Hi Rich! Thanks for the video! Well pronounced my name, it is a difficult Dutch word haha :). Looks like a great tool, not too much chip out for the softer woods as well. Quite a fast cut and good design and probable worth its cost! Glad to be part of the discussion and so great that you purchased it so quickly. Would of course be cool to see how it compares to the Mafell but I am looking into a converter to 110 volts if I can possibly can get the Skillsaw. I think that mafell had a special designed chain against chipout and probably has some better features but that is the least they could do for the extra bucks. Really look forward to your insight in the future with this saw. Thank you for the effort and hopefully it fits in your workflow! Kind regards, Tom
Hi Tom: I'm using the saw carpentry chain saw several times per day. The saw is relatively light in weight and well balanced. The only thing I've noticed is that the saw pushes a little hard once the riving knife enters into the wood. All in all, I'm already seeing a big time savings compared to the 4 cuts with the Makita 10-1/4".
Hi Tom: I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence. The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered by backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut. Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning. I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC. With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
@@theMainetimberframer hi Rich, thank you very much for the updates! Seems like the saw is worh having in the shop and is acting like a solid work horse. It is much faster i then rotating for a circ saw i think so worth investing on it! Does the chain dull quickly? Glad it gives square cuts that well. Thanks again and all the best wishes for the holiday season! Kind regards, Tom
I bought this saw today and used it to cut 8"x12" douglas fir and it had a really hard time! Have you experienced this? I tried toe in and toe out, really bogged down and cut clogged up with sawdust pretty bad
I found with deep timber cuts the chips will load up between the chainsaw and the riving knife. Backing out slightly releases the chips and then I can continue to cut. I have not operated the saw with a vacuum system…. Yet.
Skill is doing some good work on their tool line up. Nice cut and everything. Curious how you lay out for that end cut? or don't, maybe just a tick or is there a full cut line where you line up the jig plate? You've probably covered this in the past. I'm all about cutting steps in the process, I could see once this system is set in place and use you can move through timber efficiently. What's this saw cost? similar to the 16" circ saw? I could look it up, sorry being lazy. I had a kit years ago that put a bar on the skill worm saw but didn't like it.
Hi Timberdoodles: Yes, I think Skil is doing some good work - I sold my Makita 16-5/16” after using and buying the Skil 16-5/16” - it has a bigger saw table and more stable for sure. For the offset: I strike a line perpendicular to the end, line up the off set piece on the line, then touch off the fence and clamp. Remove the off set and cut using the fence. The cost of the saw is $699 - cheap compared to Mafell! The chain has a tooth on every link for better cutting finish. Frankly, my initial assessment is that the spt55 should have more power. I bought an extra chain for it. A quick note: fill the oil slowly as there is a filter in the filler tank. And yes I poured oil all over the saw when filling. I thinking sawing without the fence would not give the desired end cut result…. I need a quicker fence set up. I have a couple ideas for that… It is for sure quicker than cutting 4 times with the Makita 10-1/4.
@@theMainetimberframer Good input. Nice system. I don't cut any drops with four cuts, free handing with pencil lines with my chainsaw, gas or electric, depends on which is handy and sharp. but I like this set up.
Hi Timberdoodles: After some more cutting - I think the saw has enough power, what I noted is that when the riving knife enters the cut, the saw pushes a little harder. The riving knife has a taper on both front sides to help the entry of the the riving knife into the cut...I'm going to add some dry lube to the riving knife to see whether it helps. Overall, this saw is a time saver for initial end cuts for sure!
I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence. The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered by backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut. Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning. I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC. With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
That's a hard working 2x4 you have there in your roof 🙃 If it ain't broke.. The saw looks good so far. Curious to see how it works out for you. A perfect cut is a utopia with a chainsaw, but on a harder wood and with an angle closer to a rip cut it can get pretty good. This seems more than adequate for what you want from it.
Hi Johannes: the 2x is red oak - I put it up green and 'pre-stressed' it so to hold the shelves it supports as level. - Yeah, it looks funky... a conversation piece when people visit the shop for sure!
Nice video, thanks. For those new at handling chainsaws, be prepared for an additional investment of about $200 in extra chains, and sharpening equipment. Additionally, learning what to use, and how to sharpen is imperative. Although the 15 AMPs of power equates to approximately 2.4 horsepower, a dull or improperly sharpened chain will produce a lot of heat, and wear and tear on the motor, and frustration for the operator. an improperly sharpened chain or improper setting or uneven (inconsistent) depth gauge height can cause the saw to cut crooked, bind in the kerf if it curves into the cutting guide fence and strain the motor, or wander away from the fence. The guide bar also needs attention periodically to make sure the rails are at equal height (90° to the side of the guide bar), and the groove where the chain rides must be properly gaped (If it's too wide, the chain will flop to one side or the other, causing it to cut crooked). Nice machine, best of success, it looks solid to me.
Hi Thomas You are right for sure about the maintenance of the bar and sharpness of the chain. I did purchase another chain when I bought this saw. In the shop and sawmill, we have 8 electric and gas chainsaws and a chainsaw chain sharpener. Good maintenance and a properly sharpened chain is key to success. Thank you
Update: I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence. The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut. Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning. I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC. With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
Hi Rich! Thanks for the video! Well pronounced my name, it is a difficult Dutch word haha :). Looks like a great tool, not too much chip out for the softer woods as well. Quite a fast cut and good design and probable worth its cost! Glad to be part of the discussion and so great that you purchased it so quickly. Would of course be cool to see how it compares to the Mafell but I am looking into a converter to 110 volts if I can possibly can get the Skillsaw. I think that mafell had a special designed chain against chipout and probably has some better features but that is the least they could do for the extra bucks. Really look forward to your insight in the future with this saw. Thank you for the effort and hopefully it fits in your workflow! Kind regards, Tom
Hi Tom: I'm using the saw carpentry chain saw several times per day. The saw is relatively light in weight and well balanced. The only thing I've noticed is that the saw pushes a little hard once the riving knife enters into the wood. All in all, I'm already seeing a big time savings compared to the 4 cuts with the Makita 10-1/4".
Hi Tom:
I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence.
The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered by backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut.
Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning.
I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC.
With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
@@theMainetimberframer hi Rich, thank you very much for the updates! Seems like the saw is worh having in the shop and is acting like a solid work horse. It is much faster i then rotating for a circ saw i think so worth investing on it! Does the chain dull quickly? Glad it gives square cuts that well. Thanks again and all the best wishes for the holiday season! Kind regards, Tom
Chevron should bring the Skilsaw professional tools to the European Market!
Maffel!
I bought this saw today and used it to cut 8"x12" douglas fir and it had a really hard time! Have you experienced this? I tried toe in and toe out, really bogged down and cut clogged up with sawdust pretty bad
I found with deep timber cuts the chips will load up between the chainsaw and the riving knife. Backing out slightly releases the chips and then I can continue to cut.
I have not operated the saw with a vacuum system…. Yet.
I would have loved to have one ! Do you know if this chain saw is available for European electrical standards please ?
Hi Gwadaflat
I think the chain SPT55 is only available in US spec electricity.
Mafell
Hi Gwadaflat
I do not know if they are available in the European electrical standard - maybe you can use a US version with a power converter?!
@@theMainetimberframer mafell are better
Skill is doing some good work on their tool line up. Nice cut and everything. Curious how you lay out for that end cut? or don't, maybe just a tick or is there a full cut line where you line up the jig plate? You've probably covered this in the past. I'm all about cutting steps in the process, I could see once this system is set in place and use you can move through timber efficiently. What's this saw cost? similar to the 16" circ saw? I could look it up, sorry being lazy. I had a kit years ago that put a bar on the skill worm saw but didn't like it.
Hi Timberdoodles:
Yes, I think Skil is doing some good work - I sold my Makita 16-5/16” after using and buying the Skil 16-5/16” - it has a bigger saw table and more stable for sure.
For the offset:
I strike a line perpendicular to the end, line up the off set piece on the line, then touch off the fence and clamp. Remove the off set and cut using the fence.
The cost of the saw is $699 - cheap compared to Mafell!
The chain has a tooth on every link for better cutting finish.
Frankly, my initial assessment is that the spt55 should have more power.
I bought an extra chain for it.
A quick note: fill the oil slowly as there is a filter in the filler tank. And yes I poured oil all over the saw when filling.
I thinking sawing without the fence would not give the desired end cut result…. I need a quicker fence set up. I have a couple ideas for that…
It is for sure quicker than cutting 4 times with the Makita 10-1/4.
@@theMainetimberframer Good input. Nice system. I don't cut any drops with four cuts, free handing with pencil lines with my chainsaw, gas or electric, depends on which is handy and sharp. but I like this set up.
Hi Timberdoodles: After some more cutting - I think the saw has enough power, what I noted is that when the riving knife enters the cut, the saw pushes a little harder. The riving knife has a taper on both front sides to help the entry of the the riving knife into the cut...I'm going to add some dry lube to the riving knife to see whether it helps. Overall, this saw is a time saver for initial end cuts for sure!
@@theMainetimberframer Do you dare remove the knife?
I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence.
The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered by backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut.
Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning.
I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC.
With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
That's a hard working 2x4 you have there in your roof 🙃 If it ain't broke..
The saw looks good so far. Curious to see how it works out for you. A perfect cut is a utopia with a chainsaw, but on a harder wood and with an angle closer to a rip cut it can get pretty good. This seems more than adequate for what you want from it.
Hi Johannes:
the 2x is red oak - I put it up green and 'pre-stressed' it so to hold the shelves it supports as level. - Yeah, it looks funky... a conversation piece when people visit the shop for sure!
Nice video, thanks. For those new at handling chainsaws, be prepared for an additional investment of about $200 in extra chains, and sharpening equipment. Additionally, learning what to use, and how to sharpen is imperative. Although the 15 AMPs of power equates to approximately 2.4 horsepower, a dull or improperly sharpened chain will produce a lot of heat, and wear and tear on the motor, and frustration for the operator. an improperly sharpened chain or improper setting or uneven (inconsistent) depth gauge height can cause the saw to cut crooked, bind in the kerf if it curves into the cutting guide fence and strain the motor, or wander away from the fence. The guide bar also needs attention periodically to make sure the rails are at equal height (90° to the side of the guide bar), and the groove where the chain rides must be properly gaped (If it's too wide, the chain will flop to one side or the other, causing it to cut crooked). Nice machine, best of success, it looks solid to me.
Hi Thomas
You are right for sure about the maintenance of the bar and sharpness of the chain. I did purchase another chain when I bought this saw.
In the shop and sawmill, we have 8 electric and gas chainsaws and a chainsaw chain sharpener.
Good maintenance and a properly sharpened chain is key to success.
Thank you
Update:
I’m using the saw daily. I’m cutting using a fence.
The only issue I’m encountering is that when the saw is fully engaged and the riving knife is engaged, the space between the blade and the riving fills with chips slowing and even stopping the forward motion. I’ve countered backing the saw, allowing the chips to fall out, then continue the cut.
Not a big deal but worthy of mentioning.
I’m cutting 8”x8” eastern white pine at 30% MC.
With the fence, the cut is square and plumb.
GREAT! Now my idea of the affordable Prazi attachment have gone up in Skillsaw smoke. I'm going to have to stop watching you, or win a damn lottery.
Hi Clayton
I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the skilsaw. Just about eliminates the need for the 16-5/6” circular saw!