The Ideal bump steer is 0. You don't want any steering input that is not done by the driver. The ideal set up of the toe arm is dependent on many factors and varies from car to car and set up.
You need to use a dial indicator on both sides of the hub. There is a lot of camber change during compression and with only one dial indicator you will see this as a change in toe as well.
Thank you, No I mean during rebound. Usually set-ups are the opposite but there is very little change. Toe out during compression can cause instability but this set-up worked pretty well.
It kinda depends on the toe curve but a factory car should statically sit at the most linear part of the curve so as you deviate from that you could get more toe dynamic change. So I would say yes all cars ideally should be checked/adjusted but probably less critical on the AP2
Curious to see how the toe change curves between AP1 and AP2. One of the biggest differences are in the rear knuckle, where the toe arm attaches.. the angle is slightly different between the two
Yes, If you change the length of the tie rod it changes toe angles. You will want to have an alignment afterwards and then check bump again to assure you are still seeing similar results.
@@brookhammerschmidt4464 Thanks alot for the quick reply, so what youre saying is that inevitably its a compromise between getting the correct static toe settings that you require and its effect good or bad on total bumpsteer since you cant achieve both.
@@alyousuf I think in the stock condition you can achieve both but once you lower your car it is no longer optimized. Being able to adjust the length and the pivot points of the toe arms you can get it close to the original optimized condition but it may never be quite as good. Possibly though, I never measured the stock condition. That said stock condition will probably still have some bump steer. I have seen some factory suspension drawings and they had some toe change as the extreme ends of suspension stroke. Hope that helps.
What method did you use to measure 3.5” of suspension travel?
Would love to see a video of the front as well 😊
There is a scale on the long acre tool so you just jack it up in increments.
Can you please do a video on ideal bump steer angles and ideal angles of the toe arm
The Ideal bump steer is 0. You don't want any steering input that is not done by the driver. The ideal set up of the toe arm is dependent on many factors and varies from car to car and set up.
Brook, my name is brook. Male brooks unite.
You are the only the 2nd male Brook I have heard of. well 3rd counting myself.
You need to use a dial indicator on both sides of the hub. There is a lot of camber change during compression and with only one dial indicator you will see this as a change in toe as well.
That is true of most set ups but take a look at long acre's website. Their design only requires one.
oh I see now, that's a clever design :)
Very informative! @7:57 you mean toe in during "compression" correct?
On nvm, I mixed between inch and in in the x axis. Makes sense now lol
Thank you, No I mean during rebound. Usually set-ups are the opposite but there is very little change. Toe out during compression can cause instability but this set-up worked pretty well.
Good video.
What’s different on the ap2 that makes it less prone to bump steer?
AP2 has different rear suspension geometry. Subframe and upper control arms are different.
Did the Nagisa arms come with NMB rod ends?
Idk what brand the rod ends are but yes that is how they came.
Is bumpsteer something all lowered cars (ap2 inclusive) should have checked, or is this simply an approach to correct the ap1’s rear suspension geo?
It kinda depends on the toe curve but a factory car should statically sit at the most linear part of the curve so as you deviate from that you could get more toe dynamic change. So I would say yes all cars ideally should be checked/adjusted but probably less critical on the AP2
Curious to see how the toe change curves between AP1 and AP2.
One of the biggest differences are in the rear knuckle, where the toe arm attaches.. the angle is slightly different between the two
wouldnt changing the length of the tie-rod then change your static toe angles?
Yes, If you change the length of the tie rod it changes toe angles. You will want to have an alignment afterwards and then check bump again to assure you are still seeing similar results.
@@brookhammerschmidt4464 Thanks alot for the quick reply, so what youre saying is that inevitably its a compromise between getting the correct static toe settings that you require and its effect good or bad on total bumpsteer since you cant achieve both.
@@alyousuf I think in the stock condition you can achieve both but once you lower your car it is no longer optimized. Being able to adjust the length and the pivot points of the toe arms you can get it close to the original optimized condition but it may never be quite as good. Possibly though, I never measured the stock condition. That said stock condition will probably still have some bump steer. I have seen some factory suspension drawings and they had some toe change as the extreme ends of suspension stroke. Hope that helps.
By chance did you measure the bumpsteer using the stock arm?
No I did not. Would have been nice to know though.
Man you should be going to MIT or something . . .
Lol! I got that attention sh*t...