This is a great video for dummys that dont know much about diy. I like that he explains first the symptoms your car has. He described what your car will do when sensors fail. Thats perfect for someone who is clueless on what to test or where to start to find what could be causing problem and breaks it down to if certain sensors fail this is what your car will do or not do. Thats great that he explained how your car will run if something is bad. That really helped me when it came to trying to figure out what sensor does what, and what sensor will cause your car to perform if its bad. Very helpful and saves me time testing all my sensors. I pretty much can go straight to the one i think is causing my problems. Thanks for doing a video on diagnosing the problems and symptoms of a cars performance so that i can compare my problem to the symptoms he described on video. How your car runs when all is good compared to how it runs if this and this and that is not good? Great video very helpful for blondes/dummies that are self (teaching) in progress!
Rough idle on VW petrol cars is often due to blocked throttle body butterfly valves. The half moon spaces around the valve allow sufficient air into the fuel injection system for idle unless they are gunked up with oily deposits from the gas recirculation system. As soon as the throttle is pressed the valve opens and the car runs normally. The deposits are easily removed with engine degreasant say every 40k miles.
@@8020Media question is I got the MAF code bought new sensor replaced it and still same issue with the engine shaky when I start the car and idle when first started sometimes it turns engine off
Mechanic here: Easiest way to diagnose a failing MAF/Mass airflow sensor. 1. Start your car and let it run 2. While car is running, unplug Maf sensor plug and the plug in only. 3. If car still runs after unplugging Maf sensor connector, that means your Mass airflow sensor is bad. If car shuts off then its still good and that is not the problem. Have a good day and God bless!
@@8020Media That's not always true. My car wouldn't start...it would try to turn over maybe once or twice...but when I unplugged the MAF sensor, it started. I replaced the sensor, and it started with no issues afterwards.
I was raised to understand that the engine got the proper amount of air into the cylinder by the intake stroke! My 72 Plymouth Road Runner runs just fine without All these sensors telling it what to do!! From Texas USA 🤔🤠🤯🥳🤓
I have a 09 kia optima and my car starts and shuts off with in 10 seconds. In park i can hit the gas and ut stays on but when i stop it shuts off i cant even drive out the drive way could mas help that thanks
@@8020Media my cruise thru code for air fuel issues and then for the down stream 02 . So I changed the 02 and car wouldn’t go over maybe 15 mph . So they the mechanics told me to clean the throttle body and never got it started after that. Now it’s in the shop with a b101e code and I’m getting charged 300 to clear that code. But car still won’t even run for more than a few seconds. I’ve never had problems with it in the past
@@8020Media they changed the spark plugs, cleaned the mass airflow sensor change the knock sensor and now it just needs a catalytic converter and the car will be running. So basically I bought defective spark plugs from advanced auto because all kinds of issues with emissions and unburnt gas going into the cat and caused the computer to go into safe mode and throw the b101e code.
if I don't have any of these 5 symptoms, does it make sense to clean as a preventive maintenance? I drive 2007 Odyssey with 164k miles and it probably never been cleaned or replaced
My Fiat Stilo 1.9 jtd began to accelerate more slowly, but only until the mode when the turbocompressor starts working, up to 1700 - 1800 rpm, then it pulls like a "beast". Are these symptoms indicative of a bad MAF? I'll try turning the MAF off and see the result.
Occasionally I have the press gas pedal because engine just keeps cranking. As I touch pedal starts right away. Could MAF be faulty. No CODES. Excellent video Thank you
So i recently installed a cold air intake on my Camaro and my check engine turned on. When i took it to autozone, they said its the MAS. I took it out, cleaned it with the mas spray and tightened up everything again but check engine is still turning on. I did see a difference in the car turning on. Before tightening up everything and cleaning it, when i started the car, it had trouble staying on and i had to give it a little gas to stay on. Now it starts no problem after cleaning and tightening. Do you think i might need a new MAS for my car since i also got a cold air intake? Check engine still says mas is having problems.
2 - If you’re feeling sputtering during acceleration after installing headers and an intake, it’s likely due to an air-fuel ratio imbalance caused by the new modifications. Headers and intakes alter airflow dynamics, and without proper tuning, the ECU may not be able to compensate effectively, leading to sputtering, hesitation, or misfires. Keep us updated!
#3 for my situation, however once I reset the M.A.S connector it's starts up beautifully, I changed the M.A.S , but the car still has a Hard start once in awhile,what can be the problem/problems, and opinions/suggestions would help.(M.A.S = Mass Airflow Sensor)
S - If resetting the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS) connector temporarily fixes the hard start issue, but replacing the MAS didn’t fully resolve it, the problem could be caused by a faulty MAS wiring harness, a vacuum leak, a failing throttle body, or fuel delivery issues. Start by inspecting the MAS connector and wiring for damage, corrosion, or loose pins, as intermittent electrical issues could disrupt the sensor’s readings. Also, check for vacuum leaks around the intake system, as unmetered air can cause starting difficulties. A dirty or sticking throttle body can also affect airflow regulation, leading to occasional hard starts. Lastly, test the fuel pressure to rule out a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Keep us updated!
I’m having low Rpms when driving staying under 2rpms the most is 3 rpms but I did clean my throttle body and took it out and propped the door open with a rag and also broke the little tab on the connector for tps could that cause low rpms ? No engine codes but you can feel it’s sluggish when going up hill. How do I tell if my throttle body isn’t working correctly or my tps connector is loose maybe. I also cleaned all the sensors and it ran a little better but it’s starting to go back to sluggish
Check engine code is reading (P0171 System too lean Bank 1) this is the only code the engine is pulling. could this be a MAF sensor fault? Should i start there or is this completely something else.
M - A P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) code can indeed be caused by a faulty MAF sensor, as it may send incorrect airflow data to the ECU, leading to a lean condition. Cleaning the MAF sensor with a specialized cleaner is a good first step. However, the issue could also be due to a vacuum leak, clogged fuel injectors, low fuel pressure (from a weak fuel pump or clogged filter), or an exhaust leak near the oxygen sensor. Start by inspecting the MAF sensor and surrounding air intake components, checking for vacuum leaks, and testing fuel pressure. If the MAF sensor cleaning doesn’t resolve the issue, systematically address these other possibilities.
Having issues on my wife’s car. It’s push to start and normally starts right away lately has been taking a little longer to start and when it did had a rough idle. It didn’t happen every time, Then about a week after this happening it threw a P2188 code. Gonna clean it this week and hopefully that will fix it if not I’ll replace it since it’s cheap if that doesn’t fix it mechanic it is 😢
A - We also have a video on hard starts that may be useful in your research. However, since you received the P2188 code, that should point you in the right direction. Keep us updated! ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
My code say's it's the Mass air flow P0101. I cleaned it and then cleaned filter and then just changed out the sensor. But the engine light is still coming on with that code.
FINALLY someone I can relate to, i currently have this problem I went back to the mechanic and they sent me to an Electric repair shop and they said the MAF is running fine they see no problem. However, my check engine light keeps popping up. Any idea or suggestions I can?
If it is an older Nissan it probably needs a computer software update and reprogramming. I had the same issue with my 2011 and finally had the update done and it runs as good as it was when new!
My truck died on me at 4:30 in the morning on my way to work it would start run 2 seconds and quit, these sensors should not be able to shut your vehicle down
L - Are you getting an engine code pointing to the MAF? We have a video covering vehicle stalls that may be helpful diagnosing this: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
@@8020Media No it had no codes I could keep it running on carb cleaner so figured it was the fuel pump, $200 later it would only start then die I unplugged the maf and it stayed running. I cleaned it and it runs fine now.
Can a dead MAF cause no boost - not reduced, none. I had some weird overboost and underpower issues always 5 mins after cold start, weirdly no codes? Whatever it is has gone from OK to dead, so wondering if its MAF
So I have a 2002 Ford escape six-cylinder 3.0 engine in my maf sensor is reading higher than normal and yes, I’m getting misfire. I’m not getting a code for the sensor. I do know that I have a O2 sensor on one of the banks not reading properly but once the car gets up and warm symptoms seem to go away now I’ve done the usual looking at vacuum hoses, and sprayed brake fluid around areas to see if the engine RPMs would go up basically looking for vacuum leaks and that doesn’t happen the engine rpm stay constant, so could I have a bad sensor? Could I have a bad IAC? Scratching my head in Michigan.
K - If your 2002 Ford Escape’s MAF sensor is reading higher than normal, you’re experiencing misfires, and the symptoms improve as the engine warms up, this could indicate a few potential issues. While it doesn’t sound like there’s a vacuum leak based on your testing, a faulty MAF sensor could still be the culprit, as it might be sending incorrect airflow data without triggering a direct code. Additionally, the oxygen sensor not reading properly on one bank can disrupt the air-fuel mixture, contributing to the misfire and exacerbating issues with the MAF. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve could also play a role, particularly during cold starts, as a malfunctioning IAC may not provide sufficient air for smooth idling. Start by cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and replacing the faulty oxygen sensor to ensure accurate readings for the air-fuel mixture. If the problem persists, test the IAC valve for proper operation. Also, inspect the intake manifold for gasket leaks, as these can be more difficult to detect with a simple spray test. Keep us updated!
@@8020Media I forgot to mention that the MAF has a temperature sensor . It’s reading the incoming air and I’ve tested it when the car was cold and it closely reads the same as the engine temperature sensor. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and that made no difference. I have purchased one but with the temperature outside around 10 degrees, I’m going to wait till it warms up. No room in my garage, corvette and a couple motorcycles in the way 🤪 Oh, power brake booster is fine too, no difference in rpm when I press on the brake pedal. I may also pull the IAC off and bench test it.
@@8020Media I’ve replaced bank2 sensor 2 because it wasn’t reading correctly. Now I see good numbers from it and the computer is controlling the fuel much better! I’m now seeing that bank 1 sensor 2 is not giving me good numbers it’s more like .035v I may have damaged it from Rutherford engine running so bad. So I’ll change that one out too. Also sense replacing b2 s2, a lot less cylinder 2 missing. I may have to take the car on a nice long ride to see if that will clean the plug up. If not , well when I get another break in the weather, I’ll pull the intake off and replace that plug and maybe the coil pack and the intake gaskets because I don’t remember replacing them. That’s my updated so far.
@ Another update, I pulled the intake so I could look at that #2 cylinder plug. What I found was a crack in the epoxy of the coilpack and when I pulled the plug, I found the center electrode broken loose and flopping inside the insulator. I changed the plug and puled the 1 and 3 coilpack only to find cracks in the epoxy on those too. I'm guessing heat from the exhaust manifold. All 6 coilpacks were replaced. I put everything back together, reset the KAM memory and started it up. Wow, beautiful running at idle and power is back when pressing down on the accelerator. I'm going to give the computer some time to relearn and I think I'll change the oil just in case I washed that cylinder down too much.
@@8020Media My check engine light is busted and I don't have an external code reader so idk unfortunately. But after watching your other video on faulty 02 sensors I'm thinking that it might just be that.
Great video! I cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter, even cleaned up the tb plate a little and hard reset the ECU. All was well until half way through the next day. Engine light returned, obd2 read out rich fuel ratio. Getting some juttering when stopped at a light. Could it be o2 sensor related? I ruled out spark plugs because after the cleaning and reset, the vehicle starts up faster then my other vehicle with ngk iridium ix plugs! Could be wrong of course.Thoughts are appreciated! Again, thank you for the video! 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport 2.4 4l eco e85 capable version in Tx.
Can A P0101 MAF issue throw codes like CVT Slippage (p17fo), I just bought a used 2013 nissan altima @ 124k miles and got the check engine light on after 2-3 days I drove it around 1.5k miles, I did a fixfinder reading and it shows me the codes P0101 and P17FO, I was just wondering if the MAF can throw codes for failing transmission/cvt slippage mistakenly? I took it to the dealer and he just erased it and the P17FO code didn’t show up on this OBD2 scanner. He asked me to bring it back if there’s issues and im taking it to him tomorrow.
I have a 2010 Ford F150. It wants to stall after about 18 miles. It runs fine, accelerates fine, no loss I mpg, after about 18 miles if. Bit a light,traffic or stop lights. It will start wanting to stall. I have to put into neutral and rev it.
V - The stalling issue with your 2010 Ford F150 after about 18 miles, especially at lights or in traffic, is likely caused by a problem in the idle air control (IAC) system, fuel delivery system, or evaporative emissions (EVAP) system. As the engine warms up, a failing IAC valve may struggle to regulate airflow at idle, causing it to want to stall. Another possibility is a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter, which could cause fuel pressure to drop under low-load conditions. Additionally, a stuck EVAP purge valve could allow excess fuel vapors to enter the intake, disrupting the air-fuel mixture. Start by inspecting the IAC valve and throttle body for carbon buildup, test the fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks or EVAP system issues. Keep us updated.
I noticed recently my vehicle been losing gas mileage.. But no check engine light on, for anything. Also, sometimes my RPM goes up and down a little bit..Any idea would help a lot thank you.
Had a 2004 Hyundai Elantra; it got, at best, 33 mpg. Have a 2018 Hyundai Elantra; it gets, at best, 45 mpg. 2018 also has multiple drive modes from which to choose. There are people who complained when the hand crank was replaced by an electric starter and their offspring didn't like it when the 8-track was replaced by a DVD.
My Toyota corolla 2009 start fine and run fine on high way when no rush on road but at rush hours when speed is very low and applied brake again and again, the car rmp down and engine stop. It not start immediately but start again after 30-45 minute. Any Ideas?
J - Your 2009 Toyota Corolla stalling at low speeds and taking 30-45 minutes to restart could be due to a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, both of which can malfunction when they overheat, cutting off the ignition signal and preventing immediate restarts. Another possibility is a faulty idle air control (IAC) valve, which may struggle to maintain proper idle under stop-and-go traffic conditions. Additionally, inspect for a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump, as reduced fuel delivery under low-demand situations can cause stalling. Start by scanning for stored error codes even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on and systematically check these components for proper operation.
Going to replace my MAF, I’m thinking That’s my problem Because I had a lean code p0171 & P0174 Already changed my fuel filter and pump I have fuel pressure but My fuel trims are very high In Key on engine off Hopefully it fixes this issue, the truck won’t start but it sounds like it will it just sputters and shuts off
I bought a dash board mounted OBD2. It can read out many parameters like throttle body % opening, MAP, MAF, low & high fuel trim, RPM, IAT, O2 reading, battery voltage etc etc. For a 2 litre car engine it's MAF should be reading air flow of around 5g/second at idling RPM with air cond off vs manifold pressure at -7.3psi Setting the car on auto cruise mode and keeping the car's engine at 2000rpm the MAF should be reading around 45g/second when MAP (air manifold pressure) at +7.35psi vs MAF 30g/second at 0psi by MAP. On the dashboard OBD2 show be recorded using a mounted hand phone so that both hands are in the steering wheel. Be safe. Broken vacuum hose or even a slightly loose air clamp can cause atmospheric air to leak into negative pressure side of the manifold and drop MAF reading during idling. Throttle valve body opening will easily drop from 15% open to 13% or less.
My 2013 nissan altima has this code and it went away and it turned back on but i cleaned it and code came up .. so when i turn it on sometimes it turns on completely for like 3 seconds then turns off but sometimes… and when it doesn’t do that it start on and runs good just with check engine light on im going to try it and buy a new one ..
2011 Nissan and I've replaced MAF at least 4 times. This time my mechanic is going to use a Nissan part. However I am not sure it will not happen again. Each one has lasted about 6 months to a year if lucky. And before you ask yes everything else has been checked and/or replaced. My question is what year car do you have to buy to get pass the faulty MAF?
Ive got obd1.. 94 4runner... been getting really low rpm at idle/stops , like 200.. and it typically stalls.. im thinkin the MAF is whats the problem??
I changed the spark plugs in a 2014 Audi A4. Car ran fine. Changed the air filter and cabin filter. This morning I drove the car around the block and it ran fine. Changed the oil via evacuation method. Started the car and it ran so rough I turned it off, but have an EPC light and check engine light. Any Ideas? The housing for the air filter was full of dead leaves and I used a vacuum to suck those out...could this damage the MAF?
Hi! I’m thinking of getting a preowned full-sized pickup truck as daily work truck. I have a commute of 40 mile one-way (1.5 hrs) then another 1hr drive home in horrid SoCal traffic. I haul mostly network cabling installation equipment in the bed, and do not tow. What brand, model year, engine and grade do you recommend? I would like to have some of the newer active safety features such as the automatic emergency braking system to avoid front collisions, but not as critical as long-term reliability and durability. Any suggestions for a late model pickup truck with Direct and Port Injection. Also, what immediate and affordable engine and transmission mods for reliability and durability do you recommend to protect the powertrain? I’m not looking for more power, just long-term reliability and durability as I don’t have too much money and need a truck for work and personal use. Thank you!
The biggest question is what is your budget. Long term durability I'd say avoid GM right now - their AFM/DFM technology is wack. Ford's 5.0 Coyote is a solid motor going to be lower maintenance than their EcoBoost engines. And Ram's Hemi engines are tried and true.
@8020Media I wouldn't go as far as tried and true, Look up "Hemi Tick" its either bad or worse news! I have a 2015 with 140kmi and it's been a constant issue with mannifold warpage/broken studs in the last 2 years, with them coming on and off 8xs which led to the "other" "Hemi Tick" and that would be dropped valves/lifters and ate up camshafts!! Poor exhaust design and attachment to truck, bottlenecks and chokes it down, and they are very temperamental and you're asking for trouble if you accidentally put 5w30 instead of 5w20 bc they are THAT FINICKY!! 2/10......don't recommend!!!
My 2015 dodge dart sxt doesnt have a mass airflow sensor, it has the air intake charge temperature sensor... i was having trouble starting the car it crank but didnt start so i disconnected the connector for the sensor and it turn on so just replaced it and it works better and the car starts at first attempt not at second like it used to.
I've done two or three you need a special torx bit a t15 or t20 security with a hole in it to remove/replace the MAS sensor. Or a pair of vice grips. Be gentle
I have a 2000 Wrangler with a rebuilt 4 cylinder. Everything is fine except when I get up to 45/46 mph it cuts out and sputters . If I let off the gas or accelerate it acts normal. Always at 45/46.
B - The issue with your 2000 Jeep Wrangler cutting out and sputtering at 45-46 mph is likely related to a fuel delivery or ignition system problem. At that specific speed, the engine may be hitting a point where the fuel-air mixture or timing isn’t optimized. Common culprits include a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS), as it can send incorrect signals at certain throttle positions, or a fuel pressure issue caused by a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Additionally, the ignition coil or spark plugs may misfire under load at that speed due to wear or insufficient spark. Start by checking for stored diagnostic codes, testing the TPS for smooth voltage changes, and verifying fuel pressure. Keep us updated!
2004 Lincoln LS MAF issues when it’s connected the car will not start completely but once disconnected car runs but idles roughly. Replaced the sensor with brand new one and still does the same thing. Engine code reads the same not sure where to go from here I need help asap !! What would be the next step?
I changed everything in my truck to stop the missing popping an staling out then I unplugged my mass air flow sensor an it ran great it misses every now an then but it runs great and I also smell antifreeze but no leak ??????? 8:47
@@BurtLay it’s running on a predetermined air fuel ratio with the sensor disconnected, you likely have a fuel delivery issue (pump, injector spider etc)
I was experiencing serious issues with my 06 Colorado when I read your comment. I immediately walked out to the truck and unplugged the MAFS and it ran like new. Thank you brother!!!
Think it also depends on what vehicle, the wiring system, and computer. I thought my TPS was bad. Replaced it still didn't help. I replaced my once already replaced MAF from a decade ago which solved the problem. Plus my car is from 89
Same replaced tps After 10 to 15 miles solid check engine light comes on and car does this judder like im pressing and releasing gas pedal when im not. Any suggestions 😊😮
@8020Media thank you for your response Yep did it yesterday no luck 93 subaru no scanner or obd port 🤔 😕. I've learned a lot about my car recently lol doing some of the work myself. Saved myself 1200.00 dollars a year ago doing gear shift linkage. Wish I had started learning sooner. I'm original owner. Might add when I turn off car and turn back on process starts again after 10 15 miles
@@8020Media Thank you. I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima and I've never changed my Cabin Filter. (Yeah filthy) and the code kicked. Im hoping this did the trick.
I need help... Mine is doing the start .. and immediately shuts down. Start again.. ahuts down.. sometimes it starts and idles. But you gove it some throttle. It immediately bogs and shuts off. Also.. NO ENGINE LIGHT.. NOTHING
But so what if it is a 2019 Chevrolet camaro with 47000 miles no check engine light but under load it sputters feels like a misfire though like I said no check engine light so I hooked up my computer to it and well even sitting still it feels like sputtering morning time when I start my vehicle I can smell a little bit of gas though idk I never did the tune up on it idk
S - Start with a tune-up (spark plugs and air filter) and inspect the ignition coils and fuel injectors. If the problem persists, investigate the MAF sensor, vacuum system, and fuel pressure. The gas smell suggests incomplete combustion, so addressing spark or fuel delivery is key.
I just threw a po172 too rich and po101 maf sensor. Is my problem too rich or is my maf sensor putting out wrong numbers to the computer. At idle I’m getting .9 lbs per minute on my scanner maf reading. What is wrong dude ?
@ Thank you ! I cleared the codes and this is the second day and no more check engine light. I’m sure it could come back. My fuel trims went -15 plus negative. Now they are +5-6 . I cleaned it a while back with crc maf cleaner and took it out again and it looks clean. I put in a new air filter. I will inspect the ducting and air box. Thanks again !
Most dealerships just automatically offer to change MAF for some 300...400$. There will be absolutely no suggestion on cleaning it. Last time a MAF went bad on my ford Mondeo I just took it out, cleaned it with some CRC and a cotton tip. Problem solved and my DIY 0$ fix held for several years before I totalled that POS Ford for other reasons. And yes official dealerships diagnosis was bad MAF needs to be changed, cost 350$.
My 2004 won't strart never had a problem my inertia switchwent out so I by passed it and it started but the next day It wouldn't start. Can anybody help?
@@8020Media I sprayed it off real good it was still jerking and hesitation.i bought a throttle body I went to a muffler shop.thry said it was that I put it on and the car ran perfectly
Ok I don't have a code reader and have run into an issue with my 2011 camry. The first start up in the morning is great. The engine cranks right up. After I have driven it for a few miles 10, 20 or 30 and let it sit for a moment it cranks, cranks and cranks then eventually starts up. I recently put in a new battery and replaced the air filter. Any suggestions where to go next? I've been told the fuel pump, but the car idles and runs great other than the start up on a warm engine.
Do you have a check engine light on? You can go to any Autozone, Oreillys, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, etc. and they will read codes for you for free. Could be the starter motor, but yes could also be the fuel pump but I agree you'd probably notice some smaller issues once the pump gets hot and warmed up or on long drives
@@8020Media ok I went to auto one they checked it and found no faults. I’m in doubt what’s next. If it was the starter I would be having the issue on my first initial morning start. Too much gas in carburetor? Check valve? Fuel pump?
Taken my car to three different places and they all tell me it is maf. Replaced it and the engine light still stays on. Have reset it but the engine light still comes on. Any thoughts.
Ok answer this ? If the mass air sensors giving these issues and we disconnect it and it runs roughly but when we connect it back it shuts off? Is that definitely the mass air sensor?😊 or i a c valve?
I’m having these symptoms issues with my car and when I put gas in my car it stutters to turn on and have to press on the gas to fully get it to start could you lmk what you think?
Other sensors that give the same symptoms other than mass air flow are bad o2 sensor, temp sensor, and idle air control valve. All deal with fuel mixture. Other things to be aware of include, stopped up air and fuel filters and of course plugs, wires, rottery button, and distributor cap.
B - The symptoms of your car starting fine but then bucking hard and barely moving could be caused by a failing MAF sensor, which may send incorrect air-fuel mixture readings, leading to hesitation or reduced power. Cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor may resolve the issue. However, it could also be due to a failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or even a faulty crankshaft position sensor or ignition coil, all of which can cause intermittent power loss as the engine warms up. Scanning for error codes with an OBD-II tool will help pinpoint the root cause and guide repairs effectively.
This is a great video for dummys that dont know much about diy. I like that he explains first the symptoms your car has. He described what your car will do when sensors fail. Thats perfect for someone who is clueless on what to test or where to start to find what could be causing problem and breaks it down to if certain sensors fail this is what your car will do or not do. Thats great that he explained how your car will run if something is bad. That really helped me when it came to trying to figure out what sensor does what, and what sensor will cause your car to perform if its bad. Very helpful and saves me time testing all my sensors. I pretty much can go straight to the one i think is causing my problems. Thanks for doing a video on diagnosing the problems and symptoms of a cars performance so that i can compare my problem to the symptoms he described on video. How your car runs when all is good compared to how it runs if this and this and that is not good? Great video very helpful for blondes/dummies that are self (teaching) in progress!
C - Great to hear this video helped! Thanks for the feedback.
Your descriptions of the symptoms are so in depth and concise. Thank you for the help you put out on your channel. It's greatly appreciated.
9 - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.
Good explanation and thank you for sharing.
Ben - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helped.
@@8020Mediayes and very much.
Cars were so much better before all this sensor and computer junk ..years ago cars ran forever without problems .
V - Couldn't agree more!
exactly! All in the plans….planned obsolescence…..
Same with mercury bubble thermostat switches, console televisions, washers and dryers, etc.
@@garylivingston9052 that factors down to: government sucks
@@johnathanwroe2148 Well we definitely need to have a government, buy some things are taken a little too far..Lol
nice of you to take the time to be informative, thanks!
P - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Rough idle on VW petrol cars is often due to blocked throttle body butterfly valves. The half moon spaces around the valve allow sufficient air into the fuel injection system for idle unless they are gunked up with oily deposits from the gas recirculation system. As soon as the throttle is pressed the valve opens and the car runs normally. The deposits are easily removed with engine degreasant say every 40k miles.
B - Very true, thanks for sharing this insight!
Thank you for making this video.. my 04 v70 wagons MAF is on the Fritzs .. I’m getting most of these issues off and on (different days using the car)
J - Thanks for sharing your experience. We hope this video helps!
Now this is an educational video. Thank-you sir
B - Thanks for the feedback! Glad we could help.
@@8020Media question is I got the MAF code bought new sensor replaced it and still same issue with the engine shaky when I start the car and idle when first started sometimes it turns engine off
A - Sounds like stalling. We have a great video that may help you here: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
@@8020Media I’ll check it out this all happened to me after getting rear ended the other day
Mechanic here: Easiest way to diagnose a failing MAF/Mass airflow sensor.
1. Start your car and let it run
2. While car is running, unplug Maf sensor plug and the plug in only.
3. If car still runs after unplugging Maf sensor connector, that means your Mass airflow sensor is bad. If car shuts off then its still good and that is not the problem.
Have a good day and God bless!
J - Thanks for the insight. We also say this in the video :)
@@8020Media That's not always true. My car wouldn't start...it would try to turn over maybe once or twice...but when I unplugged the MAF sensor, it started. I replaced the sensor, and it started with no issues afterwards.
S - You're basically saying the same thing..
@@8020Media My bad. I misread his post.
Yup Thank you for pointing that out
Thank you Zack for the video my 2003 Ford Ranger had all the codes you said I'm going to clean my MAF sensor once again thank you
S - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps!
I was raised to understand that the engine got the proper amount of air into the cylinder by the intake stroke! My 72 Plymouth Road Runner runs just fine without All these sensors telling it what to do!! From Texas USA 🤔🤠🤯🥳🤓
R - Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience!
I had a mass air flow sensor code. Changed it out. Not a week later had input and output transmission sensor codes. 130k on the engine.
J - Sounds like it could be wiring related.
I feel like I have to pay for this MAF1001 Module, thank you sir.
S - We hope it helps! Thanks for the feedback.
I have a 09 kia optima and my car starts and shuts off with in 10 seconds. In park i can hit the gas and ut stays on but when i stop it shuts off i cant even drive out the drive way could mas help that thanks
D - This sounds like your engine is stalling. We have made a video specifically for this issue: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
Is exhaust flowing?
Check/clean your idle control valve, change your fuel filter too if it's old.
Thanjs for that in-depth exploration . Cheers😊
Glad you found it useful!
@@8020Mediasuperb explanation
Blu - Thanks for the feedback!
Fantastic great job
A - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helped.
I wish I saw this video earlier! I have so many questions of what to do now
S - What's going on?
@@8020Media my cruise thru code for air fuel issues and then for the down stream 02 . So I changed the 02 and car wouldn’t go over maybe 15 mph . So they the mechanics told me to clean the throttle body and never got it started after that. Now it’s in the shop with a b101e code and I’m getting charged 300 to clear that code. But car still won’t even run for more than a few seconds. I’ve never had problems with it in the past
S - Keep us updated on this..
@@8020Media they changed the spark plugs, cleaned the mass airflow sensor change the knock sensor and now it just needs a catalytic converter and the car will be running. So basically I bought defective spark plugs from advanced auto because all kinds of issues with emissions and unburnt gas going into the cat and caused the computer to go into safe mode and throw the b101e code.
S - Glad to hear it has been resolved. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thanks for the input got a few of these symptoms with my 01 pontiac grand am seems like it could be the culprit
Sanford - Keep us updated. We hope this video helps!
@8020Media so just replaced the maf sensor and still sputtering is there another sensor that I'm missing
S - Do you have any engine codes?
@8020Media no codes just sputtering around 45-55 mph until I open it up look up that it could be a fuel pressure regulator ya?
S - It certainly could be! Given it sputtering, this could also be a fueling related issue.
if I don't have any of these 5 symptoms, does it make sense to clean as a preventive maintenance? I drive 2007 Odyssey with 164k miles and it probably never been cleaned or replaced
E - Always a good idea to clean it preventatively!
My Fiat Stilo 1.9 jtd began to accelerate more slowly, but only until the mode when the turbocompressor starts working, up to 1700 - 1800 rpm, then it pulls like a "beast". Are these symptoms indicative of a bad MAF? I'll try turning the MAF off and see the result.
A - We have a video covering this that may be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/v-deo.html
Great explaination. Awesome content.
O - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helped.
Occasionally I have the press gas pedal because engine just keeps cranking. As I touch pedal starts right away. Could MAF be faulty. No CODES.
Excellent video
Thank you
C - Thanks for sharing your experience! This video may be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
A propper gas anilizer can pickup fuel mixure aswell.
C - Thanks for sharing this insight.
Had an mass air flow sensor issue on a Nissan Kicks, make the transmission slip, you think you're CVT is blown, but thankfully its not that serious.
B - Nice! Glad you found your solution.
Very thorough and informative!
T - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps!
So i recently installed a cold air intake on my Camaro and my check engine turned on. When i took it to autozone, they said its the MAS. I took it out, cleaned it with the mas spray and tightened up everything again but check engine is still turning on. I did see a difference in the car turning on. Before tightening up everything and cleaning it, when i started the car, it had trouble staying on and i had to give it a little gas to stay on. Now it starts no problem after cleaning and tightening. Do you think i might need a new MAS for my car since i also got a cold air intake? Check engine still says mas is having problems.
M - It's possible. Are you having any air leaks? Have you reset the engine codes?
What if I got some headers installed with a intake and I feel some sputtering in acceleration
2 - If you’re feeling sputtering during acceleration after installing headers and an intake, it’s likely due to an air-fuel ratio imbalance caused by the new modifications. Headers and intakes alter airflow dynamics, and without proper tuning, the ECU may not be able to compensate effectively, leading to sputtering, hesitation, or misfires. Keep us updated!
#3 for my situation, however once I reset the M.A.S connector it's starts up beautifully, I changed the M.A.S , but the car still has a Hard start once in awhile,what can be the problem/problems, and opinions/suggestions would help.(M.A.S = Mass Airflow Sensor)
S - If resetting the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS) connector temporarily fixes the hard start issue, but replacing the MAS didn’t fully resolve it, the problem could be caused by a faulty MAS wiring harness, a vacuum leak, a failing throttle body, or fuel delivery issues. Start by inspecting the MAS connector and wiring for damage, corrosion, or loose pins, as intermittent electrical issues could disrupt the sensor’s readings. Also, check for vacuum leaks around the intake system, as unmetered air can cause starting difficulties. A dirty or sticking throttle body can also affect airflow regulation, leading to occasional hard starts. Lastly, test the fuel pressure to rule out a weak fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Keep us updated!
@8020Media thanks a million,will do, I truly appreciate the response
Will it cause starting issues?
P - It's possible.
I’m having low Rpms when driving staying under 2rpms the most is 3 rpms but I did clean my throttle body and took it out and propped the door open with a rag and also broke the little tab on the connector for tps could that cause low rpms ? No engine codes but you can feel it’s sluggish when going up hill. How do I tell if my throttle body isn’t working correctly or my tps connector is loose maybe. I also cleaned all the sensors and it ran a little better but it’s starting to go back to sluggish
W - We have another video that may be helpful here: ua-cam.com/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/v-deo.html
My 96 ute has this problem, can't find a machanic 😢😢😢😢😢 to fix her , on going nightmare...sensor replacement done 😅😅😅
S - Sorry to hear this. I hope you get it figured out soon!
@@8020Media frustrating, thanks
Check engine code is reading (P0171 System too lean Bank 1) this is the only code the engine is pulling. could this be a MAF sensor fault? Should i start there or is this completely something else.
M - A P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) code can indeed be caused by a faulty MAF sensor, as it may send incorrect airflow data to the ECU, leading to a lean condition. Cleaning the MAF sensor with a specialized cleaner is a good first step. However, the issue could also be due to a vacuum leak, clogged fuel injectors, low fuel pressure (from a weak fuel pump or clogged filter), or an exhaust leak near the oxygen sensor. Start by inspecting the MAF sensor and surrounding air intake components, checking for vacuum leaks, and testing fuel pressure. If the MAF sensor cleaning doesn’t resolve the issue, systematically address these other possibilities.
Having issues on my wife’s car. It’s push to start and normally starts right away lately has been taking a little longer to start and when it did had a rough idle. It didn’t happen every time, Then about a week after this happening it threw a P2188 code. Gonna clean it this week and hopefully that will fix it if not I’ll replace it since it’s cheap if that doesn’t fix it mechanic it is 😢
A - We also have a video on hard starts that may be useful in your research. However, since you received the P2188 code, that should point you in the right direction. Keep us updated!
ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
Excellent video 👌🏽
C - Thanks for the feedback!
My code say's it's the Mass air flow P0101. I cleaned it and then cleaned filter and then just changed out the sensor. But the engine light is still coming on with that code.
M - Give it a little bit, unless you have a way to clear the codes. Is it riding better?
FINALLY someone I can relate to, i currently have this problem I went back to the mechanic and they sent me to an Electric repair shop and they said the MAF is running fine they see no problem. However, my check engine light keeps popping up. Any idea or suggestions I can?
@8020Media @Michael-jv2cn
Umm default reset...take your negative off while the vehicle is running and turn it off and put the negative back on reset
If it is an older Nissan it probably needs a computer software update and reprogramming. I had the same issue with my 2011 and finally had the update done and it runs as good as it was when new!
My truck died on me at 4:30 in the morning on my way to work it would start run 2 seconds and quit, these sensors should not be able to shut your vehicle down
L - Are you getting an engine code pointing to the MAF? We have a video covering vehicle stalls that may be helpful diagnosing this: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
@@8020Media No it had no codes I could keep it running on carb cleaner so figured it was the fuel pump, $200 later it would only start then die I unplugged the maf and it stayed running. I cleaned it and it runs fine now.
L - Great to hear you got it figured out!
I agree. My traverse, if the brake fluid is low it won’t run over like 40.
Bro you want to be able to run the engine with inconsistent and off fuel - air mis tire and damage it?? The engineers know better
Can a dead MAF cause no boost - not reduced, none. I had some weird overboost and underpower issues always 5 mins after cold start, weirdly no codes? Whatever it is has gone from OK to dead, so wondering if its MAF
J - It certainly can be the MAF!
So I have a 2002 Ford escape six-cylinder 3.0 engine in my maf sensor is reading higher than normal and yes, I’m getting misfire. I’m not getting a code for the sensor. I do know that I have a O2 sensor on one of the banks not reading properly but once the car gets up and warm symptoms seem to go away now I’ve done the usual looking at vacuum hoses, and sprayed brake fluid around areas to see if the engine RPMs would go up basically looking for vacuum leaks and that doesn’t happen the engine rpm stay constant, so could I have a bad sensor? Could I have a bad IAC?
Scratching my head in Michigan.
K - If your 2002 Ford Escape’s MAF sensor is reading higher than normal, you’re experiencing misfires, and the symptoms improve as the engine warms up, this could indicate a few potential issues. While it doesn’t sound like there’s a vacuum leak based on your testing, a faulty MAF sensor could still be the culprit, as it might be sending incorrect airflow data without triggering a direct code. Additionally, the oxygen sensor not reading properly on one bank can disrupt the air-fuel mixture, contributing to the misfire and exacerbating issues with the MAF. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve could also play a role, particularly during cold starts, as a malfunctioning IAC may not provide sufficient air for smooth idling. Start by cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and replacing the faulty oxygen sensor to ensure accurate readings for the air-fuel mixture. If the problem persists, test the IAC valve for proper operation. Also, inspect the intake manifold for gasket leaks, as these can be more difficult to detect with a simple spray test. Keep us updated!
@@8020Media I forgot to mention that the MAF has a temperature sensor . It’s reading the incoming air and I’ve tested it when the car was cold and it closely reads the same as the engine temperature sensor.
I have cleaned the MAF sensor and that made no difference. I have purchased one but with the temperature outside around 10 degrees, I’m going to wait till it warms up.
No room in my garage, corvette and a couple motorcycles in the way 🤪
Oh, power brake booster is fine too, no difference in rpm when I press on the brake pedal. I may also pull the IAC off and bench test it.
K - Keep us updated!
@@8020Media I’ve replaced bank2 sensor 2 because it wasn’t reading correctly. Now I see good numbers from it and the computer is controlling the fuel much better!
I’m now seeing that bank 1 sensor 2 is not giving me good numbers it’s more like .035v
I may have damaged it from Rutherford engine running so bad. So I’ll change that one out too. Also sense replacing b2 s2, a lot less cylinder 2 missing. I may have to take the car on a nice long ride to see if that will clean the plug up. If not , well when I get another break in the weather, I’ll pull the intake off and replace that plug and maybe the coil pack and the intake gaskets because I don’t remember replacing them.
That’s my updated so far.
@ Another update, I pulled the intake so I could look at that #2 cylinder plug. What I found was a crack in the epoxy of the coilpack and when I pulled the plug, I found the center electrode broken loose and flopping inside the insulator.
I changed the plug and puled the 1 and 3 coilpack only to find cracks in the epoxy on those too. I'm guessing heat from the exhaust manifold. All 6 coilpacks were replaced. I put everything back together, reset the KAM memory and started it up.
Wow, beautiful running at idle and power is back when pressing down on the accelerator. I'm going to give the computer some time to relearn and I think I'll change the oil just in case I washed that cylinder down too much.
I have all these symptoms at idle but my E30 doesn't have a MAF because it's an old model. What else could be causing these symptoms?
T - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media My check engine light is busted and I don't have an external code reader so idk unfortunately. But after watching your other video on faulty 02 sensors I'm thinking that it might just be that.
T - Best thing to do would be to get an OBD scanner because it would point you in the right direction.
Great video! I cleaned the MAF, replaced the filter, even cleaned up the tb plate a little and hard reset the ECU. All was well until half way through the next day. Engine light returned, obd2 read out rich fuel ratio. Getting some juttering when stopped at a light. Could it be o2 sensor related? I ruled out spark plugs because after the cleaning and reset, the vehicle starts up faster then my other vehicle with ngk iridium ix plugs! Could be wrong of course.Thoughts are appreciated! Again, thank you for the video! 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport 2.4 4l eco e85 capable version in Tx.
A - We think this video may be helpful in your research: ua-cam.com/video/U3JVc3VLahA/v-deo.html
Bad ecu maybe
These spark plugs cause pinking
yes it could be o2 they dont last the front one controls computer
Can A P0101 MAF issue throw codes like CVT Slippage (p17fo), I just bought a used 2013 nissan altima @ 124k miles and got the check engine light on after 2-3 days I drove it around 1.5k miles, I did a fixfinder reading and it shows me the codes P0101 and P17FO, I was just wondering if the MAF can throw codes for failing transmission/cvt slippage mistakenly? I took it to the dealer and he just erased it and the P17FO code didn’t show up on this OBD2 scanner. He asked me to bring it back if there’s issues and im taking it to him tomorrow.
I have a 2010 Ford F150. It wants to stall after about 18 miles. It runs fine, accelerates fine, no loss I mpg, after about 18 miles if. Bit a light,traffic or stop lights. It will start wanting to stall. I have to put into neutral and rev it.
In my experience with Ford motors, that is usually caused by clogged VCT solenoids.
V - The stalling issue with your 2010 Ford F150 after about 18 miles, especially at lights or in traffic, is likely caused by a problem in the idle air control (IAC) system, fuel delivery system, or evaporative emissions (EVAP) system. As the engine warms up, a failing IAC valve may struggle to regulate airflow at idle, causing it to want to stall. Another possibility is a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter, which could cause fuel pressure to drop under low-load conditions. Additionally, a stuck EVAP purge valve could allow excess fuel vapors to enter the intake, disrupting the air-fuel mixture. Start by inspecting the IAC valve and throttle body for carbon buildup, test the fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks or EVAP system issues. Keep us updated.
I noticed recently my vehicle been losing gas mileage.. But no check engine light on, for anything. Also, sometimes my RPM goes up and down a little bit..Any idea would help a lot thank you.
U - Are you getting any engine codes? Sometimes codes register without a check engine light.
Had a 2004 Hyundai Elantra; it got, at best, 33 mpg. Have a 2018 Hyundai Elantra; it gets, at best, 45 mpg. 2018 also has multiple drive modes from which to choose. There are people who complained when the hand crank was replaced by an electric starter and their offspring didn't like it when the 8-track was replaced by a DVD.
T - Thanks for sharing. Although, not sure what this has to do with the MAF sensor.
My Toyota corolla 2009 start fine and run fine on high way when no rush on road but at rush hours when speed is very low and applied brake again and again, the car rmp down and engine stop. It not start immediately but start again after 30-45 minute. Any Ideas?
S - This video may be more helpful for your research: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
Omg, I also have a Corolla 09 and the same thing happens. I changed the MAF and the problem continues. What is the problem?
J - Your 2009 Toyota Corolla stalling at low speeds and taking 30-45 minutes to restart could be due to a failing crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, both of which can malfunction when they overheat, cutting off the ignition signal and preventing immediate restarts. Another possibility is a faulty idle air control (IAC) valve, which may struggle to maintain proper idle under stop-and-go traffic conditions. Additionally, inspect for a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump, as reduced fuel delivery under low-demand situations can cause stalling. Start by scanning for stored error codes even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on and systematically check these components for proper operation.
can I test my maf sensor by the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter?
L - This is possible. Many DIYs online.
Going to replace my MAF, I’m thinking That’s my problem Because I had a lean code p0171 & P0174 Already changed my fuel filter and pump I have fuel pressure but My fuel trims are very high In Key on engine off Hopefully it fixes this issue, the truck won’t start but it sounds like it will it just sputters and shuts off
W - Keep us updated. This video of ours might be helpful with diagnosing as well: ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
@@8020Media good videos, I just subbed and yea I’ll Comment once I Get it diagnosed
W - Thanks for the feedback!
I bought a dash board mounted OBD2. It can read out many parameters like throttle body % opening, MAP, MAF, low & high fuel trim, RPM, IAT, O2 reading, battery voltage etc etc.
For a 2 litre car engine it's MAF should be reading air flow of around 5g/second at idling RPM with air cond off vs manifold pressure at -7.3psi
Setting the car on auto cruise mode and keeping the car's engine at 2000rpm the MAF should be reading around 45g/second when MAP (air manifold pressure) at +7.35psi vs MAF 30g/second at 0psi by MAP.
On the dashboard OBD2 show be recorded using a mounted hand phone so that both hands are in the steering wheel. Be safe.
Broken vacuum hose or even a slightly loose air clamp can cause atmospheric air to leak into negative pressure side of the manifold and drop MAF reading during idling. Throttle valve body opening will easily drop from 15% open to 13% or less.
W - Great insights here. Thanks for sharing.
Will a bad mas throw a code?
D - yes, more than likely.
All”P” codes.
D - No. We mention this in the video... Around 01:30
My 2013 nissan altima has this code and it went away and it turned back on but i cleaned it and code came up .. so when i turn it on sometimes it turns on completely for like 3 seconds then turns off but sometimes… and when it doesn’t do that it start on and runs good just with check engine light on im going to try it and buy a new one ..
L - Keep us updated.
2011 Nissan and I've replaced MAF at least 4 times. This time my mechanic is going to use a Nissan part. However I am not sure it will not happen again. Each one has lasted about 6 months to a year if lucky. And before you ask yes everything else has been checked and/or replaced. My question is what year car do you have to buy to get pass the faulty MAF?
Nice information
B - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Ive got obd1.. 94 4runner... been getting really low rpm at idle/stops , like 200.. and it typically stalls..
im thinkin the MAF is whats the problem??
M - We have a video that may be helpful here: ua-cam.com/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/v-deo.html
Is it okay to use egr cleaner to clean an maf sensor? Someone said to me it works the same as maf cleaner
L - Yup, it's basically the same thing just repackaged.
will these codes for the maf come up on obd1 also?
No.
I changed the spark plugs in a 2014 Audi A4. Car ran fine. Changed the air filter and cabin filter. This morning I drove the car around the block and it ran fine. Changed the oil via evacuation method. Started the car and it ran so rough I turned it off, but have an EPC light and check engine light. Any Ideas? The housing for the air filter was full of dead leaves and I used a vacuum to suck those out...could this damage the MAF?
R - Not likely. Do you have a way to check engine codes?
Code is sun sensor b1601 etc
Good explaination, can be more effective with demos!
Vinod - Thanks for the feedback and how we can improve the viewing experience! Great idea.
my 2013 kia optima has a rough idle. runs fine when it revs up and with general driving. Not sure if TPS or MAF. Im thinking one of the 2
K - Could be one or the other. We have a video on a rough idle that we think could be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/v-deo.html
Could it still be bad if there is no light on or no code
P - It can certainly be clogged.
Can I buy the bolts for the MAF Sensor on 2016 Mini Cooper
T - You can test some at your hardware store. It's probably not something the dealership or aftermarket dealers sell.
Hi! I’m thinking of getting a preowned full-sized pickup truck as daily work truck. I have a commute of 40 mile one-way (1.5 hrs) then another 1hr drive home in horrid SoCal traffic. I haul mostly network cabling installation equipment in the bed, and do not tow.
What brand, model year, engine and grade do you recommend? I would like to have some of the newer active safety features such as the automatic emergency braking system to avoid front collisions, but not as critical as long-term reliability and durability. Any suggestions for a late model pickup truck with Direct and Port Injection. Also, what immediate and affordable engine and transmission mods for reliability and durability do you recommend to protect the powertrain? I’m not looking for more power, just long-term reliability and durability as I don’t have too much money and need a truck for work and personal use. Thank you!
The biggest question is what is your budget. Long term durability I'd say avoid GM right now - their AFM/DFM technology is wack. Ford's 5.0 Coyote is a solid motor going to be lower maintenance than their EcoBoost engines. And Ram's Hemi engines are tried and true.
@@8020Media Thank you for your responding and for your advice! I appreciate your advice and help.
O - No problem! Glad we could help.
@8020Media I wouldn't go as far as tried and true, Look up "Hemi Tick" its either bad or worse news! I have a 2015 with 140kmi and it's been a constant issue with mannifold warpage/broken studs in the last 2 years, with them coming on and off 8xs which led to the "other" "Hemi Tick" and that would be dropped valves/lifters and ate up camshafts!! Poor exhaust design and attachment to truck, bottlenecks and chokes it down, and they are very temperamental and you're asking for trouble if you accidentally put 5w30 instead of 5w20 bc they are THAT FINICKY!! 2/10......don't recommend!!!
My buick lesabre shakes / vibrates hard and has trouble accelerating at 45 - 55 mph. Driving faster or slower is fine.
Any ideas why ??❤
S - We have some videos that may be useful here: ua-cam.com/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/ipjYLPJgpq8/v-deo.html
Great info.. thank you!!
J - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it helps!
Could the engine light come on for awhile AND then go off for a couple days?
S - Certainly possible!
My 2015 dodge dart sxt doesnt have a mass airflow sensor, it has the air intake charge temperature sensor... i was having trouble starting the car it crank but didnt start so i disconnected the connector for the sensor and it turn on so just replaced it and it works better and the car starts at first attempt not at second like it used to.
J - We also have a video that may be helpful here: ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
I've done two or three you need a special torx bit a t15 or t20 security with a hole in it to remove/replace the MAS sensor. Or a pair of vice grips. Be gentle
M - Well said. Thanks for sharing!
...or a flat head screwdriver that fits tightly between the notches 😀
I have a 2000 Wrangler with a rebuilt 4 cylinder. Everything is fine except when I get up to 45/46 mph it cuts out and sputters . If I let off the gas or accelerate it acts normal. Always at 45/46.
B - The issue with your 2000 Jeep Wrangler cutting out and sputtering at 45-46 mph is likely related to a fuel delivery or ignition system problem. At that specific speed, the engine may be hitting a point where the fuel-air mixture or timing isn’t optimized. Common culprits include a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS), as it can send incorrect signals at certain throttle positions, or a fuel pressure issue caused by a weak fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Additionally, the ignition coil or spark plugs may misfire under load at that speed due to wear or insufficient spark. Start by checking for stored diagnostic codes, testing the TPS for smooth voltage changes, and verifying fuel pressure. Keep us updated!
2004 Lincoln LS MAF issues when it’s connected the car will not start completely but once disconnected car runs but idles roughly. Replaced the sensor with brand new one and still does the same thing. Engine code reads the same not sure where to go from here I need help asap !! What would be the next step?
I believe it’s between 3-4 issues
B - What engine codes are you getting?
I changed everything in my truck to stop the missing popping an staling out then I unplugged my mass air flow sensor an it ran great it misses every now an then but it runs great and I also smell antifreeze but no leak ??????? 8:47
B - Is the MAF blocked?
No it's not blocked
It's unplugged now and it runs great I've had 3 on it
@@BurtLay it’s running on a predetermined air fuel ratio with the sensor disconnected, you likely have a fuel delivery issue (pump, injector spider etc)
I was experiencing serious issues with my 06 Colorado when I read your comment. I immediately walked out to the truck and unplugged the MAFS and it ran like new. Thank you brother!!!
Think it also depends on what vehicle, the wiring system, and computer. I thought my TPS was bad. Replaced it still didn't help. I replaced my once already replaced MAF from a decade ago which solved the problem. Plus my car is from 89
S - Thanks for sharing your experience.
@@8020Media You're welcome. Thanks for the information
Same replaced tps
After 10 to 15 miles solid check engine light comes on and car does this judder like im pressing and releasing gas pedal when im not. Any suggestions 😊😮
P - Have you tried your MAF?
@8020Media thank you for your response
Yep did it yesterday no luck
93 subaru no scanner or obd port 🤔 😕. I've learned a lot about my car recently lol doing some of the work myself. Saved myself 1200.00 dollars a year ago doing gear shift linkage. Wish I had started learning sooner. I'm original owner.
Might add when I turn off car and turn back on process starts again after 10 15 miles
2012 MAZDA2 WHEN COLD IDLES FINE WHEN WARMS UP ROUGH IDLE ABOUT 5 -600 ANY IDLE WHAT COULD CAUSE THIS ( NO CODES OR ENGINE LIGHT )
S - Could potentially be a clogged EGR valve.
@@8020Media THANKS I WILL CHECK THIS
I got code p0106 and it stalls bad idle like rough and esc traction light comes on and off any help ??
E - This could be related to your MAP sensor: ua-cam.com/video/F0DXflK7ADo/v-deo.html
Will a dirty cabin filter kick a code?
H - It can, but it wouldn't point directly to that filter.
@@8020Media Thank you. I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima and I've never changed my Cabin Filter. (Yeah filthy) and the code kicked. Im hoping this did the trick.
H - Thanks for sharing. Hope it resolves your issue!
I need help...
Mine is doing the start .. and immediately shuts down.
Start again.. ahuts down.. sometimes it starts and idles. But you gove it some throttle. It immediately bogs and shuts off.
Also.. NO ENGINE LIGHT.. NOTHING
S - This video may be more helpful for your research: ua-cam.com/video/cOW5RlAkqi4/v-deo.html
But so what if it is a 2019 Chevrolet camaro with 47000 miles no check engine light but under load it sputters feels like a misfire though like I said no check engine light so I hooked up my computer to it and well even sitting still it feels like sputtering morning time when I start my vehicle I can smell a little bit of gas though idk I never did the tune up on it idk
S - Start with a tune-up (spark plugs and air filter) and inspect the ignition coils and fuel injectors. If the problem persists, investigate the MAF sensor, vacuum system, and fuel pressure. The gas smell suggests incomplete combustion, so addressing spark or fuel delivery is key.
I just threw a po172 too rich and po101 maf sensor. Is my problem too rich or is my maf sensor putting out wrong numbers to the computer. At idle I’m getting .9 lbs per minute on my scanner maf reading. What is wrong dude ?
S - Your MAF sensor is likely providing incorrect readings, causing the rich condition. Start by cleaning the sensor and inspecting the intake system.
@ Thank you ! I cleared the codes and this is the second day and no more check engine light. I’m sure it could come back. My fuel trims went -15 plus negative. Now they are +5-6 . I cleaned it a while back with crc maf cleaner and took it out again and it looks clean. I put in a new air filter. I will inspect the ducting and air box. Thanks again !
S - Keep us updated!
Most dealerships just automatically offer to change MAF for some 300...400$. There will be absolutely no suggestion on cleaning it. Last time a MAF went bad on my ford Mondeo I just took it out, cleaned it with some CRC and a cotton tip. Problem solved and my DIY 0$ fix held for several years before I totalled that POS Ford for other reasons. And yes official dealerships diagnosis was bad MAF needs to be changed, cost 350$.
S - Very true! Thanks for sharing this, it will certainly help future viewers.
My 2004 won't strart never had a problem my inertia switchwent out so I by passed it and it started but the next day It wouldn't start. Can anybody help?
J - This video may be more helpful for your research: ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
Thanks a ton😊
K - Thanks for the feedback. We hope it was helpful!
Why do all the sensors have the same symptoms.
H - Good point. Best bet is to check engine codes to point you to the right sensor.
How do i get rid of a p0103 code "a" high curcuit?
V - Try cleaning your MAF sensor. Keep us updated.
Okay
I can use alcohol right?
V - Yes.
Code po175 fordf150 should i replace sensor
D - You can try cleaning the MAF sensor to see if it works. Keep us updated.
@@8020Mediaok question
I changed my mass air flow sensor it got worse than with the old one
M - Did you get the right sensor? What engine codes are you getting?
@@8020Media I sprayed it off real good it was still jerking and hesitation.i bought a throttle body I went to a muffler shop.thry said it was that I put it on and the car ran perfectly
M - Nice! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. This will certainly help future viewers.
Ok I don't have a code reader and have run into an issue with my 2011 camry. The first start up in the morning is great. The engine cranks right up. After I have driven it for a few miles 10, 20 or 30 and let it sit for a moment it cranks, cranks and cranks then eventually starts up. I recently put in a new battery and replaced the air filter. Any suggestions where to go next?
I've been told the fuel pump, but the car idles and runs great other than the start up on a warm engine.
Do you have a check engine light on? You can go to any Autozone, Oreillys, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, etc. and they will read codes for you for free. Could be the starter motor, but yes could also be the fuel pump but I agree you'd probably notice some smaller issues once the pump gets hot and warmed up or on long drives
@@8020Media no check engine light
F - We have a video on long cranks that may be helpful with your research: ua-cam.com/video/0YRdzJbHcm4/v-deo.html
@@8020Media ok I went to auto one they checked it and found no faults. I’m in doubt what’s next.
If it was the starter I would be having the issue on my first initial morning start.
Too much gas in carburetor? Check valve? Fuel pump?
F - Only thoughts here are to check the starter motor/solenoid, battery, and alternator. If it's not those, then can dig a little deeper.
Will it smell like gas in the car
G - It can indirectly.
Taken my car to three different places and they all tell me it is maf. Replaced it and the engine light still stays on. Have reset it but the engine light still comes on. Any thoughts.
P - What engine codes are you getting?
I got a code on my Malibu p1101 what can that be
J - It's more than likely your MAF sensor. Best thing to do is to clean the MAF and see what happens.
Thanks sir
K - Thanks for the feedback!
Could it be my throttle position sensor because it idles and shakes , it sounds like it wants to cut off like it has a cam on it,
Have you checked the cam position sensor? But yeah could be TPS too which I think we also have a video on
👍🏼😎🏁🏁🏁great video
S - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
Ok answer this ? If the mass air sensors giving these issues and we disconnect it and it runs roughly but when we connect it back it shuts off? Is that definitely the mass air sensor?😊 or i a c valve?
A - More than likely MAF.
8020 media
thank you for this information
T - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
BMWs are really bad for throwing all those codes when there is a vaccum leak from any of it's plastic vaccum related parts
C - True.
I’m having these symptoms issues with my car and when I put gas in my car it stutters to turn on and have to press on the gas to fully get it to start could you lmk what you think?
Check your Oil Level COLD. Also, check your Battery and Make Sure that it's on Tight. Do you have to use 91 Gas?
Had the same symptoms with Chevy Silverado turned out it was the plugs
So not having any issues like y'all are having chekc engine light is on n its like bogging down alot..says p0171 n p0174
D - We have a great video on those fault codes that may be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/U3JVc3VLahA/v-deo.html
My revs stay up when braking then drops to idle when stopped
P - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media hi thanks for the reply, i ordered a obd2 scanner , didnt work on my car but does on my other 🤨
P - What car do you have?
KN air filter is number 1 sign of a bad MAF.
T - What?
M - Great point. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Other sensors that give the same symptoms other than mass air flow are bad o2 sensor, temp sensor, and idle air control valve. All deal with fuel mixture. Other things to be aware of include, stopped up air and fuel filters and of course plugs, wires, rottery button, and distributor cap.
D - Very true. Thanks for the added insight here.
Will a bad maf.sensor cause car to move lazy up hill
K - It's possible.
You forgot to mention, crank no start
A - Thanks for the insight.
Car stats fine, then when driving for a bit, starts bucking hard and bately moves. MAF?
Barely moves
B - The symptoms of your car starting fine but then bucking hard and barely moving could be caused by a failing MAF sensor, which may send incorrect air-fuel mixture readings, leading to hesitation or reduced power. Cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor may resolve the issue. However, it could also be due to a failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or even a faulty crankshaft position sensor or ignition coil, all of which can cause intermittent power loss as the engine warms up. Scanning for error codes with an OBD-II tool will help pinpoint the root cause and guide repairs effectively.
I a c valve????
A - ua-cam.com/video/oD35vPTCwDs/v-deo.html
You would look at the short and long term fuel trends. …not hard at all.
T - Not hard for people with automotive knowledge, sure. We make these videos for every skill level.