Audi A4 Quattro 2 0L FSI update 4
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Hi this should be the last update on this 2007 Audi Quattro with the 2.0L FSI engine what we found on the cylinder head was a burnt exhaust valve on cylinder no. 2 and a blown head gasket between cylinder no 1 and 2 I rebuilted the head with 16 new valves and valve stem seals put a new timing chain and a new timing chain adjuster I had a issue when I first started the engine there was a fault code for camshaft and crank shaft correlation (out of time ) so I had to remove the valve cover and check the timing of the 2 cams and the intake cam was off by on tooth I'm pretty sure that they were ok when I set them on the bench but they might of skipped when I started the engine with no oil pressure but one thing I notice you can't trust the factory tool to get the timing right you have to double check this is why I decided to show that it doesn't always work the first time and any mechanical work that you do is always a risk to do something wrong it not like I assemble these head every day like someone on the factory floor. but now I know better my new rule is to put a new chain and a tensionner and crank the engine a couple of seconds to let the hydraulic tensionner to spread the chain tight so that there is no chance of the chain to skip on the initial start up .
Just wanted to share a comment on the camshaft timing I learned on mine recently. Both cams do have a reference mark - apparently not used in factory manual but I found a useful way to make this alignment simple. Exhaust cam has a "line" for reference (on engine side) - install copper colored chain link on that tooth. Bring camshaft chain around the top of the exhaust cam towards the intake cam. Intake cam has a "dot" (on firewall side) - that dot will align in the middle of the 9th and 10th link of the chain so install the chain there and that is the proper cam alignment. You can use the alignment tool but that is really only a general alignment as you can see in the video. BTW - this was an awesome video
Thanks for the comment and info I also notice That it had a cooper colored link but I did not see in witch way to set it up
I wish I saw this comment yesterday. I have been fighting with mine all day.
+Eliana Ritchie Hello, I have a question. When I put copper colored chain link on that "line" mark I have to counting links starting with the copper colored link and align in the middle of the 9th ant 10th link? Sorry for my english, or this question, but I'm confused. Some one told me that I must align chain between 10th ant 11th link, so I don't know if they are wrong or right, or I have to start counting links from the second link next to copper colored link?
Thanks.
Deivukas1 hi I can't recall in the Audi repair manual for them to mention the gold coloured link but the proper way is to lock both camshafts with the locking tool and then with chain on the intake cam sprocket you put the chain on the timing adjuster at a point where the pin on the back of the adjuster fits in the exhaust cam but in order for it to fit you have to turn the intake cam clock wise when looking at the back side on the engine this is all done with the chain on the intake cam and the adjuster when you turn the intake cam while holding the adjuster against the face of the exhaust cam the pin will line up if you have the adjuster at the correct orientation and the you can put the bolt back on the exhaust cam and torque it I know that when I remove a chain from a engine I usually paint the links so I know how many links there is from a point that I paint also but I do this only on a car that I know that has no faults in the engine ECU for camshaft alignment hope the helps.
+V10PDTDI Hi
Can I ask you a question about 2.0 tfsi. I saw your video, but the lock tool is useless, because it's too loose like in your video. Did like Elian Ritchie suggested (put chain between 9th and 10th link using marks), but there is no compression, then did like one guy recommended me put chain using marks in the middle of the 10th and 11th link. I think I put chain right way, but the thing is when I start engine everything seems fine. But when engine reach optimal temperature and oil is warm engine starts shaking on idle, computer shows that ignition angle is jumping around -20 and +20. And if I disconnect cam adjuster valve (n205) engine stops shaking "Check Engine" light comes on. Or if engine is shaking I disconnect Crankshaft Position Sensor engine also stops shaking but EPS light comes on. I don't know where to look at... Any suggestions? Could it be that we put chain wrong way or there could be other reason. We also changed cam chain cover, but engine is still shaking...
Thanks for the video and great description on the potential for the intake cam to be one tooth off even with the VW cam lock tool. I ran into the same issue after replacing the cam chain & tensioner. After seeing your video I found that my cam lobes were not in the same angle relative to one another, even though they were "locked down" with the tool. Once I rotated the intake cam back by one tooth the engine ran perfect with no codes or CELs. Just wanted to thank you for this instructive video, as it is appreciated.
Well iv been having p0016 code showing up and car running ok but bad fuel consumption and no boost.This video has saved me 2 weeks of headache and head scratching.Mine was out by 1 tooth also.Just want to say THANK YOU👍👍 Cars got all its horses back now thanks to you!!
Great video series! Thank you for sharing the camshaft lock tool tip! I bought the tool a couple of years ago (planning ahead), but have not yet had a chance to use it... so the info about the lobe position is much appreciated!
The video series like this is like gold.? :)
Thomas, do you know what size the bolts are that hold down the cam tool?
Before watching your video I followed the assembly procedures that Mitchell alldata and every other source provided and had the same problem your video helped me solve my problem thanks
I've got the same issue, following Audi's procedure as far as they are concerned that tool is supposed to hold it perfect.
Thanks for taking the time to go back in and point this out, as I just did one with a P0016, im going back in again and was suspecting a tooth jump as commanded and actual were about 14* apart.
Great job! Too bad good mechanics cant charge for ALL the time they have invested in the job, we would all be making a decent profit on our jobs....sometimes figuring out the problems and fixing them and hearing the engine purr like a kitten is our biggest reward..Hell of a job sir and well documented ! I hope the customer appreciates all your time and good work, I know the car does, lol
Hi thanks for the comment yes some times It's hard to charge all the time in a job I really like what I do and most of the time I like the challenge of fixing thing instead of just putting new parts I'm driving this car for a couple of days to see if all is good for now the engine runs like new .
V10PDTDI
Did you say the oil temp was a little high ? Were you concerned about this?
Hi what I meant is that in the repair manual they say that to test oil pressure is to bring it to 80 deg cel. If the temp. Is higher or lower it will affect the oil pressure meaning if it is over 80 deg cel. The pressure will be lower and less than 80 deg cel then the pressure will be higher the oil temp. In the video was somewhere 98 deg cel. And pretty close to what the coolant temp. Is it is normal because there is a oil cooler (oil to coolant) so the heat of the coolant will heat the oil to a certain level the normal coolant temp. When driving the car should be between 90 to 100 deg cel. When idling it would go to around 105 to 110 the radiator fan should start under 110 deg cel. In the summer when driving very aggressively the oil temp. Could go up to 130 deg cel or more and the coolant would be much lower than the oil.
Not sure but well worth the effort because if you replace the engine with a used one the chance of getting on with the same issue is high and repairing the dealers way is way more expensive and it will happen again.
Great job! Nice diagnostic and repair on this motor.
You have to wedge that tool in all the way in so the cams don't
move anymore, turn the exhaust cam until the tool fits properly then secure the tool with the bolts to the cam girdle. only after that the cams won't move anymore. I've done several cam jobs(HP fuel pump lobe fail , chain tensioner fail) and never had a problem with the tool.
Good job though.
I'm a Master Audi Tech, worked for Audi before I started working for myself....was a Volvo tech before that...anyway, cheers man, good job, great videos!
kinderutz hat's off to you man, reccomendations for best software on euro cars for fixes? I've used shop key and it's been the best so far.
Thank you for taking time to document the process
Great series of videos. Im proud i have some one like you as a who takes litle bit of time to check as a real tec not a part fitter.
this is simply an outstanding video . I reference it often to send to others who are having timing issues after chain replacement and feel the tool is absolutely correct.
thanks for the kind words you are right about the tool I was surprised that even when using the factory tool you can get it wrong the tool has to feel loose when all is good the good thing about it is that if the timing is off by a tooth it dosen't damages any thing but it's very annoying if you have to take every thing back apart.
Christian EV its also great to have a great canadian contributing to the audi community.
👍👍👍
I like how you used the mirror smart move!
Great series of videos. Quite a bit of work into the car but you take pride in what you do.
too funny .. i just shared your video once again . someone who was asking if the tool was the absolute truth on timing .. glad i was able to share it once again to save someone headaches.
Clive Young thanks for repositioning my video and happy that it was able to help someone using this tool.
You said "consume a little bit" of oil. Talk about an understatement I think the rings were wrong from the factory bit nobody wants to own it due to the cost of them screwing it up. Good video!
78missredrum actually the first generation 2.0l engine consumes very little oil but it's a different story for the generations 2 found in the Audi A4 A5 and Q5 they are really bad for oil consumption up until 2013 or so.
V10PDTDI tell me about it I have a B7 fsi. Granted I don't have the timing tensioner headache but that carbon buildup man lol. Running some Redline Sl this tank, quarter of the way they and the idle has already settled some. Looking at doing the belt on mine soon. Picked this up at 58k, now has 65k. May cut losses and just sell it.
Remember, the hydraulic chain tensioner will aline camshafts after getting oil pressure to it. But i keep watching your video.
What engine flush do u use? What is it called?
Interesting video, thanks for posting.
I'm tackling my cam chain and tensioner this weekend or the next.
I notice the car in this video has the revised intake camshaft (high pressure fuel pump lobe is press-fit) and the revised cam cover. I think mine has the original revision intake camshaft so I'll check to see how rounded/vague the notch is for the locking tool.
thank you soo much for the video I had a mechanic work on my car omg what a nightmare. So my timing skipped a tooth cuz he did not replace the chain and tensioner because he thought it was fine... He changed my intake cam and fuelpump after a follower failiure. So car ran fine for about 8k and all of a suden when i started it the chain skipped. So i was mad and I ended up buying a all the tools including the poly bit 10 socket. I took everything apart. I get to the adjuster and the mechanic had stripped that bolt i guess he tried using a torx bit. Omg what a nightmare. So I have to drill it out. :( I will make a video on how I got it out just incase anyone needs to see what it looks like. i thought he forgot the bolt at first because it looks like he tried to drill it then the steel reinforcement cylinder in the bolt spooked him. omg the cam is so hard to rotate too my tool was bending. When I cranked it with the starter it turned.
Not something you want to do every day for sure actually I had to go back on my own personal car 1 week ago and change the chain , tensioner,and the bolt cuz on mine the dealer had replace the cylinder head and I thought that they had replace it but at the end they reused all the parts the work was done under the Audi extended warranty for the high pressure fuel pump lifter failure when I bought my car from the original owner it was not running it needed the ballencer shaft module I did the conversion to a regular oil pump system from a MK4 VW it's a lot of work but it's way more reliable and cheaper too.
Thanks for the video. I got my head back from the machine shop and I'm getting a p0340 camshaft position error. I'm guessing that I'm off on the belt but from watching your video I might be off a tooth on the timing chain. I hope the machine shop didn't mess up :(
How much is the tork of the bolt of the cam adjuster you said? 20 nm? Are you sure? Not 100 nm ?
Yeah, there is a way you can time the intake cam by the links and the mark on the chain(on the exhaust cam) and the mark on the intake cam.
hi, the cam chain and tensioner on my car broke while stopping at a red light. i've replaced both parts and aligned everything back. now i am getting 150psi on cylinders 1 and 3. but cylinders 2 and 4 has only 90psi with compression test. the car starts and runs but shaking like crazy. can you please tell me something to check for? thank you.
Great jop my friend I have the same problem I hoppe this video help me a lot thank you for do this video👍👍
what a great tool they made ... good job
What brand laptop? The touch screen seems handy.
excellent job. but how did you fix the 97 degrees for oil temp? it does need to be 80 normally, was it because you didnt have some radiator fan plugged?
Did you have to remove the VVT sprocket the final time that you adjusted the chain itself by a tooth?
I think I did it’s been a while since I did this job but you must know that the bolt that holds the camshaft adjuster is a one time use Bolt.
great video,,,, do you have any thoughts on why vcds aint showing phase position on my car? or someting i should check, also have p0016, belt timing is spot on and also chain timing is on as well. made sure my cams looked like the ones here and followed the instructions on the job, ps , had code before this, also changed cam and crank sensors, im thinking maybe the n205 or the wiring to it? my cam adjustment is around 33-35 when spec is suppopsed to be at 28, also when i unplug the n205 these values dont change, thanks for any help,,,
Im dealing with code P0087 and P2297 i think, not sure on the las code number, let me know if any tips or experience w it. Or any tips. Thanks
Very detailed video. Thank you
Good video. I could not fit the cam locking tool in! everything is at tdc. I put everything back in place lol. Any ideas why this is would be great to know more.
5:20 it's called a Polydrive
Thaanks awesomee tips who nobody tell , whats the block no 93 correect KW? please for tfsi i need to change distribution agian
wonderful job....how long did you do that job?or,may be could you predict how many working hours was spent for doing this?
Why would you put 15W-40 when this engine calls for 5W-40 that meets VW spec. 502.00?
I only use this oil to flush the engine because this oil is less expensive but I refilled the car with the proper oil after the flush.
Hie Sir thanks for the video but i have one quick question where do you mount a oil pressure gauge?
Hi you have to remove the oil pressure switch that it’s on the plastic oil filter housing it’s close to the Turbocharger oil feed line the screw the appropriate oil pressure gauge with the correct thread then make you oil pressure test.
3:10 One fourth of a turn is 90 degrees, not 45 degrees. Hopefully you still used the correct torque.
5/40 oil is because of where you live mate. snow outside, so thats why its 5/40
its audi Spec.
5:14 It's a torx, an "external torx", so, "e-torx". It uses the torx pattern, but the pattern is on the bolt, not on the tool, and the tool nut has the shape of what normal torx bolt have.
Gábor Bérczi hi the tool is called a Ribe not Torx here is a link of one at ECS tuning it’s the same type used for the camshafts adjuster that is Bolted to the exhaust camshaft. www.ecstuning.com/b-cta-tools-parts/1-2-drive-ribe-bit-socket-9mm/cta9260~cta/
Hey there my intake cam is saying i at 58 degrees at idle
does this mean it needs to go forward (left) or back (right) 1 or 2 teeth?
Hallo, ist das gleiche Motor als VW Touran 2.0 FSI , Benzin, Baujahr 2005 ?
Hi Mate! Nice job! I have an issue on my 2.0 TFSI. On Intake B1 spec is at 28deg and actual at 29/30 degrees. The problem is that remain all the time fixed at 28 the spec and the actual. On group 94 the screen shows "Test Off" all the time. I've changed the solenoid n205, is working properly, 9.8volts on the connector at ignition start, and 12volts with command activated. What do you think? It's time to open the vvt cover and see what's going on there on the seals, chain and actuator? Thanks
Hi great video series thanks for posting. Just curious, did you ever put the old oil filter back in to confirm it was the cause of the low pressure?
Mike's Garage Hi no I did not put the filter back in I was happy that the oil pressure was ok but now I know even if the customer tells me they have a new filter I don't care I will put the brand of filter that I use and have no such problems it did not happened since.
Does anyone know the exact chain spacing between cam timing marks?
Your videos is so helpful.
Question? Everyone talks in video about cam sprockets but how in the heck did you bolt holding in the exhaust cam sprocket next to the tensioner
Rotibajan hi I’m not too sure what you are asking but if you are talking about the exhaust sprocket/camshaft adjuster then it’s bolted to the camshafts on the end with a bolt but it’s guided with a alignment pin so you can only install it one way but if one of the cams are not positioned right then the timing will be off and then the check engine will come on.
"so I had to remove the valve cover and check the timing of the 2 cams and the intake cam was off by on tooth I'm pretty sure that they were ok when I set them on the bench but they might of skipped when I started the engine with no oil pressure" Ha-ha! It is not able to skip. You were wrong. You can see at 9:00 that the cams are not in the right position.
When the slack in the chain got taken up by the tensioner it moved the intake cam. On the bench they were lined up the intake lobe is pointing the same as exhaust. At 9:00 head is already on the car.
Would you happen to know how many links are between each cam timing mark?
I have a 2010 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro with the same problem. How much does a job like this cost? PLEASE HELP
Hey bro i've. Been looking for help i have a audi a4 quattro. 2.0Turbo 2007 and its burning a lot of oil the smoke coming. Out of the muffler its blue and really dense i did some research. And could be the turbo the rings the cilinders that maybe. Worn already or the seals on the motor i actually. Don't. Have a clue of what could be the problem but the motor seems to be like cloaked n it doesn't. Has the same power that used to have and it gets to hot real quick when u open the cap where u put the oil on the motor its always really hot and i have like. Vapor coming. Out of it all the time when i drive i really need some advices or someone. To tell me what could be wrong with it so i could buy the correct replacement part for it and get over it because. I can't. Really sleep thinking. About that maybe im gonna drive it and im gonna melt the engine. Or something. I would really appreciate. If u reply. Back thanks and good video !👍👌
the tool for the head bolts is 'Ribe' .
1973Robski now that you say it I remember you're right
Polydrive
Hi, I got my head rebuilt, and I got the Vag-Com software to check my car because it did not feel well. Mainly, my car is misfiring on cylinder 1 and 3 ( in the misfire count mode in Vag com ). The more I rev the engine the more misfires I get. The cam values are as shown on your video 27.5 - 28 at idle. Do you have an idea of what the fault could be? Thank you
Hi did you check all connectors vacuum hoses did you interchange the coil and plugs ?
Thank you for your advice. I was getting the P0299 and p0301 codes together. After taking a closer look of the vacuum hoses I realized that my Vacuum Pipe for Brake Booster with Check Valve was cracked. I went ahead and replaced that and my car feels more responsive and the CEL hasn't comeback.
Great video!
how many days/hours did the job take?
It's 18 links to count from the marked one.
Took car to a shop, they pulled out the head, and to replace with a new head, they said with a new cylinder head, timing chain yada yada yada, they still would need to pull out all the internal parts of the cylinder head to “time” them (valves, rocker arms…) = $3,000 worth of labour. Is that true? Does a new head (from Eurotuning) with all internal parts installed, excluding the camshafts need to be stripped and done again? if yes what parts? I feel like I’m being extorted. Because this other shop says it’s all a bunch of lies; that you can just slap it on, what needs to be timed is the timing chain (duh) to the cams, and to torque down the rockers and other parts. And are obviously charging less labour, but I want a mechanic I can trust that they know what they’re doing.
Hi if the cylinder head is new or rebuilt then the only thing that has to be timed is the two camshafts via the small timing chain in the back of the cylinder head and then put the cams in the correct relationship with the pistons that is done with the correct installation of the timing belt. The camshafts,valve lifter,spring etc .... doesn’t need to remove if the head is new or rebuilt .
keep up the good work mate I'm just in the procces of changing the chain and tensioner on my 2009 s3 what a nightmare lol. Did you manage to get the tensioner off without removing the chain?
+tony Cunningham yes I did remove the chain and cam adjuster.
which brand of headgasket do you recommend? Elring, Viktor or OEM AUDI/VW? do I need OEM or Elring works as well?
Any European brand or OEM is fine theses cars are not hard on head gaskets it they are not overheated or installed properly.
my engine shakes quite a bit any idea what it could be? it doesn't have the tensioner sound around the radiator, bit it does tick a bit around the middle of the engine
I have the same issue. Its noisy as..
what was your bill for this work, you spent a lot of time on this ?
salut , je viens juste d'acheter une 2007 a4 , le camshaft du cotez guache s'est briser comme rien! , je vais demonter la tete pour decouvrir le domage ! une bonne (si bonne) chose c'est que cet arriver a un stop et non en vitesse ! merci pour tout l'info ! et ta trouver les outil pour la tete?
Marc van der poelen merci pour le commentaire pour les outils peut-être Amazone ou E bay ?
Great info man great job
Great video series. I have a somewhat similar issue with my 2001 a4 1.8tt. low pressure sensor light over 1700rpm. Oil pressure @ 750 rpm and oil 200F in 19-23psi range and at 2000rpm 29-32psi @ 225F. cylinder compression 1(front of car) @ 165psi, 2@145psi, 3@140psi and 4(Back at fire wall) 160PSI, minimum allowable is 101psi and maximum difference from highest to lowest is 30@% so within this tolerance but not ideal but I'm OK with it. Since I have oil pressure as measured where pressure sensor is located just above the oil filter, i do not think oil pump is an issue. No other codes have been thrown. I am starting to see smoke in the exhaust and oil pressure warning light flashes. What would you look at next? remove cover and valve cylinder head and inspect next? or go the oil pump balancer route? other.
Some more background
Issues showed up 2 days after an oil and filter change going on a long drive, oil light came on and started to lose power and engine got louder. May just be a coincidence that is was close to the oil change. Sounds quite now in the garage but I'm only idling for testing purposes, keeping it below 2000rpm. Seeing some exhaust smoke a new symptom. 2 months ago replace cam chain tensioner and it eliminated clicking noise at idle. 1.5 yrs ago, replaced oil pick-up tube(old one was clogged with hard burnt oil impeding oil flow and presssure), timing belt, tensioner, water pump and thermostat all replaced, had valve cylinder head inspected machined, honed valve seats and new valve. Cleaned out deposits.
Looking to see what I should look at next.
Any suggestions/help is appreciated.
Where do I find the specs of the oil pressure?
How much would this kind of job cost?
youlittlerocket dealer like $3500 indi shop like 2500 and me $1500 lol
Ivan Giraldo where are you located?
Eddie ElCabezon
Orlando Fl my friend.
Ivan Giraldo I'm gonna need you to do this to my Audi no joke I live in Orlando as well
Hi, I have a an Audi A4 B8 2011 1.8T the mechannic change the pistons, rings, etc.. because the car was throwing oil on the exhaust pipe and consumed 1/4 of oil every 200km, now 20 days after delivered my car by the mechannic, the car makes a noise as if a diesel engine, my mechanic says that the oil does not rise and noise is caused by motors balancin because are not lubricating... the other thing is the oil light not comes on, and the car has no failure, only the noise... any Idea?
Do you know if the timing chain and tensioner had been replaced ? Is the sound coming from the front of the engine ? Close from the radiator .
You need the audi locking tool little things are different between audi and vw
If you go for a test drive and the specified and actual are very close of each other then you should be ok.
Do me a fabor please, wat is the socket# for remove the exaust camshaft timing chain sprocket. thanks.
Hi the tool I have is made by AST tools no. Is VW 5220 this is the tool for removing the timing adjuster unit I think the style of bit is called ribe.or poly drive no. 10
Thanks, have a great day.
is there room to change the cam chain timing with out removing the gears and just removing the chain tensioner? i think we did the same problem getting a code p0016 so i think we need to move the intake timing 1 tooth but i hope to change the cam timing just by removing the chain tensioner.
+Jane Valerio I don't think that the tensioner is removable without having to remove the timing gear/adjuster off the camshaft I don't think that you have access to all bolt to the tensioner if you manage to do it let me know .
+V10PDTDI I know a fair number of people on Audi forums end up removing the cam cradle and pivoting one of the cams around to remove the chain. Usually they tend to round out the Ribe bolt head in the cam adjuster, often when trying to undo it with a Torx bit (silly idea). At the VW dealer I use the correct tool is roughly £10, a small price to pay to avoid messing with the cam cradle.
+V10PDTDI I know a fair number of people on Audi forums end up removing the cam cradle and pivoting one of the cams around to remove the chain. Usually they tend to round out the Ribe bolt head in the cam adjuster, often when trying to undo it with a Torx bit (silly idea). At the VW dealer I use the correct tool is roughly £10, a small price to pay to avoid messing with the cam cradle.
What was the fault you received in regards of the cam being off? P0010?
Hi the fault for the misaligned intake cam was 000022 = to P0016 bank 1 CMP sensor /engine speed sensor G28 incorrect correlation . i set up the cam in the right position and the fault code never came back but if the cam timing is off on the exhaust side meaning on the cam sprocket the fault might be different not sure ?
V10PDTDI that's the one a got as well. Redone the cam timing all is good.
camshaft plug seems driven in a little too far 18:12
CoolAirVw Hi you are right but it doesn't seems to affect it in anyway no oils leaks .
Lots of informarion on this video , thanks
How much is this job?
Hello hey I would like to know were I can buy all the parts for all motor. Like pistons. And all that Kaind a parts
Rolando Romero it depends most of the parts are a available from specialty European parts supplier that we have an account with but they don’t sell to normal customers just repair shops but if you are from Canada or the USA we could sell you the parts that you might need also some parts are only available at VW or Audi dealers.
The golf 2.0fsi cylinder head is exactly the same as this. I am fitting mine now after it was reconditioned with valves changed, stems, skimmed, pressure tested, basically everything. Anyway there's a couple of things I have noticed straight away. 1st being that the cylinder head tightening sequence in the haynes manual is completely different to the one you worked from. starts at 1 in the centre then two opposite, 3 back one and left then four across two and up, 5 behind and six diagonally opposite. Strange eh? Ok so the 2nd issue being that when the cam cutouts are facing one another, and with the tool (Cheap one from EBAY) fitted, straight away I notice the timing mark on the timing belt pulley does NOT align with the mark on the backing plate screwed to the cylinder head. Very Worrying. What would you imagine could be causing this?
James Barratt Hi it possible that I wasn't following the exact torque sequence I don't think it makes a big difference as long as you start from the centre and you go in a X pattern so you are saying that the tool that you bought has the two rounds edge pointing to the middle not pointing to the outside or towards both camshafts.
Im doing the timing again today on my 2.0fsi. Running it after cylinder head rebuild I'd driven it 300 miles but saw fault code cam crank correlation. It came once only. I reset codes several yimes and saw it just the once. The code i was getting alot was intake camshaft slow response. I have turned my intake camshaft slightly and after spinning the engine by hand numerous times, the intake valves do not open to crash into piston 1. So im going to open the adjuster and see if i force it to advance if the valves still miss the pistons. If so I guess im going to reassemble and see how she runs. Where do you plug in the oil pressure tester? I see in your video the pipe from your tester going somewhere in to the right of the intake manifold.
James Barratt Hi the cam fault slow response I think could be cause from a low oil pressure the oil pressure gauge is screwed in the place where the oil pressure switch is located its on the oil filter housing on the back of the engine. Other things that could cause the slow response from the camshafts adjuster is the adjuster itself it's bolted on the exhaust cam it could be worn or dirty an other thing to check is the solenoid that actuate the adjuster or the 3 rings on the cover could be worn and bleeding oil pressure etc ...
Those washers in cam chain cover changed. The adjuster changed. The passages inside cam cover cleaned. The control valve changed for oem. Just rebuilding now.
Cant for the life of me see the oil pressure switch. Mines a golf mk5 so oil filter unit at the front. I have the intake manifold off and nothing in the way to stop me seeing the oil unit. Cant see the the oil pressure switch or sender unit.
Did you replace the water pump, oil strainer oil pump ?
ANDY WAN i did not replace the oil pump module just remove and inspect and clean the main problem was a bad cheap aftermarket oil filter.
hey what was wrong? suffers from the same faults changed the oil pump and filter holder
Simon Dahl hi I think that the engine had over heated the cylinder head was warped there was some burned valves and the head gasket was blown between 2 cylinders and the oil pressure was caused because of an aftermarket filter that the customers had just installed .
I have a 2010 quatro a4 with 150 k miles on it, the engine is locked how can it coast to fix it?
fubu b hi I assume it’s a 2.0 L turbo gas engine then it the timing chain went on it then then most likely the valve are bent then the head will need to be removed and if repairable then it needs to be rebuilt and the piston and connecting rods need to be check for damage then all timing related parts would need to be replaced and if the engine using oil then the Pistons and ring would need to be replaced at the same time I don’t know about cost but it’s not going to be cheap might be cheaper to replace the engine with a used one it you can find a used one in good condition for a good price but it would be important to check with Audi if the donors car had the repair done for the oil consumption with the help of the vin #
At 23:57 it showed
Piston 1. 1
Piston 2. 0
Piston 3. 0
Piston 4. 0
Why did it show up like that?
Misfires are inevitable at some point
Nice and clean profesional job, 👍🏻 question, do the lifters have to be drained?
No you just have to install the with engine oil or asembly lube and in the manual and they say to not start the engine in less than 30 minutes but if you can reassemble the in engine in less than 30 minutes then you are quite good and know more than the tech a a Audi dealer.
@@V10PDTDI thank you very much, chris, great job.
Iam having similar issues with my Audi same year same model i was wondering if you have an email I can message you about what can I do about my Audi
hi, I really need your help, I ACTUALLY followed you videos and did a complete engine job on my 2008 audi a4 quattro2.0t. The oil screen got clog and damage everything. Has everything back together and getting a P0011 code, tried everything, changed the cps, vvt , new oil and no change , if , I clear the code it will not come back until I shut the car of and restart a second time, I am also getting an oil pressure light after running it for about 20 mins. , please help.
Michael Ramlochan one if your cams is off timing by 1 tooth
Good job man.
C'est quoi vos coordonnées? J'ai une A4 2006 avec un P0011
IZEM AGHILES St-Isidore N.-B
Your have to count 19 theet form the marck
Why? What difference does it make? The position of the chain doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is the relative position of the cams.
at the end...how you fix the low oil presure ?
Well the only thing that I replaced that seem to fix the oil pressure would you believe the oil filter the filter was replaced by the owner but it was a aftermarket filter and it was new and not even collapsed . So the moral of the story is to minimum replace the oil filter with a genuine VW or Mann or Bosch etc .
tanks bro...great job !!
also is that a freewheeling engine. meaning that valves won't bend if belt breaks or jumps
How did you clean the pistons? Great job, by the way!
I think I use some throttle body cleaner and a small wire brush and then wipe it clean with brake cleaner and a rag.
V10PDTDI where are you based
Peter Kitcher Think he's in New Brunswick ...or was it Nova Scotia...I forget.
Damn haha, which he was my mechanic!
Good job
Hi I watched all your vids they are vary good ha. I have 2 fsi motors now one in my GTI that needs oil hosing gaskets and on my b8 I just bought is throwing misfires on all 4 cylinders saying the intake cam is advanced lean and cat effency the owner said he changed the water pump and that the cam follower wore throw be it runs just has the cods I haven’t tryed to see if it is coils plugs or carbon build up yet but do u think I can drive the car like a 1 hour drive as I have to move it from the owners house to its parking thanks
Project Build mk5 hi are you sure the Audi is a B8 cause the B8 from what we have here in Canada they never had engine with timing belt so I think you miss wrote any way if the engine is really misfiring then I don’t think you should drive it that way and you should inspect the catalytic converter if the previous owner drove the car wit the engine not running normal then there is a chance that the converter is damaged you will have to check the timing marks on the timing belt side but there is also the timing chain that turns the intake camshafts. Then also if the lifter wore through then the intake cam , lifter and maybe the fuel pump if it has also damage.
V10PDTDI it’s the same year as this one in the vid ya maybe the cat or o2 sen ya I guess just having the timing off would be the best thing I guess wouldn’t really cost anything what if I take the valve cover off and see if the lobs are in the same sorta spots then I would know if it’s the chain or the belt . And ya that’s the other thing I was thinking is maybe it’s lean cus the fuel pump he said he changed the turbo also so can be a vacuum leak also ya it’s a b7 a4 avant
Project Build mk5 ok . Then I would be a good ideal to bring the engine on top dead center on cylinder no 4 with the timing belt masks were it should be then removed the valve cover to see if the timing is off on the belt or the chain side the lean fault could be caused because of low fuel pressure on the high side with a scan tool you could monitor the actual vs specified pressure to see if everything is normal and also check the air flow meter to see if the reading is normal at idle but before that the engine has to run smooth before that.
I changed the chain, an know i have a timing Problem. should be 28.0 KW, and it is -7.0 KW. Can I send you a picture from the head an cams?
Do you still have the problem ?
no i fixed it already. It skipped one tooth. The Camshaft Adjustment spec. is 29.0 , act. also 29.0 sometimes for a ms 29.5. There is a third Camshaft Adjusment (spec.), and it is 28.0 KW. Are these Values ok now? I have made a testdrive, and everything is feels fine. But now I'm not shure with the 29.0 KW....
thanks alot
Why do the 2.0 fsi engines sound like diesels.
Matti Loponen Hi the direct injection engines are noisy because of the high fuel pressure in the fuel rail nothing compared to a diesel but much higher than a port injected engine I think that the high pressure pump ads to the sound too but what you hear is mainly the injectors this is why they put a cover on most direct injection engine I have seen some manufacturers put insulation around the injectors to lower the sound level.
Injector sound Audi VW FSI Injectors HITACHI 079906036C Spray Patterns test
ua-cam.com/video/ZpPDhNKKS7k/v-deo.html
Hi
What is the engine code on the engine??
Thanks
oyx464y
BPY
Thank you anyway!
If you were a locally available mechanic I might consider owning an audi but otherwise no way
Thanks for the compliment but there are chances that you might find a obsessive technician like me in your neck of the woods :-)
Where are u you i want u to work on my car! Seriously though i do have similar problem 2.0tfsi b7 petrol
Je veux de l'aide avec mon passat cc sport j'ai un problème de ligne
pbs agro business linge de quoi ?
@@V10PDTDI j'ai voulu écrire linge mais ligne de passat cc automatique sport essence tsi et merci pour m'avoir répondu vraiment...
Awesome series! Where are you located. I need a lot of work done on my car.
Jeffrey Spitzer thanks I’m located in New Brunswick Canada.
@@V10PDTDI Christian EV: I am in QC city. I am working on the same engine and changed intake cam shaft, cam shaft adjuster plus chain. Still have issues and think to overhaul the engine. Any ideas how I can contact you? I can give you my German email address for leaving your contact details? Any feedback is appreciated!
@@michaeljacobs6507 Hi what is the actual problem now after replacing those parts ? any faults codes or strange noises