omg I'm so glad I saw this video. the backup cutoff override button is annoying. I have kids and a pet but I make sure they are not outside when I mow the lawn. Now I know I can pull that wire to allow me to mow going backwards. THANK YOU!!! You rock!
I have a 2016 Cub Cadet XT2 LX46 FAB. This model came with a K46v auto-locking differential. I removed the transaxle at 93 hours and drained the old fluid out. I was dark and nasty looking. I bought the Tuff-Tech 5w-50 synthetic that Turff Torque recommends and installed just over 2 liters which is what drained out. "Life Time" fluid is a joke. Life time means it will last through the warranty period. It's the very same thing with autos. I disabled the safety switch under the seat because when I would turn around to see if a car was coming when hauling leaves down the road, the engine would quit. Also, I removed the steering gears and lifted the shaft to lube the bushings at the top and especially the one at the bottom. They were totally dry. I lube the steering gears with Red'N'Tacky grease and blow the dust and debris off after every mowing. The tractor has 135 hours and the gears show no wear whatsoever. Leaving them dry will definitely wear them out quicker.
Excellent video! One tip I'll add, when changing the transmission fluid the best way to purge the air is to pull out the transmission locking lever and roll the tractor back and forth about 10 times then re engage the lever ,start up the tractor and shift from forward to reverse about 10 times then check the fluid level and refill if needed and you are good to go. Best Regards, Jay
Thanks! I did engage/release the locking lever a bunch of times while spinning the transaxle with a 1/2" electric drill. It got a lot of air out and I added more fluid to the transaxle, reinstalled it and ran the tractor for a while and everything worked great so I fully seated the fill plug and called the project done. I had used only 1.5qt of the three quarts of fluid I bought, but I wasn't too concerned since others on the internet had used between 1.5 and 2.5qt. But...the first time I mowed a week later the mower backed out of the shed fine and then ran really slow in forward and no reverse. I kept engaging forward and reverse for about 10 seconds and the forward speed gradually increased to normal and reverse began to work as before. The fill plug is inaccessible when the transaxle is mounted in the mower, so I added nearly another quart via the vent port to just slightly above the proper level. My thinking being that any excess fluid can escape via the vent port. I've mowed at least 10 times since then and everything is working perfectly and a minuscule amount of fluid has come out of the vent. Next time I'll run the transaxle with a drill until I get at least 2qt of new fluid in it, fully seat the fill plug, install the transaxle and try your suggestion of rolling the tractor as well as running the mower for quite a bit longer engaging/disengaging the locking lever and driving forward/reverse and recheck/refill via the vent port. I'll let it settle for at least overnight and recheck/top off as needed via the vent port.
I know it’s only been a year and you probably don’t have enough hours on it to replace the trans fluid again but if you did it and made a detailed video of the transmission removal and the entire process your video would get soooo many views and you would be my savior.
Do a search on UA-cam. There are several detailed videos on the procedure to change the transaxle fluid. It is not too difficult, just a bit time consuming.
I have the same seat issue and I’m 220 lbs. . I wish the key was in a different place, I’ve bumped it with my knee and stopped the motor so many times. I’m thinking of adding a switch to the headlights. I rarely move it in the dark and no need to power the lights all the time. I need to change the trans oil soon. Keeping the linkages clear of any dried vegetation helps a lot in the working of the forward and reverse movement.
Outstanding advice on transaxle service. The K46 gets a bad rap in my humble opinion as it’s a light duty consumer grade unit that is often over tasked. Maintenance is key to longevity. I too have this transaxle in my 2012 LTX1042KW and it’s been going strong approaching 400 hours. I change the fluid at the end of every season as oil is cheap and the unit is not. Long out of warranty I use Mobil1 15W50 V-Twin synthetic motorcycle oil. Tuff Torq specifically recommended this oil for its detergent properties and additives as used in motorcycle wet clutches. Hope more owners take your advice and preform the transaxle service.
I agree, the transaxle should last a long time with adequate maintenance. The next time I service mine I'm going to drill and tap the case for drain plugs so it will be so much easier to service in the future.
@@Koolbob2 It’s my understanding that there is a replaceable filter and another magnet in the lower case. When you crack it open to add the drain plugs you’ll have access to them for cleaning or replacement. Your transaxle should give you many years of good service. I personally would enjoy a video of your future upgrade if you are so inclined.
You are correct about the seat shutoff switch being sensitive. I am over 200 pounds, but often have it shut off on me when I am positioning the hose to do a clean out of the mower deck, which I do after almost every mowing. Great advice in how to keep the switch, but make it a lot less sensitive. Thank you!
Thanks for taking a moment to let me know the video was helpful! yea, I thought they looked like they needed greasing too, but the manual says NO and it makes sense if you think about how much abrasive dirt and grit the grease would attract. Happy mowing!
Great video,very informative. I've the older version of this mower,the ltx1040. It's been a good mower over the last 260 hours. My pto engagement handle bent and needed replacement. I've got the old style low back seat,but I may tryin locate one like yours. It looks very comfortable. I also bypassed the reverse mow lock out.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, it's good to know your mower install going strong. The high back seat is really comfortable, but my lawn has a lot of sloped areas and I'm frequently leaning to one side or the other and the arm rest get in the way so I always leave them folded upright. If your lawn is flat and you're going to be mowing for an hour or so, you may enjoy the armrest, otherwise I'd recommend a comfortable high back seat without the extra expense of the armrest. I see that there are many to choose from on Amazon and eBay, but I'd check with any local places that sell or service mowers to see if they have a used one.
Yea, the DIY/cheapskate in me wants to be sure to perform all the maintenance I can on this mower to make it last. Initially I thought the steering gears needed grease, but the manual says not to grease them and after seeing how much dust and grit gets on the mower each time I use it not greasing the steering makes sense.
Yes, this is a design flaw that many mowers share. I use a leaf blower to blow off my mower before I put it back in the shed and I make sure to blow in the area under the pedal. After mulching the last of the leaves in the fall, I service the mower before putting it away for the winter and I clear any grass that is under the pedal that the blower missed.
Glad to hear you found the best mower for your needs. I looked at the same brands you did and the deciding factor for me was access to a full-service Cub Cadet dealer in town whereas JD, Sears and Husqvarna dealers are all 60-miles away from my home. I had to make the same upgrades and modifications to the Craftsman mower I had before this one. It lasted 15-years before the engine block cracked and I sold the Craftsman as-is for $150.
Bob, your lawn looks great. I have the same grass and I think the short cut looks far better than my 3" cut. It is hot here and too late to cut it short without stressing the grass. I will start doing the short cut early next spring when the temperature is much cooler. Really enjoyed this video and how you made your mower more conducive to your body weight.
Thank you! The fella we bought the house from had the yard sodded with cheap common Bermuda, but there were a few patches of Zoyza here and there in the sod. The Zoyza has slowly taken over in a few places and it looks so much better. One of these days I'll kill off the remaining Bermuda and resod with Zoyza.
This is incredibly helpful! Thank you! I am considering this machine but I only weigh 110 lbs soaking wet. I'm not sure I want to start modifying safety features, but at least I know how now if I decide to do so.
You can take the switch out of the seat and zip tie/tape it up so it just thinks someone is sitting on it all the time.. You can easily undo it anytime
Thankyou . Very informative information. I have a 2021 XT2 Club Cadet with the rear discharge and catcher. I'm having Problems too with sensors. The cutting blades keep stopping. I have to dismount and check the catcher lugs..and see that they are all the way up. Yes then the reverse switch need resetting. Then the position on the seat. I'm working my way through each sensor . I do not want to disable them entirely like you say. Ive done 80 hours and @50 hours New Air filter new oil filter and oil change. New inline fuel filter. I didn't know about transmission oil change.
I'm still really enjoying my CubCadet, especially after my mods and upgrades. Nearly every riding mower on the market in the USA uses the TuffTorque transaxle and it's a shame they don't install drain plugs on every model transaxle they make and recommend regular fluid changes when they know it greatly extends transaxle life.
Im going to buy a new mower and I've been in love with this cubcadet for two years now I have the money to buy it..but several people have told me not to get a John Deer or huskavarna and so on just don't get one with a plastic transmission. Now I'm more confused then ever . I have a sears craftsman that just need starter but getting someone to help is another story. It has over 1500 hours and still runs great..
My Craftsman mower wasn't anything special and it lasted 16-years on my hilly, bumpy yard. 1,500 hours is a long time, I'm sure whatever you buy will last you a long time. I researched John Deer, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet and Craftsman. They are all more alike than different in my opinion, they all have Tuff-Torq transaxles and either Kohler, Briggs and Stratton or Tecumseh engines. I almost bought a Husqvarna because they have a 42" model with a locking rear differential which should help mowing on steep hills. I really liked the Cub Cadet features and price and there is an authorized Cub Cadet dealer in town with a full service shop. I could have saved a hundred bucks ordering my Cub Cadet on-line, but I got it from the local shop and they delivered it assembled and ready to run. They also had all the supplies in stock for me to change my transaxle fluid and have been great to work with.
Omg I can relate so much to this, I am also lightweight so when I hit a bump in my lawn it shuts off the engine then it turns back on and makes it run rough so that’s why I disables it
The "life of the tractor' for this average consumer is probably 5 or 6 years for most consumers because the average consumer won't bother to read the manual and follow the proper maintenance guidelines and when something breaks they will blame it on poor manufacturing and planned obsolescence. I bought my first riding mower from Sears (it was the cheapest 42" model available). I not only mow the yard with my mower, but I also pull a lawn aerator and a 500-lb capacity utility cart that I use to haul logs, branches and debris when I remove unwanted or fallen trees. I changed the oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter and spark plug at the end of the mowing season every year and probably changed the drive and deck belts three or four times and I got 16-years out of it. I thought about filling the engine block crack with JB Weld or having it welded, but I decided to treat myself to a new mower with a more powerful engine for hauling. I'll use the new mower just as hard and take care of it just as well and I expect "life of the tractor' to be 12-years minimum.
I have to get off my mower way to much to have seat switch. That went first, I made many years without one and plan on doing so the rest of my life. I gale I watched I didn't know about the trans oil change so I will jump on that soon. Of course they don't want people to change the oil in them, that's more money for them when they get replaced. I had to put tubes in all my tires, they wouldn't hold air very long at all. Also the the back up switch will be going now that I now how to.
I was so glad to see your video as I had questions. I have the 2015 XT-2 line & the LX 46 series. I bought it used today with 800 hrs on it. As cleaning it up I noticed ALOT: of dried-up oil on top and all over the transaxle. Was told by a lawnmower mech over the phone, that it is a sealed unit and that it has that vent port with a cover on top. So how/where do I drain any old fluid from it and add fresh fluid into it? Access point to fill it up? Went to the links you had available for us and keep getting error codes. Greatly appreciate the help from you or anyone knowledgeable in this manner!
Congratulations on your new-ish mower! There isn’t a drain on the transaxle, Tuff Torq considers the original fluid to be good for the life of the transaxle. But the life of the transaxle can be extended considerably by changing the fluid at 50-hrs and again every 200-hours. My recommendation is to buy a new fill plug, vent cap and 3qts of the appropriate fluid (check the model number of your transaxle and look up the right fluid). Remove the axle, pop out the fill plug and turn it over to drain. Refill, purge the air bubbles and when you are sure it’s full go ahead and use the mower. I was certain mine was completely purged and then it started slipping the second time I mowed the lawn. I removed the vent cap, added another 1/2qt until it was full all the way and installed the new vent cap. A little excess fluid leaked out the vent cap after a few mowings and I cleaned it up with engine degreaser. I don’t expect to change the fluid again for a few years.
I put my Cub XT2 on jack stands and removed the rear wheels. There are only (4) bolts holding the transaxle in with a couple of small screws on the sides of the frame for anti-rotation. Take the battery out to access the drive belt and linkage. Put a jack under the transaxle and when everything is unbolted you can slide it out easily. It only weighs 40-50 lbs. Once out, clean the area around the fill plug so no dirt enters when the fill cap is removed. Tip the transaxle upside down and rest it on a 5-gallon pale. Let it drain overnight. Measure how much fluid came out. I should be about 2-liters. Some will remain in the pump and motor. I bought the actual Tuff-Tech 5w-50 synthetic fluid. Running great at 135 hours.
“Factory sealed and requires no maintenance” is code for “the transmission might last 200 hours” as it applies to the K46. I bought a Cub Cadet XT2 but mine has a K58.
Hi Ted, I was just waiting to see if someone else had a different transaxle in theirs. What year and Model, series is yours? I have a 2015 XT-2, LX46 Signature Cut. I'm not sure what transaxle may be in mine yet as the Sticker is missing and bought it used. I also was really wondering what the difference between the K46 & the K58. I'm looking to find something that has more torq/beefier so to speak that would "bolt right up to my tractor" without and fabrication. Thx so much for your time.
I have the K46 in my 2012 LTX1042KW and it’s been going strong almost 400 hours. Granted my property is very flat with a well established lawn and I do not use any implements other than the occasional pull behind cart. I have changed the fluid in the unit multiple times and use Mobil1 15W50 synthetic motorcycle oil as recommended by Tuff Torq. It’s a light duty transaxle and maintenance is the key.
Good video Bob. I paid $1,800 CDN for a new Trans to be installed in my JD X320 after 288 hours. I had the dealer do it due to Warranty concerns. I will change out the Tranny fluid as suggested. Don't know what series trans it is at the moment. My last JD Hydrostatic lasted over 600. Seems to me it was a K57??? I don't necessarily agree with your no-grease on Sector steering gear. I have found that the pinion (small) gear can be reversed if you drill it through (there is a land to be removed) and give a 'new' wear area.
Thanks for watching! Once you understand how a hydrostatic transaxle works you realize just how much stress it puts on the fluid. Next time I change the fluid in mine I may drill and tap the case so I can add drain plugs. Good to know the steering area can be reversed if it becomes worn.
I bought a new 2016 XT2 LX42 KH in May 2017. It has 320 hours and runs great with original fluid in transmission. It does get annual maintenance at the CC dealer. Warranty replaced (free) a leaky engine oil drain line, a leaking fuel pump. Cub Cadet website, Warranty FAQs - What circumstances would void the warranty? 1-Lack of maintenance and/or improper maintenance as described in the operator's manual. 4-Any product that has been altered or modified in a manner not approved. (plus 2 other ones) My Tractor forum - "was told [by local cub dealer] that a "sealed" trans axle is not meant to be serviced, and for that reason, any work done, even it was maintenance, would void my warranty on the unit."
My last mower was a cheapo Craftsman and it lasted almost 17-years which is impressive when you consider my yard is fairly large and some slopes are right at the limits of what can be semi-safely mowed with a riding mower. I have to shift my weight all the way to the edge of the seat on some slopes to keep the mower upright and/or keep one rear wheel from spinning. I do all my own maintenance and replace the oil, filter, spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter every fall when I'm done mulching the leaves. The blades get sharpened four or five times a season and I degrease the front hubs and steeling knuckles whenever I sharpen the blades. In addition to mowing, the LT2 is also used to pull a 100-lb+ core aerator over the entire lawn a few times a season and I tow my garden trailer full of logs, limbs, stumps etc down our steep 220-ft driveway whenever I'm doing tree removal. I also pull the trailer full of dirt, sand, mulch, etc. The trailer is rated for 500-lbs and I try not to overload it. All of the aeration and towing puts a lot of stress on the transaxle, so I don't mind giving it a little extra maintenance.
Like most hydrostatic transaxles, my previous Craftsman mower's manual said the unit was sealed and didn't require any service. After many years of use the hydrostatic transaxle got so loud that it was nearly as loud as the engine. It also pulsed and jerked when going up hills. At this point a lot of folks just buy a new transaxle, but I decided to change the oil in the unit to see if it would help. The old oil looked like metallic grey paint. Fresh oil made it run much better, though it was still louder than when it was new. After that experience I will always change the transaxle fluid periodically, even if the manual says it's not necessary.
I have an XT1 and have never liked the mulch cover. I have used a bolt with large washer to try to hold it down. I see the metal bar you have holding yours down, can you explain how you did that?
Thanks for watching! The wire rod came with the mulch cover and it does a decent job of holding the back end of the mulch cover down, but I kept having problems with the mulch cover raising up in the middle and allowing big chunks of grass to be discharged from under the mulch cover. I made another video showing how to fix the mulch cover once and for all. I used plastic zip-ties because I sometimes switch to bagging, but if you want to mulch 100% of the time use metal ties instead. Here's a link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/IEbKVMpT7qg/v-deo.html
If you’re short it’s really hard to push the brake to start. Dealers only solution is to attach a block of wood to the brake! I want to attach a push button switch on the dash to the brake switch. All safety switches would function as intended but you could start this thing easily! How a😊bout a video?
I've never cleaned the underside of the mowing deck on any mower. I just use my blower to blow off the whole mower, including the top of the mowing deck before storing it. In order to remove the blades for sharpening I raise the mower deck to it's highest position, set the brake and place a hydraulic car jack under the center of the front axel and lift it as high as it will go. I'd recommend using the same method if you want to clean the underside of the mowing deck.
Question: I have an older but the same unit as yours. It's really been an excellent mower in the past. Problem: Why does the engine bog down now as I engage the blades. The rpm's will gradually speed back up after engaged, what's the problem ? Thanks
It's normal for the engine to slow down a bit load of getting the blades up to speed is applied. However, if you feel it's slowing down more than normal I'd suggest removing the mowing deck from the mower and checking to be sure all the pulleys and blade spindles are spinning freely. It's actually fairly simple to remove the deck, just four clips and remove the blade belt on my mower. If your mower is 5 years old or more, it's a good time to go ahead and replace the belts. Grab the manual for your mower and I'd also suggest taking a few photos of how the belts are routed to make putting the new belts on much easier. Be sure to flip the deck over and be sure there isn't any twine or other material wrapped around the blades or blade shafts.
In an effort to save a few pennies, Tuff Torq only installs drain plugs on it's 'professional' use transaxles, so to drain the fluid on the K46 'consumer' version you have to remove the transaxle form the mower, remove the fill plug and turn the transaxle upside down. Tuff Torq will sell you a pair of drain plugs for the K46 transaxle, but you have to remove the transaxle from the tractor, drain it, split the case open, drill two holes in the bottom of the transaxle, tap threads into the two holes, install the drain plugs, reseal the two halves of the transaxle and reassemble it, wait 24-hours for the sealant to dry and then you can refill the transaxle and reinstall it in the mower. I'll just continue to turn the transaxle upside down in 200-hours of use when it's due for the next fluid change. I don't know what size the wheel bearings are, but I've done a bit of googling and found a set of bearings that MAY fit your tractor on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Cub-Cadet-Front-Bearings-Models/dp/B073YCXQV6 I also found a good video showing how to replace the wheel bushings with bearings on a John Deer mower and the Cub Cadet should be the same procedure. ua-cam.com/video/QG6cMT19YLI/v-deo.html Good luck with the project, please circle back and let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the info. I had done the grease fitting on the front wheels. I could not find any grease fittings on the rear wheels...do they not need to be greased?
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! There's no grease fittings on the rear wheels, just the one on each of the front wheels to keep the front axles lubricated and one on each of the two steering knuckles (look behind the front wheels). The rear wheels are attached to the transaxle (transmission + axle = transaxle), everything in the transaxle is lubricated by the hydraulic drive system fluid.
On my XT1, I found that the rear wheels on the deck had a grease zerk. Edit, I just went to look and it's the front deck wheels. Odd with plastic wheels.
Yea, I saw those zerk-ish plastic tubes on the wheel hubs and decided to leave them alone. Given that the tubes don't have any kind of check ball like an actual zero fitting and given the loose tolerances between the plastic wheel and the axel bolt, I am concerned that any grease added to these wheels will quickly turn into a dirt/grease paste and actually cause more wear than not greasing the wheels. they are not listed as grease points in my manual and the wheels and axel bolts are pretty cheap so I'm not too concerned about replacing them if they wear out.
Yes, I have the fabricated mower deck with the wider wheels on all four corners. They accept grease through those plastic zerks just fine. It is recommended to grease them every 10 hours.
Thanks for these important tips. I have a 2016 or 2017 Cub Cadet XT2-LX46, and an old Cub Cadet LT -1022 tri-blade lawn tractor from either the late '90's or early '00's (it has the old off white rounded hood). Do you know if the LT -1022 transmission can use the same fluid change? I noticed a slight slip starting up a 10˚ grade. Not bad and barely noticeable.... for now.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! From my experience with my old Sears tractor and my Cub Cadet I do feel like the lubrication is essential for the proper operation and lifespan of the hydrostatic transaxles on all riding mowers. If you are having problems with yours, or if you have never changed the fluid then changing the fluid may fix the issues you are having or at the very least add considerable life to the unit. This is my first Cub Cadet, so I'm sorry but I can't help you with the LT-1022 except to recommend that you change the fluid with the proper type.
To the best of my knowledge the pre 2010 mowers used Hydrogear 501 hydrostatics. Very similar to the K46 and yes you can use either 10W30 or 15W50 synthetic oil in either transaxle. I had an early 90’s Husqvarna with the Hydrogear 501 and it called for 15W50 Mobil1 synthetic oil.
I will do a video the next time I need to change the fluid, but that could be another year or more. I learned how to change the fluid from UA-cam videos, but I had to watch several because each one had a few helpful bits, but no single video had all the information.
Great helpful video ! My steering wheel on my xt1 is not centered as it used to be with tires can you tell me how to adjust the rods ? Thanks in advance !!
Hey Larry, I haven't noticed the steering being off on mine, but your idea to adjust the rods should work. First thing I'd do is check to see if either rod is bent and straighten it out if it is. Secondly, I'd try removing the steering wheel first to see if it could be repositioned and reinstalled to straighten it out. If the splines on the steering wheel won't let it be repositioned then I'd get both wheels pointing straight ahead and measure the distance between the front and rear of the two front wheels. I don't know if they are set straight ahead from the factory or if there is a slight amount of toe-in or toe-out. Then adjust each steering rod the same number of turns until the wheel points straight and the measurements between the two wheels (front and back) are the same. It may take a little trial and error, but it should be pretty simple. Let us know how it goes and please subscribe!
The steering wheel shaft has a 360* spline just remove the wheel and reposition it straight, mine came from the store with the wheel a bit off center but the wheels were ok just sloppy assembly as the bolt holding the wheel to the shaft was not properly tightened and there was a bit of up and down play with the steering wheel.
Hows the mulch kit on this mower work for you? I'm considering buying a tractor like this but have read a lot of bad reviews on the mulch kits. Mostly bad fit on the plug and grass leaking out everywhere.
Hey Mark! I heard the same complaints and I don't see what all the fuss is about. If you pause the video about 24-seconds in you can see that some grass does get stuffed between the mulching plug and mower deck. The same thing happens with the bagging kit, a little grass test stuck there and it's no big deal. I usually bag in the spring after the first scalp cut and a few times in the fall to pick up the leaves. I might empty the bags a dozen times and maybe a handful or two of grass/leaves gets past the bagging kit adapter. It's very minor and no big deal. I'm really impressed with how well built the mounting for the bagging kit is made and the large diameter ductwork has never clogged, unlike the bagging kit on my previous mower.
@@rC-zv9lz Thanks for watching! As it happens, the clip on the trailing edge of my my plastic mulching plug broke off sometime this summer and the plug doesn't fit as snugly as it used to. Not a problem when mowing grass, but then I tried to mulch leaves this fall a lot of leaves got blown past the mulch plug rather than getting chopped up. I only take the mulching plug off once or twice a year so I ended up making it fit really tightly with zip ties. ua-cam.com/video/IEbKVMpT7qg/v-deo.html
Or could you direct me to the info you found online both from tuff torq and also on how to remove the transaxle? This video was extremely well done. Bravo.
I watched a few UA-cam videos on draining and refilling a Tuff Torx transaxle and didn't encounter any problems doing mine. I will do a very detailed video covering every aspect of the procedure the next time I service the transmission at about 200-250 hours of service. It's not difficult, but be sure you have everything on hand before you dig in. I'd recommend buying a new fill plug, vent cap and three quarts of Cub Cadet Hydrostatic fluid (I bought the fluid locally and ordered the caps on Amazon). Basic tools like wrenches and sockets and there are a few torx bits (size 20 if I recall correctly) are needed. The only 'specialty' tool I used was a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the transmission fan (Harbor Tools to the rescue). The bolts that hold the rear wheels on were very tight on my mower. I removed them easily with an impact wrench, but if you don't have one, then loosen them slightly before you jack the rear of the mower in the air and start disassembling everything. I did the job with a floor jack and a pair of jack stands, but you could improvise with any scissor or bottle jack and wood blocks. Make sure you have everything you need and take your time, give yourself 2-4 hours to do the job the first time. Things I learned from servicing the transaxle: I refilled the transaxle via the fill plug and reinstalled the old fill plug temporarily and tried purging the air out of the transmission by turning the input shaft with a 1/2" electric drill. Some air was removed and I added a bit more fluid and thought I had it refilled using only 1.5 quarts of fluid, so I installed the new fill cap and put everything back together. The electric drill may have helped, but the tractor moved erratically and reverse was very slow at first. After driving the mower forward and backward with the transmission engaged and with the bypass lever pulled out (the lever that sticks out the back of the mower) the mower began to move as it should. The fill plug is totally inaccessible once the transaxle is reinstalled, but you can get to the vent cap. I pried out the old vent cap and used a long tube on the end of a funnel and gradually added another quart of fluid to raise the level slightly above the max level. IMHO, it's better to slightly overfill the transmission by a few MM than to not have enough fluid. I cleaned the area around the vent cap with some brake cleaner on a rag, installed a new vent cap and the mower is performing perfectly. There's just enough room so shine a flashlight past the battery and see the vent cap so after mowing the yard a few times I can see where a tiny bit of fluid has seeped out of the vent cap, confirming that there's plenty of fluid in the transaxle.
Good video, just want to point out two things concerning the oil you used and the reasoning. A. That is NOT a synthetic oil. It is a synthetic blend - meaning partial synthetic, and the rest conventional. B. Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1975. You should read up on it. It is 100% ILLEGAL to void a warranty for using aftermarket parts (to include oil) unless they can PROVE that the aftermarket part caused the failure. The only caveat to this is if they provide these "parts" (i.e. oil/oil changes) for free - they being the manufacture. Just because a dealer may have a program for free oil changes does not mean you have to use their program if you don't want to. Unless they are using Amsoil or Redline, I will do my own oil changes - with Amsoil or Redline.
Hey Sissy, the vent cap on my transaxle has a black rubber cap that looks like it might unscrew, but it does not. On my mower, under the rubber cap there is a plastic plug with a vent hole that is nearly impossible to remove without damaging it. that's why I went ahead and bought a replacement vent cap before I worked on mine. If yours has a screw on cap then your mower may not have the same transaxle as mine. The Cub Cadet Transaxle fluid is close to the viscosity of 30wt motor oil, the gear oil I'm familiar with is much thicker and has a viscosity of 90wt. It's VERY important that you use only the correct fluid/oil for your transaxle or you may damage the unit. If you're not certain about what to use and how to replace the fluid/oil, then might be best to have a shop do the work for you.
Quick question, is it normal for the front wheels to sort of wobble on the axle/spindle? I just received the same exact set up but a 2024 and after going over everything, before operating, I happen to notice there’s an awful lot of play as if I need to pry off the plastic cap and tighten is down. - Thought I’d ask someone with the knowledge before prying stuff off already. 😅 Thanks.
Hmm, hadn't heard of that issue before. Is the play where the spindle pivots to steer the mower or between the wheel and axle? Some models have ball bearings on the front wheels and those tend to be pretty snug fit, other models have bronze bushings pressed into the front wheels and it's normal for those to have a little play in them. Either way, be sure to grease the wheels and spindles at least once a season.
@@Koolbob2 bought a grease gun and some grease. I bought the only grease that seemed to be thick red stuff. High temp something. Any preferred preferences? -Thank you.
@@gregbeck906 I bought one of those mini grease guns and there are only a few options with the cartridges for the gun. I don't recall what's in there now, but it may be the same red grease you are using.
Coming from a single cylinder engine in my previous mower, the twin in this mower feels like a beast. I watched the cub Cadet video on "Intellipower" and it looks like it's simply an electronically controlled governor rather than a mechanical one. ua-cam.com/video/HlcWWz9-X04/v-deo.htmlsi=yOm3tPXpL88Fv-Vm
Be careful with Bob’s modifications because they will be an issue if an accident occurs. Voiding or modifying safety protections are a No-No. I had a Craftsman ride-On for 23 years with very little basic maintenance. The only issue was rusting on the deck after 18 or 19 years. Gave the mower away and bought a XT2-LX46 in 2022. It’s a beast!
Thanks for watching. My Craftsman 'only' lasted 16-years before the engine block cracked when an engine case bolt under the flywheel came loose and came into contact with the flywheel. So far the XT2 is a great mower. I never had to made any changes to my Craftsman mowers safety systems, but the overly sensitive seat switch on my XT2 made the mower unusable because it would shut off every few feet. I appreciate the value of the seat safety switch, that's why I did not bypass it, but reduced its sensitivity. If I lift one butt cheek off the seat the mower still shuts off :). The mower already allows for mowing in reverse from the factory, I just eliminated the need to turn the key and push the button to enable the feature every time the mower is started/re-started or the seat safety switch is activated.
@@Koolbob2thanks for the reply Bob. I wish both of us well as we enjoy the quality and dependability of the Cub Cadet mower we have. I wasn’t happy to hear some of the comments regarding issues with the K46 transmission and don’t look forward to doing the maintenance on this part. The only upgrade for mine will be the addition of a set of teeth painted on the bonnet because this is a beast of a machine! 👍🇨🇦👨🦳
Thanks for posting, I appreciate your opinion, no need for insults. New riding mowers have a number of great safety systems, created by engineers and lawyers to minimize lawsuits and to protect users from injury. There are many videos on already on UA-cam specifically dedicated to bypassing these systems. As I stated in the video, I am not recommending that all uses should modify the safety systems on their mowers, however I did share what I chose to do to my mower in order to make it more functional given my weight (165lbs). I think seat safety systems are a great idea, but the seat switch is much too sensitive and the mower cuts off on the slightest incline, when I hit a bump or shift my weight to one side to help a spinning rear wheel gain traction. So I modified the switch to reduce it's sensitivity, but still function as intended. Even with my modification, the engine still tries to cut off a few times when mowing, but at least it's no longer trying to kill the engine 20 times when I mow my yard. If I get out of the seat without disengaging the blades and setting the parking brake, the engine still cuts off as intended. I did not disable the seat switch, I reduced it's sensitivity. The mower already allows users to mow while backing up by turning the ignition switch to a special position and pushing a button. By removing the short wire that connects the reverse position switch to the mower I am able to mow in reverse without having to repeatedly re-engage the reverse mowing feature every time the still overly sensitive seat switch tries to cut off the mower. If the seat switch was properly engineered to accommodate operators of all weights, I would be able to engage the reverse mowing feature once and then mow the yard uninterrupted. Unfortunately this is not the case so I am sharing my solution to the problem(s).
Earl, Bob was very clear on why he has made some modifications. He was also very clear, stating several times in the video, he was not recommending anyone to make these changes. The engineers of these safety features cannot take into account all the variables that people have who use these machines. The seat safety switch sensitivity and Bob's weight were not compatible. Bob made it less sensitive without changing the purpose of the switch. It still did what it was designed to do. Removing the reverse lockout switch was his decision. Again, he said he was not recommending this. Don't tell us that you have never done anything that was against safety precautions. We've all have done this. Have you ever jaywalked? End of comment.
I have an XT1 and LOVE it. Your videos have been a great help to me. Thank you for posting them.
Just changed my transmission out on the 2015 XT2 version. $725. Excellent video! Very informative.
omg I'm so glad I saw this video. the backup cutoff override button is annoying. I have kids and a pet but I make sure they are not outside when I mow the lawn. Now I know I can pull that wire to allow me to mow going backwards. THANK YOU!!! You rock!
Yesssss!!!!! Highly highly Agree with the Backup Situation!!!!!! Absolutely Crappy mechanical Situation!!!!
I have a 2016 Cub Cadet XT2 LX46 FAB. This model came with a K46v auto-locking differential. I removed the transaxle at 93 hours and drained the old fluid out. I was dark and nasty looking. I bought the Tuff-Tech 5w-50 synthetic that Turff Torque recommends and installed just over 2 liters which is what drained out. "Life Time" fluid is a joke. Life time means it will last through the warranty period. It's the very same thing with autos. I disabled the safety switch under the seat because when I would turn around to see if a car was coming when hauling leaves down the road, the engine would quit. Also, I removed the steering gears and lifted the shaft to lube the bushings at the top and especially the one at the bottom. They were totally dry. I lube the steering gears with Red'N'Tacky grease and blow the dust and debris off after every mowing. The tractor has 135 hours and the gears show no wear whatsoever. Leaving them dry will definitely wear them out quicker.
Excellent video! One tip I'll add, when changing the transmission fluid the best way to purge the air is to pull out the transmission locking lever and roll the tractor back and forth about 10 times then re engage the lever ,start up the tractor and shift from forward to reverse about 10 times then check the fluid level and refill if needed and you are good to go. Best Regards, Jay
Thanks! I did engage/release the locking lever a bunch of times while spinning the transaxle with a 1/2" electric drill. It got a lot of air out and I added more fluid to the transaxle, reinstalled it and ran the tractor for a while and everything worked great so I fully seated the fill plug and called the project done. I had used only 1.5qt of the three quarts of fluid I bought, but I wasn't too concerned since others on the internet had used between 1.5 and 2.5qt. But...the first time I mowed a week later the mower backed out of the shed fine and then ran really slow in forward and no reverse. I kept engaging forward and reverse for about 10 seconds and the forward speed gradually increased to normal and reverse began to work as before. The fill plug is inaccessible when the transaxle is mounted in the mower, so I added nearly another quart via the vent port to just slightly above the proper level. My thinking being that any excess fluid can escape via the vent port. I've mowed at least 10 times since then and everything is working perfectly and a minuscule amount of fluid has come out of the vent. Next time I'll run the transaxle with a drill until I get at least 2qt of new fluid in it, fully seat the fill plug, install the transaxle and try your suggestion of rolling the tractor as well as running the mower for quite a bit longer engaging/disengaging the locking lever and driving forward/reverse and recheck/refill via the vent port. I'll let it settle for at least overnight and recheck/top off as needed via the vent port.
You are an example! After I watch your video I'll change the hydrostat oil. Thanks for a very good and iformative video. Greetings from Sweden.
Absolutely fantastic information. Thank you
I know it’s only been a year and you probably don’t have enough hours on it to replace the trans fluid again but if you did it and made a detailed video of the transmission removal and the entire process your video would get soooo many views and you would be my savior.
Also does yours have the k46 or tl200?
Do a search on UA-cam. There are several detailed videos on the procedure to change the transaxle fluid. It is not too difficult, just a bit time consuming.
I have the same seat issue and I’m 220 lbs. . I wish the key was in a different place, I’ve bumped it with my knee and stopped the motor so many times. I’m thinking of adding a switch to the headlights. I rarely move it in the dark and no need to power the lights all the time. I need to change the trans oil soon. Keeping the linkages clear of any dried vegetation helps a lot in the working of the forward and reverse movement.
I know this is an older video, but I just got a club mower and I found this to be extremely helpful and informative. Thank you!
Outstanding advice on transaxle service. The K46 gets a bad rap in my humble opinion as it’s a light duty consumer grade unit that is often over tasked. Maintenance is key to longevity. I too have this transaxle in my 2012 LTX1042KW and it’s been going strong approaching 400 hours. I change the fluid at the end of every season as oil is cheap and the unit is not. Long out of warranty I use Mobil1 15W50 V-Twin synthetic motorcycle oil. Tuff Torq specifically recommended this oil for its detergent properties and additives as used in motorcycle wet clutches. Hope more owners take your advice and preform the transaxle service.
I agree, the transaxle should last a long time with adequate maintenance. The next time I service mine I'm going to drill and tap the case for drain plugs so it will be so much easier to service in the future.
@@Koolbob2 It’s my understanding that there is a replaceable filter and another magnet in the lower case. When you crack it open to add the drain plugs you’ll have access to them for cleaning or replacement. Your transaxle should give you many years of good service. I personally would enjoy a video of your future upgrade if you are so inclined.
@@scottp2462 I'll definitely make a video next time I service the K46.
You are correct about the seat shutoff switch being sensitive. I am over 200 pounds, but often have it shut off on me when I am positioning the hose to do a clean out of the mower deck, which I do after almost every mowing. Great advice in how to keep the switch, but make it a lot less sensitive. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! I'm so glad to hear the video is helpful and that I'm not the only one who thinks the seat switch is too sensitive.
I’m 225 and still have this seat activate the disengagement. 🥴👍🇨🇦👨🦳
So glad I watched this. I just bought a new XT1 50 Fab and wondered if I needed to grease the steering gears. Great info, brother. Thanks so much.
Thanks for taking a moment to let me know the video was helpful! yea, I thought they looked like they needed greasing too, but the manual says NO and it makes sense if you think about how much abrasive dirt and grit the grease would attract. Happy mowing!
Steering is much easier if you do.
bad advice. better to lub that part. it steel on steel rubbing !
Well done Sir! Thank you for gift of experience and knowledge.
Thank you for all the great tips. I just bought a new XT2 LX42 mower.
thanks for leaving a comment and congratulations on your new mower. I'm still loving my XT2 and it's still running and mowing perfectly.
Great video,very informative. I've the older version of this mower,the ltx1040. It's been a good mower over the last 260 hours. My pto engagement handle bent and needed replacement. I've got the old style low back seat,but I may tryin locate one like yours. It looks very comfortable. I also bypassed the reverse mow lock out.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, it's good to know your mower install going strong. The high back seat is really comfortable, but my lawn has a lot of sloped areas and I'm frequently leaning to one side or the other and the arm rest get in the way so I always leave them folded upright. If your lawn is flat and you're going to be mowing for an hour or so, you may enjoy the armrest, otherwise I'd recommend a comfortable high back seat without the extra expense of the armrest. I see that there are many to choose from on Amazon and eBay, but I'd check with any local places that sell or service mowers to see if they have a used one.
I just watch another guy greasing his steering gears on a XT1 50 ...but u make alot of sence thanks...PS I just bought an LT50...
Yea, the DIY/cheapskate in me wants to be sure to perform all the maintenance I can on this mower to make it last. Initially I thought the steering gears needed grease, but the manual says not to grease them and after seeing how much dust and grit gets on the mower each time I use it not greasing the steering makes sense.
@@Koolbob2 lol
Excellent video
13:10....oil leak.....
'Permatex Red' high heat threadlocker works great in fastening the threaded fittings and sealing leaky oil change hoses.
Under the forward and reverse peddle the grass build up won't let it move backwards !
Yes, this is a design flaw that many mowers share. I use a leaf blower to blow off my mower before I put it back in the shed and I make sure to blow in the area under the pedal. After mulching the last of the leaves in the fall, I service the mower before putting it away for the winter and I clear any grass that is under the pedal that the blower missed.
Excellent job! Very clear explanations! And yes, add me to your lawn fan club.
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Last year in 2021 I looked at the Cub Cadet John Deere and Husqvarna I went with the Craftsman T240 Turn Tight and so glad I did
Glad to hear you found the best mower for your needs. I looked at the same brands you did and the deciding factor for me was access to a full-service Cub Cadet dealer in town whereas JD, Sears and Husqvarna dealers are all 60-miles away from my home.
I had to make the same upgrades and modifications to the Craftsman mower I had before this one. It lasted 15-years before the engine block cracked and I sold the Craftsman as-is for $150.
Bob, your lawn looks great. I have the same grass and I think the short cut looks far better than my 3" cut. It is hot here and too late to cut it short without stressing the grass. I will start doing the short cut early next spring when the temperature is much cooler. Really enjoyed this video and how you made your mower more conducive to your body weight.
Thank you! The fella we bought the house from had the yard sodded with cheap common Bermuda, but there were a few patches of Zoyza here and there in the sod. The Zoyza has slowly taken over in a few places and it looks so much better. One of these days I'll kill off the remaining Bermuda and resod with Zoyza.
This is incredibly helpful! Thank you! I am considering this machine but I only weigh 110 lbs soaking wet. I'm not sure I want to start modifying safety features, but at least I know how now if I decide to do so.
You can take the switch out of the seat and zip tie/tape it up so it just thinks someone is sitting on it all the time.. You can easily undo it anytime
Good and concise information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know the video was helpful.
Great video
I found some of those tips to be helpful
Thanks for the video and the great information.
Thankyou .
Very informative information.
I have a 2021 XT2 Club Cadet with the rear discharge and catcher.
I'm having Problems too with sensors.
The cutting blades keep stopping.
I have to dismount and check the catcher lugs..and see that they are all the way up.
Yes then the reverse switch need resetting.
Then the position on the seat.
I'm working my way through each sensor .
I do not want to disable them entirely like you say. Ive done 80 hours and @50 hours
New Air filter new oil filter and oil change.
New inline fuel filter.
I didn't know about transmission oil change.
Like and Subscribed from New Zealand
Thankyou.
Will look at transmission.
Will remove the mower deck while im at it
(Transaxle)
I'm still really enjoying my CubCadet, especially after my mods and upgrades. Nearly every riding mower on the market in the USA uses the TuffTorque transaxle and it's a shame they don't install drain plugs on every model transaxle they make and recommend regular fluid changes when they know it greatly extends transaxle life.
Thanks for sharing. I'm going to service mine and you've given me some great ideas.
Thanks, glad to help another DIYer. Please subscribe, I’m trying to get to 1,000 subscribers! PS-great avatar!
Very helpful for any MTD tractor and any with a TuffTorq tranny.
Im going to buy a new mower and I've been in love with this cubcadet for two years now I have the money to buy it..but several people have told me not to get a John Deer or huskavarna and so on just don't get one with a plastic transmission. Now I'm more confused then ever . I have a sears craftsman that just need starter but getting someone to help is another story. It has over 1500 hours and still runs great..
My Craftsman mower wasn't anything special and it lasted 16-years on my hilly, bumpy yard. 1,500 hours is a long time, I'm sure whatever you buy will last you a long time. I researched John Deer, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet and Craftsman. They are all more alike than different in my opinion, they all have Tuff-Torq transaxles and either Kohler, Briggs and Stratton or Tecumseh engines. I almost bought a Husqvarna because they have a 42" model with a locking rear differential which should help mowing on steep hills. I really liked the Cub Cadet features and price and there is an authorized Cub Cadet dealer in town with a full service shop. I could have saved a hundred bucks ordering my Cub Cadet on-line, but I got it from the local shop and they delivered it assembled and ready to run. They also had all the supplies in stock for me to change my transaxle fluid and have been great to work with.
Excellent Video!
Omg I can relate so much to this, I am also lightweight so when I hit a bump in my lawn it shuts off the engine then it turns back on and makes it run rough so that’s why I disables it
What is the "LIFE OF THE TRACTOR" ?
These companies are so full of bullsh*t it's amazing.
The "life of the tractor' for this average consumer is probably 5 or 6 years for most consumers because the average consumer won't bother to read the manual and follow the proper maintenance guidelines and when something breaks they will blame it on poor manufacturing and planned obsolescence.
I bought my first riding mower from Sears (it was the cheapest 42" model available). I not only mow the yard with my mower, but I also pull a lawn aerator and a 500-lb capacity utility cart that I use to haul logs, branches and debris when I remove unwanted or fallen trees. I changed the oil, filter, air filter, fuel filter and spark plug at the end of the mowing season every year and probably changed the drive and deck belts three or four times and I got 16-years out of it. I thought about filling the engine block crack with JB Weld or having it welded, but I decided to treat myself to a new mower with a more powerful engine for hauling.
I'll use the new mower just as hard and take care of it just as well and I expect "life of the tractor' to be 12-years minimum.
Great information! Thanks
Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know the video was helpful!
I have to get off my mower way to much to have seat switch. That went first, I made many years without one and plan on doing so the rest of my life. I gale I watched I didn't know about the trans oil change so I will jump on that soon. Of course they don't want people to change the oil in them, that's more money for them when they get replaced. I had to put tubes in all my tires, they wouldn't hold air very long at all. Also the the back up switch will be going now that I now how to.
Well done
I was so glad to see your video as I had questions. I have the 2015 XT-2 line & the LX 46 series. I bought it used today with 800 hrs on it. As cleaning it up I noticed ALOT: of dried-up oil on top and all over the transaxle. Was told by a lawnmower mech over the phone, that it is a sealed unit and that it has that vent port with a cover on top. So how/where do I drain any old fluid from it and add fresh fluid into it? Access point to fill it up? Went to the links you had available for us and keep getting error codes. Greatly appreciate the help from you or anyone knowledgeable in this manner!
Congratulations on your new-ish mower! There isn’t a drain on the transaxle, Tuff Torq considers the original fluid to be good for the life of the transaxle. But the life of the transaxle can be extended considerably by changing the fluid at 50-hrs and again every 200-hours. My recommendation is to buy a new fill plug, vent cap and 3qts of the appropriate fluid (check the model number of your transaxle and look up the right fluid). Remove the axle, pop out the fill plug and turn it over to drain. Refill, purge the air bubbles and when you are sure it’s full go ahead and use the mower. I was certain mine was completely purged and then it started slipping the second time I mowed the lawn. I removed the vent cap, added another 1/2qt until it was full all the way and installed the new vent cap. A little excess fluid leaked out the vent cap after a few mowings and I cleaned it up with engine degreaser. I don’t expect to change the fluid again for a few years.
I put my Cub XT2 on jack stands and removed the rear wheels. There are only (4) bolts holding the transaxle in with a couple of small screws on the sides of the frame for anti-rotation. Take the battery out to access the drive belt and linkage. Put a jack under the transaxle and when everything is unbolted you can slide it out easily. It only weighs 40-50 lbs. Once out, clean the area around the fill plug so no dirt enters when the fill cap is removed. Tip the transaxle upside down and rest it on a 5-gallon pale. Let it drain overnight. Measure how much fluid came out. I should be about 2-liters. Some will remain in the pump and motor. I bought the actual Tuff-Tech 5w-50 synthetic fluid. Running great at 135 hours.
“Factory sealed and requires no maintenance” is code for “the transmission might last 200 hours” as it applies to the K46. I bought a Cub Cadet XT2 but mine has a K58.
Hi Ted, I was just waiting to see if someone else had a different transaxle in theirs. What year and Model, series is yours? I have a 2015 XT-2, LX46 Signature Cut. I'm not sure what transaxle may be in mine yet as the Sticker is missing and bought it used. I also was really wondering what the difference between the K46 & the K58. I'm looking to find something that has more torq/beefier so to speak that would "bolt right up to my tractor" without and fabrication. Thx so much for your time.
I have the K46 in my 2012 LTX1042KW and it’s been going strong almost 400 hours. Granted my property is very flat with a well established lawn and I do not use any implements other than the occasional pull behind cart. I have changed the fluid in the unit multiple times and use Mobil1 15W50 synthetic motorcycle oil as recommended by Tuff Torq. It’s a light duty transaxle and maintenance is the key.
Great video bud.
Good video Bob. I paid $1,800 CDN for a new Trans to be installed in my JD X320 after 288 hours.
I had the dealer do it due to Warranty concerns. I will change out the Tranny fluid as suggested.
Don't know what series trans it is at the moment. My last JD Hydrostatic lasted over 600. Seems to me it was a K57??? I don't necessarily agree with your no-grease on Sector steering gear. I have found that the pinion (small) gear can be reversed if you drill it through (there is a land to be removed) and give a 'new' wear area.
Thanks for watching! Once you understand how a hydrostatic transaxle works you realize just how much stress it puts on the fluid. Next time I change the fluid in mine I may drill and tap the case so I can add drain plugs. Good to know the steering area can be reversed if it becomes worn.
I bought a new 2016 XT2 LX42 KH in May 2017. It has 320 hours and runs great with original fluid in transmission. It does get annual maintenance at the CC dealer. Warranty replaced (free) a leaky engine oil drain line, a leaking fuel pump.
Cub Cadet website, Warranty FAQs - What circumstances would void the warranty? 1-Lack of maintenance and/or improper maintenance as described in the operator's manual. 4-Any product that has been altered or modified in a manner not approved. (plus 2 other ones)
My Tractor forum - "was told [by local cub dealer] that a "sealed" trans axle is not meant to be serviced, and for that reason, any work done, even it was maintenance, would void my warranty on the unit."
My last mower was a cheapo Craftsman and it lasted almost 17-years which is impressive when you consider my yard is fairly large and some slopes are right at the limits of what can be semi-safely mowed with a riding mower. I have to shift my weight all the way to the edge of the seat on some slopes to keep the mower upright and/or keep one rear wheel from spinning. I do all my own maintenance and replace the oil, filter, spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter every fall when I'm done mulching the leaves. The blades get sharpened four or five times a season and I degrease the front hubs and steeling knuckles whenever I sharpen the blades. In addition to mowing, the LT2 is also used to pull a 100-lb+ core aerator over the entire lawn a few times a season and I tow my garden trailer full of logs, limbs, stumps etc down our steep 220-ft driveway whenever I'm doing tree removal. I also pull the trailer full of dirt, sand, mulch, etc. The trailer is rated for 500-lbs and I try not to overload it. All of the aeration and towing puts a lot of stress on the transaxle, so I don't mind giving it a little extra maintenance.
I have cub cadet lt1042 series 1000 tractor and my hydrostatic transmission is making a whining sound is that something I should be concerned about
Like most hydrostatic transaxles, my previous Craftsman mower's manual said the unit was sealed and didn't require any service. After many years of use the hydrostatic transaxle got so loud that it was nearly as loud as the engine. It also pulsed and jerked when going up hills. At this point a lot of folks just buy a new transaxle, but I decided to change the oil in the unit to see if it would help. The old oil looked like metallic grey paint. Fresh oil made it run much better, though it was still louder than when it was new. After that experience I will always change the transaxle fluid periodically, even if the manual says it's not necessary.
I have an XT1 and have never liked the mulch cover. I have used a bolt with large washer to try to hold it down. I see the metal bar you have holding yours down, can you explain how you did that?
Thanks for watching! The wire rod came with the mulch cover and it does a decent job of holding the back end of the mulch cover down, but I kept having problems with the mulch cover raising up in the middle and allowing big chunks of grass to be discharged from under the mulch cover. I made another video showing how to fix the mulch cover once and for all. I used plastic zip-ties because I sometimes switch to bagging, but if you want to mulch 100% of the time use metal ties instead. Here's a link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/IEbKVMpT7qg/v-deo.html
@@Koolbob2 I will do the same, thank you.
If you’re short it’s really hard to push the brake to start. Dealers only solution is to attach a block of wood to the brake! I want to attach a push button switch on the dash to the brake switch. All safety switches would function as intended but you could start this thing easily! How a😊bout a video?
To which side should the cub cadet xt2 pr95 be tilted when cleaning the cutting unit? Lift the side where the fuel filler hole is? Thank you.
I've never cleaned the underside of the mowing deck on any mower. I just use my blower to blow off the whole mower, including the top of the mowing deck before storing it. In order to remove the blades for sharpening I raise the mower deck to it's highest position, set the brake and place a hydraulic car jack under the center of the front axel and lift it as high as it will go. I'd recommend using the same method if you want to clean the underside of the mowing deck.
Great video!!!!
Thanks! Glad to help!
Question: I have an older but the same unit as yours. It's really been an excellent mower in the past. Problem: Why does the engine bog down now as I engage the blades. The rpm's will gradually speed back up after engaged, what's the problem ? Thanks
It's normal for the engine to slow down a bit load of getting the blades up to speed is applied. However, if you feel it's slowing down more than normal I'd suggest removing the mowing deck from the mower and checking to be sure all the pulleys and blade spindles are spinning freely. It's actually fairly simple to remove the deck, just four clips and remove the blade belt on my mower. If your mower is 5 years old or more, it's a good time to go ahead and replace the belts. Grab the manual for your mower and I'd also suggest taking a few photos of how the belts are routed to make putting the new belts on much easier. Be sure to flip the deck over and be sure there isn't any twine or other material wrapped around the blades or blade shafts.
Ok, looks like I have a little work to do, thanks@@Koolbob2
How did you change the transmission fluid? Also what type of bearings do your front wheels have on a am XT2.
In an effort to save a few pennies, Tuff Torq only installs drain plugs on it's 'professional' use transaxles, so to drain the fluid on the K46 'consumer' version you have to remove the transaxle form the mower, remove the fill plug and turn the transaxle upside down. Tuff Torq will sell you a pair of drain plugs for the K46 transaxle, but you have to remove the transaxle from the tractor, drain it, split the case open, drill two holes in the bottom of the transaxle, tap threads into the two holes, install the drain plugs, reseal the two halves of the transaxle and reassemble it, wait 24-hours for the sealant to dry and then you can refill the transaxle and reinstall it in the mower. I'll just continue to turn the transaxle upside down in 200-hours of use when it's due for the next fluid change.
I don't know what size the wheel bearings are, but I've done a bit of googling and found a set of bearings that MAY fit your tractor on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Cub-Cadet-Front-Bearings-Models/dp/B073YCXQV6 I also found a good video showing how to replace the wheel bushings with bearings on a John Deer mower and the Cub Cadet should be the same procedure. ua-cam.com/video/QG6cMT19YLI/v-deo.html
Good luck with the project, please circle back and let me know how it goes.
Love Canada Merci Québec M.T.L ❤
Thanks for the info. I had done the grease fitting on the front wheels. I could not find any grease fittings on the rear wheels...do they not need to be greased?
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
There's no grease fittings on the rear wheels, just the one on each of the front wheels to keep the front axles lubricated and one on each of the two steering knuckles (look behind the front wheels). The rear wheels are attached to the transaxle (transmission + axle = transaxle), everything in the transaxle is lubricated by the hydraulic drive system fluid.
@@Koolbob2 Ahhh, yes. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question.
On my XT1, I found that the rear wheels on the deck had a grease zerk. Edit, I just went to look and it's the front deck wheels. Odd with plastic wheels.
Yea, I saw those zerk-ish plastic tubes on the wheel hubs and decided to leave them alone. Given that the tubes don't have any kind of check ball like an actual zero fitting and given the loose tolerances between the plastic wheel and the axel bolt, I am concerned that any grease added to these wheels will quickly turn into a dirt/grease paste and actually cause more wear than not greasing the wheels. they are not listed as grease points in my manual and the wheels and axel bolts are pretty cheap so I'm not too concerned about replacing them if they wear out.
Yes, I have the fabricated mower deck with the wider wheels on all four corners. They accept grease through those plastic zerks just fine. It is recommended to grease them every 10 hours.
Thanks for these important tips. I have a 2016 or 2017 Cub Cadet XT2-LX46, and an old Cub Cadet LT -1022 tri-blade lawn tractor from either the late '90's or early '00's (it has the old off white rounded hood). Do you know if the LT -1022 transmission can use the same fluid change? I noticed a slight slip starting up a 10˚ grade. Not bad and barely noticeable.... for now.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! From my experience with my old Sears tractor and my Cub Cadet I do feel like the lubrication is essential for the proper operation and lifespan of the hydrostatic transaxles on all riding mowers. If you are having problems with yours, or if you have never changed the fluid then changing the fluid may fix the issues you are having or at the very least add considerable life to the unit. This is my first Cub Cadet, so I'm sorry but I can't help you with the LT-1022 except to recommend that you change the fluid with the proper type.
To the best of my knowledge the pre 2010 mowers used Hydrogear 501 hydrostatics. Very similar to the K46 and yes you can use either 10W30 or 15W50 synthetic oil in either transaxle. I had an early 90’s Husqvarna with the Hydrogear 501 and it called for 15W50 Mobil1 synthetic oil.
Any chance you could do a video on changing the tranny fluid? That would be highly valuable!
I will do a video the next time I need to change the fluid, but that could be another year or more. I learned how to change the fluid from UA-cam videos, but I had to watch several because each one had a few helpful bits, but no single video had all the information.
Great helpful video ! My steering wheel on my xt1 is not centered as it used to be with tires can you tell me how to adjust the rods ? Thanks in advance !!
Hey Larry, I haven't noticed the steering being off on mine, but your idea to adjust the rods should work.
First thing I'd do is check to see if either rod is bent and straighten it out if it is.
Secondly, I'd try removing the steering wheel first to see if it could be repositioned and reinstalled to straighten it out.
If the splines on the steering wheel won't let it be repositioned then I'd get both wheels pointing straight ahead and measure the distance between the front and rear of the two front wheels. I don't know if they are set straight ahead from the factory or if there is a slight amount of toe-in or toe-out. Then adjust each steering rod the same number of turns until the wheel points straight and the measurements between the two wheels (front and back) are the same. It may take a little trial and error, but it should be pretty simple.
Let us know how it goes and please subscribe!
The steering wheel shaft has a 360* spline just remove the wheel and reposition it straight, mine came from the store with the wheel a bit off center but the wheels were ok just sloppy assembly as the bolt holding the wheel to the shaft was not properly tightened and there was a bit of up and down play with the steering wheel.
@@anthonymartin6831 Thanks for the info, I had suggested this might be an option and it's good to know the steering wheel can be realigned.
Hows the mulch kit on this mower work for you? I'm considering buying a tractor like this but have read a lot of bad reviews on the mulch kits. Mostly bad fit on the plug and grass leaking out everywhere.
Hey Mark! I heard the same complaints and I don't see what all the fuss is about. If you pause the video about 24-seconds in you can see that some grass does get stuffed between the mulching plug and mower deck. The same thing happens with the bagging kit, a little grass test stuck there and it's no big deal. I usually bag in the spring after the first scalp cut and a few times in the fall to pick up the leaves. I might empty the bags a dozen times and maybe a handful or two of grass/leaves gets past the bagging kit adapter. It's very minor and no big deal.
I'm really impressed with how well built the mounting for the bagging kit is made and the large diameter ductwork has never clogged, unlike the bagging kit on my previous mower.
@@Koolbob2 thanks for the video. I also created a bracket using heavy gauge wire that intends to hold down the mulch cover. Have a good day.
@@rC-zv9lz Thanks for watching! As it happens, the clip on the trailing edge of my my plastic mulching plug broke off sometime this summer and the plug doesn't fit as snugly as it used to. Not a problem when mowing grass, but then I tried to mulch leaves this fall a lot of leaves got blown past the mulch plug rather than getting chopped up. I only take the mulching plug off once or twice a year so I ended up making it fit really tightly with zip ties. ua-cam.com/video/IEbKVMpT7qg/v-deo.html
@@Koolbob2 thanks for the link. Keeping it simple, cheap and safe is the way to go. Definitely going to make some holes in the mulching plug. 😄
Can you make a video on how you changed the hydro fluid on this mower please??? I need to do mine and I have the same one as you
Or could you direct me to the info you found online both from tuff torq and also on how to remove the transaxle? This video was extremely well done. Bravo.
I watched a few UA-cam videos on draining and refilling a Tuff Torx transaxle and didn't encounter any problems doing mine. I will do a very detailed video covering every aspect of the procedure the next time I service the transmission at about 200-250 hours of service. It's not difficult, but be sure you have everything on hand before you dig in. I'd recommend buying a new fill plug, vent cap and three quarts of Cub Cadet Hydrostatic fluid (I bought the fluid locally and ordered the caps on Amazon). Basic tools like wrenches and sockets and there are a few torx bits (size 20 if I recall correctly) are needed. The only 'specialty' tool I used was a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the transmission fan (Harbor Tools to the rescue). The bolts that hold the rear wheels on were very tight on my mower. I removed them easily with an impact wrench, but if you don't have one, then loosen them slightly before you jack the rear of the mower in the air and start disassembling everything. I did the job with a floor jack and a pair of jack stands, but you could improvise with any scissor or bottle jack and wood blocks. Make sure you have everything you need and take your time, give yourself 2-4 hours to do the job the first time.
Things I learned from servicing the transaxle: I refilled the transaxle via the fill plug and reinstalled the old fill plug temporarily and tried purging the air out of the transmission by turning the input shaft with a 1/2" electric drill. Some air was removed and I added a bit more fluid and thought I had it refilled using only 1.5 quarts of fluid, so I installed the new fill cap and put everything back together. The electric drill may have helped, but the tractor moved erratically and reverse was very slow at first. After driving the mower forward and backward with the transmission engaged and with the bypass lever pulled out (the lever that sticks out the back of the mower) the mower began to move as it should. The fill plug is totally inaccessible once the transaxle is reinstalled, but you can get to the vent cap. I pried out the old vent cap and used a long tube on the end of a funnel and gradually added another quart of fluid to raise the level slightly above the max level. IMHO, it's better to slightly overfill the transmission by a few MM than to not have enough fluid. I cleaned the area around the vent cap with some brake cleaner on a rag, installed a new vent cap and the mower is performing perfectly. There's just enough room so shine a flashlight past the battery and see the vent cap so after mowing the yard a few times I can see where a tiny bit of fluid has seeped out of the vent cap, confirming that there's plenty of fluid in the transaxle.
how many hours do you have
Good question. I'm not at home so I don't know precisely, but about 120.
😌
Good video, just want to point out two things concerning the oil you used and the reasoning. A. That is NOT a synthetic oil. It is a synthetic blend - meaning partial synthetic, and the rest conventional. B. Magnuson Moss Warranty Act of 1975. You should read up on it. It is 100% ILLEGAL to void a warranty for using aftermarket parts (to include oil) unless they can PROVE that the aftermarket part caused the failure. The only caveat to this is if they provide these "parts" (i.e. oil/oil changes) for free - they being the manufacture. Just because a dealer may have a program for free oil changes does not mean you have to use their program if you don't want to. Unless they are using Amsoil or Redline, I will do my own oil changes - with Amsoil or Redline.
YOU SAY TRANS AXLE FLUID OR IS IT GEAR OIL OR ARE THEY THE SAME my fill plug is screw on
Hey Sissy, the vent cap on my transaxle has a black rubber cap that looks like it might unscrew, but it does not. On my mower, under the rubber cap there is a plastic plug with a vent hole that is nearly impossible to remove without damaging it. that's why I went ahead and bought a replacement vent cap before I worked on mine. If yours has a screw on cap then your mower may not have the same transaxle as mine.
The Cub Cadet Transaxle fluid is close to the viscosity of 30wt motor oil, the gear oil I'm familiar with is much thicker and has a viscosity of 90wt. It's VERY important that you use only the correct fluid/oil for your transaxle or you may damage the unit. If you're not certain about what to use and how to replace the fluid/oil, then might be best to have a shop do the work for you.
@@Koolbob2 next to that is a plug that is metal and you use a allen wrench to open it
@@Koolbob2 I only have 2 shops here in rural va and both tell me 6 months before they can even look at it .
@@Koolbob2 cub cadet is no help they have kept me on hold transferred me 4 times to someone else , I am still on hold with them after over 2 hours
Quick question, is it normal for the front wheels to sort of wobble on the axle/spindle?
I just received the same exact set up but a 2024 and after going over everything, before operating, I happen to notice there’s an awful lot of play as if I need to pry off the plastic cap and tighten is down.
- Thought I’d ask someone with the knowledge before prying stuff off already. 😅
Thanks.
Hmm, hadn't heard of that issue before. Is the play where the spindle pivots to steer the mower or between the wheel and axle? Some models have ball bearings on the front wheels and those tend to be pretty snug fit, other models have bronze bushings pressed into the front wheels and it's normal for those to have a little play in them. Either way, be sure to grease the wheels and spindles at least once a season.
@@Koolbob2 bought a grease gun and some grease.
I bought the only grease that seemed to be thick red stuff. High temp something.
Any preferred preferences?
-Thank you.
@@gregbeck906 I bought one of those mini grease guns and there are only a few options with the cartridges for the gun. I don't recall what's in there now, but it may be the same red grease you are using.
I am happy for you that you do not have "Intellipower"
Coming from a single cylinder engine in my previous mower, the twin in this mower feels like a beast. I watched the cub Cadet video on "Intellipower" and it looks like it's simply an electronically controlled governor rather than a mechanical one. ua-cam.com/video/HlcWWz9-X04/v-deo.htmlsi=yOm3tPXpL88Fv-Vm
Be careful with Bob’s modifications because they will be an issue if an accident occurs. Voiding or modifying safety protections are a No-No. I had a Craftsman ride-On for 23 years with very little basic maintenance. The only issue was rusting on the deck after 18 or 19 years. Gave the mower away and bought a XT2-LX46 in 2022. It’s a beast!
Thanks for watching. My Craftsman 'only' lasted 16-years before the engine block cracked when an engine case bolt under the flywheel came loose and came into contact with the flywheel. So far the XT2 is a great mower.
I never had to made any changes to my Craftsman mowers safety systems, but the overly sensitive seat switch on my XT2 made the mower unusable because it would shut off every few feet. I appreciate the value of the seat safety switch, that's why I did not bypass it, but reduced its sensitivity. If I lift one butt cheek off the seat the mower still shuts off :). The mower already allows for mowing in reverse from the factory, I just eliminated the need to turn the key and push the button to enable the feature every time the mower is started/re-started or the seat safety switch is activated.
@@Koolbob2thanks for the reply Bob. I wish both of us well as we enjoy the quality and dependability of the Cub Cadet mower we have. I wasn’t happy to hear some of the comments regarding issues with the K46 transmission and don’t look forward to doing the maintenance on this part. The only upgrade for mine will be the addition of a set of teeth painted on the bonnet because this is a beast of a machine! 👍🇨🇦👨🦳
I am a girl and interested to do all these things... I hope I will not sell my soul by doing alone "(- . -)"
Cub cadet.....nothing but junk......all I'm going to say.
Why are you telling people how to override safety features? They are meant to keep people safe. You are the problem.
Thanks for posting, I appreciate your opinion, no need for insults.
New riding mowers have a number of great safety systems, created by engineers and lawyers to minimize lawsuits and to protect users from injury. There are many videos on already on UA-cam specifically dedicated to bypassing these systems. As I stated in the video, I am not recommending that all uses should modify the safety systems on their mowers, however I did share what I chose to do to my mower in order to make it more functional given my weight (165lbs).
I think seat safety systems are a great idea, but the seat switch is much too sensitive and the mower cuts off on the slightest incline, when I hit a bump or shift my weight to one side to help a spinning rear wheel gain traction. So I modified the switch to reduce it's sensitivity, but still function as intended. Even with my modification, the engine still tries to cut off a few times when mowing, but at least it's no longer trying to kill the engine 20 times when I mow my yard. If I get out of the seat without disengaging the blades and setting the parking brake, the engine still cuts off as intended. I did not disable the seat switch, I reduced it's sensitivity.
The mower already allows users to mow while backing up by turning the ignition switch to a special position and pushing a button. By removing the short wire that connects the reverse position switch to the mower I am able to mow in reverse without having to repeatedly re-engage the reverse mowing feature every time the still overly sensitive seat switch tries to cut off the mower. If the seat switch was properly engineered to accommodate operators of all weights, I would be able to engage the reverse mowing feature once and then mow the yard uninterrupted. Unfortunately this is not the case so I am sharing my solution to the problem(s).
Earl, Bob was very clear on why he has made some modifications. He was also very clear, stating several times in the video, he was not recommending anyone to make these changes. The engineers of these safety features cannot take into account all the variables that people have who use these machines. The seat safety switch sensitivity and Bob's weight were not compatible. Bob made it less sensitive without changing the purpose of the switch. It still did what it was designed to do. Removing the reverse lockout switch was his decision. Again, he said he was not recommending this. Don't tell us that you have never done anything that was against safety precautions. We've all have done this. Have you ever jaywalked? End of comment.
@@kittyhawk7060 thank you.
Great video, thanks for the tips!