Installed mine last month, great quality part with good looks. Time will tell how well it works but for now I’m very pleased. Much appreciated. 2021 Ford F-250
I just put one of these oil separators on my 2020 Ford F150 5.0 and I couldn’t be happier. Believe it or not my truck is actually idling better and running down the road better and all I have done is put this separator on. Can’t wait to see how much oil I save using this. I go through synthetic oil really quickly and I don’t want to do the computer update since the fuel mileage is already bad enough not to decrease it anymore. I recommend this product and will be installing them on our other gas trucks.
Easy install. 10mm for the cover. Check out how he quickly shows how to push the tab to remove the Lines. When I popped of the electrical tab. At the very end, I drilled a hole in the aluminum bracket and pushed the electrical tab into the bracket.
10mm socket to remove cover. Watch closely how he pushes on the small tab to release the lines when pulled. At the very end I drilled a hole in the bracket to push in the electrical line. Mine was 2021 F150 3.5
Why did you switch from 300 psi Eaton hoses to 34 psi gates fuel line? The biggest criticism I have is the connectors suck taking off. The tabs break because they become brittle overtime like all plastics. So I’d order new ones before anyone tries.
The Gates hose has a higher permeation rating on it, which helps with people in cold climates that may experience a fuel smell from the hose when the can's get more raw fuel in them. As for the connectors, you maybe removing them wrong. You don't remove the clips from the fitting to release it. The large portion of the clip is a button, press it to release the fitting.
Good product. I installed it last week on my 2017 f150 3.5 eco with twin turbo and drove about 400kms. When I checked the canister today if there was any oil and it was empty. Is this normal?
Thank you for the kind words. Yes, this is completely normal. We don't recommend doing the first check until 1,000 miles (roughly 1600kms). Especially with this kit with the longer hoses, it will take some time to see collection in the can.
Roughly once a year or every 15K miles or so you'll want to give it a good clean with some brake/parts cleaner. You can remove the separator from the truck and spray everything down really well and then allow to air dry before reinstalling.
If you read the fine print on any warranty contract you will find a lot of reasons your warranty can become void; installing aftermarket parts can be one of them. However, per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act proof would have to be provided that the after-market part caused the failure. If you need further clarification, contact your vehicles service department. Some are easier to deal with than others.
I purchased the J and L oil seperator. 3 weeks later I got a check engine light come on. It says crank case seals and or connection problem. Is this normal???
You could, especially on 5.0 applications. I would suggest you cut the hoses off on the oil separator side, trim and reinstall. Be sure to use oil or grease for lubrication to help with sliding the hoses back onto the fittings.
Hi J&L I live in Saudi Arabia, where unfortunately we are not able to get your latest products. However, I found JLT products on some shops here and on Amazon. My question is: I’m driving a 21 powerboost f150. Can 3016P JLT can fit my truck?
The 3016P kit has been installed by some of our customers on the power boost truck it is just difficult due to the battery tray not having the adequate room needed to mount the bracket fully. It is recommended to use the 3028P kit which fits perfectly.
In our experience that side (AKA the clean side) collects little to nothing in comparison to the passenger side. Feel free to reach out to info@jlosc.com for a more detailed explanation.
Got it slightly longer install than said if you’re not 6 feet tall, also removing the blue tab FORd Hoses was easy as was installing the green rimmed hoses supplied, truck mpg seems to already have improved but I pulled on the JL hose to see how easy it would be to replace the Pcv valve itself and not wanting to damage it I wasn’t able to easily remove the JL hoses can you explain or show in a video how to do this, I’ve worked on vehicles for years but never really Fords and this is my first so I don’t wann tear up the new hoses but I’d like to replace the pcv valve soon
Says "push" on the connection. You have to push down or in on it while pushing the lock release at the same time. Almost need a long thumb nail to do it.
@@jameskenney3389 so push down on the pcv valve and the green connector doesnt have a tab like the blue tab on the ford so i pry the green plastic up while pushing down, sorry, all my work has been on foreign and military vehicles ive never seen hoses like this in 30 years of mild tuning and tinkering.
You don't need to pull the green plastic up at all as this will damage the fitting. Simply push on the green part that says push and pull the fitting up off of the PCV valve. Feel free to contact us at info@jlosc.com if you have further questions.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 that covers it thank you for the time and answers, prolly seems stupid but id rather ask a simple question than break something. Especially when its working so well already.
In the colder months there will be condensation from the hot air in the can being hit with cold outside air. However, checking the can contents and emptying more frequently will prevent anything from getting sucked into the intake manifold.
That plug is for any blower set up that has a waste line that needs to be capped. If your set up only has two connections, not a "T" type connection, then it is not needed. To our knowledge the Whipple set ups do not need this plug.
In colder weather the can will create condensation inside of it. If the can is completely full and freezes it will create problems. Staying on top of regular checking and emptying in the winter months is very important.
Hey Kit, In our experience just the passenger "dirty side" will cover about 99% of owners, the only time we see oil out of the driver side is in extreme situations especially on the 5.0. Extreme would be road course racing in a Mustang GT with the similar engine.
Correct, the 21+ trucks will use the supplied lock nuts instead of the J-clips. We're working on updating the video for the newer years to clear this up.
Has this ever been Dyno'd to see if there is an improvement in performance? I know that's not the primary objective for these but it would be interesting to know. 2022 F150 5.0L
I have a 2011 Ecoboost 3.5 with 230000 mls. This would probably be a great idea! I drive a lot. I will be getting this. Is there anything I can do to flush out the engine? Also, I thought the PCV was suppose to do most of what your item does?
Sorry for the delayed response. Most dealerships or repair shops offer different types of carbon clean ups to try and clean the engine before installing the oil separator. The PCV system is what moves the air with the oil residue from the engine to the intake tract. What our product does is catch that oil before making it to the intake. Here is a link to a video that explains the process a little better: ua-cam.com/video/nTpUjiCsPK8/v-deo.html
Installed mine last month, great quality part with good looks. Time will tell how well it works but for now I’m very pleased. Much appreciated. 2021 Ford F-250
I just put one of these oil separators on my 2020 Ford F150 5.0 and I couldn’t be happier. Believe it or not my truck is actually idling better and running down the road better and all I have done is put this separator on. Can’t wait to see how much oil I save using this. I go through synthetic oil really quickly and I don’t want to do the computer update since the fuel mileage is already bad enough not to decrease it anymore.
I recommend this product and will be installing them on our other gas trucks.
My separator just arrived today will install tomorrow looks like great quality product
Easy install. 10mm for the cover. Check out how he quickly shows how to push the tab to remove the Lines. When I popped of the electrical tab.
At the very end, I drilled a hole in the aluminum bracket and pushed the electrical tab into the bracket.
I've put them on every truck first mod. Definitely needed
10mm socket to remove cover.
Watch closely how he pushes on the small tab to release the lines when pulled. At the very end I drilled a hole in the bracket to push in the electrical line. Mine was 2021 F150 3.5
Just finished installing my Oil Separator on my 2020 F150. For a "non-mechanic" guy, this mod couldn't be easier.
Great video, putting mine on today!
Do you have a video showing how to cut and shorten the length of hose lines? They are too long and I want a cleaner more direct fit. Thank you.
Shoot us an email to info@jlosc.com and we can help you out with that. Thanks,
Explains why i oredered a JLT from Amazon and i got the J@L. Thank you.
Thank you for your business :)
Why did you switch from 300 psi Eaton hoses to 34 psi gates fuel line?
The biggest criticism I have is the connectors suck taking off. The tabs break because they become brittle overtime like all plastics. So I’d order new ones before anyone tries.
The Gates hose has a higher permeation rating on it, which helps with people in cold climates that may experience a fuel smell from the hose when the can's get more raw fuel in them.
As for the connectors, you maybe removing them wrong. You don't remove the clips from the fitting to release it. The large portion of the clip is a button, press it to release the fitting.
Good product. I installed it last week on my 2017 f150 3.5 eco with twin turbo and drove about 400kms. When I checked the canister today if there was any oil and it was empty. Is this normal?
Thank you for the kind words. Yes, this is completely normal. We don't recommend doing the first check until 1,000 miles (roughly 1600kms). Especially with this kit with the longer hoses, it will take some time to see collection in the can.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 thanks
It's an awesome product how do I maintain it so in the long run it won't plug up at the filter?
Roughly once a year or every 15K miles or so you'll want to give it a good clean with some brake/parts cleaner. You can remove the separator from the truck and spray everything down really well and then allow to air dry before reinstalling.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 thank you for the response that's good to know so far like the product cannot wait to install
Installed mine and now I got a check engine light!
Sorry for the trouble. Please reach out to us at info@jlosc.com and we'll help you out
I just bought a 2023 F-150 2.7 Ecoboost, will installing this void the warranty?
If you read the fine print on any warranty contract you will find a lot of reasons your warranty can become void; installing aftermarket parts can be one of them. However, per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act proof would have to be provided that the after-market part caused the failure. If you need further clarification, contact your vehicles service department. Some are easier to deal with than others.
What size drill bit would you recommend for the second hole?
1/4" works. You can use the existing holes in the bracket as a guide as well.
Installing on my 22 5.0 but the clips don’t fit as the battery placement is different. Making a video on it hoping to make it work.
That's correct. On 2021 and up models you will use the lock nuts instead of the clips.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 Yep I just used what was in the kit, install went well, thank you!
I'm having the same problem on my 2021 f150 5.0
@@jasonventamiglia217 21 and up use the locknuts and not the clips.
@@jasonventamiglia217 Please see step#5 of the directions for the 2021+ hardware. www.jlosc.com/content/instructions/3016P.pdf
I purchased the J and L oil seperator. 3 weeks later I got a check engine light come on. It says crank case seals and or connection problem. Is this normal???
Definitely not normal and most likely unrelated. Please reach out to info@jlosc.com for tech support.
Would you recommend trimming hoses for a cleaner fit are the tan connectors reusable?
You could, especially on 5.0 applications. I would suggest you cut the hoses off on the oil separator side, trim and reinstall. Be sure to use oil or grease for lubrication to help with sliding the hoses back onto the fittings.
Hi J&L
I live in Saudi Arabia, where unfortunately we are not able to get your latest products. However, I found JLT products on some shops here and on Amazon.
My question is: I’m driving a 21 powerboost f150. Can 3016P JLT can fit my truck?
The 3016P kit has been installed by some of our customers on the power boost truck it is just difficult due to the battery tray not having the adequate room needed to mount the bracket fully. It is recommended to use the 3028P kit which fits perfectly.
What about the pcv hose on the driver side? 2019 2.7
In our experience that side (AKA the clean side) collects little to nothing in comparison to the passenger side. Feel free to reach out to info@jlosc.com for a more detailed explanation.
Got it slightly longer install than said if you’re not 6 feet tall, also removing the blue tab FORd Hoses was easy as was installing the green rimmed hoses supplied, truck mpg seems to already have improved but I pulled on the JL hose to see how easy it would be to replace the Pcv valve itself and not wanting to damage it I wasn’t able to easily remove the JL hoses can you explain or show in a video how to do this, I’ve worked on vehicles for years but never really Fords and this is my first so I don’t wann tear up the new hoses but I’d like to replace the pcv valve soon
Says "push" on the connection. You have to push down or in on it while pushing the lock release at the same time. Almost need a long thumb nail to do it.
@@jameskenney3389 so push down on the pcv valve and the green connector doesnt have a tab like the blue tab on the ford so i pry the green plastic up while pushing down, sorry, all my work has been on foreign and military vehicles ive never seen hoses like this in 30 years of mild tuning and tinkering.
You don't need to pull the green plastic up at all as this will damage the fitting. Simply push on the green part that says push and pull the fitting up off of the PCV valve. Feel free to contact us at info@jlosc.com if you have further questions.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 that covers it thank you for the time and answers, prolly seems stupid but id rather ask a simple question than break something. Especially when its working so well already.
Does the metal not form condensation and get sucked into the intake manifold? That would be my only concern.
In the colder months there will be condensation from the hot air in the can being hit with cold outside air. However, checking the can contents and emptying more frequently will prevent anything from getting sucked into the intake manifold.
Should you replace the PCV valve when you do the install?
You could, they are easily and cheap enough to replace. If you vehicle already has 60k+ miles on it, it's not a bad idea at all.
I’m assuming that the first installation was for the 2.7? I THINK that you said; 2.7…..with the Captions on, it came out; Q7.
If you mean at 2min54 seconds, yes it's a 2.7.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 thanks for your response. I bought your unit a month ago and haven’t yet installed it. The video will be of much assistance.
For the 3/8s plug that is included for supercharged 5.0 applications, what do I do with it?
That plug is for any blower set up that has a waste line that needs to be capped. If your set up only has two connections, not a "T" type connection, then it is not needed. To our knowledge the Whipple set ups do not need this plug.
Any issues with these freezing in colder climates?
In colder weather the can will create condensation inside of it. If the can is completely full and freezes it will create problems. Staying on top of regular checking and emptying in the winter months is very important.
I just purchased this for the passenger side of my ‘17 with the 5.0, do I also need the drivers side can?
Hey Kit,
In our experience just the passenger "dirty side" will cover about 99% of owners, the only time we see oil out of the driver side is in extreme situations especially on the 5.0. Extreme would be road course racing in a Mustang GT with the similar engine.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 Thank you so much for the reply! Love your product! 👍🏼
Those j clips did not work on my 2021 tremor
Correct, the 21+ trucks will use the supplied lock nuts instead of the J-clips. We're working on updating the video for the newer years to clear this up.
@@jloilseparatorco.1853 yeah, I lost some time trying to use them due to thinking I had to, the lock nuts did the trick.
Has this ever been Dyno'd to see if there is an improvement in performance? I know that's not the primary objective for these but it would be interesting to know.
2022 F150 5.0L
The only improvement in performance would happen over time by keeping things cleaner and not diluting fuel.
Is this needed on the 2021 2.7 eco boost too?
Sorry for the delayed response. These are beneficial on all motors.
I have a 2011 Ecoboost 3.5 with 230000 mls. This would probably be a great idea! I drive a lot. I will be getting this. Is there anything I can do to flush out the engine? Also, I thought the PCV was suppose to do most of what your item does?
Sorry for the delayed response. Most dealerships or repair shops offer different types of carbon clean ups to try and clean the engine before installing the oil separator. The PCV system is what moves the air with the oil residue from the engine to the intake tract. What our product does is catch that oil before making it to the intake. Here is a link to a video that explains the process a little better: ua-cam.com/video/nTpUjiCsPK8/v-deo.html