Dylan Zrim don’t get me wrong I love the skid factory and Al is an amazing mechanic, but the level of professionalism and straight up knowledge dropped in these videos is second to none
@@markoz673bajen8 chris fix... really???? the guy who "repairs" a rusted fender of a unibody where the rust is so bad that a good part of the inner fender is seperated from the outer shell just by slapping some mesh and bondo on their? do that on a few key parts of the body and the structural integrity is pretty much gone, good luck in an accident.
I'm so glad I went drysump on my LS Miata. Amazing oil pressure at all times, doesn't drop off hard with oil temp, much better oil temps, no worries of starving it in drift.
i would imagine most of the benefits towards oil dilution by fuel from a dry sump would be: 1. higher volume of oil, so ratio of oil to solvent would be lower over same amount of runtime 2. oil tank may be vented, and air oil seperator may additionally give time for oil to lose residual solvents. both must be run for a while, and i believe fuel dilution arises after consecutive cold starts, as cold Combustion Chambers allow for fuel to condense and hitch a ride with the oil. perhaps for direct injection applications, a warm-up oil heater could be integrated to reduce fuel accumulation in resevoir, which only runs within a low temp window to prevent unnecessary heat soak
see the toyota prius exhaust heat reclaimation system, plumbing coolant through a thermostat-based jacket around exhaust manifold, letting engine warm up in less time
The part where you said "I need to talk to the engine builder...me...about doing a better job." That made me subscribe on the spot, people never admit when they make mistakes these days so they never learn from them if they just ignore mistakes. A damn good engineer like you always gets better cause you never stop learning and always takes credit for any mistakes.
Yeah, he is a true, humble success. There are all those trophies in the background, but even he makes mistakes when working in his specialty. The difference is, he keeps on truckin' Persistence, not Complacent.
That was cool. Didn’t know a dry sump doubled as a vacuum pump for the crankcase. Definitely helps for running a thinner piston ring and reducing ring friction.
Thinner piston ring? Reducing ring friction? What the hell are you talking about, mate? If you look up the formula for dynamic and static friction you'll see it doesn't depend on the surface area. Just use the piston rings that are made to comply with the manufacturers specifications, and that's it. Snakeoil doesn't lubricate as well... What's actually the case is that the crankcase gets filled with blowby gasses; on a streetcar you want to pull those gasses out because they contain a mist with a little bit of unburned fuel that mixes with and dilutes your oil, and that pulling out is done by the vacuum in the intake manifold; on a racecar where oil gets changed so often that you would never notice that tiny fraction of fuel in there you just want to get the excess pressure in the crankcase out of there. So pulling a vacuum to counteract the blowby pressure is definately a logic thing to do, but i'm not so sure about going beyond that and pulling a vacuum, that introduces new problems. p.s. Ok, there are piston rings on the market that have a round over or a sharper edge that contacts the cylinder wall, but that thin edge isn't there for reducing friction, it's there to wear out faster, so that you have a faster first stage break in of your engine. Tin coated piston rings have the same effect, that tin is there for the exact same reason. And Piston rings with any kind of coating on the outer edge are there for the same reason. Due to a multi-stage break-in you will have an engine that performs better because the break-in happened at better conditions. That's what the engineers say, meanwhile the marketeers tell fairytales about reduced friction.
@@sasjadevries While you are generally right about friction not dependant on surface, you forgot that the force with which rings pushes against the walls depends on surface area of the rings since it's combustion gas that pushes the ring against the cylinder wall.
A dry sump also permits a larger oil capacity without making a bigger oil pan. The engine can be mounted lower, lowering the center of gravity. The oil tank can be mounted any where on the car for weight distribution.
By design the nose has a stuffy nostril wich regen his moisture and tissues every 3 hours or so.(like a DPF i guess lol) So you always have a partially clogged nostril for 3 hours and it switches to the other. Just try sniffing pretty hard several times during the day,you will see one side is working better than the other.
A full race car oil system break down would be cool, if this is a vacuumed system then do you even need to have a catch can set up for blow by? Also thank you for the videos and the information! Super insightful!
apparently the oil tank can serve as an air oil seperator if built correctly, and the scavenge pump will pump crankcase vapors, oil mist, etc along with the air it takes out( the lack of air is what can be considered the level of vacuum) which is then fed through a baffled input to the tank. i believe dry sump takes the catch can idea and does it properly...
Cool video! I'm kinda fascinated with dry sumps, even though I really don't have an application that needs one. Something I've noticed is that cars like the Z06 corvette (both LS6 and LS7) use a integrated oil pump in the stock location for their dry sumps. It would appear that they only use a single scavenge stage. This got me thinking, for something like a budget drag car with oiling issues, or a 24 hours of lemons car, could you fabricate a feed line to the stock oil pump, and run a cheap electric scavenge pump for a simple, low cost dry sump. Leave the stock oil pan in place, just allow for small amounts of oil to pool in the bottom. You could increase oil capacity and reduce oil starvation for minimal cost, but of course likely without the benefit of drawing a vacuum, or increasing ground clearance. Neither of which is a massive concern for either application.
@@gigamac2486 i suspect you are correct, however after the oil passes through the pump it will again be aerated, but that happens on a normal pump as well.
Great video. Many super cars now come with dry-sump from the factory. This includes the 2nd gen NSX, R8, Huracán, and pretty much all Ferraris from the last 30 years. In these vehicles the scavenging passages are cast into the sump and the external oil pump bolts right to the side of the sump. This eliminates all of the scavenge hoses.
theres a difference between a 120 dollar stock set sump oil pan with modifications and a 3000 dollar stock dry sump with integrated pump pan. apples and oranges man
Another great vid! Just one thing i failed to understand. Does this system replace the original oil pump or is it used just to feed oil to the original onboard pump?
Oh My God!!! Do you read my mind today??? This morning i was hoping that you can do some teardown for dry sump system. But, now i when checking the notifications, this video is there. How cool is that?? Super nice 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Do you have some mind reading ability?
Huh, I'd always thought that one advantage of a dry sump, especially on race cars, was that the bottom of the engine would have less ground clearance (no big pan), thus the vehicle could have a lower center of gravity. Is there any truth to that?
Thank you I yesterday was looking up things needed to do a dry sump to an old small block Chevy. You answered more questions then I had. Your videos are helping me build my first drag car. Thank you Stephen.
The Lil cone filters remind me of The filters in our Accessory module on a Blackhawk That we like to call Witches hats. I love how much is simillier to the Aviation world in racecars.
Not only is this video/channel informative, but great watch. Due in part by the non-aggressive manner of speaking, meaning that you make the audience feel like the information is more important than that of the person dishing said info. In a nutshell, You aren't coming into a channel such as this, once you hear the engine builder, the mechanic or shop owner talk in a way that makes him feel important(More so than the product/info he is selling) or worse, ARROGANT, that at this particular point, you shut off from listening FURTHER. Thus make a determination(Albeit possibly wrong) that the info could also be GARBAGE.
@PapadakisRacing at 3:46 you appear to have your photos out of sequence. You are pointing at the engine inlet side while you are talking about pumping the oil out. I think that photo was meant to go at the end.
I was wondering if a BMW S38B38 (E34 M5) wet sump engine can be converted to dry sump for use in an E26 M1 (replica)? And where could one possibly get the parts (made)?
I have an RB30 Nissan. Oil pressure is ALWAYS an issue. Strongly considering a system like this. Yes I know it’s not cheap. But neither is replacing an engine due to low oil feed.
PapadakisRacing (small help!!!) when choose a engine what to you see? That is if have no sponsors and you are doing a startup of the company (what do you see in oil) as you don't have money to waste on premium motor oil such as (motul v300) and get the best out the engine. Such as buying a whole 200litre barrel. What test will you do on the oil? If possible make a video on it. Thank you. Your friend from India. Temperature testing, Viscosity, color, detergent, corrosion, moisture test,etc.
Hey man thanks for not making your videos into 45 minute cancer vlogs. you're classy, professional, and your videos are simple to understand, informative. you're the best. pls make more videos. anything the master of drifting makes i'll watch
this is what i realized. Stephen Papadakis's channel is like Jason's Explained Engineering channel but he actually shows us the real thing. And has IRL experience.
Couldn't you get away with only having a front and rear pump for heavy braking and acceleration respectively? That would reduce the complexity of the system, but I guess if you're putting in a dry sump, you don't care as much about cost.
I'm planning a build. I have a lot component's for it already. But I was wondering if this would be worth running on a 1.8 4 cylinder turbo at about 600hp. Id have to make my own oil pan because there's no dry sump kits for my engine. But my motor has a perfect place to mount the pump its the previous ac location that's belt driven.
$50,000+ for a 5 axis CNC mill, a lot for tooling, expensive drafting software, etc. Oh yeah, and a giant chunk of aluminum. Yeah, I'm pretty sure this is custom.
well first you have to look at the original mass of the ally then add at least 20% size over the finished product, then you have to put into account if you are having to pay a draftsman to create the 3d design usually at around $120 - $200 an hour, or if you supplying one which is capable to be inserted into a CNC machine, then you're looking at another $140 - $200 an hour while the machine does it's thing. So all up you'll probably be looking at somewhere around the $2500 to $4000 mark for the design and metal work, pending on if you need to have the design done or if you already have one which can be used. I have just looked up the cost of aluminium and it's going for 1.8k a tonne for the trading stock prices, so you'll probably be looking at somewhere between $800 - $2000 just for your raw materials if you can get them under retail prices. So at the end of the day you wouldn't be too far off of $5,500 if not more just for your oil pan .... This is why it's good to have sponsors or in house machines and techs. Even though it would not be anywhere near as strong, you could always just cast one, as that would save you a bucket load on materials, machining and increase your ability to be able to mass produce it for profit. :)
@@MassageWithKlay thanks a bunch dude. I knew that it'd be much more expensive, but I didn't know any of the technicalities behind it. I appreciate the input. Thanks!
Ok, but you didn't mention how it lubricates the engine. Very good explanation of how oil is delivered from the crank to the reservoir, back through the sump filter -> oil filter -> cooler and then to the engine. But back where? Where does it go in order to provide sufficient lubrication, head cylinder and due to the gravitational force drips back to the crankcase? Or is injected in different parts of the engine?
i know this sounds like extra weight, and complexity but what if relief valve oil was directed to a tank with a sealed piston (oil one side - compressed air on the other) have this and the pressure lube join at a shuttle {[highest pressure/flow wins] (on/off solenoid so engine can be prelubed and/or turbo always has pressure even if snuffed / inline check incase of shuttle failure so pump doesnt ever try to back feed)} grammer etc not checke, just ideas but it would allow for an accurate warning lamp if pump failed and give driver time to shut down before the crank touches the mains
Since this is a relatively low pressure oiling system (easily sealed with an o-ring connection) why not just extend the aluminum housing to accept the pump inlets and omit the four hoses. The inlets would have a metal tube each with dual o-rings and mount to the housing and the block. The pump would be closer to the sump and the intel prime would be a shorter distance. Have you ever designed a dry sump which has an electric motor drive (this is very popular for off highway)? For road car applications which require redundancy, the pumps are spit into two sides or two scavenging pumps and the two are joined with check valves such that if you loose one brushless dc motor the other will make sure the engine is not starved of oil. The pumps can be smaller, more efficient and with tighter tolerances because they run at a single speed.
I don't know if it's possible but could you explain the cam type fuel pump or cam driven mechanical fuel pump? I was wondering what's the pros and cons of one on a mild setup
Great video, thx. Can you do one on the rest of the system especially the air oil separation options, from wet sump to big pumped separator to a powered (spinning guys) separator? Or maybe someone knows where some good info and comparisons on these can be had. Thx again.
Question to all the experts out there: Since this style of oil system is used mostly in racing engines, I suppose it does not matter that much to get comparable oil life to wet sump oil systems. However, by the looks of it, this style of pump looks like it would 'shear' oil much faster than your conventional wet sump pumps out there. Is my assumption correct?
this dude is a better teacher than 95% of all teachers and professors I've dealt with in life. Musk please use this guy as patient zero for when you create AI robot.
The main reason why dry sump systems are better is the fact that you have constant oil pressure on all the galleries, tubes and passages which is important for adequate lubrication without causing oil starvation, which is possible on a wet sump. Since the oil is stored in a separate container than the engine itself, you can have more a better cooling effect in the process. The drawback is there is a difficulty of fully draining the oil, unlike a wet sump system where all the oil is at the oil pan.
It appears you are running nylon outer lines? I have heard these are lighter weight. Can you tell us the pros and cons of each type of line? Stainless vs nylon. Building my first dry sump engine right now and leaning toward the lighter weight lines.
Thanks for your video! Where is the oil input connection located onto the engine block ? Is the oil being fed into the engine through the stock oil filter port ? Thanks
If all the slots are on the right side of the sump, does that not mean the pump is pulling air every time the car turns right? I suppose the tank is big enough to supply oil for longer than the longest turn without being replenished but would multiple seconds without oil flow at high revs not wear the pump?
This style of video is why I've subscribed: Direct explanation by someone who seems actually human. I get no sense of urgency to purchase anything, or falsely hyped emotions, just direct information about what I'm looking at. Thank you Stephan.
Great video! So due to the added vacuum pulled on the crank case by the dry sump pump, would this drop the need for a pcv system all together? The clean air tube from the intake\suction pipe that replaces the crank case vacuum loss would also be redundant? I'm assuming that air would be now coming from the oil catch can, or the boost would be still creating an over pressure to vent to the tank.
Papadocalockanockadockulus Racing. A dry sump by definition means there is no fluid there. I mean I love my oil system. So much so they actually laser etched my name on it and the engine block.
Random fact, you only ever breath through one nostril, it just changes every half hour or so. Not really sure how I know that just a random fact your video reminded me of 🤷🏻♂️🤣
No other car channel gives such easy to follow, straight to the point quality information. Keep it up!
artdamage0 the skid factory.
You’ll get this and more.
Dylan Zrim don’t get me wrong I love the skid factory and Al is an amazing mechanic, but the level of professionalism and straight up knowledge dropped in these videos is second to none
Chris Fix.
@@markoz673bajen8 chris fix... really???? the guy who "repairs" a rusted fender of a unibody where the rust is so bad that a good part of the inner fender is seperated from the outer shell just by slapping some mesh and bondo on their? do that on a few key parts of the body and the structural integrity is pretty much gone, good luck in an accident.
Man, I absolutely don't *need* a dry sump, but I need one because it looks so important and racecar
1hdsquad craving a drysump system so bad right now lol
They cost a lot, but when you look at all the pros to them, you understand why they’re the best route for performance oiling on a race car.
I'm so glad I went drysump on my LS Miata. Amazing oil pressure at all times, doesn't drop off hard with oil temp, much better oil temps, no worries of starving it in drift.
You're a beast
Could a dry sump oil system, solve the issue of oil dilution? Which seems to be a problem for vehicle with direct injection.
i would imagine most of the benefits towards oil dilution by fuel from a dry sump would be:
1. higher volume of oil, so ratio of oil to solvent would be lower over same amount of runtime
2. oil tank may be vented, and air oil seperator may additionally give time for oil to lose residual solvents. both must be run for a while, and i believe fuel dilution arises after consecutive cold starts, as cold Combustion Chambers allow for fuel to condense and hitch a ride with the oil.
perhaps for direct injection applications, a warm-up oil heater could be integrated to reduce fuel accumulation in resevoir, which only runs within a low temp window to prevent unnecessary heat soak
see the toyota prius exhaust heat reclaimation system, plumbing coolant through a thermostat-based jacket around exhaust manifold, letting engine warm up in less time
Does it produce a straight cut whine sound since it has spur gear inside?😊
The part where you said "I need to talk to the engine builder...me...about doing a better job."
That made me subscribe on the spot, people never admit when they make mistakes these days so they never learn from them if they just ignore mistakes.
A damn good engineer like you always gets better cause you never stop learning and always takes credit for any mistakes.
Yeah, he is a true, humble success. There are all those trophies in the background, but even he makes mistakes when working in his specialty. The difference is, he keeps on truckin'
Persistence, not Complacent.
I made a mistake, by bang n your mom ! Now she can't stop calling me
What I love about these videos are how informative they are without being too long
daily Whatever he is great at conveying alot of accurate information in a quick and easy to digest form
Check our Moto iQ as well. The few videos they do publish are generally great information.
Your videos are pure gold. Thank you 🙏🏽
That was cool. Didn’t know a dry sump doubled as a vacuum pump for the crankcase. Definitely helps for running a thinner piston ring and reducing ring friction.
Internal air cooling 🙂
Thinner piston ring? Reducing ring friction? What the hell are you talking about, mate? If you look up the formula for dynamic and static friction you'll see it doesn't depend on the surface area. Just use the piston rings that are made to comply with the manufacturers specifications, and that's it. Snakeoil doesn't lubricate as well...
What's actually the case is that the crankcase gets filled with blowby gasses; on a streetcar you want to pull those gasses out because they contain a mist with a little bit of unburned fuel that mixes with and dilutes your oil, and that pulling out is done by the vacuum in the intake manifold; on a racecar where oil gets changed so often that you would never notice that tiny fraction of fuel in there you just want to get the excess pressure in the crankcase out of there. So pulling a vacuum to counteract the blowby pressure is definately a logic thing to do, but i'm not so sure about going beyond that and pulling a vacuum, that introduces new problems.
p.s. Ok, there are piston rings on the market that have a round over or a sharper edge that contacts the cylinder wall, but that thin edge isn't there for reducing friction, it's there to wear out faster, so that you have a faster first stage break in of your engine. Tin coated piston rings have the same effect, that tin is there for the exact same reason. And Piston rings with any kind of coating on the outer edge are there for the same reason. Due to a multi-stage break-in you will have an engine that performs better because the break-in happened at better conditions. That's what the engineers say, meanwhile the marketeers tell fairytales about reduced friction.
@@sasjadevries While you are generally right about friction not dependant on surface, you forgot that the force with which rings pushes against the walls depends on surface area of the rings since it's combustion gas that pushes the ring against the cylinder wall.
If y'all could keep this discussion going it would be awesome so many principles involved in efficient combustion.
A dry sump also permits a larger oil capacity without making a bigger oil pan. The engine can be mounted lower, lowering the center of gravity. The oil tank can be mounted any where on the car for weight distribution.
By design the nose has a stuffy nostril wich regen his moisture and tissues every 3 hours or so.(like a DPF i guess lol)
So you always have a partially clogged nostril for 3 hours and it switches to the other.
Just try sniffing pretty hard several times during the day,you will see one side is working better than the other.
michaelovitch i noticed this but didn’t realise that is how it’s meant to work! Interesting! Thanks for the info
Unreal video series!
Perfectly shot, edited and narrated.
Cannot get enough of your content!
Geat video. I've always wanted to see how a dry sump system works.
Crusher! Thanks Stephan, stoked I found your videos. Really appreciate you taking the time to show some of the tricks that make more ponies.
A full race car oil system break down would be cool, if this is a vacuumed system then do you even need to have a catch can set up for blow by?
Also thank you for the videos and the information! Super insightful!
apparently the oil tank can serve as an air oil seperator if built correctly, and the scavenge pump will pump crankcase vapors, oil mist, etc along with the air it takes out( the lack of air is what can be considered the level of vacuum) which is then fed through a baffled input to the tank. i believe dry sump takes the catch can idea and does it properly...
Cool video! I'm kinda fascinated with dry sumps, even though I really don't have an application that needs one. Something I've noticed is that cars like the Z06 corvette (both LS6 and LS7) use a integrated oil pump in the stock location for their dry sumps. It would appear that they only use a single scavenge stage. This got me thinking, for something like a budget drag car with oiling issues, or a 24 hours of lemons car, could you fabricate a feed line to the stock oil pump, and run a cheap electric scavenge pump for a simple, low cost dry sump. Leave the stock oil pan in place, just allow for small amounts of oil to pool in the bottom. You could increase oil capacity and reduce oil starvation for minimal cost, but of course likely without the benefit of drawing a vacuum, or increasing ground clearance. Neither of which is a massive concern for either application.
zo6 had oil issues from the factory
Great video as always. Would it be possible for you to discuss aeration of the oil and how you remove the air?
I think the vacuum in the crank case would help with that, like how mold makers use a vacuum chamber for their silicon
@@gigamac2486 i suspect you are correct, however after the oil passes through the pump it will again be aerated, but that happens on a normal pump as well.
Waaaa its like a supercharger for lubeoil similarly its increases the hrspwr!
Is that a new Corolla there? 2:23 😉
Didn't know about the crank case ventilation benefit part
Any suggestions on where you should feed the oil to and how? Trying to settle an argument.
Great video. Many super cars now come with dry-sump from the factory. This includes the 2nd gen NSX, R8, Huracán, and pretty much all Ferraris from the last 30 years. In these vehicles the scavenging passages are cast into the sump and the external oil pump bolts right to the side of the sump. This eliminates all of the scavenge hoses.
theres a difference between a 120 dollar stock set sump oil pan with modifications and a 3000 dollar stock dry sump with integrated pump pan. apples and oranges man
Easily some of the best (if not the best) race car centric tech videos. Thanks for the time you put into these!
Another great vid! Just one thing i failed to understand. Does this system replace the original oil pump or is it used just to feed oil to the original onboard pump?
These videos are absolutely brilliant. Great production, editing & knowledge. Required watching. Thank you!
What about pressure regulation and deaeration?
the oil tank has an oil seperator desing inside it. hope that helps
I was pumped to watch this video! So cool to see how this works! Thank you.
Oh the puns. You weren't afraid to go there...
Oh My God!!! Do you read my mind today??? This morning i was hoping that you can do some teardown for dry sump system. But, now i when checking the notifications, this video is there. How cool is that?? Super nice 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Do you have some mind reading ability?
How often do dry sump systems have to be serviced?
so what exactly do you do with the internal stock pump, or how do you modify it to make it useless?
You mean to make it useful, right?
@@Parapumbito I think the question is: Is the stock oil pump still used? I'm guessing no since it probably can't handle the high engine speeds.
👍Hello really good videos👍
Huh, I'd always thought that one advantage of a dry sump, especially on race cars, was that the bottom of the engine would have less ground clearance (no big pan), thus the vehicle could have a lower center of gravity. Is there any truth to that?
Thank you I yesterday was looking up things needed to do a dry sump to an old small block Chevy. You answered more questions then I had. Your videos are helping me build my first drag car. Thank you Stephen.
Very nice.
Question, the original oil pump from the engine is delete? Thank you
So does the dry sump eliminate the need for crankcase ventilation?
kjellgerry i guess it would as the dry sump system is drawing a vacuum a traditional vent would not work
How much mechanical power does this pump draw? With all those gears and lobes, I'd imagine quite a bit more then a normal wet sump pump...
The Lil cone filters remind me of The filters in our Accessory module on a Blackhawk That we like to call Witches hats. I love how much is simillier to the Aviation world in racecars.
Thank you and keep up with the short info-packed videos. Informative enough and not too lengthy; they can be watched in between work breaks.
Blimey mate, I hope your work breaks are longer than 4 mins😀
@@markdavis2475 Not always.
short and useful
1:53 lol
Looks more complicated high chance to fail because there is lot of components.wet sump is best
Not only is this video/channel informative, but great watch. Due in part by the non-aggressive manner of speaking, meaning that you make the audience feel like the information is more important than that of the person dishing said info.
In a nutshell, You aren't coming into a channel such as this, once you hear the engine builder, the mechanic or shop owner talk in a way that makes him feel important(More so than the product/info he is selling) or worse, ARROGANT, that at this particular point, you shut off from listening FURTHER. Thus make a determination(Albeit possibly wrong) that the info could also be GARBAGE.
I had never seen a system of these! Very educative! thanks 4 sharing
Hopefully I’ll be able to build a successful dry sump system for my custom engine project 😭😭 W video 🙌🙌
@PapadakisRacing at 3:46 you appear to have your photos out of sequence. You are pointing at the engine inlet side while you are talking about pumping the oil out. I think that photo was meant to go at the end.
I was wondering if a BMW S38B38 (E34 M5) wet sump engine can be converted to dry sump for use in an E26 M1 (replica)?
And where could one possibly get the parts (made)?
If you're not lowering the engine to ground level then that thing is a waste of money
I have an RB30 Nissan. Oil pressure is ALWAYS an issue. Strongly considering a system like this. Yes I know it’s not cheap. But neither is replacing an engine due to low oil feed.
PapadakisRacing (small help!!!) when choose a engine what to you see? That is if have no sponsors and you are doing a startup of the company (what do you see in oil) as you don't have money to waste on premium motor oil such as (motul v300) and get the best out the engine. Such as buying a whole 200litre barrel. What test will you do on the oil? If possible make a video on it. Thank you. Your friend from India.
Temperature testing, Viscosity, color, detergent, corrosion, moisture test,etc.
Hey man thanks for not making your videos into 45 minute cancer vlogs. you're classy, professional, and your videos are simple to understand, informative. you're the best. pls make more videos. anything the master of drifting makes i'll watch
Cheers for knowledge,very helpful..
Where does the engine inlet go? Filter->cooler->oem location for oem oilpump?
this is what i realized. Stephen Papadakis's channel is like Jason's Explained Engineering channel but he actually shows us the real thing. And has IRL experience.
Couldn't you get away with only having a front and rear pump for heavy braking and acceleration respectively? That would reduce the complexity of the system, but I guess if you're putting in a dry sump, you don't care as much about cost.
I'm planning a build. I have a lot component's for it already. But I was wondering if this would be worth running on a 1.8 4 cylinder turbo at about 600hp. Id have to make my own oil pan because there's no dry sump kits for my engine. But my motor has a perfect place to mount the pump its the previous ac location that's belt driven.
How much would one of those billet oil pans run on average?
$50,000+ for a 5 axis CNC mill, a lot for tooling, expensive drafting software, etc. Oh yeah, and a giant chunk of aluminum. Yeah, I'm pretty sure this is custom.
well first you have to look at the original mass of the ally then add at least 20% size over the finished product, then you have to put into account if you are having to pay a draftsman to create the 3d design usually at around $120 - $200 an hour, or if you supplying one which is capable to be inserted into a CNC machine, then you're looking at another $140 - $200 an hour while the machine does it's thing. So all up you'll probably be looking at somewhere around the $2500 to $4000 mark for the design and metal work, pending on if you need to have the design done or if you already have one which can be used. I have just looked up the cost of aluminium and it's going for 1.8k a tonne for the trading stock prices, so you'll probably be looking at somewhere between $800 - $2000 just for your raw materials if you can get them under retail prices. So at the end of the day you wouldn't be too far off of $5,500 if not more just for your oil pan .... This is why it's good to have sponsors or in house machines and techs.
Even though it would not be anywhere near as strong, you could always just cast one, as that would save you a bucket load on materials, machining and increase your ability to be able to mass produce it for profit. :)
@@MassageWithKlay thanks a bunch dude. I knew that it'd be much more expensive, but I didn't know any of the technicalities behind it. I appreciate the input. Thanks!
The pan could probably run a mile in about 4 minutes.
Ok, but you didn't mention how it lubricates the engine. Very good explanation of how oil is delivered from the crank to the reservoir, back through the sump filter -> oil filter -> cooler and then to the engine. But back where? Where does it go in order to provide sufficient lubrication, head cylinder and due to the gravitational force drips back to the crankcase? Or is injected in different parts of the engine?
i know this sounds like extra weight, and complexity but what if relief valve oil was directed to a tank with a sealed piston (oil one side - compressed air on the other) have this and the pressure lube join at a shuttle {[highest pressure/flow wins] (on/off solenoid so engine can be prelubed and/or turbo always has pressure even if snuffed / inline check incase of shuttle failure so pump doesnt ever try to back feed)} grammer etc not checke, just ideas but it would allow for an accurate warning lamp if pump failed and give driver time to shut down before the crank touches the mains
Since this is a relatively low pressure oiling system (easily sealed with an o-ring connection) why not just extend the aluminum housing to accept the pump inlets and omit the four hoses. The inlets would have a metal tube each with dual o-rings and mount to the housing and the block. The pump would be closer to the sump and the intel prime would be a shorter distance.
Have you ever designed a dry sump which has an electric motor drive (this is very popular for off highway)? For road car applications which require redundancy, the pumps are spit into two sides or two scavenging pumps and the two are joined with check valves such that if you loose one brushless dc motor the other will make sure the engine is not starved of oil. The pumps can be smaller, more efficient and with tighter tolerances because they run at a single speed.
what fluid are you using in the parts washer? Looks so fresh!
I don't know if it's possible but could you explain the cam type fuel pump or cam driven mechanical fuel pump? I was wondering what's the pros and cons of one on a mild setup
Great video, thx. Can you do one on the rest of the system especially the air oil separation options, from wet sump to big pumped separator to a powered (spinning guys) separator? Or maybe someone knows where some good info and comparisons on these can be had. Thx again.
Question to all the experts out there: Since this style of oil system is used mostly in racing engines, I suppose it does not matter that much to get comparable oil life to wet sump oil systems. However, by the looks of it, this style of pump looks like it would 'shear' oil much faster than your conventional wet sump pumps out there. Is my assumption correct?
this dude is a better teacher than 95% of all teachers and professors I've dealt with in life. Musk please use this guy as patient zero for when you create AI robot.
μπράβο ρε φίλε από την όμορφη Θεσσαλονίκη!
The main reason why dry sump systems are better is the fact that you have constant oil pressure on all the galleries, tubes and passages which is important for adequate lubrication without causing oil starvation, which is possible on a wet sump. Since the oil is stored in a separate container than the engine itself, you can have more a better cooling effect in the process. The drawback is there is a difficulty of fully draining the oil, unlike a wet sump system where all the oil is at the oil pan.
Can you do a video about indexing spark plugs ? Will a street car benefit from it? Does it create any kind of power gain ?
Bitchin video as always. My only question is why no scavenge stage from the head?
Thanks for content
It appears you are running nylon outer lines? I have heard these are lighter weight. Can you tell us the pros and cons of each type of line? Stainless vs nylon. Building my first dry sump engine right now and leaning toward the lighter weight lines.
So a guy would need some machining tools in order to convert a wet sump engine to a dry sump? Have you seen any 'creative' dry sump setups?
Why did you need to change the OEM breather box vs just gutting and plugging it
Thanks for your video!
Where is the oil input connection located onto the engine block ? Is the oil being fed into the engine through the stock oil filter port ?
Thanks
I'm Definitely switching to Dry oil sump for every single one of my cars 🤘
I enjoy watching your videos they educational and entertaining.
can u make a vidio about dry sump oilpump for turbo only ,specially. coz i still confuse to mounting it belt.
If all the slots are on the right side of the sump, does that not mean the pump is pulling air every time the car turns right? I suppose the tank is big enough to supply oil for longer than the longest turn without being replenished but would multiple seconds without oil flow at high revs not wear the pump?
St Paddy's Day gloves, nice touch!
For the pressure pump do the spur gears do the actually pumping them self?
I love these, all the aspects of race engine building are fascinating.
Cole Cambruzzi i could watch hours of his content! Soooo good
How about a dry sump pan that can act as a girdle🤔🤘🤘🤘
I would quit my job and drop out of school if I had the chance to work for this guy.
This style of video is why I've subscribed: Direct explanation by someone who seems actually human. I get no sense of urgency to purchase anything, or falsely hyped emotions, just direct information about what I'm looking at. Thank you Stephan.
Why do this setups rarely use flanges on the sprockets/pulleys?
Another great video !!!! Thanks for lesson !
I absolutely love your videos!
never knew the scavenge pumps had aluminum rotors.. interesting
Would a dry sump oil system, solve the problem of oil dilution?
Great video!
So due to the added vacuum pulled on the crank case by the dry sump pump, would this drop the need for a pcv system all together? The clean air tube from the intake\suction pipe that replaces the crank case vacuum loss would also be redundant? I'm assuming that air would be now coming from the oil catch can, or the boost would be still creating an over pressure to vent to the tank.
Just a slight bit of more detail would be cool. Still enjoyed the video
👍
This is disliked by somebody who dont have dry sump.
Papadocalockanockadockulus Racing.
A dry sump by definition means there is no fluid there. I mean I love my oil system. So much so they actually laser etched my name on it and the engine block.
There's always some residual oil in the pan though, isnt there?
Hope you gave a good lesson to that mechanic who let silicone get loose in oil system! I would shave his head to punish him
verry nice always wanted to see one of these pumps stripped down was unsure what type of pump was used inside
Random fact, you only ever breath through one nostril, it just changes every half hour or so. Not really sure how I know that just a random fact your video reminded me of 🤷🏻♂️🤣
where did you get that crank mandrel?
Wonder how lasting are they used on daily driven cars?
What size socket is for the long bolts that are in the pump?
I will make one with a Catterpillar hydraulic pump
Chris ogląda i lajkuje
is the oil tank itself under pressure while the engine is operating?
Awesome video , thanks for sharing this.