CAUTION: For a high mileage car, this should be considered a temporary fix. On the back side of the large gear is a round circuit board with 3 tracks of resistive paint. When you clean it, all the black greasy gunk that comes out is dielectric grease and resistive paint that has worn off. My Sienna had about 250k miles and the resistive paint was completely worn through to the PC board material. Your fix may only last a few month, maybe more, maybe less. For a $25 aftermarket part, I would definitely replace it. (Toyota PN: Sienna 2nd gen, passenger side: PP-GF20+M20)
Cost me maybe an hour of aggravation yet saved me hundreds in a trip to the parts store, auto shop, or at worst the dealership. As soon as I plugged the actuator back in, the gears turned and I was back in a car with working heat. Thank you so much for posting! Life saver and a wife-saver!
Gently apply some heat using a heat gun / blow dryer to soften the plastic clips and make them more flexible. Use several tooth picks to open the tabs slightly and avoid breaking them off. After wiping the oxidation and grease off the the contacts go back over it with the towel soaked with a little contact cleaner. Great video.
Your video helped me a lot. You pretty much proved that the armature does not come apart so that saved time of not trying it😂 I cleaned it with a Q tip and sprayed some silicone lube around the shaft. Working great for now!
Thanks for the video, it helped me getting resolving the problem on my vehicle: I had the same symptoms (noise) on the passenger-side on my 2004 Land Cruiser Prado (aka Lexus GX470). It uses a similar Denso actuator. While the sliding contacts were worn too, I found that the root cause of noise was the worm gear: It has significant axial lash, and disengages under load from the motor. Remedy: Glue a 1mm piece of plastic into the housing, limiting the axial movement of the worm gear, hereby always maintaining it connected to the motor.
Wow man...my same part was just shaking in one spot blowing hot air when the temp is set to 65 deg... and while adjusting the temp. I took the part out and opened it up clean it adjust the copper contacts inside and greased it. Closed it back up and put it back in place and Walla everything working just fine.
My 2002 4 runner the heater cable itself, to the firewall heater valve was corroded/stuck and caused the armature to snap off. Check your cable to see if it moves freely. Replaced cable and fixed the Actuator.
It would be EXTREMELY useful if you would identify what make, model and year of what you are working on and have started out by zooming out to show where this area is located, systems positioned and what you had to do to get to it.
Sup my man! Yeah those actuator knock sounds are also very common especially on GMs. Man and as much for this great alternative to fix it taking apart...it's not worth it. I'd rather replace it new and not worry it to fail again...as you saw the plastic breaking on you.The only thing I repair internal electronics is when swapping ECUs soldering the ROM chip so I don't have to do key reprogramming on some cars that are difficult and expensive to program.
I have to do this on my 2008 Sienna tomorrow God willing. Are there 2 blend doors or just on the drivers side.? By the way thank you for this awesome video!!
This video is miles better than the others! The problem with my 2009 Sienna CE is that is was blowing hot on the driver side. I opened up the panel, and lo and behold, the blend actuator wasn't there! I couldn't find a connector or arm from the airbox either. Is this because mine doesn't have dual climate control?
@@partsshooter Hot air comes out on the driver side when the AC is running. It's cold on the passenger side. The mode doors move just fine, and the blend door on the passenger side moves. The part you take out in this video is just missing on mine. I also can't find wiring or an arm from the airbox where I could attach a new one.
Hey. Question. I just got my AC recharged. Works great. Only thing is when I turn on the heat, I get heat on the drivers side. But cold air on the other. Would this fix that issue? Thank you
I have a 2010 Camry and the A/C starts off working great and then after driving for maybe 20 minutes it will start blowing hot for maybe 10 minutes and then back to cold. What’s causing this? Would it be this blend door that’s my problem. I already took the car to an A/C place and they said everything is fine and they couldn’t get it to go hot. Keep in mind the car just idled at the shop. Please help
I have a 2007 it has the Dual location climate ,but I would notice my motor seems to be located higher on top of that white piece above where you took yours out is this normal? It seems like it would be removed as one piece, with the white bracket's 2 screws, do you have experience with this?
@Jim the one he is working on is the heat vs a/c or a blend between the two. The mode actuator is the one above it on the metal bracket. Just climb down there and u can touch it to feel it shake when it makes those weird sounds.
@@montanalop4533Any resolution here, bro? I have a same gen sienna with similar issues. Was poor airflow to defrost for some time and now it's not sending a/c to the driver side and rear.
CAUTION: For a high mileage car, this should be considered a temporary fix. On the back side of the large gear is a round circuit board with 3 tracks of resistive paint. When you clean it, all the black greasy gunk that comes out is dielectric grease and resistive paint that has worn off. My Sienna had about 250k miles and the resistive paint was completely worn through to the PC board material. Your fix may only last a few month, maybe more, maybe less. For a $25 aftermarket part, I would definitely replace it. (Toyota PN: Sienna 2nd gen, passenger side: PP-GF20+M20)
Cost me maybe an hour of aggravation yet saved me hundreds in a trip to the parts store, auto shop, or at worst the dealership. As soon as I plugged the actuator back in, the gears turned and I was back in a car with working heat. Thank you so much for posting! Life saver and a wife-saver!
Thanks for posting this! I followed what you did and got my heat working again on the driver side. I really appreciate you taking the time to post it!
Gently apply some heat using a heat gun / blow dryer to soften the plastic clips and make them more flexible. Use several tooth picks to open the tabs slightly and avoid breaking them off. After wiping the oxidation and grease off the the contacts go back over it with the towel soaked with a little contact cleaner. Great video.
Really, really well done. Camera was stationary!! Good explanations throughout! Toothpick idea appreciated. Thank you very much! Talent!
Just fixed this for free in less than an hour. I just wanted to say thank you man. Now my wife won't be freezing as she drives the kids around haha
Your video helped me a lot. You pretty much proved that the armature does not come apart so that saved time of not trying it😂 I cleaned it with a Q tip and sprayed some silicone lube around the shaft. Working great for now!
Thanks for the video, it helped me getting resolving the problem on my vehicle: I had the same symptoms (noise) on the passenger-side on my 2004 Land Cruiser Prado (aka Lexus GX470). It uses a similar Denso actuator. While the sliding contacts were worn too, I found that the root cause of noise was the worm gear: It has significant axial lash, and disengages under load from the motor. Remedy: Glue a 1mm piece of plastic into the housing, limiting the axial movement of the worm gear, hereby always maintaining it connected to the motor.
thanks for posting this video! you saved me a bunch of time, and i was able to solve this problem easily with your help!
Thanks a lot. You just saved my money. I just clean the part and it’s working. Thanks
Dude, you rock! Well done video. Thanks for posting.
Wow man...my same part was just shaking in one spot blowing hot air when the temp is set to 65 deg... and while adjusting the temp. I took the part out and opened it up clean it adjust the copper contacts inside and greased it. Closed it back up and put it back in place and Walla everything working just fine.
Dude when you were prying that laver off the peice and dropped the camera was funny asf
Thanks for the video I was able to fix my heat 💯💪🏿 my brother
My 2002 4 runner the heater cable itself, to the firewall heater valve was corroded/stuck and caused the armature to snap off. Check your cable to see if it moves freely.
Replaced cable and fixed the
Actuator.
It would be EXTREMELY useful if you would identify what make, model and year of what you are working on and have started out by zooming out to show where this area is located, systems positioned and what you had to do to get to it.
You should do a better video. Tag me when you make it, thanks
@@partsshooterbetter vid would be simple. Add year of car in description. Let us know when you get the title description right.
@@vintagemotomore2367 or...or... you can do a better video on your channel. I think that's a better idea. Show me how it's done
Thank for sharing another information sir...great job👍👏
I learned as much about what not to do as I did about what to do. But it's all good! Thanks
Explain what was missing information wise?
Sup my man! Yeah those actuator knock sounds are also very common especially on GMs. Man and as much for this great alternative to fix it taking apart...it's not worth it. I'd rather replace it new and not worry it to fail again...as you saw the plastic breaking on you.The only thing I repair internal electronics is when swapping ECUs soldering the ROM chip so I don't have to do key reprogramming on some cars that are difficult and expensive to program.
interesting mechanical information.. thank you for sharing bro
Great fix - cheaper than a replacement
Thanks for the video. What model year is the Sienna in the video?
I have to do this on my 2008 Sienna tomorrow God willing.
Are there 2 blend doors or just on the drivers side.?
By the way thank you for this awesome video!!
Which model is that? I have a 07 sienna CE and I dont have one there, whats going on? do I just change the passenger side, theres not even wires there
This video is miles better than the others! The problem with my 2009 Sienna CE is that is was blowing hot on the driver side. I opened up the panel, and lo and behold, the blend actuator wasn't there! I couldn't find a connector or arm from the airbox either. Is this because mine doesn't have dual climate control?
Are you looking for cold ac air to come out the vent that's hot? Or actuation? Just for clarification
@@partsshooter Hot air comes out on the driver side when the AC is running. It's cold on the passenger side. The mode doors move just fine, and the blend door on the passenger side moves. The part you take out in this video is just missing on mine. I also can't find wiring or an arm from the airbox where I could attach a new one.
what year sienna is this?
Hey. Question. I just got my AC recharged. Works great. Only thing is when I turn on the heat, I get heat on the drivers side. But cold air on the other. Would this fix that issue? Thank you
That's a symptom of a failed blend door
Man, I really appreciate the help and the great camera work! Who in the hell is doing the down votes? You rock. How long did the fix last?
Permanent... I did the other side like 2 years ago and it never failed also.
@@partsshooter That is great to hear. Thank you for the response.
If you break off the clips..you can add 4 small screws in each corner...there are holes ...that's what I did...
I have a 2010 Camry and the A/C starts off working great and then after driving for maybe 20 minutes it will start blowing hot for maybe 10 minutes and then back to cold. What’s causing this? Would it be this blend door that’s my problem. I already took the car to an A/C place and they said everything is fine and they couldn’t get it to go hot. Keep in mind the car just idled at the shop. Please help
How many miles? If it’s been checked by an ac shop is say it’s the clutch on the compressor itself if your at least 140k miles
Would this have anything to do with the AC not getting cold on the driver side? My ac is working, and very cold on the passenger side.🤷♂️
Yep. It sure does. I know this is currently my issue too.
I’d replace the assembly
I have a 2007 it has the Dual location climate ,but I would notice my motor seems to be located higher on top of that white piece above where you took yours out is this normal? It seems like it would be removed as one piece, with the white bracket's 2 screws, do you have experience with this?
You referring to driver side?
Which one do you think is my problem? I have heat in the whole car except the driver side. Toyota told me it was going to be 3k to fix
I'm having same problem with my 2011 sienna, did you get it fixed and what was it and how much did it cost?
You guys find a fix?
@Jim the one he is working on is the heat vs a/c or a blend between the two. The mode actuator is the one above it on the metal bracket. Just climb down there and u can touch it to feel it shake when it makes those weird sounds.
@@montanalop4533Any resolution here, bro? I have a same gen sienna with similar issues. Was poor airflow to defrost for some time and now it's not sending a/c to the driver side and rear.
What year (gen) is this Sienna
2006 to 2010 model
To have it stick
Sounds like super glue