12:16 You could also use shorter screws only going through the 1st inner screw hole of the fan instead the outer hole. That's how we used to do it prior to longer screws. Always slim fans, but not sure how much impact performance would with slimmer fans
Could use shorter screws instead of going through both fan apertures just the bottom. That would save 2mm. If there is enough material on the fan housing could counter sink for a flush mount. Prob not feasible but that spine could be made out of carbon fiber, CRP, FGRFP to be very thin while also have strength. Those materials can be a bit harder to work with though. Maybe acrylic or aluminum would be easier. If you did go with a metal spine I wonder if it could be incorporated as a kind of heatsink for some additional heat dissipation. Any worries about those threaded inserts spinning in the spine? If you do go with a metal spine ya ever heard of Nutcerts/Rivet nuts? I am sure you have. That may be something worth considering. They come in very handy.
Can't wait for the final product. I have some concerns about the fan of the 3rd 120mm radiator over there. Might cause some funky airflow disturbances and make things worse temperature wise. Hopefully not. Neat job mates!
Our thoughts are to keep the airflow in the same direction, having one side as intake and the other as exhaust. We even have an idea to get fresh air to the exhaust radiator. Otherwise the exhaust radiator will cooled by the warm air from the intake rad.
Good to hear people spread the word about frontal surface area..its why I have been using 180mm (or triple 180mm rads in cases for years now, as frontal surface area is king, and a 540mm rad is the equivalent of more than three 360mm radiators)...Is there a way to run two 94mm radiators stacked with their ports facing to the side, instead of the 120mm rad? gives you that little bit more frontal surface area?
maybe this monoblock could also be used for a nice all in one build with a nice display on one side. but u have to build all of the hardware on one side. It would be a little bit longer but the other side would be free for a nice displaypanel in 17.3 inch from a laptop that would be a realy nice to go setup u guys think u coul build something like that ? :D
have you considered drilling few extra holes or milling out some other grill pattern in the side panels to allow better airflow instead of cutting them out completely?
Instead of using two 184x92 radiators, why not use a single 180x180 radiator? Alphacool has a 45mm thick 180 radiator. Or if you really want the two radiators, you could use a single 180mm fan mounted to the spine with the two radiators mounted to the spine with spacers. The fan should just barely fit inside the mounts for the radiators. Or a sheet metal adapter could be used to mount the two radiators to the fan.
I've been building somewhat a similar custom sandwich case (inspired by FormD T1) with air cooling, nothing that powerful yet but it's where my aim is, as I am also using this for both gaming and filmmaking work. Currently have an MDF base to just hold the parts together temporarily which hopefully will be replacing with the old panel I salvaged from my trusty old SG-13 -- Also using the same case's motherboard base as a spine with some of its back salvaged as well. Your cooling idea doesn't exist on the market as it puts Mobo+GPU+PSU together, which makes it a bit thicker and gets it to 13L from 10-11L, even though you don't have a standart, thick air cooling on the GPU. I like the idea, but it obviously needs water cooling to work. (Maybe I should consider it). Watching this gave me ideas as to how I can modify the position of my PSU (and leading nowhere) which has its outputs looking up, and the 90 deg power plug under, with a feet I made to allow the PSU to stand. Similar designs exists on a few other cases as well, which requires you to route a cable outside (or have a plug within the case that it plugs into, which I don't have) so that's one weak link along with the useless space underneath the PSU. I did mod the cables on my older PSU, now having just replaced it with a new one, it does require an update to the cables. I do have something unique though which is a huge, old CPU cooler that is wide but not too tall (it's not a tower), which allows me to get very nice temps at 1000 RPM, where the idea is to have it protrude the case a bit to use as a design choice, but even though I have recorded some footage, I haven't been able to make a video as I don't have the tools you do and it takes very long time to make decent progress and things happen in between. Will be enjoying the video now.
Would be fun to see that a Ryzen 9 7950x would probably be equally fast all around, while using less power. Especially now, after word is out, that when you run your Intel CPUs at "spec" (at the new Intel spec, they've pushed out recently after their high-end CPUs started to basically snuff themselves out over time bc they suck wattage like nothing else and die or at the very least severely inhibit their performance, likely damage themselves, in the process. Motherboard companies made those crazy setups the base settings, Intel knew that and welcomed it bc it gave them the few % to be the fastest in some tests; wasn't enough for every test, not in the slightest), you can lose like 10% performance compared to the usual benchmark results, so the usual benchmark results that get compared to AMD CPUs. looking forward to the new benchmarks where Intel CPUs run at the speed and wattage they should - which is quite a bit slower and less than they were -, without the obvious risk degrading them over an extremely short amount of time.
I have the Iqunix ZX-1 Water version and i tried to Paint it White because i only was able to get this in Black. So i "tried" At the end i got a 20€ Pack of Car glas light polish with grid from 240 up to 5K. I stopped at 2K and used some 2 Parts of Politur from "ruff" to final. That thing is smooth like a (Insdert what u like to) and even that this isnt looking silver light colored because the polish made it Darker, like a light grey. It still looks and feels Better than the Boring Black. For this Case ti cut out, i would first made a airflow fog test and if needed. i would use the Holes as a guide and made a big pattern mabe like the top of the Jonsbo A4 Mini-ITX or Evolv Shift XT ITX-Case but with round corners. You will get a way. But first much fun with custom Cable length and Water routing O_o. I hope the Socket of Nvidia wont get burned.
Why you guys using 20mm fans...when you could use ____15mm 120mm fans____ for the radiator. Also just because the radiator is thicker doesn't mean its performance is going to be any better in the consideration that your confine space is pretty much going to reach its ambient water temperature pretty quickly under load. Especially from this combo XD Where is all the exhaust going to happen...in the middle?
You guys doing amazing job, but there is for sure ways to improve it. Eg: 1. Replace wooden middle spine with acrylic one (metal one whould be better, but it's harder to get) 2. Chizel/Drill vertical canals for air on that spine or you fans will choke. 3. Try both radiators & fans in pull config and get fresh air in between of this rads from bottom of the case (you can drill it) 4. Please tell more metal components in that loop. Copper, aluminium etc. What are you planning against corrosion. Thanks!
Hey, thanks for your comments! The spine will have cutouts for the rads and fans. This episode was just a mock-up for the positions of the mounting points. The final material hasn't been decided just yet! We are going to have one side of the case as intake and the other as exhaust, as this will keep the airflow linear. That's my thinking, but we will test a few variations. The loop is all copper and brass. We do not use any aluminium water-cooled parts.
Just my opinion and the thought could’ve already been made, but why use the single rad that will be pushing hot air through it as exhaust? Thats gonna be a LOT of hot air being pushed through that little guy, it may do create more heat than help the system.
I'm gonna be surprised if this PC manages to survive more than a few years without overheating. There's zero airflow inside this case. That pump is gonna be the first thing to go, followed by other components which rely on airflow for convection cooling inside the case.
Would it be possible to get even more surface area than the rads afford by taking a huge length of something like 8mm copper tube and bending it back and forth and back and forth into a form that fits the full available space, and then just pumping the water through its whole length? Even without radiator fins it would still dump heat from the liquid very efficiently. Fans at front and rear of the case to pass air through that cavity across the whole pipe like an air tunnel - having control over the position of the full path of the liquid would mean you could have the freshest, coldest air passing over the tube right at the end, just before the liquid flows through the block again....and then cut a window into the side and top of the case, covered by an acrylic sheet with a tasteful bend in it so all the plumbing is visible... (This idea is definitely not better than the build you're making, but there's zero chance of me affording a 4090 to try this sort of thing myself and the block is a real launchpad for batshit thought experiments - I imagine this is why ye have two different build projects running synchronously 😅)
4:37 And now you've just created a situation where there will be no airflow inside the case for the components which rely on it for convection cooling. Remembering the intake fans will have to pull air through a thick radiator before any air is introduced inside the case....only for it to be immediately ejected out of the case by the fan right next to them. And I won't be surprised if the first component to fail despite being right next to an opening is your pump. There so many square wheels being reinvented in this video it makes it hard to watch. Considering the amount of modifications you've done to this case, why didn't you start making a case to begin with?
@@fefeanon They don't have 4 fans coming in and the ventilation holes in the case were designed for airflow where air is pulled into the case from the front and exhausted from the sides and back but primarily from the back. The fans used in this system are not designed to draw in or exhaust air from the sides, only front and back. And they're already pressed against radiators, having most of their static pressure dedicated to pull and push air from those. You can see the pump they're using have a small heatsink on the top meant for passive heat dissipation. And said pump will be mounted sitting on top of a power supply which is designed to dissipate part of its heat through its case. And the design pushes hot air inside the case and sends the same hot air to another radiator right next to it where it leaves the case. That will most likely result in a system which will be inefficient because there's little to no cold air to cool the large surface area of the radiators. If you look at how most watercooler systems are designed, you either pull hot air into the case and immediately exhaust it or you push hot air out whilst pulling cold air in.
@@fefeanon If you're gonna buy a manufactured SFF case only to remove 80-90% of its structure because what you're putting there doesn't fit you either need to buy a larger case or build your own case. A lot of the modification done is largely unnecessary and could be solved with parts you can buy instead of hacking openings and spaces with files and so on.
Are you doing any calculation of the combined watt discharge of the radiators, at a given RPM? I was surprised to hear you discuss surface area. When trying to figure out the radiator need for my own build, when I came across the watt ratings, I assumed that was the way to determine it.
could use one mm stainless or aluminium instead of wood. mount to case with small tabs bent to 90 degrees
and holy the end, polished aluminium, copper, leather. man this would look FCKING SICK
12:16 You could also use shorter screws only going through the 1st inner screw hole of the fan instead the outer hole. That's how we used to do it prior to longer screws. Always slim fans, but not sure how much impact performance would with slimmer fans
This is very cool and well done. After watching this, I want to build my own SFF PC now haha
Could use shorter screws instead of going through both fan apertures just the bottom. That would save 2mm. If there is enough material on the fan housing could counter sink for a flush mount.
Prob not feasible but that spine could be made out of carbon fiber, CRP, FGRFP to be very thin while also have strength. Those materials can be a bit harder to work with though. Maybe acrylic or aluminum would be easier. If you did go with a metal spine I wonder if it could be incorporated as a kind of heatsink for some additional heat dissipation.
Any worries about those threaded inserts spinning in the spine? If you do go with a metal spine ya ever heard of Nutcerts/Rivet nuts? I am sure you have. That may be something worth considering. They come in very handy.
Good idea but I would never do this build with Nvidia 12 pin connector.
Can't wait for the final product. I have some concerns about the fan of the 3rd 120mm radiator over there. Might cause some funky airflow disturbances and make things worse temperature wise. Hopefully not. Neat job mates!
Our thoughts are to keep the airflow in the same direction, having one side as intake and the other as exhaust. We even have an idea to get fresh air to the exhaust radiator. Otherwise the exhaust radiator will cooled by the warm air from the intake rad.
Good to hear people spread the word about frontal surface area..its why I have been using 180mm (or triple 180mm rads in cases for years now, as frontal surface area is king, and a 540mm rad is the equivalent of more than three 360mm radiators)...Is there a way to run two 94mm radiators stacked with their ports facing to the side, instead of the 120mm rad? gives you that little bit more frontal surface area?
Walking around with a watercooling rig 😮 good luck with that
maybe this monoblock could also be used for a nice all in one build with a nice display on one side.
but u have to build all of the hardware on one side.
It would be a little bit longer but the other side would be free for a nice displaypanel in 17.3 inch from a laptop
that would be a realy nice to go setup
u guys think u coul build something like that ? :D
That is one sexy PC. Nice job guys, this is awesome!
have you guys seen the waterblocks that use the cooler mounting holes on the MB for water pass through and send the tubes in and out from the back?
W T H !!!! this is fkn amazing
have you considered drilling few extra holes or milling out some other grill pattern in the side panels to allow better airflow instead of cutting them out completely?
I am like your client, I did the mistake of water-cooling my portable SFF setup. Now it weighs as much as Thor's hammer.
can this heat my room on winter ? 🍟🍟
no one going to mention the empty cups
Instead of using two 184x92 radiators, why not use a single 180x180 radiator? Alphacool has a 45mm thick 180 radiator.
Or if you really want the two radiators, you could use a single 180mm fan mounted to the spine with the two radiators mounted to the spine with spacers. The fan should just barely fit inside the mounts for the radiators. Or a sheet metal adapter could be used to mount the two radiators to the fan.
I've been building somewhat a similar custom sandwich case (inspired by FormD T1) with air cooling, nothing that powerful yet but it's where my aim is, as I am also using this for both gaming and filmmaking work. Currently have an MDF base to just hold the parts together temporarily which hopefully will be replacing with the old panel I salvaged from my trusty old SG-13 -- Also using the same case's motherboard base as a spine with some of its back salvaged as well. Your cooling idea doesn't exist on the market as it puts Mobo+GPU+PSU together, which makes it a bit thicker and gets it to 13L from 10-11L, even though you don't have a standart, thick air cooling on the GPU. I like the idea, but it obviously needs water cooling to work. (Maybe I should consider it).
Watching this gave me ideas as to how I can modify the position of my PSU (and leading nowhere) which has its outputs looking up, and the 90 deg power plug under, with a feet I made to allow the PSU to stand. Similar designs exists on a few other cases as well, which requires you to route a cable outside (or have a plug within the case that it plugs into, which I don't have) so that's one weak link along with the useless space underneath the PSU. I did mod the cables on my older PSU, now having just replaced it with a new one, it does require an update to the cables. I do have something unique though which is a huge, old CPU cooler that is wide but not too tall (it's not a tower), which allows me to get very nice temps at 1000 RPM, where the idea is to have it protrude the case a bit to use as a design choice, but even though I have recorded some footage, I haven't been able to make a video as I don't have the tools you do and it takes very long time to make decent progress and things happen in between. Will be enjoying the video now.
why not use a single 180mm fan instead of 4 92mm fans? and consequently why not use a single 180mm radiator?
Would be fun to see that a Ryzen 9 7950x would probably be equally fast all around, while using less power. Especially now, after word is out, that when you run your Intel CPUs at "spec" (at the new Intel spec, they've pushed out recently after their high-end CPUs started to basically snuff themselves out over time bc they suck wattage like nothing else and die or at the very least severely inhibit their performance, likely damage themselves, in the process. Motherboard companies made those crazy setups the base settings, Intel knew that and welcomed it bc it gave them the few % to be the fastest in some tests; wasn't enough for every test, not in the slightest), you can lose like 10% performance compared to the usual benchmark results, so the usual benchmark results that get compared to AMD CPUs.
looking forward to the new benchmarks where Intel CPUs run at the speed and wattage they should - which is quite a bit slower and less than they were -, without the obvious risk degrading them over an extremely short amount of time.
I have the Iqunix ZX-1 Water version and i tried to Paint it White because i only was able to get this in Black.
So i "tried" At the end i got a 20€ Pack of Car glas light polish with grid from 240 up to 5K. I stopped at 2K and used some 2 Parts of Politur from "ruff" to final. That thing is smooth like a (Insdert what u like to) and even that this isnt looking silver light colored because the polish made it Darker, like a light grey. It still looks and feels Better than the Boring Black.
For this Case ti cut out, i would first made a airflow fog test and if needed. i would use the Holes as a guide and made a big pattern mabe like the top of the Jonsbo A4 Mini-ITX or Evolv Shift XT ITX-Case but with round corners.
You will get a way. But first much fun with custom Cable length and Water routing O_o.
I hope the Socket of Nvidia wont get burned.
Why you guys using 20mm fans...when you could use ____15mm 120mm fans____ for the radiator.
Also just because the radiator is thicker doesn't mean its performance is going to be any better in the consideration that your confine space is pretty much going to reach its ambient water temperature pretty quickly under load. Especially from this combo XD
Where is all the exhaust going to happen...in the middle?
You guys doing amazing job, but there is for sure ways to improve it. Eg:
1. Replace wooden middle spine with acrylic one (metal one whould be better, but it's harder to get)
2. Chizel/Drill vertical canals for air on that spine or you fans will choke.
3. Try both radiators & fans in pull config and get fresh air in between of this rads from bottom of the case (you can drill it)
4. Please tell more metal components in that loop. Copper, aluminium etc. What are you planning against corrosion.
Thanks!
Hey, thanks for your comments!
The spine will have cutouts for the rads and fans. This episode was just a mock-up for the positions of the mounting points. The final material hasn't been decided just yet!
We are going to have one side of the case as intake and the other as exhaust, as this will keep the airflow linear. That's my thinking, but we will test a few variations.
The loop is all copper and brass. We do not use any aluminium water-cooled parts.
so you have 335 watts worth of rad to cool 750 watts of electronics ... what could go wrong?
I think we need a singing intro by Dean from here on out 😂
Where is the 4090 going?
Wouldn't 3 120mm radiators in the back be better?
Okey, see u nx month!
Just my opinion and the thought could’ve already been made, but why use the single rad that will be pushing hot air through it as exhaust? Thats gonna be a LOT of hot air being pushed through that little guy, it may do create more heat than help the system.
I'm gonna be surprised if this PC manages to survive more than a few years without overheating. There's zero airflow inside this case. That pump is gonna be the first thing to go, followed by other components which rely on airflow for convection cooling inside the case.
I may have missed it, but how are those fans going to move air against the spine? route air channels into spine??
Would it be possible to get even more surface area than the rads afford by taking a huge length of something like 8mm copper tube and bending it back and forth and back and forth into a form that fits the full available space, and then just pumping the water through its whole length? Even without radiator fins it would still dump heat from the liquid very efficiently. Fans at front and rear of the case to pass air through that cavity across the whole pipe like an air tunnel - having control over the position of the full path of the liquid would mean you could have the freshest, coldest air passing over the tube right at the end, just before the liquid flows through the block again....and then cut a window into the side and top of the case, covered by an acrylic sheet with a tasteful bend in it so all the plumbing is visible...
(This idea is definitely not better than the build you're making, but there's zero chance of me affording a 4090 to try this sort of thing myself and the block is a real launchpad for batshit thought experiments - I imagine this is why ye have two different build projects running synchronously 😅)
4:37 And now you've just created a situation where there will be no airflow inside the case for the components which rely on it for convection cooling. Remembering the intake fans will have to pull air through a thick radiator before any air is introduced inside the case....only for it to be immediately ejected out of the case by the fan right next to them. And I won't be surprised if the first component to fail despite being right next to an opening is your pump.
There so many square wheels being reinvented in this video it makes it hard to watch. Considering the amount of modifications you've done to this case, why didn't you start making a case to begin with?
@@fefeanon They don't have 4 fans coming in and the ventilation holes in the case were designed for airflow where air is pulled into the case from the front and exhausted from the sides and back but primarily from the back. The fans used in this system are not designed to draw in or exhaust air from the sides, only front and back. And they're already pressed against radiators, having most of their static pressure dedicated to pull and push air from those. You can see the pump they're using have a small heatsink on the top meant for passive heat dissipation. And said pump will be mounted sitting on top of a power supply which is designed to dissipate part of its heat through its case. And the design pushes hot air inside the case and sends the same hot air to another radiator right next to it where it leaves the case. That will most likely result in a system which will be inefficient because there's little to no cold air to cool the large surface area of the radiators. If you look at how most watercooler systems are designed, you either pull hot air into the case and immediately exhaust it or you push hot air out whilst pulling cold air in.
@@fefeanon If you're gonna buy a manufactured SFF case only to remove 80-90% of its structure because what you're putting there doesn't fit you either need to buy a larger case or build your own case. A lot of the modification done is largely unnecessary and could be solved with parts you can buy instead of hacking openings and spaces with files and so on.
Are you doing any calculation of the combined watt discharge of the radiators, at a given RPM? I was surprised to hear you discuss surface area. When trying to figure out the radiator need for my own build, when I came across the watt ratings, I assumed that was the way to determine it.