TESTING THE REPAIRS TO GENERAC ESSENTIAL CIRCUITS TRANSFER SWITCH
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- This video is not a "How To" video for DIY'ers. It's intended to show people what may happen to cause particular symptoms and the possible repairs required while explaining what is entailed.
Two previous videos; "Generac Transfer Switch Failure To Transfer" and "Replacing C1 After A Catastrophic Failure" were made prior to this video of testing the repairs.
While searching for a replacement coil C1 I found one on eBay for twenty dollars plus shipping. Its condition looked exactly like the burnt up coil that I removed. So beware of such great finds or you could buy something to place in your trash.
I tested the generator prior to testing the Remote Transfer Switch. I wanted to make sure that it was 100% operational. Partly due to it having to produce the proper voltage - or the RTS won't transfer. The other part being that it wouldn't help to have an unhealthy generator with a healthy RTS. The last part being that I didn't feel the homeowner wanted me filming the trip through their house.
The generator is fine. It's in "AUTO" and I have a Green LED on the generator status LED's.
NOW, to test the RTS by removing the Utility Power via the Circuit Breaker.
good info brother
What size breaker are you fitting your RTS generator transfer panel ? and what size generator do you have?
These essential circuit remote transfer switches are 100 Amp panels. They are used on multiple sizes of Generac generators as long as their current rating is not exceeded.
This particular generator is only an 8KW and can only supply 33 Amps at 240 Volt. You want to match the Utility circuit breaker to the breaker in the generator or the generator won't be able to support the circuits in the essential circuits panel.
I don't like the generator to run flat out so I install the next size circuit breaker rounded down, or in this case a 30 Amp Double Pole Breaker..
You're looking at the wire gauge.
Yes, I used a larger wire gauge to bring in the Utility Power. A #6 rated for much more current. A #10 to bring in the Generator Power.
As long as the circuit breaker is manufactured to accept the larger wire size it's copacetic.
As it looks like a company name, I'm guessing you knew that. Fair question just the same.
I did get sidetracked. I showed how the Utility Power comes in on the top of the Transfer Switch and travels straight through when operating on Utility Power. I wish I had explained that in a Utility Power Loss the transfer switch automatically transfers to the Generator Power which comes in on the bottom and goes right back out on the bottom to the breakers - when operating on generator power.
Next time I'll use an Audio Visual Voltage Detector as well. My Amprobe model seems a bit camera shy.
Thank you for your question.
I had the coil melt on mine , the issue is that I had the unit replaced and it won’t transfer back to utility after the generator shuts down after sensing utility is back on.
Has it been fixed? What did you find?
When you say that you had the unit replaced are you talking about the whole entire Transfer Switch? If new, it should be covered by warranty.
If installed by a contractor - they typically warrant their work for one year.
The ones I've worked on use limit switches so that power is placed on the transfer coil for only enough time to complete the transfer. Then it's routed back to the other coil awaiting to transfer. (This is to transfer in either direction; to the generator OR to utility power - whichever way it's waiting to go.)
If your generator shut off with the return of utility power then I would have to assume that N1 and N2 are good and telling the generator that the utility power is back. (Generac uses N1 and N2.)
I would have the Transfer Switch looked at. There's quite a bit. Wires, limit switches, relay, coils and even linkage.
@@snowman6686 found out it was the utility transfer relay it was stuck , barely tapped it and it works now. Ordered a new one just incase for 29 bucks
Snowman, I just had the same issue today.
The upper coil slightly burned, which is preventing the transfer back to utility power...
Even with both Utility and Generator Power off, i couldn't move the lever back to utility.
It was doing what it is supposed to do until i turned utility back on....Generator Shut down but the lever never switched back to the utility power.
Maybe because the Upper Coil (Utility coil) smoldered it got the Plunger stuck?
I was thinking of just reordering the Utility Coil@@snowman6686
My upper Coil melted which is preventing the lever to go back to utility power.
My plunger is stuck, because i can not manually move the lever up.
Thinking of ordering upper coil, which is the utility coil and plunger.@@snowman6686
That small relay never saw any heat. The black is from the tape on the big coil burning off. You can actually clean it with a little Fantastic (or similar) on a rag. BTW, the failure point on the big coil is due to the internal diode pack going bad... usually from a voltage spike. With a bit of practice that job is no more than 20-30 minutes... and it helps if you have the right screwdriver. Of course, it also helps if you have 25 years doing this in the field.
I think i have a top coil failure this morning. I can manually switch it (for he city power) but nothing flows thru. I am stuck running the generator all weekend or longer til it gets fixed. Any insites?
@@WayneTX254 ... if there's no black marks and you can manually move the switch all the way but there's no power the whole contactor may be no good... but let's not jump the gun just yet. You can try resetting the main breaker just in case that has tripped. (it may be outside) You can also take a look at the meter outside. If the meter is blank, then your power is actually out. If the digital display shows numbers or is flashing, then you likely have power to that point and something else is wrong between the meter and the transfer switch. If I was there, I could probably track the issue within 5 minutes. It's something I did for over 25 years. BTW, you can also call the power company and they will verify things up to the meter.... but inside repairs are between you and your electrician.
@@rupe53 power company said i have power. There are 2 outside breakers, one for a pool and one for a separate garage. They are working with generator off. Everything else- through the xfer switch and into panel box in the garage - is not working from the grid. The solenoid is not switching on its own. If i manually switch it, it only works on generator side. It was all installed by a reputable electrician. I'll be calling them monday morning. Gonna burn up some propane til its fixed.
@@WayneTX254 .... unless you are a real good DIY type I wouldn't dig much deeper into it other than perhaps a test light or test meter to figure out where the power stops. By code there should be a disconnect / breaker BEFORE the transfer switch, which is worth checking. That said, you can shut the gen off while you sleep, and the fridge will keep for 8 hours. During the day you can run 3-4 hour cycles to maintain other things as well, while saving quite a bit of fuel. BTW, if you decide to cycle the gen set, always stop / start with the generator circuit breaker in the off position. This prevents wild voltage swings as it comes up to speed.
@@rupe53 I only spent 12 years on a fire brigade achieving the position of Lieutenant. What do I know?
good video.. if I could hear you. Sound is crap. please re-edit and repost.
It's not the video. UA-cam playback is sometimes lackluster in performance. My 8kw oil change video sometimes has the video track leading the voice track which is really upsetting. I do try to write an explanation of the video directly below in the event it's needed.
I use UA-cam myself so I understand but I don't post for; money, a following or advertisement - just as an aid to those who are interested.
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