Diesel Roller Compactor First Start in 30 years!! Can it be saved??
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2022
- Part One: • Diesel Powered Roller ...
Clearing For Shop: • Building my DREAM WORK...
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I remember when I could do all of this in the field, but now I'm lucky to get on my wheelchair from the sofa due to being 68 and living with Multiple sclerosis that robbed me of any leg use now for 15 years . Your channel brings a lot of memories & puts a smile on my face of when things were better. Never take walking for granted. I'm a fan, Bob.
Its nice to look back on good memories, best of luck to you.
Bob, thanks for giving us that can walk something to be grateful for!
Yes, we humans do forget and take a lot for granted!
While the first 45 years I ran, I’m sitting out the rest too with MS, unless I lose the ability to transfer. 63 and blessed that I still drive, work part time and get around a bit.
I enjoy watching Matt in his youth and skill working out in the cold. Hope he gets his shop up soon.
Google, carnivore diet and Multiple sclerosis
God bless you
The challenge of getting old engines running after they’ve sat for so long is so satisfyingly fun. Not always wallet friendly but worth it when your hard work and persistence pays off.
"Not always wallet friendly"
Well...... compared to the alternative...... yes it is lmao
It's even more wallet friendly when you watch someone else do it
@@cg8469 You’re not wrong 😂
If anyone deserves a dry, warm/cold workshop with a ceiling hoist, it's you. You work through some tough crap to put out some awesome content.
i agree
And all his jobs seem to get bigger, weirder and harder. That makes the channel worth watching.
´MäuceLätte ville kämm vv
I was an Heavy Equipment Mechanic/Operator myself for well over 30 yrs.
Here something you're going to like, instead of using ether, soca rag and Diesel and put it over your intake it'll be the fastest startup you've ever seen on a diesel engine.
The joy you get when starting an old piece of equipment is so heart warming
I get joy feeling I finally did something right!
There are many people that wouldn't give this thing time of day.. except for a scrap collector
It is always a great feeling !!!
The joy we get ain't bad either. 😉 😁 Keep 'em coming Matt.
yes
Old diesels first starting up never gets old.......good job Matt!
Im an electrical engineer. My tip is not to tin the tips of your cables as solder is a poor conductor and oxidize very quickly and encourage breaks near your connector when fibrating, it matters at high currents. Usually copper to copper contact is the best. But if you are going to tin thick wires like that its best to use a solder bath, you can use a tin you heat up with solder inside until it is a liquid bath. then put some flux on the cable you want to tin and dip it in the molten solder. But first prize is a proper crimping tool with the correct size lugs and go copper on copper.
I personally also use some copper paste on the contacts
I solder a lot of smaller wires for RC projects. I like to lay copper on copper overlapping end to end twist them together, then solder with heat shrink. It usually holds pretty well.
DAMN man, that was such a cool repair up until the end! I hope they give you a break because I would like to see more videos on this repair.
You’re showing many reasons on why that bigger excavator was worth buying, seems like a very handy machine.
Hi Matt. Personally, taking into the account the amount of hours this unit might work for the rest of its life, I would keep the bearings as is, just grease them properly,
Seconded. Especially if you need it up and running for prepping the shop land, and you can swing the shaft repair, I’d just go bare minimum for it to do it’s job.
As for engine fixes, that diesel needs no power to run once started (save the electric fuel pump - if you don’t replace the mechanical lift pump - but that massive battery would run that temp pump for a loooong time), so I’d just leave the alternator for another time, and charge the battery manually when needed.
It sucks not being able to fix something the right way, but sometimes you gotta take a look at the reality of the situation and act accordingly. Don’t let perfect be the enemy of good enough 🙂
@@dphoenix1 Agree, it isn't going to be forever, just a couple (maybe) of uses. grease it, weld the shaft as true as you can, slap it back together.
VW Rabbit glow plugs would probably work (junk yard?)if you can find them. Glad that third cylinder found some compression. Before oil change, but after Glow plug removal, might shoot some SeaFoam in each cyl and let it sit for a few. Might soften the ring grove crud. Cleaning with compressed air is OK, IF the valves are closed.
totally agree. that thing turns so slow that I don't think it would make any difference. clean em, grease em, and put it back together. maybe add a grease fitting if possible to keep them lubed.
In the army I drove a M-578 recovery vehicle that had bad bearing in the rear tension wheel. thing would pop like crazy but would go.
That shaft looks like a job for Curtis at Cutting Edge Engineering!! Nice work Matt! Thank you for sharing!
I was said the same thing when I saw the shaft broken.
Love that channel!
Same thought exactly lol!
Keith Fenner or Abom would be a lot cheaper to ship to than Curtis
I was surprised to see it actually cleaned up after a fair amount of fuel ,runs nice.
It will start much easer when the glow plugs are working 😎👍🇦🇺
Those type of GlowPlugs are wired through a low-value resistor. (less than 1 Ohm) The resistor drops the 12v down to ~ 9.5v. This resistor often takes the form of a "GlowPlug indicator" which is simply a short coil of nichrome wire which gets red-hot so you can see it working. (of-course, the hotter the indicator gets, the lower the voltage to the GPs.... self-regulating)
Exactly
Yeah just came here to see if someone had commented this and we are good
The resistor's purpose is to limit the amount of current that can flow through the glow plugs, the value if the resistor can be calculated using Ohm's Law. Without having the resistor in the circuit the heating element in the glow plugs will quickly burn out. Perhaps use a multimeter to check the old glow plugs for continuity.
Also he talked about these glow plugs being in series, but the way they were mounted, they would be in parallel, giving the full voltage to each plug, instead of splitting it 3 ways, if they were in series.
did not know that that's a neat and simple setup i love it!
My deceased brother-in-law was a heavy equipment mechanic. I would have loved to watch your video's with him. God bless you and your family.
31:52 Yes, you can series connect two 12V light bulbs on 24V, no problem, but... Your connection of the three glow plugs are in parallel, NOT series so each is seeing full battery voltage. Unless you put a load resistor in line with the glow plugs, you are going to burn them out rather quickly.
If they were in series, then an in-line resistor would be in the wiring and he probably would have seen that.
Good morning Matt,
We know you are a super busy man. But we have come to rely on your weekly videos. I think I speak for all your subs. When I ask you to PLEASE post a new one,
Thank you.
Hats off to the excavator! It's a multipurpose tool. It's an excavator, a hoist, a puller... it does it all!
*Honey Bear* - It's a Swiss Army-vator
Also a fumigator for the property !
I was not aware that Kobelco sold bearing-pullers - LOL
Everythig's a hammer - besides the chisel: that's screwdriver ....
Remember. the right tool for the right job.
Hi Matt. I.Rooting for you on this one. I've seen you resurrect a lot of dead and dying machinery and hope this turns out to be another success. I think this video should have had a health warning, I almost passed out while holding my breath among that exhaust smoke. Looking forward to seeing the new shop
I can't help it but shake hands with danger is playing in the back of my head during a lot of the tear down at the end.
It's like your Dr. Frankenstein, bringing something long dead back to life
Something satisfying about standing in a cloud of smoke by a racing engine and spraying starting fluid. Gotta love it! Love your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Soldering that cable was the wrong thing to do. All that happens is the solder moves down the core making the cable stiff and now prone to the wires cracking under vibration. The solder will also deform over time, the alloy structure will then crumble and the connection will work loose. This is also why you don't 'crimp and solder' either. The best solution would have been to crimp a connector on the end (which gives you a perfect gas tight cold weld joint in theory) and then bolt the eyelet down. The next best (maybe) solution would be to push dielectric grease down into the cable core and then clamp it down, or just get a better battery clamp.
Anyone who says different is still listening to what his Grandad did on WWI submarines, or has never worked in industry where we have quality standards and calibration records for miles over every single detail of this cable termination process.
But good job on using some kind of crimp tool for the other connectors, that's better than 99.999% of other UA-camrs.
You can actually get solder type battery cables, but they just suck unless you can somehow clamp down the cable
Matt, if you ever get rich buy a tool press it'll help you put all those bearings back into where you have to put them on on those axle and you know they're not cheap but good luck 👍👍👍👍
Matt, first off well done on getting the motor running. I know the shaft and bearing is a different story so I hope everything falls into place there. I admire your determination and can’t wait for the dream workshop build to begin. Good luck at the machine shop
Most people would just have given up when they saw the broken shaft. Hope the repair cost will be reasonable. It would be a shame to have put all this time and money into it just to fall on the last hurdle.
It is a pleasure to watch you solve "simple" problems that do actually have a solution when we are surrounded by some that are so big they are hard to even comprehend. Thanks for letting us tag along on your journey.
You have so much good will out there Matt. I know it's not a route you want to go down but I'd happily donate money just to see that roller fixed. It would be one less piece of equipment in the scrapyard. I can't be the only one who thinks that. I'd love to see it functioning. Cheers
I always wondered how those vibrating compactors worked. It much simpler that I imagined. Thanks for the post.
I'd recommend putting a fuse in series with the hot lead to the key switch to protect your wiring. Hopefully you can get her back together. Keep up the great work!
Hey Matt! My thinking on the roller bearings is if the cages aren't damaged then the rollers will work fine. The pitting is from sitting not skidding. Put them back in and use a moly grease. They are load bearing and low speed they should be just fine.
Reuse bearings. The slow speed shouldn't be an issue.
For the shaft, doubt it needs to be truly straight. A welder that bevels each end and gets good penetration followed by lathe to smooth out weld.
@@wyattgardner3552 I was thinking that, but also center drilling, boring, and putting a hard pin of appropriate size ... kingpin from an old Freightliner, for example ... in the repair area, to reduce the chance of another shear breaking in the same spot. It would likely do one of two things: Fail right away, or, outlast the rest of the machine. If it comes to "damned if you do, damned if you don't" and I have the means to "do," I'd try it.
I've seen much sketchier repairs work, much to my surprise.
@@infoanorexic Can’t tell until the stub gets pushed out, but if the shaft is symmetrical you can flip it end for end so the repair side isn’t getting the torque from the engine. Weld repair should be plenty strong just to be a bearing journal.
Are they that slow spinning?
The shaft will spin at the rpm of the engine (around 2500rpm is my guess) since it looks like a 1:1 ratio between engine and shaft.
good info sir. thank you.
As soon as you said you had a puller for that bearing but didn't have the right tool for it, I was like, "Dude, you have the excavator right there".
Oh man! you really worked very hard, seeing part 1 & 2 my personal observation ( with no hard feelings) sometimes shortcuts takes much more time. in whole episodes finding one defect at a time after giving it a start has taken more time and efforts. make a checklist so you don't miss out anything.
good luck👌👍
That was cool to watch the fast forward as the exhaust stopped smoking. She was cleaning her self as it warmed up.
good to hear the old engine up and running. I was cheering when it finally caught and kept going
If costs get too high on the repair it may still be useful as a static roller. seal up the end flanges and fill it with water for weight. And you will have a massive pair of steel balls for the next project that requires them. or some amusing shop art or vehicle decoration lol. Would love to see the old roller going again but with all the repair and parts needed at today's prices I'm wondering if it will be prohibitively expensive.
Persistence may be one of your greatest attributes and as we've seen in other videos it has paid off many times. It would be interesting to hear the total cost to repair this vs what you typically see these units go for in usable condition.
Just let all your collection of compactors run free on the pad. I’m sure it would be compacted in no time.
Great video watched it twice. Be a handy machine if not going to cost to much to fix
The drum bearings are called Self Aligning bearings Matt.
Matt's work ethic is impressive. Never say die...
Those are SWEET little engines...They work quite nicely on a 6" water pump, (at the landfill) the little engine saw ZERO maintenance as evidenced by the rebuild paint on oil filter. SOOO I asked the boss if it could get service with some other equipt. Did my heart good ...SAY, knew an old man with VWs & MBs who would use NOTHING but WD40 as start aid...
Just a quick tip from myself, an electrical engineer from Austria: NEVER put solder onto stranded wire if you are not going to solder it! 1st, solder is much more malleable than copper, so the whole screw terminal can loosen up over time and cause arc-outs, and 2nd, since now there is 2 metals involved, a lot more corrosion will happen... What you can do tho is firmly pre-crimp the stranded wire to get the strands denser together, so screwing them down should not be that big of a hassle :)
Good video Matt. IMO you do not need to have that machine fixed for a 30 year lifecycle. At this point it time it only needs to be good enough to get you through the next project or 2. The way that shaft looks broken it seems like it was dropped to have it shear off like that. I would weld the shaft back as concentric as possible, re-grease the bearings and slap it back together and see what happens. It would be a nice piece of equipment even if you only get it running enough to serve your immediate purpose. Good Luck...
Dope
Good Point!! There is no need for perfect concentricity... After all, it is SUPPOSED to vibrate. However: the shoulders and diameters do need to be accurate. No matter, a lathe can handle that kind of stuff.
I agree, just clean all the rust you can off of bearings, clean with diesel, regrease it, repair shaft the cheapest way you can
@@brucepeebles4939 I've fixed several smaller shafts with an arc welder, grinder, and skate wheels mounted on a wooden frame as a roller. Then I bought a cheap old lathe... Mine is only 48in between centers, which is enough for anything I've worked on.
Agreed. If your old employer wants too much to machine it then a "farmer fix" would be acceptable. Find centers of broken shafts, drill out for dowels or 1" all-thread, V out gap, fillet weld. Probably won't even matter if shaft is straight
I wouldn’t worry to much about the bearings Matt - for the work your gonna do a clean and repack should be fine - my heart sank when I saw that shaft and I saw your mood change as well- fingers crossed the fix isn’t to expensive - as for the glow plugs- alternator ect they can wait it’ll run just fine to get your pad packed down even if you do have to charge the batteries every now and then- all that aside that motor sure sounded sweet when she fired up 👍all the best mate from Tasmania
You are a brave man getting into that kind of repair! Kudos to you, mate.
Thumbs up on the soldering of the battery cable wiring to encapsulate the wire before making the connections. I have 40 years in the field. Never even consider it. I'll be doing that from now on.
One can learn from. Thank you, Sir.
Great video Matt, we use to repair old machines like that. Drill and tap the shaft, screw in a threaded stud to reinforce it. V it out real good for deep penatration, and weld it together with 7018 rod. Good luck !
Every time I watch one of your videos I find myself wanting to be there helping you. It is so interesting learning how the different machines function. I love your work ethic and your approach to problems.
I retired last year, not much set aside. But if I lived close, I would love to just be a 2nd set of hands to help, always loved tinkering, but not to the level Matt does. I wait anxiously each week for the next segment, this one was pretty long as well :)
Reminds me of Jerry Reed singing "She got the gold mine, I got the shaft!" Well, we learned something but sometimes learning is kinda tough. Lol
Don't ask me why but after a long day at work nothing beats coming home and and having a smoke while watching you get old machines working again.
Watching these videos, reminds me of my father in law. He was a logger and was always working on his skidder, maintaining or improving. You are a lot like him, could fix anything and I used to love help him doing it. Thank you.
When you have a box, add some extra cable or a service loop so if you have to cut and replace stuff in the future you have a little bit of extra cable to work with... Should also consider running wires in plastic or metal conduit for protection.
Mat, every alternator need field excitation to work. It can be either internal, nor external. Check your alternator and if you find F or L terminal unhooked, it cannot work. If it has L terminal, that means there is an internal regulator and it just needs an indicator lamp hooked up to 12V. If you find F terminal, you will need external regulator and the lamp.
Earlier in the video if you look closely the wires are cut going to the alternator, that is where you need to Excite the field, matt can look up a wiring diagram and figure it out pretty easily
Plenty of vids on YT to put a Delco 10si on old equipment. Easy as pie, works every time. I've done it several times. Delco Gold 334-2114 $50 on Amazon is what I use.
ua-cam.com/video/QVUL0S704AE/v-deo.html
thank you for that useful info. i appreciate you.
Matt. You be da man. You have the patience of a saint. I guarantee that I would have had that thing loaded up and headed to the scrap yard by now.
Matt I really admire guy's like you that ain't afraid to just jump in and repair something that you've never experienced. 👊🏾😁
That’s the difference between a mechanic and a parts replacer
@@johnwudarcki9315 yeah Matt makes mcguyver look like a hack
@@gertraba4484 MacGyver was only going by the script....
It is very common to have a 9.5v glow plug on a 12v system for a faster glow and a bit less draw on a battery when you need it to start
Wow! After 30 years. So Awesome to see old stuff work again.
You're really a nice down-to-earth guy you always are that's what makes watching your nice
I DEFINITELY want to see the next video on this roller; Hope it's worth while repairing ! Great video Wes !
Wes huh? Yah someone has my watching schedule. This vibrator will tow around and smash the gunge back into table top under floor. Gravel in setting before vibrating down into floor with side concrete beams angled towards center of floor shaped for strong floor beams around sides that go straight down around sides to stop cold from seeping under floor.
Absolutely loved the video. There is no other way I would have been able to see the workings of such a machine. Thanks 👍
Literally I never get so happy to watch somebody else succeed as I do with you Matt. Keep making shit run, and most importantly keep having fun. I’ll always watch.
Remember these motors from my army/airforce days. Our trucks were powered by the V6 V8 & v10 Deutz motors. They'd smoke a bit when cold and would clear up when they warned up. They'd reach operating temp after driving for about 2 hours then they would run exceedingly well. Just as a note cold in South Africa is about - 8 Celsius and we'd go up to about 40 in the summer. These trucks just ran through it all.
Hi Matt!! Your joy at getting this started is contagious! Had me grinning from ear to ear, and SO happy for you!! I truly hope that you can get this machine repaired as cheaply and as quickly as possible. If it's outside of your budget, and probably will be, just rent a roller to get your shop started. I'm pretty sure that is much more important to you than fixing this roller. I will be sol thrilled when you have a nice warm shop to do your magic in, and not have to be out in the cold, wind, rain and snow anymore. Wishing you the best.
One has to take into account the economics of where and how this channel is supported. What finances Matt has to function with, and how much can this machine generate for the business verses lease or rent a replacement. Plus he needs one in less than a week.
Well...he can probably rent one. This thing looks like a money pit, including the money he isn't making while working on it.
For those who say you should just run and get the right tool, heck with 'em. One of the reasons I like watching your channel is that you improvise. Use what you have. Sometimes it doesn't work but often it does. Good old Yankee ingenuity.
I would get the alternator rebuilt, fix the lift pump, clean lube and reuse all bearings, weld the shaft, etc. It will last as long as you need it, after that you can decide if you want to restore it.
Excellent results on the engine. I hope the shaft can be repaired or replaced. Just like you, I hate to see vintage equipment trashed if it can be brought back to life.
The two end balls create the vibration just have to make sure there installed the right way from each other.🤔👍
I’ll tell you what I am starting to get just as excited when you get one of those old engines going as you now good job
Grew up working on farms. Was always amazed at the ability to repair just about anything with common sense and a willingness to do the work. for me its always easy to take it apart but then it sits for a year and i forget how to put it back together.
Matt you are nuts ,that is why I love watching your channel. Getting that engine running was classic and your enthusiasm is over the top. Exactly how I feel when I get something to work that re@lly shouldn’t. I’m looking forward to your next episode on this roller please don’t make us wait too long.
Are you sure that glow plug voltage range wasn't 9 to 15 volts? It's very strange for them to have the lower voltage listed second.
Having looked at the spec for that glow plug online, I think it's more likely 9.5V
@@webra77 I'm not sure that's what the specification shows though. I mean 12 volts / 3 would be 4 volts and if they were meant to run on 6 volts 6 volts / 3 would be 2 neither of which match what was on the plug
@@thecorbies makes sense although that is a strange voltage.
@@webra77 I'm not at all sure you're correct in that assumption.
The way Matt showed them connected - before he disconnected them was definitely in parallel. i.e. 12V (or9.5V) directly to each GP
@@thecorbies Yes you might be right. But all the old tractors I have been tinkering with that have the same glow plugs they where connected in series so I assumed it would be the same way on this motor.
The look on your face when something goes “right”, as little as that seems to happen, is priceless!
SOLDERING TIP... Matt i sure enjoy your videos. I especially like the succeed/fail way you present your projects. Anyway, to the tip. i have seen you do this in a few videos, and it is a common of people that dont solder much (especially welders. no offense) lol. It looks like your using the heat source to melt the solder or a combo of both. the problem with this is that the solder cools to quick with it contacts the wire, the natural thing to do is to apply more heat to where it does and it just snowballs. The key thing here is to let the wire melt the solder and not the heat source.
1) Always use a paste flux and rosin core solder. this does 2 things; it ensures you get the wire completely fluxed, also tells you when the wire is about ready for the solder since flux melts at a temp just below solder. 2)Heat the wire from the back side of so that when you apply the solder it draws into the wire.
3)Do not use a open flame on wire, use a Soldering Iron ( Ya i know the propane torch is your fav thing to use 🙂) They do make soldering tip for them though.
4)After the paste flux melts, apply the solder to the opposite side your heating from. Allow the solder to flow through the wire.
5) Do not over heat the wire. overheating it will cause the solder to not stick
I hope this helps you and your subscribers. Keep the videos coming they are awsome. Cant wait for the weather to break so that we can see your new shop.
The problems just keep coming... My heart goes out to you Matt. Bet getting that engine started seems like a year ago now. Chin up and keep on fighting. 🍀🍀🍀
Thanks Matt, love repair/refurbish videos. Have a great Saturday all.
Your a brave boy going in so deep on an old worn broken machine
I am no mechanic but I like what you do is Ok or wrong it's your dollar but you got my attension 😎👍
you got the engine to run👍after sitting all years, good job ! to bad about the axel
I learn a great deal from your persistence. I used to tackle projects with no experience and there was success but after Traumatic brain injury and rebuilding its great watching others do it as the mess ups are much bigger foe me and easier after your head and processing unit has been reformatted. Thanks this helps approach the projects I do tackle with success not always but it's happening. No longer a tradesman but still finding ways to keep my hands busy!! Keep up the great videos and hard work as it must be a bunch as you are fixing, filming, prepping, ordering, go-foring, editing and holy cow man! Very appreciated but the best vid is still the one with your wife wrenching on the hydraulic cylinder. I roared with laughter!!!
I saw you heating up the manifold... I have good sucess blowing the torch into the intake, while you are cranking- best way to start a cold diesel!
As a retired telephone man ,I was watching a construction crew work ,when I was asked if I would like to work this kindof job ,so I got a bit of experience with heavy equipment ,building culverts, parking lots ,and rebuilding infrastructure for a city in Fla. It was best job for several months ,really enjoyed it.
Matt we love seeing this kind of work! The whole hour flew by! Thank you for the content!
Nice to discover how this thing works, it’s bad that it isn’t running. Hope you make the right decision 👍
You are one of the nicest and most humble guy I have watched on you tube. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us all.
The solder is best, but dielectric grease on the clamp and you'd not lose connection for decades! I'm 68, and I have some real
Old stuff still working great, so I became a believer!
What a lovely sound when it starts up. I love it when starter is barely spinning the engine and it just pops to life barely keeping rpm to stay running
CONTACT 😆.
Glow plugs are pretty cheap usually, I'd change them out since they're so old plus new ones will work with 12v and you won't have to do some weird connection to lower the voltage to them.
considering how this thing was made, I can believe it was loud as hell. Watching you improvise and figure out work arounds in the field is why we watch. Having all the exact tools needed is just not realistic for most of us. Thanks for letting us watch over your shoulder.
It’s nice to see the old stuff coming back into use good luck with the future of your project big respect from the UK
I think I would just clean and pack those bearing they might surprise you about how long they may last. Keep up the work and fantastic videos.
this is my favorite thing to watch on a Saturday morning, thank you Matt for the hour content!
Amazing how you can still see value in something old and seriously broken....🙂🧐
Loving the Spud Wrench. Local 7 Iron Worker out of Massachusetts here. Love the channel Matt
I feel knackered just watching the work that`s gone into that video!I really hope you can get it up and running without getting a phone call from the bank manager!Plus i love your Impact and cordless grinder!Keep up the good work Matt.
Matt gets a like b4 the intro is over
Greetings from New Zealand,Absolutely love what you are doing,You have great patience,and high tolerance levels.Keep up with the good work 👏👏👍👍
My urologist told me my shaft was bent too lol sorry I love everything you do you're an awesome down to earth man that does everything too his ability to support his family ...
As long as your shaft is just bent, it's still fine. It would be worse if it was broken.
Love to watch you working on machines repair 🤟Your face turned exciting within engine cranking up runs great 😀
Thanks!
@@DieselCreek Glowplugs ... test them outside engine. Conect negative to housing, and positive to the top terminal. Afret 15s it should be red hot. It ok to run 15v to them. After they work make shure that voltage comes to them, if aluminium head corode there is no ground there 😃😃😃
@@DieselCreek wire in a gm 10si one wire alt
@@gertraba4484, unless that alternator is frozen up, I wouldn’t mess with it. He’ll only use that roller for a couple hours rolling that building pad, an hour to roll the sub base and an hour to roll the stone once he puts it down. And that’s probably more than what it will take.
@@Hoaxer51 The only thing drawing power is the "temporary" clacker fuelpump anyway. So unless he has to run the starter a lot to get it going it won't be a immediate problem.
A lot to accomplish in such a short time frame Mat...wishing you luck on this one! As for the battery cable ends I use crimped on Ferrules for that.
On Pakistan mechanic videos, they put the shaft on a lathe, turn it down, insert middle section for correct length, then stick weld it. Check all terminals and connections for corrosion on alternator before replacing.
Discovered Kano about 15 years ago working on tower cranes best thing ever used on extremely seized parts. Nothing on the market works as well on extremely seized parts as Kano. Very expensive but the time you save in labor using other lubricants it’s worth the price. Didn’t buy one can at a time always bought 2 cases at a time. Great choice.