Thanks for your time and effort making this. I have struggled with most of these fixings putting up cupboards, towel rails and curtain track as they have more horizontal force than your vertical bucket test and just ripped out after a while. Ironically, I found the Grip It ones worked well and now have a big pack of them. They adjust to different thickness of plasterboard provided they are done up tight. For a TV on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall I found special long engineered metal fixings that are held in the brick/block wall and have a threaded front section for a bolt to hold the tv bracket.
I moved into a 'modern' house with plasterboard stud walls a couple of years ago and found the 'tap in' spade fixings ideal for fixing shelves, mirrors etc. I've been impressed by their strength and that they are quick and easy to use. The reason I watched your video is that now I have to fit a vertical radiator (about 15kg dry) which has four small angled u shaped brackets and no floor support. I think I'll be using traditional spring clip anchors after watching your 'test' video.
I fitted a triple thick bar vertical radiator, could just about lift it dry, very heavy.. you'll find thanks to the design of the small brackets that even if the fixings hold the brackets will cut through the plasterboard like a knife. Only safe method I found was cutting holes for the brackets in the plasterboard, mounting the brackets on wood then fitting the brackets to the brickwork with very strong masonry bolts. Not a fun job.
Yanno when you just have a dad question but you live far away and then you find an expert builder man on youtube to fill the gaps? You're the guy. Thanks a lot mate.
Brilliant video. Just buying my first house with dry walls, and this has given me loads of confidence re fixings and weights. Thanks for another stonking video.
No really, a lot of help. Previous houses have all been Victorian or '30s houses. Just bought a brand new house, so really pleased to have this info. Great channel, thanks. @@TheDIYGuy1
Really useful test. Well done. I think to be proper science with repeatable results you'd need to do at least 3 samples of each fixing. Knowing how much variation there is as well as the average failure value would be very useful. And now we need this experiment for insulated plasterboard (where the toggle fixings for example won't work due to no space to expand into). I presume some of the other clamping types will still work but they may not all expand properly to get a good grip, depending on how they work.
That was very interesting... I've been using those universal plugs for a couple of years on lots of different jobs and haven't had a failure yet. True I've never hung a bucket of water off them but bloody big pictures no problems!
Great practical test using two to mount a hook and load it as you would in real application. Compare to a lot of other you tube tests that only test one by itself.
Can't say I have ever worried much about fixing into plasterboard, or in my case, 150 year old lath and plaster, but due to fixing a cookerhood fan tomorrow, your excellent detailed video has been invaluable. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I will be using the the spring-type that will more than support the 10 or 15 KG I need it to. Thanks again for the video.
I am a girlie of 72, new to DIY, but needs must. This video kept me rivetted as well as informed. Now to go and buy the correct anchor for my plaster board wall. What I will need to know soon, is how to hang 2 pictures (i am an artist and work in concrete and ceramic tiles) weighing 30 kg a piece onto solid walls.
Ive got a TV bracket to put up. Its a fixed , flush bracket but the holes are only 200mm apart. I think the best compromise i can do is one side goes into a stud and the other 2 i use gripit blue.
Hej, great video! Having a bit of a specific question here: how long were the screws you used for the fischer duo power plug and what dimension was the plug? It looks like the mechanism didn't function properly so I'm wondering if the screws were too short.
Good video but I would have liked to see you using the setting tool to compress the first wall anchors and showing us what they looked like from the back like you did the second one
really great video thanks. One thing I would like to add (apologies if already commented on) is that it doesn't take into account the leverage / cantilever effect. So for example if you mount a wide shelf the force applied because of the cantilever is much greater. I wonder what the figures would be if you mounted a shelf bracket of 30 cm from the wall, and then hung the bucket from the end of the bracket. I'm guessing much lower. Obviously a fixing of this type would normally have 2 or more fixings also. These fixings are great for something heavy that is flush to the wall, I recently hung a heavy electric radiator to my garden room stud wall with hollow wall anchors no problem, and the same principle applies for heavy TV's for example, but for shelves that come out from the wall a long way the forces would be completely different. Anyway top man! Paul
Great idea and I known it sounds laborious but you should change the sheet each time. Some of the tears that you did are close to the wood holders whilst others are in the middle and not to mention all the holes now in the board have compromised the test. But still found very useful thanks
The two wings fold along the length of the screw. The hole needs to be large enough to fit this folded assembly into the cavity (about 14mm diameter). As the assembly passes through the hole, the wings spring out sideways. Then you tighten the screw to pull the wings against the back of the plaster. The main problem with these ones is the item to be hanged usually has to be fitted between the screw and the anchor assembly prior to pushing it through the wall.
First off great 👍 video ...I find those grip it fixings are really good but are let down by the plastic pivot you turn to deploy the wings behind the board as they break and snap making removal difficult
Am I incorrect here, but the loading measured surely is only half the recorded weight per fixing as there were two fixings each time, taking half the combined load....? So in actual fact, each fixing only performed to approximately half the test recorded value.....?🤔
I recently came across new ( new to me anyway) plasterboard fixings called GeeFix, they are fairly expensive but very very good. I used them to hang a large mirror and they worked a treat. Not something a kitchen fitter would use everyday due to the cost, but for the odd heavy item much better than fixing a damaged plasterboard.
TLDR: use snap toggles (the kinds that looks like a metal bar with a zip tie attached to it) for heavy stuff like a television, use stab-in/tap-in for light loads such as picture frames. With any toggle style anchor/fixing, it's less a question of how much the anchor can hold, but more a question of how much your wall can hold. They are stronger than your drywall/plasterboard/sheetrock. With other anchors, the questions is about how well they can hold onto the material. That's true for just about any of the true toggle style anchors such as the old school toggle bolt you used before the tap in one, the more modern snap toggles, or self drilling toggles (I don't like the self drilling toggles, but not because of a lack of holding power. I find the mechanism doesn't always engage and the threads that the screw drive into sometimes strip). snap toggles are my favorite of the bunch because they are mechanically very simple unlike the self drilling toggles, but they don't fall into the wall cavity when removed, like old school toggle bolts tend to. The Grip-it anchors aren't worth it at all imo, they're complex, require a giant hole to be drilled, and just like toggles it's dependent on your wall strength. Just use toggles and don't bother with them. As for the smaller anchors, stab in anchors leave very little damage if you need to remove them, and they hold a lot of weight for such an easy to use and non-damaging anchor, those are my preferred type of anchors for lighter loads like photos or brackets for small shelves with multiple screws
You figure you would use multiple tap in anchors for a small children’s book shelf? Or better to stick to the snap or regular toggle? Thanks for the advice!
Great video and has really helped me in the decision making of what to use to mount my TV on the wall. 4 toggles should hold a 8.1kg tv on the wall with no problem 👍🏼
As I expected, the metal spring toggle performed the best, holding 49 kg. I've used these a lot in my house, and friends houses, for fixing heavy curtain rails. Some say the metal wall anchor, sometimes called a molly bolt, is the best, but in your test it did well (holding 36 kg) but not as well as the spring toggle (which held 49 kg). I guess this stands to reason as with the spring toggle you have the load spread out over a larger surface area, the longer the toggle giving greater surface area
Any suggestions about what to use to anchor something onto a Kingspan surface? Our old farmhouse has had kingspan applied on the stone walls to provide some insulation, but is a problem as I need to wall mount a TV
Love the video, i am just about to fix a slightly heavybathroom cabinet to a plasterboard stud walls, the stud is not positioned to help, so i 'm edging towards the toggle clips
Really interesting video open my eyes 👀 as I always used the Metal screw type for as long as I can remember used them for my clients no issues over the years I was going to try the Gripit fixings but now I’m not sure 🤔 what to do as I’ve saw a Screwfix video and the plumber used the brown Gripit fixings it was 2 x Brown Gripit on the radiators and then stood on top of the radiator so your video showed the Gripit Brown fixing didn’t hold the weight as it stated on the packet Hmmm 🤔 what to do do I stay with the Metal self drilling into the plaster board !! Great video by the way thank you for honest display of various fixings
What’s best to use to hang a 5kg mirror on a very thick plasterboard wall? The problem I have is the small diameter of the screw needed but the length not being enough to pass through into the hollow cavity behind the plasterboard.
For cabinets full of heavy items you will want to attach to something solid behind the plasterboard. So wood screws if you are hitting joists or masonry screws and plugs if you are hitting bricks.
Absolutely superb test mate🤘 my only criticism is that those 4th Fischer universal plugs were not tightened properly. Possibly could hold even heavier weight that all ✌️
Going to put a TV up in a day or so about 15kg and was going to go for the screw in type but will be going for the hollow ones you used at the start of the video now. 31kg from only 2 so I will be using at least 4 or 6 and hopefully get a stud in the middle.
Great video and very useful test. In my experience the Grip it’s are a poor fixing. Not only do other cheaper fixings hold better but the initial hole required is far too big especially if you with to move things afterwards.
Still prefer butterfly bolts as the load is spread over wider area. When hanging a radiator on plasterboard also use adhesive on the rear of the brackets to further spread the load and risk of slippage when little Johnnie decides to sit or jump on the radiator!!
@@paulboro6036 Also u could use high density sound or fire rated plaster board at 30kg for 2.4m x 1.2m. Difficult for daddy to punch a hole in it when he's drunk or throws a chair at it, never mind little Johnnie!!
Surely you forgot to add the 20kg weight back in for the Gripit Blue? Be interesting to see how these fare when used vertically, as for a ceiling mount of something like a heavy light fixture.
really insightful! love the scientific method being employed! QQ -> I was told that say i need to hang a mirror on the wall (50KG). if i use 3x rule plugs they should hold it as its 20KG X 3 = 60KG. does that maths stand up ? I am skeptical but would love to know what people think?
Great video but I wonder about the placement of the fixings. When placing the 2nd, 3rd, 4th experiment next to the holes where the previous fixing have been ripped out surely the structural integrity of the plasterboard is not as strong.
I've got a triple layered plasterboard wall in my understairs cupboard, only realised when I drilled for a Bullfix. I think I'm limited to a metal self tapper unless anyone has a better idea?
This is a great video. Always love plasterboard fixings comparisons. Just to add to your list, snaptoggle is a great choice of fixing, I use a lot to fit heavy tvs, about £1 each. The only draw back, I guess with any toggle type fixings is it need 50mm cavity to work. Also I find that it don’t work with insulations. But they claim it holds over 100kg each. Which I am not a believer of. Duo power my second favourite Correct me if I am wrong - I think if you divided the results in half would be more fair as you did use 2 fixings for it. Theoretically, they should have held up whatever they claims x2
Hi, my tv weighs 9.9kg, I will attach it to wall mount and put as many screws as possible roughly 12 on each side(depending on which wall mount I purchase) I wont use a snap toggle it seems like I will have to make a really big hole, which other plug or self screw do you recommend please?
@@neoloanderson6676 9.9 kg, even 4x duo power will be more than enough (go with 8 to be on the safe side). I’d avoid full motion brackets on plasterboard walls, if you must, go with one with a big back plate.
As you can tell by this like fifth comment. i've been binge watching your videos all day lol. A general explainer on different types of wall plugs would be great.
The Gripit is a newly discovered anchor in my world. The last one you demonstrated failed essentially just as you began the test. The failure appeared immediately upon releasing the weight. As did the others in a way. Keeping adding weight after the bumping out was appearing was where they proved they were done. An interesting test, but still not a real world condition. But it did accurately give a good indication of how these products would work. Moral of the story is never come anywhere near the promised strength.
Currently looking for fixings for aquapanel cement board. Will be using adhesive also. Problem is my house built in 80s, builders were too lazy to put studwork in partition wall, it's three plasterboard stuck together, so no cavity either. Its 12.5mm one side, 19mm in the middle and 12.5mm the other side. Aquapanel manufacturer says it's not designed for fixing like that but I haven't got much choice. No way of taking it all down and rebuilding either. Any suggestions?
I have always used the tap-in expanding fixings so impressed with their performance 👍 Have also tried the metal screw in ones but won’t be buying them in future based on your tests. Have never used the beefier expanding metal toggle type cos never really been confident about attaching big loads to plasterboard but very impressed with them - you obviously need the space behind for the toggles to expand which could be an issue if you are fixing close to battens, etc. Great video 😊
Wish I’d watched this video earlier today. Only a few hours ago I used the metal self drilling fixings for a bathroom cabinet and now I’m having to refill the wall and start again
My dad always recommended the spring toggle fixings over 40yrs ago which says something about the design. Two points I would make is that the spring toggles were let down by the plasterboard wall rather than themselves plus the hook you used had 2x fixings and I would think that the manufactures ratings would refer to the load a single fixing could handle? I does make me wonder how they did their own testing? I suspect a pull rather than downward load was used? I have no real idea. 🤔😄
Try the Tap-In fixing but put it in horizontally, it might hold more weight. I've used them for ages and they're great. We can get them in a box of 200 for around €8.
A really helpful and well thought out video, reminds me of the Skill Builder channel which is another favourite. One suggestion if you ever replicate this test is to have each fixing type centred between two uprights to fairly compare as they’ll be under the same flex and board strength. But that’s a really picky one and the video was great, keep it up!!
I've got heavy duty metal shelving to fix to plasterboard walls. Not to hold weight up but just to keep properly upright, as if they slope too much to oneside there's a risk of collapse. What's the best option?
Geefix are decent but bullfix have been my go to lately. The smaller of the two available sizes requires a minimum cavity of just 7mm, and the larger requires 20mm. They are roughly half the price as well, for the starter kit anyway, and if you buy the box of 96 they're about 73p each.
I usually find at least one upright and if the item is heavy i often cut out the plasterboard and fit a 3 x 3 horizontal wooden batten between uprights anf screw diagonally Then i dont need plugs The plasterboard is always going to fail witht any weight
I think you forgot to add the 20kg weight in your total for the blue grip it. I discovered Grip it last year whilst installing a new radiator in my bathroom. One side of the wall was fine for my bracket but the other side was breaking with normal plasterboard plugs. I drilled the original radiator bracket to add 2 screws. 4 blue grip it in total on that side. That radiator would probably resist an earthquake! I think the test depends on how the weight of the object/piece of furniture spreads. In the example of a radiator the bracket will even out the weight rather well. Thanks for the comparison video.
On the last section you should have filmed the back of the wall to show if the grip it fixing "wings" actually spread out behind the plasterboard , to me they looked like they are not deep enough to go through and spread out . Interesting tests though .
Interesting that the spring toggle did not fail in and of itself, i.e. it didn't break, the screw didn't pull out of it, it did not pull out of the hole, it stayed working just fine until the plasterboard failed, and a large piece got ripped out. Essentially the spring toggle load capacity is determined by the strength of the board, not the fixing. It would be interesting to see how they performed in 15mm board. And with one above and one below a noggin. Plus a test of nylon toggles, e.g. Fischer DuoTec.
I have a picture hanging business in Australia and only use about 3 types of fixings. Anything over 20kg's I make my own brackets. Thanks for the video, it was interesting.
Take the weight with a pinch of salt , due to the length of the chain and bucket from the fixing point acting like levwrage , it probably shows less as what they can hold . If the weight was at the fixing point they would probably fair better . But great video 👍
The Grip Its are a bit overkill for what they're for. The brown one may be rated at 93KG, but unfortunately it's limited by the strength of the plasterboard. Also the self drilling ones, I wonder if they would have done better if you drilled a pilot hole first.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Based on your video I recently tried the Gripits and the spring toggles to hang up guitars and TV's. While the spring toggles are more secure, the problem was that there was only about 10-15mm of clearance between the plasterboard and a brick wall, which rendered the spring toggles useless, but the Gripits were the solution for it as they needed very little clearance. Sure, I could have drilled into the brick, but I would have needed a hammer action drill for it. So for anyone hanging a TV up, drill a small hole first to determine how deep you can drill, how thick the plasterboard is and how much clearance you've got underneath before spending any money on fixings or drilling bigger holes. Gripit sell a TV mounting kit with the blues and they have 20mm M8 bolts, which are shorter than the 30mm ones they sell with the standard blues, plus the 25mm drill bit as well.
I have ordered the grip it blue for my oled tv,, difference being is that I will be using 6 within the hanging frame and as it only needs to hold 22kilos should be fine, I think the guide weights they say it holds is misleading ,, perhaps with several being used over an area they could probably get close, but never to the 110kg's they advertise.
Interestingly on my wall in my games room, the plasterboard is 12.5mm, behind it looks like insolation foam, it was quite a job turning the screw to release those two wings attached to the grip screw. have you ever come across a wall like that before with no studs, just foam insolation and plasterboard stuck to it?@@TheDIYGuy1
As a boarder line numpty, this video has made me feel like a DIY professional, overflowing with wisdom and experience. Muchas gracias
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are an officer and a gentleman, Sir.
Borderline* Sorry to be that guy but better for you in the long run 🙂
I am personally grateful for a more real world application than all the other test to fail videos I’ve seen
👍
Thanks for your time and effort making this. I have struggled with most of these fixings putting up cupboards, towel rails and curtain track as they have more horizontal force than your vertical bucket test and just ripped out after a while. Ironically, I found the Grip It ones worked well and now have a big pack of them. They adjust to different thickness of plasterboard provided they are done up tight. For a TV on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall I found special long engineered metal fixings that are held in the brick/block wall and have a threaded front section for a bolt to hold the tv bracket.
Excellent demonstration. I've used spring toggles for 40 years, always the best.
I moved into a 'modern' house with plasterboard stud walls a couple of years ago and found the 'tap in' spade fixings ideal for fixing shelves, mirrors etc. I've been impressed by their strength and that they are quick and easy to use. The reason I watched your video is that now I have to fit a vertical radiator (about 15kg dry) which has four small angled u shaped brackets and no floor support. I think I'll be using traditional spring clip anchors after watching your 'test' video.
beware kids like to climb radiators.
Cut the board out between the studs and fix it proper
I fitted a triple thick bar vertical radiator, could just about lift it dry, very heavy.. you'll find thanks to the design of the small brackets that even if the fixings hold the brackets will cut through the plasterboard like a knife. Only safe method I found was cutting holes for the brackets in the plasterboard, mounting the brackets on wood then fitting the brackets to the brickwork with very strong masonry bolts.
Not a fun job.
I'm disturbed by how useful and enjoyable I found this video - thanks for doing this - off to buy some Fischer nylon fixings now!
Yanno when you just have a dad question but you live far away and then you find an expert builder man on youtube to fill the gaps? You're the guy. Thanks a lot mate.
Brilliant video. Just buying my first house with dry walls, and this has given me loads of confidence re fixings and weights. Thanks for another stonking video.
Glad to help
No really, a lot of help. Previous houses have all been Victorian or '30s houses. Just bought a brand new house, so really pleased to have this info. Great channel, thanks. @@TheDIYGuy1
Brilliant, good luck with the new house.
Really useful test. Well done. I think to be proper science with repeatable results you'd need to do at least 3 samples of each fixing. Knowing how much variation there is as well as the average failure value would be very useful.
And now we need this experiment for insulated plasterboard (where the toggle fixings for example won't work due to no space to expand into). I presume some of the other clamping types will still work but they may not all expand properly to get a good grip, depending on how they work.
That was very interesting... I've been using those universal plugs for a couple of years on lots of different jobs and haven't had a failure yet. True I've never hung a bucket of water off them but bloody big pictures no problems!
Oh and subbed for more! Very interesting tips and tricks with a bit of real life testing ... which saves me and my customers money!!
Great practical test using two to mount a hook and load it as you would in real application. Compare to a lot of other you tube tests that only test one by itself.
Right on
Loved this demo that you did. Ive been struggling to get a decent plaster plug. Now I know what ones im getting from now on. Cheers buddy.
Can't say I have ever worried much about fixing into plasterboard, or in my case, 150 year old lath and plaster, but due to fixing a cookerhood fan tomorrow, your excellent detailed video has been invaluable. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I will be using the the spring-type that will more than support the 10 or 15 KG I need it to. Thanks again for the video.
With the hollow wall anchors....did you use the little gun to put them in?
I like the tap ins because when the wife changes her mind there’s less damage to cover.😄
So 4 gripit blues should hold up a 50" tv and wall mount?
I love this excellent video. Very good explaination and visible test results. Thanks
Thank you!
I am a girlie of 72, new to DIY, but needs must. This video kept me rivetted as well as informed. Now to go and buy the correct anchor for my plaster board wall. What I will need to know soon, is how to hang 2 pictures (i am an artist and work in concrete and ceramic tiles) weighing 30 kg a piece onto solid walls.
I always use the 10mm Fischer plugs (no2 in the video) for wallmounting tvs and I’ve never had any issues at all over the last 15 years.
👍
Fischer plugs for me are hands down the best plugs around.Screwfix reviews say so as well.
Same just wall hung a 65 inch TV with them as used for years although I did do 20 fixings 😅
Silly question but if i hung something with 4 fittings, would the weight they carry x by 4? Assume it would
Ive got a TV bracket to put up. Its a fixed , flush bracket but the holes are only 200mm apart. I think the best compromise i can do is one side goes into a stud and the other 2 i use gripit blue.
Yeah sounds good 👍
Hej, great video! Having a bit of a specific question here: how long were the screws you used for the fischer duo power plug and what dimension was the plug? It looks like the mechanism didn't function properly so I'm wondering if the screws were too short.
Good video but I would have liked to see you using the setting tool to compress the first wall anchors and showing us what they looked like from the back like you did the second one
Thanks 👍
really great video thanks. One thing I would like to add (apologies if already commented on) is that it doesn't take into account the leverage / cantilever effect. So for example if you mount a wide shelf the force applied because of the cantilever is much greater. I wonder what the figures would be if you mounted a shelf bracket of 30 cm from the wall, and then hung the bucket from the end of the bracket. I'm guessing much lower. Obviously a fixing of this type would normally have 2 or more fixings also. These fixings are great for something heavy that is flush to the wall, I recently hung a heavy electric radiator to my garden room stud wall with hollow wall anchors no problem, and the same principle applies for heavy TV's for example, but for shelves that come out from the wall a long way the forces would be completely different. Anyway top man! Paul
Great idea and I known it sounds laborious but you should change the sheet each time. Some of the tears that you did are close to the wood holders whilst others are in the middle and not to mention all the holes now in the board have compromised the test. But still found very useful thanks
The springtoggle looks good but how do you afix them to the wall_ if you cant go behind the plaster board
The two wings fold along the length of the screw. The hole needs to be large enough to fit this folded assembly into the cavity (about 14mm diameter). As the assembly passes through the hole, the wings spring out sideways. Then you tighten the screw to pull the wings against the back of the plaster. The main problem with these ones is the item to be hanged usually has to be fitted between the screw and the anchor assembly prior to pushing it through the wall.
First off great 👍 video ...I find those grip it fixings are really good but are let down by the plastic pivot you turn to deploy the wings behind the board as they break and snap making removal difficult
👍
Am I incorrect here, but the loading measured surely is only half the recorded weight per fixing as there were two fixings each time, taking half the combined load....? So in actual fact, each fixing only performed to approximately half the test recorded value.....?🤔
I recently came across new ( new to me anyway) plasterboard fixings called GeeFix, they are fairly expensive but very very good. I used them to hang a large mirror and they worked a treat. Not something a kitchen fitter would use everyday due to the cost, but for the odd heavy item much better than fixing a damaged plasterboard.
I've used them once. They are very good for the larger loads
TLDR: use snap toggles (the kinds that looks like a metal bar with a zip tie attached to it) for heavy stuff like a television, use stab-in/tap-in for light loads such as picture frames.
With any toggle style anchor/fixing, it's less a question of how much the anchor can hold, but more a question of how much your wall can hold. They are stronger than your drywall/plasterboard/sheetrock. With other anchors, the questions is about how well they can hold onto the material. That's true for just about any of the true toggle style anchors such as the old school toggle bolt you used before the tap in one, the more modern snap toggles, or self drilling toggles (I don't like the self drilling toggles, but not because of a lack of holding power. I find the mechanism doesn't always engage and the threads that the screw drive into sometimes strip). snap toggles are my favorite of the bunch because they are mechanically very simple unlike the self drilling toggles, but they don't fall into the wall cavity when removed, like old school toggle bolts tend to. The Grip-it anchors aren't worth it at all imo, they're complex, require a giant hole to be drilled, and just like toggles it's dependent on your wall strength. Just use toggles and don't bother with them. As for the smaller anchors, stab in anchors leave very little damage if you need to remove them, and they hold a lot of weight for such an easy to use and non-damaging anchor, those are my preferred type of anchors for lighter loads like photos or brackets for small shelves with multiple screws
You figure you would use multiple tap in anchors for a small children’s book shelf? Or better to stick to the snap or regular toggle? Thanks for the advice!
What width were the Fischer universal fixing?
Also I thing you have to drill them more in plaster as they fan out
I wonder if if matters if the anchors behind the wall are spreading horisontally or vertically?
Great video and has really helped me in the decision making of what to use to mount my TV on the wall. 4 toggles should hold a 8.1kg tv on the wall with no problem 👍🏼
As I expected, the metal spring toggle performed the best, holding 49 kg. I've used these a lot in my house, and friends houses, for fixing heavy curtain rails. Some say the metal wall anchor, sometimes called a molly bolt, is the best, but in your test it did well (holding 36 kg) but not as well as the spring toggle (which held 49 kg). I guess this stands to reason as with the spring toggle you have the load spread out over a larger surface area, the longer the toggle giving greater surface area
Would these be good for MDF when putting up a TV on a bracket?
Any suggestions about what to use to anchor something onto a Kingspan surface? Our old farmhouse has had kingspan applied on the stone walls to provide some insulation, but is a problem as I need to wall mount a TV
Hello, thank you for this! However, I am a bit dense. Which would you recommend for shelf brackets of moderate use?
Love the video, i am just about to fix a slightly heavybathroom cabinet to a plasterboard stud walls, the stud is not positioned to help, so i 'm edging towards the toggle clips
👍
Really interesting video open my eyes 👀 as I always used the Metal screw type for as long as I can remember used them for my clients no issues over the years I was going to try the Gripit fixings but now I’m not sure 🤔 what to do as I’ve saw a Screwfix video and the plumber used the brown Gripit fixings it was 2 x Brown Gripit on the radiators and then stood on top of the radiator so your video showed the Gripit Brown fixing didn’t hold the weight as it stated on the packet Hmmm 🤔 what to do do I stay with the Metal self drilling into the plaster board !! Great video by the way thank you for honest display of various fixings
Cheers. Glad it was somewhat useful
What’s best to use to hang a 5kg mirror on a very thick plasterboard wall? The problem I have is the small diameter of the screw needed but the length not being enough to pass through into the hollow cavity behind the plasterboard.
Very helpful video. Thank you, can you please what should I use to hang kitchen cabinets on plasterboard wall please ?
For cabinets full of heavy items you will want to attach to something solid behind the plasterboard. So wood screws if you are hitting joists or masonry screws and plugs if you are hitting bricks.
Absolutely superb test mate🤘 my only criticism is that those 4th Fischer universal plugs were not tightened properly. Possibly could hold even heavier weight that all ✌️
Have two buckets to pour water from one to the other 😂 good vid, thanks.
Going to put a TV up in a day or so about 15kg and was going to go for the screw in type but will be going for the hollow ones you used at the start of the video now. 31kg from only 2 so I will be using at least 4 or 6 and hopefully get a stud in the middle.
👍
Great video and very useful test. In my experience the Grip it’s are a poor fixing. Not only do other cheaper fixings hold better but the initial hole required is far too big especially if you with to move things afterwards.
Thanks for sharing
I've used them and thought exactly the same.
Still prefer butterfly bolts as the load is spread over wider area. When hanging a radiator on plasterboard also use adhesive on the rear of the brackets to further spread the load and risk of slippage when little Johnnie decides to sit or jump on the radiator!!
Good tip to use adhesive. Sticks like shit for me because 9 year old Grandaughter gets to say shit when helping me 🤣.
@@paulboro6036 Also u could use high density sound or fire rated plaster board at 30kg for 2.4m x 1.2m.
Difficult for daddy to punch a hole in it when he's drunk or throws a chair at it, never mind little Johnnie!!
Used 4x Blue Grip-it fixings for my 50" TV bracket....been up over 2 years without any issues
I'm glad otherwise I'd be speaking to someone who has a broken tv😊
Surely you forgot to add the 20kg weight back in for the Gripit Blue? Be interesting to see how these fare when used vertically, as for a ceiling mount of something like a heavy light fixture.
Thanks for making this video. I'm new to mounting things on drywall. I now know what to stock up on. 🙂
Is the plasterboard not getting weaker with every hole drilled into it, therefore making it an unfair test on the last fixings tested?
Very helpful. I was scared to mount my 17kg bathroom cabinet.
Thanks bro
Would you recommend using the normal universal wall plugs for a 6kg mirror?
really insightful! love the scientific method being employed!
QQ -> I was told that say i need to hang a mirror on the wall (50KG).
if i use 3x rule plugs they should hold it as its 20KG X 3 = 60KG. does that maths stand up ? I am skeptical but would love to know what people think?
Great video but I wonder about the placement of the fixings. When placing the 2nd, 3rd, 4th experiment next to the holes where the previous fixing have been ripped out surely the structural integrity of the plasterboard is not as strong.
The fixing is only as strong as the immediate amount of.plasterboard material around it, sure.
I have the problem with insufficient space behind the plasterboard for some of these to expand properly, so the gripit ones are a good solution.
👍
Cut a ply patress into the wall. Its better than any plasterboard fixing and if you buy
I've got a triple layered plasterboard wall in my understairs cupboard, only realised when I drilled for a Bullfix. I think I'm limited to a metal self tapper unless anyone has a better idea?
a question what plaster board was u using the gray for normal one or the pink one for fire resistant and what thickness of board
Regular plasterboard 12.5mm thick
Need to try "bull fix" wall plugs, best I've used for some time
How do these work when there's panel insulation behind?
How do Gripit test their fixings then? Ive used them for ages with my wall mounted tv's and was always told that the limit was per fixing
This is a great video. Always love plasterboard fixings comparisons. Just to add to your list, snaptoggle is a great choice of fixing, I use a lot to fit heavy tvs, about £1 each. The only draw back, I guess with any toggle type fixings is it need 50mm cavity to work. Also I find that it don’t work with insulations. But they claim it holds over 100kg each. Which I am not a believer of. Duo power my second favourite
Correct me if I am wrong - I think if you divided the results in half would be more fair as you did use 2 fixings for it. Theoretically, they should have held up whatever they claims x2
Your probably right :)
Hi, my tv weighs 9.9kg, I will attach it to wall mount and put as many screws as possible roughly 12 on each side(depending on which wall mount I purchase) I wont use a snap toggle it seems like I will have to make a really big hole, which other plug or self screw do you recommend please?
@@neoloanderson6676 9.9 kg, even 4x duo power will be more than enough (go with 8 to be on the safe side). I’d avoid full motion brackets on plasterboard walls, if you must, go with one with a big back plate.
@@tonygoshive785 Thank you for your quick response, I will order now, should arrive later on this evening 🤞🏾, wish me luck.
Many thanks!
Any advice for fitting a heavy blind onto plasterboard ceiling?
I just weighed my tv its 9.9kg and I need to attach it to a wall mount, do you think the more wall plugs and or screws I use, the better the hold.
How much is the jet of water adding to the load?
As you can tell by this like fifth comment. i've been binge watching your videos all day lol. A general explainer on different types of wall plugs would be great.
Haha thanks!! Glad your liking the channel. Good idea
The Gripit is a newly discovered anchor in my world.
The last one you demonstrated failed essentially just as you began the test. The failure appeared immediately upon releasing the weight.
As did the others in a way.
Keeping adding weight after the bumping out was appearing was where they proved they were done.
An interesting test, but still not a real world condition.
But it did accurately give a good indication of how these products would work.
Moral of the story is never come anywhere near the promised strength.
what size screw did you use on the Fischer nylon?
The best video on that topic I've ever watched
Help! I have lathe & Plaster walls and don't know what type of fixings to use when hanging pictures and mirrors 🤔🫣🤔
Currently looking for fixings for aquapanel cement board. Will be using adhesive also. Problem is my house built in 80s, builders were too lazy to put studwork in partition wall, it's three plasterboard stuck together, so no cavity either. Its 12.5mm one side, 19mm in the middle and 12.5mm the other side.
Aquapanel manufacturer says it's not designed for fixing like that but I haven't got much choice. No way of taking it all down and rebuilding either.
Any suggestions?
I have always used the tap-in expanding fixings so impressed with their performance 👍 Have also tried the metal screw in ones but won’t be buying them in future based on your tests. Have never used the beefier expanding metal toggle type cos never really been confident about attaching big loads to plasterboard but very impressed with them - you obviously need the space behind for the toggles to expand which could be an issue if you are fixing close to battens, etc.
Great video 😊
Absolutely agree. Cheers 👍
Try geefix the 🐕🐕 doodassss
Wish I’d watched this video earlier today. Only a few hours ago I used the metal self drilling fixings for a bathroom cabinet and now I’m having to refill the wall and start again
Ouch. You've got it covered this time 👍
My dad always recommended the spring toggle fixings over 40yrs ago which says something about the design. Two points I would make is that the spring toggles were let down by the plasterboard wall rather than themselves plus the hook you used had 2x fixings and I would think that the manufactures ratings would refer to the load a single fixing could handle? I does make me wonder how they did their own testing? I suspect a pull rather than downward load was used? I have no real idea. 🤔😄
You could well be right 😁
Got no respect for those gravity deniers! 😺
Try the Tap-In fixing but put it in horizontally, it might hold more weight. I've used them for ages and they're great. We can get them in a box of 200 for around €8.
Can you do an update to include the Fischer Duotec please.
A really helpful and well thought out video, reminds me of the Skill Builder channel which is another favourite.
One suggestion if you ever replicate this test is to have each fixing type centred between two uprights to fairly compare as they’ll be under the same flex and board strength. But that’s a really picky one and the video was great, keep it up!!
Thanks for your comments
Great point made on position of fixing for a better comparison
I've got heavy duty metal shelving to fix to plasterboard walls. Not to hold weight up but just to keep properly upright, as if they slope too much to oneside there's a risk of collapse. What's the best option?
I was always sceptical about the tap-in fittings, but their sheer convenience has won me over - ideal for heavier picrure frames etc.
I agree. Performed way better than I thought they would!
Are you excluding the weight of the bucket and chain?
Best ever are geefix 👍👍👍👍 no other plasterboard fixing comes close
I've not used those ones. I will keep my eye out for them 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 give them a try and a weight test 👍👍👍💯💯💯
Geefix are decent but bullfix have been my go to lately. The smaller of the two available sizes requires a minimum cavity of just 7mm, and the larger requires 20mm. They are roughly half the price as well, for the starter kit anyway, and if you buy the box of 96 they're about 73p each.
@@rodgerq same company different fix 😂😂😂
@@paul_my_plumbs_uk oh that's interesting, I didn't know that.
Another great video, lots of info thank you, it musy have taken quite some time to set up.
Glad you found it helpful. Oh yes.... Around 2 very long days to set up/record and edit.
disappointed at the lack of Geefix fixings and a lack of variety in the fixings in general but all in all, the video and experiment was well done.
Hi mate, whts dry wall thickness ? 10mm OR 13mm
Nice and useful. Thank you.
I’ve bought the grip it fixings to hang a tv, I’m not sure they are good enough now though??
I usually find at least one upright and if the item is heavy i often cut out the plasterboard and fit a 3 x 3 horizontal wooden batten between uprights anf screw diagonally
Then i dont need plugs
The plasterboard is always going to fail witht any weight
I think you forgot to add the 20kg weight in your total for the blue grip it.
I discovered Grip it last year whilst installing a new radiator in my bathroom. One side of the wall was fine for my bracket but the other side was breaking with normal plasterboard plugs.
I drilled the original radiator bracket to add 2 screws. 4 blue grip it in total on that side. That radiator would probably resist an earthquake!
I think the test depends on how the weight of the object/piece of furniture spreads.
In the example of a radiator the bracket will even out the weight rather well.
Thanks for the comparison video.
Grateful for your demo, I benefited a lot from this video. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
On the last section you should have filmed the back of the wall to show if the grip it fixing "wings" actually spread out behind the plasterboard , to me they looked like they are not deep enough to go through and spread out . Interesting tests though .
Interesting that the spring toggle did not fail in and of itself, i.e. it didn't break, the screw didn't pull out of it, it did not pull out of the hole, it stayed working just fine until the plasterboard failed, and a large piece got ripped out.
Essentially the spring toggle load capacity is determined by the strength of the board, not the fixing. It would be interesting to see how they performed in 15mm board. And with one above and one below a noggin.
Plus a test of nylon toggles, e.g. Fischer DuoTec.
I have a picture hanging business in Australia and only use about 3 types of fixings. Anything over 20kg's I make my own brackets. Thanks for the video, it was interesting.
Sounds great! Thanks
How do you install the fisher springs?
loved your video - many thanks. do you think the results would be similar when used on a ceiling?
Take the weight with a pinch of salt , due to the length of the chain and bucket from the fixing point acting like levwrage , it probably shows less as what they can hold . If the weight was at the fixing point they would probably fair better . But great video 👍
The Grip Its are a bit overkill for what they're for. The brown one may be rated at 93KG, but unfortunately it's limited by the strength of the plasterboard.
Also the self drilling ones, I wonder if they would have done better if you drilled a pilot hole first.
Possibly, as you say only as strong as the board!
@@TheDIYGuy1 Based on your video I recently tried the Gripits and the spring toggles to hang up guitars and TV's. While the spring toggles are more secure, the problem was that there was only about 10-15mm of clearance between the plasterboard and a brick wall, which rendered the spring toggles useless, but the Gripits were the solution for it as they needed very little clearance. Sure, I could have drilled into the brick, but I would have needed a hammer action drill for it.
So for anyone hanging a TV up, drill a small hole first to determine how deep you can drill, how thick the plasterboard is and how much clearance you've got underneath before spending any money on fixings or drilling bigger holes. Gripit sell a TV mounting kit with the blues and they have 20mm M8 bolts, which are shorter than the 30mm ones they sell with the standard blues, plus the 25mm drill bit as well.
Does the principles of levers increase the weight loading ? As the Gripits are wall hanging rather than hook fittings. Wondering ?
Quite possibly yes
The grip it ones are meant to be all 4 together to hold the combined weight they state?
Quite possibly but each product received a fair test of 1 fixing per product
Thank you so much! This is exactly the info I need to know for my DIY job this weekend! 😊👍
I have ordered the grip it blue for my oled tv,, difference being is that I will be using 6 within the hanging frame and as it only needs to hold 22kilos should be fine, I think the guide weights they say it holds is misleading ,, perhaps with several being used over an area they could probably get close, but never to the 110kg's they advertise.
👍
Interestingly on my wall in my games room, the plasterboard is 12.5mm, behind it looks like insolation foam, it was quite a job turning the screw to release those two wings attached to the grip screw. have you ever come across a wall like that before with no studs, just foam insolation and plasterboard stuck to it?@@TheDIYGuy1
Good test Thanks!
Any of these any good for double layer of plasterboard or when a lath and plaster ceiling has been overboarded?