Prusa MK4 / XL Nozzle Review & Hotend Assembly (Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter VS Prusa Nozzle)
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- Опубліковано 18 лют 2024
- In this video I will talk you through the differences between Prusa Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter and Prusa Nozzle and demostrate how to assemble new hotend from scratch.
Printables:
www.printables.com/@SSD_16371...
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@StudioSpaceDust
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Have absolutely 0 complaints for the obsidian nozzels. They are amazing. I've upgraded all of mine to them, currently waiting on the silicon sleeves thou. Love the video! Wish I had seen it before I figured it out myself. Luckily when I ordered my printer I also ordered the obsidian nozzel as well figured would eventually need a new one.....a few weeks in the brass nozel had a big clog and I've been printing with the obsidian one since...that was in February and the printer has been going almost non stop since. It's mid-June now, and it's still going strong!
Thanks for the good words! I managed to clog one obxidian sadly. It was with NGEN, most likely because of too fast infill speed (used original material profile from prusa slicer…)… so I would only say this: when you are testing new filament, put old brass nozzle and run a test print, because if it clogs you will loose cheaper nozzle. And be very careful if you’re printing TPU/FLEX. I had to drop speed significantly to get that going.
@StudioSpaceDust great advice, I have 2 spools of TPU waiting for my first try after I mass print for an even I've been working towards for a week, lol. Then, I can resume my "research," also known as aimlessly wandering in the dark, lol.
@@VikingVeteranArtisan we are all here just dust in the space my friend and 3D printing passion unites us all 😎🔥 good luck with TPU and your project!
@StudioSpaceDust Thank you. Keep up the amazing work!
This was awesome advice. Thank you so much for sharing. I just got my MK four and didn’t know how to handle the different nozzle options. This gives me the wisdom. Once again thank you.
Its an awesome printer, just be mindful with small detail printing, it can clog the nozzle. It will come with 0.4mm brass nozzle - use it to learn, install ObXidian after you have better idea of how slicing works. Brass nozzle will print everything its just that it will wear quicker if you print abrasive materials such as CF. Also, its safe and I recommend installing silicone sock with prusa needle, while with nozzle adaptor I would not recommend. And between ~10h print time make sure nozzle doesnt get loose within heater block. It will print even if its loose but safer to tighten it. I will make video how to maintain MK4 later. So stay tuned. You need to do that every ~200h print time. Otherwise - welcome to the team Prusa :)
@@StudioSpaceDust, Sorry I should have been more specific. I own two MK3 for the last four years and I am going to replace them slowly with the MK4s. So it is the new features and hardware of the MK4 I am new to. I did buy the socks based on your recommendation. Previously, I found them a pain with the MK3, but you have changed my mine for the MK4. I had hardened Steel nozzles for the MK3 and was wondering what the equivalent was for the MK4. I will check out the ObXidian. I print a lot of board game inserts so 0.6 and 0.8 comes in handy. I am excited to experience swapping the different sizes out quickly. It is my main reason to upgrade since it was such a pain in the MK3. I look forward to your next video on maintaining the MK4 video or any video about the new nozzle formats. thx
Understood. Since manufacturer of Prusa nozzle is E3D, the only available option from them when it comes to hardened steel nozzle is ObXidian, which is at the moment only available in 0.4 and 0.6 mm. I’ll aim to make short video how to quick change Prusa nozzle asap. Thanks for good idea.
I've begun using a small butane torch and heating the nozzles (both Prusa and V6) until red hot which vaporizes any filament inside. For the block, I heat it only until the filament starts to bubble and remove residue with a brass brush. I also have a vapor blaster which is an abrasive blaster using high pressure water. It effectively can restore all the parts to near new condition without compromising them although it is non-essential; heating the parts to high temperature achieves >90 of the desired result.
A couple of caveats. The feed tubes appear to be press fit and when heating the threaded part, the heat will loosen the tube and it can fall out from metal expansion unless its kept vertical until it cools. Care must be taken when heating the block as the aluminum can easily melt.
Using a torch has allowed me to salvage many hot ends that I might otherwise have tossed out.
This is very inspiring. I believed I have done exactly that trying to salvage one clogged obXidian nozzle but I didn’t go till its glow red, so maybe I will give it a go another time. :) appreciate such a sincere comment 🙏 thank you sir
As an XL user I have had hundreds of hours of printing using two v6 adapters and two v6 PCD diamond nozzles I used a little boron nitride thermal paste on the threads and used a torque wrench on the nozzle though i had to guess at the level of torque for the adapter. My biggest issue was when I had a nasty PC-CF clog once in the adapter and was able to clean it by heating the adapter and using a purge tool to push out the stuck bit of filament, (the non Prusa PC-CF I was using was a super brittle nightmare out of the box and was prone to jamming from the filament cracking and breaking apart at various points in the filament path luckily the printer usually detected this and stopped before it ruined the print but all the halts made everything take much longer and the process unpleasant. 100% filament issue, though I am not sure i could have removed that clog as easily in a standard nextruder nozzle.). My generation of nextruders came with 0.6mm nozzles which while okay were not printing with the quality and detail i wanted from my printer and after others reported having success with 0.4 and that i already had several nice v6 nozzles for my voron using an adapter made sense to me. I did order the 2 to 5 print head upgrade which if they come with 0.4 nozzles i will likely keep as is as i can’t see myself needing to print with more than two abrasive filaments at a time and i agree that the unified nozzle is great and has benifits for most things. I remember trying a hardened tool steel nozzle on my Voron and while it worked I did find myself having to constantly tweak temperatures to get the same results as my brass nozzles hence why i tried a diamond nozzle which in theory has much higher thermal conductivity and lower friction so in theory easier printing with difficult plastics. They are expensive and for sure not needed by most people though recently i found a copy cat PCD diamond nozzle for half the price which i am testing now… I would describe it as a good value compared to the original but my impression is the original looks ever so slightly more polished.
Thanks for sharing! I found that neither with ObXidian neither with Nozzle X (with nextruder adapter) i did not have to raise print temperatures. I used OG Prusa Slicer material presets. With Prusament it worked. And i didn’t have any quality or adhesion issues. I do print with an enclosure so not sure if it helps, i printed PETG-CF, prints like a charm and also did small print of PC Blend from Prusa with ObXidian, also printed just fine. I only so far had issue with FilaFlex40 from Filatech yesterday it loaded and it came out via nozzle but once i started actual print it immediately clogged, i then stopped the print and unloaded filament and reloaded with PETG which managed to ram through. So no more Flex for me, but its MK4 issue i think, there are lots of people discussing that Nextruder doesnt grip well on soft filaments, but regarding all hard filaments im a big fan of Prusa nozzle. As you said, maybe if you use some binding agent for nozzle adaptor it can work, but then if you glue it can you later still change the nozzle, or do you need to clean? And how long it takes? Also as I know originally Prusa XL shipped with 0.6mm but i believe now they changed to 0.4mm.
@@StudioSpaceDust I print fine with both the Polymaker PCMax and 3DxTech ezPC on my XL if I use a really good higher temp bed adhesive the first spool of ezPC-CF I got from them was the brittle one it would break it just loading it into the extruder and could be snapped in your hand with no effort. I have a spool of PA6-CF nylon that I printed some voron parts in using my voron but have not tried on my XL because it has no enclosure. My thermal issues with hardened nozzles were early on with my voron printing fast.. The XL thus far has been a nice printer though I do miss the speed and controls of my voron. As to the boron nitride it is not a glue it is a high temp thermal paste i got when I was switching hot ends on my voron and continue to use when I want to improve thermal contact in the heater block, no idea if it helps sealing the nozzle... it wants to be dust and stain everything but i could see it helping gap fill the threads for any nozzle... I mentioned it as a possible reason I am having better luck using an adapter. As I would be truly surprised if your MK4 vibrates more than my XL with all it's tool changing and the corexy design movement.
As to flex filaments I thus far have only printed a flex PLA and a 92A TPU I find the PLA a touch easier with the TPU needing me to remove the PTFE tube from the extruder and carefully pushing it past the filament sensor. It works but yes I think printing soft filaments on a nextruder is always going to be hit and miss. Hence why I have the voron... it is where i try all the weird stuff.
@@carolynhudson6858 Interesting, I was hoping XL being core XY would superseed Voron. But to be honest, its still early days with XL, there are still a lot of bugs, give it another year for them to work out firmware i think. Regarding Extruder adaptor I think one potential issue is that heater block is made of aluminium, the adapter is brass and nozzle is hardened steel, I`m no expert but three different metals may have different heat retention properties and so on resulting in parts loosening up within heating/cooling cycles. To install prusa nozzle there is no need to heat the heaterblock before screwing in the nozzle unlike when installing nozzles via adapter requires to heat up hotend before tightening, and it still didnt help me. Witin 100 hours or so it got loose, then i tightened it, while hot, I tightened from top (the adapter) and from bottom (the nozzle) and I still got a leak. Potential improvement may be third party V6 heaterblocks. Also regarding PC, if you want to print it on XL try Prusament PC Blend Carbon Fiber Black 800g, if you can get hold of it as its always out of stock, reviews seem to be praising this material a lot but its just never available.
This is THE best solution for using the V6 adapter. The boron nitride fills in the gaps, much like plumbing paste does for plumbers, while also preventing the materials from bonding so tightly they cannot be separated.
@@StudioSpaceDust it’s hard to supersede a moving target like the voron. But the tool changing in the XL while not a first by any means is what makes it shine. Five tool changing while expensive and complicated to get right is so interesting even if you only ever use it for color swaps I took a logo from a friend’s business website, converted it to a vector file and extruded the forms into a 3d logo even using stacking of different layers to make colors beyond the 5 filaments I had loaded. I have also tried some mixed material prints but those are a much fussier print. If I had one wish for the xl it would be a toss up between faster cou for a full klipper + touchscreen interface or a good enclosure for printing plastics that like to warp bed adhesive helps but it’s no cure all.
Nice video :)
Thank you for making great nozzles!
I recently bought a different pack of the nozzle in Aliexpress, it works very well, my advice is that before you install the nozzle and the hotel, try to hot it first and then install them together, because if you don't probably you will have a problem
Thermistor! = thermostat! To control something thermostatically, you need sensor, logicand effector, and thermistor is only that: a temperature sensor. Fancy word for a resistor with predictable resistance change wit temperature rise. In this case - resistance gets lower with rising temp, hence Negative Temperature Coefficient.
3:37 order components (seperatly)
The best solution I've come up with to fix your stuck filament in the threads of the heat block is to get a bronze cleaning brush from a gun store. Those bronze cleaning brushes come in a bunch of different sizes. the .22 caliber or .25 caliber cleaning brushes would be good choices. Mount one of these in a drill and then carefully use the brush to remove the plastic on the threads. The brushes are typically made out of bronze, aluminum and steel, so you can even heat up the heat block before using the brush. This will clean out the filament remnants. That said, be careful with how aggressive you clean it. The heat block is aluminum which is relatively soft and you can wear away the aluminum quickly if you are too aggressive, ruining the heat block completely. I cleaned out my clone heat block by heating it to the point the filament was smoking, then one pass with the cleaning brush in a drill at low speed removed all the filament residue completely...
While I was screwing Prusa Nozzle into heat block after the leak I cross threaded walls, so in this case it will not work because Its ruined, but this tip of boron nitride and bronze brush on a drill sounds like a plan. If I ever get to use Nextruder Adapter again Ill know better how to deal with leaks issue. Using Prusa nozzle eliminates all this hassle though...BUT if somebody has a specific nozzle they want to use this may be a great tip. Thank you for the practical advise. I think using metal brush on a drill + heating might at least help salvage the nozzle X nozzles, or clean Obxidian tips from outside when regular bronze brush is helpless.
@@StudioSpaceDust The main reason they made the V6 adapter is a lot of people (like me) have many specialty nozzles for the older V6 hotends. I have around a dozen 0.4 hardened tool steel nozzles for the V6 hotend and the adapter allows me to use these expensive nozzles in the MK4. And yes, Boron Nitride is like plumbers sealant for 3D Printer enthusiasts. It helps seal up the threads, while making the parts not seize together...
dude thats fuckin awful advice... if you have aleak let it go... dude no... at the worst case sceneario you can remove all parts and fuckin blast them with a flame until all the plastic burns away and they get red hot... then theyre like brand new
If you do that then: 1) you melt aluminum heater block 2) hardened steel nozzle becomes ruined if you exceed 300C or whatever is set as max temp by manufacturer. Thats why some use soldering iron, so that they dont overheat it. But if you want to blast it, of course it’s your choice. Not to mention your cables will melt too, in some cases, as in mine thermistor cable was melted to heater block, blasting it with flame would have just burnt it. This can i ly be done with Prusa brass nozzle. I have done it myself after i clogged it, in that case, yes it worked, I also used 2mm drill to remove filament stuck inside.