@@jamesbaldrey I have collected these over the years, but something like this would do: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVW7CLM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XDDG0ZBHVVZNC10HK42Q
Great video! I agree that Cerakote is understandably conservative with their blast profile recommendation. For your spring example: are you saying that you stripped paint and then just prepped with a red scotch brite pad? Thanks!
Hey BananaSlugger! Yep! I used paint stripper and some sandpaper first, then scotchbrite. Cleaned it over and over until spotless and then, cerakote. Works great!
Thanks for the clarification. I've looked at too many of these videos to remember where I saw that parts should/could be heated to 150 degrees to bring out any oil residue? Some I've seen people take a torch to heat check areas. I didn't see any of that here. Is preheating not an official Cerakote recommendation or did all the cleaning replace that need?
Hi Doclees! Gas out, as its called, is not a required step, BUT it never hurts! I have never employed this step in any of my projects - many of which were previously very oily and I’ve never had a coating application failure.
Hi Larry. It doesn’t affect dissipation, just heat resistance. Depending on the particular cerakote product, up to 4000 degrees (as I recall) can be withstood.
What do you think about using C series on fork tubes? I heard it both ways. One local Cerakoter says he does engines with C and only uses H series on fork tubes but didnt really explain why. Ive done one set of ktm65 tubes with the H and they turned out great but I would like to do some full size tubes and they will not fit in my oven hence my dilemma. Im just about ready to coat an entire crf450 engine with C series Glacier black and If C series will work then I can just do it all at once Thanks so much for posting this video it was very informative and has helped me in a HUGE way. Dan
Hey Dan! C series on your fork tubes is fine. It will still be very durable. The pigment is the main determining factor in relation to air dry vs oven cure. Some pigments are not as hard as others. Oven cure narrow the variability in the hardness. But, like I always tell people, it’s still very hard! C is just fine. Frankly, neither is going to survive dropping your bike on a hard surface so just go with whats easier! I love C series and rarely use any other.
Hey Ben. It would probably work. I’m just a little paranoid that oil is still present so I like wiping everything down by hand. Another idea might be, wipe it all down like I did. Then soak it. Then, tape with clean gloves one. Just make sure you don’t touch ANYTHING with those gloves including things like itching your face, etc.
My man, files for the perfect masking tape trim is brilliant. Well done.
That has been a popular little tip! Glad it helped!
Awesome info! I've been wanting to get into cerakote but didn't want to invest in a sand blast cabinet. Now I don't have to!
Glad it was helpful!
Neat trick with the files to trim the tape.
A lot of people liked that trick! Hope it helps you.
What’s the name of the files please? Great video
@@jamesbaldrey I have collected these over the years, but something like this would do: www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVW7CLM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XDDG0ZBHVVZNC10HK42Q
Amazing there parts look incredible and this made it look incredibly easy can’t wait to see the rest of the build
Hey Seth! Thanks for watching. Truly, it’s no more difficult than spraying from a rattle can if you are patient and thorough with the prep.
Thank you for sharing.Very nice.
Thanks ELSDP!
This video is fantastic!!!
Thank you! You are always so supportive. I really appreciate you and thank you for following!
wow! Really informative video, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! I agree that Cerakote is understandably conservative with their blast profile recommendation. For your spring example: are you saying that you stripped paint and then just prepped with a red scotch brite pad? Thanks!
Hey BananaSlugger! Yep! I used paint stripper and some sandpaper first, then scotchbrite. Cleaned it over and over until spotless and then, cerakote. Works great!
I like the file trick
Ha! Yeah, I discovered that back when I was painting a lot of cars.
Nice!
Thanks Jorn! Hope you are doing some Cerakote jobs of your own now!
Thanks for the clarification. I've looked at too many of these videos to remember where I saw that parts should/could be heated to 150 degrees to bring out any oil residue? Some I've seen people take a torch to heat check areas. I didn't see any of that here. Is preheating not an official Cerakote recommendation or did all the cleaning replace that need?
Hi Doclees! Gas out, as its called, is not a required step, BUT it never hurts! I have never employed this step in any of my projects - many of which were previously very oily and I’ve never had a coating application failure.
What color is this, because it looks nothing like images for C-7700 Glacier Silver on the Cerakote website?
Hi Michael. The color is called “Tungsten” (C-111). Thanks for watching!
How is cerakote for the heat dicepation on motors??
Hi Larry. It doesn’t affect dissipation, just heat resistance. Depending on the particular cerakote product, up to 4000 degrees (as I recall) can be withstood.
What do you think about using C series on fork tubes? I heard it both ways. One local Cerakoter says he does engines with C and only uses H series on fork tubes but didnt really explain why. Ive done one set of ktm65 tubes with the H and they turned out great but I would like to do some full size tubes and they will not fit in my oven hence my dilemma. Im just about ready to coat an entire crf450 engine with C series Glacier black and If C series will work then I can just do it all at once Thanks so much for posting this video it was very informative and has helped me in a HUGE way. Dan
Hey Dan! C series on your fork tubes is fine. It will still be very durable. The pigment is the main determining factor in relation to air dry vs oven cure. Some pigments are not as hard as others. Oven cure narrow the variability in the hardness. But, like I always tell people, it’s still very hard! C is just fine. Frankly, neither is going to survive dropping your bike on a hard surface so just go with whats easier! I love C series and rarely use any other.
@@brian.d.mobley Awesome Brian thanks so much for the info and fast reply.
@@TheRacinStanleys Sure! Thanks for watching!
PLEASE DO A CR 85 CRANK SEAL REPLACEMENT ON THE CLUTCH SIDE
What happens if you soak in acetone then tape with gloves on?
Hey Ben. It would probably work. I’m just a little paranoid that oil is still present so I like wiping everything down by hand. Another idea might be, wipe it all down like I did. Then soak it. Then, tape with clean gloves one. Just make sure you don’t touch ANYTHING with those gloves including things like itching your face, etc.