. Going to try some of the suggestions here in Orca and Cura.
Whether this is the best method or not the still very useful.
Ahh yes, hiding it behind an email harvester. How scummy
Thank you this should help me I've been trying to upscale this file and do some modeling of this file for months now I've wasted so much $ in resin for this custom BJD model doll of Mara Sov for ever and just can't get nothing to scale or fit right
I love this tolerance thing from thingiverse :) I am about to make my own life counter dial for ttrpgs so I need a snug fit.
Hey , I want to correct you here . 6:08
Tolerance is the amount of error that can be tolerated during manufacturing.
Clearance is the gap or space you provide between two mating parts, such as a shaft and a hole.
Thank you!
I’d expect to use a tolerance of about the radius of the nozzle.
The filament thickness becomes roughly the diameter of the nozzle, so half of the filament thickness ends up inside the part, the other half outside of the part.
Given an exact print, this expansion of the filament will overlap, by exactly the radius of the nozzle. A .4mm nozzle needs .2mm tolerance to fit. So you’d need to move both walls apart by .1mm.
Make sure to not accidentally double the tolerance, especially when making screw holes
But a 3D print is never perfect and exact so your mileage may vary.
you're reaching for the bottom one on your scale so if you want a better fit you should print one that's tighter, even if that one is sufficient. (like maybe .3 or .4 would be perfect)
for angles, you will most likely want to chamfer the edges, even a .5mm chamfer will be quite helpful.
I think it is a better practice to make these changes within the CAD environment because if you need to re-slice the model for some reason, you will need to remember / tweak these values again. Also, once you're familiar with your printer's capabilities, you'll have a second nature guessing the right amount of tolerance.
Thank you. Useful video. But I noticed the gap in the seams and thought, can you get tighter fitting seams? Maybe, could you use variable layer heights (much lower layer height right on the edge) and maybe ironing to get more perfect edges right where the 2 parts join? Just a thought, could be a silly idea, but I'm going to try it.
I use the caliper to make the square smaller by knowing how over sized it is then deducting that and plugging it in to x or y on scaling icon in cura or studio
X Y compensation or horizontal hole expansion would be better. Tuning it for your printer instead of designing the model to fit just your printer. That's why there are soooo many bad models that may or may not work out there.
Tune it in your slicer for your printer.
I am an engineer, but you just called me an artist
In machining you have what is known as a clearance fit. If you make a hole the exact same size as the dowel pin, thry will not fit. They make dowelpin reamers to ease up on the hole a little. And if this is a blind hole, not a thru hole, it still wont fit unless you have a way for air to escape. You can get tight metal to fit by freezing the pin, or heating up the hole side.
I’m familiar with the horizontal stuff. Just wish I knew about it sooner than when I did.
Maybe change the wording on the spreadsheet to "add" and "subtract" tolerance with a (Tighter) or (looser), just for clarity. I can tell you now some people that use it are gonna get that mixed up.
Also, is there a way to add a primitive as a modifier and scale only that section?
Hi Matthew! I think i know what you mean by "ppl which might gonne get that mixed up" (:
Imagine to have the spreadsheet providing the wording "add tolerance (tighten)" and "substract tolerance (loosen)" ... that probably clarifies the calculation, math and values, for those people which have the "male" object (the piece which will be inserted) in mind - but could cause mixing up for the people which think of the other piece when it comes to change either ones size: the "female" object - in terms of adding or substracting, as long as there is no reference to the one or the other ... no?
Thinking for longer about an unambiguous wording for the spreadsheet to have it defined perfectly clear, i feel like sliding towards the mixed up ppl ;)
Thanks for the great video and helpful tipps @ItsMeaDMaDe 👍
I'd simply use horizontal expansion to reduce the size of the model by -0.1. that would also make the hole bigger by 0.1 then use horizontal hole expansion to make the hole smaller by 0.5 which should give you a .5 tolerance in the hole
"As you can see, it just doesn't fit together. I can force it in...but it just wasn't working out..." Story of my life...
😂😮😃🙂😐🤔😳🤨💀
Maybe some lube could help😂
😂
If it's a downloaded part, and to keep the part dimensions as the creator intended, a bit of sandpapering the insert would suffice. This way you don't have to reprint it again and the part may HAVE to stay the same dimension if, for example, it needs to match up with another object in the overall scheme.
when you decrease the peg does that not shrink the whole print?
I need to use this on orca is it possible ?
Thank you for the great explanation and all your videos. I printed out the models and everything from on the tighter test that is .25 and lower is basically fused together. I noticed in bambu studio (x1c) it does look fused on some of them. Is this then nozzle/slicer/printer dial in that need to be addressed or is that pretty darn good in terms of accuracy for a home 3d printer.
Awesome, where can I find this sheet?
It’s in the description of the video
4:30 - Why you scale both, but not separately? One must be 99%, the other one must be 101% scale (except the hight scaling).
I use negative parts to reduce the peg to the size I need... Or a modifier part and scale only a section of the 3D model
I did a box with 16x16 outer dimension and another box with 16x16mm inner dimension... it fit perfectly.. I mean perfect!. but I rotated it 90 degrees and it was a bit tight! This was with cura and using PLA+... I wondered if it was the contracting of the plastic when cooling..
Maybe that's a dumb question, but why not just take the model to your modeling program and change it there? It's quick and you don't have to deal with size differences.
You are 100% correct. If you have the capability to do it. That’s what I recommend. But, this is intended to help those that are printing a figure and the arm is just a little to tight or big. For when you don’t have the model and how to make it work.
Please can u make review for the V400
Very informative. But if you could do a tolerance video of collapsible sword using bambu studio that'd be awesome
Hello, really slow person that is bad at math here. If you reduced the entire model by the same amount ( the first time you did it) , how does that change anything? how did it change anything? Was it solving an over extrusion issue?
Great video! Thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Can you use a modifier in Bambu or Orca in order to change the peg size without going back to CAD?
You can change the size of the hole with hole compensation.
So, what about to change Slicing mode to Exclusive in Cura Experimental settings? It's good way to print nuts and bolts
One thing about doing a "Uniform" scale is it will throw off your pocket depth, boss extrusion and everything. I find it better to mod in a CAD program then print as that way you only change what is required for the fit and not the complete model. Just my $0.02
thank you for sharing 🎉😅
Maravilloso. Lo he realizado y ok. Ne resulta mejor realizando el diseño con ls tolerancia que a mi también me sale 0,5 mm
Gracias
The link for the file is not working, it shows that it sent it but, I checked all folders and I cant find it
The problem with this is that your shrinking not only the middle part but the whole piece. so the body is also going to be smaller and look misaligned going together. I thought there was a setting were you can adjust for the overture and print on inside of the average.
How dimensionally accurate is a delta printer in general. Would be a better representation if you used a bed slinger or core xy printer that the majority of people own.
I have seen no different between all three types of printers. All of mine are typically off between .1-.2mm.
it work on resin printer too?
Please guys it's not hard to just do the simple calculation to know the new scale. Certainly does not need a spreadsheet calculator. If you want an actually good calibration print get the calilantern. Because doing one small cube is not sufficient.
How does this process work for resin printers? I tried a clearance tolerance test with my Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra and it just printed the test with the whole thing fused together
CLEARANCE!!!
I printed the model and basically everything stuck together, any way to improve tolerances?
Crazy how lots of people need a program to solve for a delta L 😅
(Cad dimension / actual dimension) x 100% = %error scaling factor
whats with Hole expansion? shrinking compensation? firstlayer compensation a.s.o thought that are the parameters for that after calibrating the flow. I recommend to calibrate every printer, than you always have less stress..........
Would these numbers work the same for threaded 3d prints
calibrating linear advance will also stop blobbing on square corners.
I like your process, but you do not need to scale down an entire part, once you find your tolerance you can just factor it in the contact areas and that’s it.
Yeah I don’t see how it’s not obvious. If there is a size discrepancy, scaling down the part is not going to fix that, it just makes the discrepancy smaller with the part. Just add the tolerance .5mm or .10mm and that’s it.
What if you just split that one part,scale the insert and then assemble them after?
I invented a super cool tool, I’m calling it a file. I think it would come in handy in this first case.
I printed the tolerance checker and the whole thing printed as a single piece. I use cura 4.13 and a flsun v400 printer. I have no idea how to fix it.
I don't understand your second attempt (excluding tolerance, because that is necessary). Your second print just scaled everything smaller. I wouldn't expect making both pieces smaller to fit any better than the first try. You'd only want to scale down the 'male' part, and if anything, you would want to scale up the 'female' part, if fit was the goal. The dimensions on the female part would be even more off though.
I am currently struggling with this. I actually built in tolerance to a model I made. It was fitting a metal bearing into a hole, and my first print the 34mm bearing didn't fit... by almost .5 mm. My whole piece was undersized. I think my printer is not calibrated. Is that a thing and where can I find how to calibrate the dimensions? There is so much information and lingo to wade through, and I get lost quite quickly. The rest of my print seems just fine, but the dimensions are always too small.
A simple mod.... remove the corners of the peg. Doesn't need more that 0.2 chamfer, just enough to knock off the edges, sides and end
hey i got a ender 3 in my room and i print PLA is that bad ? i got my door open and a fan
no but don't have the fan unless it's a overhead fan facing the printer because it will cause inconsistent prints
Tolerance is not what you think it is. CLEARANCE is what you are calling "tolerance". And a big channel like yours is right now redefining the word for a good portion of the 3D printing public and that will get spread wider and wider as time goes on.
Don't do that. Use the correct words and terms and teach the correct terms and words.
When he’s saying increase by 0.0 and decrease by 0.5 he is setting a tolerance of +0.0/-0.5.
The tolerance is an acceptable range in dimensions so the parts fit as required, the clearance is what he’s adjusting so it works within the tolerance
thought this link would be to an excel file? its to some site to sign up for web site stuff?
Scaling both pieces reduces the size of both - which doesn’t solve the problem. You need to scale down just the peg, or the hole up. In other words, increase tolerance….
I am not sure whwat time zone for live chat tomorrow morning?
It says 1h 10 minutes from now 👍😊
outer wall first
The uniform scaling of your parts in xyz makes the printed parts the right sizes per your design, but it DOES NOT make them fit together. You made it seem that your second (scaled) print somehow fits together better then the first print and that simply cannot be, the clearances will al still be at issue.
This will fail with more complex shapes. Imagine two pegs separated by a flat section. Global scaling means the two pegs won't line up with the two holes. Better to do tolerancing in the model, scaling is for matching the printout to modeled dimensions.
Yea… pressure advance or xy shrinkage is better. But if you building the 3d model, the tolerances things works
How about just check your bed level, offset, flow rate, print outside walls first
i don´t like most things from sharing platforms, they are often designed for their own home printers with a lot of huge tolerances or like you told us, completely without tolerances, so they are pretty loose, or don´t fit. if you calibrate your printer or think just a moment about reality you get what you have designed! i can´t understand why people design things for their particular printers and not to change/calibrate/upgrade the printer(profiles) to the real world dimensions as close as possible!? Can´t even get it. Other manufacuring processes also have tolerances, why do some people designs without any tolerance? really suspicious........maybe they are the staff of the filament industry...to sell more filament because people have to print multiple times 🤔
Probably just that they have a new toy and don't know what they are doing. Just because you figured out how to use Tinkercad/FreeCad etc doesn't make you a competent designer.
Nah, if Im not the one modeling, I just sand.
goes in and out easy.thats what she said lol
25/25.1 = ====> 100/100 = 100%
Every manufacturing engineer and tool and die maker is cringing at his incorrect use of "tolerance".....it's called CLEARANCE
I am a Mead Made Mailer Minion
Ha ha that’s fantastic I like that one. That’s making on the list.
Being each part printed on an FDM printer is a one off unit, each with its own non repeatable tolerance. This method is just a waste of time. Just design the part with an acceptable gap. You can't control many of the external influences.
this is completely wrong. You are scaling the whole print.
Great video! Thanks for talking about designer vs "printer" type folks. I am a terrible designer, and have been using round peg and holes for fitting, Slant 3D did a "diamond chamfered" thing which works really well for me (ua-cam.com/video/djm5tCFn9S0/v-deo.htmlsi=Rl4XCKW4Y8Q2xLko&t=20)
For god sake, stop saying tolerance. There's no reference to tolerance in this video anywhere. Spewing misinformation is the world we live in now.
At the start of your video there is no reason even try to print that item you have no tolerance design in the cad drawing. There nothing and I mean nothing can at 0 tolerance that will work, exception is a metal item like that is round, the inserted item is placed in dry ice so it can be press fitted. I’ve never seen it done with a square item. You maybe able press fit with a 3d plastic print doing the dry ice, but as a press fit the only way to remove the part is to dry ice both parts than heat the outside. Just so everyone knows that there is no machine that will manufacture any thing perfectly over time it will wear and the part can be larger or smaller, that is why every blue print has a tolerance of +-1 or xxxx. Was a in middle of typing before I saw your tolerance part of the video. Hope that is clearer, see response to is this my second language below.
? I take it that English isn't your first language?
It’s but I’ve got a head injury from being in the military that affects my speech and writing. Sometimes my writing is better others it way worst. I’ll leave it at that.
I guess yours is not, why a ? mark at the beginning of the sentence, that is not in any English textbook. lol
Too damn long winded to get to a point. Holy crap. You MUST enjoy hearing yourself talk.
While a lot of good info, most the beginning is a waste of time and probably confusing to people who don't understand what they are doing. If you having given you part tolerance, that is the problem. That's it. Lesson 1 in mechanical engineering.