The zip toggles are definitely my favorite. The issue I have with the metal wing style is that you can’t take the screw out and re-use the anchor - it will just fall into the wall. The zip toggles are nice in that you can remove the screw and the plastic supports keep everything in place.
The metal zip ones are fundamentally weaker design too as relying on a joint in the center where there would be most leverage. The zip toggles are so clever as they push through one solid piece of metal. The zip ones are waaaaayyyy cheaper though so losing a few in the wall doesn't add up to much 😂
@@JohnSmithh644 Correct. What I was thinking about was the two instances where I used a hollow wall hanger - only to have it blow out in use (accidental pressure). Should have cut the sheetrock and added a block.
So here's a little bit of engineering involved in these tests. I'm not discrediting the test but there's a tricky part of wall friction that's playing a big role in the way this test was done. Since those weights look like rubber or plastic and drywall they actually have a pretty high coefficient of friction. I'm not exactly sure what but we can guess maybe 0.5 to be conservative. As weight gets added on and the total weight is displaced outward, an equal and opposite force is applied by the wall normal to its surface equal to sine of the angle of the center of mass, or about half the angle of the weight furthest out. I'd estimate on the 200lbs scenario that angle is about 75 degrees so the center of mass is around the 30 degree mark just to be conservative. The equation for friction is pretty simple, the normal force times the coefficient of friction. Friction = sin(30)*weight * uf So 0.5*200*0.5 = 50 lbs of friction is reducing the downward weight on that scenario There's obviously a lot of weight pulling outward on these tests, equal to about the center of mass times the weight or about 100lbs actually, and these drywall anchors typically fail that way instead of down by design. And also obviously these tests are comparisons anyway so I don't know why you took the time to read my long winded comment. Cheers!
I read your entire comment, knowing I had no clue what you were saying. I read till the last word. You’re really smart! Too late for my brain to function like that ever, but I hope my 6yr old son is into engineering one day! Ciao!
Ben, your child like excitement in making these videos keeps me coming back for more.... I've learned so much from you technically, and you sure make it fun to watch with you.... I can picture a bunch of 10-year-olds trying this in their garage and it just makes me smile! For the record I go with the cork screws and toggle bolts most of the time and I'll give the zip toggles a try too! I hate the metal ones as well!
Honestly, the screw in anchors are my go to. If I'm gonna put anything on the wall or ceiling that needs to hold more than 65lbs I'm aiming for studs. Those zip tie anchors are pretty neat though!
pretty much my take as well. I can reliably get them to work to that standard as well. I think that's something he showed pretty well in this video as well, especially with the metal pound in ones. Why use them?
Fun video! Best way to set a moly is with the proper moly setting tool. (Pistol style grip tool) Drill the hole, insert the moly, back out the screw a little, use the tool to expand the metal tabs and compress to the Sheetrock. Then back out the screw completely to attach what your mounting with the same screw. When done properly they hold really well. When trying to use the screw to do this it spins and destroys the front of the Sheetrock and weakens the whole assembly as seen. I prefer Snap Toggles which are similar to the Zip ones you used.
VC!!!! Hi! I'm back to watching your videos. Been in school for the last year. I'm back to renovating, and yes, drywallering around my walls again. Missed visiting the channel and missed ya. I'm back to VC with coffee in the am. It's good to be back. This video is a must share. Learned so much! As always thanking you for everything you do for your viewers. Can't wait to see what's next. Hope you and the family are doing wonderful!
That was fun to watch and informative. I really like the zip toggle bolts and their toggler anchors. A while back I used several zip toggles when installing a closet shelf and hanger bar. I ended up slightly bending the bar when hanging from it to test the zip toggle strength. 😅
GeeFix rep is all, "my name is Samsonite, you are way off!" Awesome video - you are answering the questions I have always had when browsing this section at HD - "will it really hold that much?" "how does that thing even work?" and so on. My brain can rest easy the next time I encounter that section. Thank you!
I can vouch for GeeFix. I had a towel rack that was hanging to the wall by "a thread" due to the previous owner having put a bunch of holes in the drywall with different anchors but then I guess they pulled on the towel rack or something and ripped them out. I had tried a couple of the other ones you tried with no success as there wasn't enough drywall left for them to bite. I saw another UA-camr (Charlie DIY) do a drywall anchor test and he rated the GeeFix the best of the ones he tried so I bought them (back in 2019). That towel rack is very solidly attached to the wall and I've never had a problem with it since.
The reason the third ones were so difficult to install and failed early is because you didn't use the correct tool to install them. You need a special tool to pull the screw out to widen the anchor. When done correctly it should hold just about as much as a toggle bolt.
Correct. Nothing but respect for @vancouvercarpenter otherwise, thus is it made me slightly sad to see it just being hammered into a wall and expected to hold anything without the wings being engaged properly. An M6 of these molly plugs (dry wall expanders) for single layer dry wall are specified for around 88 pounds.
You have not installed that anchor correctly, they are made to be put in with an expanding tool so they expand in a star shape and grip the back of the blasterboard, please get an expanding tool and do the test again, but awesome to see that it holds so much weight even not fully installed @@vancouvercarpenter
FYI the molly bolts you tried using @ 3:23, You use a tool to set them in the wall.. you don't try to screw them in as they just spin. honestly a property set molly bolt is extremely strong. They are my go to when anchoring anything in drywall where there is no stud to hit. edit: I cant post a link in the comments, just search molly bolt tool. They are really cheap and work like how a caulk gun works
That special tool is neat, but if he had just put his Molly bolt screw through the hanging hook first, then attach to the wall, he would have had better results. Not saying it would be better than the zip toggles, cuz those are way better, but if Molly bolts is all a guy has then you had better learn this little trick.
I've used some plastic toggle-style ones all over the house and they have been great. We have some helping to hold up shelving when I couldn't get all the screws into studs and a few to help with towel bars and the like. Very easy to install and work very well, they are just a bit of a pain to take back out.
Been warching your skate channel, but found this other channel accidentally. I have to hang a TV at my church and typed in "TV drywall mounts." Your video helped the most. Cool to find you here, and thank you for the help.
Ok, I rarely comment but damn it, was just fun to watch. Thank you for the giggle. Ima very beginner drywaller, putting up a 137 sheets of drywall. I very much am not enjoying life right now. So this video came perfectly timed. I needed to laugh. So bad😂
Great demonstration, Ben. I agree with all your recommendations and the various anchors you used. I am proud to say that nothing I ever hung on a wall fell down and that's after 60 years since I was born. If you want to add to this demonstration, test all these anchors during a live earthquake. 😅
One intesting thing I do use for hanging pictures are these wires that push through the wall. They do hold way more than expected and putting two one inch apart is no big deal
I used to work for a guy back in the 80s. We did almost exclusively residential work and hung a lot of things on the walls. The only anchors he would buy with those stupid metal ones I hate them.
I've used the larger zip toggles (1/2" I think) in attaching to a concrete panel subfloor and the problem I ran into was that insulation behind the panel made it difficult for the 'nut' part to rotate into the correct position. I found a creative way to push the insulation away from the backside a bit to make some space, but it was a real pain.
Professional TV installer here, been using zip toggles since they came out. Never had a single one fail, in 23 years. For the price and ease of installation, they are a fantastic product.
I use the zip tie style when I'm hanging a heavy. Good for TV mounts if a stud doesn't line up. Currently vexed by a can crusher that has blown out twice now and expecting the corkscrews to do same soon. Molly bolts tough when using multiple behind and backing board.
I use the screw anchors for most jobs up to 50lb, and the Cobra zip anchors for heavier mounting jobs, much quicker and easier than the old style toggle. Thanks for the video!
We have similar to No.3 here in Finland in two different sizes. One with 5mm bolt works kinda like yours, damages the front side of the drywall, etc. Another one with 4mm bolt works just fine.
I used the screw type anchors rated at 100lbs to attach my network cabinet on the wall and so far it's been holding up 3 years. They are by far the best anchors I've used.
First of all, you were having waaaaaaaay too much fun in this video! 😂😂😂 Seriously though, I loved this. It was fun to watch and really great, factual info that I can use. As always, great jog and thanks. 😃👍🏼
The distribution of weight onto the drywall by the anchor determined it's fail. You could tell which held the best by the amount of drywall ripped out of the wall. Love the test. Sleeping in bed under a failing anchor is like having a sword of Damocles hanging over your head.
For whatever its worth - there are setting tools for that metal expander (in Sweden we would call them molly plugs) which really helps to get that full petal expansion (like in the drawing). Its another ~8 USD rougly but if you’ve got loads of drywalls it starts to make sense. Also we dont have the hammer in kinds but rather predrill types…
I think things like this are highly regional. Maybe some areas use them cause everyone does. But in usa and canada we use different ones and why use one with a special required tool if you can get others that don’t require it.
@@conradcoolerfiend you are most definitively correct - although I truly enjoy our Canadian dry wallers videos, it’s often tricky to “translate” - even the spackling tools are different. And even though most of the fasterners showcased in the vid would be available in Sweden as well, I’d say the molly is still one of the most common ones when needing to secure something quite heavy. Guess it comes down to cost and ready availability - from a pure use case perspective I see a few I would rather use… Cost would obviously depend on volumes sold which kinda brings market share and traditions into the mix.
@@conradcoolerfiend Why use a fastener that requires a specific tool. Because they are very easy, very fast and very reliable IF you use the tool. When ya buy these by the box of 100, ya buy the tool, if ya did not get one free.
I ran into the same problem that Vancouver Carpenter did installing those expanding metal anchors, I.e., the stupid ones. found that when expanding the anchor, it works better to place something between the screw head and drywall so that the torque from the screw head is not transferred to the anchor. In this video, the hook could have been used and held in place while driving the screw for the first time in order to expand it. Kind of like how it is done with toggle bolts.
@@dh-jx5yn but there is no way you will set them properly without the tool. with the tool and a tight drilled hole, they bite very well. properly set, for them to pull out you have to pull about 20mm 3/4 inch of plaster out. . They are incredibly strong if you druill thru and set them in a metal stud.
This video is relevant to my interests... seriously I just finished the downstairs and have been starting to hang stuff. Agree The Toggler is the way to go for hanging TV mounts. I have a 26 lb mirror I just hung using the basic plastic ones but they were rated for 40 lbs and seem fine. Those corkscrew ones though, every time I use them they just blow out a hole through the drywall instead of screwing in.
Dude, you are so awesome!! You just seem to have the coolest , most easy going, most wonderful energy about you man. I've watched you now as a carpenter, and a skater, being a skater myself and seriously man, I wish we were friends. Lol you seem like the greatest guy!! Thanks for being you bro!! 👌💪❤️
I carry 4 different anchors, both 40 and 50 lb screw-in (metal, not plastic) and both 3/16" and 1/4" zip toggles. I like the "Toggler" brand from the blue box store, not the ones you get from the orange box store. No, I don't rep the blue store or Toggler brand.
When you say metal not plastic, are you referring to the plastic part on the zip anchors? I have used the zip anchors(Orange Box Store)and the plastic part that you break off once fully press against the wall is way too brittle. Sometimes they break before you get it fully pressed against the wall. They are not cheap either. I stopped using them due to this.
A lot is also dependent on the wallboard. Lightweight board will hold less than regular board. 5/8" rock will hold more than 1/2". I used zip toggles in a wall with doubled-up 5/8" wallboard for a floating shelf. It'll hold a lot of weight. Did the same toggles in a wall with one layer of board, the wall definitely flexes and obviously will not hold the weight that the double layer will. I also turn my toggles so the metal is horizontal, not vertical. If vertical, I feel most of the weight is on the top of the toggle but horizontal, it spreads the load more evenly. I'm not an engineer, but that's my thoughts on it. Anybody else with their ideas on this?
As always - an entertaining video. I can't think of anything heavy that I would hang from drywall. Just go a couple inches over and use a stud. Any of these anchors would easily hold up a picture. I'd consider ease of use, degree of drywall damage, maybe cost.
That was interesting to watch. Dunno about the cork screw ones. I used those before, like three per side for a shelf system in a single layer drywall, and all six ripped out with a load around 9kg.. Was quite disappointed... 😢 Though, a test with European style dry walling would be fun to watch too. We use the following wall set ups: 1) OSB plus drywall 2) fermacell plus drywall 3) drywall plus drywall. My house uses the second variant with fermacell as backing layer. Depending on what load I want to hang, I just can screw in anywhere without an anchor and it holds. Consider a screw which has a threading that can grab in fermacell though.
Very nicely done. I had to hang a railing on a steel studded wall for my elder father to use for balance next to his bed. I used toggle bolts, despite hoe much I hate the things, because the internets implied that was the best choice. They're working well, thankfully!! But, the wall itself wouldn't have held up if he was pulling himself up from seated (i.e. pulling the drywall off the steel studs) because the studs themselves would have pulled off the rest of the wall!! Key point: you can have the best attachment method, but if your wall structure isn't up to it, nothing will help!
Handrails and grab bars MUST be anchored into structure (brick walls, steel studs, wood studs, backer boards running across studs to take the load); somebody grabbing a handrail or grab bar in drywall or plaster/lathe during a stumble/fall can rip the anchors right out right out, and down they go to an injury. Building codes prohibit such installations, and with good reason...they aren't safe.
@@markh.6687 Understood and agreed. This was not ideal: mounting to steel studs was not something I was happy about, but more about temporary stop-gap. This will be removed soon when he's back up to more normal activity. No, I don't like it either.
The toggle bolts are good but require a fairly large hole to install which, I feel, actually takes some of the holding strength away. The easiest one is the corkscrew, but I definitely don't like the plastic ones. I would highly recommend metal. In my experience, the plastic are prone to shattering and often I can't get them even go through the drywall without a starter hole because the tips melt. The zip toggles are nice. Slightly smaller initial hole and work better with a restriction inside the wall cavity because there aren't any spring loaded wings.
Like many have mentioned, the metal expander needs a tool to set them properly. One upside is that you can set them in walls that have foam isolation and similar, no need for an empty space behind the drywall like a lot of the other anchors in this video.
Man, I've learned a lot from you. I feel like I owe you some money, haha. I'm located in Calgary, and one thing I didn't stumble upon in your videos is what mud ( brand ) do you use and prefer for taping and finishing ? Thanks again
the Cobra ones that you had to hammer in are to be used with a gun that pulls the screw and thereby opens up the wings of the screw in the back. you do have to choose the correct length with them so they don't open up in the drywall and not the back. That's what most people use in France for drywalls... but they are a pain to remove when not needed anymore but they are very strong not sure if this one was to be used with a gun but it sure looked like it by the way it was not working on your wall
Been in the trades for decades and it’s hard to beat the old Molly bolts, the expanding metal anchors, though they do need a bigger hole in the front which contributed to their early failing; when installed properly under pressure they can hold massive amounts especially if used with glue on the item being attached. I do carry the big screw style as well as their smaller version as frankly they’re just the easiest to use and far surpass the old drill, hammer, expand type as they always grab and hold; they also leave a easy to fill hole.
And they are easier to reuse. If you have to temporarily remove the item, the anchor will still be there, and just as functional. What will happen if you remove the screw from any of the others, especially the toggles? I've had the plastic anchors try to come out with the screw, leaving a much bigger, messier hole, and if they had stayed, they weren't so reusable.
I noticed that different manufacturers advertise different ratings. For example, the 3/16" FlipToggles are rated for 106lbs shear with a "2:1 safe working load," while the 3/16" SnapToggles advertise an "ultimate shear" load rating of 238lbs. At a glance, you would assume that the SnapToggles were somehow stronger, but your test seems to confirm the ultimate loads are similar.
I think for completeness you should show what a screw into the 2x4 would hold. If you're going to hang something heavy then it's worth trying to do that. Sure it's not always possible but it often is, and often people don't even try.
So much cheaper, stronger and easier too. You do need a place with wooden studs though, lots of apartments have metal studs which are a pain to work with
I have a motorhome with a metal floor I have to hang a generator from. In combination with welds, toggle bolts are the best I can do as the existing screws are loose and turning with the nuts, i.e., practically worthless. Toggle bolts are limited in hang strength mainly by the material they are used on.
Although for most it’s a good test. There’s a difference on holding power pending how close you are to a 2/4 stud. Mid 16 OC is weaker due to drywall having more give. Closer to 2/4 drywall is more stiff. Anything that has real weight should always be as close to a stud or in a stud
How much weight can you put on if a screw is into a stud? :) Serious question btw I know it will be a big amount, I just wonder if it's been tested before.
Well the problem I see here that aside from a picture or something flat that will pull straight down on the anchor they benefit from the bottom of the drywall for support. However things the protrude from the wall like a shelf with create a greater outward and down force and pull them out much sooner. The toggle bolts reflected that force because the weights stuck out from the wall. Thank you for a great test.
I picked up some of those zip toggles after my 5 year old tried to use my towel bar like a monkey bar. Of course had to watch some drywall patching videos first and fix the damage. So far so good! I should have just thrown the plastic wall anchors in the junk bucket right away.
So you would be testing the max load for these anchors at the point of failure. That is why they have factor of safety and I would like to know how the weight holds up with time at F.S. load.
Though I agree anchor bolts are pain to install, you need a puller tool to install them and you need to get the correct length shank aswell as correct sized bolts (sometimes the head is too big for application, sometimes not long enough). The shank is supposed to be the same thickness as your plaster wall. Ie they range from 8mm, 10mm, 20mm and 25mm. I've never had one failed yet, when installed correctly. I've had ones fail when I didn't install correctly :)
THe metal expanding ones, you cannot use them on the drywall surface, they will fail because they tear the paper appart. I had someone use them when installing shelving where you have a metal rail, place the rail, drill them into the rail and drywall, then they work.
Failure should simply be the first sign of product or drywall distortion. Observe backside penetration of toggle metal channel edges into gypsum. Edges are very high points of stress concentration..
This is the best drywall heavy object hanging video ive seen. Thanks
This video is why I still use UA-cam despite all the ads they slap us with. Thank you for putting in the work. I know what I'm buying from now on.
The zip toggles are definitely my favorite. The issue I have with the metal wing style is that you can’t take the screw out and re-use the anchor - it will just fall into the wall. The zip toggles are nice in that you can remove the screw and the plastic supports keep everything in place.
The metal zip ones are fundamentally weaker design too as relying on a joint in the center where there would be most leverage. The zip toggles are so clever as they push through one solid piece of metal.
The zip ones are waaaaayyyy cheaper though so losing a few in the wall doesn't add up to much 😂
Nothing works like a stud or blocking. By the way, the floor performed impressively.
Rogue bumper plates are awesome
There's times when u wanna place something on the wall without a stud being there
This is obviously meant for when there is no stud where you need it hello
@@JohnSmithh644 Correct. What I was thinking about was the two instances where I used a hollow wall hanger - only to have it blow out in use (accidental pressure). Should have cut the sheetrock and added a block.
So here's a little bit of engineering involved in these tests. I'm not discrediting the test but there's a tricky part of wall friction that's playing a big role in the way this test was done.
Since those weights look like rubber or plastic and drywall they actually have a pretty high coefficient of friction. I'm not exactly sure what but we can guess maybe 0.5 to be conservative. As weight gets added on and the total weight is displaced outward, an equal and opposite force is applied by the wall normal to its surface equal to sine of the angle of the center of mass, or about half the angle of the weight furthest out. I'd estimate on the 200lbs scenario that angle is about 75 degrees so the center of mass is around the 30 degree mark just to be conservative.
The equation for friction is pretty simple, the normal force times the coefficient of friction.
Friction = sin(30)*weight * uf
So 0.5*200*0.5 = 50 lbs of friction is reducing the downward weight on that scenario
There's obviously a lot of weight pulling outward on these tests, equal to about the center of mass times the weight or about 100lbs actually, and these drywall anchors typically fail that way instead of down by design.
And also obviously these tests are comparisons anyway so I don't know why you took the time to read my long winded comment. Cheers!
I read your entire comment, knowing I had no clue what you were saying. I read till the last word. You’re really smart! Too late for my brain to function like that ever, but I hope my 6yr old son is into engineering one day! Ciao!
Ben, your child like excitement in making these videos keeps me coming back for more.... I've learned so much from you technically, and you sure make it fun to watch with you.... I can picture a bunch of 10-year-olds trying this in their garage and it just makes me smile! For the record I go with the cork screws and toggle bolts most of the time and I'll give the zip toggles a try too! I hate the metal ones as well!
Honestly, the screw in anchors are my go to. If I'm gonna put anything on the wall or ceiling that needs to hold more than 65lbs I'm aiming for studs. Those zip tie anchors are pretty neat though!
pretty much my take as well. I can reliably get them to work to that standard as well. I think that's something he showed pretty well in this video as well, especially with the metal pound in ones. Why use them?
Agreed but annoyingly if the building has metal studs you need the toggle bolts even if you aim for the studs
Fun video!
Best way to set a moly is with the proper moly setting tool. (Pistol style grip tool)
Drill the hole, insert the moly, back out the screw a little, use the tool to expand the metal tabs and compress to the Sheetrock.
Then back out the screw completely to attach what your mounting with the same screw.
When done properly they hold really well.
When trying to use the screw to do this it spins and destroys the front of the Sheetrock and weakens the whole assembly as seen.
I prefer Snap Toggles which are similar to the Zip ones you used.
I love how we get so much joy out of breaking and smashing things! 🤣 I loved this video.
Great video. That was fun to watch. I've used the screw-type anchors mostly and found them to be adequate for most jobs.
VC!!!! Hi! I'm back to watching your videos. Been in school for the last year. I'm back to renovating, and yes, drywallering around my walls again. Missed visiting the channel and missed ya. I'm back to VC with coffee in the am. It's good to be back. This video is a must share. Learned so much! As always thanking you for everything you do for your viewers. Can't wait to see what's next. Hope you and the family are doing wonderful!
That was fun to watch and informative. I really like the zip toggle bolts and their toggler anchors. A while back I used several zip toggles when installing a closet shelf and hanger bar. I ended up slightly bending the bar when hanging from it to test the zip toggle strength. 😅
GeeFix rep is all, "my name is Samsonite, you are way off!" Awesome video - you are answering the questions I have always had when browsing this section at HD - "will it really hold that much?" "how does that thing even work?" and so on. My brain can rest easy the next time I encounter that section. Thank you!
I can vouch for GeeFix. I had a towel rack that was hanging to the wall by "a thread" due to the previous owner having put a bunch of holes in the drywall with different anchors but then I guess they pulled on the towel rack or something and ripped them out. I had tried a couple of the other ones you tried with no success as there wasn't enough drywall left for them to bite. I saw another UA-camr (Charlie DIY) do a drywall anchor test and he rated the GeeFix the best of the ones he tried so I bought them (back in 2019). That towel rack is very solidly attached to the wall and I've never had a problem with it since.
3:09 glad to see a professional also struggle trying to mount anchors xD i can be less harsh on my own manhood from now on😌
The reason the third ones were so difficult to install and failed early is because you didn't use the correct tool to install them. You need a special tool to pull the screw out to widen the anchor. When done correctly it should hold just about as much as a toggle bolt.
I’ve never seen that tool around here but all the UK and Australian viewers have been quick to tell me about it.
Correct. Nothing but respect for @vancouvercarpenter otherwise, thus is it made me slightly sad to see it just being hammered into a wall and expected to hold anything without the wings being engaged properly. An M6 of these molly plugs (dry wall expanders) for single layer dry wall are specified for around 88 pounds.
You have not installed that anchor correctly, they are made to be put in with an expanding tool so they expand in a star shape and grip the back of the blasterboard, please get an expanding tool and do the test again, but awesome to see that it holds so much weight even not fully installed @@vancouvercarpenter
FYI the molly bolts you tried using @ 3:23, You use a tool to set them in the wall.. you don't try to screw them in as they just spin. honestly a property set molly bolt is extremely strong. They are my go to when anchoring anything in drywall where there is no stud to hit.
edit: I cant post a link in the comments, just search molly bolt tool. They are really cheap and work like how a caulk gun works
^ This. There are molly plugs in plastic which you are suppose to screw for them to expand, but they are kinda trash.
That special tool is neat, but if he had just put his Molly bolt screw through the hanging hook first, then attach to the wall, he would have had better results. Not saying it would be better than the zip toggles, cuz those are way better, but if Molly bolts is all a guy has then you had better learn this little trick.
It’s true. With the expanding tool they are solid as rock
Looks like good modern fixings are well above the limits of the drywall itself. Fine for most items that need to be hung up.
Good info. Thanks.
Good job being very detailed. You are one I have been watching your videos for a good while now. Great presentation
I've used some plastic toggle-style ones all over the house and they have been great. We have some helping to hold up shelving when I couldn't get all the screws into studs and a few to help with towel bars and the like. Very easy to install and work very well, they are just a bit of a pain to take back out.
Been warching your skate channel, but found this other channel accidentally.
I have to hang a TV at my church and typed in "TV drywall mounts." Your video helped the most. Cool to find you here, and thank you for the help.
Thanks for the share. I’m pretty sure the look of hanging free weights off your wall will eventually catch on.😉😁
Ok, I rarely comment but damn it, was just fun to watch. Thank you for the giggle. Ima very beginner drywaller, putting up a 137 sheets of drywall. I very much am not enjoying life right now. So this video came perfectly timed. I needed to laugh. So bad😂
Great demonstration, Ben. I agree with all your recommendations and the various anchors you used. I am proud to say that nothing I ever hung on a wall fell down and that's after 60 years since I was born. If you want to add to this demonstration, test all these anchors during a live earthquake. 😅
One intesting thing I do use for hanging pictures are these wires that push through the wall. They do hold way more than expected and putting two one inch apart is no big deal
I used to work for a guy back in the 80s. We did almost exclusively residential work and hung a lot of things on the walls. The only anchors he would buy with those stupid metal ones I hate them.
Brilliant demonstration! Always enjoy your videos! 👍👍👍
I've used the larger zip toggles (1/2" I think) in attaching to a concrete panel subfloor and the problem I ran into was that insulation behind the panel made it difficult for the 'nut' part to rotate into the correct position. I found a creative way to push the insulation away from the backside a bit to make some space, but it was a real pain.
Professional TV installer here, been using zip toggles since they came out. Never had a single one fail, in 23 years. For the price and ease of installation, they are a fantastic product.
I just installed a 75 inch weighing at 49lbs and the mount around 30lbs with 4 toggles on drywall only.
Do you think it will withstand?
I use the zip tie style when I'm hanging a heavy. Good for TV mounts if a stud doesn't line up.
Currently vexed by a can crusher that has blown out twice now and expecting the corkscrews to do same soon.
Molly bolts tough when using multiple behind and backing board.
I use the screw anchors for most jobs up to 50lb, and the Cobra zip anchors for heavier mounting jobs, much quicker and easier than the old style toggle. Thanks for the video!
I put some zip toggles into 3 layers of drywall recently. They were crazy strong. I was hanging off the bracket lol.
We have similar to No.3 here in Finland in two different sizes.
One with 5mm bolt works kinda like yours, damages the front side of the drywall, etc.
Another one with 4mm bolt works just fine.
I used the screw type anchors rated at 100lbs to attach my network cabinet on the wall and so far it's been holding up 3 years. They are by far the best anchors I've used.
My takeaway from this: don't exceed the rated load of the anchor.
First of all, you were having waaaaaaaay too much fun in this video! 😂😂😂
Seriously though, I loved this. It was fun to watch and really great, factual info that I can use. As always, great jog and thanks. 😃👍🏼
Thank you!
The distribution of weight onto the drywall by the anchor determined it's fail. You could tell which held the best by the amount of drywall ripped out of the wall. Love the test. Sleeping in bed under a failing anchor is like having a sword of Damocles hanging over your head.
Super fun! Thank you and knowing is half the battle.
can't believe a video like this hasn't been done yet that I know of.. views are gonna skyrocket!
Sure hope so
There is literally 1000s of drywall anchors test videos online 😂
For whatever its worth - there are setting tools for that metal expander (in Sweden we would call them molly plugs) which really helps to get that full petal expansion (like in the drawing). Its another ~8 USD rougly but if you’ve got loads of drywalls it starts to make sense. Also we dont have the hammer in kinds but rather predrill types…
I think things like this are highly regional. Maybe some areas use them cause everyone does. But in usa and canada we use different ones and why use one with a special required tool if you can get others that don’t require it.
@@conradcoolerfiend you are most definitively correct - although I truly enjoy our Canadian dry wallers videos, it’s often tricky to “translate” - even the spackling tools are different. And even though most of the fasterners showcased in the vid would be available in Sweden as well, I’d say the molly is still one of the most common ones when needing to secure something quite heavy. Guess it comes down to cost and ready availability - from a pure use case perspective I see a few I would rather use… Cost would obviously depend on volumes sold which kinda brings market share and traditions into the mix.
@@conradcoolerfiend Why use a fastener that requires a specific tool. Because they are very easy, very fast and very reliable IF you use the tool.
When ya buy these by the box of 100, ya buy the tool, if ya did not get one free.
I ran into the same problem that Vancouver Carpenter did installing those expanding metal anchors, I.e., the stupid ones. found that when expanding the anchor, it works better to place something between the screw head and drywall so that the torque from the screw head is not transferred to the anchor. In this video, the hook could have been used and held in place while driving the screw for the first time in order to expand it. Kind of like how it is done with toggle bolts.
@@dh-jx5yn but there is no way you will set them properly without the tool.
with the tool and a tight drilled hole, they bite very well.
properly set, for them to pull out you have to pull about 20mm 3/4 inch of plaster out.
.
They are incredibly strong if you druill thru and set them in a metal stud.
You had way too much fun making this 😂 Thanks for the info!
This video is relevant to my interests... seriously I just finished the downstairs and have been starting to hang stuff. Agree The Toggler is the way to go for hanging TV mounts. I have a 26 lb mirror I just hung using the basic plastic ones but they were rated for 40 lbs and seem fine. Those corkscrew ones though, every time I use them they just blow out a hole through the drywall instead of screwing in.
Dude, you are so awesome!! You just seem to have the coolest , most easy going, most wonderful energy about you man. I've watched you now as a carpenter, and a skater, being a skater myself and seriously man, I wish we were friends. Lol you seem like the greatest guy!! Thanks for being you bro!! 👌💪❤️
Thank you 😊!
Excellent demonstration. Good to know.👍
I keep the spiral screw-in ones stocked in my bag. Ill have to add the zip toggles now too, very impressive!
I carry 4 different anchors, both 40 and 50 lb screw-in (metal, not plastic) and both 3/16" and 1/4" zip toggles. I like the "Toggler" brand from the blue box store, not the ones you get from the orange box store. No, I don't rep the blue store or Toggler brand.
When you say metal not plastic, are you referring to the plastic part on the zip anchors? I have used the zip anchors(Orange Box Store)and the plastic part that you break off once fully press against the wall is way too brittle. Sometimes they break before you get it fully pressed against the wall. They are not cheap either. I stopped using them due to this.
I find the spiral ones sometimes spin in the wall when you try and tighten a screw into them.
Any tips to avoid that?
I use the zip fix ones for small shelving and brackets and the plastic screw for things like picture frames and mirrors.
Hey Ben I'm glad you put those steal toes on. Good job on this testing...
A lot is also dependent on the wallboard. Lightweight board will hold less than regular board. 5/8" rock will hold more than 1/2". I used zip toggles in a wall with doubled-up 5/8" wallboard for a floating shelf. It'll hold a lot of weight. Did the same toggles in a wall with one layer of board, the wall definitely flexes and obviously will not hold the weight that the double layer will. I also turn my toggles so the metal is horizontal, not vertical. If vertical, I feel most of the weight is on the top of the toggle but horizontal, it spreads the load more evenly. I'm not an engineer, but that's my thoughts on it. Anybody else with their ideas on this?
As always - an entertaining video. I can't think of anything heavy that I would hang from drywall. Just go a couple inches over and use a stud. Any of these anchors would easily hold up a picture. I'd consider ease of use, degree of drywall damage, maybe cost.
That was interesting to watch. Dunno about the cork screw ones. I used those before, like three per side for a shelf system in a single layer drywall, and all six ripped out with a load around 9kg.. Was quite disappointed... 😢
Though, a test with European style dry walling would be fun to watch too.
We use the following wall set ups:
1) OSB plus drywall
2) fermacell plus drywall
3) drywall plus drywall.
My house uses the second variant with fermacell as backing layer. Depending on what load I want to hang, I just can screw in anywhere without an anchor and it holds. Consider a screw which has a threading that can grab in fermacell though.
Excellent demo thanks!
Awesome video! Thanks buddy 👍
Very nicely done. I had to hang a railing on a steel studded wall for my elder father to use for balance next to his bed. I used toggle bolts, despite hoe much I hate the things, because the internets implied that was the best choice.
They're working well, thankfully!! But, the wall itself wouldn't have held up if he was pulling himself up from seated (i.e. pulling the drywall off the steel studs) because the studs themselves would have pulled off the rest of the wall!!
Key point: you can have the best attachment method, but if your wall structure isn't up to it, nothing will help!
Handrails and grab bars MUST be anchored into structure (brick walls, steel studs, wood studs, backer boards running across studs to take the load); somebody grabbing a handrail or grab bar in drywall or plaster/lathe during a stumble/fall can rip the anchors right out right out, and down they go to an injury.
Building codes prohibit such installations, and with good reason...they aren't safe.
@@markh.6687 Understood and agreed. This was not ideal: mounting to steel studs was not something I was happy about, but more about temporary stop-gap. This will be removed soon when he's back up to more normal activity.
No, I don't like it either.
This was way more interesting than expected
The toggle bolts are good but require a fairly large hole to install which, I feel, actually takes some of the holding strength away. The easiest one is the corkscrew, but I definitely don't like the plastic ones. I would highly recommend metal. In my experience, the plastic are prone to shattering and often I can't get them even go through the drywall without a starter hole because the tips melt. The zip toggles are nice. Slightly smaller initial hole and work better with a restriction inside the wall cavity because there aren't any spring loaded wings.
Like many have mentioned, the metal expander needs a tool to set them properly. One upside is that you can set them in walls that have foam isolation and similar, no need for an empty space behind the drywall like a lot of the other anchors in this video.
Man, I've learned a lot from you. I feel like I owe you some money, haha. I'm located in Calgary, and one thing I didn't stumble upon in your videos is what mud ( brand ) do you use and prefer for taping and finishing ? Thanks again
Came across this channel trying to repair some drywall holes. Knew your face was familiar! Enjoying the skate videos too
Great video, and very informative too, thank you 😁👍
Loving the brave "danger screams" in this video 😂
Good to know...thanks for the video!
"... Use those dumb metal ones."
Perfect commentary man.
the Cobra ones that you had to hammer in are to be used with a gun that pulls the screw and thereby opens up the wings of the screw in the back.
you do have to choose the correct length with them so they don't open up in the drywall and not the back.
That's what most people use in France for drywalls... but they are a pain to remove when not needed anymore but they are very strong
not sure if this one was to be used with a gun but it sure looked like it by the way it was not working on your wall
Been in the trades for decades and it’s hard to beat the old Molly bolts, the expanding metal anchors, though they do need a bigger hole in the front which contributed to their early failing; when installed properly under pressure they can hold massive amounts especially if used with glue on the item being attached. I do carry the big screw style as well as their smaller version as frankly they’re just the easiest to use and far surpass the old drill, hammer, expand type as they always grab and hold; they also leave a easy to fill hole.
And they are easier to reuse. If you have to temporarily remove the item, the anchor will still be there, and just as functional. What will happen if you remove the screw from any of the others, especially the toggles? I've had the plastic anchors try to come out with the screw, leaving a much bigger, messier hole, and if they had stayed, they weren't so reusable.
I noticed that different manufacturers advertise different ratings. For example, the 3/16" FlipToggles are rated for 106lbs shear with a "2:1 safe working load," while the 3/16" SnapToggles advertise an "ultimate shear" load rating of 238lbs. At a glance, you would assume that the SnapToggles were somehow stronger, but your test seems to confirm the ultimate loads are similar.
Now for some cali style patch lessons on those holes!
I think for completeness you should show what a screw into the 2x4 would hold. If you're going to hang something heavy then it's worth trying to do that. Sure it's not always possible but it often is, and often people don't even try.
So much cheaper, stronger and easier too. You do need a place with wooden studs though, lots of apartments have metal studs which are a pain to work with
That was so much fun to watch :)
I have a motorhome with a metal floor I have to hang a generator from. In combination with welds, toggle bolts are the best I can do as the existing screws are loose and turning with the nuts, i.e., practically worthless. Toggle bolts are limited in hang strength mainly by the material they are used on.
Although for most it’s a good test.
There’s a difference on holding power pending how close you are to a 2/4 stud.
Mid 16 OC is weaker due to drywall having more give.
Closer to 2/4 drywall is more stiff.
Anything that has real weight should always be as close to a stud or in a stud
Dude my toes were cringing!! LOL Fun test
How much weight can you put on if a screw is into a stud? :) Serious question btw I know it will be a big amount, I just wonder if it's been tested before.
Well the problem I see here that aside from a picture or something flat that will pull straight down on the anchor they benefit from the bottom of the drywall for support. However things the protrude from the wall like a shelf with create a greater outward and down force and pull them out much sooner. The toggle bolts reflected that force because the weights stuck out from the wall. Thank you for a great test.
Straight to the point
Thanks for the video. Now you can show all of us how to patch the holes. In the next video. 🛎🛠🇨🇦
I talked to a handyman who said he hangs tvs with drywall anchors no studs lol
This was so weirdly fun to watch.
Thanks for the test!
Great video!
that was fun!
I'm glad :)
I wish you could find an old piece of Sheetrock and see if new Sheetrock or old Sheetrock makes a difference in carrying capacity.
The old stuff would be better for sure!
Snap-Toggles and the metal corkscrew type are the best.
I picked up some of those zip toggles after my 5 year old tried to use my towel bar like a monkey bar. Of course had to watch some drywall patching videos first and fix the damage. So far so good! I should have just thrown the plastic wall anchors in the junk bucket right away.
Out of curiosity, couldn't you screw into studs?
"I should really be in steel toes today" 😆 🤣 that was awesome
Dang, Ben that’s a cool lookin’ home gym!
Didn't think i would find a video about anchors so interesting haha
What a great idea for a video
Point of failure always good for a laugh! .... interesting video - cheers.
Thank you I learned allot.
So you would be testing the max load for these anchors at the point of failure. That is why they have factor of safety and I would like to know how the weight holds up with time at F.S. load.
Great video
these types of videos give me so much more entertainment then anything else.. I want to see it fully in acton.
how much weight can drywall actually hold? does the toggle even matter if the drywall itself won't hold?
Though I agree anchor bolts are pain to install, you need a puller tool to install them and you need to get the correct length shank aswell as correct sized bolts (sometimes the head is too big for application, sometimes not long enough).
The shank is supposed to be the same thickness as your plaster wall. Ie they range from 8mm, 10mm, 20mm and 25mm. I've never had one failed yet, when installed correctly. I've had ones fail when I didn't install correctly :)
The toggle bolt didn't fail, the drywall did 🤣🤣
THe metal expanding ones, you cannot use them on the drywall surface, they will fail because they tear the paper appart. I had someone use them when installing shelving where you have a metal rail, place the rail, drill them into the rail and drywall, then they work.
lol.. i kept moving my feet out of reflex when those weights started dropping..
I'm glad you put on your steel toes 🤣 i started worrying 🤣
Yup. It was feeling pretty sketchy.
Forget the fasteners, lets hear it for the HOOK you were using to hold the weights. YAY!!!
Failure should simply be the first sign of product or drywall distortion. Observe backside penetration of toggle metal channel edges into gypsum. Edges are very high points of stress concentration..
Id love to see the same anchors used with different drywall thicknesses. Wonder if they would hold a lot more or less using 5/8s, 1/2 or 1/4