Boosting compression with copper (Tik Tok engine repair on steroids)
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2022
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In this episode we test another popular myth and see whether there's something to it.
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Chemist here, what you guys did was not adding copper, you swapped the Iron or aluminum metal with the copper, the copper sulfate, which I assume you used here, reacts to form Aluminum/Iron Sulfate which goes out in the water, while the copper metal deposits itself. Copper is denser which means you'd actually be losing width technically, and it wouldn't plate evenly, I bet you'd have a lot of copper dust falling off since it doesn't bond on quite well. The correct/better way to do the plating is to get a different ionic salt, like Iron Sulfate, something that is sturdy and wouldn't react with the metal, and use electrolysis, by putting a positive electrode in the solution, and connect the negative electrode to the engine block. I bet you'd get significantly better results that way. An efficient way to do this is to seal up the bottom of each bore and put a positive electrode suspended in the middle, preferably graphite, like found in a pencil, and connect the negative terminal of the power source to the block, then fill the bore with the Iron sulfate, this will allow the iron in the iron sulfate solution to move towards the surface and deposit itself due to the electric charge, you can use a full car battery as a power source here. Immediately after being done, Id say its safe to do so when the battery is low or after an hour, you can pour out the solution quickly and test the new cylinder. If you want a better visual you can use a sulfate of a different metal with a nicer color so long that it doesn't react with the iron without electricity. I really hope to see this method in a future video as it makes a lot of sense chemistry wise on paper. I hope the translator can pass this message onto you!
I don't understand a single word but its a lot of text so I agree.
Chrome plating would be the best method as it is extremely wear resistant. But I don't know if that makes sense for combustion engines.
@@mikeyprice7663 expensive and you won't get much thickness, also chrome is resistant to wearing out from weather and water, not friction unfortunately. What we saw in this video wasn't plating, it was more like replacing the top layer. I think any sort of plating will make a good difference but it'll depend on thickness and durability of the material. Cost is definitely a big factor so iron was my best thought for cost effectiveness and to prove a point :)
@@lertu6268 Chrome is DEFINITELY RESISTANT TO FRICTION. Did you ever install Chrome piston rings in an engine ? How about a Chrome lined rifle bore ?
@@NoWr2Run Chrome rings 😂 would turn the cylinder into a vacuum pump! Lol
Need to get a gauge that reads lower than 100, checking less than 20 psi on a 0-500 gauge will always look like zero.
0-500psi range gauge is way too much for make a precise measurement. You should use 0-100psi gauge.
The idea of nickel plating worn pistons, crank journals & camshafts with the purpose of filling out the worn clearances has always tickled my brain.
Nickel plated pistons do exist. The plating helps against microwelding on the rings that causes ring sticking and also reduce the chance of "smelting" on the crown by actually rendering the surface harder than the base aluminum to an extent
Quite common to have racing crankshaft journals chrome plated back in the day.
In steam engines, its quite common for folks to "brass" off worn parts to stave off failure, if done right brassed off parts could gain several microns and have heard the term used by Lambretta owners who brassed stuff off to prevent heatseizing as the brassing would respond well to 2t oiling. Brassing is done today by intense heat rubbed over with a brass wire brush but back in the day a simple bar stock of good brass rubbed over a heated area produced a decent "plating" whether it worked or not is another debate lol
You have no idea what your saying
That's how you make it brass colored, not decently brass plated lol.
No i think youre thinking of leading a car.. they used to do that stuff for body work. Heat up the metal panals and rub lead, let it melt and drip then shave it down.. before bondo i guess.. only treating ive heard of old motors was electro plating, like on old steamers, locomotives n such.. if you just heat steel or aluminum and rub brass on it the stuff wont stick. Just like trying to solder aluminum. The lead content in the solder has to be high in order to stick and brass has just a little tin in it.. dunno.. i say nay but ill believe ya i guess.. theres just certain temps and thin ranges where certain stuff will adhere to other certain stuff.. if youve ever tried to braze aluminum with the special rods then youd know that you got a window before the aluminum will just melt and that window is short and right at that point..
@@Z-Ack damn near everything you said was correct to my knowledge. But you can absolutely heat steal and rub brass off on it. It’s a very common trick for black smiths and knife makers.
Lol sounds more like sanding, it'll definitely leave a brass color but at what cost haha
We have an additive in the USA called "Restore" that works on a simular principle. Every time ive seen it reviewed it did add compression. "Project Farm" is a youtube channel that has a video on it.
Added a bottle of that stuff to my old 97 Volvo S70 T5 with 370k miles. Significantly reduced boost lag and gave me a fairly good boost in overall power, I could actually get it to spin tires in first gear lol. Seemed to last past the following oil change, as well.
@@jd7896 my 98 T5 is approaching 350k. She's definitely not as strong as she used to be. Might have to try Restore. Still roasts tires in first, second in the wet.
@@johndeerekid167 My 1999 Volvo V70R has 331K miles/534K kilometers on the clock. On dry tarmac 225 Michelin tires are BARELY holding it in check. With a high tendency to set traction control on ;-) . Yet I'm still assembling a brand new engine under the stairs. As a reserve, since they don't make them any longer.
I watched some videos on it and I'm eager to try that stuff. Unfortunately there is no way to buy it in Europe.
I tried looking at these package forwarders but they are super expensive to ship a couple bottles to Austria.
I also want to try out seafoam on some of my cars and tractors but I can't get that either.. What a shame
@@schwuzi Serwus, same for me here in Austria. shipping and tax is not worth it
I think the removal of the rings did more for the compression than anything, I have had lawnmower engines, that smoked, the compression was low, I removed the rings cleaned everything with scotch bright pads, including the bore! It ran like new, even with the old rings, it got it's compression back, stopped smoking, I think I de glazed the bore with 220 or 400 grit sand paper, I just remember using a lot of that grit paper, and that is what I had them. 👍 Not too bad, I don't know how long it lasted!
NICE JOB.
Most likely 400, 220 grit would hurt the bore pretty bad. Nice job though 😉.
240 is a common grit for a cylinder hone. They go down to 120.
the range of that oil pressure gauge is way to large, 0-500 psi is way to much, he needs one that is at least 0-100 or less.
but 0 =0
@@MrRichard57000 and 0 on a 0-500 gauge might actually be 10 or 15psi. The gauges range is too large to be responsive to such small numbers.
@@MrRichard57000 not necessairly ;)
@@Turbowagon at idle IT reads 0....could be 0.1 bar,but still to low.you need at least 1bar at 900 rpm,IT was way under that...
@@MrRichard57000 gauges are generally most accurate in the center of its range.
I'm guessing it will help a little, but only until the copper wears off, which probably won't be very long.
Does electro plating work on engine components,
@@daniesalex7073 electro plating works on anything that can conduct electricity man.. Is it appropriate? thats a better question. Nikasil plating for engine cylinders works, but is very touchy and requires multiple steps in a clean-room setting. it improves wear characteristics of the cylinder wall, by leaving a hard plate deposit through electroplate. You could electroplate any metal onto another, but you would have to prepare the surface thoroughly.
@@imakedookie I think it's an etch process that exposes silica and nickel in the metal by eating away the surface.
Nickel electroplating is quite easy to do
It helps to use it about once a year as a preventive maintenance additive.
Garage 54. please put a turbo charger where the water pump goes and try to cool the engine with air instead of coolant.
The air is going to be extremely hot because its been compressed. Will overheat in seconds
They would need to find a way to make it cold air. The turbo would eventually get hot and just push hot air through. They would need an inter cooler they could load with ice
Internals of the block and head is smooth, heat transfer will be minimal.
@@MrRock861261 ok and
You could route the AC to blow into the water pump?
I just remember my Uncle Melvin had a 47-52 GMC in-line 6, 226 or 228 cu.in. This was the era that nothing was thrown away, you repaired it. They would take the rods out and pour a babbit alloy for the new bearing. It seems to be about the same as you have done, just a different procedure. The babbitt was lead, tin, and copper!
I heard about those babbit bearings from an old school mechanic years ago. Now days everyone just blows em up and buy another car from dealer, same with their phones and everything else.
Probably the increased compression and the slightly better oil pressure in the start was due to the fresh engine oil😅.
Nice job thou you guy's,keep it up!
So, 107% success on raising the compression, but 0% on raising oil pressure. That averages to, what , 53.5% overall success. ☹️
That oil pressure gauge is on a scale of 0-500 psi....that's bonkers, no wonder it doesn't read at idle
@@SteveEh That and most likely fault for the low oil pressure is from a worn oil pump which I did not see them copper coat. Regardless this method is half assed patchwork at best that I could only even remotely understand being used on certain parts in situations where there is literally NO parts availability anymore or is extremely cost prohibitive.
@@LKN117 right. ordered the part out to east bubble fuck and its wrong. time to assemble and hobble it to its purpose
@@LKN117 Vlad did mention the oil pump was coated, but that doesn't really matter. For all the good that did, they would have been better off with a couple of coats of copper spray paint.
You misunderstand the 107%, its a racing term that comes from the old 107% rule in Formula 1among others. It simply mean that youre within the acceptable bracket with a qualifying time that is max 107% of the fastest time. 105% is better, 108% is failure, 101% is awesome. Also Vlad uses the term incorrectly some times.
Man I love these guys, they are always coming up with the best experiments. Here's to many more episodes! 🍻
Similar to how restore and other type oil additives work. They have copper powder in them. It actually works fairly well.
But wont the oil filter crab them, specially if its used filter since more crap there is on the filter smaller and smaller stuff is will catch but this comes with expense of flow?
@@Hellsong89 nope. They are very very tiny.
Actually it uses lead and other additives.
@@madjimms lead would be in other additives but it is 60% copper and 40% lead. Roughly speaking.
4:32 "On a Lada motor, this would warrant a rebuild." 😂😂
There's a product in the USA that's called "Restore", it have micro particles of brass in a base stock oil mix that you add to the engine crank case... I've used in with great long lasting success (Over 150k miles)in engines to bring up the compression and oil psi..
You should do an experiment on the lada oil pump by adding washers to the relief valve spring to see how high you can get the oil pressure.
You don't want high oil pressure. If the pressure is to high the oil coming out of the oiling holes will push the crankshaft into the other bearing. You want the oil to go all the way around the part needed to be lubricated.
By now these guys must've become an official Lada partner, theres no way an opportunity like that would slip the company by.
Hell, if the russian government is serious and really does want to make a new Moskwich car, they should ask Garage 54 to come up with something!
They should
@@kingdom_lights Well no, the factory lines for tanks are frozen by a lack of parts from abroad, all they can do is cannibalize other tanks for spares.
Though a recent interview with someone from the industry said that "Its impossible to build a Moskwich from scratch, we need foreign help with that" hence my comment.
@@DarkestVampire92 pretty sure they get the parts from China,middle East or India only the western countries blocked Russia you still have 60% of the world population
@@DarkestVampire92 "the factory lines for tanks are frozen by a lack of parts from abroad" Which was already a propaganda lie two Months ago. Same with, "they will run out of missiles soon". That aged well, they are still happily calibrating targets, they also did not starve, freeze to death or lose. Who exactly is "someone from the industry"?
@Justin Loveday That's sadly how it is.
In America they have a product called "Engine Restore & Lubricant". You can buy it at Walmart or any typical automotive store. It has a superfine copper in it. I have used it with good results!
Project Farm tried it on his old tractor. He was very impressed with its results. Now he uses it once a year now as a preventive maintenance to keep his cylinder compression up.
Add some nickel, beryllium and silica, for durability. 🤣
This guy is so much entertaining and educational. I love this guy. Respect!!!
That was a very informative experiment. Thank you.
I think it'll help,temporarily but as copper is so soft the effect will be short lived. I thought it was going to be an engine additive as if u take it apart to copper treat it u might as well rebuild it
Would be a good test to put it in a car and drive it round a track for several miles or kilometres, see how long the copper layer lasts and keeps the compression up, or not...
Those additives (a mechanic in a can) advertising more power and better mileage is just modern day snake oil. You have just proved that.
Maybe try RVS, it's a Finnish product that's designed to do what the copper coating here is supposed to do.
Don't even need to disassemble the engine, just add it into the oil as per the instructions.
Seen it revive some worn engines, smoothing out compression across cylinder and in my previous car it completely muffled lifter tick when cold.
Worn out engines run far into the state of self destruction until something else fails and leaves the car undrivable yet the engine can still run.
Old engines. New ones just limp around for electrical hiccups
Man I never see engines sit at 0psi oil pressure that is crazy... the one I am currently running has 276k miles, so about 445k km, and idles at 40psi
😁 me too man I never have 90% of the problems people complain about on engines... I also perform all scheduled maintenance before the last minute (I do mean all, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant, differentials, transfer cases, everything) and I replace parts when they just start looking worn - before they catastrophically fail.
248k miles on my 28 year old car, runs flawlessly, doesn't consume oil or leak it. Funny how that works.
something tragic happened to that engine to run 0 PSI
@@shoveI so you're telling me if you operate it as designed.... it doesn't break 🤔 we must in investigate this phenomenon
@@uberschnilthegreat22 it's not the first one they've had on this channel running but with 0psi at idle because yeah I agree it makes no sense at all. Even if it view out an internal seal somewhere there would still be SOMETHING above 0 youd think
I’m in an old S10 and when it’s cold it’s at 60PSI idle. Hot it’s about 25-30
Dont put new oil, compression and oil pressure will be affected. Either change oil before establishing a baseline, or reuse the old oil for testing. I understand that Bardahl want them to show their product but back when Bardahl sponsored Emerson Fittipaldi in Formula 1 Emerson didnt have to show that he topped up his F1 car from a Bardahl oil can, a small sticker on his helmet was enough. By the way, Ole Bardahl was a Norwegian immigrant to USA and was active in sponsoring small motorsport teams, Fittipaldi is famous as an F1 driver but the Fittipaldi Copasucar F1 team was small and not great.
Chrome plating adds a thin layer of chrome on parts, which is abrasion resistand and fairly hard. Could work maybe.
Love your videos
You're using a 500 PSI gauge for measuring oil pressure. You've got no way to tell what the actual oil pressure is at idle. You'll never be able to tell the difference between 0 and 30 PSI.
I don't even know what you'd have a 500 PSI gauge in the shop for.
Pressure gauge for low pressure hydraulics.
@@nicostenfors5690 I guess, but when's the last time you had to test the relief valve pressure on a power steering system? On the old Saginaw pumps you either just throw the whole pump away or take relief valve apart clean it and stick it back in. Never once have I had to measure or adjust it. In a more modern pump there's nothing serviceable on it.
"this is a great engine" proceeds to show how its wallered out haha
Ametek Engine Restore contains silver, copper to and I forget the third, but it is very similar to this idea, and IT WORKS.
wonder what a second coat would do after the initial run in with the first copper coating.
Make stone tires like Fred flintstone had
Cant get enough of this guy.
Awesome video, you guys are very cool !👍👍👍
What happen if you replace oil with fuel or other flammable liquid?
Can you bolt 2 I4's together at the base to make a flat-8?
it's so cool to see that something finally worked
I would like to see how bad all the different stop leak solutions are some of them look like you’re pouring cork right into the coolant which can’t be good on the very little clearance between cylinders in the coolant passageways are used to work at a part store and we sold more than we should of that stuff
With fuel prices going the way it is you should try turning a Lada into an EV.
The VAZ 2801 lada is an electric lada that's existed since the 70s
Fuel prices aren’t going up in Russia. Biden isn’t their leader.
Is it possible now that the compression and everything has gone up just to replace the oil pump with something newer?
I use Engine Restore in the US which is copper, silver and lead. It does work.
Man I haven't seen anybody try this trick in 30 years at least. It does sort of work. It's no cure-all but it can stretch the life of an old engine out. Then again, if you are doing a full teardown you might as well do a full rebuild. Why go through all the trouble to pull the engine just to leave the job half finished?
If you're broke but you happen to have all the stuff required lying around your garage LOL
@@metalface8515 Broke and with lots of time. Always been easier for me to by a new engine. Also by "new" I mean used from the scrap yard. Gotta love the interchangeability of American engines in the mid 20th century. I'm especially a fond of the four cylinder longitudinal configuration from the period. Front Wheel Drive is cool and all, but a pain to work on. Separating the engine and transaxle requires a delicacy I don't really possess.
There are piston coatings from a company cslled Top Line Coatings that was on Steve Morris channel and he had it applied to his pistons and those pistons showed no wear making 3 runs without realizing his oil pump belt came off. 4500 hp engine.
VLAD, I LOVE THE GHOST BUSTERS TEE!!!
Hey guy do you have access to a product called Slick-50 engine treatment would be curious to see those results. Thanks for the video
Do any of you know if a 78 000 kilometre lada engine 1500 needs a rebuild or it should be fine. It has a loose timing chain but I don't know how the kilometres affect the other parts of the engine
It didn't just spray you with something it's Happy to see you! 😂
I'd like to see some sort of diy zinc additive idea.
Did you coat the cam and crank bearings, both sides, plus the caps?
Would have been interesting to do multiple coats so it could better fill in the scratches.
Did you reuse the old oil or replace with fresh oil?
At time stamp 7:23 I am going to say that it should work. After coating with copper, it looked really good. I'm no mechanical genius but I think it will work. Atleast for a little while, maybe 15 to 20 minutes before it returns to it's worn state.
beautiful work
Now if you use electricity and plate rather than recombination plate it will be better. Same copper sulfate solution but it doesn’t strip iron to plate it
Years ago I used to buy a product that was lead and copper in a oil base ,you would do a oil change and add all the oil except one litre ,add the product to the litre of oil, warm up the engine the engine and on a fast idle add the mixture to the engine then take the car for a continuous drive for half an hour ,you had to read the instructions on the bottle so you didn't put to much in, if you added to much it may block the oil galleries, I used it on engine's year ago to help extend its life ,it would slow down or stop oil consumption and quite a noisy engine.
Could you try replacing the engine oil with graphite powder as it can be used as a lubricant in special applications
Nickel plating yes, copper ,no.Copper will wear off relatively fast, especially in cylinder bores.Judging by scratches and wear marks on bearing surfaces a rather heavy layer should be deposited.
I've seen stuff like this done before and it works but uts ultimately a bandaid. I guess it can work well if done periodically
Can you please install ball bearing in the crankshaft and camshaft?
Maybe oil pump is bad. Adding copper to oil bearings to increase oil pressure by reducing tolerances wont do anything if the pump its self is bad...
love your show
I think you should have tried to poor the copper in and let it run for 10 -20 min and let it copper all the components . then retest.
What is in the praktnyk box on the pegboard
Needed to copper coat the oil pump.. 😆
Maybe try making a piston with 6 or more piston rings? Try to get as much compression as possible
Soon this guys will do alchemy lol
I would not trust that oil pressure gauge. I would test it on a good running engine and see what it says. Having zero oil pressure, that engine would have been knocking.
It would be better to use a shorter hose too. More hose means more volume to build up pressure.
Should have run the engine with just several bottles of "restore" in it.
Paused @7:25.
I think it will result in some little bbs and flakes in the lower part of the engine, (oil pan) after running it a short time.
It should help the oil pressure until it clogs up the filter.
Compression could go up but not for long.
Worst case it locks up shortly after starting up.
My assumption (based on the product applied being some sort of goop containing finely-powdered copper, and not an electroless plating solution - methinks the label said something about "antiseptic", which to me hints at colloidal copper) was likewise that it would mainly end up in the filter. A filter dissection would have been informative.
Can you try to make rear engine front wheel drive?
What happened to screen size?
Full screen was alright LoL
I feel like the cam being coated could lead to lower or even zero compression with enough coating it... The cylinder walls could work for a few minutes, but the rings will strip that off fast.
Will it last ? Is there copper in the oil filter?
I have a v8 factory 5w-30 but there is 400k on the motor so I only use 5w-40 now and the engine runs better over all.
sure it will probably help, the real question is how long it will last.
I don't believe in miracles, but you folks, your a miracle. heh
another good one!
I use a product called " RESTORE " in my old 4.0 inline 6 cylinder Jeep every oil change. It raised the Compression back to normal & I can feel the difference but you have too use it every or every other oil change, It does wear off.
what about ceracoting or powdercoating or such?
I wonder if you can get some sort of Babbitt metal that you could paint on?
I would like to see engines run on Alkohol like in Brasil and what modification is necessary.
Trying to ask here as well, any CHEAP ideas (no rotors/calipers upgrade) to increase the efficiency (or pressure) in the vacuum brake booster? My brakes are weaker than those on most cars. It is normal for the model, but I wonder if there's anything that I can do. The actual brakes were reconditioned by me with great care for detail, all the rust removed, everything cleaned, all pistons changed, system flushed like crazy. I have read about higher friction pads, but I have no idea what to look for. And I figured there must be some way to increase the actual pressure being pumped into the lines, instead of doing it after the lines, by replacing calipers and rotors. Can I do anything good by removing the brake booster & pump, disassembling them and cleaning them really well? Or do I risk destroying them, if disassemble even is an option?
Thanks!
You need a bigger master cylinder piston bore. A larger master will push more fluid and pressure for the pedal travel as a smaller one. Same thing as when going from drums to all disk conversion on old cars, usually need a bigger master to have a good pedal. Less than a hundred dollars usually for a master cylinder so not too bad
I think it will work good until the customer leaves the driveway
You know I wonder if a titanium or some other harder metal would make more of a difference
I did a back to back comparison with an expensive copper based oil additive out of Australia, I knew the UK salesman for this product and he asked me to do some tests for his own satisfaction. The car tested was a Bentley V8 and the additive brought about a 15hp power loss and a rise in engine temperature. I also tried the product in a Ford final drive and did not find any benefits. A friend suffered a major engine issue on his Ford BDA race engine and ended up taking the additive manufacturer to court and winning. The product was later withdrawn and my friend the salesman walked away from the produce after the test I did..
Was it neways roil? I had a mate put it in his healthy engine, seemed to make no difference for starters, but it wore out quite quickly (gm v6 with less than 200,000 on it) i as a teen tried the liquid moly stuff in my subaru ea81 engine, followed the directions to a tee. The molybdenum ruined my oil pump within a week, lucky i had a guage, once i saw it dropping low at idle i removed the oil pump and saw how chewed up the gears and the side plates were, dumped the oil out and fitted a new oil pump, double changed the oil filter in the following week. 15 years and alot of abuse later its still running as good as it did before i put the additive in
People are often concerned with Pressure, You need to worry about Flow. Oil pressure is just measuring the restriction in the oil system. It does matter, but not as much as simply having oil flow.
I've been a mechanic and engine builder for around 25 years , and the rule of thumb on oil pressure is that you need 10 psi for every 1000 rpm the engine is turning.
Your oil pressure line wasn’t air bleed off , loosen gauge , start engine until you have oil coming out around the threads re-tighten up
If you want more compression, i would suggest adding gunpowder.
What is that copper treatment
I like your channel you guys do a lot of stuff I'd like to do but I don't have the funds or a garage .. you ever think about making a exhaust cannon to shoot marbles golf balls or even billiards ball's all while the vehicle is still drive able ?? Hope you guys can figure something out 🤯
Maybe experiment with thicker oil grades and show us again measurements of compression and oil pressure. Use a 5 bar oil pressure gauge though...
using 35bar gauge to read lada oil pressure at idle is funny
I wonder if the copper could just be poured into the cylinders thru the plug hole. Bottom stroke the cylinder, fill it up, let it sit a bit, the rotate to top stroke. IDK I don't think this is worth trying if you have to tear into the engine. Bore scope the cylinders to see what they look like!
Oil pressure according to manufacturer's specifications.
It will help. But I wonder how long it will last?
Still runs, songs good 👍