Awesome video as always... just 1 more question... how should the shoulder fold behave when you raise your arms... is a dent ok or there shouldn't there be any dent at all when you lift your arm?
@@arun_kumar0 If you raise your arm, there is going to be a crease. I want everyone who reads this comment to understand that when you wear clothing, it moves, it creases, it wrinkles. People are not mannequins and you should feel comfortable in your clothing. If you become obsessed with "perfection" when actually wearing and moving in your clothing, it's time to get over that.
@@hespokestyle i wasnt talking about the crease... that's quite normal... but i was talking about a proper dent... when you raise your arm if a good amount of cloth just ducks inside the padding... is it ok?... there are plenty of tailors around here have argued with me that that's quite normal and that will happen if you raise your arm... just want to know about that
1:34 tailoring wise, one of the main reason of lapel gap / lapel pop is caused by an individual's shoulder being too squared compared to the shoulder slope of the jacket. It can be fixed or even better the jacket shoulders should be made with a more squared slope. For tailors it's usually called "shoulder height". Edit: when the lapel gap is between the chest pocket and neck it's highyl caused by this. A lapel between the chest pocket and jacket central button is caused by the opposite: an individual's shoulde being too slope compared to the slope of the jacket's shoulder.
Perfect video. Too many fools talk about the right fit and 99% of them infuse their "own" style...U have done a WONDERFUL JOB...sir. Keep up the Amazing work. (BTW what's up with new fashion of having the pants 5 to 6 inches short and showing the sox??? LOL). Keep it classy folks.
Thanks for the information, I learn a lot. Dept store was telling people to buy tight fit which I now know that it was totally wrong, glad I did not bought it. Right size means comfort.
Thanks for covering off larger gents, appreciated. 👍 Also, I generally follow the belt and shoe colour should match, mainly where a leather belt is being worn. Casual fabric belts less strict.
This is a valuable video on fit. Thank you. Especially flat back! Many times I see men in suits and they are not fitted. Then department stores do not have any one tailor so other than pant leg fitting they can’t help you. The department stores do not even research and identify neighboring trailers you could go to get the fit you want even at extra expense!
Awesome video as always! The shorts are great but these detailed videos are the reason I still watch your channel! :) Could you make a video on how you do your tie knot? It always looks so classy and well done!
Great style point as always Brian. As a short man (5'5) when it comes to pant length, I always go with no break and tapered opening (7.5) to attain the proper look. For my jacket, I would go with one or two buttons and dress shirts, slim fit 15.5 collar 33 sleeves.
G👀d to have all of the fit information in one short video🙏 I’ve come to understand the importance of fitted clothes, as well as material, drape etc more and more, over the recent years. (Cannot believe that I’ve never fitted my tie bar to my shirt), it was always going wonky on me🥇Gold star, for you sir 🌟
This video came at the perfect time! I'm about to pull the trigger on 2 MTM suits, I am in college looking for internships and have never owned a proper suit before. This was immensely helpful to me.
If you can go bespoke. MTM is a compromise. I won't go into the MTM market because of that very fact. I'll only make bespoke. Massive difference. MTM.. These are the fabrics to choose from... Bespoke..endless choices.
I’m slim & i usually go for a medium shirt & i try out the large but not all large or medium shirts are all the same so it depends for me when I’m shopping. I totally agree with all you said in the video. I took into consideration when I’m shoppin for a suit/shirt/slacks/jacket combo.
Super practical video, thank you Brian! One thing I thought you might touch on but didn't is the pant cuff. To cuff or not to cuff? That is the question. Also varieties of pant cuffs; are they dependent on look, fabric, etc? Maybe you've already covered that in another video that I haven't found. Thanks again for helping us look sharp!
That's a good question. A basic rule is the more formal you want to look, no cuff. But a cuff if it's less formal OR you simply like the look (like me, though I'd NEVER cuff tuxedo trousers).
Interesting...the Gentleman's Gazette says the suit shoulder should end a bit past where your arm starts, while the shirt should end right where your arm starts. It seems you believe they should both end where your arm starts.
This is a great video. I would add a pair of light grey jeans. Is my go to as it goes with dark and light brown suede jackets. You can also. Pair with pastel like baby blue and pink just to give you a bit of flair. I personally will stand away from tucking anything with a belt loop without a belt. As it looks like you have forgotten to put on a belt or you a hipster. I would wear something with side adjusters, much more elegant and keeping it causal with the polo and your CPs
Kudos for actually showing all the examples of style mistakes. I've seen a lot of videos where they tell you what not to do without showing it. All they do is show you 'the right way', which is kind of a bummer
The tie bar can be hidden - attaching into the smaller part of the tie and the inside seam of the larger tie and into your shirt. Also if you have the choice - get suit pants or dress pants with side tabs and ditch the belt.
Great video Brian! I just wanted to touch on the verbiage you used throughout the video, "..the brand might not be the right fit for you". While an off-the-rack suit may not fit perfect for a particular brand, many menswear companies provide made-to-measure suiting. Within that umbrella, you may find more fine-tuned adjustments that will mitigate posture and fit concerns better than off-the-rack.
I would like to add a made to measure request - slightly larger circumference to the shoulder seam of the sleeve, pulled to the wrist dropline, there will less fabric gather when you bend your elbow, may only need as little as five milimeters more circumference.
This was awesome. It took me a very long time to get this correct and i still make mistakes from time to time. I will definitely be coming back to this. thank you.
I love how your shirt fit. Just right. I have a lot shirt that i tailored too much in waist area . They look perfect when i standing but any moves etc make the shirt pop out. Now i left about 3inch space in waist and be careful to not tailored hips too much. I think the classic style its best option . Thank you for this video
A very informative and entertaining video, Brian. I especially took to heart about the pants size. I recently lost a good amount of weight: I went from a 38 inch waist to a 34 inch. I'm in the process of getting my suit pants tailored to fit me better. 🙂😊👍👍👍👔👖👞👞
@@q-storm767 oh that's sad, I'm also in the process of wait loss and I'm having a super hard time trying to get into a proper diet... and the craving is out of the world
Thanks ....just a very need to know !!! If there is any other place to go when performing or wearing corporate outfit .....is it everywhere doing or attending extra special itenerary working moves of job...hope to know the best time when you are on it ....wearing it ..happy with enthusiasm...
I’m a short guy and I’ve always been told I should go with no-break. I’m not overweight but I have a small gut (getting older - sigh ;-s ). Thoughts? Thank You.
Excellent video mate! You’re a top class bloke! In my personal preference I like to have my tie length just at the top of my belt, rather than slightly past it.
Great solid video. Few issues and disagreements Regarding shirt fit, it seems your was still a bit baggy, rolled creased and not that fitted. Regarding pants length, I believe the most norm and stylish is the no break or slight break, the others have rolled creases and don't look as stylish and together. Still all in all great content
About ties: we should say that the width of the tie depends upon the width of the lapels. Large lapels hence large tie, narrow lapels, then narrow tie.
I'm an artist learning how to draw suits and it's so interesting how many of these rules we break in order to make the art more visually engaging (adding so many extra wrinkles by the buttons and beltline, having the pant legs super long to have more zigzag wrinkels, super long ties, etc). It's crazy how we're stressing ourselves for drawing all these wrinkles perfectly, when that just indicates a bad fit 😂 But this was really insightful. Thank you for this video!!🙏
Great video! Just a question: based on your guide the showders must be correct size. I agree! But looks like in this particular jacket your shoulder are a little too big. I can see like a little break right after the seams. Is it like I’m seeing or it is perfect and my notion of shoulders end is not correct?
Do all the suits have little freedom of movement in the arms, like the armpits level stuck? For example, you can't move the arms to the sides at 90 degrees with your body without the whole suit rising... on the contrary, as if you can with a shirt and t-shirt..... please help Ps: and torso looks good, no wrinkles.
Bespoke suits are actually quite comfortable but there's still some amount of shoulder padding otherwise the structure of the jacket would break. It will never be as comfortable as a t-shirt. I guess it's a price one has to pay. Even when a woman wears high heels it's not particularly comfortable but it improves the look. Ready-to-wear jackets often have low-cut armholes which fits more people but it gives the wearer less flexibility. Fit is key.
Shop custom menswear in the HSS Shop: hespokestyle.com/shop/
Awesome video as always... just 1 more question... how should the shoulder fold behave when you raise your arms... is a dent ok or there shouldn't there be any dent at all when you lift your arm?
@@arun_kumar0 If you raise your arm, there is going to be a crease. I want everyone who reads this comment to understand that when you wear clothing, it moves, it creases, it wrinkles. People are not mannequins and you should feel comfortable in your clothing. If you become obsessed with "perfection" when actually wearing and moving in your clothing, it's time to get over that.
@@hespokestyle i wasnt talking about the crease... that's quite normal... but i was talking about a proper dent... when you raise your arm if a good amount of cloth just ducks inside the padding... is it ok?... there are plenty of tailors around here have argued with me that that's quite normal and that will happen if you raise your arm... just want to know about that
Where do i got a suit sir
What suit material and style do you recommend for countries with a hot climate all year round.
Mens departments and/or stores should have this playing on a loop in their stores. Educate the customers.... and the employees! Good job.
Too kind. Cheers.
@@n_phoenix wait until you learn about merchandise returns
Or just train their employees to help the customer
@@n_phoenix lol...true
Should, but wouldn't. Each has their own niche in the market...different levels of quality...different levels of pricing.
You summed up everything I had to learn over the course of years in little more than ten minutes. Masterpiece of a video.
many thanks!
All-in-one, straightforward, no dilly-dally information. Not many does what you are doing. Keep it up! 👌🏼
Thanks, will do!
The most comprehensive video for every man who wants to make the right impression !
Business Schools should add this video to their curriculum !
This guide is perfect and easy to follow. I'm going to a wedding this weekend, and it's helped me correct some stuff that I was doing wrong.
AS A 1ST TIMER HERE BUYING A SUIT. THIS IS SUCH A HELPFUL VIDEO. THANK YOU SO MUCH MY BROTHER.
The perfectly detailed and to the point guide within such a short duration of time. Thanks you sir ❤️
was lost in the middle of tons of videos.. but this watching this at the end is totally worth the effort..
You're the best.. thank you so very much
1:34 tailoring wise, one of the main reason of lapel gap / lapel pop is caused by an individual's shoulder being too squared compared to the shoulder slope of the jacket. It can be fixed or even better the jacket shoulders should be made with a more squared slope. For tailors it's usually called "shoulder height".
Edit: when the lapel gap is between the chest pocket and neck it's highyl caused by this. A lapel between the chest pocket and jacket central button is caused by the opposite: an individual's shoulde being too slope compared to the slope of the jacket's shoulder.
Perfect video. Too many fools talk about the right fit and 99% of them infuse their "own" style...U have done a WONDERFUL JOB...sir. Keep up the Amazing work. (BTW what's up with new fashion of having the pants 5 to 6 inches short and showing the sox??? LOL). Keep it classy folks.
Excited for this, Brian! Thanks as always for the high quality and straightforward entertainment! You're the man. Be well, my friend!
Thanks for the information, I learn a lot. Dept store was telling people to buy tight fit which I now know that it was totally wrong, glad I did not bought it. Right size means comfort.
Excellent video. You covered every aspect correctly. Would like a video on how to know if a garmet can be or cannot be tailored to fit correctly.
This video has more information in one single location than some other resources I have explored. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for covering off larger gents, appreciated. 👍
Also, I generally follow the belt and shoe colour should match, mainly where a leather belt is being worn. Casual fabric belts less strict.
This is a valuable video on fit. Thank you. Especially flat back! Many times I see men in suits and they are not fitted. Then department stores do not have any one tailor so other than pant leg fitting they can’t help you. The department stores do not even research and identify neighboring trailers you could go to get the fit you want even at extra expense!
Awesome video as always! The shorts are great but these detailed videos are the reason I still watch your channel! :) Could you make a video on how you do your tie knot? It always looks so classy and well done!
Great style point as always Brian. As a short man (5'5) when it comes to pant length, I always go with no break and tapered opening (7.5) to attain the proper look. For my jacket, I would go with one or two buttons and dress shirts, slim fit 15.5 collar 33 sleeves.
Thanks for chiming in, Larry!
G👀d to have all of the fit information in one short video🙏 I’ve come to understand the importance of fitted clothes, as well as material, drape etc more and more, over the recent years. (Cannot believe that I’ve never fitted my tie bar to my shirt), it was always going wonky on me🥇Gold star, for you sir 🌟
This video came at the perfect time! I'm about to pull the trigger on 2 MTM suits, I am in college looking for internships and have never owned a proper suit before. This was immensely helpful to me.
@Jackson Ray - good luck, Sir! Nice to see someone so young trying to put their best foot forward.
If you can go bespoke. MTM is a compromise. I won't go into the MTM market because of that very fact. I'll only make bespoke. Massive difference. MTM.. These are the fabrics to choose from... Bespoke..endless choices.
This site is my bible when it comes to style. 100%.
Wow! What a great video! I didn’t know even a quarter of this information. I wish I could have seen this years ago.
I’m slim & i usually go for a medium shirt & i try out the large but not all large or medium shirts are all the same so it depends for me when I’m shopping. I totally agree with all you said in the video. I took into consideration when I’m shoppin for a suit/shirt/slacks/jacket combo.
This video is just amazing. Simple but very smart things you should know to look clinically sharp.
great content and info, personally for me fit is the most important aspect of any dress. Fit is to dress, what location is to property.
Great guide. Following such principles, one will avoid fashion extremes, and instead focus on proper proportions and balance.
Glad it was helpful!
Super practical video, thank you Brian! One thing I thought you might touch on but didn't is the pant cuff. To cuff or not to cuff? That is the question. Also varieties of pant cuffs; are they dependent on look, fabric, etc? Maybe you've already covered that in another video that I haven't found. Thanks again for helping us look sharp!
That's a good question. A basic rule is the more formal you want to look, no cuff. But a cuff if it's less formal OR you simply like the look (like me, though I'd NEVER cuff tuxedo trousers).
Interesting...the Gentleman's Gazette says the suit shoulder should end a bit past where your arm starts, while the shirt should end right where your arm starts. It seems you believe they should both end where your arm starts.
Excellent information here. So many youtube channels are wrong when it comes to men suits and fashion. Subscribed.
This is a great video. I would add a pair of light grey jeans. Is my go to as it goes with dark and light brown suede jackets. You can also. Pair with pastel like baby blue and pink just to give you a bit of flair.
I personally will stand away from tucking anything with a belt loop without a belt. As it looks like you have forgotten to put on a belt or you a hipster. I would wear something with side adjusters, much more elegant and keeping it causal with the polo and your CPs
Kudos for actually showing all the examples of style mistakes. I've seen a lot of videos where they tell you what not to do without showing it. All they do is show you 'the right way', which is kind of a bummer
The tie bar can be hidden - attaching into the smaller part of the tie and the inside seam of the larger tie and into your shirt. Also if you have the choice - get suit pants or dress pants with side tabs and ditch the belt.
Great video. You are one of the best dressed guys I have seen.
Wow, thank you!
If I had a son, I'd sit him down and we'd watch this together! Excellent work!
Great video Brian! I just wanted to touch on the verbiage you used throughout the video, "..the brand might not be the right fit for you".
While an off-the-rack suit may not fit perfect for a particular brand, many menswear companies provide made-to-measure suiting.
Within that umbrella, you may find more fine-tuned adjustments that will mitigate posture and fit concerns better than off-the-rack.
I would like to add a made to measure request - slightly larger circumference to the shoulder seam of the sleeve, pulled to the wrist dropline, there will less fabric gather when you bend your elbow, may only need as little as five milimeters more circumference.
Not to sound haughty, I do all this.
My question is, where did I learn it?
This channel is absolutely stellar!
You rock, my Man.
This was awesome. It took me a very long time to get this correct and i still make mistakes from time to time. I will definitely be coming back to this. thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I've just forwarded this to a few guys, such a concise video. Exellent work
Great info.
I usually get my clothes tailored and it is becoming difficult to find the right tailors.
I love how your shirt fit. Just right. I have a lot shirt that i tailored too much in waist area . They look perfect when i standing but any moves etc make the shirt pop out. Now i left about 3inch space in waist and be careful to not tailored hips too much. I think the classic style its best option . Thank you for this video
2:03 can a tailor fix that? My jacket fits perfectly everywhere else I’m just having this issue.
Potentially. It could also be a posture issue. If the latter, depending on the severity, it may not be able to be corrected.
Very very good!!!
I have agreed with every point you made for years!!!!
The tie knot is critical for me... A Windsor or half Windsor is a must! Can't have a cocked or twisted tie knot!
so true! the four in hand on a nice outfit degrades it.
This is the perfect guide for every man!
Thanks so much!
Your channel is very helpful for me and every gentlemen too
Excellent guide. They largely teach you all this in the military, but there's still some very good tips in here.
19 years active duty and counting. And actually what AR 670-1 says about sleeve length (show no cuff) is wrong for civilian life.
Thanks B. I’m sure many other asked as well
Medium break is perfect in my opinion.
A very informative and entertaining video, Brian. I especially took to heart about the pants size. I recently lost a good amount of weight: I went from a 38 inch waist to a 34 inch. I'm in the process of getting my suit pants tailored to fit me better. 🙂😊👍👍👍👔👖👞👞
what's your height and weight my friend if you don't mind
@@terabhaiultrasexy 5'10" and 176 lbs....but that was a few months ago, now I am back up to 187.
@@q-storm767 oh that's sad, I'm also in the process of wait loss and I'm having a super hard time trying to get into a proper diet... and the craving is out of the world
This is insane and Madness man !!! Awesome for the Informative Session ............ One word ... Video is good ....Really Good
Thanks ....just a very need to know !!! If there is any other place to go when performing or wearing corporate outfit .....is it everywhere doing or attending extra special itenerary working moves of job...hope to know the best time when you are on it ....wearing it ..happy with enthusiasm...
The intro was LEGENDARY
I’m a short guy and I’ve always been told I should go with no-break. I’m not overweight but I have a small gut (getting older - sigh ;-s ). Thoughts? Thank You.
Excellent video mate! You’re a top class bloke! In my personal preference I like to have my tie length just at the top of my belt, rather than slightly past it.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! Extremely helpful.
yeah saving to watch again when i can take notes
Awesome!
THANKS TO PEOPLE LIKE YOU.
Perfect summary. Amazing video.
Thanks so much.
fabulous detail.A really good all in one fit guide. And nice to see someone talking about suits again.
This is good stuff Brian. Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Haa to be one of the best vid on your channel! Its like a guide for anyone purchasing their next suit! :D Cheers!
Wow, thanks!
Could not have been explained better very clear and you covered a lot of details along with tips to know if it’s right as always great video thank you
Great solid video.
Few issues and disagreements
Regarding shirt fit, it seems your was still a bit baggy, rolled creased and not that fitted.
Regarding pants length, I believe the most norm and stylish is the no break or slight break, the others have rolled creases and don't look as stylish and together.
Still all in all great content
Learned the term gig line from “In the Army Now” with Paula Shore lol.
This was an exact re-run of what we learned in basic training. "boot camp"
Great video Brian! Fit is everything 👍
It sure is! And thank you.
Thanks for the straightforward, easy to use advice!
Glad it was helpful!
Great concise presentation of everything on how to look good. This is something I will review and re-review in the future. Thanks HSS!
Thank you for creating such great content! I’m suiting up for a new job and many of your videos have been very helpful.
BRILLIANT CONTENT.... Have saved for future reference/sharing
Perfect and well descriptions of stylist and smart guys, nice information. Overall it is good. ❤
About ties: we should say that the width of the tie depends upon the width of the lapels. Large lapels hence large tie, narrow lapels, then narrow tie.
An excellent, to the point video. I do have a question regarding the tie bar placement. Should the count start at the top button, or the one below it?
A belt I should never be worn with a suit sir is it Visual he cuts the uniformity in half. Have buttons added to the inner waist and wear suspenders
Fit is King
Hi Brian
Always Enjoy Your Videos
Thanks for your Fashion Expertise
Glad you like them!
I love this video! Thank you for having it for us all!
A detailed video on shirt for a suit with everything from length to colour to collar
Love your pocket square choice!
Depending on the situation, they can be distractions.
Valuable information. Thank you Brian.
You got it! Thanks for the comment.
great video , as another one comment said : Masterpiece of a video.
phenomenal phenomenal stuff, thank you so much for this info, fantastic guide for formal dressing.👍🙂
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great stuff! Saving it for a reference later. Thank you.
Excellent!
9:00 or you can choose to embrace it and show the imperfection to everyone, giving the tie a bit more dimension
Excellent video. Congratulations from Portugal.
Great video, you should also research on hair parting theory.. can be a great video
I'm an artist learning how to draw suits and it's so interesting how many of these rules we break in order to make the art more visually engaging (adding so many extra wrinkles by the buttons and beltline, having the pant legs super long to have more zigzag wrinkels, super long ties, etc). It's crazy how we're stressing ourselves for drawing all these wrinkles perfectly, when that just indicates a bad fit 😂
But this was really insightful. Thank you for this video!!🙏
Very informative video - thank you for good job
Great video! Just a question: based on your guide the showders must be correct size. I agree! But looks like in this particular jacket your shoulder are a little too big. I can see like a little break right after the seams. Is it like I’m seeing or it is perfect and my notion of shoulders end is not correct?
Very good video and informative.Thanks for sharing
Do all the suits have little freedom of movement in the arms, like the armpits level stuck? For example, you can't move the arms to the sides at 90 degrees with your body without the whole suit rising... on the contrary, as if you can with a shirt and t-shirt..... please help
Ps: and torso looks good, no wrinkles.
Bespoke suits are actually quite comfortable but there's still some amount of shoulder padding otherwise the structure of the jacket would break. It will never be as comfortable as a t-shirt. I guess it's a price one has to pay. Even when a woman wears high heels it's not particularly comfortable but it improves the look. Ready-to-wear jackets often have low-cut armholes which fits more people but it gives the wearer less flexibility. Fit is key.
@@baze3SC I got it. Thanks
May you please make video on black suit outfit ideas.
Thank you for guiding the correct fit !
Very useful video. Just the tips needed to dress cool. Thanks Brian. Cheers
He's back!
Never gone.
What a Great video! Love this!! Please keep the great job!
Very correct info. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much, this is the best brief video explaining the men suit rules 👍👍👍