How to Never Lose a Triangle Point Again - Triangle Masterclass
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- Опубліковано 2 вер 2021
- Triangles quilts are absolutely beautiful, but they can also be intimidating. Getting your blocks to turn out the right size with all of your points in the right place can be a bit of a challenge.
That’s why we created the Triangle Masterclass, a collection of eight videos focusing on different types of triangle units that are commonly used in quilts.
In today's video we're starting to sew our triangle units together into a block. This can be one of the most challenging parts because it is really easy for your points to get out of alignment and lose points in your seam allowances.
So this video is all about how I pin and sew so that every point ends up where it is supposed to be. This also means that we cover how to "fudge it" or manipulate your triangle units so that everything looks perfect on the outside even if things are a bit off in the seam allowances.
The "fudging it" techniques are tricks I use in pretty much EVERY quilt I sew together. My blocks are always flat and square. And that's not just me saying that. My longarmer loves working on my tops because everything is always consistently flat.
In the video I am sewing together the block from Raspberry Sherbet, the pattern I designed to teach the Triangle Masterclass with.
You can use this video to improve your triangle piecing on any quilt. Or you can get our pattern Raspberry Sherbet which uses all of the techniques we cover in the series. It comes in four sizes, but we made the lap version for this tutorial series.
Raspberry Sherbet is fat quarter friendly and we have quilt kits available!
We also have created a Triangle Masterclass category on our website that has in-stock fat quarter bundles that would work for this quilt in the lap size. Just add background and you’ll be good to go.
I can’t wait to make this quilt with you!
Join the Triangle Masterclass Quilt Along by downloading the Raspberry Sherbet pattern: shop.quiltaddictsanonymous.co...
Raspberry Sherbet quilt kit (limited quantities): shop.quiltaddictsanonymous.co...
Fat quarter bundles that would work for the lap sized version (just add 3 yards of background) plus other useful supplies: shop.quiltaddictsanonymous.co... - Навчання та стиль
Stephanie, thank you for this wonderful tutorial. as a beginner quilter I find these tips very helpful.
So. Many. TIPS!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for this! I've been so frustrated with how many times I wind up fudging to get my points to match thinking that I somehow just can't measure, cut or sew right in the first place. It really helps to know that I'm not the only one who has to fudge to get it to work and I think now I can maybe ease up a little on the self-criticism and enjoy the process a little more.
Easing is very common in garment sewing. My mom taught me to "sew with a baggy bottom" when easing because the feed dogs help move the bottom fabric. It has helped me with quilting as well. While I don't generally press seams open for quilts, I do press away from the point to keep it crisp. I enjoy watching your good tips!!
Thank you for “giving permission “ to fudge the blocks! I have learned so much from this series!
Thanks to your tutorials I have been pressing seams open for a number of months. All of the little tips you share have helped me improve and become a better quilter. Thank you my friend!
Now I know where I went wrong! Only looked at the top to get my points right but never thought about keeping it straight. Had to redo a lot but worth it, looking great now, many thanks! ❤️
Pretty block love the fabric range. Thank you for the tips with pinning and "fudging" points.🌼
Beautiful!
I am not a new quilter and I really didn’t have any problems with the half squares, but when it came to the geese that was a whole different story! I think mine are getting better but I may have to ditch a few. I did find the best way to square them up, but all the cutting and marking made me really really love my Acuquilt cutter! I have some back problems so the cutting was a small problem but I found a place to mark the squares for the geese. I can’t tell you how glad I was to hear you say that now we are putting the block together we could use a 1/4 inch seam! I also found it does matter which brand of rulers you are using and the creations one is the best! Thank you for all these explanations! I already had a lot of fat quarters so when I saw this pattern I could finally use them! Thanks 😊
Such great instruction! Thank you!
This is fantastic!! You've just given me such a lightbulb moment. Thank you!!
Thank you for showing this.
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much! Great detailed tutorial.
Great lesson
I have been wondering how to do this! You are a life saver!❤️
Very understandable! Thanks
I love your videos! They've helped me so much.
Such a pretty block.
Thanks for your tips.
Wow such a pretty quilt. I love it
Since I was a sewer before I was a quilter the easing makes perfect sense. Your tips about sewing with the points on top so you can see them make perfect sense. I am now pressing all my seams open and some of my quilting friends are telling me what a big mistake I am making, but I certainly don’t see it that way as my blocks are flatter and they are going on top of batting and a backing before they are quilted so I think they really aren’t going anywhere. Thanks 😊
I remember hearing that the reason for pressing to the side was to keep the batting from "bearding" through to the front of the quilt. (For the uninitiated, bearding is when wispy bits of the batting migrate through the seams so they show on the quilt, usually after much washing.) However, with modern batting, I don't think that is an issue any longer, so I also press seams open now.
I really appreciate all your extreme detailed tips and tricks! I can now see how I have been going wrong with matching points and how to fix it!
with pressed open seams, long arm Stitch in the ditch not going to work? and the seams don't nest. Opposite of what I've learned so far. Personal preference? I'll give it a try. I've sewed for many years but I'm new to piecing, getting blocks to finish the right size has been a challenge.
I just all the tips
I need to know how to construct a block with HSTs so I have a 1/4 seam allowance around the perimeter of the block for adding binding. Thx b
Hi I was wondering if you could tell me the fabric line u used in the picture you have in the raspberry sherbet quilt you are using? Also if you have any kits left of that particle color?
Please advise me if my block edges don’t have 1/4 inch seam allowances, my triangle points will be lost. What to do? Thx.
Why does it seem your bottom squares are always a smidge too large and have to be eased in? I struggle with that but assume it's because I can't seem to cut exactly.
How do you adjust for scant 1/4 if you have old machine where needles won’t shift left or right?
You can always line up the raw edges just inside the quarter inch mark on your machine or on your presser foot.
Stephanie, I am confused on when to use a regular 1/4 seam and a scant 1/4. The couple of quilting classes have taken have said to always use a scant quarter. Do you use the scant 1/4 in making the HST, QST and flying geese only? Is the difference because you are pressing your seams open (which I’m all for) and the classes are having you press the seam towards one of the sides? My second question is this: one of the free motion quilters I’ve watched bastes her quilts using a very thin silk pin with the tiny metal head and she does not remove the pins. She said in the 8 years she has been using this method she has never broken a needle, pins yes, but never a needle. So, if I’m using the silk pins she highly recommends, when piecing can I leave them in too? Thanks Stephanie.
Don't know about the seams, but I do know that that free motion quilter is very lucky that she has not had a needle break and it is definitely not worth the risk of injury if/when it does happen. Flying pieces of broken needle can cause nasty wounds, including risking eye injury, so please, please, *always* take out pins before you get to the needle. It just isn't worth the risk.
We use scant quarter-inch seams when making triangle units from squares. It gives you a little extra wiggle room to ensure your HST, hourglass, flying geese or double pinwheel turns out the right size and isn't too small. I'd rather have a little extra to trim off than have the piece be too small to start.
I use a regular quarter-inch seam for all of my regular piecing. So once the triangle units are created and we're sewing them together like a nine patch. There I switch back to my regular quarter-inch seam because I press my seams open and will get better results with the regular seam.
And don't ever sew over pins. I've had a needle tip fly toward my eye before when it hit a pin. Thankfully it was still attached to the thread and that is all that stopped it from going in!
Which Babylock foot do you have in this video ?
It's the general purpose zig zag foot.
I don't understand a scant 1/4 inch! What is your stich length for pressing your seams open. Thank you!
We use scant quarter-inch seams when making triangle units from squares. It gives you a little extra wiggle room to ensure your HST, hourglass, flying geese or double pinwheel turns out the right size and isn't too small. I'd rather have a little extra to trim off than have the piece be too small to start.
I use a regular quarter-inch seam for all of my regular piecing. So once the triangle units are created and we're sewing them together like a nine patch. There I switch back to my regular quarter-inch seam because I press my seams open and will get better results with the regular seam.
I stitch with a 2.0 stitch length.
What do you use in your mister.
I like to just use water in my mister! But you can also use alternatives such as Best Press!
👍👏🌷🇦🇺
It was interesting but you speak to fast
You can always change the video speed, under settings, to slow down the narration. Another option is to put on Closed Captions and turn off the volume.