First, I want to thank you for directly illustrating the struggles of milling a large log on a small, fully manual mill like the LX50 Super. Second, I hope to offer some food for thought, although I don't purport to be a saw milling expert, just another gray haired guy. Btw, it's easy for me to sit on the sidelines and tell you what you might have done differently in the heat of the battle, so no criticism intended. In no particular order other than how the thoughts fall out of my head..... Milling on a small mill with no hydraulics was never thought to be a high production scenario, correct? So cutting thinner, easier to handle flitches, even if they are shorter due to taper than the log you have loaded, will be vastly easier to handle and thus more time efficient in the long run. Possibly more hands on, but far easier. Then those flitches will also be easier to handle manually if you're going to re-saw them later. There were a lot of 2Xs in those flitches. Cutting the sweep or root flare that won't fit through the throat seems like it would be far more productive if done with a chainsaw before you even load the log on the bunks. Keep in mind that area is also most likely to have blade destroying dirt embedded in the bark. Cutting the ears off before putting a log on the bunk does a few things including lowering the weight of the log to be handled, removes risk of running your chainsaw into the mill, and allows you to remove them in a place where you don't have to manhandle them away from your mill. Having a couple of 10" or 12" plastic felling wedges handy would help if you ever do need to back the blade out. Bang them into the kerf and back out without pressure on the blade. If you do need to back out of a cut and you can't open the kerf, would it help to keep the blade turning instead of static? I know first hand from running porta bands and recip saws that backing out of a stuck is easier with the blade moving. Moving cautiously is key. Boards or 4x4s dropped vertically between the bunks would stop your logs from rolling off the back side without risk of bending your backstops. Of course you would have to be considerate of the leverage created and not slam the logs against them and risk bending your rails. Remove boards before securing your log in place. Sorry, I felt like I had to include that last statement before some internet expert responds with "then you'll just ending up hitting the boards with the mill head" No you won't, not if you have any common sense, lol. The boards or 4x4s mentioned above can also come in handy for leveraging your logs around instead of risking bending your $100+ cant hook. A peavey sometimes works better than a cant hook. That's all I have for now, I'm only about 40 minutes into the video. That's a big log for any portable mill. Massive for the LX50. Great job in getting it milled! That's a beautiful mini ex you have....got my wheels turning. I'm subscribing because I think I can learn from your experiences.
Thank you for the comment. Funny but my wife just got me felling wedges for xmas. As I never remember to buy them and I said to her while milling once that I needed them so she remembered them. I do need to find a peavey, I have not used one since I was a kid. And totally agree that I need to trim the log up before it goes on the mill. All a huge learning curve. Again thanks for the comment and watching
@@SawdustandSap She must be a good wife, she listened, remembered, and carried through. I enjoyed watching your video and your real time problem solving as you dealt with that behemoth. Keep up the great work!
Hey there, I’m getting to the end of this video and I just have to say, I enjoyed watching it and struggled right along with you as i listened to you cursing lol. You say you don’t think it was worth sawing it but I think it was worth the schooling alone because I know i learned a lot from it and I’m sure you did as well. Question though, i am getting close to purchasing a Wood Mizer LX50 super and really want to know if you are happy with it. I noticed you might have struggled with the pull start on. I am 66 years old, retiring and the shoulders and joint’s aren’t what they used to be. The problem is you have to go up to the LT15 series to be able to get an electric start and that starts to get to be twice the cost….
Totally agree that I did learn a lot on that log. As far as the engine goes, most of the time, it pulls easy and fires up. But sometimes it does pop back and rip the cord out of your hand like any small engine does at times. If this engine ever needs replaced, it will get an electric start one next time. Overall, I totally am happy with the LX50 Super, of course there is things that could be better. And somethings I am going to change. It's kinda like driving a big truck, you adapt to the way it works the best. It cuts as big of log as I want to deal with and for $5000 or so with accessories and blades, I am making nice lumber. Not sure if i am saving money but it is a nice feeling to take your own tree and end up with a nice finished project. Thanks for watching and commenting
First, I want to thank you for directly illustrating the struggles of milling a large log on a small, fully manual mill like the LX50 Super. Second, I hope to offer some food for thought, although I don't purport to be a saw milling expert, just another gray haired guy. Btw, it's easy for me to sit on the sidelines and tell you what you might have done differently in the heat of the battle, so no criticism intended.
In no particular order other than how the thoughts fall out of my head.....
Milling on a small mill with no hydraulics was never thought to be a high production scenario, correct? So cutting thinner, easier to handle flitches, even if they are shorter due to taper than the log you have loaded, will be vastly easier to handle and thus more time efficient in the long run. Possibly more hands on, but far easier. Then those flitches will also be easier to handle manually if you're going to re-saw them later. There were a lot of 2Xs in those flitches.
Cutting the sweep or root flare that won't fit through the throat seems like it would be far more productive if done with a chainsaw before you even load the log on the bunks. Keep in mind that area is also most likely to have blade destroying dirt embedded in the bark. Cutting the ears off before putting a log on the bunk does a few things including lowering the weight of the log to be handled, removes risk of running your chainsaw into the mill, and allows you to remove them in a place where you don't have to manhandle them away from your mill.
Having a couple of 10" or 12" plastic felling wedges handy would help if you ever do need to back the blade out. Bang them into the kerf and back out without pressure on the blade.
If you do need to back out of a cut and you can't open the kerf, would it help to keep the blade turning instead of static? I know first hand from running porta bands and recip saws that backing out of a stuck is easier with the blade moving. Moving cautiously is key.
Boards or 4x4s dropped vertically between the bunks would stop your logs from rolling off the back side without risk of bending your backstops. Of course you would have to be considerate of the leverage created and not slam the logs against them and risk bending your rails. Remove boards before securing your log in place. Sorry, I felt like I had to include that last statement before some internet expert responds with "then you'll just ending up hitting the boards with the mill head" No you won't, not if you have any common sense, lol.
The boards or 4x4s mentioned above can also come in handy for leveraging your logs around instead of risking bending your $100+ cant hook.
A peavey sometimes works better than a cant hook.
That's all I have for now, I'm only about 40 minutes into the video. That's a big log for any portable mill. Massive for the LX50. Great job in getting it milled! That's a beautiful mini ex you have....got my wheels turning. I'm subscribing because I think I can learn from your experiences.
Thank you for the comment. Funny but my wife just got me felling wedges for xmas. As I never remember to buy them and I said to her while milling once that I needed them so she remembered them. I do need to find a peavey, I have not used one since I was a kid. And totally agree that I need to trim the log up before it goes on the mill. All a huge learning curve. Again thanks for the comment and watching
@@SawdustandSap She must be a good wife, she listened, remembered, and carried through.
I enjoyed watching your video and your real time problem solving as you dealt with that behemoth. Keep up the great work!
Hey there, I’m getting to the end of this video and I just have to say, I enjoyed watching it and struggled right along with you as i listened to you cursing lol. You say you don’t think it was worth sawing it but I think it was worth the schooling alone because I know i learned a lot from it and I’m sure you did as well. Question though, i am getting close to purchasing a Wood Mizer LX50 super and really want to know if you are happy with it. I noticed you might have struggled with the pull start on. I am 66 years old, retiring and the shoulders and joint’s aren’t what they used to be. The problem is you have to go up to the LT15 series to be able to get an electric start and that starts to get to be twice the cost….
Totally agree that I did learn a lot on that log. As far as the engine goes, most of the time, it pulls easy and fires up. But sometimes it does pop back and rip the cord out of your hand like any small engine does at times. If this engine ever needs replaced, it will get an electric start one next time. Overall, I totally am happy with the LX50 Super, of course there is things that could be better. And somethings I am going to change. It's kinda like driving a big truck, you adapt to the way it works the best. It cuts as big of log as I want to deal with and for $5000 or so with accessories and blades, I am making nice lumber. Not sure if i am saving money but it is a nice feeling to take your own tree and end up with a nice finished project. Thanks for watching and commenting