How To: Color Sand and Polish paint!
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- How to Color Sand on a model kit then polish out the scratches!
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I’m currently doing a Tamiya Honda NSX, and I used some Mr. super clear for the varnish, and I’ve noticed that 90% of the time you actually find yourself using the Coarse to remove the little micro scratches, and the Fine and Finish enhance the shine and make it deeper. Also amazing work! I really appreciate the in depth tutorial!
Thank you!
Thanks for this, I had dust in one project, got frustrated but after your vid tried this and it looks a lot better. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
I am so happy I came across this video. Thank you so very much for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for showing these steps like the step chart makes it easier for us average builder.
You bet!
YES ! JUST WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR, THANKS DUDE.
Glad I could help!
Looks great.cant wait to see it done.
You and me both!
Thanks again for the great information,I feel more comfortable now
Great to hear!
This will help me a lot. Thanks. Your car looks awesome.
Thank you!
Very informative video. Thank you for sharing your techniques.
You are so welcome!
Great video. The trickiest part with polishing for me is knowing when enough is enough. The fine line between getting it "perfect" and just end up polishing through and ruining what would have been a perfectly good paintjob.
So true! I have learned that one the hard way myself.
I was waiting to see how you colour sand hahaha! But great video, all in all.
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing just got back in to car building 40yrs.
Thanks! Enjoy building!
i know right its like bugs on your windshield painted 20 coats of black lacquer on my first car 69 chevy 11 454/390 850 hp and the day i got her out of the garage i noticed a bird had shat on the deck lid i never completely got it to disappear thanks for sharing luv your channel best wishes in the new year scooter d😁🤩🙄
Thanks!
maybe a dot of clearcoat paint to fill the bumps around the dust, leaving it dry till you can sand it would resolve avoid to oversanding...nice channel.
Thanks! I haven't tried that.
Dude that clear is amazing what ppl don't realize is that if you don't put your clear coat on wet enough and spray to far you will always get orange peel and rough surface that looks horrible cuse the clear dried before it hit the body I learned that put a medium coat down first then let it flash then lay down a coat as wet as possible right before it starts to run do that about two or three times then you can decide if you want to polish or not by wet sanding cuse if you spray it good like I said it will be a amazing finish with out wet sanding for a display non show car body. I don't like doing all the wet sanding and polishing cuse I do it everyday after I paint real cars and don't wanna do it for my hobby only on my show models or a special build will I do all that extra work and 2k clear makes huge difference guys even rattle can 2k the one you gotta bust the ball to activate it is the best and realwl stuff
Thank you. Everyone has their way of doing things. It doesn’t always work for everyone. I like to add more thinner to the last coat.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler exactly everyone has their own way that works with their style of how they spray and pattern distance and climate of where you live affects how you spray and thin and prep your paints and clears as well. Thanks for the helpful videos imma try thinning for last coat as well
I usually wet sand in as small of circles as I can, not across the problem. The circles blend it together better. Sometimes I sand down a certain amount, then I re-clearcoat that section to fill in the dents and give better sanding depths. I'm 49 and have built some world class models so I am not just trying to act like a little boy with dreams.
Thanks! I had a different result doing the initial flattening in circles. I had created a divot or small depression that way. I forgot to mention it in the video but I like to go one direction with one grit. Then across it with the next grit but doing the circles on the finest grits and polish!
Great tutorial
Thank you!
I have a very hard time wet sanding near the high spots .no matter how careful I am I can never get that orange peel off near the door moldings and trim and it's just so annoying to look at . But I'll try the masking tape and see if that works
I have messed up a few myself. Just keep trying different things till you find what works for you.
I love all the General Motors "G" body cars. Do you also have the Monte Carlo SS or the 83 Hurst Cutlass? Too bad nobody makes the Grand Prix in a non NASCAR version.
Thanks! I don't have any Monte Carlo SS but have thought about buying one since it was recently rereleased. I do have 2 of the 83 Hurst Olds! And a set of decals to make an 84!
Wouldn’t a model of the ‘86 Grand Prix 2+2 be awesome! They could then offer a Monte Carlo Aerocoupe too.
That was great. Thank you. So you touched up a problem area on this video. What do you do to the rest of the body that doesn't have the blemishes you knocked down / How do you get that great black finish to look uniform ?
Wayne Burgess I use an airbrush and spray a few light coats of color then one med coat. Sometimes the last coat is done a few days or the next weekend. The gloss coat is the more expensive 2 part automotive clear. I did a video on the clear I use. I plan to do a video on the airbrushing tips and tricks I use when I paint the bodies.
I was thinking the same thing? Great paint job, but why not wet sand the whole body for a super mirror finish? Im new a wet sanding great video thanks, I will definitely check out more of your videos.
Good video. I should saw it months ago when I did my knight Rider Kitt car.
Thanks!
Cool vid, thanks for sharing!
No problem 👍! Thanks for watching.
Old video but informative. I haven't built any cars in years but I build Gundams and occasionally like to throw one out using custom laquer colors and I have the hardest time out of gloss colors. Almost every time I use gloss colors it almost never fails I get a spec of something in the finish. Can this technique also be used on the paint finish itself to remove the spec, or booger which you call it?
Thanks. I think it should work.
Id love revell to repop this old buick kit such cool looking car i actually tried getting this kit couple times cant ever get it closest was dicast but i prefer the kits so hopefully i get old buick same as fast furious 4 when stealing fuel tankers at start of movie one best scenes of moviegoing under feul tanker tumbling toward him in one these buicks full boost takes off justmaking it under the fire blown tanker yeah great looking paint on it black very hard to get rite i think but ur one looks good great job👍
Revell did rerelease this kit! It is now a 2in1! The box says 87 Grand National 2 n 1 (85-4495) it has both the GN and GNX parts in it! Plus some really nice decals. I had two older kits that the decals were not so good. This new kit is what got mine going!
Great tutorial Raul I hate polishing lol
Thanks! It is not one of my favorite tasks and I did learn some of this the hard way!
I'm not going to lie too you you can still see it , Start off With 1000 grit sandpaper Real sandpaper Lose the masking tape Wet sand the whole body Then use a rubbing compound And then Polish it
I'm not going to lie either, your expectation is much higher than mine. My point was not to make it perfect but to make it better than it is. Yes, it is still visible, but it does not stand out as much. I have destroyed paint jobs doing just what you are asking. I strongly encourage the masking tape for any beginner! I had learned that the hard way.
Great instructions, thanks!!!
You're welcome!
Fantastic video, I've made every mistake possible during paint and polish so it's really useful to pick up tips like covering the edges and high points with tape - I always burn through to the primer somewhere!
I'm presuming the Buick was airbrushed, how many coats of colour and clear do you usually put on?
Thanks! I have learned some of this the hard way! Yes it was airbrushed and 2-3 coats of black and 2 coats of clear.
The Muscle Car Modeler thank you. And which paints do you prefer?
CycolacFan Personally I really like Scale Finishes paint but I use some Tamiya and also Testors.
If you are a brush painter, can you get rid of brush strokes with this method?
Yes. I believe so but will be a lot of work.
Pretty dam good
Thanks. Hope it was helpful.
This will save me from making a video for friends...lol. Thanks brother Ralph
No problem 👍
Great tips on polishing and especially protecting the surrounding detail and body lines. You did a great job laying that black down! If you had got dust or something on the color coat that wouldn't come off just with a light brushing, would you put enough clear on it that it could be sanded smooth or just strip the paint and start over? I get frustrated because several ones I'm not happy with the paint and so I strip it and the model never gets done, lol.
Thanks! On the color coats I will inspect the finish and if that happens and it does since I don't have a paint booth. I will color sand it and lay down another light coat. I did this with the Chevelle I did. I will get usually get another spot to touch up in the second coat but it almost never lands in the same spot as before. Once I have a nice uniform coat that I'm happy with I will lay down the decals and then clear.
What if you paint itself has orange peal? Do you wet sand the paint before the clear?
You can! I have done that on solid colors but avoid it on metallic colors.
Do you use the Tamiya wax that is often advertised with the compounding set?
I bought the wax and tried it. Not sure if I did it right as it didn’t seem to improve it.
Where did you get the set of sanding sponges and the chart? I was hoping for a link. Great tutorial on the sanding/polishing!
They were an eBay purchase.
Great video just found it .I have subscribed lots of great info .I do have a question on this one how many coats of paint and clear did you do I’m having trouble cutting thru the clear coat
Thanks so much
That is a tricky question. I usually do two light coats then one heavy coat of clear. I have sanded through also and that is why I put masking tape down to protect the edges.
Where does the square pads where to get the polishing pads and the compound
I got them off eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/111514754112?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ryyvzJ0AQNu&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=MtP9kYk1TOK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Same with the polish. Not available in the USA that I have found. www.ebay.com/itm/203982896279?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FCS0QmPQTsm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=MtP9kYk1TOK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
color sanding is sanding before clear our cut and buffing but anyway nice work
Thank you!
i still can see the holes,dimples or bubble what ever you call it,, the sanding really lowered them down buy you can see them yet,,, my friend those are lower zone i think,, those dimples should be cover before,, maybe some putty with a surfacer, i dont know buy i still can see them
Yes. I was trying to minimize the issue. I don't strive for perfection and that was the point. I was working it till I was happy with it. I could go farther but that is usually when I go too far and burn through the clear coat.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler ok my friend thx for reply
Great video Ralph I have a question but how do you get such a high gloss shine that you have on the Buick I lack knowledge and skill in this area thanks for the video.
I use real automotive clear coat. Here is a video that I did on it. ua-cam.com/video/lW_RzheHalo/v-deo.html
If i have orangepeal in my paint should i wet sand before clear coat
You can. If it is a metallic basecoat, I try not to sand it. If it is a solid color, I will sand it.
I think you need to go coarser with the micromesh to get it out.
Thanks! I know it's not perfect but I'm happy with it.
How many coats of paint & clear do you usually apply?
Two to three.
Nice paint... great tutorial...can you do the clear on my G.N LOL.
Sure! Send it to me so I can drive it around!
What did you clear with? Is this universal?
I use actual automotive clear coat but that doesn’t matter as much as this will work on any clear coat as long as you don’t sand through the clear.
Great instructions. Can you tell me how much pressure you use when sanding and polishing? I think when I tried this I used too much pressure and burned through the clearcoat.
Thanks. I really can't answer that. It's more of a feel to it than a certain amount. Just do a little and stop, then do a little bit more and check again. Avoid high spots or cover with tape like I did. That is were you will burn through first.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Thank you. I’ll be trying your technique soon. I just ordered a set of the Micro Mesh sanding pads you use. I guess it’s better to do less and leave a small flaw than ruin the whole paint job especially with a bunch of decals.
I agree. Many of mine look a lot better but not perfect. I was afraid to go too far trying to make it perfect. I have messed up a few builds that way and now I stop when I think it looks good and isn't as noticeable.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler like the saying goes “perfection is the enemy of good enough “.
The only take for me is: I still see the dots on the trunk at the end so I think its not worth the effort. But it is black which is not forgiving. Thanks for mentioning the steps.
Thanks. That was the point. Showing you the steps and letting the modeler decide if they want to continue to make it perfect or not. I have ruined paint jobs by going the last little bit and then have to strip and redo. None of my models are absolutely perfect and I don’t strive for that.
thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
How do you get a good base clear coat? How many coats? Do you dilute the clear coat?
I did a video on using real automotive clear coat.
Nice tips
Thanks a lot
What paints do you use. I use acrylic paint I've just started polishing my model cars are acrylics ok to use when I want to polish a model car.
I mainly use Scale Finishes paint with an automotive clear coat.
Were did u get the colour chart from please
That came with the sanding pads. I bought the set off eBay years ago.
thanks good knowledge, what do you do when you've sanded off some off the body line after sanding and clear?
Thanks! Do you mean if I sand through the paint espousing the plastic. If that happens I usually strip and start over. Sometimes you can touch it up but rarely.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler ughh, thanks for answering my question
Have u done a lowering a model with after market wheels video?
No not really. Did it on my 73 Trans Am build that I featured but not a specific video. So many variables In a video like that
I'll check it out.
Thanks
You go to local hobby shop to get the model cars
Some I do and others I find on Facebook or eBay.
Does this step works on resin model car? And remove paint rash away?
I have done this on resin bodies. I have done this with raw resin bodies that have texture in the resin. I have smoothed it out and then primer and paint. Just don't paint a textured body then smooth out the paint. You could be smoothing it out but cut through the paint to the resin.
Hey, would you use the same technique for a resin model kit?
Yes
Do you sand before applying the clear also?
Sometimes. I will on solid colors if needed. I try not to with metallics. If I have to sand a metallic. I will spray another coat of metallic after sanding then not sand again and clear coat.
What happened on my car, also black, used Tamiya and I usually have good results with Tamiya, but this time it came out rough and not smooth. I don’t know what I did wrong. I guess it looks heavily dusted. Not sure if I’m explaining correctly. No clear on car. Should I do the wet sanding and polish? Still don’t really know what went wrong. Thanks
I don’t know for sure but sounds like the spray can was too far away from the model.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Well, I’m gonna wet sand and polish as you have demonstrated on your video. Hope I get good results.
Hi! Do you have any vids or experience using mr hobby polishing compaounds? Would you use them after 12000 grit too?
No, I haven’t used that stuff.
After the last clear coat, how much I have to wait for the sanding and polishing?
Depends on what you use. Some dry faster than others but for me I leave the cleared body in my garage for a week. I clear one weekend then put them in the garage till next weekend. I usually do two or three bodies at a time.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler thanks!
I've just got the Tanya poleshing compound all three would I get the same shine. As you do by Useing acrylic paints.
That is hard to say. I really don't use acrylic so I can't answer. You should see an improvement from start to finish no matter what paint you use.
Nice work. What did you use for your clear top coat? I use 2K clear and noticed that removing scratches from it is very difficult.
I use a real automotive clear coat much like 2K. Best to polish it up in the first month. It gets harder as it gasses out and becomes harder.
Was the flat black done before clearing or was the whole car base coat clear coat?
Thanks
On this one the whole car was gloss coated and everything was shiny. I went back over and hand painted the flat black sections.
Polish then Ceramic coat next
I have never ceramic coated a model.
tamiya polishes are absolute garbage. they make shine by covering the area with OIL residue. once you wash the oil, the haze and scratches come back no matter how many passes you do. dont waste your time and money on it. machine (rotary) polish with mini foam pads (25mm) using automotive stuff (m205 works really good, hit it with heavier grade first if needed). takes literal seconds to do on these soft paints. i cringe every time i see somebody trying to do with tamiya OIL compound and call it polishing lol
the grit ratings are different between regions too. there is no 12000 or even 8000 to speak of. you basically top out at 3000 grit. your 12000 is literally 3000 grit on the normal scale
I have been happy with them but I haven’t tried a rotary polish. I have only done it by hand. I have tried some automotive 3M polish by hand and have burned through. Like you said, it will have a similar grit rating but is actually more aggressive.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Auto stuff is designed for hard 2k coats. A lot of those polishes, especially those made to be used by hand are very very abrasive. you want the finishing compounds with degrading abrasives (like m205) and do very quick light passes with a finishing dremel sized foam pad. no cotton wheels! after a 3k wetsand it takes me 5 seconds to go over a hood for instance. i did the hand thing for years and never wasting effort on that again. for uber small crevices i just use a cotton swab and stick it in the drill and polish door handle recesses and so forth.
I may have to try that. I use real automotive clear coat on my models so the harder abrasives should not be an issue. I rarely polish as this is nice stuff.