How A Suit Should Fit - Men's Suits Fit Guide - Gentleman's Gazette
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
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00:00 Introduction
You could hear it all over the place, fit matters the most, and while I wholeheartedly agree, the problem is, it’s rarely outlined what that thoroughly means.
00:56 Why Should You Care About Fit?
First of all, a well-fitting suit is almost as comfortable as wearing a sweater and sweatpants. Second of all, it makes you really stand out from the crowd and people will look at you and think you're really dapper but they can't pinpoint that it's a fit of your suit.
01:13 Why Does A Properly Fitting Suit Make You Look Better?
The answer is actually quite simple; a suit hides everything that's asymmetrical about your body and hides all the flaws, at the same time highlighting features such as your shoulders and your chest, giving you a natural v-shape that's very flattering and attractive.
02:08 What is a suit?
02:49 Collar
It should fit snugly against your neck without being overly tight and it should never stand away or gap. If you have a round shoulder the way I do, chances that your jackets gap more easily are much higher than if you have a straight posture. Because of that, you always have to go to the alterations tailor or talk to your made to measure provider or tailor and make sure you get a proper fit. The problem is when you stand, most jackets look good, the issue starts when you start moving when you lift your arms and you still want that jacket collar to sit tight against your shirt collar.
03:49 Shoulder
Ideally, you want the shoulder seam on top to be just slightly extended from the bone on your shoulder. Unlike a dress shirt which ends exactly at the bone, you want it to be slightly hanging over to give you a broader look and enable a range of movement because when you have multiple layers of fabric, the outer layer always has to be a little longer to be comfortable, you want the top part at your shoulder to be smooth and not puddling.
04:56 Armholes
Most armholes in suits are too big because suits are industrially made and they want to have one size that fits it all, the problem is if you have huge armholes, it may seem like it's more comfortable but it actually isn't because as soon as you move, your entire jacket moves with you and constricts you. On the other hand, if you have a tight armhole that ends just below your armpit, you can easily move and comfortably.
05:50 Chest
When it comes to a good fit of the chest it's always easy to see because some chests are fuller and they have more fabric that drapes well and for that, it's called Drape.
07:23 Vents
Today, most jackets have side vents, they are the most flattering. Ideally, you want high long vents that end exactly where your jacket pocket ends. The last hundred years, center vents have been in and out of fashion but originally, they were meant for horseback riding so unless you wear a jacket on the back of a horse, skip it.
08:13 Length
It's very important to get it right in the first place because even though you can physically change the length of the jacket, it will always look off if you do so. The proportions will simply not work and the location of your pockets will seem off as well as the buttoning point and therefore if you encounter something that is too short or too long simply leave it behind.
10:24 Sleeves
A sleeve should always hang very nicely without any wrinkles. If you see all the wrinkles chances are the sleeve pitch is wrong which means the way and the angle the sleeve was set in, that can be fixed by a tailor but they have to be quite skilled.
#howasuitshouldfit #suitsformen #notsponsored
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my mom is a tailor. i didnt realize until i was in college that my clothes all are fit and of good quality... bcuz she made all of my coats, suits, trousers... i am lucky...
Neat. How did she learn?
It took until college to learn that?
@@4runner4summer Things that never happened
@@onestepfromsuccess good point 🤣
This is what I've been looking for all these years! Every time I searched for "how a suit should fit", I got very vague guidelines like "it should feel comfortable". But Sven has done us all a favor and gone into the minutiae of the suit. This is just golden!
We're glad to have helped
When I volunteered at a museum and dressed in period costume, I was lucky that one of the 19th-century-style three-piece suits fit me almost perfectly. It was like wearing pajamas, because it was a wool suit. On days when I was tired at work, I would nearly fall asleep standing up. It was super comfortable.
Yeah I have had an incredible luck with quite a few used clothes. One was a morning coat, another a frock coat. You can make amazing finds sometimes
Mr. Schneider, you consistently put out quality videos. While other men's style youtubers have long since digressed into lifestyle, fitness, and business, you do not stray from the path. Thank you.
When UA-cam is gone, we, your subscribers, will surely keep following you.
Agreed 100
Sometimes it feels like having this source of info is unfair to my friends, but then again it also feels like a personal secret weapon so all's good
That's funny. You could also share it to keep things fair. ;)
Tom_Dow You can safely share it! As with many other things in life, the magic lies not in knowledge, but in effort 😉
It's not about who is teaching or what is being taught, it's about the person who is receiving the teaching. Most people would fail to implement, so you are safe.
The real expert for suits. All details covered, amazing!!!
Laguna celso
12:45 WOW I love the way you just casually levitate to show off the suit.
Thank you for this information. My 11 year old boys just joined an organization where they are required to wear a suit. At first they were against wearing one because it wouldn't "feel right", but after watching this and fitting the suit to them they love how it feels and want to wear it all the time. I think everyone should know how a suit should fit. Thank you so much Raphael.
I like almost all of our fellow style and personal development UA-cam channels, but there is something about your videos and about your calm attitude that makes you stand out!
Just finished the first minutes of the video, but I felt the need to let you know! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the inspiring words!
I am impressed, you give us a lot of helpful advice for quite a while now, and you still post frequently and you still seen to have ideas for videos on a subject that is not as "flexible" as others, and still here you are.So nice job sir.
I'm only ten minutes in and this is already way better than any other suit guide I have ever seen or read.
This is by far the best description I've come across. Many other ones just address the usual features but make no mention of movement for example, leaving it vague and superficial.
I've watched most of your videos; all of them are excellent and informative. This one is easily one of your best. Thank you, sir! Very well done!
I have to say that I am really loving everything about this suit you are wearing: colors, pattern, cut.. all of those wonderful small details as well. Excellent choices! Thanks for all of the info as I attempt to buy a wedding suit.
Great video man, looking forward for part 2 of the video
I'll put this in mind when I order my custom suit. Always thank you for the great information!
7:04 how a shoot sud fit
Why man, why? 😃
😂😭
This is the definition of dapper
This is such an informative video! I was a bit wary of buying a suit from a store because of these same reason. I didn't want it to not fit me properly. I might have to find a tailor to make one for me but I feel like it'll be worth it!
Raphael, I’m so happy you mentioned “It Happened One Night.” To this day, when I think of an exemplary silhouette of a suit, I think of the scene where Clark Gable (he’s my great great uncle) is rebuking Mr. Shapely on the bus. And in fact, your suit had indeed reminded me of his, even before you had mentioned it! Cheers, and thanks!
Thank you for the detailed explanation on arm movement and wormholes toward the beginning of your video
This is a great in-depth tutorial on how a suit should fit. I've learned so much. Great video!
This video featured a really great looking suit. I really like the fabric. Thanks for the video!
I found this channel doing research on.a Burberry mens trench I bought preloved and I love this channel even though i dont even have a man 😅great info
Excellent! I just got a suit with a jacket at the recommended length you posted but my g/f had mixed feelings about it because her thoughts where it was too long compared to what she sees in magazines and on celebrities. This showed helped us understand it a bit more! Thanks!
This is so well informed thank you Sir. You are a blessing to many.
Wow! Beautiful! I need to know these things because I get asked questions in my little alterations business. Thankyou!
Hey I just want to thank You for helping me Improve my wardrobe as I now work in an office environment. Instead of boots and jeans and cargos I'm now in slim fit pants athletic cut shirts and I've gotten asked by others to help them with their fashion.
Finally the long torso and short legs syndrome...I have it and didn't know about the one to one ratio...that's why this is the best (adult) mens fashion channel on you tube...thanks
We appreciate your kind words!
This is incredibly good stuff. It went straight to my favorites file.
Great video. Very informative. Like the houndstooth 3 piece too. The styling is really interesting, especially the back.
OMG another high quality video from gentleman's gazette
this is the 2nd video that i'm watching from your channel today. the first one was "19 things that men shouldn't wear".
its very informative and i'm subscribing to your channel!!!
Love you mate!!! Continue what you do, you are great at it!!!!
Love those drums in the background, so cool 😎
Great info! Thanks! Now I'm going to watch part two.
You are the embodiment of a classic gentleman, Raphael. I am hoping that some of your class will rub off on me.
THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR. ABOUT TIME!
You’re doing such a good job , thank you
Great video. Always learn something from your videos.
Nice video and quite informative. When I had attended fashion design twenty years ago, it was taught that the proper fit of pants at the waist is above the belly button.
Thank you so much for this video. I remember when I used to think that Menswearhouse and similar stores were suit experts. Not anymore. I had a guy try and sell me the modern slim fit suit, and I started bringing up all this criteria and he tried to convince me that jis version was better. I simply bad to decline his offer. I am so happy this video exists. I'll have to find an alterations tailor.
I find the real hallmark of a bespoke or well tailored suit is when you look across the back and around the back of the upper arm. There’s always usually way too much excess fabric here and it creates unsightly creasing or bunching. It’s the hardest area to get right but I find that if you sort the back out, the front generally looks after itself.
Thank you so much for this video Mr. Schneider
I finally got it ... and went to the tailor for a measure .... and the tailor was visibly worried about all that I was telling him. It was as if he had never heard such a description of how I wanted my suit in his life. He was almost in two minds whether to take up the job or not. Thanks.
so called tailors dont know anything in thailand and vietnam at least
That "pop" landed perfectly in time when he said Shhhhoulder @3:50 😄
Allow me to tell you Sir, this the best suit tutorial that I've ever seen. My greetings to you.
Thank you for sharing this video Raphael and I'm going to learn this info by heart so I can use it when I'm going out thrifting my next suit. I got quite inspired by your video of being a gentleman on a budget so I have found some really good pieces such as vintage Ralph Lauren blazers, suede jackets and sweaters, all thanks to you!
By the way what do you think about driving jackets and is there a possibility to make a video dedicated to driving jackets?
Very good advice this chap gives.
Gold. Simply gold. Bravo, maestro! Bravo!
Been waiting for a video on this topic by you for ages. Very thorough, very well put together.
I'm a heavy guy and I appreciate your guidance!
Regarding armholes, I recently purchased a suit where I felt restricted because of the armholes of the suit. Can you create a video where you don on various suits of your wardrobe to illustrate the proper armhole fit on your suits? We can see your collection (spring, summer, fall or hot, rain, fog, etc) and get an idea of the ideal armhole. Thanks.
Great videos by the way.
Raphael, your videos just keep getting better and better. I Always get happy when I get notifications.
I have a question? What do you think about shoes with a Norwegian welt? I have not found too much info on them I found a pair of shoes that have a Norwegian welt they are very nice different from most shoes. Thanks!!
Very informative and interesting video. Am I the only one that wished the drummer would stop, though? It didn't need that restlessness
i have look around and this is the best explain of suit. i never had a suit b4
Outstanding video!
Action back looks AMAZING
I recently saw a video by an English tailor about high arm holes in cheap suits vs correct arm holes. Now I can't stop seeing evidence of high arm holes everywhere I look!
Love the action back on your suit here
My one suit fits well but the other has a little longer for me but i wear it with vests this helped me a lot thank you
Great video as always :)
I could have saved a lot of money spent on ill fitting suits have I found your channel a bit sooner... :)
Thanks, very good explaination
Good informative video and nice suit!
Great vid! little to conservative for me tho, esp the pants. I recommend younger guys watch Gent's lounge.
Hi, Raphael. Great video! I am a big fan of your channel. Could you recommend a good tailor in New York who really knows the style?
Really like this video
Just like Adam West's Batman; Raphael has the ability to walk up the sides of building. 12:45
This video was well done.
What if there was a superhero comic or something in which the protagonist was based on this guy and he got around quickly to face the bad guy in the gentlemanly fashion of casually walking up walls like that and always defeated the bad guy (who was always based on some not gentlemanly characteristic) by literally killing them with kindness?
Good work 👍
Wow best video online!
who's playing the "Dapper Drinking Game" here?
might need poison control on speed dial...XD
we love you Sven. :D
Yesterday I took two suits to have adjusted in both sleeve and trouser length , hour glassing the jackets and tapering of the legs. All that for £20
I love Poland 😀😀
Excellent video!
Considering that fit is so important, but also har to achieve with a RTW suit, would you ever recommend buying a suit off the rack or is bespoke or MTM the only way to go?
If I feel comfortable in a suit then it's enough for me...
Learned a few key things
I'm getting smarter with these Gents.😉
Great information. Thank you
You're welcome!
Beautiful suit
I utterly despise fashion but I am strangely fascinated by all the intricacies of suits.
Hi I really love your site, it has really helped me step my style up a notch. How do you go about finding a good tailor, if you don't have a lot of money, but like to look nice?
I use these videos to check my default Expensive suit shops, and they did not disapoint me
I honestly love that a a man who constantly wears pants that look like bags of fabric bunched together into a loose tube can still give okay advice on the shoulder fit of a suit. I prefer a much more modern style of suit than what you are describing, I think that most of your collection looks way out of date instead of classy and vintage but I like that you touched on the key point of wearing what one feels comfortable in.
You're clearly the voice of a generation.I just don't know if it's mine.
This is the voice for all generations. it's accurate.
This channel has so much great content and Raphael is the genius behind it. I've learned a ton from his videos and enjoy his presentation voice. His personal style is really daring! He almost always has one element in his suit that challenges me. Usually its color related. He seems to really enjoy early 20th century style. Like this suit he has on today with hunting jacket / country suit elements. Its really cool! Saddely the average person in my State would see it as a costume rather than stylish.
This guy cares way more about his appearance than many people.
Thanks man
Yeah I thought about that! Looks a lot like Clark Gable's suit from It Happened One Night!
hi can you do a video on zoot suits and another on top hats and their formality and how to spot a quality one? thanks
So many ideas I had about how a jacket should fit are wrong.Thank you very much.Now of to my tailor.
Also could the music bed be just a little lower.
My arms are long
And I found a Hugo boss blazer and I fit perfectly exempt for the sleeves so I'll get it tailored
So calming i might aswell go to sleep
The sock poses killed me haha
Thank you so much :)))
Well, I usually wear frock-coats and I don't think my upper body appears to be to long as my waistcoats are quite short.
I fu**ing love your videos
Thank you sir.
can you do a video where you go to the mall and buy suits and tailor them and compare the suits after they are tailored and before and the materials and quality of the suit in general
Thank you
Please provide a video on the proper way of using suspenders. Thank you!
Awesome! Love your channel! Keep me coming!