I did the same thing at the start of the pandemic when weights were sold out everywhere. I just bought a 55 gallon garbage can and cut the bottom off and used that as the mold. It was like $20 and worked great. It even has handles from the bottom of the can.... You can also just use silicon lubricant as a mold release, it's much easier to apply.
so true. I added chicken wire to all my plates. One day on bench press I forgot to put cuff links on and the 45 lb fell directly onto my 15 pound plate. Nothing happened lol
@@wide_Aaron anything that’s strong and flexible will be really good for the concrete. Think about it like this- concrete is very strong, but extremely brittle. You should cancel this out with adding something flexible. Generally, the more area it covers on this inside of the concrete the stronger it will become. So if mesh covers more area, I’d go for it. However if you’re going to be rough with your weights then I’d use something a bit thicker.
@@wide_Aaron Well heres the thing. If you're using really heavy weight and slamming it, yes. But in that case you should also use fiber glass to minimize chipping. The thing with rebar is, it only covers a small portion of area. If you can fit multiple rebar then you're solid, I doubt it'd ever break.
@@wide_Aaron yeah. The fiber glass will pretty much look like a bag of shredded cheese. Because it’s so tiny you can poor it in while you mix the concrete. It helps with micro fractures and chips. Another thing you can do to prevent chipping is to get those rubbery sprays
For next time just a thought. Weigh your concrete out to 43-44 lbs. Then if you want to get more creative get a couple cans of flex seal rubber and spray your plates. Then you will add and extra layer of protection and make them a little more durable. In all pretty cool idea 💡
Random thought from someone with far less knowledge and experience with concrete: maybe you could sand the plates down little by little to dial the weight in to be exact? Although with how close they already are that's probably completely unnecessary and total overkill, but just an idea from someone who is a perfectionist and is the master of overkill, lol.
@@ZahNiNah Except it would take literally 2 seconds if you used the saw to cut one rectangular piece of plastic and 2 circles to encase the concrete. Plus you could bind the plastic using a simple hand torch, soldering iron or high powered heating element. For the imprint you can buy those numbers in metal, weld a handle onto them then encase the handle in something that absorbs heat so you aren't burned when the numbers are heated up. Then after that it's just a simple process of branding the outside of the plastic weight. That entire process though is still simpler than what he accomplished. I recommend that if you want to make weights that are more resistant to being dropped as well as damage. It does add complexity to what he already showed how to do though which is amazing.
Weigh dry powder and water separately. Adjust for the correct ratio. Wet concrete weighs the same as dry (cured) concrete. The water doesn't evaporate it reacts with the slurry chemically to harden. Edit: you lose some weight.
@@jakknight2158 you could even just double or triple dip them in epoxy after the concrete had cured. Should take a lot of the stress of dropping it off the concrete itself.
If you have a 3D printer, you could print the letters and numbers. Make the edges of the letters/numbers sloped, so they will easily come out during demolding. This also gives you more options: Fonts, diacritics, sizes, logos, borders, the list goes on.
Bro you`re a genius, i wanted to make this plates long time ago, but I didn`t know how to do it without forms. And there`s your video where you show how to make easy form and take the bubbles out with jigsaw, this is so resourceful. Thank you so much!
Nicely done! Thank you! Coroplast could be used for the circular mold wall. It's strong, waterproof, and often available for free (it's what political signs are often made from). Tap plastics also carries new sheets. You might consider adding plasticizer to the concrete mix. This will make the concrete flow better without reducing the strength. PVA / nylon fibers will also increase strength. Alkali resistant fiberglass scrim mesh can also be added to increase strength. You can get it at stucco supply places. You may want to tint the concrete for the different weight sizes. Concrete pigments are available at hardware companies.
Great work, about as accurate as you can get with each of the weights too! I get great results using a reciprocating saw and remove the blade to remove air bubbles from concrete and then cover it with plastic for 24 to 48 hours. You can also can use dye if you want to make your weights black for example. 👍🏼
lbs plates that are not calibrated can have such a insane difference per plate. Its amazing that you were able to with in a such an incremental tolerance. I would argue that your weights are more accurate then most 45 cast iron lbs plates! love to see the work that you do my bro!
Great project. I really would like to know if the fiberglass fibers would make them more durable? I guess I would be worried about the plates cracking if you put them down to hard. I know it would change the weight but any thoughts about painting/coating them with anything. Thank so much for sharing!
There's two types of concrete. Concrete that has cracked and concrete that will crack. The fibers help a bit. But still concrete will eventually crack. It just comes with usage of concrete. No one can tell you exactly how long or when because the mix determines its properties.
Plastidip or similar MIGHT help with chipping, giving a layer to at least contain the cement. But eventually they aren't going to look like they do now
Get the Quikrete green bags, that concrete mix have fiber and other ingredients to make the concrete more resistant to crack. I used that on my backyard floor which was ver chipped and cracked and worked nice, no problems in more than 4 years. Using a concrete sealer, then painting it and adding some rubber laminate in the circumference will help them last longer.
Pro tip here. Shopped around a lot when buying weights for my garage. If any of your projects fail the best place to purchase is academy. Good video though, especially to be able to customize the lettering.
Definitely, I did that when I made some concrete kettlebells. However the problem is that when the mix starts to dry the weight varies a lot but still they will be very close.
Would adding mesh, rebar or something like that help the concrete not to crumble? The numbers and letters can also be spray painted after. As a teen I made some weights using concrete poured into paint cans and keep it like that.
Some wire mesh in the concrete, like with floors, would be a good idea the if for some reason the concrete gives out it won't bust apart retaining some weight that way a bust-event while squatting doesn't lurch to one side so aggressively.
All im saying, ive done concrete for a while, i think u can get away by forming alot less but, u can never have too many kickers is what we say, meaning the more bracing the better so have at it sir!! Entertaining to watch
that black rubber flex seal stuff my protect or could big mistake your choice. good job think make 35 next then 25 and 4 5 pounders and 4 10 pounders. what get 300 pound club
For cost breakdown, its a lot less : the minimum you'll find for a weight set is a $1.5 - $1.7 per pound. if we cancel out the cost of the olympic bar, and go with a set of 2x45's 2x25's , 2x15's, it would cost 300$ bare minimum for extremely discounted weights. if you used this method ,its about 180 pounds of concrete. At around 5$ per 66 pound bag, you're looking at $20-25 of concrete accounting for error. Add to that the cost of tools and materials ( saw ~ $30, material ~40, not considering you might already have the tools or part of the materials ) and you get to around 100$ max for a weight set. You could probably add GFRC and a rubber lining to protect the weights and boom. 150$ weight set that's just as good as the pro's.
Had good results using a single disk of melamine as a base for a mold and a small roll of roof coil for the side walls. I applied caulk to the edge of the disk before wrapping the roof coil around a couple times. I secured the coil with hose clamp. After the concrete set up I could undo the hose clamp and just unwind the roof coil. Only issue I ran into was the white coating of the melamine bubbling and coming off onto the concrete with repeated use of the mold
Love the idea, wondering how you keep them from falling apart. In the concrete industry, there is a well understood axiom: "There are two typed of concrete. Concrete that is cracked, and concrete that has not cracked yet."
Could you make the side walls or outside of the mold with simple cardboard taped to the bottom wood piece instead? Also would someone be able to use cardboard for the numbers instead of wood? I feel like there is a shortcut, or cheaper way to going through this whole process of making a plate mold.
Nice!, I used old “spare tires & hubs from a junk car and poured concrete in back side 65lb each total wt, no fancy lettering though😔, bout nice bounce if dropped 😁
The pvc is negligible, it will be the moisture that stays in the concrete when it cures. You'd want to use slightly less than 45 lbs of concrete premix
Ok so please, i repeat please coat your concrete weight plates with something rubbery or urethane coating, or paint. I was benching once as a kid and had concrete plates like this in my friend's garage gym. The fans were on and for some god foresaken reason a piece of concrete or sand, flaked off and fell in my eyes, needless to say the rest was tragic.
Don't buy ready mixed concrete, it's rubbish! They always skimp on the cement. Any concrete structure you see is grey (concrete grey) that's because it has a high percentage of cement, I would use 1-5 mix for these, you'll get a nicer finsh on them and they'll be a lot less likely to chip!
Just giving my two cents here: one, as it doesn't actually "dry" but "sets", I guess some of that water is absorbed by the material, therefore it will weight more than the weight of the cement itself. I might be wrong but... On the other hand, that build might crack and break when in use, so it could leave you unbalanced and, well, you might get hurt. From what I see around, some people protect the cement with some kind of rubber or anything making it look like a wheel with a concrete rim. Just saying. Nice finish though.
Correct, fresh concrete is lighter than hardened concrete, about 20% give or take. A part of the water chemically bonds to the cement particles in a process called hydration. The rest of the water evaporates. Both processes (can) cause shrinkage of concrete.
By the time you get through buying the over priced wood needed to make the mold and assuming you have all the tools he used, you would've spent twice the amount of just going to Walmart and buying the actually steel/iron weight. If you wanted to make more out of concrete later, you can just get some and make an indention into the sand with the weight to where the sand comes to the same level as the weight. Remove the weight and just fill that sand mold with concrete.. the only tool you'll need is a small shovel or something to mix up the concrete. You're welcome
Its a lot less. the minimum you'll find for a weight set is a $1.7 per pound. if we cancel out the cost of the olympic bar, and go with a set of 2x45's 2x25's , 2x15's, and 2x5's ( this is really the bare minimum ) it would cost 300$ bare minimum for extremely discounted weights. if you used this method ,its about 180 pounds of concrete. At around 5$ per 66 pound bag, you're looking at $20-25 of concrete accounting for error. Add to that the cost of tools and materials ( saw ~ $30, material ~40, not considering you might already have the tools or part of the materials ) and you get to around 100$ max for a weight set. You could probably add GFRC and a rubber lining to protect the weights and boom. 150$ weight set that's just as good as the pro's.
@@saulgonzalez8101 not really, I've seen lots of quality sets for some hundreds. I remember looking into it all when covid started. Wasn't too bad, but now with higher costs for wood and whatnot, curious how it is. Too lazy to re research it all rn
@@SnowsLife hmm interesting, thanks for that. But also gotta count in for good sturdy wood to build a squat rack or bench rack. But I guess yeah could be cheaper. I seen good towers for both ranging from 300-600.
The final product looks great, but You could simply use a large empty paint bucket as the mold for the concrete, you know, like the orange bucket you show on this video. Don't make your DIY projects more complicated and expensive than they need to.
$10 worth of concrete, $100 worth of tools & material. Dont know where you got your numbers but you're wrong. After the 45's its 66 pounds of concrete for $5.
I did the same thing at the start of the pandemic when weights were sold out everywhere. I just bought a 55 gallon garbage can and cut the bottom off and used that as the mold. It was like $20 and worked great. It even has handles from the bottom of the can.... You can also just use silicon lubricant as a mold release, it's much easier to apply.
He did exactly that in a previous rendition
How much do they weight?
@@princeofprussia9120 Yeah but he used a 20 gallon (45 lb plates) bucket instead.
Add metal mesh, bent rebar or stripes of fibers in the concrete mix. It will reinforce the structure ten fold from shaking and dropping fractures.
so true. I added chicken wire to all my plates. One day on bench press I forgot to put cuff links on and the 45 lb fell directly onto my 15 pound plate. Nothing happened lol
@@wide_Aaron anything that’s strong and flexible will be really good for the concrete. Think about it like this- concrete is very strong, but extremely brittle. You should cancel this out with adding something flexible. Generally, the more area it covers on this inside of the concrete the stronger it will become. So if mesh covers more area, I’d go for it. However if you’re going to be rough with your weights then I’d use something a bit thicker.
@@wide_Aaron Well heres the thing. If you're using really heavy weight and slamming it, yes. But in that case you should also use fiber glass to minimize chipping. The thing with rebar is, it only covers a small portion of area. If you can fit multiple rebar then you're solid, I doubt it'd ever break.
@@wide_Aaron yeah. The fiber glass will pretty much look like a bag of shredded cheese. Because it’s so tiny you can poor it in while you mix the concrete. It helps with micro fractures and chips. Another thing you can do to prevent chipping is to get those rubbery sprays
@@wide_Aaron and yeah, happy to help with the advice.
Super Pro Tip; use olive oil or nonstick spray on the back of the wood letters. They will come out easily once the cement cures
Better is to cover them in packing tape, oil can mess up the concrete, the tape releases great.
For next time just a thought. Weigh your concrete out to 43-44 lbs. Then if you want to get more creative get a couple cans of flex seal rubber and spray your plates. Then you will add and extra layer of protection and make them a little more durable.
In all pretty cool idea 💡
I would most likely have made weight plates that said "54 SDLIUB NREDOM 54". Nice project, Mike, good to see you on YT again!
right💀
he very likely did as well in his first try;p
Random thought from someone with far less knowledge and experience with concrete: maybe you could sand the plates down little by little to dial the weight in to be exact? Although with how close they already are that's probably completely unnecessary and total overkill, but just an idea from someone who is a perfectionist and is the master of overkill, lol.
they will never be perfectly balanced it concrete, constant use, wear tear much quicker
@@ZahNiNah Except it would take literally 2 seconds if you used the saw to cut one rectangular piece of plastic and 2 circles to encase the concrete. Plus you could bind the plastic using a simple hand torch, soldering iron or high powered heating element.
For the imprint you can buy those numbers in metal, weld a handle onto them then encase the handle in something that absorbs heat so you aren't burned when the numbers are heated up. Then after that it's just a simple process of branding the outside of the plastic weight.
That entire process though is still simpler than what he accomplished. I recommend that if you want to make weights that are more resistant to being dropped as well as damage. It does add complexity to what he already showed how to do though which is amazing.
Weigh dry powder and water separately. Adjust for the correct ratio. Wet concrete weighs the same as dry (cured) concrete. The water doesn't evaporate it reacts with the slurry chemically to harden.
Edit: you lose some weight.
@@jakknight2158 you could even just double or triple dip them in epoxy after the concrete had cured. Should take a lot of the stress of dropping it off the concrete itself.
Honestly the best thing would have been to add fibreglass, it's not at all complicated. Just need the ability to measure and mix lol.
If you have a 3D printer, you could print the letters and numbers. Make the edges of the letters/numbers sloped, so they will easily come out during demolding. This also gives you more options: Fonts, diacritics, sizes, logos, borders, the list goes on.
Or you can carve them by hand
You can put pigment dye in the cement for it to get black
Man with these plywood prices I might as well buy some 😅
Bro you`re a genius, i wanted to make this plates long time ago, but I didn`t know how to do it without forms. And there`s your video where you show how to make easy form and take the bubbles out with jigsaw, this is so resourceful.
Thank you so much!
concrete plates and wood rack is such a vibe. nice work!
Nicely done! Thank you!
Coroplast could be used for the circular mold wall. It's strong, waterproof, and often available for free (it's what political signs are often made from). Tap plastics also carries new sheets.
You might consider adding plasticizer to the concrete mix. This will make the concrete flow better without reducing the strength. PVA / nylon fibers will also increase strength.
Alkali resistant fiberglass scrim mesh can also be added to increase strength. You can get it at stucco supply places.
You may want to tint the concrete for the different weight sizes. Concrete pigments are available at hardware companies.
$200 for 2 -45 pound weights ! All the sudden building some sounds pretty good!
Great work, about as accurate as you can get with each of the weights too! I get great results using a reciprocating saw and remove the blade to remove air bubbles from concrete and then cover it with plastic for 24 to 48 hours. You can also can use dye if you want to make your weights black for example. 👍🏼
would plasti dip or some rubberized coating stop it from chipping if dropping or hit on a hard surface?
lbs plates that are not calibrated can have such a insane difference per plate. Its amazing that you were able to with in a such an incremental tolerance. I would argue that your weights are more accurate then most 45 cast iron lbs plates! love to see the work that you do my bro!
Lol no argument. You can give a compliment but don't go overboard
@@jd2161 unless you get calibrated plates, cast irons can be even 5 lbs off, he's not exaggerating whatsoever.
should use metric
@@altairtodescatto I agree, hello from the Netherlands, but the man used imperial so I played along
Great project. I really would like to know if the fiberglass fibers would make them more durable? I guess I would be worried about the plates cracking if you put them down to hard. I know it would change the weight but any thoughts about painting/coating them with anything. Thank so much for sharing!
There's two types of concrete.
Concrete that has cracked and concrete that will crack.
The fibers help a bit. But still concrete will eventually crack. It just comes with usage of concrete. No one can tell you exactly how long or when because the mix determines its properties.
Plastidip or similar MIGHT help with chipping, giving a layer to at least contain the cement.
But eventually they aren't going to look like they do now
Get the Quikrete green bags, that concrete mix have fiber and other ingredients to make the concrete more resistant to crack. I used that on my backyard floor which was ver chipped and cracked and worked nice, no problems in more than 4 years. Using a concrete sealer, then painting it and adding some rubber laminate in the circumference will help them last longer.
The OG way🤞🏾😎
Would there be a way to put a coating or something like rubber on top? Any brainstorming?
Pro tip here. Shopped around a lot when buying weights for my garage. If any of your projects fail the best place to purchase is academy. Good video though, especially to be able to customize the lettering.
Hey Mike welcome back! I'm glad you're ok, man Happy Easter
You can also do this with paint cans and 5gallon buckets
Great video and idea. I’d take an angle grinder to the inside of the pieces to adjust the weight down to the two 45s you need.
Would you be closer to 45 on both, if you mix both batches at the same time and weighing when filling the forms, so both forms are equal?
Definitely, I did that when I made some concrete kettlebells. However the problem is that when the mix starts to dry the weight varies a lot but still they will be very close.
You can round the corners on each till they are exactly 45. Nice vid!
Would adding mesh, rebar or something like that help the concrete not to crumble?
The numbers and letters can also be spray painted after. As a teen I made some weights using concrete poured into paint cans and keep it like that.
Yes, many people made tutorials when 2020 got everyone looking for cheap fitness hacks and they used criss-crossed steel rods or chicken wire.
Some wire mesh in the concrete, like with floors, would be a good idea the if for some reason the concrete gives out it won't bust apart retaining some weight that way a bust-event while squatting doesn't lurch to one side so aggressively.
Could take an angle grinder to the back of the plates if you want to bring the weight down to exactly 45 lbs.
All im saying, ive done concrete for a while, i think u can get away by forming alot less but, u can never have too many kickers is what we say, meaning the more bracing the better so have at it sir!! Entertaining to watch
What type of cement or mortar would be best you think?
why are you yelling
Can't he? In his own video 😅
@@The_Wiseman_2k6No
Did Mike paint his hart tools?
Another great video Mike! When can we expect to see more house renovation videos? Can’t wait to see you transform the kitchen and living room!
You've could used steel mesh to up resistence
You can just spray diesel to help telease the concrete and avoid it from sticking bad to the wood
that black rubber flex seal stuff my protect or could big mistake your choice. good job think make 35 next then 25 and 4 5 pounders and 4 10 pounders. what get 300 pound club
What happened to your podcast?
The modern maker podcast
Haven't seen a new episode in a few months
For cost breakdown, its a lot less : the minimum you'll find for a weight set is a $1.5 - $1.7 per pound. if we cancel out the cost of the olympic bar, and go with a set of 2x45's 2x25's , 2x15's, it would cost 300$ bare minimum for extremely discounted weights. if you used this method ,its about 180 pounds of concrete. At around 5$ per 66 pound bag, you're looking at $20-25 of concrete accounting for error. Add to that the cost of tools and materials ( saw ~ $30, material ~40, not considering you might already have the tools or part of the materials ) and you get to around 100$ max for a weight set. You could probably add GFRC and a rubber lining to protect the weights and boom. 150$ weight set that's just as good as the pro's.
Amazon has 45lb. Plates for $50 right now. These are not worth the time or money. Cool for a video, not practical though
Not everyone values their time at $0 though or wants to wait 6 weeks for drying
@@SnowsLife correct. And my statement still applies.
@@SnowsLife I said wait, not watch. Your comprehension is great and you proved my point about not valuing your time. Take care
@@buildr3303 stop talking to yourself. Don't bring me into this.
You could spray them with plastidip to protect them from chipping
Very cool DIY gym builds...
Water does not simply evaporates, a significant part of it chemically binds with the cement and thus increasing the weight.
Had good results using a single disk of melamine as a base for a mold and a small roll of roof coil for the side walls. I applied caulk to the edge of the disk before wrapping the roof coil around a couple times. I secured the coil with hose clamp.
After the concrete set up I could undo the hose clamp and just unwind the roof coil. Only issue I ran into was the white coating of the melamine bubbling and coming off onto the concrete with repeated use of the mold
Love the idea, wondering how you keep them from falling apart. In the concrete industry, there is a well understood axiom:
"There are two typed of concrete. Concrete that is cracked, and concrete that has not cracked yet."
Could you make the side walls or outside of the mold with simple cardboard taped to the bottom wood piece instead? Also would someone be able to use cardboard for the numbers instead of wood? I feel like there is a shortcut, or cheaper way to going through this whole process of making a plate mold.
It would be cool to spray them with some truck bed liner spray.
would these crack if you they hit the ground?
The secret is not drop them.
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing
Wait so I'm confused you weighed 45 pounds of concrete then added water does that not make it heavier ?
Yes, which is why they are heavier
not by much. Water is just there as a catalyst for the concrete to set. Then most of it evaporates.
@@SnowsLife this is party true. it doesnt evaporate.
This tutorial is really well done. Thanks!
Nice!, I used old “spare tires & hubs from a junk car and poured concrete in back side 65lb each total wt, no fancy lettering though😔, bout nice bounce if dropped 😁
How to make sure this molding for 45pound weight concrete?
Very nice diy video i have learned a lot in this video
Concrete does not "dry". As it cures, the hydrogen and oxygen in the water incorporates into the chemistry of the cement and aggregate.
The extra pound is likely the pvc as you didn’t account for that when mixing your concrete
The pvc is negligible, it will be the moisture that stays in the concrete when it cures. You'd want to use slightly less than 45 lbs of concrete premix
It takes up 30 days for concrete to dry completely so weight will be a bit less anyway.
Thanks for bringing a video back, I have missed seeing your creations!
what is the thickness of plate ?
Ok so please, i repeat please coat your concrete weight plates with something rubbery or urethane coating, or paint. I was benching once as a kid and had concrete plates like this in my friend's garage gym. The fans were on and for some god foresaken reason a piece of concrete or sand, flaked off and fell in my eyes, needless to say the rest was tragic.
When i used to lift weights i also made concrete weights, but each set i would rotate bar because i was scared it would cause muscle imbalances 😅😅
Orale, Mike’s back in the house!
🤛🏽🇺🇸
Don't buy ready mixed concrete, it's rubbish! They always skimp on the cement. Any concrete structure you see is grey (concrete grey) that's because it has a high percentage of cement, I would use 1-5 mix for these, you'll get a nicer finsh on them and they'll be a lot less likely to chip!
Awesome job
Just giving my two cents here: one, as it doesn't actually "dry" but "sets", I guess some of that water is absorbed by the material, therefore it will weight more than the weight of the cement itself. I might be wrong but...
On the other hand, that build might crack and break when in use, so it could leave you unbalanced and, well, you might get hurt. From what I see around, some people protect the cement with some kind of rubber or anything making it look like a wheel with a concrete rim. Just saying.
Nice finish though.
bike inner tube rim
Mr fucking I’m gonna critique the irrelevant statements you make. Thanks bro, I’m gonna make sure I never say dry
Correct, fresh concrete is lighter than hardened concrete, about 20% give or take. A part of the water chemically bonds to the cement particles in a process called hydration. The rest of the water evaporates. Both processes (can) cause shrinkage of concrete.
Thanks so much
What happens the first time you drop the weights? It's gonna crack!
I'm guessing you can't deadlift with them
Diesel fuel works great as a nonstick release for concrete molds
It be so much cheaper just to buy the mold but this is a cool novelty project
That is a true DIY
Welldone project
By the time you get through buying the over priced wood needed to make the mold and assuming you have all the tools he used, you would've spent twice the amount of just going to Walmart and buying the actually steel/iron weight.
If you wanted to make more out of concrete later, you can just get some and make an indention into the sand with the weight to where the sand comes to the same level as the weight. Remove the weight and just fill that sand mold with concrete.. the only tool you'll need is a small shovel or something to mix up the concrete.
You're welcome
wait. how is it 45 lbs if your measure dry 45 then added water. does the water volume evaporate?
some of it
@@fla576 thank you 🙏🏻
expanding foam would have been easier to seal the mould, nice build tho
Then drops the weight, Oh shit here we go again
I'm curious what the price difference is between buying all the materials for all this equipment VS just buying the actual equipment
Equipment is thousands of dollars
Its a lot less. the minimum you'll find for a weight set is a $1.7 per pound. if we cancel out the cost of the olympic bar, and go with a set of 2x45's 2x25's , 2x15's, and 2x5's ( this is really the bare minimum ) it would cost 300$ bare minimum for extremely discounted weights. if you used this method ,its about 180 pounds of concrete. At around 5$ per 66 pound bag, you're looking at $20-25 of concrete accounting for error. Add to that the cost of tools and materials ( saw ~ $30, material ~40, not considering you might already have the tools or part of the materials ) and you get to around 100$ max for a weight set. You could probably add GFRC and a rubber lining to protect the weights and boom. 150$ weight set that's just as good as the pro's.
@@saulgonzalez8101 not really, I've seen lots of quality sets for some hundreds. I remember looking into it all when covid started. Wasn't too bad, but now with higher costs for wood and whatnot, curious how it is. Too lazy to re research it all rn
@@SnowsLife hmm interesting, thanks for that. But also gotta count in for good sturdy wood to build a squat rack or bench rack. But I guess yeah could be cheaper. I seen good towers for both ranging from 300-600.
Love these videos! Keep making them!
Agreed 💯 👍🏼
You should make some kettlebells next
Awesome project as always Mike... 👌🛠️
100% would buy for myself and a mini one for my cat
that s great🥳🥳🥳
That's so much work though
I'm way too lazy for this. I rather them just ass blast me with exorbitant prices, dawg. lmfao
i like your crafts.. i mean dewalt cordless drill :D
oil the moulds.
top job
So... Why not dig out ground and pour.
2 pieces of 1-1/8” plywood screwed together be easier
i hope there have more video soon not waiting another month :(
The final product looks great, but You could simply use a large empty paint bucket as the mold for the concrete, you know, like the orange bucket you show on this video. Don't make your DIY projects more complicated and expensive than they need to.
he actually does have another video where he uses a plastic trash bin for his mold
@@rfcilia good to know!
if you want to make that too stick metalsticks into the wet concrete so it is more stable
not sure if you saved any money, but fun project.
Why are you yelling at me?
Tools and Materials for 2 45 lb plates
$401
Amazon 2 45 lb plates
$145.98
The cost only becomes worth it if you build 6 45 lb plates
$10 worth of concrete, $100 worth of tools & material. Dont know where you got your numbers but you're wrong. After the 45's its 66 pounds of concrete for $5.
All u need is a bucket 2 bags of 50lb concrete and pvc pipe that’s how I made mine. Under $20
this would've nice in the peak of the pandemic.
nice project, but it would cost me less buying the weights, if you don´t have the necessary equipment to make them :D
Very nice dud
This is great!
, cool man
Have not seen you for a while Mike, hope you are doing well.
So this is how rich western did it
Has tutorial de mancuernas redondas de 5lbs hasta 50lbs por favor 😁
Fortalecendo aqui..Otimas dicas. Muito Bom seu trabalho.. Video muito bacana. Likezao..Retorne ai. Valew
I dont think they are actually 45 pounds