Comment from an old Certified Master Technician: The metal band around the circumference of a new flexible coupling is there to facilitate installation. The coupling is intended to be somewhat compressed when in use and if the metal band is removed before the coupling is installed, the bolts don't align with the bolt holes in the metal components of the propshaft.
You need to take 2 steel tubes - weld one end of each to each U joint. Size them so they have a slip fit near the center. This is to keep whatever you use for the flexible drive in a straight line centered on the axis of rotation.
It twisted and pulled in half because it's like a giant rubber band they just kept winding it up and winding it up and eventually it yanked itself apart
Common in cars like the Pontiac Tempest. It was like you said, a large steel cable, but within a tube. Think a lower-end weed-whacker. The cutter head is connected to the clutch via such a shaft. Especially those crappy curved ones.
Another comment from the old Master Technician: The GM driveshaft to which you refer was designed much like an oversized speedometer cable and operated within an enclosed housing, which retained the rotating component so that rotated about it's longitudinal center of mass It appears to me that some of the Garage 54 projects are intended to fail to make the show more interesting. Nothing wrong with that, I enjoy the show Incidentally, I worked for GM for a half century ago before moving on to more interesting work.
No he definitely isn't. There are tons of people who can do anything that comes to their mind. You can too if you out the internet away and start foing actual stuff. They just don't have a utube channel... There is a huge, big giant world out there full of everything you can imagine outside of the internet.
I'm always amazed by the production quality and of course the astounding translation of BMIRussian. Thanks for all of your crazy tests and amazing stuff!
Here's a funny story: for whatever reason instead of "flexible couplings" I used the term "uni-joints". On Friday night I was uploading the video and noticed my mistake, had to sit down and re-dub every phrase where I used the term "uni-joint"...( I don't know where my head was, honestly, must've resulted from me taking in so much holiday spirit (scotch, bourbon).
@@SwapBlogRU I’ve watched a lot of Garage 54 videos in the past. Lately I’ve seen the American version pop up so I’ve been watching it. You make a lot of mistakes surprisingly bratishka. The only accuracy you really have is during his marketing speeches. Most the time you don’t include what he really says which for us Russians is kinda annoying ya know? Just let the American people know what he’s really saying! Лучше честно…чем обманывать. Сволочь Скотина))
@@SwapBlogRU У тебя есть только Одна работа 🤷🏼♂️ Не плачь. Just do your commentary like you’re supposed too and I won’t be giving you such a hard time about it. If you can’t translate what he says entirely than what is even the point. To all these Americans who only speak English yeah they don’t know. But for someone who speaks six languages, I can’t stand people who deceive with translation. My BIGGEST pet peeve. Эта работа братан не так трудно🤣
Keep up the great work. I love your channel. I've literally watched you grow over the years. I was an early subscriber. Here's an idea i have for an experiment. Change the oil on a running engine.
Years ago i did a miniature version on an rc rock crawler, i was waiting for a new one and had some 1/8 or maybe smaller aircraft cable ties with couplers on the end, after looping a few together the driving was interesting.. especially given it was 4x4, the cable would start to twist up and then unleash a fury of wheel spin when it broke traction, quite interesting
Well, very interesting experiments, what if two gear boxes one automatic & second manual (In Rear Wheel drive setup) are connected together, what will be the output how it will behave? Means if manual gear box is added to automatic vehicle before the propeller shaft?
Back in the day GM had an experimental drive shaft that was spring steel inside a torque tube that drove the rear tires, the idea was that it made for a smoother ride. It helps reduce vibrations.
I guess that's kinda similar to the springs at the center of clutches. They probably just took the springiness from the driveshaft and moved it to the clutch for cost savings. Older Porsches use rubber pucks in the middle of their clutches in place of the springs for the same purpose.
I will always remenber the first time I replaced one of these coupling on Hillman Imp. The first thing I did was flipped off the steel clamp holding it in compression a big mistake I should had have fitted it first then removed the clamp.
This could work, the trick would be to stop the bolts twisting inline with the direction of torque, as it puts stress on the rubber couplers in a way they aren't designed to handle. If you had a steel plate between each of the couplers and had the joining bolts welded to it, that would keep them more inline and only apply force to the couplers in the direction they are meant to operate. Same concept as the plates that bolt either side to the existing coupler in most driveshafts. Hopefully that makes sense, would be great to see you do a revised video because I think it would work. Keep up the good work!
Put a bearing on the center on the guide rod and weld it on both ends. The guide rod will now fully support the shaft but won't transmit torque. You'll need a 2 piece guide rod with 2 bearings and a small rod to insert in the bearings. That should help keep it together and make this idea more viable.
as you put a load on the rear wheels, its going to put a load on the driveshaft. the moment the tires hit the snow it couldn't take the torque so it starting to twist. if you were to accelerate very slowly, then you wouldn't have as much of a problem. you probably wouldn't move very much on the snow, never mind an incline, but it looks like it kind of worked lol. going faster killed it for sure.
replace every other elastic segment with a metal plate of the same dimensions, that should prevent the crooked twisting going on but still remain flexible, reducing unnecessary stress and improving durability
@@robertinferno7862 nothing, it may leave some deposits from the additives and eventually eat through the rubber after sitting for a longtime... The vapors are very dangerous, so if the fumes accumulate in the engine bay, a spark can easily cause an explosion. Nobody would do this, as it's pointless and extremely dangerous.
Try using old heavy conveyor belting, and punch out the coupling of that. Will work, you just make them like the flexible ones, with 6 holes in a hexagon, and join up 3 per side. The fabric in the belt will stop it from tearing like the soft rubber couplings. Old belt should be easy to get from any local plant that handles bulk stuff, like coal or iron ore, or from any mill.
A strong crankshaft welded as a segment of drive shaft would be really cool to watch. I wonder if it would act as a flywheel as it is a counter weighted shaft.🤔
"Just a minute lads... I've got an idea..."! (Michael Caine - last line in the film, The Italian Job). Here's my idea: how about 'Rubber in Torsion' as invented by Sir Alex Moulton of Bradford-on-Avon who also did lots of English suspension systems:- Mini, 1100/1300, Gipsy, Maxi, etc etc (oh, and Indispension for trailers and caravans). 2 tubes, one inside the other and bonded to each other internally with rubber. One tube is held solid and the other has the variable force applied to it. In suspension systems this provides a variable spring.
Your design suggestion is viable and has used in vehicle driveshafts. There were problems in some applications with resonant torsional vibrations however.
@@philschaad6693 I agree that frequency dependent resonances would likely be problematic. Garage 54 certainly had some of these 'vibrations' in the video, especially the first two examples!! Full marks though for Content and Star Quality. To quote Frank Sinatra - I Did It My Way. Thought? I wonder if Vlad could be persuaded to sing this on the channel - in Russian!
That's the problem with the whole implementation. Basically, as soon as the rear wheels hit any resistance, the propshaft starts storing torsional energy like winding a spring. At some point, one end or the other (usually the wheels) loses friction and the spring unwinds. Moreover, the release of energy from the spring is in the opposite direction of the original torsion, so the free end would spin backwards. I imagine that if you tried to launch the car by holding the brake while revving the engine, you'd actually take off backwards when you let off the brake.
The problem is that while the goal is flexible, you need to have taughtness and probably a guide tunnel to reduce vibration. Most of all, you need a material which is not going to twist and, in so doing, store rotational energy rather than passing it to the wheels.
i think the problem with flexible drive shaft is even if you keep it straight, it will still twist on its axis when the force on the engine side is higher than the force on the other end (ie: any time you are accelerating)... as the torque on the engine side decreases in relation to the other end, it allows the shaft to untwist but if you let off the throttle and an engine braking effect occurs, you will have the equal, opposite effect where if over-twisted, it will bind the other way. the twist will be the worst when the difference in those rotational forces is the greatest and to prevent catastrophic failure, it would have to be able to lock at some point prior to the failure of the flexible components.
I have an idea for a flexable driveshaft that WONT break. I would love to see a driveshaft made of all u joints. Like take 2 of the 4 bolt flange yoke peices. With the 2 ears for half the ujoint, and bolt together back to back. Get like 4 or 5 of these. And u joint connecting. Keep doing this untill drive shaft is proper length. Now you have driveshaft made of like 30 u joints. No actualy shaft This could work! Just make sure to shout me out Cody Stephens
I don't think that the cold is doing you any justice either, rubber gets really brittle the colder it gets, you should try this in summer when the temperature is warmer. Great video as always guys.
For your next video experiment try removing the timing belt while the engine is running and then open it and show the damage. I wonder what will happen.
When you say "prop shaft" I am expecting to see a boat. The word used where I am from is "drive shaft". That's a very small quibble. Otherwise, the content from this channel is fantastic!
What would a flexible drive shaft be beneficial for at all? Less initial shock to the torque converter? Cant think of any good that might come of this at all.. like using a super long antenna for local radio…
Try making a driveshaft from a bunch of U-joints or CV joints. Also try to use the CV half shafts from a front wheel drive car to make a driveshaft for a rear wheel drive car.
That's a lot of drive train loading. This would probably work better with short shaft sections joined by a few elastic couplings. The torsional loads on the coupling-only shaft will pretty much always lead to failure, plus it has some terrible harmonics that would grenade the whole thing once you're up to speed anyways.
Weird thought and likely would not work but find someone that has a 3 D printer and have them make you a prop shaft. You might have to print it in 2 or 3 parts and bolt the parts together. But that way you could put a couple of the rubber parts you used in this build maybe between each printed section and make a hybrid rubber shaft to cut vibration. By printing your own shaft you could also add any support to the inside of the shaft for strength and then just count on the rubber spacers for fles.
10:48 My face when throwing in 5th gear high in my Nuffield 4/65 tractor and chain weight is over come by centrifugal force, slapping fenders every now and then. Cant really tighten/shorten them as those need to fit new tires as well and all of the adjustment is spent already.
So I'm kinda confused what's the purpose of having a flexible cupling drive shaft? It would seem it takes away the effeiency because the energy isn't directed like in a stiff two part solid shafts, and also vibrating.
This channel has given me an odd sort of respect for these old Ladas. Growing up in the tail end of the cold war era, the general picture that was painted of anything Soviet was that it was crude and primitive. Now in the information age, you can clearly see it was not, and in many ways the tech was superior to western stuff. A lot of stuff on those cars seems to be designed for repairability, instead of the planned obsolescence we got.
Should weld the center pipe from the engine side and leave it loose on the rear diff and add another center prop bearing as the thing was jumping around like madd
You're so close with the steel pipe in the middle. It needs to be full length but floating on bearings or otherwise unable to transmit torque. Then you stack up the flexible couplings along the length so that they are transmitting the torque but see no bending forces.
In reply to the suggestion for a torque converter coupled to a manual transmission: That was done with a degree of success about 65 years ago by Chrysler. They called it "Hi-drive" and I owned a 1954 Plymouth with that system. You could drive it the same as any manual transmission or leave it in second or third gear and drive it like an automatic transmission. It was pretty sluggish starting off in third gear, very much like my 1949 Buick with a Dynaflow transmission, which normally ran in direct drive, using only the torque converter without changing gears.
I got one sugestion. Making a car from Army of darkness movie. Powered of steam oldsmobile :) ( Ok Lada will be ok ) With steam cylinders on rear axle ( or equivalent... ) and big propeller on the front.
Can you make a Lada jump several feet in the air, while driving, without a ramp..? like Kitt in Knight Rider. Maybe by using compressed springs and a release trigger.?
The rubber joints would probably last if they has fiber cord mixed throughout like tire side walls. They can't take the twisting because they are straight rubber only. Wobble isn't the problem.
can be done but it will act as a rope when its spun , slinging around in a circle , if there not tied on both ends it will pull itself out of the slipjoint in the gearbox
it may not work here on shaft, but seems it is kind of "good" for using as vertebrate of robot? stiff but flexable with rotation less than a full circle.
I love watch stuff like this and the boyz that work doing this stuff are becoming expert repair men, there is nothing you all can not do.. because of all the silly ideas all you guys know what works and don't work.
Garage 54, testing things we know won't work and proving they don't work. That's why we love them.
The quickest “hey there fellas” in history.
Foreal i hit rewind hahaha
FELLAS 👁👄👁
I thought it was an editing error.
I guess you could say he was... *RUSSIAN 😎😎😎*
Hahaha 10x speed
Comment from an old Certified Master Technician:
The metal band around the circumference of a new flexible coupling is there to facilitate installation.
The coupling is intended to be somewhat compressed when in use and if the metal band is removed before the coupling is installed, the bolts don't align with the bolt holes in the metal components of the propshaft.
I'm guessing you're from the US?
@@wtfiswiththosehandles Yup
@@wtfiswiththosehandles Guessing commentor is from Uganda.
You need to take 2 steel tubes - weld one end of each to each U joint. Size them so they have a slip fit near the center. This is to keep whatever you use for the flexible drive in a straight line centered on the axis of rotation.
sounds good and maybe thread wire rope and crimp furels on the end instead of bolts
the drive shaft spins quite fast... even a small imbalance would result in vibrations which would eventually destroy the whole thing
I think just a tube sitting inside the couplers and not attached on either end would keep it straight
It twisted and pulled in half because it's like a giant rubber band they just kept winding it up and winding it up and eventually it yanked itself apart
GM had a flexible driveshaft in the 1960s, basically a big braided steel cable, I say try that next.
Common in cars like the Pontiac Tempest. It was like you said, a large steel cable, but within a tube. Think a lower-end weed-whacker. The cutter head is connected to the clutch via such a shaft. Especially those crappy curved ones.
@@Cammi_Rosalie the professional echo trimmers actually use flexible shafts in a straight shaft. It's for reduced vibration.
I love 2atching stuff like this these Boyz can put anything together by learning how to put silly stuff together genesis
@@Cammi_Rosalie Pontiac Tempest drive shaft was solid steel , Not cable. It had a support bearing in the middle that made it run in a slight curve.
Another comment from the old Master Technician:
The GM driveshaft to which you refer was designed much like an oversized speedometer cable and operated within an enclosed housing, which retained the rotating component so that rotated about it's longitudinal center of mass
It appears to me that some of the Garage 54 projects are intended to fail to make the show more interesting.
Nothing wrong with that, I enjoy the show
Incidentally, I worked for GM for a half century ago before moving on to more interesting work.
He is the only one that can do anything that comes to mind no matter how impossible or weird
No he definitely isn't. There are tons of people who can do anything that comes to their mind. You can too if you out the internet away and start foing actual stuff. They just don't have a utube channel... There is a huge, big giant world out there full of everything you can imagine outside of the internet.
yes we are not worthy of such genius. be full of thanks, yes be very full.
Has he made a engine run on compressed air?
@@mikeznel6048 ok boomer
I'm always amazed by the production quality and of course the astounding translation of BMIRussian. Thanks for all of your crazy tests and amazing stuff!
he does a great job translating and getting across the emotion and personality its great.
Here's a funny story: for whatever reason instead of "flexible couplings" I used the term "uni-joints". On Friday night I was uploading the video and noticed my mistake, had to sit down and re-dub every phrase where I used the term "uni-joint"...( I don't know where my head was, honestly, must've resulted from me taking in so much holiday spirit (scotch, bourbon).
@@SwapBlogRU I’ve watched a lot of Garage 54 videos in the past. Lately I’ve seen the American version pop up so I’ve been watching it. You make a lot of mistakes surprisingly bratishka. The only accuracy you really have is during his marketing speeches. Most the time you don’t include what he really says which for us Russians is kinda annoying ya know? Just let the American people know what he’s really saying! Лучше честно…чем обманывать. Сволочь Скотина))
@@maxboya даже не хочу это комментировать. Ты явно не в своём уме, ещё и хамло.
@@SwapBlogRU У тебя есть только Одна работа 🤷🏼♂️ Не плачь. Just do your commentary like you’re supposed too and I won’t be giving you such a hard time about it. If you can’t translate what he says entirely than what is even the point. To all these Americans who only speak English yeah they don’t know. But for someone who speaks six languages, I can’t stand people who deceive with translation. My BIGGEST pet peeve. Эта работа братан не так трудно🤣
Would you consider making a prop shaft from concrete, reinforced with a rebar center?
Wouldn't that be a regular drive shaft with more weight on it?
Keep up the great work. I love your channel. I've literally watched you grow over the years. I was an early subscriber. Here's an idea i have for an experiment. Change the oil on a running engine.
Y'all are awesome I love seeing everything that you guys do great content
Much love from Tulia Texas out on the farm 🚜
Can you weld two motorcycles or dirtbikes together with a seat in the middle to make like a gokart / quad bike
Years ago i did a miniature version on an rc rock crawler, i was waiting for a new one and had some 1/8 or maybe smaller aircraft cable ties with couplers on the end, after looping a few together the driving was interesting.. especially given it was 4x4, the cable would start to twist up and then unleash a fury of wheel spin when it broke traction, quite interesting
Major car companies did a lot of research and development on propeller-shafts to get things right. You are ambitious I give you that ! Bravo
They should take some of the crazy stuff they make to other shops for "repairs". I'd love to see some unsuspecting reactions to their inventions.
Didn't they do that like 2years ago I think they did
YES! LOL
@@UPsideDOWNworld321 and the reaction was cool.
It wound up like a torsional spring and made the car roll back when he disengaged the clutch.
This is such a brilliant channel!
Well, very interesting experiments, what if two gear boxes one automatic & second manual (In Rear Wheel drive setup) are connected together, what will be the output how it will behave? Means if manual gear box is added to automatic vehicle before the propeller shaft?
What you need is Lada snow blower / ice scracher to get those roads ok
Back in the day GM had an experimental drive shaft that was spring steel inside a torque tube that drove the rear tires, the idea was that it made for a smoother ride. It helps reduce vibrations.
I guess that's kinda similar to the springs at the center of clutches. They probably just took the springiness from the driveshaft and moved it to the clutch for cost savings. Older Porsches use rubber pucks in the middle of their clutches in place of the springs for the same purpose.
Working on your garage... Dream come true... Greetings from UK
I will always remenber the first time I replaced one of these coupling on Hillman Imp. The first thing I did was flipped off the steel clamp holding it in compression a big mistake I should had have fitted it first then removed the clamp.
This could work, the trick would be to stop the bolts twisting inline with the direction of torque, as it puts stress on the rubber couplers in a way they aren't designed to handle. If you had a steel plate between each of the couplers and had the joining bolts welded to it, that would keep them more inline and only apply force to the couplers in the direction they are meant to operate. Same concept as the plates that bolt either side to the existing coupler in most driveshafts. Hopefully that makes sense, would be great to see you do a revised video because I think it would work. Keep up the good work!
Replace propshaft with chain, like first cars and trucks from beginning of 20th century.
Put a bearing on the center on the guide rod and weld it on both ends. The guide rod will now fully support the shaft but won't transmit torque. You'll need a 2 piece guide rod with 2 bearings and a small rod to insert in the bearings. That should help keep it together and make this idea more viable.
as you put a load on the rear wheels, its going to put a load on the driveshaft. the moment the tires hit the snow it couldn't take the torque so it starting to twist. if you were to accelerate very slowly, then you wouldn't have as much of a problem. you probably wouldn't move very much on the snow, never mind an incline, but it looks like it kind of worked lol. going faster killed it for sure.
replace every other elastic segment with a metal plate of the same dimensions, that should prevent the crooked twisting going on but still remain flexible, reducing unnecessary stress and improving durability
For this to work the threaded steel rods need to run the full length through each hole in the flex disks.
Somewhat like a cage driveshaft.
A strong crankshaft welded as a segment of drive shaft as a type of flywheel would be really cool to watch.
What happens if you fill the radiator with petrol?
Or with engine oil itself
You'll get petrol deposits on the radiator and the pipes and that will affect the cooling.
@@robertinferno7862 nothing, it may leave some deposits from the additives and eventually eat through the rubber after sitting for a longtime...
The vapors are very dangerous, so if the fumes accumulate in the engine bay, a spark can easily cause an explosion.
Nobody would do this, as it's pointless and extremely dangerous.
Hello G54! Happy New Year! Hoping Christmas was good for you and your families.
The best part of this episode was the extra voice. That was hilarious.
Do it with rebar as a drive shaft… see how big you have to go before it’s useful. Looking forward to seeing the smaller ones bend.
Try using old heavy conveyor belting, and punch out the coupling of that. Will work, you just make them like the flexible ones, with 6 holes in a hexagon, and join up 3 per side. The fabric in the belt will stop it from tearing like the soft rubber couplings. Old belt should be easy to get from any local plant that handles bulk stuff, like coal or iron ore, or from any mill.
Have you tried chain for a prop shaft
This experiment showed us the importance of "torsional rigidity" :) Great video as always.
A strong crankshaft welded as a segment of drive shaft would be really cool to watch.
I wonder if it would act as a flywheel as it is a counter weighted shaft.🤔
"Just a minute lads... I've got an idea..."! (Michael Caine - last line in the film, The Italian Job). Here's my idea: how about 'Rubber in Torsion' as invented by Sir Alex Moulton of Bradford-on-Avon who also did lots of English suspension systems:- Mini, 1100/1300, Gipsy, Maxi, etc etc (oh, and Indispension for trailers and caravans). 2 tubes, one inside the other and bonded to each other internally with rubber. One tube is held solid and the other has the variable force applied to it. In suspension systems this provides a variable spring.
Your design suggestion is viable and has used in vehicle driveshafts.
There were problems in some applications with resonant torsional vibrations however.
@@philschaad6693 I agree that frequency dependent resonances would likely be problematic. Garage 54 certainly had some of these 'vibrations' in the video, especially the first two examples!! Full marks though for Content and Star Quality. To quote Frank Sinatra - I Did It My Way. Thought? I wonder if Vlad could be persuaded to sing this on the channel - in Russian!
I think you should use a big spring, could be funny when it release the energy after the initial torsion
That's the problem with the whole implementation. Basically, as soon as the rear wheels hit any resistance, the propshaft starts storing torsional energy like winding a spring. At some point, one end or the other (usually the wheels) loses friction and the spring unwinds. Moreover, the release of energy from the spring is in the opposite direction of the original torsion, so the free end would spin backwards.
I imagine that if you tried to launch the car by holding the brake while revving the engine, you'd actually take off backwards when you let off the brake.
They did that a while ago 😉.
He totally explained that at the beginning of the video.
@@killerdinamo08 perhaps that video is worth translating?
@@SwapBlogRU Write them a letter 😉.
BIG THUMBS UP FOR TRYING IT . I DIDN'T KNOW WHAT WOULD HAPPEN . THANKS GUYS
Father did this with the water boiler … 1986 . Man ! This brings back memories! Ty !
i enjoy your videos ,its entertaining in this messed up world ,thanks
You guys are so crazy love watching your channel
suggestion: make a direct connection gearbox with the clutch on the wheels
I spit my beer when that poor thing gave up.
Fricken hilarious.
The problem is that while the goal is flexible, you need to have taughtness and probably a guide tunnel to reduce vibration. Most of all, you need a material which is not going to twist and, in so doing, store rotational energy rather than passing it to the wheels.
i think the problem with flexible drive shaft is even if you keep it straight, it will still twist on its axis when the force on the engine side is higher than the force on the other end (ie: any time you are accelerating)... as the torque on the engine side decreases in relation to the other end, it allows the shaft to untwist but if you let off the throttle and an engine braking effect occurs, you will have the equal, opposite effect where if over-twisted, it will bind the other way. the twist will be the worst when the difference in those rotational forces is the greatest and to prevent catastrophic failure, it would have to be able to lock at some point prior to the failure of the flexible components.
Props to the Garage 54 guys. :)
Love that it ripped loose the brakes pipe !!
HaHa‼️
You guys have too much fun.
I have an idea for a flexable driveshaft that WONT break.
I would love to see a driveshaft made of all u joints. Like take 2 of the 4 bolt flange yoke peices. With the 2 ears for half the ujoint, and bolt together back to back. Get like 4 or 5 of these. And u joint connecting. Keep doing this untill drive shaft is proper length.
Now you have driveshaft made of like 30 u joints. No actualy shaft
This could work!
Just make sure to shout me out Cody Stephens
Vlad's cringing expression was hilarious 😂.
Next do a 2WD Lada, but 1 front wheel drive, 1 rear wheel drive
I don't think that the cold is doing you any justice either, rubber gets really brittle the colder it gets, you should try this in summer when the temperature is warmer.
Great video as always guys.
I'm learning a lot about cars watching you guys screw around lol
You could try leaf springs.... lengthwise.......
For your next video experiment try removing the timing belt while the engine is running and then open it and show the damage. I wonder what will happen.
I would like to see how fast you can spin the input shaft of the of the speedometer before it explodes. Maybe use a blender motor or something.
When you say "prop shaft" I am expecting to see a boat. The word used where I am from is "drive shaft". That's a very small quibble. Otherwise, the content from this channel is fantastic!
Driveshaft, driving shaft, prop shaft, tail shaft, Cardan shaft are all the same thing.
Cars don't use uni joints with the rubber couplings as the coupling is the uni joint.
What would a flexible drive shaft be beneficial for at all? Less initial shock to the torque converter? Cant think of any good that might come of this at all.. like using a super long antenna for local radio…
torque conveter?on a lada?
Use some steel cable!! A thick one match the diameter and weld directly to the output shaft and yoke,
Try making a driveshaft from a bunch of U-joints or CV joints. Also try to use the CV half shafts from a front wheel drive car to make a driveshaft for a rear wheel drive car.
This is my latest subscription, carry on fellas! 🤣👍🇨🇦
That's a lot of drive train loading. This would probably work better with short shaft sections joined by a few elastic couplings. The torsional loads on the coupling-only shaft will pretty much always lead to failure, plus it has some terrible harmonics that would grenade the whole thing once you're up to speed anyways.
Mount two springs on two flat plates and transfer power through the springs to the rear wheels?
A glass driveshaft lol. Are there any super toughened types of glass out there in rod format?
There was a twin engine VW beetle with a flexible coupler linking the engines.
Make an oversized speedo cable using wire rope, love the work gent's
Do you ship to the UK?
I believe they can send to the moon... I'm interesting too.
Weird thought and likely would not work but find someone that has a 3 D printer and have them make you a prop shaft. You might have to print it in 2 or 3 parts and bolt the parts together. But that way you could put a couple of the rubber parts you used in this build maybe between each printed section and make a hybrid rubber shaft to cut vibration. By printing your own shaft you could also add any support to the inside of the shaft for strength and then just count on the rubber spacers for fles.
10:48 My face when throwing in 5th gear high in my Nuffield 4/65 tractor and chain weight is over come by centrifugal force, slapping fenders every now and then. Cant really tighten/shorten them as those need to fit new tires as well and all of the adjustment is spent already.
So I'm kinda confused what's the purpose of having a flexible cupling drive shaft? It would seem it takes away the effeiency because the energy isn't directed like in a stiff two part solid shafts, and also vibrating.
try a woven wire braid. inside of another wire braid keep going till u have same thickness as a normal drive shaft?
This channel has given me an odd sort of respect for these old Ladas. Growing up in the tail end of the cold war era, the general picture that was painted of anything Soviet was that it was crude and primitive. Now in the information age, you can clearly see it was not, and in many ways the tech was superior to western stuff. A lot of stuff on those cars seems to be designed for repairability, instead of the planned obsolescence we got.
Should weld the center pipe from the engine side and leave it loose on the rear diff and add another center prop bearing as the thing was jumping around like madd
You're so close with the steel pipe in the middle. It needs to be full length but floating on bearings or otherwise unable to transmit torque. Then you stack up the flexible couplings along the length so that they are transmitting the torque but see no bending forces.
This guy’s shenanigans never cease to amaze me! Lmfao 👋😂👍love it!
Can you polish a brake disc to mirror finish and then try if its work to stop a car
This was cool idea keep up the great work
What about adding a torque converter alongside manual transmission?
In reply to the suggestion for a torque converter coupled to a manual transmission:
That was done with a degree of success about 65 years ago by Chrysler.
They called it "Hi-drive" and I owned a 1954 Plymouth with that system.
You could drive it the same as any manual transmission or leave it in second or third gear and drive it like an automatic transmission.
It was pretty sluggish starting off in third gear, very much like my 1949 Buick with a Dynaflow transmission, which normally ran in direct drive, using only the torque converter without changing gears.
I got one sugestion. Making a car from Army of darkness movie. Powered of steam oldsmobile :) ( Ok Lada will be ok ) With steam cylinders on rear axle ( or equivalent... ) and big propeller on the front.
Make a propshaft made from tires that have been cut, then twisted and tightly bound with heavy duty clamps.
The centrifugal force probably is to great. With the flexing of the shaft you create flutter due to inbalance and/or to much weight
Can you make a Lada jump several feet in the air, while driving, without a ramp..? like Kitt in Knight Rider.
Maybe by using compressed springs and a release trigger.?
The rubber joints would probably last if they has fiber cord mixed throughout like tire side walls. They can't take the twisting because they are straight rubber only. Wobble isn't the problem.
You could try smaller and smaller diameter shafts and see how small you can go without breaking or bending.
Build a prop shaft out of springs, weld a bunch of coil springs together
Try it by sleeving one pipe in the other pipe so they can move inside each other, maybe that will keep them center?
You Men are constantly coming up with the BEST Videos on the wwweb👏👏👏👏👏😀🎇🎆🎊🎉
can be done but it will act as a rope when its spun , slinging around in a circle , if there not tied on both ends it will pull itself out of the slipjoint in the gearbox
How well would a 3D printed prop shaft?
it may not work here on shaft, but seems it is kind of "good" for using as vertebrate of robot? stiff but flexable with rotation less than a full circle.
Have we tried a concrete propshaft yet? You could do one reinforced and not.
Try to use break disc with 4 pads to replace the clutch
I laughed so hard when that first one broke 🤣
for extra smooth gear-changes ? :)
I love watch stuff like this and the boyz that work doing this stuff are becoming expert repair men, there is nothing you all can not do.. because of all the silly ideas all you guys know what works and don't work.
Merry Christmas ☃️🎄 ☃️
What about several u-joints?
Try some heavy chain, enough tension to not sag but still be loose.
LoL you guys are wild. Love your videos
Disconect sensors and bridge the wires so the ecu would think the sensors are there and working properly