Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In todays part one video of the Johnson Viking II we take a look at electrically restoring this radio.
Support us on Patreon;
/ theradioshop
Contact Information;
gokarters.com/s...
Discuss this on my website;
www.gokarters.com/smf
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LC7OjuYAOQE/mqdefault.jpg)
That wasn't a radio, but more like a badly abused toaster oven. Complete with burned bits. What a mess! You have the most amazing patience and ability to sort it all out and make it look great again. Thanks for sharing, Buddy!
Thanks for the kind words my friend. Really has been done in by someone. Coming together though.
probably some old Chicken Bander that heard it would make mega watts ;)
I'm a tech my self but no where near as experienced as you but i hope to one day be....The way you work through each part so methodically is actually soothing to a guy like me....I almost feel like I am being smoothed around my ruff edges mentally just watching you lol.....Glad I ran across you bud.
Thanks for the kind words. I try and make my videos so everyone can follow.
It’s such a good feeling when you can renew the life cycle of such classic equipment!
Yes and very relaxing doing so. Why I love it so much. Repairing one in this shape you have to love it or be crazy! Thanks Bob.
OMG! The Boat Anchor Gods were really wanting this one to live on! That's why they made sure it came into your hands! Great video as usual Buddy!
Thanks for that great comment Larry. To be honest I almost set this one aside. But it got the best of me. She must live on.
You are a Jedi Master at bringing these radios back to life. I look forward to the next episode.
Have a great weekend.
Thanks for the kind words B. Nothing special. Just patience.
I left a comment and look who was under my comment lol :) My buddy!
I am a big fan of new caps they are made so much better now ,and for resister I like use when ever possible metalize film resistors ,and I just started buying high temp silicone wire to see how that works for me in areas that get warm ,but I watch your videos I still have a lot to learn ,thanks for your videos sir .
My oh my, what a mess that was at the start. Seeing you work through the stages is great. Your patience is admirable. Thank you for sharing.
Takes a lot of patience Bill. Four weeks in and no telling how much more. Will be worth it. Thanks
It was sure messed up but you sure straightened it up Buddy, nice job.
Thanks Bill. Yep in bad shape. She will be right when finished.
All I can say is wow! Nice bodge job! :) A lot of work, but I appreciate you saving the ol' gal. ~Jack, VEG
Thanks Jack, she was in sad shape for sure. Thanks for stopping in.
Nice job restoring that Viking II transmitter. Great to see the inner workings of that transmitter along with the schematic diagrams and explanations. Also good to see that Tek 465 O'scope still in use. That was and still is my favorite analog scope. :-)
Thanks Dean. It is a mess but still a fun project. That Tek works a charm.
Another excellent video, Buddy. Thank you for taking the time to resurrect this old gal. In her day, she was the queen of the shack and deserves to be back on the air. Looking forward to part-II plus any additional parts you might have to do on her. 73 de K7RMJ Frank
Thanks Frank. Really fun to work on these but I should have stripped it and started from scratch. Just time is the problem.
You're right, that was simply a miracle that the rig worked before you started the repair process! Looking forward to Part II. 73 - Dino KL0S
Yes it is a tough one to work on. They really abuse this rig, Thanks Dino
What a mess excellent work Buddy as usual!
Thanks Alan. It must live!
Thats a lot of work man, rewarding yes, but still, sometimes you just know immediately it's going to be a complete back to stock job. Glad you're saving it, not many folks would take the time. 73 Buddy!
It is a lot of work, just cannot let it goes to the way side. Must restore! Honestly it is very relaxing to do.
I agree with you Buddy does it right .
I've had a few Heathkits like that over the years. Sometimes it's easier to just strip everything out and start from scratch using the manual to build the kit from the beginning. 73 Doug.
I agree Doug. It did come to mind to do that. Rip it all out and start over. Thanks for watching.
Coming along nicely buddy big thumbs up 👍
Thanks alan
I'm rebuilding one exactly like this one. Those grounds loops that burn are the current shunts for the meter!
That's right, ni-chrome resistive wire. Pain to solder to. These are burnt up pretty bad. I have already made some new ones. Will cover it in part two. Thanks for watching.
I'd never take anything to the *IDIOT* that last work on this unit!! Glad to see you do this right!
Great video Buddy! Makes the one I just released look petty ha! 73 Michael, KE4EST
Thanks my friend. You are doing a great job with yours. Keep at it.
I'm half blind and have unsteady hands these days and can still solder better than whoever butchered that poor Johnson. You have quite a job ahead of you Buddy. No envy from me but looking forward to seeing it in working order again. I don't think I would have the patience for a job like that anymore.
Thanks. Takes a lot of patience for sure. Not sure what the guy was thinking that built this one.
Hi Buddy. My Viking II stock with good c1 and c54, I ran the mike gain at 4 using an Electrovoice 611 dynamic to give the mod peak current at the red line on the meter. The 611 was a great match for lifelike audio, not to bassy nor tinny. Properly loaded, grid 5 to 6 ma, plate 230 ma, I think the red line on the meter was mod current of 160 ma peaks. Mine did 105 watts on 80m and 90 on 10m. I killed a pair of 6146's cause I thought the red line was grid :-( ooops! and since I didn't have any more 6146's I put in a 12.6v transformer and lifted one end of the 6.3v line to the filaments and put 12.6v there and put in 6883's :-) which I had a bunch of. That's my Viking II story and it's still working. Had a ball on 10m back in the 80's and 90's.
Thanks for that story OJ, I love hearing that. Good deal on the 6883 swap. Guess we all make mistakes at time. I do not think the book is clear on that so defiantly a trap.
The way that looked underneath just lucky something didn't short out. I had a DX100 Transmitter I bought for $10 at Ham and HiFi from the owner of Ham and HiFi it had no tubes but had the documents from the previous owner. I was working on that one and it was modified but at least the previous owner left documentation of what he had done it made life so much easier. Looks like you have your work cut out for you on this one Buddy.
It is nice when they have documentation on the mods. Who ever done this one I am sure they do not want to be known lol. Thanks Larry
All I can say is wow
Same thing I said when I took the cover off. Followed by "you must be kidding"!!
Well... Well. As we sit here buddy, I'm just as shocked as you. But on the other hand it's good that your exposing the childish approach that some so called mechanic with all thumbs worked on this unit. As we know this revelation will not curb the abuse of the electronics. Thank god your there to save us......
Thanks Pierre. This one is getting the best of me. But we will prevail!
That one needs to be stamped "Bubba's Been Here!"
PS: I'm surprised that you powered that up given the condition of the wiring.
I’ve been following your UA-cam channel for quite a while, and I’ve learned a lot! Many thanks. I have a repair situation that I’m hoping you can provide some suggestion for. I use a Flex 6500 for my HF transceiver. I have a 2M transverter and amp connected to it. Both devices are keyed by the 6500 using an open collector connection the 6500 provides (TX3), providing a switched ground. During the recent VHF contest, I discovered that the TX3 outputs was stuck in a constant “on” position. The open collector transistor is obviously shorted. Sounds like an easy repair, right? Flex has a hard and fast policy not to assist anyone in self repair, nor have they released any schematics. Their only rersponse is, send it in. So, I’m faced with finding the surface mount transistor and replacing it. Do to the density of the two PCB’s it’s impossible to do it visually. My idea was to inject a low-level RF signal into the TX3 output connection. I’m thinking of making a very small loop, maybe ¼” connected to my spectrum analyzer and trying to sniff out the connection. Have you ever been faced with such a situation? What I’m unsure about is because the transistor is shorted, won’t the RF be all over the radio on the ground plane?
not being a wiseacre, but first find out what caused it to blow!
what has worked for me in the past, just a (decent very low power) meter on continuity and randomly poke around until you track it down.. not sure how dense/small component the board is, but I'm sure all the I/O ports are fairly well RF shunted to ground, so tracing that way will likely be fruitless
I could be wrong, but I think you replaced the plate and mod meter shunts with regular copper wire and they should have been ni-chrome. Near the 5R4 tube sockets. Yours have green insulation. The shunt resistance is super low, tenths of an ohm as I recall, hence the ni-chrome wire. Like I say, I could be wrong. But, wow, you've done a great job so far on the restoration of a great transmitter. I have a Viking II and it's fun to use.
They were the original wires but the insulation was burnt off. I cleaned them up and slid green insulation over the wires and dipped the ends in copper so the solder would stick better. However I do think the shunts were heated too much Need to find some new shunt material. Thanks for the comment.
Very good and thanks for the reply. Good luck with the shunts. 73.
real restoration work!
you know what, the more you show, the more it looks like they used a torch to solder with!
Agreed. The more I find the worse it becomes. I almost have it licked now.
What a chore...
Good for the brain :-)
Very nice. It would be interesting to know what tests you performed during various steps in the first start up. Much of that knowledge has been lost. I am sure you didn't't just plug it in and hit the switch. Did you test individual components or basically check current draw? Your methods are of interest.
Hi Buddy, did you locate the Viking II Interstage transformer that you needed?
Hi Terry, no I have not ordered one yet. I did send you an email reply though.
I know what caused it, though this seems to be a fairly common problem. Randomly looking is almost impossible. It’s a dual layer pcb, and it jumps from one side to the other several times.
Memories Back in the early 60s I had a neighbor who had A Johnson ?. It had a pair of 866a in the power supply He was always on 160m. I always wanted one but could never afford it with a paper route.
Seems like the kits were around 280 bucks back then. That's 2400 bucks today. Yep, paper route want cut it lol. Thanks for sharing,.
Man did this guy use acid core solder?
Had a DX-100 but never one of these. Get your elbow grease flowing, and they should shine up just fine!
Going to take a bucket of elbow grease but will be fun.
Somebodies handy work wasn't to good. Hope they did not wire their own house. A lot of good work has to be done to that unit but then it's done it's a keeper. Thanks Buddy always great videos.
Yeah, this must have been there first rig to work on lol. Thanks Lyle.
Did they replace the 'nuclear resistor'?
No internal vfo in these so no nuclear resistor.
Did they solder this thing with a blow torch?
And plumper solder
I just said the same thing before reading other comments, lol.
6:02 + would probably imbalance the circuit, but maybe not enough to hurt it and not sure what the original setup looked like, maybe it was that way from factory sans the chokes?
seeing it the two tubes to variable cap, other wiring and choke, which appears to be for DC ground shunting if a tube shorts internally, it may not be an issue unless trashy harmonic signals occur.
I'm no engineer, nor spark/junk-tronics god, so please take the above is "to be taken with a grain of salt" :)
You are pretty much spot on. The original setup the choke is attached to the center of a link wire then to the tubes. I have my suspicions on what this rig was used for.
At 16:15, why do the green wires have a loop?
They are not just wires but resistive shunts made from ni-chrome wire.. Almost impossible to solder so I copper plated the ends.
@@TheRadioShop
Sounds like magic to me.
""mods gone wild" yep, I can only guess some magical positive peak modulation mod lol
You got that right!
I'd like to say that this looks like it was originally built by a 10 year-old. But that would be insulting to 10 year-olds. They'd probably do a better job. Wow, I've never seen such a mess that worked.
It is unbelievable George. I know the camera does not show the details as in real. Very poor job.
John at joernone has a Viking II he does not need
Needs to find it a home...I need to check his videos, have not watched them in a while.
Its at 29:30 on his most recent video - John is a great guy I know you would get on with him just fine
hello my friend was a little away then if you have watsap are you interested in sharing min confirm thanks a py7aom fort 73
Hi Antonio, always happy to share.
I wonder if the person who reduced this rig to junk is watching this.
From the age of the capacitors he use, most likely long gone.
@@TheRadioShop :)
I didn't do it ...lololol