There is. I'm using the factory Mazda gasket just of course a new one, but yeah just the factory one. I was thinking about getting a heat resistant one but I figured this will work for now.
How about the iacv? I know some people run that to get it running a bit better along with the tps.. I'm looking into this kind of setup myself and trying to get all the j for I can as there is little to none info on this
So far I'm not too terribly worried about doing an IAC on it, mainly because this is my track car, right now just worried about getting the vacuum leaks taken care of. And there is a way on this specific kit where to can drill and tap the bottom dimples of the manifold to add lines for IAC but will have to change valves. Maybe like a fast idle valve.
I have oversized 11:1 compression pistons, the head was decked .004 and the block was decked .003. So with all of that it's 11.5:1 compression ratio, and technically 1888cc engine which rounds up to 1.9L. Where before it was 1835cc which they round down to 1.8L.
Just installed the same kit with the same result, high idle and not enough vacuum to get a good MAP signal for Megasquirt.. Super interested to hear how/if you were able to resolve this.
I had to get a spring on the end of the linkage to help fully close the throttle bodies, I also had to get a synchrometer and close the idle air screws. The MAP sensor will still only read, when driving, like 70-50kpa. So with that in mind I have to tune in ITB mode and tune the switchpoint tables. ITB mode uses map for low RPM low load, while at high RPM hight load it uses TPS to add fuel. So the switchpoint table changes how the transition is when switching from MAP to TPS determining how much fuel to add based on load. Which means you have to drive and tune. Haha
@@ivgarage Really appreciate the follow up here. I have done the same with the idle air and throttle plates, both fully closed. I have also come to the same conclusion with the manifold air pressure, its never going to go as low as it did with the factory intake. I was hoping to get the car up and running on TPS only but it seems like my ignition and probably the fueling tables are way off. After redoing the base timing on the car, its still idling at 2K rpm. With any throttle it starts to run super rough, stall, and backfire through the intake. Any chance that you have a map/tune that you might be willing to share? Thanks again!
@@therobertshouse oddly enough I had similar issues with backfiring through the intake, I had to increase my cranking pulse, priming pulse, and after start enrichment to get it to start up properly. I'm running E-85 so my tables will be close to 30% more than if you're running 91, but I'm also in Colorado, so my air intake isn't nearly as much as if I were at or near sea level. If you give me your email I'll gladly send over my tune file to you so you can go over it. Of course I'm a bit busy today so probably when I get home tonight I can.
@@ivgarage Thanks for the details on on startup, in my case, the backfiring seems to be timing related, car is starting up no problem, but again is idling high. Understood on all of the differences with your setup and locale, reviewing your map could be super helpful, particularly with regards to timing. I have DM'd you at the email that you have here on your "About" tab for the channel. No rush!
I personally don't have any experience, I've definitely seen many people use them though, you will need some sort of adapter to make them fit of course. If you're trying to ITB a Miata, go on to the Facebook Miata MX-5 ITB page, sometimes people are selling them for cheaper
heyhey nice vid ;) so about the throttle position sensor and this 4 wires oem on 1.8 , you just ignored the WOT signal right? and about the pigtail you are soldering your wires with(for the tps) , can we just directly solder the wires together, i mean, can it work just soldering and bypassing the connectors and pigtail? (i have a kit but no pigtails, so i am asking 😃)
Thank you! So the 3 wire TPS I used has just power, ground and signal, wot is controlled by the Megasquirt internally when it sees the TPS % over 90% or whatever I set it to. The by passing it and connecting the wires right in to the circuit without the connector will work just fine, just makes for easier removal so you don't have to remove the sensor every time.
![How NOT to Build a Miata - 2L ITB Miata Build [EP.1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jtd-UxkmsTo/mqdefault.jpg)
looking into purchasing this kit soon and this video has been super helpful. Thanks for the upload!
Glad it could help!
Is there a gasket between the ITB's and head? What are you running if there is. Idk if I missed it but it didn't look like there was a gasket
There is. I'm using the factory Mazda gasket just of course a new one, but yeah just the factory one. I was thinking about getting a heat resistant one but I figured this will work for now.
itb gang
Heck yeah man!
How about the iacv? I know some people run that to get it running a bit better along with the tps.. I'm looking into this kind of setup myself and trying to get all the j for I can as there is little to none info on this
So far I'm not too terribly worried about doing an IAC on it, mainly because this is my track car, right now just worried about getting the vacuum leaks taken care of. And there is a way on this specific kit where to can drill and tap the bottom dimples of the manifold to add lines for IAC but will have to change valves. Maybe like a fast idle valve.
1.9 L. What's done to the engine?
I have oversized 11:1 compression pistons, the head was decked .004 and the block was decked .003. So with all of that it's 11.5:1 compression ratio, and technically 1888cc engine which rounds up to 1.9L. Where before it was 1835cc which they round down to 1.8L.
Just installed the same kit with the same result, high idle and not enough vacuum to get a good MAP signal for Megasquirt.. Super interested to hear how/if you were able to resolve this.
I had to get a spring on the end of the linkage to help fully close the throttle bodies, I also had to get a synchrometer and close the idle air screws. The MAP sensor will still only read, when driving, like 70-50kpa. So with that in mind I have to tune in ITB mode and tune the switchpoint tables. ITB mode uses map for low RPM low load, while at high RPM hight load it uses TPS to add fuel. So the switchpoint table changes how the transition is when switching from MAP to TPS determining how much fuel to add based on load. Which means you have to drive and tune. Haha
@@ivgarage Really appreciate the follow up here. I have done the same with the idle air and throttle plates, both fully closed. I have also come to the same conclusion with the manifold air pressure, its never going to go as low as it did with the factory intake. I was hoping to get the car up and running on TPS only but it seems like my ignition and probably the fueling tables are way off. After redoing the base timing on the car, its still idling at 2K rpm. With any throttle it starts to run super rough, stall, and backfire through the intake. Any chance that you have a map/tune that you might be willing to share? Thanks again!
@@therobertshouse oddly enough I had similar issues with backfiring through the intake, I had to increase my cranking pulse, priming pulse, and after start enrichment to get it to start up properly. I'm running E-85 so my tables will be close to 30% more than if you're running 91, but I'm also in Colorado, so my air intake isn't nearly as much as if I were at or near sea level. If you give me your email I'll gladly send over my tune file to you so you can go over it. Of course I'm a bit busy today so probably when I get home tonight I can.
@@ivgarage Thanks for the details on on startup, in my case, the backfiring seems to be timing related, car is starting up no problem, but again is idling high. Understood on all of the differences with your setup and locale, reviewing your map could be super helpful, particularly with regards to timing. I have DM'd you at the email that you have here on your "About" tab for the channel. No rush!
DO A BIG WANG - Riaan
One day man! Soon!
How much does it cost jenvey itb?
I probably have about $2200 in this kit total, the ITBs I got from Rev9 auto sport and they were about $1900 with the filters
@@ivgarage ☹️, damm too expensive. Do you know if motorcycles itb worth??? I ve seen many videos using itb from gsxr , cbr etc.
I personally don't have any experience, I've definitely seen many people use them though, you will need some sort of adapter to make them fit of course. If you're trying to ITB a Miata, go on to the Facebook Miata MX-5 ITB page, sometimes people are selling them for cheaper
heyhey nice vid ;)
so about the throttle position sensor and this 4 wires oem on 1.8 , you just ignored the WOT signal right?
and about the pigtail you are soldering your wires with(for the tps) , can we just directly solder the wires together, i mean, can it work just soldering and bypassing the connectors and pigtail? (i have a kit but no pigtails, so i am asking 😃)
Thank you!
So the 3 wire TPS I used has just power, ground and signal, wot is controlled by the Megasquirt internally when it sees the TPS % over 90% or whatever I set it to.
The by passing it and connecting the wires right in to the circuit without the connector will work just fine, just makes for easier removal so you don't have to remove the sensor every time.