Hell yeah! You've got this route dialed in! Nice work. I was watching thinking, "when does the 5.12 start?" and then it was like, "ohhhh, right there!" Good job. I can't imagine trying to onsite this route!!!!
Would be a nightmare trying to onsite this route. Love the footage and the climbing. Felt very real. The double pro before a hard move, the frantic pro mid way through a hard move, the awkward chalk ups. Gives me hope to climb this level too!
Nice work on the send calm and collected! in addition that was great Rope drag management!! Reminded me of the New river gorges face trad and that line looks sickK
At the first half I was like, thats nowhere close to 5.12... but the last few moves with the last two gear placement looks hard and pumpy! Nice focused climbing with safe placements! Grat!
You now it's good when your hands are sweating while watching you pull the crux. Nice foot work and placing gear while pulling the roof. I myself never got on anything that hard (80's) but it sure was fun seeing it for the first time. Nothing But Strong
Awesome! Great rope management. Well done! Bein did the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this with no cams. Lots of Chouinard straight sided stoppers in opposition. Those guys (Bragg, Raffa, Clune, Bein, et al) were animals of the good kind.
Totally agree. In the early days of clean climbing we used to actually hand on, fit a nut in a crack (sometimes getting it wrong and hanging on longer), clipping in and moving on. No cams. Cams clearly make placements easier. That’s progress
This was a great watch! Never been to gunks but been down the red new and reeds this summer and fall. Still new to climbing. Started in the spring but followed a few really fun Trad routes and led some stuff most climbers would free solo I’m sure 😂 But this is the greatest sport to humble the ego aside from jiu jitsu. I feel weightless some days and others I feel like I have an 80lb bag of concrete attached to my hips. But either way I just keep climbin. Subscribed and hope to see more inspiring videos and maybe see ya out and about some day!
Nice work keeping your composure through those runouts! Surprised you didn't use lockers on some of those single rope end connections (like the edelrid strike slider).
Dynos at the end!!! What the hell, well done. I started climbing in the gunks in the 60s and never did get used to the crap protection. I was a NH climber at heart with actual cracks that worked (vertical). That is really ballsy trusting that pro. It’ll never hold you, but if it helps your mind relax: cool. Best Regards
Ok I was like what's happening here that looks hella sketch but that makes sense. Rope drag especially on anything remotely sharp is my biggest fear . It's easy to cut something under tension it's how Michelle caminati took that ground fall.
first 9 minutes 5.7. next shit looks hard but it looks quite soft for a 12... and its a short section. it looks like the fear with the roof artificially makes this a 12 or maybe its what the fisheye does to this. i mean look at the holds near the tough section, its either four finger ledges, or jugs. still horrifying nonetheless
This guy extends. That finishing crux is gorgeous, whipping out into space there sounds like it could be just as fun as sending it!
Could you imagine getting to the anchor and the biners are locked.
lmao
🤮
A-m-a-z-i-n-g, very well tactically placed gears and calm climbing on a 7a+...
Hell yeah! You've got this route dialed in! Nice work. I was watching thinking, "when does the 5.12 start?" and then it was like, "ohhhh, right there!" Good job. I can't imagine trying to onsite this route!!!!
Thanks! I tried it ground up...and (obviously) failed. The roof is cryptic without any beta, and a hold broke so it's hard for 12a.
@@wouldwhip yea that roof looks super choss, like a hold would just break at any moment.
@@TaylorONEism93 The rock's bomber in the gunks; even micro nuts can hold falls. It was just a small break on a hollow hold.
goddamn that crux move at the end looks terrifying. even with doubling up your pro. excellent job mang! i wanna be like you when i grow up.
Would be a nightmare trying to onsite this route. Love the footage and the climbing. Felt very real. The double pro before a hard move, the frantic pro mid way through a hard move, the awkward chalk ups. Gives me hope to climb this level too!
Nice work on the send calm and collected! in addition that was great Rope drag management!! Reminded me of the New river gorges face trad and that line looks sickK
At the first half I was like, thats nowhere close to 5.12... but the last few moves with the last two gear placement looks hard and pumpy! Nice focused climbing with safe placements! Grat!
Ah, came on, its easy ..... 😉 I mean the start, the rest looks f... hart! Very nice video!
I’ve never been more anxious in my life than I was while watching this video - my hands are soaked. Amazing climb dude!
12:20 - total beast. Nice work man totally enjoyed watching this.
You now it's good when your hands are sweating while watching you pull the crux. Nice foot work and placing gear while pulling the roof. I myself never got on anything that hard (80's) but it sure was fun seeing it for the first time. Nothing But Strong
I kept thinking, it's steep, but the holds look really positive. Then BOOM it smacks you in the face. Really well done!
Your buddy: great climb! You: Thanks! Now clear the route!
Like a boss!
So awesome man!! Wow! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼🤩
Awesome! Great rope management. Well done! Bein did the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this with no cams. Lots of Chouinard straight sided stoppers in opposition. Those guys (Bragg, Raffa, Clune, Bein, et al) were animals of the good kind.
Awesome to hear this bit of history -- hard to imagine leading the upper crux without cams! I have my sights on a few Bragg routes at the moment.
Totally agree. In the early days of clean climbing we used to actually hand on, fit a nut in a crack (sometimes getting it wrong and hanging on longer), clipping in and moving on. No cams. Cams clearly make placements easier. That’s progress
beautiful execution
did u onsight this??
@@ZacharyRanck No, the crux is hard to read. I fell at the roof previously. Would have been a miracle to bring only the exact right rack!
This was a great watch! Never been to gunks but been down the red new and reeds this summer and fall. Still new to climbing. Started in the spring but followed a few really fun Trad routes and led some stuff most climbers would free solo I’m sure 😂
But this is the greatest sport to humble the ego aside from jiu jitsu. I feel weightless some days and others I feel like I have an 80lb bag of concrete attached to my hips. But either way I just keep climbin.
Subscribed and hope to see more inspiring videos and maybe see ya out and about some day!
Great footage!
oh man that #4 placement....
Yikes, it looks terribly shallow in real life, but I can confirm it holds a fall, no problem.
Thank you, that was awesome.
dude... sick
Amazing climb. Great job
Well done!
Great job man! 🤘🏼
Good job man :D
Truly impressive
Epic climb!
sickkkkkkkk
Can I ask what you filmed this with? It's awesome footage!! Thanks for the video!
I think it's a GoPro Hero 9 on 60 fps.
Nice work keeping your composure through those runouts! Surprised you didn't use lockers on some of those single rope end connections (like the edelrid strike slider).
Good suggestion. Perhaps best not to entertain any possibility of falling on this prior to the roof, though.
Outstanding send, but outstanding footage also! Do you recall your GoPro settings by any chance?
Pretty sure it's just one of the default settings with 1080p 60fps
@@wouldwhip Thanks!
Excellent!
Damn
My toxic trait telling me this is easy, until you got to the boulder problem lol!
nice! did you guys build that anchor at the top before hand?
Cool climb man nice job
That sloper and crimp at 12:09 while on an overhang.... crux?
Yes - moving to the sloper is probably the hardest move, but the toss to the final jug isn't easy.
Dynos at the end!!! What the hell, well done. I started climbing in the gunks in the 60s and never did get used to the crap protection. I was a NH climber at heart with actual cracks that worked (vertical). That is really ballsy trusting that pro. It’ll never hold you, but if it helps your mind relax: cool. Best Regards
what do you mean it will never hold you... horizontal pro can be very bomber if using the right cams and good contact.
Of course it holds. The days of "the leader must not fall" are over. I whip on horizontal placements every weekend.
I'm learning to trad climb, on this route would it have been better to use a double rope instead of all those mega extended cams? Nice send!
Yes, could be better, but I find double ropes a bit fiddly and rarely carry them. More beneficial on Scary Area (to the right), I think.
brv !!great
Do you always rack with an alpine attached to each piece? Or was it specific to this climb? Super efficient. Any setbacks?
Only when I know the exact rack required for the route. I had tried this route previously.
Longest extensions ever
Whatd you film this on?
how long is your rope ?
What length rope do you use?
Kinda confused as to why your draws were so extended out with the slings ? Any explanation behind that ?
It's to prevent rope drag because the route traverses widely to the left and right
@@MarcoClimbsClassics for sure.
Ok I was like what's happening here that looks hella sketch but that makes sense. Rope drag especially on anything remotely sharp is my biggest fear . It's easy to cut something under tension it's how Michelle caminati took that ground fall.
@@vilja1 In this case it's more about reducing friction at the crux.
@@wouldwhip ok yea that's good to know I'm just starting to dip my toes in sport climbing heading out to Lincoln lake tomorrow ever been out there ?
Thats a long pitch!
What shoes ya got on?
BD Aspect. Great all-day trad shoe, but I usually wear something more aggressive for more technical stuff.
@@wouldwhip Gotcha, thanks dude. Nice climbing btw
where is this?
Gunks
If you climbed on half-ropes you wouldn't need to extend the gear so far. Solid lead either way.
Hard to watch. Get a drone.
first 9 minutes 5.7. next shit looks hard but it looks quite soft for a 12... and its a short section. it looks like the fear with the roof artificially makes this a 12 or maybe its what the fisheye does to this. i mean look at the holds near the tough section, its either four finger ledges, or jugs. still horrifying nonetheless
can't really agree with you. this route is on the hard side of 5.12a. the crux just happens to be short.
@@wouldwhip
Agree. Dyno moves on finger tips is a 50/50. Looks different and scary
The Gunks aren't soft with their grading.
Lol what an ignorant take
13 minutes flew by