Sam I have to say mate. I suffer off and on with bouts of depression, and when I get those I go to your channel. Your humor and passion for this stuff is amazing and fun and makes me smile! So keep it up bud!
Yes, the fits tend to be a point where a lot of people struggle when they start of with 3D printing. Depending on your printer, it might be more or less precise. If you can find any kind of tolerance sheets, or anything regarding the tolerances, to which your printer works. I'd be happy to help you out a bit.
You're telling me!! I didn't find anything like that, but I've made notes on every build I've done - I've pretty much figured out the tolerances - general rule of thumb seems to be +/-0.2mm! So if I make a square peg for a square hole, adding .2mm per side to the hole usually produces a snug fit... +0.3/0.4 makes a nice loose fit! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Ah you‘ve already figured it out, brilliant. Yeah, generally in industrial applications there is a hole and a shaft. With this in mind there are three types of fits: 1. Clearance fit: The hole being slightly larger than the shaft. Meaning it has some play. So if we‘re talking about let‘s say an outer diameter for the shaft and inner diameter for the hole of 3mm. You could print it +0.2/ 0 on the hole side and -0.2/-0.4 on the shaft. Just to give it some play. 2. Interference fit: So in this case the shaft is actually larger, than the hole. So you actually need to apply some pressure to connect the parts. On the 3mm diameter it would be 0/-0.2 on the hole and +0.2/+0.4 on the shaft. 3. Transition fit: The trickiest of the three. These are generally used for bearings. Usually with these, it could go either into a clearance fit, or a interference fit. It depends on how the parts have been produced. So on the same 3mm diameter it could be for example +0.2/-0.2 on the hole and 0/-0.2 on the shaft. I could go into more detail, but this comment would turn into a text as long as the bible and it just wouldn’t be necessary for your purposes. However if you wish to know more, this is the link to the Wikipedia page: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineering_fit If you do decide to geek out and have some proper standards correct parts done. This is a link to a standards compendium used by draftsmen in Switzerland. Thankfully, SNV, the company who compiled it, made an english version for studies abroad, as well as diploma works. So if you want to snack a bit on that, here‘s a link for this frankly brilliant literature: shop.snv.ch/Anderes-Dokument/Diverses/STANDARDS-COMPENDIUM-2018.html?listtype=search&searchparam=standards%20compendium They do ship international, so the shipment won‘t be thing you‘re going to have to worry about. Due to the fact, that it‘s the ultimate book in it‘s class, it is quite costly. 81.- Swiss franks currently exchanges to about 64.- pounds sterling, so keep that in mind.
This is great that you now have a 3D printer! Congratulations! Here's a tip for you: these things are AMAZING for creating buildings!! I've made a good few and acrylic paint sticks reasonably well to both PLA and ABS, the only filaments I've used. Depending on the printer, you can get an amazing brick wall/slate roof texture going! Also another tip: for the fiddly little things like your buffers, if you set the print speed down so it goes slower, that allows the layers to properly cool before the next layer goes on, which will minimize warping and "fluff". Just my thoughts. Have a great time exploring the limitless world you've just entered! ;)
@@SamsTrains do you think we can get the 3D print files for the wagons there really good also sorry for asking and again also if u want try Thingiverse it’s a good site to get free files for model railway. But there not that much stuff tho 😒
haha that'd be awesome - I'd love to make something ridiculous in size... but I do only have a 15x15cm bed... so anything bigger than this needs to be modular! ;D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@Sam's Trains you could try to print one of those specialized wagons for transformer transport (I'm sure they have a name, but can't remember right now). With about 20 wheels it's sure to be a challenge. :)
@@SamsTrains it’s possible to print in parts and use glue is to hold them together. I’ve had a 3-D printer for quite a few years now and you can print even full-size helmets with the same print bed that you have. There is also ways of friction welding using Dremels which you could google.
I dunno about a cup.. you’d get through the whole pot and a dozen more in the time it would take to print that :-) funnily enough, I have a similar filament printer. I’ve just bought a resin printer, justified to myself because my new job involves 3D printing hearing aid parts in resin, but my actual thinking has always been what trains can I make with this? Best of luck Sam.. I’ll be following your endeavours with interest
This was the coolest idea ever! One of your best videos! You’ve really taken the potential for the channel to new heights and opened up many new avenues! I’d love to see you decorate/weather your wagons and who knows…maybe one day you’ll make your very own loco! Sam’s Trains Models?? Could become quite the competitor for Hornby and Bachmann!
I have had my own 3d printer for a few years now and couple of things to keep in mind, overhangs can be difficult to print without support material which you will have to take off after printing so if you can avoid doing them (at least to begin with) in designs you will make your life little bit easier. In regards to the 3d printed buffers, they may be more trouble than they are worth. If you only print one the layer below may not cool down enough to apply another layer ontop which will likely become wonky. If you print multiple the chances of one breaking off the print bed and material that should have gone into that buffer will remain on the the nozzle which may nock off the other objects and create what looks like a large pile of spaggetti or worce clog up your printer's hot end which I can assure you is a huge pain to clean up. They are also very similar to a stress test for stringing (those whispy artifacts you noticed). Another thing you may find interesting is that you can get filament with wood in which will accept a normal wood stains and varnishes, it could be interesting for wooden box carts and other wooden railway accessories. Something for a time in the future are resin 3d printers, they are capable of much more fine detail and are often used for mini figures etc. Resin 3d printers are much harder to deal with (the resin is really bad for your skin until it is fully cured which you have to do seperately after the print has finished) and you have definetly made a sensible choice to begin with a filament printer. These are 2 hobbies I have and have though that they could go really well with each other but due to lack of space and desire to over come have that problem I haven't done anything about the railway side. I do really look forwards to seeing what else you come up with :)
Hi Sam, I’ve just watched your 3D printer video and it’s great what you can do with it, but if you can find a scanner for your printer,then instead of doing all the measuring yourself, you just scan a wagon or whatever else and it produces it from the scan.All the best.👍😎
I've done this in N scale. Getting a big upgrade soon with a resin printer. Also with conventual printers and small parts it's good to make a frame around them and print them in large quantities so they stick to the print bed better
I've been thinking about a 3d printer for a long time. I work with gauge one so this would save me an absolute fortune! A coupling set is £40-100 per wagon or carriage! I think this has just helped me make up my mind.
Do it! I print fencing, milk churns, postboxes, coal staithes and so many other bits and bobs I've paid for my printers (yep I've got 3 of em) multiple times over.
just a few advices that could help you revolutionizing modelrailroad : - about the printed couplers, I would remove the litle hook's axle, reinforce a bit the body of the coupler around the place of the axle, design a .9mm(for a 1mm axle) in place and print it like this without any supports, just ad a piece of a paperclip to ensure a solid and round axle (the printers with its standard .4mm nozzle will never do a great job on such tiny details. - about printing tiny details : the key is to let the plastic cool down before coming back to the next layer, increasing the printing speed is going to add surface defects because of bigger accelerations, elasticity of belts,... my advice is to multiply the number of parts, lower the nozzle's head down to the lower printing temperatures of the material, use PLA or PETG, easier to print with cooling, (and far less harmfull fumes) and crank up the cooling fan speed to the maximum - when gluing printed parts, few options in my oppinion : 1) super glue gel ( it need to go in the gaps beetween the layers, a liquid one may not be as efficient 2) litle drops of solvents (do preliminary tests with sacrificial parts or failed ones), acetone works great on ABS (the only good aspect about it i my oppinion), dichloromethane works realy well on PLA and ABS(but is a little bit toxic, work in a well ventilated area), the main idea is that the solvent will dissolve the surface of the two parts, allowing them to fuse and to solidify once it has vaporated, that process also allow for vapor smoothing in speacialized tools. A few plasticks are dissolved in ethanol like polymaker polysmooth filament
The thing about 3D printers for model railways is that you can make either your locomotive and rolling stock fleets + add buildings and accessories without the high price tag. I've owned a Flashforge Finder 3D printer since March 2020 and my fleet has grown faster than I can buy for the shops. Also useful with some repairs or lost parts as I have a Mainline Rebuilt Scot with 3D-printed steps and a Tri-ang tender with 3D-printed wheels.
This is your best video so far. I've been modelling for nearly 70 years, and, like you, I've been interested in what I could do with a 3D printer, but so far I've wondered if it's beyond my abilities. You've encouraged me to have a go. With freelance narrow gauge I can't go wrong, as there's no prototype to compare the models with.
I love it! Did you know you can get the plastic for these printers that contains metal particles as a sort of metal composite material... You could make heavier tanks etc for some of your lightweight locos 😂
Glad to see more people making videos on this topic. I've been 3D printing rolling stock for a couple years now, it's the only way to make models of obscure prototypes without resorting to scratch building. Once you start adding detail parts like wire grab irons, brake wheels, and other castings, you can end up with a really high quality model. Don't forget to leave room somewhere for some added weight, light cars don't roll or track as well.
Thanks a lot for sharing - and yeah, plenty of possibilities! The wagons I've made so far have had fantastic weight to them already - a touch more than equivalent ones from Hornby! I deliberately made the chassis quite a chunky thing! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Wow - Fantastic job! My wife has a 3D printer that was given to her as a gift by a parent of a 5th grade student she had a few years ago, They were so appreciative of her as a teacher they surprised her with it! And to think they were like $5,000 when they first came out for consumers not long ago.
A few notes from a random guy on the internet who knows little about modern trains but some things about 3D modelling and stuff (3 years at Uni): - You have already showed signs of design intent (swapping different bodies on the same chassis) which most companies in general won't think of doing. - Seeing how quickly you can take control of the design process with the testing and quick realisation of certain issues proves that you are already a natural designer. Seeing how other companies do wrong can help you understand how to do things right. - I wouldn't compare your first project to other companies work too much because only have yourself to compare to at this stage, and you can only improve from here. Don't put yourself down too much, you have shared this experience with us for a reason, show it off and be proud of what you have made. - Do what you want to do. Your imagination is the limit. Personally, I would experiment with multiple types of wagons of different weights and shapes and potentially make a bigger standardised chassis like you have here for larger projects to test the limits. Congrats on 100k subs, road to 1 million starts here!
If you have the budget for it, a 3-D scanner would make a great companion tool to your 3-D printer. Then you would be able to scan almost any object and print a dimensionally-identical replica.
That's true!! But I actually prefer to design them myself - I wouldn't find it much fun to just copy a Hornby wagon or something... and it'd probably be a bit naughty too ;) Thanks for watching, Sam :)
i agree with the comments made at the end 100%. the biggest and most difficult part is choosing a good printer. i have used a 3d printer for 6+ years now, and i have yet to find a proper limit, 3d printing was one of the reasons why i got back into moddeling. being able to design parts for my layout as and when i need them is massively convenient and a lot of fun. once finished and painted they are indistiguisable from factory quality parts, and in a lot of cases, better, and stronger (especially bridges....looking at you hornby)
Many congratulations! - you not only broached a new technology, and created some very presentable wagons with working couplings - but also created an excellent informative and gripping video!
haha!! And I have to say... it wasn't that difficult to do!! xD And making it worse... 3D printing is *nowhere near* as accurate as their injection moulds will be!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Welcome to the world of 3D printing, Sam. I have an Ender 3 on loan from the college where I work. I have made lots of models, but none designed by me. I like your wagons very much. I am currently building a two-lane engine shed which I have printed. My good friend here got me into 3d printing and printed off a six-lane roundhouse that I have built. The doors were designed wrongly, so I have had to cut them. The new design is now available with a totally modified floor. Which I intend to print off and make available as a kit. Martin. (Thailand).
Excellent video, welcome to the world of 3D printing, yes, to run a 3D printer can involve a lot of tinkering, nothing to worry about, I had so many failed prints from my first 'Frankenstein' printer I built from parts, even with the ready assembled printers, you can get some issues, but this is an amazing learning curve as you find the best settings for your printer. In the early days of printing small detail like your buffers with 'fluff' prints (stringing), was hard to create, even with a smaller diameter nozzle, I reduced my stringing by printing the parts one at a time, but your fluffy buffers turned out great. Printers today have improved in many ways, you have chosen a nice machine for the Model Railway, next stop, buildings, and perhaps some track. It would be super to see the printed layers gone after the final painted result. I now use an Ender3 Max with a 300 x 300 x 340mm bed, perfect for larger tall prints :-)
I started 3D printing about a year and a half ago. Loads of fun. 3D printed a large bridge in several pieces for my layout and loads more. Really does open up lots of possibilities.
Well done Sam, excellent video and a welcome diversion from mass production models. I'm feeling motivated to make my own now, unless if course you make an LNWR brake van then I'm first on the list to buy it :-)
Coincidentally you already had dozens of suggestions to 3D print a drive gear/ axle muff for the Lafayette Norris 4-2-0. So many want to see the Lafayette running. No quartering accuracy needed with this single driver. Lots of potential to print parts to replace broken ones that low standard manufacturers not supply.
Sam, this was a great presentation! You showed that there really isn't anything to be afraid of in 3D printing. The biggest part of learning is the software. I have seen 3D printing in action, both the "ink-jet" style like you used, and also the UV resin system for much higher quality products. It is amazing what can be produced with these systems.
I was not expecting this video subject Sam, but so enjoyed it. Wow, hasn't technology moved forward. I was a CAD draughtsman and designer in aerospace for over 30 years, starting circa 1982 with wire frame modeling in monochrome green and black, then through the years to full 3D colour solid modeling. That first monochrome system for 6 Computervision terminal stations cost £250k and now you can download for free CAD software to use on one's laptop, jeeze ! You made the process of modelling look easy, but it didn't used to be. People who could use a CAD system and mentally think and visualise in 3D were paid a premium over traditional draughtsmen using a drawing board back in the day. I was very good at it so would love one of these systems. Alas, my laptop is steam powered and my house is full, so no room for a 3D printer, though my son has one, but he lives 250 miles away and his printer isn't as good as yours. Fits and clearances are second nature to me. One thing with 3D printing though is you can probably ignore having to design in dimensional tolerances, but I guess you will have to get an understanding of how the plastic material expands or shrinks compared to the dimension modeled when creating features which fit one into the other.
thank you sam .like you ive been very hesitant in buying a 3d printer..thank you for explaining it all ..im 56 and love model railways and love watching your channel..thanks again for showing how to use a 3d printer in a language we can all understand...
So it looks we are moving from "Sam's Trains" to "Sam's Emporium", uh? Very good job with those wagons and couplings but we don't want to "guess" how they should look alike once painted. We want to see them painted at once! So paint them , you lazy guy! :)
haha I'm not lazy... I just know from experience that they certainly wouldn't look better if *I* tried to paint them! Maybe I'll learn one day... but I'm just focusing on design right now! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I was just kidding, Sam. One of the members of our railway club uses his proffesional skills and tremendously expensive 3D printer to build some spare parts, wagons, etc. Even when using a proffesional 3D printer the parts must be sanded and smoothered...but then they look great. I would like to see how the last wagon you built looks after painting , because it is a beautiful little wagon. I'm sure it would look great on the tracks. Keep up the good work, Sam.
Congratulations, on both a great video and wonderful first wagon project! I have within the last 12 months bought my first 3D printed wagons in N gauge. I then painted, applied decals and finished. Very impressed with the results (especially 3D printed bogies and functional NEM sockets in N!). I now believe there is a 3D printer in my future. You should attempt a tanker next and then, you know you want to, a loco! Best
If you use niobium magnets on the chassis and top sections you will have a fully secure and stable connection. Also you will get best results in painting using enamel paints. Something to bear in mind is that the Indio honey comb uses a hell of a lot of material so you can cut down on costs of materials bumpy making the piece properly hollow and printing the roof separately.
Watching this video...wow, just wow. If you told 5 year old me that this would be in my 20s, never mind my lifetime. I would not have believed you. It is incredible how far technology has come. Though, if you need some ideas for that cube you showed at the start I have a few: A: It could be turned into a load for one of your wagons. B: It could be the foundation of a prop like a crane or a statue. C: It could be a crate if you ever add a more modern, industrial area to your layout. D: You could paint it up a bit to make it a sign somewhere. E: You could attatch a picture of an interior to it and give one of your buildings a bit more detail.
Absolutely fantastic, and a wagon really early into your ‘3d printer experience’ just brilliant. Having had my 3d printer for about 6 months now, its amazing what can be done. Most of my modelling is this way now. Yes you should do more, maybe after a while review the printer. You are right people think 3d printing is too difficult and beyond them, as if there is a secret mystery about it… When they realise and actually see whats involved its fairly easy. Personally I use tinkercad to design which gives you 3d shapes which you can add to or take chunks out off. Now Ive got my printer I wouldn’t want to be without
20:20, for the horizontal planks, well, anything repetitive, can be easily duplicated. You would create 1 plank at the size required, then you can select it > create component. Then move the plank and press CTRL, this will duplicate it. Move it to the final position and press enter, you can then type "/5” (without the quotes) and it will repeat the planks, this will repeat the planks, leaving 5 spaces. You can change the 5 to the amount of planks you require.
What a fantastic video tutorial. First time I've seen a 3D printer and CAD in action. Excellent results and such clear explanation of all the steps involved. Another high quality video. Well done!
The wagon and the fact that every single chassis is interchangeable with the body is truly fantastic, the only thing that I would criticise is the size, especially compared to the rolling stock that you used for the stability test, they are absolutely tiny, they look fantastic on their own though, and I would definitely say go ahead with making many more!
Thanks so much - yes you're right about the size - what happened was I scaled the van to fit the chassis! Obviously if I was doing this seriously I'd be making a proper chassis to fit the real dimensions of the van! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great “start” (like way more than a start!) on 3D printing for model railroading! Glad to see someone else jumping in and just going for it with fairly complex models as a way learn design software and experimenting with printer capabilities. I have mostly done bridges, bridge piers and some simple chassis so far, but toying with the idea of designing and creating my own model shells for trains that are expensive, hard to find or in some cases… never created by a manufacturer! I also have an FDM printer but I work in Z scale and for things like these chassis and couplers, I can’t get the level of precision and detail high enough so I think resin/MSLA printing is the way to go for tiny, “non-structural” small parts because you can get so much finer detail and practically zero print lines. Looks like you can do pretty well down to HO/OO scale with the details on FDM, though! Cool! Keep up the good work!
I got a printer too last year, and I have already made some locomotive bodies with it, including one with a fully 3D printed tender, and I'm currently working on some LMS 40T hoppers among other things. It's amazing what is possible with these things!
Way to go Sam, I can see you're totally wrapped, and why not!! Something I've pondered on like you, but great to see how functional these are in the model railway space. Thanks very much for bringing this to our attention. Cheers, Greg, NZ PS, locally these are well over 500 quid, but still worth it.
Hey Sam - A few yrs ago I built my own 3D Printer - from a 'Part Work' Mag called "Build your own 3D Printer' by Eaglemoss - it was in 90 Parts (1 part perk week which meant it took 90 weeks to build + 20 Extra Mags for a Tool kit &spare parts!!!) & yes they show in the Mag how to use SketchUp - I also found it fun to do - I 3D Printed some holders for my SD Cards!!! 🙂🚂🚂🚂
Hi Sam, I also have recently taken up 3D printing and have an Ender 3 V2 and use Tinkercad for design. I fully share and recognise your enthusiasm for this. It is a revelation when you find out what can be done quite quickly and easily. I mainly make stuff that is not available to buy, The main item being a simple conversion kit for the Triang Blue Pullman to turn a Parlour car into Kitchen car, it is not fully detailed but gives a good likeness. Good luck with your further endeavours, I shall watch with interest
Sam, I enjoy your videos, and this was one of your best. Thank you for sharing and opening up a world of possibilities for a very amateur model railroader and dedicated military miniatures fan. Cheers from Aotearoa New Zealand!
I've been making my own 3D-printed Roling stalk and locomotives for a while now. some notable ones I've made have been a remix of a J70 Toby, Tramway Luggage van (Elsie), and my (regular/mini) J50 pre-RWS Thomas. I also made my rolling stalk to have swappable tops adhered with magnets. I also recommend 7gm wights for the rolling stalk and locomotives you print if there's room. I put my wights underneath my rolling stalk where it not noticable. there are many sites where you can find ok to amazing Ho/Oo gauge models.
You are an inspiration to me and I can not wait to have my 3D printer, I already have a train car chassis ready to print, now I just gotta finish the body and then print the final product!
Great work Sam... I purchased a 3D printer a couple of years ago and I have never taken it out of the box and used it. I designed a number of railway models using Sketchup. It's a great and easy to use. I think it's time for me to step up to the plate and use the 3D printer. Cheers
Fantastic, I can’t believe what you have created. Makes me want one of these. Please do more videos to show your progress. I don’t think I blinked once while watching it!
Sam, you have truly "upped your game" as a model railway enthusiast with your 3D printing. I'm particularly impressed with your skill with the CAD software. I believe that you will learn (if you haven't already) that watching a model you built yourself move down the track is orders of magnitude more satisfying that doing the same with store-bought equipment. What next, airbrushing and lettering with decals? My sincere congratulations and Cheers from Wisconsin!
Really impressed. Now to make some model buildings, etc. Here a re a few ideas for you. How about some retaining walls? A tunnel entrance? Maybe a workman's hut or water tower? Or snap together brick/stone walls similar to Linka kits so you can create your own buildings? Barrels, sacks, notice/poster boards? etc.
Hi Sam. I'm mightily impressed by how much you have achieved with a mid-range printer and basic freeware. I would love to see more videos in a similar vein.
I learned using sketchup that you can select a separate part of the model and maybe shift and select to select a single piece and you can right click and make it a component s it doesn’t glue together to the other pieces and you can select something right click and flip a lot a axis which is much nice than scaling it
Thank you for all the videos you've produced regarding the model railroad hobby -- I am learning A LOT. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to sharing your knowledge and for passing on tips and advice. Regarding the 3D printer -- can you, or anyone watching/reading this (I realize it's old video so may not get response) give advise regarding an affordable printer for a beginner which has the option to use a nozzle smaller than the 0.4mm size which seems to be standard for beginner level machines? Thank you for your time and assistance.
Have fun with the new printer Sam. I’ve printed a few 1 plank wagons and used the metal wheels from AliExpress. They roll great, but I still need to work on the couplings. Instead I might print them with NEM pockets.
well, that was interesting, i think your first venture into your own wagon building is good, i would make the box car the same height as the other ones you have so it fits in, also having the capability to switch bodies would help people with limited space, you could be onto a winner here, can not wait to see how they look if or when you paint them, well done.
A superb video Sam. I am at the "shall I buy a printer stage" and have been looking. Thingiverse has a Simplex by Dave Watkins available on it. Anyone who likes 16mm garden railways will know that Dave is a superb designer - and is very generous with his work for the enjoyment of anyone - I would love to see you have a go at that. I see the comments all wanting to have a go at you design - why not open a Thingiverse account (Free) and share the files. This is another great direction your channel is heading in - many thanks Sam.
Awesome video Sam The wagons are fabulous ... I have been thinking of purchasing a printer myself ... You may have sealed the deal ... More videos like this are fine by me The satisfaction acquired from preparation, engineering design and maintenance is the heart of the hobby Watching the train go round seems the smallest part of it all
Well you got yourself a great printer for a start and the Guider is a pretty sweet little printer. I have been 3D printer O gauge Australian NSWR for a couple of years amongst other hobbies. Now I just have to find time to get a layout into the garden, maybe when I retire one day. Well done Sam, well done. Cheers Brad
When I was in college (nearly 30 years ago) this technology was only just getting going. It was then called "Stereolithography" or "rapid prototyping" which kind of hints at why it was invented. The product of Stereolithography is a physical model of a design which can then be produced at scale by much more efficient machines,
Once you "master" printing of goods rolling stock, try passenger coaches! 👍👍 or even (diesel) loco bodies that would fit an existing commercial loco chassis. But not only train stock itself, you could design and create stuff like street/track side decoration - signs, semaphore signals, station platforms, signal boxes, engine sheds, turntables (?), level crossing gates (both classic 'gate' and boom-gate types), level crossing traffic signals (the sign post "stop on red signal" sign and light 'sockets' for fitting LED's for the signal lights)
Flashforge Adventurer is good. I've had mine for a couple of years and still works absolutely fine. The only major downside is that it doesn't really like other filaments than original Flashforge so keep that in mind Sam. Replacing the nozzle with the updated version makes no difference. Next step - resin printer but that's far more complex. On the positive side the quality of print is second to none - as good as from a factory.
Sam I have to say mate. I suffer off and on with bouts of depression, and when I get those I go to your channel. Your humor and passion for this stuff is amazing and fun and makes me smile! So keep it up bud!
Thank you so much for sharing Walter - that's lovely to hear. You're welcome here any time my friend!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
This is where Sam starts his own budget model railway company
Sam's Models & Co.
@@lukeslocomotives est. 2021. -= "we don't derail like others" =-
El Cheapo models Co
haha you never know! They wouldn't be pretty, but you can bet they'd work ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@lukeslocomotives he should buy a plethora of 3D printers to kickstart the ocean of custom wagons
"you must be sick of my voice right now"
WOW, Sam, why would we ever get tired of your marvelous voice!?
haha you're very kind!! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Agreed!
So true he is better at speaking than i could ever hope to be
I'm definitely hearing tones of Brian Cox
You could design your own Sam’s trains loco and rolling stock
Yes
Yes
Yes
Maybe!! I would love that!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains you could create a 3D Printed Bullman
Yes, the fits tend to be a point where a lot of people struggle when they start of with 3D printing. Depending on your printer, it might be more or less precise.
If you can find any kind of tolerance sheets, or anything regarding the tolerances, to which your printer works. I'd be happy to help you out a bit.
You're telling me!! I didn't find anything like that, but I've made notes on every build I've done - I've pretty much figured out the tolerances - general rule of thumb seems to be +/-0.2mm! So if I make a square peg for a square hole, adding .2mm per side to the hole usually produces a snug fit... +0.3/0.4 makes a nice loose fit!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Ah you‘ve already figured it out, brilliant.
Yeah, generally in industrial applications there is a hole and a shaft. With this in mind there are three types of fits:
1. Clearance fit: The hole being slightly larger than the shaft. Meaning it has some play. So if we‘re talking about let‘s say an outer diameter for the shaft and inner diameter for the hole of 3mm. You could print it +0.2/ 0 on the hole side and -0.2/-0.4 on the shaft. Just to give it some play.
2. Interference fit: So in this case the shaft is actually larger, than the hole. So you actually need to apply some pressure to connect the parts. On the 3mm diameter it would be 0/-0.2 on the hole and +0.2/+0.4 on the shaft.
3. Transition fit: The trickiest of the three. These are generally used for bearings. Usually with these, it could go either into a clearance fit, or a interference fit. It depends on how the parts have been produced. So on the same 3mm diameter it could be for example +0.2/-0.2 on the hole and 0/-0.2 on the shaft.
I could go into more detail, but this comment would turn into a text as long as the bible and it just wouldn’t be necessary for your purposes.
However if you wish to know more, this is the link to the Wikipedia page: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineering_fit
If you do decide to geek out and have some proper standards correct parts done. This is a link to a standards compendium used by draftsmen in Switzerland. Thankfully, SNV, the company who compiled it, made an english version for studies abroad, as well as diploma works. So if you want to snack a bit on that, here‘s a link for this frankly brilliant literature: shop.snv.ch/Anderes-Dokument/Diverses/STANDARDS-COMPENDIUM-2018.html?listtype=search&searchparam=standards%20compendium They do ship international, so the shipment won‘t be thing you‘re going to have to worry about. Due to the fact, that it‘s the ultimate book in it‘s class, it is quite costly. 81.- Swiss franks currently exchanges to about 64.- pounds sterling, so keep that in mind.
This is great that you now have a 3D printer! Congratulations! Here's a tip for you: these things are AMAZING for creating buildings!! I've made a good few and acrylic paint sticks reasonably well to both PLA and ABS, the only filaments I've used. Depending on the printer, you can get an amazing brick wall/slate roof texture going! Also another tip: for the fiddly little things like your buffers, if you set the print speed down so it goes slower, that allows the layers to properly cool before the next layer goes on, which will minimize warping and "fluff".
Just my thoughts. Have a great time exploring the limitless world you've just entered! ;)
The first test cube you produced has already surpassed the quality of Heljan . . Lol!
haha this is true... though it surpassed them while still on the spool ;)
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam's trains could beat heljan by making 3d printed trains lol stonks
@@SamsTrains do you think we can get the 3D print files for the wagons there really good also sorry for asking and again also if u want try Thingiverse it’s a good site to get free files for model railway. But there not that much stuff tho 😒
@@Ace-ph7zl YES!!!
i mean in all fairness, there certainly aren't any glue marks, so that is technically true!
you should print a very long flat bed that holds something like a rocket or a big wind turbine!
haha that'd be awesome - I'd love to make something ridiculous in size... but I do only have a 15x15cm bed... so anything bigger than this needs to be modular! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@Sam's Trains you could try to print one of those specialized wagons for transformer transport (I'm sure they have a name, but can't remember right now). With about 20 wheels it's sure to be a challenge. :)
@@SamsTrains it’s possible to print in parts and use glue is to hold them together. I’ve had a 3-D printer for quite a few years now and you can print even full-size helmets with the same print bed that you have. There is also ways of friction welding using Dremels which you could google.
@@paquebot_T6 Schnabel car
@@Elfnetdesigns Thank you good sir
"Replicator - one Union Pacific Northern, 844,
O scale".
Gets a cup of Earl Grey...
Ooh that'd be fun!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
"Make it so"
I dunno about a cup.. you’d get through the whole pot and a dozen more in the time it would take to print that :-) funnily enough, I have a similar filament printer. I’ve just bought a resin printer, justified to myself because my new job involves 3D printing hearing aid parts in resin, but my actual thinking has always been what trains can I make with this? Best of luck Sam.. I’ll be following your endeavours with interest
Welldone Sam. For a first timer, you've done very well indeed.
More printing please. 🙂
This was the coolest idea ever! One of your best videos! You’ve really taken the potential for the channel to new heights and opened up many new avenues! I’d love to see you decorate/weather your wagons and who knows…maybe one day you’ll make your very own loco! Sam’s Trains Models?? Could become quite the competitor for Hornby and Bachmann!
I have had my own 3d printer for a few years now and couple of things to keep in mind, overhangs can be difficult to print without support material which you will have to take off after printing so if you can avoid doing them (at least to begin with) in designs you will make your life little bit easier.
In regards to the 3d printed buffers, they may be more trouble than they are worth. If you only print one the layer below may not cool down enough to apply another layer ontop which will likely become wonky. If you print multiple the chances of one breaking off the print bed and material that should have gone into that buffer will remain on the the nozzle which may nock off the other objects and create what looks like a large pile of spaggetti or worce clog up your printer's hot end which I can assure you is a huge pain to clean up. They are also very similar to a stress test for stringing (those whispy artifacts you noticed).
Another thing you may find interesting is that you can get filament with wood in which will accept a normal wood stains and varnishes, it could be interesting for wooden box carts and other wooden railway accessories.
Something for a time in the future are resin 3d printers, they are capable of much more fine detail and are often used for mini figures etc. Resin 3d printers are much harder to deal with (the resin is really bad for your skin until it is fully cured which you have to do seperately after the print has finished) and you have definetly made a sensible choice to begin with a filament printer.
These are 2 hobbies I have and have though that they could go really well with each other but due to lack of space and desire to over come have that problem I haven't done anything about the railway side. I do really look forwards to seeing what else you come up with :)
Hi Sam,
I’ve just watched your 3D printer video and it’s great what you can do with it, but if you can find a scanner for your printer,then instead of doing all the measuring yourself, you just scan a wagon or whatever else and it produces it from the scan.All the best.👍😎
I've done this in N scale. Getting a big upgrade soon with a resin printer. Also with conventual printers and small parts it's good to make a frame around them and print them in large quantities so they stick to the print bed better
I have often wondered about 3D printing and it’s associated software and this was a great introduction. Well done!
Many thanks Allan - hope this was some help! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I've been thinking about a 3d printer for a long time. I work with gauge one so this would save me an absolute fortune! A coupling set is £40-100 per wagon or carriage!
I think this has just helped me make up my mind.
Beautiful, this makes me want to buy a 3D printer.
Awesome!! I can recommend it ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Same here, the ideas I have for this
Do it!
I print fencing, milk churns, postboxes, coal staithes and so many other bits and bobs I've paid for my printers (yep I've got 3 of em) multiple times over.
just a few advices that could help you revolutionizing modelrailroad :
- about the printed couplers, I would remove the litle hook's axle, reinforce a bit the body of the coupler around the place of the axle, design a .9mm(for a 1mm axle) in place and print it like this without any supports, just ad a piece of a paperclip to ensure a solid and round axle (the printers with its standard .4mm nozzle will never do a great job on such tiny details.
- about printing tiny details : the key is to let the plastic cool down before coming back to the next layer, increasing the printing speed is going to add surface defects because of bigger accelerations, elasticity of belts,... my advice is to multiply the number of parts, lower the nozzle's head down to the lower printing temperatures of the material, use PLA or PETG, easier to print with cooling, (and far less harmfull fumes) and crank up the cooling fan speed to the maximum
- when gluing printed parts, few options in my oppinion :
1) super glue gel ( it need to go in the gaps beetween the layers, a liquid one may not be as efficient
2) litle drops of solvents (do preliminary tests with sacrificial parts or failed ones), acetone works great on ABS (the only good aspect about it i my oppinion), dichloromethane works realy well on PLA and ABS(but is a little bit toxic, work in a well ventilated area), the main idea is that the solvent will dissolve the surface of the two parts, allowing them to fuse and to solidify once it has vaporated, that process also allow for vapor smoothing in speacialized tools. A few plasticks are dissolved in ethanol like polymaker polysmooth filament
Sam all I/ all of us can say THIS IS ONE OF YOUR BEST INVESTMENTS
I think you might be right - it's looking that way! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains are you providing the stl’s to members or free for all?
YES ! Onward and Upward ! !
The thing about 3D printers for model railways is that you can make either your locomotive and rolling stock fleets + add buildings and accessories without the high price tag. I've owned a Flashforge Finder 3D printer since March 2020 and my fleet has grown faster than I can buy for the shops. Also useful with some repairs or lost parts as I have a Mainline Rebuilt Scot with 3D-printed steps and a Tri-ang tender with 3D-printed wheels.
This is absolutely amazing and opens up the door to so many more possibilities. I hoping there’s a way to share your designs so others can print
Thanks so much Peter - I will look at that when I get better! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
A soft brass brush takes care of the stringy stuff really well!
Sam, you should totally release models like this! Even just the files to 3D print for a few dollars, could he absolutely fantastic
This is your best video so far. I've been modelling for nearly 70 years, and, like you, I've been interested in what I could do with a 3D printer, but so far I've wondered if it's beyond my abilities. You've encouraged me to have a go.
With freelance narrow gauge I can't go wrong, as there's no prototype to compare the models with.
I love it! Did you know you can get the plastic for these printers that contains metal particles as a sort of metal composite material... You could make heavier tanks etc for some of your lightweight locos 😂
Glad to see more people making videos on this topic. I've been 3D printing rolling stock for a couple years now, it's the only way to make models of obscure prototypes without resorting to scratch building. Once you start adding detail parts like wire grab irons, brake wheels, and other castings, you can end up with a really high quality model. Don't forget to leave room somewhere for some added weight, light cars don't roll or track as well.
Thanks a lot for sharing - and yeah, plenty of possibilities! The wagons I've made so far have had fantastic weight to them already - a touch more than equivalent ones from Hornby! I deliberately made the chassis quite a chunky thing! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Well, Sam is getting more creative with his videos isn’t he?
haha thank you!! :D
Sam secretly setting up a model company, reviewing them and giving brilliant reviews and having a ton of people buy them.
@@SamsTrains you’re welcome mate!
@@thomasawl lol
Creative yes, but also crafty. lets see where this all leads, i suspect there is already a plan brewing in back of his mind.
Wow - Fantastic job! My wife has a 3D printer that was given to her as a gift by a parent of a 5th grade student she had a few years ago, They were so appreciative of her as a teacher they surprised her with it! And to think they were like $5,000 when they first came out for consumers not long ago.
You should do the buffer holes heljan size so when they fall off you've got a use for them
That killed me
A few notes from a random guy on the internet who knows little about modern trains but some things about 3D modelling and stuff (3 years at Uni):
- You have already showed signs of design intent (swapping different bodies on the same chassis) which most companies in general won't think of doing.
- Seeing how quickly you can take control of the design process with the testing and quick realisation of certain issues proves that you are already a natural designer. Seeing how other companies do wrong can help you understand how to do things right.
- I wouldn't compare your first project to other companies work too much because only have yourself to compare to at this stage, and you can only improve from here. Don't put yourself down too much, you have shared this experience with us for a reason, show it off and be proud of what you have made.
- Do what you want to do. Your imagination is the limit. Personally, I would experiment with multiple types of wagons of different weights and shapes and potentially make a bigger standardised chassis like you have here for larger projects to test the limits.
Congrats on 100k subs, road to 1 million starts here!
If you have the budget for it, a 3-D scanner would make a great companion tool to your 3-D printer. Then you would be able to scan almost any object and print a dimensionally-identical replica.
That's true!! But I actually prefer to design them myself - I wouldn't find it much fun to just copy a Hornby wagon or something... and it'd probably be a bit naughty too ;)
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I agree. The process of designing something and figuring out how it should be made is a lot more fun than just cloning existing items.
i agree with the comments made at the end 100%. the biggest and most difficult part is choosing a good printer. i have used a 3d printer for 6+ years now, and i have yet to find a proper limit, 3d printing was one of the reasons why i got back into moddeling. being able to design parts for my layout as and when i need them is massively convenient and a lot of fun. once finished and painted they are indistiguisable from factory quality parts, and in a lot of cases, better, and stronger (especially bridges....looking at you hornby)
"Caressed them, if you will"
woah sam, not sure your talking about the buffers anymore *;)*
haha yeah... got a bit carried away!! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains always happy to watch your videos sam! :)
Many congratulations! - you not only broached a new technology, and created some very presentable wagons with working couplings - but also created an excellent informative and gripping video!
Breaking news: Local man's very first self-designed NEM coupling outperforms equivalents from established companies; Heljan too embarrassed to comment
Lol
'England Man'
Heljan has left the chat!
haha!! And I have to say... it wasn't that difficult to do!! xD
And making it worse... 3D printing is *nowhere near* as accurate as their injection moulds will be!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
could well be true.......:-)
Welcome to the world of 3D printing, Sam. I have an Ender 3 on loan from the college where I work. I have made lots of models, but none designed by me. I like your wagons very much. I am currently building a two-lane engine shed which I have printed. My good friend here got me into 3d printing and printed off a six-lane roundhouse that I have built. The doors were designed wrongly, so I have had to cut them. The new design is now available with a totally modified floor. Which I intend to print off and make available as a kit. Martin. (Thailand).
I can see the reviews now... “disappointing lack of die cast”
haha that's true!! When metal printers get good, you know who'll get one! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I think it's more of a "when metal 3d printers get cheap".
@@stevelomas4119 i woulder if you could make spring buffers with a resin printer...?
@@globin3477 the arcam is pretty cheap, only €25k
You have truly got an eye for detail. I look forward to you using this on your channel.
Sams gonna start reviewing his own locos now
haha maybe!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Excellent video, welcome to the world of 3D printing, yes, to run a 3D printer can involve a lot of tinkering, nothing to worry about, I had so many failed prints from my first 'Frankenstein' printer I built from parts, even with the ready assembled printers, you can get some issues, but this is an amazing learning curve as you find the best settings for your printer. In the early days of printing small detail like your buffers with 'fluff' prints (stringing), was hard to create, even with a smaller diameter nozzle, I reduced my stringing by printing the parts one at a time, but your fluffy buffers turned out great. Printers today have improved in many ways, you have chosen a nice machine for the Model Railway, next stop, buildings, and perhaps some track. It would be super to see the printed layers gone after the final painted result. I now use an Ender3 Max with a 300 x 300 x 340mm bed, perfect for larger tall prints :-)
Whenever I need advice or need something to fix my trains immediately go to sam
Same lol
Oh no!! xD
XD
I started 3D printing about a year and a half ago. Loads of fun. 3D printed a large bridge in several pieces for my layout and loads more. Really does open up lots of possibilities.
Ultimate prove for Sam is the most intelligent human being to date. :D
haha definitely not!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Don’t doubt yourself Sam everybody knows you are the place to go to if we need some model rail knowledge
Lol hahahaha
Well done Sam, excellent video and a welcome diversion from mass production models. I'm feeling motivated to make my own now, unless if course you make an LNWR brake van then I'm first on the list to buy it :-)
Coincidentally you already had dozens of suggestions to 3D print a drive gear/ axle muff for the Lafayette Norris 4-2-0.
So many want to see the Lafayette running.
No quartering accuracy needed with this single driver.
Lots of potential to print parts to replace broken ones that low standard manufacturers not supply.
Thank you just what i needed i am designing a boer war armoured train
Amazing!! Good luck with that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Have a look at the Romney Hythe and dimchurch railways armoured train
@@railswithethan3715 okay i will
Sam, this was a great presentation! You showed that there really isn't anything to be afraid of in 3D printing. The biggest part of learning is the software. I have seen 3D printing in action, both the "ink-jet" style like you used, and also the UV resin system for much higher quality products. It is amazing what can be produced with these systems.
I clicked faster than my parents dropped me when I was a kid
haha awesome - hope you enjoy it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains don’t think Sam knew how to approach this comment
Sam just said awesome to you being dropped as a kid lmao
Hol up-
@@SamsTrains ààQ
I was not expecting this video subject Sam, but so enjoyed it. Wow, hasn't technology moved forward. I was a CAD draughtsman and designer in aerospace for over 30 years, starting circa 1982 with wire frame modeling in monochrome green and black, then through the years to full 3D colour solid modeling. That first monochrome system for 6 Computervision terminal stations cost £250k and now you can download for free CAD software to use on one's laptop, jeeze !
You made the process of modelling look easy, but it didn't used to be. People who could use a CAD system and mentally think and visualise in 3D were paid a premium over traditional draughtsmen using a drawing board back in the day. I was very good at it so would love one of these systems. Alas, my laptop is steam powered and my house is full, so no room for a 3D printer, though my son has one, but he lives 250 miles away and his printer isn't as good as yours.
Fits and clearances are second nature to me. One thing with 3D printing though is you can probably ignore having to design in dimensional tolerances, but I guess you will have to get an understanding of how the plastic material expands or shrinks compared to the dimension modeled when creating features which fit one into the other.
When he hits 200,000 subs "I made a locomotive from Scratch"
haha - for 200,000 subs I'll give it a try! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I’m a witness
I wounder if a steamer would work a diesel should be quite doable
thank you sam .like you ive been very hesitant in buying a 3d printer..thank you for explaining it all ..im 56 and love model railways and love watching your channel..thanks again for showing how to use a 3d printer in a language we can all understand...
So it looks we are moving from "Sam's Trains" to "Sam's Emporium", uh? Very good job with those wagons and couplings but we don't want to "guess" how they should look alike once painted. We want to see them painted at once! So paint them , you lazy guy! :)
That mean!
haha I'm not lazy... I just know from experience that they certainly wouldn't look better if *I* tried to paint them! Maybe I'll learn one day... but I'm just focusing on design right now!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I was just kidding, Sam. One of the members of our railway club uses his proffesional skills and tremendously expensive 3D printer to build some spare parts, wagons, etc. Even when using a proffesional 3D printer the parts must be sanded and smoothered...but then they look great. I would like to see how the last wagon you built looks after painting , because it is a beautiful little wagon. I'm sure it would look great on the tracks. Keep up the good work, Sam.
@@sandieminx2266 It was just a bit of sarcasm.
. I thought that being British...
@@jagc1969 oh well then I'm DUM
Congratulations, on both a great video and wonderful first wagon project!
I have within the last 12 months bought my first 3D printed wagons in N gauge.
I then painted, applied decals and finished. Very impressed with the results (especially 3D printed bogies and functional NEM sockets in N!).
I now believe there is a 3D printer in my future.
You should attempt a tanker next and then, you know you want to, a loco!
Best
have you ever thought about uploading these designs to thingiverse so we can have a go at printing them?
If you use niobium magnets on the chassis and top sections you will have a fully secure and stable connection. Also you will get best results in painting using enamel paints. Something to bear in mind is that the Indio honey comb uses a hell of a lot of material so you can cut down on costs of materials bumpy making the piece properly hollow and printing the roof separately.
I really hope Sam designs a locomotive, I’d love to see what his imagination thinks up!
haha maybe one day - I'll have to practice some more first!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The John Bullman locomotive
Watching this video...wow, just wow. If you told 5 year old me that this would be in my 20s, never mind my lifetime. I would not have believed you. It is incredible how far technology has come.
Though, if you need some ideas for that cube you showed at the start I have a few:
A: It could be turned into a load for one of your wagons.
B: It could be the foundation of a prop like a crane or a statue.
C: It could be a crate if you ever add a more modern, industrial area to your layout.
D: You could paint it up a bit to make it a sign somewhere.
E: You could attatch a picture of an interior to it and give one of your buildings a bit more detail.
When Sam is good at 3D printing he should try make a class 390 pendolino
haha! Think I might need a bigger printer! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Print quality looks very good, glad your research on printer choice paid off! Enjoy!
*Next episode: 3D printing an entire model train (ITS RUNS)*
OMG YAS!
haha, sounds like an amazing title!! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Absolutely fantastic, and a wagon really early into your ‘3d printer experience’ just brilliant. Having had my 3d printer for about 6 months now, its amazing what can be done. Most of my modelling is this way now. Yes you should do more, maybe after a while review the printer.
You are right people think 3d printing is too difficult and beyond them, as if there is a secret mystery about it… When they realise and actually see whats involved its fairly easy. Personally I use tinkercad to design which gives you 3d shapes which you can add to or take chunks out off. Now Ive got my printer I wouldn’t want to be without
sam at 4:08 "I printed a parts tray"
sam at 13:50 *doesn't even use the parts tray he made*
haha that's true!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I could be interested in a parts tray. Sam's trains merch?
20:20, for the horizontal planks, well, anything repetitive, can be easily duplicated. You would create 1 plank at the size required, then you can select it > create component. Then move the plank and press CTRL, this will duplicate it. Move it to the final position and press enter, you can then type "/5” (without the quotes) and it will repeat the planks, this will repeat the planks, leaving 5 spaces. You can change the 5 to the amount of planks you require.
Nah Sam don't bother buying a Big Boy just make your own:)
haha exactly!! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
What a fantastic video tutorial. First time I've seen a 3D printer and CAD in action.
Excellent results and such clear explanation of all the steps involved.
Another high quality video. Well done!
The wagon and the fact that every single chassis is interchangeable with the body is truly fantastic, the only thing that I would criticise is the size, especially compared to the rolling stock that you used for the stability test, they are absolutely tiny, they look fantastic on their own though, and I would definitely say go ahead with making many more!
Thanks so much - yes you're right about the size - what happened was I scaled the van to fit the chassis! Obviously if I was doing this seriously I'd be making a proper chassis to fit the real dimensions of the van!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great “start” (like way more than a start!) on 3D printing for model railroading! Glad to see someone else jumping in and just going for it with fairly complex models as a way learn design software and experimenting with printer capabilities.
I have mostly done bridges, bridge piers and some simple chassis so far, but toying with the idea of designing and creating my own model shells for trains that are expensive, hard to find or in some cases… never created by a manufacturer!
I also have an FDM printer but I work in Z scale and for things like these chassis and couplers, I can’t get the level of precision and detail high enough so I think resin/MSLA printing is the way to go for tiny, “non-structural” small parts because you can get so much finer detail and practically zero print lines. Looks like you can do pretty well down to HO/OO scale with the details on FDM, though! Cool! Keep up the good work!
I got a printer too last year, and I have already made some locomotive bodies with it, including one with a fully 3D printed tender, and I'm currently working on some LMS 40T hoppers among other things. It's amazing what is possible with these things!
Congrats on 100k subscribers!! I really love your channel, keep up the great work!!
Way to go Sam, I can see you're totally wrapped, and why not!! Something I've pondered on like you, but great to see how functional these are in the model railway space. Thanks very much for bringing this to our attention. Cheers, Greg, NZ PS, locally these are well over 500 quid, but still worth it.
Hey Sam - A few yrs ago I built my own 3D Printer - from a 'Part Work' Mag called "Build your own 3D Printer' by Eaglemoss - it was in 90 Parts (1 part perk week which meant it took 90 weeks to build + 20 Extra Mags for a Tool kit &spare parts!!!) & yes they show in the Mag how to use SketchUp - I also found it fun to do - I 3D Printed some holders for my SD Cards!!! 🙂🚂🚂🚂
If you want more details on your models i would recommend using a resin printer. A few weeks back i printed a n scale tender with fine rivets on it.
Hi Sam, I also have recently taken up 3D printing and have an Ender 3 V2 and use Tinkercad for design. I fully share and recognise your enthusiasm for this. It is a revelation when you find out what can be done quite quickly and easily. I mainly make stuff that is not available to buy, The main item being a simple conversion kit for the Triang Blue Pullman to turn a Parlour car into Kitchen car, it is not fully detailed but gives a good likeness. Good luck with your further endeavours, I shall watch with interest
Sam, I enjoy your videos, and this was one of your best. Thank you for sharing and opening up a world of possibilities for a very amateur model railroader and dedicated military miniatures fan. Cheers from Aotearoa New Zealand!
I've been making my own 3D-printed Roling stalk and locomotives for a while now. some notable ones I've made have been a remix of a J70 Toby, Tramway Luggage van (Elsie), and my (regular/mini) J50 pre-RWS Thomas. I also made my rolling stalk to have swappable tops adhered with magnets. I also recommend 7gm wights for the rolling stalk and locomotives you print if there's room. I put my wights underneath my rolling stalk where it not noticable. there are many sites where you can find ok to amazing Ho/Oo gauge models.
You are an inspiration to me and I can not wait to have my 3D printer, I already have a train car chassis ready to print, now I just gotta finish the body and then print the final product!
Use those buffers on a home built buffer stop. Print some gantries for overhead electric cables. Signal boxes etc. Rail sleepers. Turntable.
Great work Sam... I purchased a 3D printer a couple of years ago and I have never taken it out of the box and used it.
I designed a number of railway models using Sketchup. It's a great and easy to use.
I think it's time for me to step up to the plate and use the 3D printer. Cheers
You could add little recesses in the middle to add small magnets to help keep the bodies on the chasis if you want to make them interchangeable.
Great start. I'd love to try 3D printing but already have too many projects in the queue to take on another.
Fantastic, I can’t believe what you have created. Makes me want one of these. Please do more videos to show your progress. I don’t think I blinked once while watching it!
Thanks so much Tezza, I sure will do that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
That's incredible, Sam! I've heard a lot about 3D printing, but never seen one at work! Awesome!
Sam, you have truly "upped your game" as a model railway enthusiast with your 3D printing. I'm particularly impressed with your skill with the CAD software. I believe that you will learn (if you haven't already) that watching a model you built yourself move down the track is orders of magnitude more satisfying that doing the same with store-bought equipment. What next, airbrushing and lettering with decals? My sincere congratulations and Cheers from Wisconsin!
Really impressed. Now to make some model buildings, etc. Here a re a few ideas for you.
How about some retaining walls? A tunnel entrance? Maybe a workman's hut or water tower? Or snap together brick/stone walls similar to Linka kits so you can create your own buildings? Barrels, sacks, notice/poster boards? etc.
Hi Sam. I'm mightily impressed by how much you have achieved with a mid-range printer and basic freeware. I would love to see more videos in a similar vein.
Nice video, Sam. I've got a 3D printer myself, so I can definitely appreciate the enjoyment you get from watching it create.
I learned using sketchup that you can select a separate part of the model and maybe shift and select to select a single piece and you can right click and make it a component s it doesn’t glue together to the other pieces and you can select something right click and flip a lot a axis which is much nice than scaling it
Thank you for all the videos you've produced regarding the model railroad hobby -- I am learning A LOT. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to sharing your knowledge and for passing on tips and advice. Regarding the 3D printer -- can you, or anyone watching/reading this (I realize it's old video so may not get response) give advise regarding an affordable printer for a beginner which has the option to use a nozzle smaller than the 0.4mm size which seems to be standard for beginner level machines?
Thank you for your time and assistance.
Thank you. You are a positive happy individual and your enthusiasm is infectious. Great channel.
Have fun with the new printer Sam.
I’ve printed a few 1 plank wagons and used the metal wheels from AliExpress. They roll great, but I still need to work on the couplings. Instead I might print them with NEM pockets.
Good ball, that boy! After watching this you've almost got me convinced to take the plunge. Cheers.
well, that was interesting, i think your first venture into your own wagon building is good, i would make the box car the same height as the other ones you have so it fits in, also having the capability to switch bodies would help people with limited space, you could be onto a winner here, can not wait to see how they look if or when you paint them, well done.
A superb video Sam. I am at the "shall I buy a printer stage" and have been looking. Thingiverse has a Simplex by Dave Watkins available on it. Anyone who likes 16mm garden railways will know that Dave is a superb designer - and is very generous with his work for the enjoyment of anyone - I would love to see you have a go at that. I see the comments all wanting to have a go at you design - why not open a Thingiverse account (Free) and share the files. This is another great direction your channel is heading in - many thanks Sam.
Thanks a lot for sharing Garry - that does sound good, will have to check out some of his work!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Awesome video Sam The wagons are fabulous ... I have been thinking of purchasing a printer myself ... You may have sealed the deal ... More videos like this are fine by me The satisfaction acquired from preparation, engineering design and maintenance is the heart of the hobby Watching the train go round seems the smallest part of it all
Well you got yourself a great printer for a start and the Guider is a pretty sweet little printer. I have been 3D printer O gauge Australian NSWR for a couple of years amongst other hobbies. Now I just have to find time to get a layout into the garden, maybe when I retire one day.
Well done Sam, well done.
Cheers
Brad
3D printing boxcars has been something I’ve considered. The Ps-1 40ft Boxcar was used by every railroad in the US and the design is pretty simple.
When I was in college (nearly 30 years ago) this technology was only just getting going.
It was then called "Stereolithography" or "rapid prototyping" which kind of hints at why it was invented.
The product of Stereolithography is a physical model of a design which can then be produced at scale by much more efficient machines,
Once you "master" printing of goods rolling stock, try passenger coaches! 👍👍 or even (diesel) loco bodies that would fit an existing commercial loco chassis.
But not only train stock itself, you could design and create stuff like street/track side decoration - signs, semaphore signals, station platforms, signal boxes, engine sheds, turntables (?), level crossing gates (both classic 'gate' and boom-gate types), level crossing traffic signals (the sign post "stop on red signal" sign and light 'sockets' for fitting LED's for the signal lights)
Flashforge Adventurer is good. I've had mine for a couple of years and still works absolutely fine. The only major downside is that it doesn't really like other filaments than original Flashforge so keep that in mind Sam. Replacing the nozzle with the updated version makes no difference.
Next step - resin printer but that's far more complex. On the positive side the quality of print is second to none - as good as from a factory.
I have this EXACT 3D printer model! Great job, I’m considering using my Adventurer 3 for model trains too.
Very excited to see what projects are coming down the line !
No better man for it Sam !