Printing AllPHA on MK4. 0% Microplastics. 100% Biobased. 100% Biodegradable. Made out of fat cells.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- In this video I will review ColorFabb`s AllPHA, one of the most sustainable filaments available on the market. It contains no micro plastics and is made out of fat cells of bacteria. It is 100% Biobased and 100% Biodegradable.
Printables:
www.printables....
Instagram:
@StudioSpaceDust
#Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters
I've struggled like you with the colorfabb PHA. tried different combinations of 3DLac and Brim on my P1P but nothing worked for bigger objects. I also damaged one build plate with the 3DLac + Brim combination. I even contacted the support. They have a test lab and can test your models on their 3D Printers and give you advice (best support I got in touch yet). Unfortunatly they also know the limits of the filament at the current state. here is their answer: "Sorry the material is not yet working well for your situation. We understand the current limits of the material and it's an ongoing project of our R&D team to improve on the original allPHA grade. We hope, like you, one day we'll be able to achieve ease or printing similar to PLA. Your story and experience is incredibly valuable and will contribute to keep pushing the limits of PHA!"
Have you tried the PHA from Regen? I heard that their filament is a bit easier to print than the allPHA
Hello and thank you for your comment. I can also detest that colorFabb’s support is top of the line. Initially when my prints failed and I managed to ruin my plate I complained to them and they issued me a refund. Only after that I realised that heating the bed eases up the removal and contacted them back saying no refund is needed but they just issued it anyways. It’s good to know that they admitted limits of allPHA to you. If it was truly so easy to print everybody would be using it. Unfortunately not…but they have PLA-PHA in their range, this, as I understand is easier to print? But then it’s not 100% bio based, so there is a trade off… I have not tested PHA from Regen, but let me know if you manage to get your hands on it at some point.
Wow very cool- I like your upgrades to your Mk4 as well.
I might try this material, I’ve had trouble in the past with my room too cold.
Subscribed!
Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Thank you sir! Form Futura’s TitanX and ApolloX prints even easier than Ultrafuse Abs+ if you ever want to give it another shot! They sell small sample rolls of 250g so even if it fails you wont loose much.
Glass bed + PVA wood glue.
This is now my go to filament.
Thanks for sharing. Does that successfully mitigate warping for larger prints?
With the addition of lily pads (also called mouse ears or anti-warp discs) placed on the corners of the print, yes.
@@StudioSpaceDust Yes, I've printed a Dactyl Manuform keyboard (typing on it now). I used lily pads on the 2nd half and it had really strong adhesion to the build plate (no warping). The 1st half warped badly with only PVA wood glue and no lily pads (still usable though). Getting the bed leveled evenly with the nozzle super close to the bed (squishing the filament) was important too.
I was also strugling with this material on bambu p1s. I needed to print many small parts. I also tried to make the print as cold as possible. I even brought an extra fan in front of the machine on top of a stool ;D. Big brims helped too.
Thanks for sharing :) seems like its a struggle we all share :)
Thank you! I experiment with this stuff for a while already and didn’t even think about using a hot bed for removal
Hey, thanks for your comment. Hot bed to 90C+ and wooden scraper(not to ruin hot bed coating) is the only way I managed to remove those prints safely.
Use a painter's knife. Not just in this case, but any time you even consider using a scraper, use a painter's knife instead. One with a sharp front edge, but large enough to lie flat on the bed and you won't be scratching anything.
Thank you for your advice, I have few of those. Ill keep this in mind next time 🙏 but with Alpha, when cold, this would not have helped. With heated bed, instead of wooden scraper, very likely.
Its impossible to remove these PHA ColorFabb+3Dlac print using a painter's knives. No matter how sharp you get them.
Ask me how I know.
Thank you for the video.
Could you try the classic PVA glue stick, with water as a release agent?
The reason I tried 3d lac is because it is specified by ColorFabb in their technical data sheet. I suppose glue stick could work to some extent but I will leave it for others to try. Technically 3d lac is stronger than PVA glue stick anyways and even with it I couldn't prevent warp 100%. I think what would really help is dropping ambient temperature really low. Like as low as you can get in winter in a basement. But I wont be able to test that too. Or also if you could drop print speed even more, but again, then print times will be unfeasible. Or if printed with 3d lac on a glass sheet. But this is another story.
Interesting! What about enclosed/heated chamber to get rid of the warping?
The more heat the more warp with this one. After filament leaves nozzle it takes quite a while to solidify (compared to pla/petg) thats why it is recommended to have 100% fan from 1st layer. I originally tested this material with closed door of enclosure and internal temperature was ~28C which resulted in more warp than later when I opened enclosure door, turned internal enclosure fan on an even opened window nearby which dropped temperature to ~23C which resulted in prints with less warp, so if one can drop it even lower maybe warp could be eliminated altogether. Direct AC feed to enclosure, this would be a fun test :)
Tg of PHA is -5 c to 10c, A heated chamber accelerate the crystallization and increases the rate of warping.
If the material likes cold so much how about letting the bed cool after first layer to promote adhesion? It might even help reduce warping. And then heat at the end to remove the part? I run my bed at 40 degrees with polyterra, the material just prefers cold beds.
Anyhow thank you for testing and reporting. It's nice to see materials you can print tat with knowing it won't turn into micro plastics.
Hello and thanks for your comment, I think it makes sense what you are saying but if I can add to that thought id say pause would be needed between every say… 5 layers or so because adhesion of first layer is not an issue as sheet is cold in the beginning but the bigger the print the more thermal mass it stores and I suppose heat goes down to base causing warp at later stage of the print. But really good idea! Worth testing.
@@StudioSpaceDust It definitely won't be as straightforward I'm sure ^^
It's interesting to hear that adhesion is good on a cold bed, would allow for very energy efficient printing on top of the eco friendly nature of the filament.
The issue indeed often is that filament stores heat too efficiently, even with fans on full blast it will only cool so quick. Maybe side blowers like bambu and voron printers do is the key to keeping temperatures in check.
I have high hopes for PHA I'd love to finally have true eco friendly material to work with. I might grab a spool for myself to check it out. It's just a little pricey for my taste :/
I've subscribed to your channel to keep an eye out for you future expirements
Thanks again for sharing, keep up the good work :D
Yup, low energy bill is definitely a big advantage. Even with little warp it’s still a good material for simple prints. Those who want more dimensional stability may go for PLA/PHA mix, a bit of a compromise but still more sustainable than regular PLA.
@@StudioSpaceDust If you mix PLA and PHA, you remove the natural ability to biodegrade and need to ensure the print is discarded into an industrial composting facility.
PLA is not a natural polymer and it not found in nature. Therefore it needs the higher temps to begin the hydrolysis process and ensure bacteria can in fact break it down. And in addition, PLA in a marine environment does in fact turn into toxic microplastics. PLA isn't biocompatible with humans and mammal either.
PHA on the other hand, is a natural biopolymer created by nature. And is fully biocompatible, hence their application in internal medicine for the past 20+ years. And does not require any specific or special conditions to natural biodegrade other than bacterial activity.
When you mix PLA and PHA as Regen brand of 3D filament does with their claimed 100% "PHA" filament (its not). And those that printed part into your home compost bed. You've basically created the perfect high speed delivery mechanism to introduce PLA micro and nano plastic into your soil. Or worse into a marine environment.
ColorFabb does over a mix PLA and PHA filament, but are very clear on their proper end of life.
So, please discard those types of prints into the regular garbage pile and do not try to compost them. Or leave them exposed to the environment.
Where can I find the 100% VOC carcinogenic non-recyclable filament that turns entirely into microplastics upon exposure to UV light?
Good question, will need to do some research :)
PLA
how is it warping when its near impossible to remove it from the sheet? is it warping from pulling it off the sheet? Have you tried printing on glass?
It is possible to remove it from the sheet if it is heated to 90C+ but not from cold sheet. Brim and 3d lac helps to mitigate warp but i do not recommend using 3d lac as even heated to 120C its hard to remove. As you said it would be better to do that on a glass sheet. But glass sheets are old school, no affordable printer manufacturer uses those any more as majority of people print PLA or PETG or sometimes ASA, PC or PA which are also okish on flex sheet. This video is testing AllPHA on MK4, if I had Ultimaker with a set of glass sheets to test it on I would, but I dont.
@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the reply I just bought an A1 mini with PHA filament from beyondplastic they just released their second gen PHA filament
Hey no problem, thanks for asking. In this video it was all about AllPHA from ColorFabb, so I'm not sure if this will imply to this filament you mentioned as I am not familiar with that, especially since its from another manufacturer. There are other filaments even from ColorFabb like PLA/PHA which are 100% biodegradable but they are not 0% microplastics as AllPHA. I have not tested them but I would assume they print much easier than AllPHA since they are probably mixed with PLA. PHA on its own is made out of fat cells of bacteria, and then some added colour pigment, that's why its harder to print it. Just googled the filament you mentioned. Seems liks its 100% PHA, so let me know once you tried printing. Maybe you have better experience!
@@StudioSpaceDust i printed my first print on the A1 mini and changed the recommended print settings, no warping, no brim, printed on textured PEI amazing filament but i printed about the size of a bottle cap yet still very impressive results for PHA from beyond plastic, came off fairly easily no heated bed required. Edit: tiny tiny bit of warping but not visible to my eye upon first impressions
Tha ks for the update, sounds similar to ColorFabbs AlPHA, if you later print bigger object like those boxes in my video let me know, also is PHA from Beyond Plastics also easy to cut and scratch prone?