The Two Shall Become One - Lakeside Build Part 2
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- In this episode we'll get the two large mdf pieces fitted together, prepare all the outer edges and jig, and make a test cut with the router to get the right slot depth. Grab your tool belt, as we continue our DIY Lakeside Slot Car Track Build!
Oh this brings me back to the sixties.
My grandfather had a small slot car track in the basement. When my cousins and I git together there, right to the basement and race.
Once you start that router you are committed. No hiccups allowed. When we were building our track I was too young to be using the router. Good luck!!
That's the truth, Larry! Although, repairs can be made with a little bondo if something goes terribly wrong. 😄
Thank you for sharing. I am getting educated on how to make a slot car track. Enjoyed.👍
It's not completely different than building a RR layout, except you have a slot and metal braid (or copper tape) instead of track! Thanks!
Looking good 👍 I think your coffee cup has too much down force 😂👍🏁
Yeah, and that handle kinda swings wide in the turns! 🤣
Thanks for sharing! I want to build my own track eventually so this is very helpful as i am a rookie lol
Hey Keith! Every time I pick up my tools I feel like a rookie! 🤣 There are always mistakes to be made. A little bit of automotive bondo and some sandpaper will fix a lot of things! If you want to put your toe in the water, start by taking a small piece of mdf and make a little test loop to run a car in an oval. I did that before I made my first wood track. On that one I didn't use braid, but copper tape on either side of just the 1/8th inch slot. Worked great, and so I then made a 4-lane 16' long track. I think there are still photos of it on Slotblog somewhere.
use jumpers for braid connections
That's pretty cool appreciate you showing step-by-step process on building a wooden slot car track and the jigs that you constructed for it pretty dog gone cool I am not sure how it will work constructing an Ho slot car track but I think that it would be pretty cool for me to try snap together tracks all right but what the hell I'm going to give it a shot
I'm not familiar enough with HO scale to make any comments. I know that some HO tracks use metal bands on edge to provide the current. Good luck if you decide to make a track. You could build a small test loop, which is what I did the very first time some years ago.
Thanks for your detailed videos.
Thank you, Bob! All fun!
Waiting with bated breath for build part 3.
Hi Jason! Just posted part 3. Trying to speed things up as I just finished editing part 6 so far.
The concern I have is that the lanes are not the same length. On tracks for track and field runners, the starting points are adjusted for the difference in lane length for starting. The outer lane has the greatest distance to go if all vehicles start together and are supposed to end together. A figure-8 whether up and over or level crossing will give equal distance for all lanes.
Roy, great observation. So here's how we race with our club... We might have anywhere from 3 to 10 racers. The computer knows each racer and tracks them. A race is completed when every driver races all 3 lanes (or however many lanes the track may have with 4 being the usual). We typically do 3-minute heats. That means every driver on my track will have 9 minutes to accumulate laps for a total lap score from all 3 lanes. In this format, the length of each lane doesn't matter.
@@StanFerris Nice.
Very cool Stan!! Love jigs, a builders best friends.
Now I’m really curious how your going to do the power tracks.
Thanks again!!
Gluing down the metal braid is the last nerve wracking step. I'll be using contact cement (like putting down laminate) and so a lot can go wrong in a hurry. 😨 And I'll have to make an appliance to help me install it. I just finished editing a Part 6 this morning.
@@StanFerris Looking Forward to them all!!
linked corners rather than short straights
Hi, another question, I am building a 4 lane oval track 1/24th scale 8'x18' do you think 4 power taps per lane is enough, or do I need more ? Thanks Sean
Hi Sean! The wood tracks in our club with conductive braid all have just a single power tap, with the braid squeezed together at any of the joints for a mechanical connection. I added jumpers on mine just for insurance, but it wasn't really needed. By comparison, on my Carrera track, the stainless rails were very lossy and I could see the voltage drop on my meter going away from the main power tap. So I had to add at least 3 other power taps because of the resistive nature of the rails. The braid seems to conduct very efficiently.
Hi, did you use 1/2" MDF or 3/4" , I'm going to use 1/2, but it almost doesn't look thick enough ? Thanks Sean
Hi Sean! Yes 1/2" mdf is the correct thickness. All of our club tracks are 1/2" mdf. Have fun with your project! Don't hesitate to send me questions: I'll do my best to help.
Great thank you!!, I will probably need help with the wiring. I noticed you didn't prime the mdf before painting it, would you recommend priming or not, or doesn't it matter ? Thanks @@StanFerris
You're right, I didn't prime coat the mdf. The last wood track I built wasn't primed either and that was over 10 years ago, and the exterior grade paint is holding up just fine. I honestly don't know if it would make a difference or not. Not sure what software you'll be using, but I've had a bit of experience with TrackMate. Let me know what questions you have when you get to the wiring stage.