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Saab 9-5 C/V Axle Replacement DIY
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- Опубліковано 31 сер 2016
- This DIY covers the replacement of the drive axle in a 02-09 Saab 9-5.
Product link right: eeuroparts.com/product/dss/0020N
Product link left: eeuroparts.com/product/dss/0020N
This particular video shows the job on the passenger side. If you are doing it on the driver's side, some transmission fluid will be lost, so be sure to get a quart before doing the job. Luckily this axle was not seized, so everything came loose with a few sharp blows. If yours doesn't move upon a solid hit, use the nut trick to avoid mushrooming the end of the axle.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to put a little anti-seize on the driveshaft splines prior to installation to make removal a little easier?
Thanks again for the video. I changed both left and right driveshafts in the past two weeks. This helped me do it right.
This is a great video -- very well done and gives an honest feel for what it's like to do at home. Also, really makes the case for getting an electric impact!
My dad has a nice corded one, it's a lifesaver
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thanks and looking forward to similar videos!
mechanical genius that never did this before.........this made this change a snap........thanks for the visual help!
Thanks for such a great video. Answered all my concerns and I feel well prepared to fix my sisters car! I’m going to check for the part on your business website. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks. I always wondered what the passenger side axle looks like in the intermediate shaft.
Thanks for the great video it really helped my buddys and me replaced mine
Very well presented.
Are there snap rings on the transmission side of the shaft in an ‘06? I can’t seem to get mine off.
Thanks for the video, I need to do it om my Saab
Really useful - thank you.
what wheels are those?
Does the right side / passenger cv axle have to snap in ?
I put in its easily taken out if i pull it out
It feels like it clicks on but that happens when i put it in
I need you around to work on my SAAB 93. Great work
and as every DIYer needs...a 5lb sledge at all times.
Mine cost $30 and weighs 2 kilograms, how much does a £5 one weigh ?
Paldies par informaciju…
I’ve front antibroll bushes that are stiff that I expected was a noise noticed since started driving after covid lockdown but now wondering if it’s the shafts sounds like a broken spring but they aren’t.
Those pipes on the wall ... where do they go, what do they feed/drain ?
What is the model of those rimms? Looks amazing
Is this the same procedure for a 07 9-5?
I have a 1999 9-5, can you advise how the process is different? Maybe a diagram, links if not able to film it for YT? Also what is the part for the 99 vs for your later machine? I am seeing listings some of which have axle shafts out both ends, some of which have a tripod joint on the inside. Which to order? What difference?
Also if you lose ATF on the driver's side, is it reasonable to catch it in a basin and re-add? I heard that there might be a conflict on what fluid to use and that different fluids don't mix.
whew, man really thanks a whole for the video, was a big help for this project. I plan to do drivers side next week. My wife owns an 03' 95 so this video worked perfect for me. So yeah nobody here in lynchburg even sells an e20 inverted torx! I managed to bust em with a 16mm but wow it took a lot of torque. I ended up replacing those bolts to something i will actually have a tool for lol. any videos on a/c compressor replacements? Thanks again i will definetly be subscribing
some 16mm sockets/ also have label e20 on them so those work with e20 and 16mm hex- bolt heads.
Good, thanks for that. Now, its been 4 years, how about doing one on swapping the auto gear box on a 9.5 ?
Was tapping the cv axle necessary? Normally it just snaps into place
So entire work shall take less than 30 min?
SInce those splines can be quite tought to losen, I ALWAYS first remove the axle nut with the car still sitting on the ground and break the splines lose before jacking the car and any other disassembly.
Great videos! I just purchased a 2000 SAAB 9-3 convertible turbo manual trans.. What would be the best combination to lower and fill my wheel wells? I have seen 18 inch wheels but no lowering videos...Hopefully you know best!
www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/404338/Suspension-Strut-and-Coil-Spring-Lowering-Kit-Front-and-Rear-SPORT-11451180/ Will do a great job of lowering your car and firming up the ride do you don't rub.
if the CV joints are gone, will it make a crackling sound when turning and accelerating at low speeds? i feel like i've changed all other joints on the front of the car.. cannot figure this out.
Kjeksy yes...loud clanking sound. Almost like a clap.
Thanks for this great vid!! I am getting a creaking sound, first it was when turning right and accelerating. Now it is also happening when moving from stop/low speed to some acceleration( all this I can only hear at low speeds, could be happening at higher speeds, not sure). Is this because of CV/Axle joint issues or what else could it be? Any insight is much appreciated. Thank you.
did you find out what it was?
I did not use a impact I just kicked it and it came off I'm guessing that's bad
When installing the new axle, it's not a good idea to hit the axle with the hammer which can damage the threads on the axle. Use the old nut on the axle and you won't damage the threads. The new nut is a lock nut which should thread on at least half way by hand then gets tight where the oblong portion of the nut is.
Will the process of a Saab 93 Aero be similar to this? Thank you
Yes, nearly identical
Is that a 3lb hammer you are using or a 5lb hammer? Looks like a 3lb
I didn't see any real reason to remove the caliber , looks like there was plenty of room to remove the lower ball joint
Should it be like exactly the same thing for an 05 9-3 sedan??
Yes, virtually identical.
I have a 2004 Saab 95 and just changed the cv axle that was just about to break, but on the wheel hub bearing, I didn't get the wheel hub bearing replaced cause that bad boy was stuck in there like it was pressed in. I'm gonna give it another try when I do the other side cv axle. Any advice on how to get it out, or should I just take off the hole hub and take it to a machine shop and let them do it? Thanks for any help.
Here's a video about the wheel hub specifically, hope that sheds some light on your issue! ua-cam.com/video/ooWrMnSc4vM/v-deo.html
Did you get the hub out? I just did mine and it was also had to get loose, there is about 10mm where it can be hard to drive out, but i just hit it from the inside going out, and then also hit it on both sides to make it free the rust. It comes out with the brake shield.
i cant seem to remove the hub off my 99 9-5 wagon to replace wheel bearings. its not the later 3 bolt version. but it not coming off with a gear puller. please help!
Safety glasses, lots of heat, and a big hammer. The sharp shock is usually more helpful than the slow torque application of a puller on stuck and rusted parts. Soak the mating surfaces in penetrating oil first, just remember to have good ventilation when applying heat by means of torch.
make sure you remove the bolt that holds the rotor to the hub
but not sure if your setup is the same as an 03 9-5
Is it possible to convert my 2005 9 3 to an awd? If so, can you create a video?
It might be possible, but in general it would be much easier to just buy one already equipped. AWD 9-3's are very low in price right now compared to the cost it would take to buy the parts separately.
I have a 2000 Saab 9-5 v6 turbo can you tell me or show me where the grounds are in the engine bay. My lights flicker and I want to clean the ground ends
Based on the year, I wouldn't think that your lights are xenon. But I have the same problem with my 08 9-5 aero xenon headlights. Based on my research and speaking with a local Saab automotive technician, the ballast is what needs to be replaced for each headlight, which I think is only for xenon headlights. I have read the seals break around the ballast and that allows moisture into it which makes sense based on the flickering when I accelerate, break, go over bumps, I can just picture small water droplets moving around inside the ballast causing all sorts of quirky electrical problems, which my car has. But I've also read it could be the voltage regulator in the alternator, which I just replaced a couple days ago and haven't noticed the flickering yet, but I expect it to show up soon. Sorry I can't tell you where the grounds are as I don't know anything about cars really. I'm learning as I go on my Saab. But I would think anything metal on the engine would be considered a ground, but don't quote me on that. Do more research on that:)
@@christopheralder2666 thanks for your input, I've looked up the ground diagram and it says there is almost 9 grounding points in the engine bay. My lights flicker when I use my window switch or hit my brakes or acceleration. Someone else said check the grounds, but Saab over engineered the cars. Thanks again
Weird. I wish I could give you a good idea. I gather you havent tried to clean the connections yet? Maybe that will be the fix when you do that. Do they flicker when you try other high demanding electrical things, like defrost, seat heaters, ac? If so, have your alternator checked. Also try to look at your positive battery cable for corrosion, especially where it connects to the alternator down below. I've read that the cables can corrode on the inside where it's hard to see the corrosion which causes the current to not be reached and causes heat to build up. I just replaced mine cuz I've had 3 alternators go out in the last 2 years. I saw melting at the connection point to the alternator this time which means too much current is going thru too little cable and heating up. All of this is my theory, cuz like I said Idk anything about cars really. I'm still a beginning learner even tho I'm an old fart
@@christopheralder2666 at the battery no but my cable from the alternator to the battery was cut when I bought the car I fixed it by twisting and taping it but I know I need to replace it. I install car sound systems so I'm about to do what's called the big 3 upgrade and I'll be running 2 new 0gauge lines from the alternator and new 0gauge grounds to the engine and frame plus 0gauge ground for the alternator. So after that is upgraded next spring I'll upgrade all the rest of the grounds to 0 gauge wire.
Yes when I use any electrical they flicker but my seat warmers I don't think they work I can't feel any difference when I turn it on
I did this and had MAJOR clicking when I went to test drive it. (couldn't make it more than 1 foot before it sounded like it was breaking the car, so left it there)
I imagine I didn't hammer the axle into the transmission hard enough (I just pushed fit it by hand).
HOPING I didn't break any threads in the transmission area, hoping if I broke anything, it was the axle. (only $80 and pretty easy to replace)
Definitely double check everything is situated correctly and that nothing is binding up. It is possible the axle is defective. If you bought it at eEuroparts.com, contact us to set up a replacement return under our new Parts for Life program, which is a limited lifetime warranty on nearly all parts we sell!
@@Eeuroparts will do. Thanks!
Use a piece of wood between the hammer and axle or a kind of soft headed hammer to spare the joints.
I would have the nut protecting the end of the axle if hitting with a hammer like that.
Новый привод в сборе... где они его взяли ) И да, долбить молотком по резьбе шруса не лучшая идея... резьба дороже.
Тоже интересно где он брал привод, номерочек хотябы пробить
i cannot get those dam 3 bolts out of the ball joint
Try unloading it with a floor jack, it might be bound up. You can also try to remove the pinch bolt but this will most likely be more difficult.
got them out now havin a hell of time getting back in
Use impact sockets with impact tools and wear safety glasses!!!
Arggh… PLEASE do not use a scaffold pole for tightening nuts. It damages bearings, etc.
Too bad that Axle is of POOR quality . Rebuilding (clean /grease/ reboot) the original axle is FAR better
AWARE?? that the outer CV joint is designed to be separated (C CLIP) to make servicing of it painless. NO need to remove the axle.