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How strong is a single CoreFix fitting in a dot & dab wall?
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2024
- Today I'm looking at some Corefix fixings for dot & dab dry lined walls. These are specifically designed for fixing heavy things to problem dry lined walls. The specs showed Ultimate Axial Tensile Force (pull-out) as:
Dense Concrete Block (1800kg/m3): 0.89kN (90.8kgf)
Aerated lightweight block (600kg/m3): 0.68kN (69.3kgf)
Obviously the above are MAX figures so divide by a safety factor of 7 to get safe loads - see Corefix datasheet for more info.
Impressive stats so time for a pull force test and to see if I can hang my 30kg plasma TV on ONE screw in a dot & dab drylined wall?? CAUTION: Do not attempt to hang a TV using only one screw, obviously.
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#TestTuesday #DIY #Plasterboard
These are great! Suspended an incredibly heavy "floating" unit on the wall - 4m wide and these beauties hold it as tight as you like! Not cheap but that unit is not going to fall down!
You deserve more subscribers. The production values of your videos - and your content - is first rate.
Cheers for the kind words Jay! 👍🛠
I have to agree with you there - I just noticed the suspense music change to a happy tune once the TV was hung. Excellent attention to subconscious detail
Thank You, listened to this the other night, remembered I have a heavy shelf to hang on the dot & dab walls of the extension, ordered them & fitted tonight. They worked like a dream, there must be 50kg hanging of three of these fitting over a metre, and they are as solid as rock. .
used these for absolutely everything in a 1999 house. TVs, mirrors, wall mount desks, wall mount cupboards etc.
Even with the thermalite blocks everything has been absolutely rock solid. Would recommend massively.
They're not cheap at just under £1 each but £4 for the security of knowing your TV will NEVER fall off is well worth it IMO.
Had to laugh to myself (well i am here on my own) when you said its not a sponsored video and you got one of their T Shirts on with their name splashed all over the front of it lol - great demo though !
Cheers - I think they sent me that as a reminder... "you know how you said you'd make a quick vid for us and 6 months later you still haven't done anything?". That. Guilt T-shirt.😂 Is that Eddie? Good one - got that T-shirt. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Good Stuff fella, your channels got me addicted, been watching Scott Brown Carpentry for a while but your channel is just as good !
Hey Andy just wanted to say, I discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been sort of trying to catch up on your output. I am thoroughly enjoying it - in fact it’s canny good man.😀
Ha ha - cheers! Lots more to come! Happy new year Norman! 👍
These are great! FYI the 100kg refers to when 4 are used together and when testing they have managed up to 250kg.
Just used these to mount a corner work desk (office) to a dot dab with block behind, using 4 x 400mm heavy duty brackets... solid!
Just about to fix a 65" Samsung lcd TV up with EIGHT corefix screws do should be well good. Mind you it's on a bracket designed to swing away from the wall about 8 inches, but I'm reassured by the vid. Ta muchly mate!!
I don't think it was a fair representation. The top of the plug will sit on the edge of the plasterboard so the screw will never go as deep as you went. The plasterboard is also important to consider in loading as you're more interested in sheer forces when hanging on a wall.
Wow thank you!!! I was looking for a solution to mount a 30kg radiator to a dot and dab wall without making large holes in the plasterboard. This is definitely the way!
You're a braver man than I doing that ! My heart nearly stopped when you let it go.
Was amased when replacing my TV how light the new one was compared to the old.
Thanks for the explanation on dot & dab... amazing how different construction methods are around the world. I think we overcomplicate things here in the States.
Ha ha - my heart nearly stopped when I let it go too! Knew from the numbers that it should be fine but even so... I like my telly! 😃
This video explains why my 2008 construction house doesn't have studs in the only ajoining walland why random parts sound more dense. I bought a stud detector to find them but couldn't - I'm thinking this is why.
I spent a day with magnets going around my living room looking for studs. I felt like a loon when I realised there were no studs behind the plasterboard, unlike the hallway and the kitchen which had the usual 600mm on centre.
Ha that's incredible! Brilliant vid Andy, will be checking those out thanks for the info!
Cheers for watching buddy!
Hi Brian did you get around to trying our Corefix product out as yet?? Free shipping in the UK at present
This made me go ah! I've been working on the basis of there being only 3 types of walls, masonry, dry wall/Gyproc/plasterboard/hollow and the dreaded lath and plaster (never found an ideal fixing for them).
Great content. I think I need a different solution for 2 reasons. Although my TV is only 16.5 KG the bracket allows the TV to come out from the wall 40cm which I imagine creates a LOT more force. Even worse the concrete blocks are quite soft and also hollow. One of my corewfix screws carried on turning when it reached the bracket hole :(
i don't understand what's the sense for the first test...the whole idea with corefix is to provide a solid fitting when you have a void gap, like in the case of dot&dab plasterboard
These look really good things to get for the tool box a great video thanks 😊
Thanks for advice works perfectly for our TV bracket jobs keep up good work and great advice Regards Flatpack guys
just grabbed some of these from Screwfix....brilliant!
I’ve bought both length options and used them on a couple of jobs now. I find however careful I am the tops pop off the plastic plug when I’m tapping the metal tube in. Don’t think they are nearly tough enough for hammering in the tube when it’s Into tough block.
Good video, thanks. Have any of you viewers/commenters used these fixings to install a shotgun safe on a dot & dab wall? I believe the inspection by the police involves the FEO trying their best to pull the cabinet off the wall and I’m curious if there are up to the job? Thanks.
At the end of the day, it's not all about the type of fixing you use to fix things to dot and dab walls. It's what you are fixing through, so in your case you are spreading the load/pull force over a large area. If you had one of the new vertical radiators on dot and dab even these might not work, as there is no way to spread the force needed to hold the weight of the radiator, as the brackets apply to much leverage to the plasterboard in a very small area.
On the other hand if they used the same brackets as normal panel radiators you would not need to use corefix fixings. The reason I know this, is that I have not long, had to install three of the new tall radiators on to dot and dab walls, and although I got a good fixing, as soon as we, (and I say we as it took two of us to lift them) tried to hang them on the stupid brackets, that come with them, the brackets just crushed into the plasterboard.
In the end we fixed two lengths of 2 x 1 par, painted to match the wall, and hung them on that.
See my latest vid about attaching anything to dot & dab. 👍
This isn't a sponsored video as I stand here in my Corefix shirt !!
Glad I found and watched this vid as you have just fixed the problem I have/had. Cheers. Subbed to your channel.
:'«'4«1;1!‹"$÷/;1
We have been renovating a house and on removing floor to ceiling 70's tiles in the kitchen took most of the plaster with them! We took wall back to brick and dot and dabbed plasterboard. Currently trying to hang kitchen wall cabinets and having no luck. These look exactly what we may be looking for, would you recommend for this, bearing in mind one of the cabinets is a 1000mm and a couple of the 500 ones will be housing a microwave?
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what these are designed for! Good luck with the renovation! 👍🛠
Great video from a fellow Geordie. Your house looks like a Persimmon new build, hope you haven’t had all the problems I’ve had with my new build 🏡😱
Cheers Frankie! Ours isn't Persimmon but I've seen a few horror stories! 👍🛠
I've been working on Persimmon new builds recently. Retro fitting cupboards and the like. I wonder about the standard of house building these days. I know bespoke and smaller developments are probably ok, but the rabbit hutches on new sites are shocking.
Hi dry line is where the longer edges of the boards are tapered & jointing paste with a paper tape is used to "fill" the tapered joints lots of sanding of joints to produce flat surface method generally used on commercial sites boards fixed to metal stud work
Dot & Dab usually domestic setting normal boards or sometimes tapered joints overlaid with jointing mesh tape then wet plaster! Good videos your TV on wall was the wall a soft block?? I fit TV brackets and I hate Thermolite blocks!!
No - normal medium density blocks fortunately! I agree, Thermalite blocks are awful! 👍
Great description of the 2 different methods that I wasn't aware of. Thanks
fair point! Plastered, plasterboard is definitely wet lining.
Americans only use dry line tape and join the edge's and paint it with no skim simalar to how we do office's.
Couldn't of explained it better my self. So many poeple answer when they don't know the answer.👍
What about those brass coloured long screws that my builder says screws straight into the wall (through plasterboard) without plugs and used them to fit my kitchen wall units?
These in theory should work with a pull up bar ? I'm thinking to use a piece of timber to go over the plaster board (dot &dab) and then fix the pull up bar over that. Any comments would be appreciated
Are you allowed to just run a cable behind plasterboard, without it being in a conduit or behind some other kind of protection from being drilled into?
"This isn't a sponsored video by the way" says he wearing a Mettex Corefix emblazoned t-shirt :-)
That said, it is a very good product (and I never got the t-shirt! :-)
Brilliant video well impressed with the fixing.
Cheers EK! 👍🛠
EK let us know if you'd like to try Corefix we're offering free delivery in the UK at present
Hi Andy,
I have recently tried hanging some shelves at my son's flat (attaching to an exterior wall) that was built in the last 2 years. I thought it would be standard dot and dba, only to find that there was a 100mm 'void' to the blockwork. The void appears to be filled with a semi-solid material which feels like a semi-set dry paste and I am assuming is a thermal barrier. Do you have any experience of this kind of structure?
Thanks 😊
Hi. Great video as always. Any chance of doing a video on how to remove these is no longer needed, so they holes can be repaired?
Brilliant, love your reviews
Nice T shirt. Sponsored by any chance? Haha.
Nice test.
Keep em coming. Loving these tests
Typically I wrote above comment before you told us you wasn't sponsored. Apologies.
Ha ha - no worries. They sent me the fittings and I did nothing with them for 6 months so they sent me a T-shirt too. 😂👍
I'm putting up some black metal brackets and don't really want chrome countersunk screw heads popping out from the bracket surface. What's the best route here? Can you use a different wood screw (same length, width) with these fixings? Its hard to find 5 x 100mm round headed black screws. Other options? Put a little black cap on each screw head? (i only have 8mm diameter of space on the bracket for that). Or - get cheaper 5 x 100mm chrome screws with round heads and paint them black?
Small tin of hammerite smooth ;)
You mention two types of inner brick wall, which are both softer than brick. Would four of these fixings be strong enough in either brick to support a 22kg tv? Is 120mm better than the 100mm?
I am no plasterer but I would have thought that a dry lined wall refers to the fact that dry plaster board is used instead of undercoat then finish coat plaster directly on the brickwork which was the norm in the past.
theres no plasterboard in this test or the gap from plasterboard to the block. is there a video of a real scenario pull test with dot a dab set up?
I am using a pack of six of these to fit a tv bracket this week. Sadly my internal wall.is this softer internal thermalite brick.
Any advice on drilling into them as I hear they are easy to oversize the holes and therefore not get the right strength?
They say 4 give 73kgs of weight carrying and tv with bracket is only 24-25kgs.
Just out of interest rather than wall bolt anchors like you have used for the tv can you use thunderbolts/contrete bolts straight thru the dot dab into the thermalite block and it works as well?
How do the compare to Rigifix though? I have used both and Rigifix is what I carry - they jet make me feel much more confident
70 kg traction. Then hang the TV and you realize that you apply shear to the screw ... and hope not to cut it off.
The traction value is usable if you put one even below (on which you can rotate the plate towards you). Anyway, good job!
Great vid - very useful. Just moved into new build and looking at heavy duty fixings such as this. The research I have done suggests these COREFIX red or blue fixings work well but I haven' t seen a good vid of someone using them in a real life situation. thank you. On your pull out test I wanted to check if this representative (not criticising you here). I thought the metal sleeve needed to be inserted for 2 reasons. 1:- it offers a solid extension from the block to the o/s edge of the plaster board and 2:- when the screw is tightened with the sleeve in place it forces the fixing to only expand / lock in the block at the end where the sleeve doesn't reach and by doing so may actually offer more resistance to pull out than your test showed. Any thoughts?
Interesting evaluation of this product. I wouldn't trust one screw if there are young children around and the load is quite heavy. The inquisitive person I am wonders if it would make any noticeable difference between a hole drilled with wood drill and masonry drill bit, in breeze block.
This was just for a laugh - wood bit prob fine for breeze block but will go blunt quickly. 👍
I've used Rigifix in the past to hang a 12u comms cabinet full of network gear on dot and dab and its not budged a bit. Unfortunately the outer-facing walls of my house are 50mm insulated plaster board so i have a much wider gap to bridge, any suggestions for that situation besides cutting a hole in the wall and popping some wood in to fill the void?
Love the DSLR 👍😄
Cheers Gary - makes such a difference! Do you use a GoPro? I've got problems with the audio not being in sync - got a support call with them at the mo. It's doing my head in! 😆
Gosforth Handyman just uploaded a video just now but rejected for being too long. It's a good job I've not got a rejection complex 😄
Yes I use gro pro a lot but the quality is not as good as the DSLR 👍😄
Gosforth Handyman trying again to upload 👍👀
You'll have to check if your GoPro is properly in sync. I only noticed when I was hammering something and it just didn't look quite 'right'. Checked the footage and the video is a good 3 frames behind the audio. Now I'm aware of it I'm watching for it in other people's vids. I can't be the only person with this problem! Going to watch your new vid now... 👍😃
"This isn't a sponsored video"... So you plugged their er, plugs and all you got was that lousy tee-shirt? :-)
It is impressive performance into low density block though. What's the crack with the "shield" liners? is that to transfer the shear force from the plasterboard to the blockwork? How deep do they go into the block?
I got some free plugs too! 😂 Medium density block - no way I'd trust that TV on one screw in Thermalite 😀. The liners bridge the cavity - screws are 100mm - bit more info here: www.corefixed.com/ 👍
Great video, many thanks.
I suppose the fact that you don't use base coat when plastering boards, means it's dry, so maybe that's why some refer to dot and dab as dry-lining. I can't think why else they would.
Have used Dryline Pro previously, will give these a go for my next installation. I like a tight fit, would they work with an 8mm hole lad. Cheers in advance.
I'm the same - I seem to remember trying an 8mm hole and it didn't fit. Might work in Thermalite or something soft but in normal blocks I snapped the plug. 😀
Gosforth Handyman cheers, I’ll stick to the 10mm then..Thank You..
Hi Alistair did you get to use our Corefix product as yet, if so be good to have a review - thanks
Metex Online yes, they worked a treat. Thank you Metex..
Andy, just going through some of your older videos. Not sure if this is common in Australia, possibly in town houses/units etc. Have to wonder, where is the damp barrier and is there any insulation, or is this only used on adjoining walls?
Hi Andrew - have a look at my vid about how UK houses are built - basically outer layer of brick then insulation then inner layer of blockwork then the plasterboard is glued (dot & dab) to the blockwork. 👍
Cool! I'm just about to move into a new build with 'dry lined' walls, I saw it before painting and yes looked like dry board and then was taped at the joins.... so these would be a good fixing?!
I have Thermalite walls, but plastered over as opposed to dot and dab. Would these fixings still be suitable for hanging a TV on without the plasterboard?
If not, do you reccomend any suitiable fixings for Thermalite blocks?
If it is plastered directly onto the blocks then I'd treat it more like a solid wall, no need for a fixing like this with the internal metal sleeve. That said, these will work just as well as any other similarly sized plug&screw in that scenario.
Nice video! - How are the power socket cables fed in dot & dab? Vertical? I want to mount my TV on the wall on a new build.
Vertical 👍
I know this is 2 years old, but I should point out that while cables are _usually_ run vertically (in line with sockets, _or_ within 150mm of a corner of the room) they can also be run *horizontally* and still be compliant with regs if they're inline with a socket or 150mm from a ceiling.
Hi, i have anew build and need to hang a new TV ( sony ZG9 ) that weighs 76KG onto a dot and dab with thermalite blocks behind, would this work? i have a 600mm braket on there at present with 6 corefix heavy duty anchors on, current TV is 36KG and is fine, but obviously i need to be sure it wont fall off - if not these, what would you reccommend please? great videos by the way
Wow - that's heavy! I'd consider chemical fixings specifically designed for thermalite for something that weight. 👍
Do you have a video of how you traced the wires through the wall 👍
I am planning on using 6of these to mount a heavy punch bag bracket. I am going to use a 35 kg bag , do you think that should be okay?
I've just bought some of these, can you tell me what size washer you used for the testing? I'm guessing M5 as the screw supplied are 5mm?
The TV bracket I have doesn't have standard screw holes so I need to use washers as well.
Zip lock wall anchors will crush these. Holds around 100 lbs more (around 40 kilos) assuming your plaster board is as strong as what is standard in America. (130 cm thickness). They list the standard as 1/4 of max as accepted weight but per use with handicapped devices like fall prevention hand holds etc. 1/3 is up to code.
You might have the wrong end of the stick. My test did 88kg in Thermalite and in concrete they'd do 300kg+ (past what my test rig can handle - 600+lb). Zip lock are for hollow walls. This is a solid wall with dot & dab.
Gosforth Handyman sorry I probably misunderstood. Was talking about mounts to drywall. These anchors are also what we would use in framed shower walls when we couldn’t add (190 mm equivalent plywood or 380 mm equivalent lumber to a predetermined mount location). When just in drywall these support max 265 US pounds. 99%+ of the jobs I have worked on over the past 15+ years have had walls that are framed and covered in drywall or were brick homes with metal mesh and plaster finish. So in masonry I use red head and in drywall/ cement board I use zips.
Why do you drill the tv bracket hole twice ? Thinking of using these thanks
I see the corefix is only rated for 10mm thick brackets. What if your item to be attached is over 10mm. Like a wooden coat rack for example.
They also do a "PLUS30" version where the screw has an additional 30mm length but the plug is unchanged afaict
I might have worn glasses doing that test 😂. And I might have avoided leaning right in to read the meter 😣.
My house is DnD construction. I've been using these corefix for years now my wash basins in cloakroom, en-suites and master bathroom are all 38kg a piece and hung using sinkfix wall plates with 15 corefix screws per plate yeah I have a few screws in my walls....😆
I do have to say I'd think the walls will fall before the wash basins come loose.
I'd highly, no, I'd strongly urge anyone in a DnD constructed build to use the corefix system worth every £0.84 per plug/screw price tag
(24 per box
x 0.84p each
= £20.16 ... per box of 24 fixings).
One important thing I would point out though, not all walls are block lined on the internal walls especially.
If your internal walls are less than say 120 -130mm wide (measured at a door opening and then deduct door frame protrusion beyond the wall surface) then the chances are that your internal walls are stud framed and NOT DnD. That said you can be pretty certain that your external walls will be DnD onto blocks.
Internal walls above 150mm will more than likely be block with DnD.
To confirm if stud framed or block get a rare earth magnet (neodymium) and find a solid sounding area of wall and slowly and lightly pass the neodymium magnet over the wall.
If it does not jump from your hand its a block wall, if it jumps and sticks its a stud framed wall with nail or screw fixings. Test over a wide area usually 16 inches either side of a nail or screw detection. If you find another within a few millis (20-30) then you have confirmed its a stud framed wall. Trace up the wall from a discovered screw/nail to your desired height and mount what needs fixing to the stud or noggin.
Hope this helps someone
P.s. Google neodymium magnets to buy one as a simple fridge magnet wont cut the mustard.
What would you suggest for fitting tvs to plaster board walls in new builds with the metal stud wall systems? The duopower fischer plugs look like the answer. Your thoughts? Thanks
Scott Mclean if you can fix to the metal stud, use galvanised metal self tapping screws. Where it’s just hollow plasterboard go for some drywall anchors AKA umbrella fixings which expand behind the board with a special tool.
These look great but can't find them in likes of screwfix.
Would a longer version of a normal plug work the same? Iv got the thick grey plugs which are about 10mm diameter and about 50-60mm length. So I'm thinking these should pass through the plasterboard and into the block? Thanks again
Can do - depends on the block type. You've got to watch for the plasterboard giving way when you tighten normal plugs up - the Corefix fittings solve this issue on dot & dab. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman thanks. This dot an dab is a nightmare. Causing serious issues
@@GosforthHandyman could I use the nylon frame fixing to secure tvs and other objects to dot and dab wall? Screwfix stock a variety which I think might be the answer. Cheap and easy to get hold of
Real good video.
Cheers Suj! 👍
dry lining refers to sticking plasterboard to bock work or tacking it to stud work
But didn't the term 'dry lining' come from taping and jointing rather than a full wet plaster skim? That's what I heard anyway, might be b0llox. 😂
No tapeing and jointing is just an alternative to skimming! Its just called dry lineing as the plaster boards are a dry surface.
I've seen in described both ways - www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Dry_lining "...a 'wet' plaster finish is not required. Dry lining requires less technical expertise than traditional plastering and required little water, hence the term ‘dry’ lining."
Gosforth Handyman I think it is a comparative term and should really be called ‘Less Wet’ - compared to the ‘traditional’ scratch, bond and finish coats which for a standard size room had a gazillion bucket fulls of water that then had to dry out as opposed to dry lining where whatever ever you do to achieve finish is going to take a lot less water - maybe two buckets worth.
@@GosforthHandyman Persimmon new builds with dot &dab on external walls, and stud work on internal walls are not skimmed, just taped and jointed. Well, that the case on the one's I've been working on lately.
i need to wall hang a sink on aac block, do you recon these are the best bet?
Will the tv hold up with one red wall plug?
Awesome video. Rigifix brought me here.
I think its called drylining cause they are lining the walls with drywall sheets. in NZ i remenber it being called gib lining cause we call them gibboard i think gib is the brand of plasterboard, then a taper and jointer plasters the joints then its good to paint after sanding the joints. Its only in the UK where you skim a perfectly good wall with multifinish, never seen multifinish before in my life until i came to the UK.
Yup - totally agree. I think it picked up the name drylining elsewhere in the world where they do what you're saying. Then in the UK for some reason we give it a full wet skim... and still call it drylining. 👍😂
@@GosforthHandyman while you are online, i have a blown dot and dabbed wall, any ideas how to fix it without removing the plasterboard?
Blown dot & dab? Never seen that. You get dot & dab over here - what's the blown bit?
@@GosforthHandyman some of the adhesive has popped off the back wall. I can push the plasterboard wall onto the brick by only 1-2mm
@Jules Moules i was going to do that but was not sure if it was going to work.
I anchored the blown areas with corefix fixings and then skimmed the wall with multifinish to cover the screwheads.
you'd want two on that tv if for levelling it than nothing else.
Would these hold a 40inch tv on a cantilever bracket?
4 snap toggle bolts holding up 60lbs + of tv and wallmount on drywall/metal studding what you guys think?
A flat-to-wall bracket should be fine - a cantilever one would be risky... but if you're in to studs you should be fine. 👍
I really liked your dust tray how can i make this or buy ?
Looks like the bottom half of a plastic 4pt milk bottle
These are very expensive compared to the Dryline Pro fixings when used in larger numbers, but still give reliable results.
The key bit with the Corefix is the metal liner 👍
The key bit with DrylinePro is it does not need one!
Dry lining in ma opinion is just gypie rather than lathe n plaster or plastering blockwork
lol like good fixings particularly the steel core. The competitor does not have that.
The competitor would be Rigifix, And it does have a steel core, in fact these are exceptionally similar to Rigifix
Hi Fixings Factory would you like some samples of Corefix to try??, sales@metexonline.com Rigifix is a good fixing but Corefix is quicker to install on site
I can give them a go yes, i will email you now.
Can i get these in usa i could use this ?
Not sponsored? What about the t-shirt your wearing?
Er... they gave me a T-shirt?? 😂
How come you have a corefix t shirt on? If you are not sponsored???
Because they sent me a T-shirt.
@@GosforthHandyman nice one. Great channel. I think I'll try wearing a Bentley t shirt,and see if they give me one
Did they give you tshirt as well lol
Thanks for video but you are from the Corefix yourself so you would give the demo which may be bit bias surely. Your t shirt says it all.
How does this compare to Rigifix?
Rigifix are far better imo
Have you tried rigifix drywall anchors?
Yes - they're decent! 👍
Gosforth Handyman they can hold upto 140kg
Dot and Dab is a pain in the ass when your wanting to add Spurs and fused spurs to a ring main.
For some reason whoever puts the Dot And Dab on always puts masses of the stuff right where the sockets are and new sockets are going.
Bloody annoying as hell.
"This isn't a sponsored video..." - he says after 15 minutes of demoing how good they are and wearing the branded t-shirt. LOL!
Expect a free supply for a year :-)
Nope, not sponsored - they sent me a shirt and 1 pack of fixings. Not paid a penny to make this vid.
@@GosforthHandyman just teasing. Good videos. Would like to see a bit more cabinet making. I always admire folks who put such effort into making high quality content and your spreadsheets are a refreshing addition. Thanks. (Although I'd never admit to my wife that I happily watch 20 minute videos about screws!)
dry lining just meaning plaster board and skim rather than rend and skim
Depends where you are! 👍👍
I wish dot and dab method was banned, cursed and kittens sacrificed even for thinking about it.
You're not really testing it correctly as the core part is missing
?? The core part isn't missing.
god I hate dot and dab.
Ha - I've learned to love it! 😂
Not a sonsored video yeah right, corefix plastered all over his shirt
😂👍😂 Corefix sent me a shirt. 😂
as i said sponsored , unsponsored means you recieve no gratification
I didn't receive any gratification. 😂😂😂 Although the feel of the soft cotton on my skin was quite gratifying I guess. Do you like the feel of soft cotton on your skin? 😍😍😍
I don't understand people who buy new build houses. If the interior walls aren't brick, walk away
Why? Interior walls of houses haven't been brick for a long, long time.
@@GosforthHandyman 1960s house here... It's block rather than brick for internal walls... Awful