Hey! I just replaced my rear struts on a 2005 CRV using your video as my primary source. This the first work I have ever done on any car ever and I bought all my mechanics tools just for this. It went very well and even with parts and tools saved my $700. Thank you so so so much for taking the time to film, edit, and post this video. You’re awesome.
Hey Nicholas ... you're welcome and thanks! My video editor-in-chief and I want to make all our DIY videos as short, simple and straight forward as possible. You're post confirms what we're doing and is uplifting.
Awesome video knew nothing about doing this on a CRV did it for a friend and was able to get it done with no problem thanks to your video god bless you man
HEADS UP! It looks like in this video he had removed the rear CV axle which gives clearance to remove the rear strut. I didn't notice this until I was already half way through the repair. I could not remove the rear strut the way he did since the CV axle was in the way. My solution for the LEFT side: (1) Unlink the swaybar link (2) Detach the caliper and move it to the left of the strut (3) You should be able to wrestle the strut out to the left RIGHT side: (1) I was able to remove the strut without removing anything else but the top 2 nuts and bottom bolt of the strut, it was fairly easy to wrestle it out since this side doesn't have that giant box in the way. (2) HOWEVER I found I had to unlink the swaybar link AND the knuckle from the upper control arm to get the new strut lined up properly to install the bottom bolt. I did not have to remove the brake caliper for this side, although you mind as well grease the caliper pins while you're there. Just replaced both rear and front struts on my 03 CRV thanks to this channel's videos. Thanks a lot man!
Nice video. FYI, it is much easier to perform this procedure up on a lift without re-moving anything other than just the strut but again, most people do not have a lift so your method is a solid one. One suggestion for future videos, had I produced this video, I would have shown a side by side comparison between the OEM part and the KYB. The reason that I bring this up is because KYB for years always made a quality product and continues to make OEM products for many Japanese car companies but the OEM factory standard is usually better than the aftermarket even though both might be KYB in origin. KYB lately has moved much of its manufacturing to China and they have suffered quality control issues. A side by side comparison would have shown spring thickness and overall strut production, weight, metal thickness and piston & shaft sizing. The devil is in the details, not just in the name. Thanks again for a thoughtful video.
If you used a lift to bring the suspension to shoulder level, you would have to eventually move the vehicle to ground level to access the upper strut mount nuts inside the car (as though you did not use a lift at all)? Once lifted, you'd need to find a way to compress the lower control arm upward in order to disconnect the upper control rod from the knuckle (perhaps using a adjustable post jack). At that point, you can then remove the strut's lower mounting bolt. So basically, you're better off not using a lift at all unless the car's lift height isn't more than a foot off the ground? For your 2nd point, I find it hard to believe that KYB will provide replacement parts of different quality between the aftermarket consumer and the car manufacturer. But then again, anything is possible. The difference in part weight, metal thickness, etc. may reflect an upgrade of the part after KYB received feedback from the auto manufacturer. Perhaps a manufacturer's recall or consumer's unusually high warranty claims.
Just remove the three 10mm bolts holding the charcoal canister and support it. The strut will come right out. My bottom mount bolts were seized, so I had to cut it out and replace with a new bolt and nut.
So you're saying move the strut out of its cradle by moving it towards the center of the car? But first remove the charcoal canister to allow the strut to swing inward ... right?
Watched the video. That's another way of doing it. My preference is to avoid crawling under the car .... Twice. To remove bolts and to reinstall all on my back.
Great video ...thanks. also as I was watching all I could think is you forgot to use antiseize on all of the threads. It definitely helps on vehicles where salt is used in the winter :) ~Cheers
Thanks. Yes and no on the antiseize. I don't live by the coast or in the snow belt were's there's salt in the air and on the roads. Also Japanese nuts and bolts are zinc coated to prevent corrosion. But sometimes I do use it where there has been corrosion.
Just remove the two top bolts and the single one at the bottom and remove the whole assembly. Then slide in the new assembly and that’s all you gotta do. 3 bolts. Not sure why all the extra steps were shown. It’s much easier than this depicts.
Seized to where you were were just totally unable to loosen them, OR to just snap the bolts off? Assuming they're the bolts to the old part, I wouldn't have let that slow me down... If you weren't able to budge it, then you should really consider either 1.) looking up some wrench leverage techniques (pipe extensions to ratchet/wrench, hammer blows to break loose the first rotations, etc), 2.) Get stronger, 3,)Both. This is just one L, champ...im sure you'll be back on your game soon.. We'll be happy to unpause the status on your man card once you get this thing figured out 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Don't use a torque wrench with these larger nuts and bolts ... rather I tighten everything down with my impact tools. You can always add lock-tight on the threads if you're concerned that may get loose some day.
They were bad ? I have an o5 and some how when I passing but a bump or hole I hear 👂 like a cracking idk something like if coming from the back idk it’s could be a bad struck
Oil leakage around base of the strut stem ... rear end bounces around on rough roads ... when pushing down on the rear end and then letting go, the rebound is springy ... suspension bottoms out when encountering dips in the road then bounces around on the rebound... virtually no suspension resistance when pushing down on the rear end.
Those bolts came out way too easy, did you use penetrating fluid or just live outside the rust belt? Just curious if I'll need new flang bolts before I attempt this. Awesome video and thank you sir!
Is it necessary to preload the rear shock assemblies on this vehicle? I’m trying to help a friend, and on my Xterra, it’s recommended to preload the front shock assemblies. But I don’t know about the CR-V.
No need to touch the hub and remove the cables... just undo the bottom shock bolt and the two inner ones and with a small prybar on the base of the shocker mount, remove the unit complete... your way means you get all tangled up in the cables you have disturbed...
Out-of-round tire cannot be fixed regardless of the amount of remaining thread. Bent wheels can be fix but can be expensive ... you'll have to find a shop that does this type of repair. Bent CV axles aren't straighten ... just replaced.
Thanks for your comments. Don't know the torque specs. I just toque them down by feel and experience. Head bolts, on the other hand, you have to be very precise and I use a torque wrench.
I successfully changed mine! Question, can you do a video or point me where to look for the cruise control module location on my 2003 Honda CRV? Nothing I’m my Haynes... says go to dealer 🤦🏻♀️ I push the cruise button, which illuminates sometimes but no light on the dash and won’t set speed or anything. No cruise control lights on dash whatsoever.
Bro, nice video but I think you put wrong side towards the car. The spring end goes facing the gas tank, at 6:00 it is facing the wheel. Yeah, I know, it may be not a big deal but that's how original spring is installed...
@@hardlymovingpro According to service manual it does matter, i think the top mounting surface of the strut is slightly angled to compensate for offset between bottom and top vehicle mounting points. The original struts had a small hole in the top mounting surface which is suppose to go to the inboard side. I am not sure how to determine which side that is on replacements, but it seems like all of the one that I have seen have had the end of the bottom of the spring on the inboard side also. Yours was marked with dots on the spring and a small white dot on the top mounting surface which were all toward the inboard side when you removed the strut, as was the end of the bottom of the spring. I am not sure if you can use the bottom of the spring as a reference or not. But if it is an accurate reference then you put yours on 180 degrees off. If anyone knows for sure please leave it in the comments here. Thanks
@@hardlymovingpro Good video! I have 2 CRVs that I have change struts on a few times. The only other comment I have is that the AWD models are quite a bit more challenging.
Yes ... if you purchase the "Quick" or "Complete" strut. You can always just purchase the strut and transfer the spring, spring seat, strut bellows and upper strut mount from the old strut. You'll need to get you hands on spring compressors to perform the transfer.
The complete rear struts are listed for sale on Amazon within the "Show More" description area of this video. The KYB brand is OE (Original Equipment) quality.
Jealous of the Impact Wrench(es) I'm doing this with handtools & my Impact Driver...not ideal. Going to go buy myself a breaker bar tomorrow which hopefully will let the WD40 do it thing some more as well... Looks like you have your CRV lifted higher than mine, or at any rate, the lower control arm & hub looks to have dropped further...I'm thinking because the top of the strut us rusted into the well in the vehicle. Again hopeful WD40 will do its job overnight. Thanks for the video!
@@thelankyjim I had to make a choice between Dewalt and Milwaukee and I went with Milwaukee. Around 10 years ago, my 1st Milwaukee was a M18 series 1/2 impact tool rated at around 300 lbs. It came with 2 batteries, a recharger and carrying case. Since then I've never looked back. Not a single one of my follow up bare tools have malfunctioned. Battery packs, however, do eventually go bad. I now own M18 & M12 ratchet wrenches, drills, flash lights as well as medium to heavy duty (1,200 lbs) M18 impact tools. Around a dozen or so tools with multiple battery recharges. I accidentally bought a 1/2" M12 ratchet wrench in lieu of a 3/8". Wonderful mistake. Tremendous amount of torque! Have to hold it tight or it'll twist out of my hand. Puts out 60 lbs of torque! Can most of the time get 14 mm nuts and bolts off that my older 3/8" driver couldn't. The mechanics at the shop use either Milwaukee or Snap On. Snap On is both overpriced and over rated.
So I’ve borrowed a CH impact wrench...it’s not moving anything...it’s supposed to make 250 ft lb...guessing I’m just going to have to take a sawzall to this bolt?
Sorely tempted by a Dewalt Impact Wrench but don’t think it’ll help...can justify some $$ as it’d probably cost me $250 in labour to have a local mechanic use his tools.
@@RebeccaStinespring after hours of trying to get it out I eventually gave in and cut the bolt out I even tried heating the bolt to try and break it free, after getting it out I realized if you have the whole control arm just hanging there the strut will be holding the control arm up, maybe try jacking the lower control arm maybe an inch to get rid of any downward or upward pressure of the strut to the control arm. If that doesn’t work try heating up the bolt, you probably don’t want to get it red hot (like I did lol) because that would just melt the rubber bushing in the strut. If you have a small propane torch just to get it hot. And then try your best. If that doesn’t work you may wanna just cut it out, it was honestly the worst experience I’ve ever had working on my car, there’s just not a lot of room to fit a breaker bar or an impact down there. I hope this helps Dude, I will seriously pray and cross my fingers for you. I hope you get them out!
Thank you, I replaced the struts on my car, watching your video as a guide on my smart phone...I wish life pays you back multiple times.
Thanks for your comment and support!
Hey! I just replaced my rear struts on a 2005 CRV using your video as my primary source. This the first work I have ever done on any car ever and I bought all my mechanics tools just for this. It went very well and even with parts and tools saved my $700. Thank you so so so much for taking the time to film, edit, and post this video. You’re awesome.
Hey Nicholas ... you're welcome and thanks! My video editor-in-chief and I want to make all our DIY videos as short, simple and straight forward as possible. You're post confirms what we're doing and is uplifting.
Lucky you I broke my fucking brake line I'm so pissed
How long did it take you. I would like to know if i will be able to accomplish the task over a weekend on all four wheels.
Replacing mines now any tips
Straight forward procedure so not really.
Awesome video knew nothing about doing this on a CRV did it for a friend and was able to get it done with no problem thanks to your video god bless you man
Thanks and glad it worked out for you!
Thank you. I was having trouble. Thanks to you I think I can finish this
Glad I could help!
Wow. U made this so easy. I like your paste to explain the process. Thank you very much.
You're welcome and thanks for your comment and support!
HEADS UP! It looks like in this video he had removed the rear CV axle which gives clearance to remove the rear strut. I didn't notice this until I was already half way through the repair. I could not remove the rear strut the way he did since the CV axle was in the way.
My solution for the LEFT side:
(1) Unlink the swaybar link
(2) Detach the caliper and move it to the left of the strut
(3) You should be able to wrestle the strut out to the left
RIGHT side:
(1) I was able to remove the strut without removing anything else but the top 2 nuts and bottom bolt of the strut, it was fairly easy to wrestle it out since this side doesn't have that giant box in the way.
(2) HOWEVER I found I had to unlink the swaybar link AND the knuckle from the upper control arm to get the new strut lined up properly to install the bottom bolt. I did not have to remove the brake caliper for this side, although you mind as well grease the caliper pins while you're there.
Just replaced both rear and front struts on my 03 CRV thanks to this channel's videos. Thanks a lot man!
Glad you found the videos useful!
His CR-V is FWD maybe.
Awd most crv.
Nice video. FYI, it is much easier to perform this procedure up on a lift without re-moving anything other than just the strut but again, most people do not have a lift so your method is a solid one. One suggestion for future videos, had I produced this video, I would have shown a side by side comparison between the OEM part and the KYB. The reason that I bring this up is because KYB for years always made a quality product and continues to make OEM products for many Japanese car companies but the OEM factory standard is usually better than the aftermarket even though both might be KYB in origin. KYB lately has moved much of its manufacturing to China and they have suffered quality control issues. A side by side comparison would have shown spring thickness and overall strut production, weight, metal thickness and piston & shaft sizing. The devil is in the details, not just in the name. Thanks again for a thoughtful video.
If you used a lift to bring the suspension to shoulder level, you would have to eventually move the vehicle to ground level to access the upper strut mount nuts inside the car (as though you did not use a lift at all)? Once lifted, you'd need to find a way to compress the lower control arm upward in order to disconnect the upper control rod from the knuckle (perhaps using a adjustable post jack). At that point, you can then remove the strut's lower mounting bolt. So basically, you're better off not using a lift at all unless the car's lift height isn't more than a foot off the ground?
For your 2nd point, I find it hard to believe that KYB will provide replacement parts of different quality between the aftermarket consumer and the car manufacturer. But then again, anything is possible. The difference in part weight, metal thickness, etc. may reflect an upgrade of the part after KYB received feedback from the auto manufacturer. Perhaps a manufacturer's recall or consumer's unusually high warranty claims.
Just remove the three 10mm bolts holding the charcoal canister and support it. The strut will come right out. My bottom mount bolts were seized, so I had to cut it out and replace with a new bolt and nut.
So you're saying move the strut out of its cradle by moving it towards the center of the car? But first remove the charcoal canister to allow the strut to swing inward ... right?
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, exactly. Here is a video showing it. ua-cam.com/video/oXuV-lTjhr4/v-deo.html
Watched the video. That's another way of doing it. My preference is to avoid crawling under the car .... Twice. To remove bolts and to reinstall all on my back.
Great video ...thanks. also as I was watching all I could think is you forgot to use antiseize on all of the threads. It definitely helps on vehicles where salt is used in the winter :)
~Cheers
Thanks. Yes and no on the antiseize. I don't live by the coast or in the snow belt were's there's salt in the air and on the roads. Also Japanese nuts and bolts are zinc coated to prevent corrosion. But sometimes I do use it where there has been corrosion.
Keep on posting this videos .. very Helpful
Thank you, I will!
Very nicely done. Thank you
Thanks!
Great video and really detailed, thanks and God bless you Sir.
Thanks ... and glad you liked it and found it useful!
Just remove the two top bolts and the single one at the bottom and remove the whole assembly. Then slide in the new assembly and that’s all you gotta do. 3 bolts. Not sure why all the extra steps were shown. It’s much easier than this depicts.
You make it sound so easy, driver side one doesn’t come out. Stupid box thing in the way.
Thanks for the great video, wish my bolts weren't seized to shit so I could finish the swap!!!
I know your grief.
Seized to where you were were just totally unable to loosen them, OR to just snap the bolts off? Assuming they're the bolts to the old part, I wouldn't have let that slow me down...
If you weren't able to budge it, then you should really consider either 1.) looking up some wrench leverage techniques (pipe extensions to ratchet/wrench, hammer blows to break loose the first rotations, etc), 2.) Get stronger, 3,)Both.
This is just one L, champ...im sure you'll be back on your game soon.. We'll be happy to unpause the status on your man card once you get this thing figured out 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Heat from a propane torch can break rust adhesion.
Boom! Great video.....Its my turn to give it a shot.
Good luck!
Fantastic, thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
If you are doing it with a jack, unbolt stabiliser. Will be easier to push down the lower control arm
The audience thanks you!
My car needs this so badly. Rear tyres are wearing on the inside the tyres are not even sitting straight...
I hear you!
what about the front shocks, similar procedure?
Nope. Different.
Nice video sir,i just wonder if u can tell me the espec torque for all of the struts,now that I'm gonna be working on my 2002 Honda crv.
Don't use a torque wrench with these larger nuts and bolts ... rather I tighten everything down with my impact tools. You can always add lock-tight on the threads if you're concerned that may get loose some day.
Very nice video much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it!
They were bad ? I have an o5 and some how when I passing but a bump or hole I hear 👂 like a cracking idk something like if coming from the back idk it’s could be a bad struck
Could be a combination of bad struts with worn out stabilizer bar links or bushings.
Excellent help, Thank You 🙏 Sir.
You bet!
Great video
Thanks!
Did you install the rear struts backwards notice the spring ending point bottom. On OEM it was facing inward you placed it outwards on the new.
Sorry. Don't recall.
thank you!
You're welcome!
Thanks for sharing! Nice job on explaining and recording.
Thanks for viewing and your comment.
No rust 😩.. we are in New England. Mine seized in the bushings
I feel your pain.
How can you tell for sure that strut/shock is bad for sure without actually removing it.
Oil leakage around base of the strut stem ... rear end bounces around on rough roads ... when pushing down on the rear end and then letting go, the rebound is springy ... suspension bottoms out when encountering dips in the road then bounces around on the rebound... virtually no suspension resistance when pushing down on the rear end.
Great video and information 👍
You bet!
Ad what if you mount them backwards, turned 180 degrees,so the front will be at the back?
I don't see how that's possible.
Those bolts came out way too easy, did you use penetrating fluid or just live outside the rust belt?
Just curious if I'll need new flang bolts before I attempt this.
Awesome video and thank you sir!
It's the high torque impact tools ... and not living in the rust belt 😁
Is it necessary to preload the rear shock assemblies on this vehicle? I’m trying to help a friend, and on my Xterra, it’s recommended to preload the front shock assemblies. But I don’t know about the CR-V.
Generally recommended to remove tension on the control arm bushings once the wheels are on the ground and the compression is slightly compressed.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you!🤙🏽
You bet!
good work
Thanks!
Thank you
Welcome!
Did you remove the Axle?
Nope.
No! Too much disassembly see the other videos
thanks for sharing..
My pleasure!
No need to touch the hub and remove the cables... just undo the bottom shock bolt and the two inner ones and with a small prybar on the base of the shocker mount, remove the unit complete... your way means you get all tangled up in the cables you have disturbed...
Good to know! But no big deal detaching the cables.
Did you remove the drive shaft first?
Don't recall.
Can you tell the reason or problem why replacing it?
Out-of-round tire cannot be fixed regardless of the amount of remaining thread. Bent wheels can be fix but can be expensive ... you'll have to find a shop that does this type of repair. Bent CV axles aren't straighten ... just replaced.
What’s the best struts to replace on a 2005 Honda CR-V
KYB or Sachs
Bilstein are the best, pricey but worth it
So those nuts at the access port are not torqed that tight ? Whats the torque spec ?
Thanks for your comments. Don't know the torque specs. I just toque them down by feel and experience. Head bolts, on the other hand, you have to be very precise and I use a torque wrench.
я стойку вынимал без откручивания верхнего рычага
How does those kyb ride on the crv?
As close too if not better than OEM.
Great video! Did you post the socket sizes somewhere?
I can look at any Japanese import and know what size socket to grab. Why? Their nut and bolt sizes are all consistent: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21 mm.
@@hardlymovingpro You rock!
@@ticklemetorres1 you bet!
I successfully changed mine!
Question, can you do a video or point me where to look for the cruise control module location on my 2003 Honda CRV?
Nothing I’m my Haynes... says go to dealer 🤦🏻♀️
I push the cruise button, which illuminates sometimes but no light on the dash and won’t set speed or anything. No cruise control lights on dash whatsoever.
What brand of front quick struts would you recommend since KYB doesnt seem to make front quick struts for the 04 CRV
Try Sachs, Monroe or Gabriel. No-name-brands are a crap shoot.
@@hardlymovingpro I've heard from a few people That monroe dont last long, I was leaning towards kyb maybe? What do you think about those?
@@kelseyfrates8104 Skip Monroe and Gabriel. Poor quality now. Used to be good. KYB or Bilstein much better.
At 2:38 what is the name of that part behind the glove? Trying to find a replacement part for it.
Also at 3:27 at the center. Is it called a sway bar end link or stabilizer bar link?
That's a hydraulic pump jack.
Bro, nice video but I think you put wrong side towards the car. The spring end goes facing the gas tank, at 6:00 it is facing the wheel. Yeah, I know, it may be not a big deal but that's how original spring is installed...
Yes ... you may be correct but I really don't think it matters.
@@hardlymovingpro According to service manual it does matter, i think the top mounting surface of the strut is slightly angled to compensate for offset between bottom and top vehicle mounting points. The original struts had a small hole in the top mounting surface which is suppose to go to the inboard side. I am not sure how to determine which side that is on replacements, but it seems like all of the one that I have seen have had the end of the bottom of the spring on the inboard side also. Yours was marked with dots on the spring and a small white dot on the top mounting surface which were all toward the inboard side when you removed the strut, as was the end of the bottom of the spring. I am not sure if you can use the bottom of the spring as a reference or not. But if it is an accurate reference then you put yours on 180 degrees off. If anyone knows for sure please leave it in the comments here. Thanks
@@brianjohnson3053 It's been over 2 years and the customer has no problems.
@@hardlymovingpro Good to know thanks.
@@hardlymovingpro Good video! I have 2 CRVs that I have change struts on a few times. The only other comment I have is that the AWD models are quite a bit more challenging.
Is that a hammer drill, or an adjustable one?
No hammer drills in this video. You must be seeing the electric 1/2" impact gun that I'm using.
The spring come with absorbers?
Yes ... if you purchase the "Quick" or "Complete" strut. You can always just purchase the strut and transfer the spring, spring seat, strut bellows and upper strut mount from the old strut. You'll need to get you hands on spring compressors to perform the transfer.
@@hardlymovingpro where can I buy the complete strut with springs?
The complete rear struts are listed for sale on Amazon within the "Show More" description area of this video. The KYB brand is OE (Original Equipment) quality.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the info
@@hermis809 No problem and good luck!
Jealous of the Impact Wrench(es) I'm doing this with handtools & my Impact Driver...not ideal. Going to go buy myself a breaker bar tomorrow which hopefully will let the WD40 do it thing some more as well...
Looks like you have your CRV lifted higher than mine, or at any rate, the lower control arm & hub looks to have dropped further...I'm thinking because the top of the strut us rusted into the well in the vehicle. Again hopeful WD40 will do its job overnight.
Thanks for the video!
Impact tools does make the job go faster and easier!
Any recommendation for an electric cordless impact wrench? Looking at the Dewalt 20v Max
I already have dewalt cordless, batteries & charger...
@@thelankyjim I had to make a choice between Dewalt and Milwaukee and I went with Milwaukee. Around 10 years ago, my 1st Milwaukee was a M18 series 1/2 impact tool rated at around 300 lbs. It came with 2 batteries, a recharger and carrying case. Since then I've never looked back. Not a single one of my follow up bare tools have malfunctioned. Battery packs, however, do eventually go bad. I now own M18 & M12 ratchet wrenches, drills, flash lights as well as medium to heavy duty (1,200 lbs) M18 impact tools. Around a dozen or so tools with multiple battery recharges. I accidentally bought a 1/2" M12 ratchet wrench in lieu of a 3/8". Wonderful mistake. Tremendous amount of torque! Have to hold it tight or it'll twist out of my hand. Puts out 60 lbs of torque! Can most of the time get 14 mm nuts and bolts off that my older 3/8" driver couldn't. The mechanics at the shop use either Milwaukee or Snap On. Snap On is both overpriced and over rated.
So I’ve borrowed a CH impact wrench...it’s not moving anything...it’s supposed to make 250 ft lb...guessing I’m just going to have to take a sawzall to this bolt?
Sorely tempted by a Dewalt Impact Wrench but don’t think it’ll help...can justify some $$ as it’d probably cost me $250 in labour to have a local mechanic use his tools.
Seems easy HOWEVER GOD BE TESTING THE EVER LIVING SHIT OUTTA ME. I cannot to save my life get the bottom bolt of the strut out it’s way to stuck
I'm currently having the same issue. How did you end up getting it out eventually? I've been working on this thing for hours.
@@RebeccaStinespring after hours of trying to get it out I eventually gave in and cut the bolt out I even tried heating the bolt to try and break it free, after getting it out I realized if you have the whole control arm just hanging there the strut will be holding the control arm up, maybe try jacking the lower control arm maybe an inch to get rid of any downward or upward pressure of the strut to the control arm. If that doesn’t work try heating up the bolt, you probably don’t want to get it red hot (like I did lol) because that would just melt the rubber bushing in the strut. If you have a small propane torch just to get it hot. And then try your best. If that doesn’t work you may wanna just cut it out, it was honestly the worst experience I’ve ever had working on my car, there’s just not a lot of room to fit a breaker bar or an impact down there. I hope this helps Dude, I will seriously pray and cross my fingers for you. I hope you get them out!
Am I really the only one that saw Jesus at 7:35?
Great video