I am constantly astounded that a dude can make this at his house. I don’t have the patience to do this incredibly detailed work but I’d love to meet Chris one day and just shake his hand.
Also Washington DC, Beijing, Hong Kong, and San Francisco. Somewhat disappointed that Sydne, Perth, Brisbane, New Auckland, Rio, and Johannesburg all missed the cut, though perhaps they are on the obverse.
@@RNMSC New Auckland? Where I live (Auckland, NZ), we just call it Auckland (or Tāmaki Makaurau). Yeah, everything would have to be mirror-image for the Southern Hemisphere
Wow, I have etched a few circuit boards in the past and I have never come across anything talking about the temperature of the ferric chloride while etching. Thank you for that piece of knowledge, will try it out next time.
You can use a cheap heating pad from the discount drug store to keep the outer water bath at a consistent temperature if you have several pieces to etch or if the work environment (outside is always a good idea when using ferric chloride) is a bit chilly.
Etching being a chemical process it's important to keep everything as consistent as possible. Ferric chloride can perform well even at sub-optimal temperatures but it takes a lot longer. And since you want consistent etch results, you want to be able to predict the time pretty closely from your test pieces. Other etchants perform much worse without extra heat. Mechanical agitation can be helpful too.
It's the same reason that cars kept in a garage rust out faster in areas that salt their roads and it's easier to start a campfire in the summer than the winter (given the same moisture content of the wood). Chemical reactions happen faster at higher temperatures.
Put the photoresist foil to the plate under the water stream, you will never have any air bubles or dust. Also peel the protective foil before exposure and make sure that the ink on the artwork foil is facing towards the photoresist. The thickness of the protective foil and the thickness of the artwork foil makes the lines out of focus. How do I know ? I made a few hundreds of double layer PCBs by this technique at home and I could do tracks 10/10mil at home with 0,25mm drill holes.
Beautiful 😍😍. After seeing cold tool steel all day, the warm brass components make me feel all snuggly inside! Thanks for sharing your hard work with the world.
You are indeed a master at your work Chris - incredible patience and skills.... as well as a mastery of video presentation. Results are amazing and it's very satisfying to watch. Thank you.
I hate youtube with a passion. I'm following your channel and I have watched almost every single video you made, and yet the last video that appeared in my feed was an episode of the Antikythera Mechanism, more than 2 years ago. I thought you had stopped making videos. At least now I have quite a few hours of content to binge watch.
Some say... 10 years from now, the final sundial video will appear, completing the hotly anticipated multi-decade series... (j/k keep up the production, these are great!)
I understand you like to use old methods and it’s amazing in this process. But are you using the ORIGINAL iPhone? Like the iPhone 1 from 2007?? Regardless amazing video as always. Cheers!
Photo etching always seems like one of the "black arts". There are so many places where it can all go wrong. When we all own desktop fiber lasers, all our troubles will be over. Regards, Preso.
You should get a vinyl cutter/plotter and chemical masking for your designs. I'm not sure if it's better than the method you use, but I can assure you that the quality of the design will never be in question. You can pick up a used machine likely in your local for sale groups for a couple hundred. And a roll of oracle chemica for maybe a couple hundred and it would last you a lifetime.
I know nothing about dial silvering powder. Does it deposit actual silver? Won't that tarnish quickly, or is part of the process adding lacquer or something to protect it?
We used to do bulk masking for some wet processes using a sticky, hard wax called Clamca, if there were areas that didn’t need coating we painted the area by hand with a thick paste of zinc oxide and glycerine, then the wax can be cut back and the white goop washes away leaving a clean surface. Works for hard chrome and anodising, but not electroless nickel which is just too hot. Might be a useful technique for something one day.
Looks incredibly sharp! Do you think there could be a plausible method to "overfill" the etching so the ink fill bulges up in low relief above the surface? Would that require a more viscous ink?
It's brass. Birchwood Casey also makes a product called "Brass Black", which shares a lot of ingredients with Super Blue. So they're somewhat interchangable. Some bluing solutions don't work as well on brass, but Super Blue does fine as long as the surface prep is done well.
These astronomical devices are mainly Northern Hemisphere oriented, and so is traditional astrology. I would like to know more about doing these things for the Southern Hemisphere. I'd imagine by now the data should be abundant enough, or easily acquired enough to make an australis version of it. What's your thought on that Chris, as an Australian? Greetings from the Netherlands
I love how the etching removes zinc preferentially so that the surface is more copper giving it a two-tone appearance. Edit: but it all gets covered :(
@@Clickspring we used to make eg. in- or out-lines with layers of transparent film using the refraction of a positive or negative film back then some 35 years ago in reprography before "the age of desktop publishing"
What’s older? The Byzantine calendar or the iPhone at 0:50?XD
I am constantly astounded that a dude can make this at his house. I don’t have the patience to do this incredibly detailed work but I’d love to meet Chris one day and just shake his hand.
And his workshop is positively tiny by most standards
shake his hand gently whilst wearing gloves as to not damage such priceless tools
Same here
Not just at his house, he basically makes this all in a broom closet.
In his literal closet!!!
Still rocking the old school iPhone, absolute classic!
love the idea of a byzantine calendar with "new york city" on it, incredible work as always
And Istanbul (Not Constantinople)
Also Washington DC, Beijing, Hong Kong, and San Francisco. Somewhat disappointed that Sydne, Perth, Brisbane, New Auckland, Rio, and Johannesburg all missed the cut, though perhaps they are on the obverse.
@@danilonascimento9866 🏆
@@RNMSC New Auckland? Where I live (Auckland, NZ), we just call it Auckland (or Tāmaki Makaurau). Yeah, everything would have to be mirror-image for the Southern Hemisphere
Clickspring posted a video... Today was a good day!☕
That "Silvering" is so cool I didn't even know that existed now I want to try it on a project. 👍👍👍
Metal plating is snazzy indeed
metal coated 3D prints are especially interesting
Wow, I have etched a few circuit boards in the past and I have never come across anything talking about the temperature of the ferric chloride while etching. Thank you for that piece of knowledge, will try it out next time.
You can use a cheap heating pad from the discount drug store to keep the outer water bath at a consistent temperature if you have several pieces to etch or if the work environment (outside is always a good idea when using ferric chloride) is a bit chilly.
some people use the heated bed of a 3d printed to keep it warm and keep it moving....
Etching being a chemical process it's important to keep everything as consistent as possible. Ferric chloride can perform well even at sub-optimal temperatures but it takes a lot longer. And since you want consistent etch results, you want to be able to predict the time pretty closely from your test pieces. Other etchants perform much worse without extra heat. Mechanical agitation can be helpful too.
It's the same reason that cars kept in a garage rust out faster in areas that salt their roads and it's easier to start a campfire in the summer than the winter (given the same moisture content of the wood). Chemical reactions happen faster at higher temperatures.
Put the photoresist foil to the plate under the water stream, you will never have any air bubles or dust. Also peel the protective foil before exposure and make sure that the ink on the artwork foil is facing towards the photoresist. The thickness of the protective foil and the thickness of the artwork foil makes the lines out of focus. How do I know ? I made a few hundreds of double layer PCBs by this technique at home and I could do tracks 10/10mil at home with 0,25mm drill holes.
Great tips, cheers :)
Amazing knowledge at the table here. Not me...I'm just looking
Absolutely amazing, Chris. You are as much a jeweler and artist as you are a horologist and machinist.
As always Chris, you made my day. I hope you understand that you are approaching mythical levels of patience and craftsmanship in today’s world.
Just as I was going to bed. Perfect wind-down video 😊
Stunning craftmanship as always. Thank you.
Never before have 12 minutes gone by so fast. I love your work
Been etching circuit boards and know how hard it can be to get a good result. Good job!
Awesome, Just sitting down to eat breakfast, now there's something excellent to watch. Thanks Chris.
Wow I've never even heard of that silvering powder, that's cool.
Just razing the bar , one or two kms at a time.mind blowing stuff.
Is it me or is Cris here the modern god of metalwork?
An actual Dwarf Artisan?
wow ! Never heard of silvering paste before !
This and so many other things that will help in my endeavor to make watch dials.
Thanks a lot !
Beautiful 😍😍. After seeing cold tool steel all day, the warm brass components make me feel all snuggly inside! Thanks for sharing your hard work with the world.
You are indeed a master at your work Chris - incredible patience and skills.... as well as a mastery of video presentation. Results are amazing and it's very satisfying to watch. Thank you.
This Channel is on another level. Mesmerised. Thanks Chris.
Imagine having a Time Machine and going back to the past, and showing them your incredible work.
Top notch, as usual. Looking forward to the final chapter.
I hate youtube with a passion. I'm following your channel and I have watched almost every single video you made, and yet the last video that appeared in my feed was an episode of the Antikythera Mechanism, more than 2 years ago. I thought you had stopped making videos.
At least now I have quite a few hours of content to binge watch.
You might be unaware that Chris has a short-form second channel to which he uploads content much more frequently: @ClickspringClips
Always an upside, even to algorithm madness
Chris's home workshop is so precisely controlled that even the stink has perfect laminar flow.
Breathtaking. Just stunning on all levels - craftsmanship at the highest level. Thanks, Chris - stoked to see this one coming together.
Some say... 10 years from now, the final sundial video will appear, completing the hotly anticipated multi-decade series... (j/k keep up the production, these are great!)
Dang! The algorithm stopped recommending this series! I need to go back and catch up! I used to watch all the time back in college
Very impressive as always Chris! Thanks much for sharing your talents with us.
I only used ferric chloride when making PCBs and didn't have to worry about eroding too deep, nice work. 🙂👍
Absolutely beautiful work as always
State of Art!!!! Gratissimo for sharing!!!!
Can I click the like button 5000 times?
Great job!
I've been following the project since the beginning, and I'm looking forward to seeing it finished!
Yay!! New Clickspring!
Your work always amazes me with its beauty. Thanks
This is visual poetry.
that is quiet the battle of materials, but the result is pretty much perfect!
Outstanding work
New click spring video!! Yes!! You just made my evening!
What kind of magic was that for silvering? I'd like to know more about that. It looked different than most plating processes that im familiar with
Oh so much work !
I'll just wait till Aldi has these on sale.
Wonderful work! Absolutely mesmerising!
Been here since the start Chris
Your videos never disappoint mate
Awesome stuff
Honey wake up new clickspring dropped
That is amazing work.
Can't wait for the last part!!! Another great video !!!
I hope when this grand project is complete, can please drop a start to finish for the whole project? Doesn’t matter how long it is I’ll watch. So cool
If one of the fiber laser companies tries to give you one, I'd love to see what magic you would conjure up with such a tool!
10:19 no way. These look so damn good
Truly amazing! thanks for sharing❤️
Love the post, thank you once again for a fantastic video
Amazing detail work ....
I understand you like to use old methods and it’s amazing in this process. But are you using the ORIGINAL iPhone? Like the iPhone 1 from 2007?? Regardless amazing video as always. Cheers!
A good lesson in photolithography.
Superb work, Chris!
Photo etching always seems like one of the "black arts". There are so many places where it can all go wrong. When we all own desktop fiber lasers, all our troubles will be over.
Regards, Preso.
Amazing work as usual.
This is beautiful
Thank you, brilliant.
Loved this
Amazing work!
You should get a vinyl cutter/plotter and chemical masking for your designs. I'm not sure if it's better than the method you use, but I can assure you that the quality of the design will never be in question.
You can pick up a used machine likely in your local for sale groups for a couple hundred. And a roll of oracle chemica for maybe a couple hundred and it would last you a lifetime.
Looks amazing
“In the next and final episode of the series” the most dreaded words…
I know nothing about dial silvering powder. Does it deposit actual silver? Won't that tarnish quickly, or is part of the process adding lacquer or something to protect it?
We used to do bulk masking for some wet processes using a sticky, hard wax called Clamca, if there were areas that didn’t need coating we painted the area by hand with a thick paste of zinc oxide and glycerine, then the wax can be cut back and the white goop washes away leaving a clean surface. Works for hard chrome and anodising, but not electroless nickel which is just too hot.
Might be a useful technique for something one day.
Just a reminder, Chis is not only Left-handed he is from Queensland. There is hope for us all!
is your phone from the same ancient period? :D
I have done some brass dial etching, but did not get such amazing results. I see now, that I should have practiced more. I must try harder!
Have you ever tried etching while it was in an heated ultrasonic cleaner?
Looks incredibly sharp! Do you think there could be a plausible method to "overfill" the etching so the ink fill bulges up in low relief above the surface? Would that require a more viscous ink?
I had no idea brass could be blued
Some Downunder supplier store owner: "Oi... here comes Clickspring again, gonna clean us out of acetone."
Is the solenoid display ring brass or steel? Looks like brass in the video but I've never heard of using gun blue to blacken brass.
It's brass. Birchwood Casey also makes a product called "Brass Black", which shares a lot of ingredients with Super Blue. So they're somewhat interchangable. Some bluing solutions don't work as well on brass, but Super Blue does fine as long as the surface prep is done well.
3:35 thought he said flying water, which would be pretty cool and what I will now pretend is a way of describing this
Same here. I shouted "Flying water!" My wife called from the next room, "What?" Me: "Nothing."
Incredible detail, as always! Have you ever tried the aerosol photo etch resist used for PCBs e.g. Kontakt-Chemie Positiv 20+ ?
I'm assuming with the wax you have to treat the device kind of delicately otherwise you would pop it out or scratch it up really bad?
That iphone is cool
These astronomical devices are mainly Northern Hemisphere oriented, and so is traditional astrology.
I would like to know more about doing these things for the Southern Hemisphere. I'd imagine by now the data should be abundant enough, or easily acquired enough to make an australis version of it. What's your thought on that Chris, as an Australian? Greetings from the Netherlands
Amazing.....
"In the next..." 🥳 "...and final episode " 😭
Why did you use that amber or orange bulb when handling photoresist film? Hope it was not to prevent exposure, as those emit some uv.
It would be great to see some more information about the silvering compound.
PS. Fantastic work as usual. The parts look stunning.
2:53 for a jump scare, so spooky.
Heaton the etching fluid could probably be done with a sousvid machine as well ☺️
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Its much easier to apply film on a wet surface then doing it dry. When applying wet - there is no dust or bubbles.
I love how the etching removes zinc preferentially so that the surface is more copper giving it a two-tone appearance.
Edit: but it all gets covered :(
printing the "image" reverse/mirrored but place it readable on the film, you get a crisper image after exposure as you have no refraction inbetween
Excellent tip, thank you :)
@@Clickspring we used to make eg. in- or out-lines with layers of transparent film using the refraction of a positive or negative film back then some 35 years ago in reprography before "the age of desktop publishing"
Wheres all the Ryobi power tools at????
Awesome start to a Friday, thanks Chris, I am constantly impressed at your ability to maintain the quality of work throughout
That iPhone is closer to the time of Byzantium than we are to that iPhone.
Acceptable…
Extraordinaire !!!!!! 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
let's goooo
👍👍👍
👍😎
What's Chris' next project? His projects always get more complicated than the last.
Must be worth thousands $