Climbing Chat: Is this the best belay setup of 2024?
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
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Very kind 👊
I've found the using the rope as the anchor trick to really be useful when belaying my second on the top out pitch. Since it eliminates the biggest worry of needing more rope later or changing out ends. It's definitely fast and a useful truck to know if you get off route and need to create an improvised belay with lots of protection that's far apart. Great demo!
Glad you liked the video and glad the setup works well for you!
Been talking to mountain rescue? We use rigging like this loads!
Hi i love your videos so much,it was so helpfull. I would like to know how to build an top rope anchor in uk. I know it have many different ways to do it😅
Hi mate, thanks for this, we climb as a 3 and swing leads on multi pitch’s, after seeing this we got a PIP each and having tried this method this weekend it made a huge difference and made it a lot less faf at the belay etc. massive thumbs up from us, keep the great vids coming!
That's awesome, glad it worked well for you!
I do this method often in Saxon Switzerland. Although with rope drag and walking far sometimes I don’t pull up all that rope and clip a couple of alpine butterflies together instead. Prefer doing a big overhand like that but sometimes it is a long walk at the top of the sandstone tower and pulling a little less rope is nice. Once there was so much drag I tied the rope to the abseil point and walked back protecting myself with a prussic until I was back close enough to the edge to pull up more rope, make a master point, and safely go to the edge again. Think I added some more gear beside me then
Love this variation of the direct in-line trad anchor. Using a BFK is great for minimizing the number of locking 'biners, I tend to just have an HMS 'biner as the master point and the "arms" of the belay clove-hitched into it. I like this system because it is escapable (which I've used a couple of times), good for guide-mode belaying, and handles spaced anchor placements (very common in the UK). I've used it block leading - as you describe it works just fine - but I do tend to instead default to a long sling anchor when block leading if possible.
Just a good, straight forward demonstration. Perfect! Thanks and cheers 🥂
Cheers 👊
It's ounces of the top anchors for 24 seasons! Always learning from you! Gracias
Before tying a BFK in the rope, i personally prefer using accessory cord then, which i can then easily leave at the belay to lead the next pitch, if necessary.
Beside that, using only the rope (with munters and biners) i like too, even when it´s not necessary, but it has a lot of advantages, like coming closer to a far away ledge, to have way better view.
Here in germany, the more schoolbook methods are belaying from the anchor, without having view to the follower(s), like when there is a big ledge to stand on.
Pretty common thing in the easier multipitch routes.
So any methods have pros and cons, and the best method, not only for 2024, is to choose out of all those existing methods the most appropriate for the situation.
I often use this set up. Like it.
I think I learnt it from you.
First of all, I love your videos, and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
But Man, I don't know about this belay. Definitely good to know in case you need to extend your belay. But other than that, I see absolutely no advantage above good old sling. Yeah you can tow a train on this thing and in case you have a really bad day and lose all your slings, hopefully at least the rope is still on you 😅
But seriously I am curious is there any other advantage apart from durability and extension? Even the extension is a bit questionable considering how much rope this belay uses. There are other ways how to build a belay from a rope that uses significantly less of the rope (well 1/3rd less) and are much clearer to inspect. Why would you decide to do this rather than a premade sling (is an extension is not the case)?
Often pieces are too far apart for a sling to reach, especially here in the UK. Of course there’s other rope options but this one is adjustable all in one spot which helps make it super quick and often works well.
I love a sling belay but they don’t always work, the longest I’ll ever carry is one 240cm and there’s tons of times when it’s not the right option.
As always, this setup is just one option 💪
In a more trad style belay, the anchor points often are further away, and the use of the rope is just way more easy.
I teached multipitch climbing in germany the DAV way on bolted routes of course, but privatly i often do it trad and more UK Style belaying.
There is nothing wrong with it, every method has it´s pros and cons.
Just chatting to a few climb partners about this today, escaping the system is something I found I wasn't and many others are not encouraged to think about. I went through a rather rigorous training year for rock climbing and it was only mentioned a couple of times, where as the rope anchor setup (not done as it was here) was put on a pedestal despite being rather inefficient
Escaping the system is definitely a consideration, but it’s a rare event to actually need to.
@JBMountainSkills Bit like a seatbelt though isn't it. It's VERY rare that it is actually put in to action but it would be daft not to put it on. IF you did need it (the escapable system) you'd be bloody thankful you had it! Escaping a captive system is a ball ache especially when the pressure is on!
If your rope is tied up in the anchor, you can descend at most half the rope you have left. If your rope is not in the anchor, you can descend all of the rope you have left
So if a pitch is a half rope length, and your buddy gets in trouble at the bottom, you can’t descend to them if the rope is part of the anchor (without rebuilding the anchor while loaded)
Seems worth considering, but there’s tradeoffs with every system and efficiency is a worthwhile objective too
@@somanayr you could “down prusik”. As you say each system has pros and cons 💪
@@JBMountainSkills Oof, yeah you could do that if you had to!
"Legend" as always JB 👊
👊
Should do some wild camping vids with the boy 👍
Great vid and using the rope is like a UK version of what they're doing abroad with lengths of cord. We use a 4m sling for everything as I'm often block leading. 4m sounds excessive but they are a 'do al'l item. Many of our friends are coming over to them.
Like your videos but that anchorsystem using the rope is too much faff and very limited compared to a sling. A sling gives you more options and independence.
What if slings won’t reach far apart anchors? That’s pretty common.
I usually have a 240 and 180 sling when trad climbing. If that isn't enough then I doubt that is a good place for an anchor. Could of course complete with the rope.
You were talking about the best belay setup, rope aint it, maybe thats why most people (outside Uk) abandoned it. @@JBMountainSkills
We have so many belays where even a 240 won’t be remotely close enough. We have to use the rope in some shape or form. Best belay? No of course not, that’s pure click bait.
@@JBMountainSkills people here in europe, doesn´t do much trad, especially no trad anchors, therefore there used to bolted anchors even in so called trad routes.
using the rope has a lot of advantages, it stretches way more, and you have a lot of it with you anyway.
I use a lot of UK style for my own climbing, when it´s appropriate for the situation.
knowing a lot of different methods is key to make good decisions.
All the best.