Nice to see the thought processes attached to making the jigs and any necessary modifications. Once tuned in everything goes better. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Jim
That chisel. It is a thing of beauty, almost ridiculous in size but oh so useful for the heavy duty stuff. Great production process, very educational and lovely work really.
Great video! Really enjoyed how well you explained everything. I would enjoy a quick recap at the beginning, with the drawing of the final product, just so I remember how far you've come!
2:51 that's one sharp shovel..😁 Mafell do a portable band saw which is ideal for this kind of joinery, especially if you need to batch out a lot of parts, best bit is you don't no need to flip the beams as much-saves the back some abuse. Only issue is the price, €5k exVat for ours IIRC.
I would have left more of that beautiful wood grain possibly cutting off the other end unless the other end looked even better. I think that would look pretty on top with contrasting fancy hardwood dowel peg thing. I’m taking an online course at my slow pace so I’m new to this. At my age a combination of hand tools and a Modern Makita 5402, 7104 mortiser, planer and a track saw, fine tuning with my Japanese chisels and Slick might be the only way for me keep working out my dream home. I might even make a scale model. You know start off small literally, then sneak up on small tool shed, garden shed, bandsaw mill, barn, greenhouse, garage, woodshop, studio permaculture homestead. If cutting out that part is better please educate me. I could use those pieces for my saw horse plan from SI. Thanks for posting your wisdom. I feel like a sponge at 64. At least I’ve learned enough to trust others than waste what valuable time I have left reinventing the wheel do to speak.
Hi Oliver - Great video - so nice to see you back posting more great content. Love the new blog style! That's a cool trick with the Metal track and the HK Saw - will the track also work with a TS55? Where did you get the track from ? Can you share a link please - cheers Simmo
The slick is nice for paring the tenons but I bet a Farier's rasp would be easier....I find a Farier's rasp my go to these day for large rough work because it leaves a nice finish
Personally i would a bit more play then 2 mm since your grean oak is going to shrink more and if you drawbore the tenons the strength will be there, it is not fine joinery and you dont want to refine every mortice in the air on site.
Greetings from New Zealand. I love watching you mess with all things oak. I wonder what size the oak tree was. Am envious of the variety of timber species to choose from we don"t have in NZ.
thanks i look after them 👍 I also try to keep them in warranty as they fetch mega money second hand and buy the offers when they pop up, rather than ending up with worn out tools at a dead loss
Nice jig. Have you had any issues with dimensional variation in your beams? Having just had to deal with a couple beams I milled last year that have moved a lot, my joints all just needed to be centered so I used the square rule method/pockets but what a pain as everything was out of square and I didn't have enough meat left to remill them... Thinking I'd like something like your jig for my 16" skill saw but it would be great if it could adjust in size.
I'm new to timber framing, but i live in the PNW, USA (the land of massive doug fir, larch, spruce, etc) and I bought a sawmill a few years back, so im getting ready to start building with some of the materials ive been stacking away for the past few years. I have a few questions - what method are you using for squaring your joints? Are your timbers a joined/planed square? Also, id be extremely reluctant to have that heart rot/defect on a tennon. Do you have a protocol when it comes to that? Like what percentage of the tennon can be rotten before you consider using a different post?
You should avoid 'chopping' at the wood with your slick. A larger 2" timber frame chisel and gentler pushing shaving with the slick (like at 10 minutes) will yield better results and avoid tear-out. Anyways, beautiful beam and great video!
Hey Oliver. Wondering if the Festool Sword Saw would be a good tool to use for all these timber cuts? Also, several versions by other manufacturers could be considered. Are they not suitable for this particular job?
2mm seems unacceptably loose for that joint, is it not? Why both using a jig that produces a poorly fitted joint, especially considering the fact that you had to make a second deeper cut at the shoulder lines anyway?
No, have to be really careful on tolerances with green timber, 2mm is tight, or you will really struggle to get it assembled( unless you assemble straight away
@BradshawJoinery not sure what you mean 🤔 plz explain, I'm doing an oak frame at the moment and most of the oak is bent , twisted and a pain in the arse 8inch beams
More for the tenon side than the shoulders, will give you a traight flat tenon to work with rather than cutting off and trying to mark a out of shape beam. Shoulders will need scribing if it's really character whatever. I bet these joints will need kerfing when final fitting a little
This is how an untrained beginner frames. You need to learn to use saws free hand and follow the lines. Tilt the saw slightly so it's not sitting flat on the wood if the line is square. Feels sketchy at first but you'll get used to it
Oak framing isn't my trade, have a look at the joinery ones, i'm confident to challenge you on that statement on joinery, but i stand by the tenon and shoulder jig being a great time worthy addition to a framing project. Id be happy to come and feature some framing of yours on the channel to document it if you were interested
@BradshawJoinery why are you doing it then if it isnt your trade?? If you want to learn oak framing join the carpenters fellowship, sign up to the oak framing specific nvq in structural post and beam timber framing- or if you dont want to do a proper qualification at least get on a couple of week course at the weald and downland museum or with alan Ritchie at hewn wood, at the very least read a couple of books and stop just having a go gambling clients money! I have had to dismantle and scrap oak frames barely 15 year old because they were done by a joiner having a go who ballsed up the joint details. If you join the CF, you'll get a book of the first 10 years of the mortise and tenon magazine. The majority of what's taught on the structural post and beam nvq will be in those pages.
😮😮 2 Sachen. Zimmermannsböcke wackeln nicht! Und eine handbandsäge ist sehr dienlich bei solchen Arbeiten. Und nicht diese festspielzeugsäge für teuer Geld.
i have to say the tenon jig was quicker than setting out and cutting that way. Its like using a hinge jig vs hand setting out. Marginally quicker for one, Times quicker and more accurate for several.
Brilliant. Old fashioned techniques with modern machinery in perfect harmony. 🌞
Thank you for solidifying the ideas I had flying around in my head!
Nice to see the thought processes attached to making the jigs and any necessary modifications. Once tuned in everything goes better. Keep up the good work. Cheers. Jim
That chisel. It is a thing of beauty, almost ridiculous in size but oh so useful for the heavy duty stuff.
Great production process, very educational and lovely work really.
Loving the daily uploads ! 👏🏼.
Great video! Really enjoyed how well you explained everything. I would enjoy a quick recap at the beginning, with the drawing of the final product, just so I remember how far you've come!
“That’s not a chisel, this is a chisel”. 😂😂
That's NOT a chisel, that's a slick. And it sure is slick. Chisels are designed to be hit with a hammer, slicks are not.
@@trexmcnamara this. This guy knows his shit. Although, I'd say a mallet, rather than a hammer.
Using the scrap wood with the mortiser to adjust it is genius. I’m going to be stealing that idea.
Really enjoying the daily blog/vlog videos. Keep 'em coming!
Love the chisel :-)
Wonderful thinker you are ... really enjoy your series !
Thanks Matey
Superb job as always
Thank you!
That chisel makes me smile, like your in the land of the giants.
I can’t get over the size of that chisel 😂
That’s what she said.
2:51 that's one sharp shovel..😁 Mafell do a portable band saw which is ideal for this kind of joinery, especially if you need to batch out a lot of parts, best bit is you don't no need to flip the beams as much-saves the back some abuse. Only issue is the price, €5k exVat for ours IIRC.
Great slick, not something you use everyday, but it sure came in handy this day. :)
Fab build !!! Looks awesome
I would have left more of that beautiful wood grain possibly cutting off the other end unless the other end looked even better. I think that would look pretty on top with contrasting fancy hardwood dowel peg thing. I’m taking an online course at my slow pace so I’m new to this. At my age a combination of hand tools and a Modern Makita 5402, 7104 mortiser, planer and a track saw, fine tuning with my Japanese chisels and Slick might be the only way for me keep working out my dream home. I might even make a scale model. You know start off small literally, then sneak up on small tool shed, garden shed, bandsaw mill, barn, greenhouse, garage, woodshop, studio permaculture homestead. If cutting out that part is better please educate me. I could use those pieces for my saw horse plan from SI. Thanks for posting your wisdom. I feel like a sponge at 64. At least I’ve learned enough to trust others than waste what valuable time I have left reinventing the wheel do to speak.
Beyond Excellent.
Please may I put in a request for some footage of you sharpening that humongous Lilliputt chisel? Mega vids. Cheers Ollie 👍
Hi Oliver - Great video - so nice to see you back posting more great content. Love the new blog style! That's a cool trick with the Metal track and the HK Saw - will the track also work with a TS55? Where did you get the track from ? Can you share a link please - cheers Simmo
Loving the trimber framing activities - you could run courses . . .
I guess your brother is now helping with the filming?
Plenty of timber framing courses with framers who acrually know what they are doing
The slick is nice for paring the tenons but I bet a Farier's rasp would be easier....I find a Farier's rasp my go to these day for large rough work because it leaves a nice finish
Amazing job!!
Great stuff , nice to see a plan coming together!
Personally i would a bit more play then 2 mm since your grean oak is going to shrink more and if you drawbore the tenons the strength will be there, it is not fine joinery and you dont want to refine every mortice in the air on site.
Shrink and quite possibly twist a bit.
Greetings from New Zealand. I love watching you mess with all things oak. I wonder what size the oak tree was. Am envious of the variety of timber species to choose from we don"t have in NZ.
Agree with raydriver....cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
I thought I was the one, who told timber balancing precariously to stay!😂
can you recommend chisels? What to look for? who to purchase from?
Tools look brand new.
thanks i look after them 👍 I also try to keep them in warranty as they fetch mega money second hand and buy the offers when they pop up, rather than ending up with worn out tools at a dead loss
I can see you wearing a t-shirt with a picture of Pumbaa from the lion king saying "they call me mister jig!"
Now that's a chisel
How do you keep that large blade sharp
Thank you
Think you need a bigger chisel
That's what she said.
It’s called a ‘slick’
That's a Crocodile Dundee moment.......
That Ain't a Chisel.......
THIS IS A CHISEL!
I've got a 110v Bosch Sabre saw and rarely use it, its brutal.
can you explain the size of the joint you chose? Why that size? does it depend on what size timber you are using?
I'm here like everyone else to comment on the chisel 😅 couldn't believe my eyes at 1st, it's comically big 😄
That's what she said.
My OCD was shouting at you to put a straight edge across the shoulders of the post and the brace!
Where did You get that slick from? doe not look like a vintage one.
very nice
I’m loving these tenoning jigs for your HK. I wonder if I can find those steel bars in the states?
Thanks bud, its just 5/6" x 1/4" Alloy Bar that i drilled and countersunk, youll be able to get some over there for sure
Nice jig. Have you had any issues with dimensional variation in your beams? Having just had to deal with a couple beams I milled last year that have moved a lot, my joints all just needed to be centered so I used the square rule method/pockets but what a pain as everything was out of square and I didn't have enough meat left to remill them... Thinking I'd like something like your jig for my 16" skill saw but it would be great if it could adjust in size.
fucking hell love the crocodile dundee chisel man!!
I'm new to timber framing, but i live in the PNW, USA (the land of massive doug fir, larch, spruce, etc) and I bought a sawmill a few years back, so im getting ready to start building with some of the materials ive been stacking away for the past few years. I have a few questions - what method are you using for squaring your joints? Are your timbers a joined/planed square? Also, id be extremely reluctant to have that heart rot/defect on a tennon. Do you have a protocol when it comes to that? Like what percentage of the tennon can be rotten before you consider using a different post?
Would the veritas honing jig be suffice for that chisel or would i have to use something else. How big is your sharpening station? 😅😅
Nice. I think with a jig you could rout the shoulders off the tenons quicker than the multiple saw passes and chiselling.
You should avoid 'chopping' at the wood with your slick. A larger 2" timber frame chisel and gentler pushing shaving with the slick (like at 10 minutes) will yield better results and avoid tear-out.
Anyways, beautiful beam and great video!
If Crocodile Dundee did woodwork.... "That's not a chisel..."
Enjoyed the video. But please take the few minutes needed to build a couple of better horses!😂The big slick really had me hooked, where can I buy one?
Hey Oliver. Wondering if the Festool Sword Saw would be a good tool to use for all these timber cuts? Also, several versions by other manufacturers could be considered. Are they not suitable for this particular job?
I imagine you're getting great enjoyment from all that but how did you ever price the job?
Remember, you only get one pair of eyes.
Nice eye protection. At least you’ll be able to hear you guide dog.
Will you use a peg marker which offsets the hole in the tenant which tightens it up when knocked home (I have no idea what the marker is called!)
That process is called draw-boring. Not sure what tool you're talking about, but I'd love to know about it.
As you know , the cut on the end is easier to cut after the tenon
Looks Great...... Looks 3mm out from my point lmao Can't wait to see it up
Need to get some braces on those trestles, much more fun using a slick or a plane on large timbers with trestles that don't wobble
Чисто изготовил👍
George 🤣🤣🤣🤣
2mm seems unacceptably loose for that joint, is it not? Why both using a jig that produces a poorly fitted joint, especially considering the fact that you had to make a second deeper cut at the shoulder lines anyway?
No, have to be really careful on tolerances with green timber, 2mm is tight, or you will really struggle to get it assembled( unless you assemble straight away
That chisel is ridiculous!
Don't see many farmers in Snickers.............
Love your video :) i do think your saw horses need some X-braces, take out some shake.
Yeah they do! To be fair they are 10 years old and have sat outside their whole life 😂 I may add some 👍😆
💪
for smile on end
Sack off those jigs and free hand it like a proper framer.
Nothing screams amateur like tenon cutting jigs, camera and UA-cam channel 😂
I have skill for wood working,wood carving welding.... etc Are you hiring helper? 😊😊😊
Great if all your timbers are planned and square
Better if they aren't, gives a straight edge for all the cuts! 👍
@BradshawJoinery not sure what you mean 🤔 plz explain, I'm doing an oak frame at the moment and most of the oak is bent , twisted and a pain in the arse 8inch beams
More for the tenon side than the shoulders, will give you a traight flat tenon to work with rather than cutting off and trying to mark a out of shape beam. Shoulders will need scribing if it's really character whatever. I bet these joints will need kerfing when final fitting a little
This is how an untrained beginner frames. You need to learn to use saws free hand and follow the lines. Tilt the saw slightly so it's not sitting flat on the wood if the line is square. Feels sketchy at first but you'll get used to it
All the gear and no idea!
Oak framing isn't my trade, have a look at the joinery ones, i'm confident to challenge you on that statement on joinery, but i stand by the tenon and shoulder jig being a great time worthy addition to a framing project. Id be happy to come and feature some framing of yours on the channel to document it if you were interested
@BradshawJoinery why are you doing it then if it isnt your trade?? If you want to learn oak framing join the carpenters fellowship, sign up to the oak framing specific nvq in structural post and beam timber framing- or if you dont want to do a proper qualification at least get on a couple of week course at the weald and downland museum or with alan Ritchie at hewn wood, at the very least read a couple of books and stop just having a go gambling clients money! I have had to dismantle and scrap oak frames barely 15 year old because they were done by a joiner having a go who ballsed up the joint details. If you join the CF, you'll get a book of the first 10 years of the mortise and tenon magazine. The majority of what's taught on the structural post and beam nvq will be in those pages.
😂😂😂😂
😮😮 2 Sachen. Zimmermannsböcke wackeln nicht! Und eine handbandsäge ist sehr dienlich bei solchen Arbeiten. Und nicht diese festspielzeugsäge für teuer Geld.
eye protection |||||||||||
just lay it out properly LOL
a hand saw works wonders too! LOL
i have to say the tenon jig was quicker than setting out and cutting that way. Its like using a hinge jig vs hand setting out. Marginally quicker for one, Times quicker and more accurate for several.
Dłubiesz to drewno jak kornik
🫡