I can't wait for him to get a resin printer. That will make these coaches/cars SOOO much nicer than the traditional FDM. FDM is great for larger parts, but smaller things like HO model trains will definitely benefit from the super high quality of a resin printer
haha - that's why I've decided not to go resin... you'll never see me again! xD Also it's the fumes - got no ventilation in my loft... and I don't want to die D: Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Well, I might buy me a resin printer... I'm linving in a city where you can do outdoor things on your balcony without hassle roughly from the end of April to the beginning of october, if it's not raining. So, a sturdy folding table, a 20 amps three poles electric cable and good weather forecasts, that's all I need, I already have the balconies, advantage to live at the last floor of a building. Just need to buy the resin printer now...
@@SamsTrains Honestly, the dunes are an overblown issue. I also don't have any ventilation and have never had an issue with them. Also, most of the printers are so small that you can stick them anywhere
Hey Sam I was curious have you ever thought of 3D Printing American rolling stock seeing as how it must be hard for you to buy that over there in the UK. It would also be a new challenge for you and your various 3D printers. Obviously they don't have to be super fancy but for the few American locos you have it would give them more things to pull. Just something to consider I think.
Great video Sam. I model in larger scales, so the bigger print volume this machine offers is something I need. Would be interested in a follow-up video on whether or not you are able to overcome the print quality issues you had.
I have a friend who has a batch of 3D printers - of varying quality - and he uses them all. The less refined ones for things like chassis/motor mounts and other hidden parts and a fine printer for details and rolling stock bodies.
Cracking review as always and glad you’re someone who still remains steadfastly objective, let’s face it, the reach of the channel is no coincidence 👍 I’ve just ordered a Creality CR-200b, although 200mm^3 isn’t massive, it should be fine for most things I do but the key thing with the enclosure is that it needs to live in my shed workshop where there’s tonnes of wood dust when I’ve been making guitars and things, and the temp varies far more wildly than an indoor environment. I’ve got an anycubic photon S which I’ve yet to even try as since moving house this year, I’ve not even found my personal laptop yet. Obviously the detail the resin should be able to achieve ought to be fantastic, but as you know they’re nowhere near as easy to manage with nasty liquids, cleaning, UV curing… the other issue with resin is some of the items I’ve bought for the railways have been rather warped even from recognised hobby manufacturers rather than home-based DIYers, so thinking about your loco chassis on your recent project, resin I could never trust not to banana…
Great video. Really helpful. I have the Mingda auto leveling version on order but the supply chain is slow. Patience is a virtue (or so I am told.) LOL
Since this is so big, I'm expecting you to design an 0 gauge wagon sometime soon. Of course you may need to use parts like slaters wheels and sprung buffers, and some sort of sprung 3-link couplings, but you can do the majority of the wagon with the printer. Also, why not print some buildings like a signal box or a footbridge?
The print are is still not that big. It is still only 260mm x 200mm x 200mm. It just takes up a fair bit of room due to the case :). It would struggle with anything other than just really small wagons on 0 gauge.
If you are struggling to remove a print try flexing the plate centre down instead of up. I highly recommend a Prusa for your next printer to test... the features make them effortless to operate just click and forget (I also can crank my Mk3s up to 130-150% speed without any great loss of detail on my 1/14 models)
Hi Sam, had a thought this morning for your channel. I’ve been so impressed by the modelling in several channels, “Chandwell”, “Tony North Eastern” and “Bexhill West” to name a few. It would be nice to see your channel reaching out to various modellers, and you making videos on various model railways and railway modellers. Just a thought. (I also prefer a skirt !). Best Wishes Sam 🙏
Jerk control may not be needed, especially if the printer is running Marlin 2.0 variants. Merlin 2.0 does Junction Deviation control in firmware, which makes legacy jerk control redundant. The babystepping controls and fan control are more common than you think, especially in Marlin firmware variants. I still think I will stick with my Ender 5 though. The Cura profile for the Ender 5 is pretty close to spot on out of the box. Question: What firmware does this printer run?
Gotta say man, I love your passion for this hobby even though I don't always understand the terminology. An advice for looking into beginning rolling stock? Wagons/Trucks in particular.
haha yeah sorry - it's all new to me too... maybe I'm too excited with all the jargon! Sure - I have a video that shows exactly how to design a basic wagon body! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
£369 is not a bad price for the QUDI Tech iMates FDM which appears to be the smaller version of the printer reviewed here, considering the forthcoming Hornby Azuma is coming in at £434.49. It is hard to believe Hornby's Azuma price is justified, considering all that you get with a 3D printer! Maybe the smaller version of this printer is the one you want? There is an even smaller one at £249, the cost of a Hornby Loco these days. I don't know how you managed to get that thing up into your loft without killing yourself! Thanks for uploading.
When you say Primer, do you mean filler Primer or just primer? I have an Ender 3 and it does what I want of it within the limits that it has. my lasted model is of a derelict Stone Cottage. apart from some light stringing it has printed a great print. I do have to thank Mike's Railways for the design. Martin. (Thailand)
That should do a much nicer job printing PETG and ABS than your other printer. The resin printer fumes aren't that bad especially if you use Eco resin. I use one in an office without ventilation. I don't stay in there while it's printing though. Worst part of resin printing is the washing and curing but if you get one of those wash/cure stations it's ok.
Are there plans to downlod and buy in all scales? Also a short how to, on doing your own waggon/loco /building etc would be really usefull along with the tools /accessories needed :)
This printer looks really good. I think a really good comparison would be having all 3 printers printing the same thing and compare the outcomes of that. Can't wait to see what other 3d printing adventures you have! Editory note: wrote this before the frame comparison so oops, my bad
Got bit by the 3d printing bug too I see, the printers tend to multiply lol. On a side note have you ever heard of the OS railway? It's a 1/32 scale fully 3d printable model rail road. Great video Sam enjoy all you can create.
Hey Sam, have you ever considered trying to print with SLA resin printers? The Elegoo Mars Pro is pretty good and cheap, only costing about $200 or about £145
A bit disappointed I have the 2018 model Qidi tech 1 dual extruder, It seems to have some better features. Like being able to change some sittings while in use, like extruder and print bed temp. As it is enclosed it is good for ABS printing and with that you can smooth your prints with something called Acetone vapor smoothing. A lot of people talk about resin printers but I find they have really small beds and so can't make very big models. Was thinking of updating mine but not sure with this one as only single extruder and not able to change settings during printing. Really happy with my old one great prints and can't say had much problems with ghosting. You should look in to using ABS and acetone vapor smoothing (I know your in quite a small space in the loft, but the vapours shouldn't be that bad).
Nice video! How come British model trains in oo use hook and loop couplers instead of prototypically accurate ones? Over here in the USA all our stuff comes with scale knuckle couplers
Cause chains are way to bloody small in oo gauge for regular use And to add: if you want accurate freight trains using something like the 9f the wagons will get too heavy for one of the couplings to handle and it will snap
Historical reasons. Everything has to be backwards compatible. At least with NEM pockets you can fit the coupling of your choice. Knuckle couplers aren't prototypical for most British trains before 1960ish. The only railway that used knuckle couplers before that was the LNER afaik.
Interesting review! That really is a big device if it entirely fills the space between two roof trusses in your loft - and a somewhat daunting price. It will be interesting to see what the 0.2 mm extruder can do
Thanks a lot! Yeah it sure is a huge device, lol! It's great to have the extra build volume, but it's definitely a lot of space to giveup! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Loved the video! If you want to change the temperature you can open the gcode file using notepad as a .txt and the temperatures should be obvious near the top of the gcode
Great, comparing a more 'expensive' one, although it remains perspective perhaps. For what you get, that's really impressive for an affordable price. This is of course 3D printing, not some hamburger lol. Resin printing for us though. The visible printing layers do really bug me intensely. Resin printing does resolve that one. Wouldn't worry about fumes too much; a good one is enclosed as well with an internal vent. Great review Sam. Thank you again :)
I just have seen resin printers around 300 € apiece, they have enclosed printing sections sealed by silicon joints. I think I will go direct to resin for my first 3D printer.
Great informative Video, Sam. Well Done Sir..! Loved your Honest feedback. Where the Temptation to 'Big it Up..!' As you were given it to 'Trial' or 'Review' would be Rather Large or Pressing. When Given something we or I tend to Look favourably upon it..! ( not that, I am given much to Review..!) Cheers kim.😎
You definitely need a resin printer, the quality will amaze you if you think these results look good. For the Anycubic photo you can buy an extraction fan and tube if you're worried about fumes.
I don't think that the printer itself matters, I've been printing on my incredibly cheap ender 3 and the print quality is alright, not too bad, not too good but when you drown the print in gap filler it suddenly becomes a factory quality model.
Every since you got a 3D Printer. I have been thinking Sam, Sam, Sam please Make a Copy of the 'Hornby Turbo Car from the Battle space range..!!' You have played with a Propeller driven wagon in the Past. Please, if Not Bound by Copyright make a 'Sams Trains version..!!' If you can, I maybe tempted into the world of 3D printing myself. Although my Luddite tendencies my be a Problem..! Cheers kim in Downunder land..!! 😎
"I always print with a skirt." When I heard that I thought you were trying to tell us something like Michael Palin when he breaks into the lumber jack song. lol: ua-cam.com/video/FshU58nI0Ts/v-deo.html
I have to laugh (in a good) way that you remark how expensive this is (in the US it is $500 on Amazon and the smaller version is $350 US). I can recall first seeing 3D printers at a Makers Fairs about 15 years ago at a local college here in California. They were sold as a kit of parts you had to put together from scratch for well over $1,500 and ready-made ones could be over $2,500 to $5.000 with “pro” versions in the 10s of thousands. The “box” of the printer was made of thin plywood! Don’t laugh… The original Apple computer Jobs and Woz made was also wood! It is amazing how inexpensive and great quality these have become.
I prefer the Mingda - any important job still gets done on that for me... hope it lasts though... as it's not such a good quality machine! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I know the pressures of filming are great so no hate here from me but please don’t file down your new printer, all other reviewers managed to get those tubes in ok also read the base, read the sides, read the manual. The glue stick isn’t for the build plate top, it’s two sided, regular on top in white and metal underneath, use the glue on the metal side when printing abs or tpu, etc. your not meant to use the magnetic sides and top for PLA they’re for ABS, etc. I’d love to see what you can do with that fine nozzle/extruder.
No Steve, the instructions were followed to the letter, and the filament feed tube did not fit due to moulding issues in the plastic - I wouldn't have modified it if not necessary... unfortunately the change is permanent, but thanks for trying to help! The filament feeder is a terrible design anyway - bad idea to have the filament pull through such sharp angles - so I don't use it any more. There's no reason why you can't print PLA with the sides/top fitted... many machines are enclosed with no option of removing the sides... I've been printing with this machine for 6 months with absolutely no problems. As for the glue stick - I didn't even use it, as it was obviously unnecessary... but thanks for the tip anyway! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam great video as usual. Sam you do not need to say an exclaimer every time you get a item to review that you did not buy. You I feel have impeccable honesty in your reviews. I buy my model trains after I watch you. I hope you are not going into the manufacturing business ha ha ha have a good day.
Thanks so much Louis - I just figure it doesn't hurt to say it, and then nobody can try to say I mislead them (some people like to take that approach, so belts and braces!!) Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The technology in this printer seems very 'last generation' which might be ok if it was £200, but at near £500 you can get something way better for significantly less money.. I am guessing you are paying a fair bit for the enclosure,......personally I would prefer the money spent on auto bed levelling and more up to date firmware features.
Wait for it….. Wait for it…… Hold on…. Yep there we go in an unexpected twist Hornby has just announced they too are joining the race with there brand new just tooled in half an hour but costs a fortune version!
@@joshmason6177 there is one good thing though, the Dapol wagons they are doing are the first made in the UK rolling stock since Hornby left margate in the 1990's. I actually have purchased one from Rails of Sheffield and from what I can see these wagons are well detailed but they don't come with the couplings, but that's not a big issue as a pack of ten NEM couplings isn't a lot of money.
Thanks for the review, interesting to see how the Minden machine seem to produce a wagon underframe with less pronounced and close to acceptable layering. I wonder if you would please accept a challenge to see what is the smoothest model you can 3D print? Most appreciated. This is could be a great time saving advantage for us, scratch builders!
It's a pleasure Bill - yes that Mingda definitely produced the best results at the same settings! That'd be a good challenge, if I reduced the layer height! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I think we can safely say if your prepared to do abit to trial and error. Which is what 3D printing is about.....you dnt have to waste your money on a stupidly expensive machine......just keep it in a stable draft free environment .
Say goodbye to Sam guys, he's fallen down the 3D printing hole. Once he gets onto resin printing he will never be seen again XD
I can't wait for him to get a resin printer. That will make these coaches/cars SOOO much nicer than the traditional FDM. FDM is great for larger parts, but smaller things like HO model trains will definitely benefit from the super high quality of a resin printer
haha - that's why I've decided not to go resin... you'll never see me again! xD
Also it's the fumes - got no ventilation in my loft... and I don't want to die D:
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Well, I might buy me a resin printer... I'm linving in a city where you can do outdoor things on your balcony without hassle roughly from the end of April to the beginning of october, if it's not raining. So, a sturdy folding table, a 20 amps three poles electric cable and good weather forecasts, that's all I need, I already have the balconies, advantage to live at the last floor of a building. Just need to buy the resin printer now...
@@SamsTrains Honestly, the dunes are an overblown issue. I also don't have any ventilation and have never had an issue with them. Also, most of the printers are so small that you can stick them anywhere
@@OlivierGabin If you are serious, check your air temps as well - the easily available resins are designed to work best at normal room temperatures.
You could try to create some 'O' gauge wagons, or a brakevan with it to see how it copes with larger models.
@@nthechocolatefactory372 you do realise he was suggesting not demanding Sam to do as he say nor is he pointing out how Sam should live his life
@@nthechocolatefactory372 he said could try
@@nthechocolatefactory372 i simply pointing out something also you do realise am also a minor 16 to be precise so you stop being the rude one
@@nthechocolatefactory372 and?
@@nthechocolatefactory372 your the one being rude mate also get reported
Hey Sam I was curious have you ever thought of 3D Printing American rolling stock seeing as how it must be hard for you to buy that over there in the UK. It would also be a new challenge for you and your various 3D printers. Obviously they don't have to be super fancy but for the few American locos you have it would give them more things to pull. Just something to consider I think.
I've been thinking about upgrading my 3D printer! Thanks for sharing your experience with this one, Sam!
Awesome! This does a pretty good job... but for £200 (think £250 now?) the Mingda still does better!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great video Sam. I model in larger scales, so the bigger print volume this machine offers is something I need. Would be interested in a follow-up video on whether or not you are able to overcome the print quality issues you had.
you should start making building for your layout. raily stations and platforms as well as fences. good luck
I totally should! When I have time, I might try that... got to say though, I prefer making locos/coaches!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thanks. Especially the part of the slicer settings are interesting for me.
Sam's Trains has gone from a You tube review channel to a full blown production company all from a loft..impressive! 🤙
It's gotten significantly cooler here. A bit early for Christmas haha.
haha it has here too!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I have a friend who has a batch of 3D printers - of varying quality - and he uses them all. The less refined ones for things like chassis/motor mounts and other hidden parts and a fine printer for details and rolling stock bodies.
Cracking review as always and glad you’re someone who still remains steadfastly objective, let’s face it, the reach of the channel is no coincidence 👍
I’ve just ordered a Creality CR-200b, although 200mm^3 isn’t massive, it should be fine for most things I do but the key thing with the enclosure is that it needs to live in my shed workshop where there’s tonnes of wood dust when I’ve been making guitars and things, and the temp varies far more wildly than an indoor environment. I’ve got an anycubic photon S which I’ve yet to even try as since moving house this year, I’ve not even found my personal laptop yet. Obviously the detail the resin should be able to achieve ought to be fantastic, but as you know they’re nowhere near as easy to manage with nasty liquids, cleaning, UV curing… the other issue with resin is some of the items I’ve bought for the railways have been rather warped even from recognised hobby manufacturers rather than home-based DIYers, so thinking about your loco chassis on your recent project, resin I could never trust not to banana…
Sam, have you considered building a wagon kit, like one of the Parkside kits? Might be an interesting comparison to the ready to run models.
Now you got a big 3D printer can you start making O gauge locomotives and Rolling stock
Great video. Really helpful. I have the Mingda auto leveling version on order but the supply chain is slow. Patience is a virtue (or so I am told.) LOL
Since this is so big, I'm expecting you to design an 0 gauge wagon sometime soon. Of course you may need to use parts like slaters wheels and sprung buffers, and some sort of sprung 3-link couplings, but you can do the majority of the wagon with the printer.
Also, why not print some buildings like a signal box or a footbridge?
The print are is still not that big. It is still only 260mm x 200mm x 200mm. It just takes up a fair bit of room due to the case :).
It would struggle with anything other than just really small wagons on 0 gauge.
If you are struggling to remove a print try flexing the plate centre down instead of up.
I highly recommend a Prusa for your next printer to test... the features make them effortless to operate just click and forget (I also can crank my Mk3s up to 130-150% speed without any great loss of detail on my 1/14 models)
Hi Sam, had a thought this morning for your channel. I’ve been so impressed by the modelling in several channels, “Chandwell”, “Tony North Eastern” and “Bexhill West” to name a few. It would be nice to see your channel reaching out to various modellers, and you making videos on various model railways and railway modellers. Just a thought. (I also prefer a skirt !). Best Wishes Sam 🙏
With all these wagons. You might need a custom freight loco to handle them because the only other one is a passenger loco
nice now you have a bunch of 3d printers so you can have 1 create the frame the other one make couplings and the last 1 make the shell of the car
Yay! Now you can print with ABS more easily. Give a spool a try and just keep in mind the smell. The feeling/durability of ABS is amazing.
Jerk control may not be needed, especially if the printer is running Marlin 2.0 variants. Merlin 2.0 does Junction Deviation control in firmware, which makes legacy jerk control redundant. The babystepping controls and fan control are more common than you think, especially in Marlin firmware variants. I still think I will stick with my Ender 5 though. The Cura profile for the Ender 5 is pretty close to spot on out of the box.
Question: What firmware does this printer run?
Gotta say man, I love your passion for this hobby even though I don't always understand the terminology.
An advice for looking into beginning rolling stock? Wagons/Trucks in particular.
haha yeah sorry - it's all new to me too... maybe I'm too excited with all the jargon!
Sure - I have a video that shows exactly how to design a basic wagon body! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Could you attempt a 3d printed railcar, like a single diesel unit like a class 121
Sam like the new upload found it very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
£369 is not a bad price for the QUDI Tech iMates FDM which appears to be the smaller version of the printer reviewed here, considering the forthcoming Hornby Azuma is coming in at £434.49. It is hard to believe Hornby's Azuma price is justified, considering all that you get with a 3D printer! Maybe the smaller version of this printer is the one you want? There is an even smaller one at £249, the cost of a Hornby Loco these days. I don't know how you managed to get that thing up into your loft without killing yourself! Thanks for uploading.
Sam did you see the painted samples of the Ffestiniog Small England?
I certainly did - looks lovely - but very expensive in my opinion!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I pre ordered “Princess” … that’s what they call me at work !!!
When you say Primer, do you mean filler Primer or just primer? I have an Ender 3 and it does what I want of it within the limits that it has. my lasted model is of a derelict Stone Cottage. apart from some light stringing it has printed a great print. I do have to thank Mike's Railways for the design. Martin. (Thailand)
Screw Diver? Is that for when you drop screws on the floor?
Lovely Video Mr Warwell!
I treated myself to some of Uncle Fredrikson's Amazing Balancing Coaches for christmas!
haha thank you so much - did you get them okay? :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Yes I did
That should do a much nicer job printing PETG and ABS than your other printer.
The resin printer fumes aren't that bad especially if you use Eco resin.
I use one in an office without ventilation. I don't stay in there while it's printing though.
Worst part of resin printing is the washing and curing but if you get one of those wash/cure stations it's ok.
Are there plans to downlod and buy in all scales? Also a short how to, on doing your own waggon/loco /building etc would be really usefull along with the tools /accessories needed :)
possibly a decent book on the subject , recomended by you.. :)
This printer looks really good. I think a really good comparison would be having all 3 printers printing the same thing and compare the outcomes of that. Can't wait to see what other 3d printing adventures you have!
Editory note: wrote this before the frame comparison so oops, my bad
Look to going over to resin printing for the extreme detail. It rivals injection molding. I run an AnyCubic Photon Mono X, terrific quality.
I really want to try it - but it's messy and fumy... so my current space is no good :(
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Got bit by the 3d printing bug too I see, the printers tend to multiply lol. On a side note have you ever heard of the OS railway? It's a 1/32 scale fully 3d printable model rail road. Great video Sam enjoy all you can create.
How are able to pay for oo model trains, o model trains, three 3d printers and trains simulator?
Also if you still have some money, get an air purifier. No ventilation with 3 3d printers sounds like heck.
That even bigger then you last 3d printer you show off and I really enjoy thresday video
haha yeah - it's huge isn't it?! Glad to hear that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hey Sam, have you ever considered trying to print with SLA resin printers? The Elegoo Mars Pro is pretty good and cheap, only costing about $200 or about £145
Hi sam I hope you're ok
Im thinking about starting 3d printing these videos are helpful to get an idea of what to do
You could totally use the stringing as cobwebs and make something for Halloween.
A bit disappointed I have the 2018 model Qidi tech 1 dual extruder, It seems to have some better features. Like being able to change some sittings while in use, like extruder and print bed temp. As it is enclosed it is good for ABS printing and with that you can smooth your prints with something called Acetone vapor smoothing. A lot of people talk about resin printers but I find they have really small beds and so can't make very big models. Was thinking of updating mine but not sure with this one as only single extruder and not able to change settings during printing. Really happy with my old one great prints and can't say had much problems with ghosting. You should look in to using ABS and acetone vapor smoothing (I know your in quite a small space in the loft, but the vapours shouldn't be that bad).
"Please read the guide" written in the guide is next level
Very interesting video today Sam glad your enjoying the 3D printing because am enjoying the videos
The resin printers on other sites do not have lines all over them.
Where is BR class 28, I am still waiting.
Nice video! How come British model trains in oo use hook and loop couplers instead of prototypically accurate ones? Over here in the USA all our stuff comes with scale knuckle couplers
Cause chains are way to bloody small in oo gauge for regular use
And to add:
if you want accurate freight trains using something like the 9f the wagons will get too heavy for one of the couplings to handle and it will snap
Historical reasons. Everything has to be backwards compatible. At least with NEM pockets you can fit the coupling of your choice. Knuckle couplers aren't prototypical for most British trains before 1960ish. The only railway that used knuckle couplers before that was the LNER afaik.
To those who replied, thanks for the clarification
Have you tried letting the machine handle jerk and acceleration? The maker might have good settings in firmware.
Does the finished product have a bad resin smell that lasts? I read rhat this is a problem. Do enjoy train videos!
Nope - this isn't a resin printer - I use PLA and it's odourless!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
If this printer has a bigger bed. You could try something bigger like a Mk1 Coach or even a Diesel Locomotive.
Whats a diesel? I only know
*w e a s a l*
Now you have 3 3D printers that's going to be quite useful
Interesting review! That really is a big device if it entirely fills the space between two roof trusses in your loft - and a somewhat daunting price. It will be interesting to see what the 0.2 mm extruder can do
Thanks a lot! Yeah it sure is a huge device, lol! It's great to have the extra build volume, but it's definitely a lot of space to giveup!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I might have to pick it up. It sounds like a beast.
You should review a prusa mk4 and or a bambu labs printer p1s x1c or a1
Loved the video! If you want to change the temperature you can open the gcode file using notepad as a .txt and the temperatures should be obvious near the top of the gcode
That's very useful to know - literally never tried opening a gcode in notepad! D:
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains glad I could give you an idea 😁. I really love your 3D printing videos! I can't wait to see what you do next!
@@SamsTrains Yes. reading and editing gcode is not that difficult. A lot of it is obvious in meaning and there are manuals of of gcode online.
Hmm that's a nice name for a tech company, Qidi means inspiration or something like that in Chinese if I am correct.
I didn't know what it meant - very cool! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Does SketchUp work on this new printer?
Great, comparing a more 'expensive' one, although it remains perspective perhaps. For what you get, that's really impressive for an affordable price. This is of course 3D printing, not some hamburger lol. Resin printing for us though. The visible printing layers do really bug me intensely. Resin printing does resolve that one. Wouldn't worry about fumes too much; a good one is enclosed as well with an internal vent. Great review Sam. Thank you again :)
I just have seen resin printers around 300 € apiece, they have enclosed printing sections sealed by silicon joints. I think I will go direct to resin for my first 3D printer.
@@OlivierGabin Great, we've seen a demo on the YT channel 'Märklingofsweden'. 300 € a piece is a bargain.
Very good - but how many 3-D Printers do you need Sam??? 🤔😉🚂🚂🚂
Great informative Video, Sam. Well Done Sir..!
Loved your Honest feedback. Where the Temptation to 'Big it Up..!' As you were given it to 'Trial' or 'Review' would be Rather Large or Pressing.
When Given something we or I tend to Look favourably upon it..! ( not that, I am given much to Review..!)
Cheers kim.😎
Maybe modern bigger wagons is the next step
so a little thing i should say some one can correct me if im wrong but i believe you do have to sand them down with sandpaper
You definitely need a resin printer, the quality will amaze you if you think these results look good. For the Anycubic photo you can buy an extraction fan and tube if you're worried about fumes.
Sam is now a train and 3D printer review channel
haha I guess it has turned into that hasn't it?! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Welcome to Sam's Printers
I wish I had a 3D printer. How did you buy them aswell!
I bought mine on Amazon... and I've never looked back! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I don't think that the printer itself matters, I've been printing on my incredibly cheap ender 3 and the print quality is alright, not too bad, not too good but when you drown the print in gap filler it suddenly becomes a factory quality model.
I think you could be right - like I say, the cheapest of my 3 printers makes *by far* the best models!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
just question are you going to do layout
Hopefully one day! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Wow great work sam
Cheers- Jasper & Willow
Thanks so much guys! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
So, we could use a proper review of the flashforge Sam :)
Now you can do O gauge models
Every since you got a 3D Printer.
I have been thinking Sam, Sam, Sam please Make a Copy of the 'Hornby Turbo Car from the Battle space range..!!'
You have played with a Propeller driven wagon in the Past.
Please, if Not Bound by Copyright make a 'Sams Trains version..!!'
If you can, I maybe tempted into the world of 3D printing myself. Although my Luddite tendencies my be a Problem..!
Cheers kim in Downunder land..!! 😎
"I always print with a skirt."
When I heard that I thought you were trying to tell us something like Michael Palin when he breaks into the lumber jack song. lol:
ua-cam.com/video/FshU58nI0Ts/v-deo.html
Sam how's the weather in Derbyshire?
It's a bit chilly now!! How about you? :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Is this site foe model railways or 3d printers
To prevent lines just print flat surface flat or make panels flat. Building upside down - lines building flat like a pancake - no lines.
I have to laugh (in a good) way that you remark how expensive this is (in the US it is $500 on Amazon and the smaller version is $350 US). I can recall first seeing 3D printers at a Makers Fairs about 15 years ago at a local college here in California. They were sold as a kit of parts you had to put together from scratch for well over $1,500 and ready-made ones could be over $2,500 to $5.000 with “pro” versions in the 10s of thousands. The “box” of the printer was made of thin plywood! Don’t laugh… The original Apple computer Jobs and Woz made was also wood!
It is amazing how inexpensive and great quality these have become.
Three printers
Is it time for a infrastructure update? The crane looks like it could be upgraded.
Asking for a friend
haha absolutely - that thought crossed my mind too! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam wow you got another 3D printer? Nice to see you doing what you enjoy these days, but please still make RTR model train videos XD.
haha yeah - this really is what I enjoy! But of course - I sure will be doing! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Where I live yesterday it was 50 today it is 33 degrees fearenite
Oh wow!!
I think myself i prefer your second printer myself not because it's the cheapest but because the prints look better dave
I prefer the Mingda - any important job still gets done on that for me... hope it lasts though... as it's not such a good quality machine!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hello Sam, another one?
And what’s your favorite diesel you have
Sincerely, Me
haha yeah another one! I think it might be the Bachmann peak for me? :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam: bring up the printer
The people in the town WHAT THE
good vid sam keep up the good vid thanks lee
Thanks so much lee! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'd like to see a 3D printed diesel locomotive
I would too! That's something I need to try! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I know the pressures of filming are great so no hate here from me but please don’t file down your new printer, all other reviewers managed to get those tubes in ok also read the base, read the sides, read the manual. The glue stick isn’t for the build plate top, it’s two sided, regular on top in white and metal underneath, use the glue on the metal side when printing abs or tpu, etc. your not meant to use the magnetic sides and top for PLA they’re for ABS, etc. I’d love to see what you can do with that fine nozzle/extruder.
No Steve, the instructions were followed to the letter, and the filament feed tube did not fit due to moulding issues in the plastic - I wouldn't have modified it if not necessary... unfortunately the change is permanent, but thanks for trying to help! The filament feeder is a terrible design anyway - bad idea to have the filament pull through such sharp angles - so I don't use it any more. There's no reason why you can't print PLA with the sides/top fitted... many machines are enclosed with no option of removing the sides... I've been printing with this machine for 6 months with absolutely no problems. As for the glue stick - I didn't even use it, as it was obviously unnecessary... but thanks for the tip anyway!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hmm. So is that a 'no' on proper bearings, then? :D
i have a Dremel 3d printer er and thats as good as yours
Sam great video as usual. Sam you do not need to say an exclaimer every time you get a item to review that you did not buy. You I feel have impeccable honesty in your reviews. I buy my model trains after I watch you. I hope you are not going into the manufacturing business ha ha ha have a good day.
Thanks so much Louis - I just figure it doesn't hurt to say it, and then nobody can try to say I mislead them (some people like to take that approach, so belts and braces!!)
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
"exclaimer"? I think you mean "disclaimer".
The technology in this printer seems very 'last generation' which might be ok if it was £200, but at near £500 you can get something way better for significantly less money.. I am guessing you are paying a fair bit for the enclosure,......personally I would prefer the money spent on auto bed levelling and more up to date firmware features.
So amazing review
Thanks so much Justin! :D
Hey Sam you've got to be careful now as you are in direct competition with Dapol as they are 3D printing special commission wagons in the UK now
Wait for it….. Wait for it…… Hold on…. Yep there we go in an unexpected twist Hornby has just announced they too are joining the race with there brand new just tooled in half an hour but costs a fortune version!
@@joshmason6177 there is one good thing though, the Dapol wagons they are doing are the first made in the UK rolling stock since Hornby left margate in the 1990's. I actually have purchased one from Rails of Sheffield and from what I can see these wagons are well detailed but they don't come with the couplings, but that's not a big issue as a pack of ten NEM couplings isn't a lot of money.
the I mates would make a good 3d printer to make a whole scale building/structure
Ooops..! 'Tri-ang/Hornby Battle space Turbo car.'
Apologises 'Tri-ang lovers..!'
😎
The better machine doesn't always me better quality.
Thanks for the review, interesting to see how the Minden machine seem to produce a wagon underframe with less pronounced and close to acceptable layering. I wonder if you would please accept a challenge to see what is the smoothest model you can 3D print? Most appreciated. This is could be a great time saving advantage for us, scratch builders!
It's a pleasure Bill - yes that Mingda definitely produced the best results at the same settings! That'd be a good challenge, if I reduced the layer height!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Thank you for considering it most appreciated!
I think we can safely say if your prepared to do abit to trial and error. Which is what 3D printing is about.....you dnt have to waste your money on a stupidly expensive machine......just keep it in a stable draft free environment .
Oh yeah absolutely... with a bit of experimenting, every printer I've tried has been completely useable! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hola buenas tardes excelente video abrazo grande
Another 3D printer!? Blimey it really has taken over your soul lol. You could make a business out of this 😂
haha I think 3 has to be my limit unfortunately... had an offer for a 4th but I don't have anywhere to put it :(
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Any more and you won't be able to get in to your loft because of all the 3D printers lol.
Sam, have you ever considered resin? Apparently resin doesn't course as severe ridging/layering as plastic.
Now 3d print yourself
Now there's an idea... could use an extra pair of hands! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Another 3D printer how many more are you going to be getting?
The models that you made look alright to me.
I think 3 has to be the limit, no more room! Yes they look very good, but not as good as on the Mingda!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)